New Steed in the Stable - 1977 TS185

[Weldangrind]

Son of Weldangrind and I picked up a new (to us) bike today. It's a '77 TS185, and it's virtually the same as my first bike, a '78 TS100, which I still have.

It's really ugly, but it starts first kick and has valid registration. I promptly bought a license plate and insurance for it right after it was in my trailer. I brought it home, changed the oil, cleaned the plug, stuck a China filter on it and took it for a ride.

The only light that works right now is the headlight, but I can use hand signals. We'll be slowly buying stuff for it, but it is rideable.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/78TS185.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/?action=view&current=78TS185.jpg)

[midlifekrisiz]

ugly and old school ....i like

[Jim]

Right on :)

[MICRider]

Looks good! Did you find it on Craigslist?

[Weldangrind]

Yep. :D CL is my guilty pleasure.

[cheesy]

Nice

[MICRider]

Sure wish Edmontons Craigslist was better... Maybe I'm just not using it right. Are there key searches that you guys do or something? I'm not too bad with Kijiji but all I find on Craigslist are Harleys and sportbikes.

Back on topic, the 185 looks good! Put a removable trunk on it and you have the ultimate urban commuter/trail riding machine. I'm guessing a 185 two smoke has no problems keeping up in traffic?

[Weldangrind]

I don't use the search function at all anymore; I just scan the posts and look for anything under $1000.00. I find all kinds of interesting stuff that way. BTW, the Vancouver CL has hundreds of posts per day, so there's always something to look at.

The 185 has no problem keeping up with traffic, and I do have a rack that will take some re-working. My good friend Jim donated it. :D The intention behind this bike is a commuter for Son of Weldangrind, because I have my eye on another project. Until he gets his "L", I'll be riding the 185.

[FastDoc]

Congratulations on the 185! It looks great! You gotta love those vintage street going two-smokes. :wink:

[Weldangrind]

I'm getting all kinds of sick ideas for it now. :lol:

I'm flirting with the idea of a new set of rings (it smokes bad), along with Boyesen reeds. I'll likely use universal front and rear fenders for it, and perhaps change to black in the process; the stock fenders are both done. The wiring is a mess, but I think I can solve that. I'm wondering if a 6v gel cell is a good idea, vs. a liquid acid battery; not sure of the pros and cons there, but I can get a gel cell for cheap. Neither the speedo or tach work, but there's hope that it's just the cables.

It doesn't idle without the choke, so I've got some carb work to do. This'll be a fun project for Son of Weldangrind and I. :D

[FastDoc]

I can get a gel cell for cheap.

Cheap is good. You've answered your own question there. :wink:

Regarding the rings and the smoking it MAY be crankshaft seals where tranny oil is getting into the combustion chamber. That would also explain some of your running issues.

Check out this article for more detail.

http://www.dansmc.com/vacuum_testing.htm

[katoranger]

I can get a gel cell for cheap.

Cheap is good. You've answered your own question there. :wink:

Regarding the rings and the smoking it MAY be crankshaft seals where tranny oil is getting into the combustion chamber. That would also explain some of your running issues.

Check out this article for more detail.

http://www.dansmc.com/vacuum_testing.htm

I was just trying to relay that to BrianW. I don't know much about 2 strokes or anything really.

[FastDoc]

I'm no expert but I've worked on a few and I've read quite a bit. :wink:

Different animals, that's for sure. As simple as they are they are deceptively complicated in the details.

Brilliant design really. Less weight, roughly twice the power and much cheaper to manufacture than a 4 stroke. :D

A person can rebuild one in 2 hours on the kitchen table for very little money.

The downsides of course are the smoke and the noise and the lousy range due to poor economy. :cry:

There's also the emissions concern for those who care about such things.

Personally if I found a good deal on a KDX I'd jump on it!

[SpudRider]

Nice find, Weld! :)

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

Thanks! Son of Weldangrind can't stop grinning, or doing laps around the yard (while he awaits his MC learners permit).

We were chatting last night about the potential of swapping a bigger engine into the TS185 frame, if the right donor comes along. I have some Suzuki experience, but not enough to know what would swap in without major surgery. We were giggling about using a PE or RM 250. :lol:

[FastDoc]

There's gotta be some forum you can join for people who work on old Suzukis. :P

[katoranger]

http://www.suzukits.com/


That bike reminds my of the kawasaki my Dad had when I was little. It was a 100, but I don't know the model.

[katoranger]

It was one of these.

http://www.bikez.com/motorcycles/kawasaki_100_g4tr_1972.php

[Weldangrind]

http://www.suzukits.com/


That bike reminds my of the kawasaki my Dad had when I was little. It was a 100, but I don't know the model.

Thanks for the link!

[Weldangrind]

Did a little work on the TS185 today, once the XR250S was finished. I started with Castrol Super Clean and a pressure washer, and also took the broken fenders off, along with the seat and side panels. I took the exhaust system off and heated it with a torch to burn 30 years of oil out of it. At my next opportunity, I'll clean out the carb, inspect the clutch and try to make sense of the rats nest of wires.

Here's what the bike is supposed to look like:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/1977_TS185_brochure_900.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=1977_TS185_brochure_900.jpg)

Here's ours the day we brought it home:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/78TS185.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=78TS185.jpg)

When I was draining the tank, I discovered that the tank mount is broken. It's good to have a welder.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06054.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06054.jpg)

This is just some of what I need to sort out:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06055.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06055.jpg)

[deputygene]

Great Find! I had a 73 or 4, TS 185 when I was a teen. I rode the wheels off that thing for years. Had a TS 250 later, but it was heavier than the 185.
I have been thinking about getting another for awhile. There is an 80 DS 185 on ebay right now I have been watching.

[Weldangrind]

I found a TS250 engine on CL, and the mad scientist in me wants it badly. It has just been rebuilt with a new Wiseco piston and Boyesen reed, but I think I'll just focus on this 185 engine for now.

[Weldangrind]

I spotted a good deal on new EBC friction plates on eBay, so I grabbed 'em. I'll report on the installation upon arrival.

[SpudRider]

As always, I eagerly await your updates, Weld! :)

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

Thanks. No noteworthy pics yet, but I did remove the headlight assembly to attack the rat's nest of wiring. It's not too far gone, since most of the electrical accessories work. The front brake lever has been replaced with a MX unit, so the brake switch is missing. I'll be looking for a new one.

I'm also going to get a universal rear fender like the one Doc bought for the Dirt Rat.

I cleaned out the carb last night, and the slow jet was completely plugged. A little carb cleaner and a welding tip cleaner solved that. I just wish I could figure out what the float level should be.

[SpudRider]

Thanks. No noteworthy pics yet, but I did remove the headlight assembly to attack the rat's nest of wiring. It's not too far gone, since most of the electrical accessories work. The front brake lever has been replaced with a MX unit, so the brake switch is missing. I'll be looking for a new one...
You might also wish to consider installing a hydraulic brake switch.

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&webTypeId=88&navTitle=ATV+Parts&webCatId=24&keyword=tusk+hydraulic+brake+switch&prodFamilyId=25925

This switch replaces the banjo bolt in the brake's master cylinder. However, you would also need to increase the length of the wires coming from this switch. ;)

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

Nothing but drums on a '77 TS185. I need to pick up a simple lever with a switch.

[SpudRider]

Nothing but drums on a '77 TS185. I need to pick up a simple lever with a switch.
Oops! :oops: I forgot to look closely at the front wheel. ;)

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

Made some slow progress this weekend. Took the carb off for cleaning, removed the clutch cover in preparation for installing new friction discs and removed the engine.

The carb is unlike any I've worked on. One throttle cable splits into two; one side pulls the throttle open, and the other operates the oil injector. There is another cable (the grey one in the pic) that pulls the throttle closed.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06063.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06063.jpg)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06064.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06064.jpg)

This is the top of the carb, followed by a shot of the slider down and then up. It uses a bellcrank-type mechanism to actuate the slider. It feels very precise, but heavy.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06074.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06074.jpg)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06075.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06075.jpg)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06076.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06076.jpg)

This is the slow jet before and after. No wonder it wouldn't idle.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06072.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06072.jpg)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06077.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06077.jpg)

The clutch cover is typical, but the clutch linkage isn't. I was surprised to see how clean the clutch and interior is. Kind of surprised that the clutch was slipping that badly at high RPM.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06083.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06083.jpg)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06081.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06081.jpg)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06084.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06084.jpg)

It might be that the clutch is fine, and the chain was slipping on the countershaft sprocket. You think?

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06085.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06085.jpg)

I can also see that it was the shifter seal that was leaking on my driveway. I was able to get numbers off of it, so I'll grab a new seal at Precise Bearing. I might as well do the countershaft seal at the same time.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06086.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06086.jpg)

I'm not feeling any lateral or vertical play in the crankshaft, so I think we have a winner. Since I already bought the friction discs, I'm gonna soak 'em and install them, but I really need to order new sprockets and a chain.

[SpudRider]

Yikes! I've never seen a countershaft sprocket so worn! 8O

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

:lol:

That's the first time I pulled the cover so I could see it, and I'm quite shocked. I rode the bike across town to get a spark plug, and if you stay off the throttle, it's fine. I'm gonna check at the local bike shop on Tuesday and see what my cost would be there; I can get a new sprocket set from Bike Bandit for $26.00, but I'd have to pay shipping on top.

[SpudRider]

Obviously, the previous owners didn't care much for drive chain maintenance! :lol:

Spud :)

[MICRider]

I think that sprockets even worse than the one on my CT was! The PO must have kept the chain pretty tight to get it to move.

[Weldangrind]

I scored well. Gnarly parts (www.gnarlyparts.ca) has the front sprocket for $11, the rear for around $27 and a new RK 520 chain for $32. I also ordered a new countershaft seal and shifter seal from Precise Bearing; all of those parts should be in by Friday.

Today I picked up two cheap dual sport tires, a generic rear fender and a 6 volt gel cell battery for cheap. I'm also going to order a replacement speedometer cable on eBay as soon as the seller confirms compatibility.

I soaked the seat latch and steering lock in lube and worked them until they would operate smoothly. I also got the spare key re-cut to properly works those locks (no charge at the locksmith).

Looking forward to more shop time. :D

[SpudRider]

I scored well. Gnarly parts (www.gnarlyparts.ca) has the front sprocket for $11, the rear for around $27 and a new RK 520 chain for $32. I also ordered a new countershaft seal and shifter seal from Precise Bearing; all of those parts should be in by Friday.

Today I picked up two cheap dual sport tires, a generic rear fender and a 6 volt gel cell battery for cheap. I'm also going to order a replacement speedometer cable on eBay as soon as the seller confirms compatibility.

I soaked the seat latch and steering lock in lube and worked them until they would operate smoothly. I also got the spare key re-cut to properly works those locks (no charge at the locksmith).

Looking forward to more shop time. :D
Indeed, you scored well on the sprockets and drive chain! :D You made excellent progress today. Thanks for the update, Weld. :)

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

Not much progress yesterday. I intend to use some small signal lights I have, so I picked up 6v bulbs for those and for the tail light. I also took the tach apart to figure out why the stem is loose, and I think it'll be functional, once I buy a new cable. I also bought some orange paint in anticipation of fixing the dents in the tank and respraying the tank and panels.

Forgot to mention that when I picked up the rear fender, etc I bought a generic pair of aluminum handlebars that will hopefully dampen some vibration. My fillings are loose from riding that bike across town.

Still looking forward to shop time. :D

[SpudRider]

Yes, the 2-stroke engines tend to vibrate a bit, don't they? ;) My KDX220 is my first 2-stroke motorcycle, and I have noted the bike vibrates a lot more than any 4-stroke bike I have ever ridden. :lol: I'm glad I have aluminum handlebars on my bike. :) I'm also considering installing some vibranators.

http://www.vibranator.com/

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

That's a cool idea! I'm too cheap to buy one, but it's cool nonetheless. I figured if the aluminum bars don't help enough, I'll wear my work gloves that are designed for using an impact wrench.

[SpudRider]

That's a cool idea! I'm too cheap to buy one, but it's cool nonetheless. I figured if the aluminum bars don't help enough, I'll wear my work gloves that are designed for using an impact wrench.
Please tell me more about those gloves, Weld. :) Are they thin enough to allow good manipulation of the controls? Are they expensive?

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

I've had two pairs in the past; one pair of Mechanix M-Pact and a pair of Makita gloves. Neither pair was terribly expensive (although free for me, because they were Christmas gifts :D ).

Mechanix M-Pact (http://www.mechanix.com/m-pact-glove)

Makita M-Force II Gloves (http://www.makita.ca/index2.php?event=newaccessorydetailstemp&id=52&catid=10)

[MICRider]

I read somewhere that you can fill the bars with steel shot to reduce vibration as well but I've never tried it! :)

[SpudRider]

I've had two pairs in the past; one pair of Mechanix M-Pact and a pair of Makita gloves. Neither pair was terribly expensive (although free for me, because they were Christmas gifts :D ).

Mechanix M-Pact (http://www.mechanix.com/m-pact-glove)

Makita M-Force II Gloves (http://www.makita.ca/index2.php?event=newaccessorydetailstemp&id=52&catid=10)
Wow! Thanks for the great links, Weld! :D I ride a lot, and my hands get numb, even on a 4-stroke bike, with aluminum handlebars. :( I am going to check out the gloves you mentioned! ;)

Spud :)

[SpudRider]

The Mechanix Wear gloves only cost $26! :)

http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_M-Pact-Glove-Black-Medium-Mechanix-Wear_17500380-P_N3521B_T%7CGRP2086_____

Spud :)

[FastDoc]

I read somewhere that you can fill the bars with steel shot to reduce vibration as well but I've never tried it! :)

+1 on that. I've not done it but know people who have with good results. They used #4 lead shot.

+1 on the Mechanix gloves too. I use them, or a similar style, sometimes as a summer off-roading glove.

Thank God I've never tested them though. :wink:

[Weldangrind]

Impact-style gloves are great for the intended purpose, although I don't use an impact wrench very often. I have, however, worn out two pairs dirt biking; they're terrific.

[Weldangrind]

I moved forward a bit today.

I spent a considerable amount of time on the rat's nest today, and I think I have it sorted. The connector for the rear brake switch was in bad shape and the wires were too brittle, so I cut it back and spliced in a connector that I had on hand. It's not the original type, but it'll do.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06089.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06089.jpg)

I also soldered in a new fuse holder, since the original was broken. It's overkill, but I had it in stock.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06090.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06090.jpg)

I discovered that there is an orange factory wire that is hot when the key is on, and it was routed to where the tail light wires go. I've found and labeled the signal, brake and tail light wires, so this wire is a bit of a mystery. As well, I found two factory connectors in the headlight that don't connect to anything. I can't imagine what those would be for, because everything else is accounted for. Any thoughts?

Also, I can't get the signal flasher to flash unless I'm tapping it with a small hammer. The lights illuminate, but it only clicks and flashes with persuasion. There is no engine in the frame right now, but I expect that the flasher should work on the battery alone. Any comments?

After some closer examination, I found that the spark arrestor had separated from the nozzle, so all I had to do was coax the spark arrestor out of the muffler body. It was gross.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06093.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06093.jpg)

I burned the spark arrestor and muffler body (again), and the muffler actually caught fire! Both items cleaned up nicely.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06094.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06094.jpg)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06097.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06097.jpg)

I also spent some time cleaning the frame, since the engine was out of the way. Much left to do, but it's coming along nicely.

[Weldangrind]

I found a few spare minutes to play with the bike, so I painted the muffler housing, spout and expansion chamber. I didn't see any sense in painting the baffle / spark arrestor, since those parts will be covered with oil soon enough. I also rooted through my junk and found socket head cap screws to fasten the baffle to the spout and the spout to the housing.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06103.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06103.jpg)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06104.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06104.jpg)

The complete muffler and expansion chamber are hanging in the furnace room, hopefully curing. It's a little cold in the shop at night for paint to cure.

I also played with the signal flasher, because it would only flash if I tapped it, despite being connected to two bulbs. I found a simple electromagnet inside, along with an 18ohm resistor. The resistor measures properly, so I suspect it's just a matter of applying additional load to the flasher. The indicator light is burned out, and I suspect it would provide the required load. Any thoughts, anybody?

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06101.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06101.jpg)

[FastDoc]

Great thread Weld, I'm really enjoying following it :D

I've had bike flashers that would only work properly with the engine running. A new flasher at the autoparts store should only be $10 or so though... That's what I did with the XS400 I restored a couple of years ago.

[Weldangrind]

Thanks Doc! I hadn't thought of that; it's been so many years since I had a street bike, it hadn't occurred to me that all might be well with the engine running. I'll put this part of the project off until I get the engine back in.

As you say, a new flasher might be the ticket, but that's only if I can find a 6v flasher for cheap.

[FastDoc]

Thanks Doc! I hadn't thought of that; it's been so many years since I had a street bike, it hadn't occurred to me that all might be well with the engine running. I'll put this part of the project off until I get the engine back in.

As you say, a new flasher might be the ticket, but that's only if I can find a 6v flasher for cheap.

A flasher for an old (pre '64?) VW may be the ticket. About $10.

[2LZ]

Hey W&G! Found you a great parts bike! Kinda far away though.....
http://sacramento.craigslist.org/mcy/2673861095.html

[Weldangrind]

The ad was flagged before I saw it. Bummer.

[Weldangrind]

I found a few more minutes this evening, so I removed the fork tubes and the headlight / front signal supports. I spent a bit of time with the supports at the vise and straightened them; it looks as though the bike has been crashed on both sides, as neither signal pointed forward. They do now.

I re-packed the steering bearings, and I'll go on record and say that I hate loose ball bearings. I'd much rather have tapered rollers. Nevertheless, the bearings are smooth now with no play. I also installed the new aluminum bars I picked up and reconnected the front signals and switches.

I got a new countershaft and shifter shaft seal the other day, so I'll do those next, along with install the new dual sport tires. I also spotted some Valspar sparay paint at the local auto parts store, and they carry Kubota orange, which is remarkably close to '77 TS185 orange. I'll grab some when next in the store. While at another store, I found semi-gloss heat paint, so I'll use that for the engine.

[FastDoc]

Sounds like excellent and very rewarding progress, Weld :D !

For loose ball bearings I use a very thick wheel bearing grease and hope I didn't lose too many :roll: .

You can usually change to tapered caged, but I don't know if they are made for your bike.

On the other hand it's unlikely you'll ever have to address them on this bike ever again.

Good work!

[Weldangrind]

Yeah, I thought about that. I know that they're available for the XL250, but I didn't bother to search for the TS185. Like you said, I just gooped 'em up with thick bearing grease.

[Weldangrind]

Not much progress today. I got my new clutch discs in the mail (intended for a 1980 DS185, but I took a chance), and they're marinating in Rotella T 15W40. I pulled the pins out of the springs and dismantled the clutch; it looks really good. None of the plates are warped, and the basket has no jagged edges.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06114.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06114.jpg)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06115.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06115.jpg)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06113.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06113.jpg)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06118.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06118.jpg)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06119.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06119.jpg)

I gotta find / fabricate a decent spring puller for the reassembly process, but I'm not in a hurry. There's no rush until the gasket kit I ordered arrives. In the meantime, I'm gonna clean up the case and replace the countershaft seal and shifter seal; those were less than $10.00 for the pair from Precise Bearing.

[Weldangrind]

I've been studying the exhaust connection at the cylinder head of my '77 TS185, and I'm wondering if I can improve upon it. The original design has the pipe slip into the head with a collar over it, as a disconnected flange. The pipe is primarily held in place with a spring. I want to know if I can fit everything together, tack weld the pipe to the flange, and then remove it for finish welding.

Any thoughts on that? It would seem to be easier to seal exhaust gases with a gasket under a flange that could be tightly bolted in place, similar to a four stroke. Alternatively, perhaps I could weld a collar to the outside of the pipe for the flange to bear against, accomplishing the same thing.

I'm grateful for any comments.

[Weldangrind]

I took the day off and focused on the 185. I changed the countershaft and shifters seals, cleaned and painted the engine and frame, installed two new tires, installed new wheel bearings, Installed a new rear sprocket, serviced the speedometer drive, cleaned and painted the rear shocks and de-rusted the battery box. I installed the new clutch discs last night.

These are the new seals I bought at Precise Bearing in Abbotsford, BC. They cost me less than $10 for the pair:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06126.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06126.jpg)

Here's my removal method; just drill a small hole and slowly insert a small wood screw into the hole. I then clamp Vise Grips onto the screw and slowly lever it out. This is a shot of the screw awaiting removal:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06129.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06129.jpg)

The lump doesn't look great with a flash, but it looks ok in natural light with the new paint. The conditions were nearly opposite of ideal for painting, but I cheated with a heat gun. it is heat paint, after all.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06133.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06133.jpg)

I was surprised at the condition of the rear brakes; it looks as though they've been recently replaced. I'll just clean 'em up.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06135.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06135.jpg)

This is a trick I learned on a Suzuki forum. If you need to install / remove a strong spring (like for a kickstand), insert a bunch of small washers or small coins between the coils. After enough washers are inserted, the spring length will have grown to the point where it's easy to remove / install the spring. Sorry for the blurry pic:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06139.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06139.jpg)

Like most battery boxes, this one is very rusty. I decided to try the electrolytic de-rusting method. The rust was very deep due to years of acid contact, so the results weren't as immediate as my exhaust pipe experiment. Plus, I tried it with a one amp battery charger today, not a 10 amp type. This is the before shot:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06141.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06141.jpg)

For the unfamiliar, I mixed two tablespoons of Arm and Hammer Washing Soda with two gallons of warm water. I then stuck a piece of steel into the water that I don't care about, and connected the positive battery charger clamp to it. I ground a small area of the battery box clean and clamped the negative clamp to it and dropped it into the water (being careful to not allow the two pieces of steel to touch. This shot is after about one minute in the solution:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06143.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06143.jpg)

This is after about 10 minutes:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06151.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06151.jpg)

I then removed the battery box and noted that most of the rust was gone, and the remaining paint was bubbled. I wiped the remaining paint off and stuck it back in the solution for another 10 minutes. Here it is with the bubbled paint:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06152.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06152.jpg)

Here's what it looked like after the final bath:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06157.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/?action=view&current=DSC06157.jpg)

I dried it thoroughly and set it on the hot water tank for the night. I'll slather it with anti-rust paint next time.

Getting closer to a complete bike. :D

[Jim]

Good progress :)

[FastDoc]

Great post Weld! I continue to learn so much from you! :idea:

I love the penny in the spring trick! I have to install The Dirt Rat 2's kickstand and spring tonight I'll use that tip! :idea:

The electrolytic de-resting technique contines to impress me. :idea:

I know what a job it is to paint a frame and engine! Looks good. I can't wait to see the frame and more pics of the project.

I also love your simple and effective seal removal process. :D

Thannks again, Brother Weld!

[SpudRider]

As always, thank you for posting the excellent photos, and the superb tips! You are making excellent progress, indeed! :D

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

Thanks guys. :D

Doc, the spring trick would require a pocket full of dimes; pennies are defintely too thick. Since you're installing a spring (where I was removing one), you'll be able to alternate sides with the dimes or washers for more stretch.

More pics as progress continues.

[fishman10]

and of course theres always the rope method for those tuff kickstand and exhaust springs in case you don't have a pocketful of change,lol

[Weldangrind]

Please explain, Fish. I'm not familiar with the rope method.

It's funny how we can struggle through the same jobs for years without realizing there's a better way.

[SpudRider]

Please explain, Fish. I'm not familiar with the rope method.

It's funny how we can struggle through the same jobs for years without realizing there's a better way.
When the spring is stretched, thread a long shoelace/thin rope through the coils. The rope should be long enough so you can form a loop, or twist the rope several times around you gloved hand. Then pull on the rope to stretch the spring. ;)

However, I just bought an exhaust spring tool from Rocky Mountain ATV/MC. I love Tusk tools! :D

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&webTypeId=51&navTitle=Exhaust&webCatId=18&keyword=spring+tool&prodFamilyId=3028

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/t/tus_04_exh_spr_too.jpg

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

Thanks Spud. :D

There's a Tusk tool just like that at Gnarly Parts for around the same price, and I'm gonna grab it next time I'm in the area.

[SpudRider]

Thanks Spud. :D

There's a Tusk tool just like that at Gnarly Parts for around the same price, and I'm gonna grab it next time I'm in the area.
I checked the Gnarly Parts website, but I couldn't find their location. :?

http://gnarlyparts.ca/pages.php?currency=USD&pID=5&osCsid=860148350ebfbea7e266172cbaf690a3

I guess they are located near Vancouver, B.C.? :?:

Spud :)

[fishman10]

Well I never thread it thru the coils ,,just the hooked end O want to pull and then even the endes up and wrap round my hand and it works great ,,,I think spud may have told me bout this one ,,,I like parachute cord

[Weldangrind]

Thanks Spud. :D

There's a Tusk tool just like that at Gnarly Parts for around the same price, and I'm gonna grab it next time I'm in the area.
I checked the Gnarly Parts website, but I couldn't find their location. :?

http://gnarlyparts.ca/pages.php?currency=USD&pID=5&osCsid=860148350ebfbea7e266172cbaf690a3

I guess they are located near Vancouver, B.C.? :?:

Spud :)

Yes, they're in the area, but specifically in Chilliwack, BC, which is one town to the East from me. They do their best to offer the same pricing that I'd find on Rocky Mountain ATV, but without the shipping (if I walk in). I support their store anytime that I can. That's the very store that I bought the Tusk bead buddy and tire irons from.

Gnarly Parts is active on the bcdualsport.com forum, and they host a dual sport ride and barbecue every summer. Son of Weldangrind and I are hoping to get in on that with the junk we're fixing up right now.

[Weldangrind]

Well I never thread it thru the coils ,,just the hooked end O want to pull and then even the endes up and wrap round my hand and it works great ,,,I think spud may have told me bout this one ,,,I like parachute cord

Thanks Fish. :D

[FastDoc]

I just used the washer trick to re-install The Dirt Rat 2's kickstand spring and it was great! Thanks guys! :P

[SpudRider]

Well I never thread it thru the coils ,,just the hooked end O want to pull and then even the endes up and wrap round my hand and it works great ,,,I think spud may have told me bout this one ,,,I like parachute cord
If the cord is small enough, you can thread it through one of the last coils above the spring hook. Then, when you pull the spring hook over the stud, the rope is not caught under the spring. ;)

Using the "coin trick," "rope trick," and the Tusk Spring Puller, one should be able to defeat any spring installation/removal. :)

Spud :)

[SpudRider]

Yes, they're in the area, but specifically in Chilliwack, BC, which is one town to the East from me. They do their best to offer the same pricing that I'd find on Rocky Mountain ATV, but without the shipping (if I walk in). I support their store anytime that I can. That's the very store that I bought the Tusk bead buddy and tire irons from.

Gnarly Parts is active on the bcdualsport.com forum, and they host a dual sport ride and barbecue every summer. Son of Weldangrind and I are hoping to get in on that with the junk we're fixing up right now.
I think it's great you support the local business, Weld. I'm glad to hear Gnarly Parts is willing to match prices! :)

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

I made a little more progress the other night; got the front wheel and engine installed. The wheels now spin very freely with no side wobble, thanks to the new bearings. Totally worth it. The tires are just China stuff that I got cheap, and I'm guessing they'll wear like concrete. I'll be cautious on wet pavement 'til I feel 'em out. I also removed the injector pump and cleaned it (without dismantling it); I removed the banjo bolts and hit 'em with brake cleaner and some compressed air. I also blew some air through the inlet and out the bleed hole.

It was just a bare frame not that long ago, but it's starting to take shape. Here's the new front tire:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/DSC06159.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/?action=view&current=DSC06159.jpg)

And the rear:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/DSC06160.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/?action=view&current=DSC06160.jpg)

The shocks don't look great, even after painting, so I'll probably take 'em apart again over the winter and do a better job. If I can't remove the rust from the chrome, I'll just paint the coils. Here's the engine installed:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/DSC06161.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/?action=view&current=DSC06161.jpg)

I have Monday off again, so that'll likely be my next opportunity. I wanna go riding!

[SpudRider]

Did you mount Cheng Shin C755 tires, Weld?

Spud :)

[FastDoc]

Great progress Weld! You are really going to enjoy riding that bike!

Can you get collector plates for it where you live?

I hope you weather's good. been a little 'iffy' here lately... :cry:

[MICRider]

I think that bike will be a lot of fun to bomb around on when you get it all finished 8). You guys are lucky to be still able to ride there, winter descended upon us with a vengeance this week... No more riding for me until spring!

[FastDoc]

%$#@ing snow here today. Not sticking and forcast to end in a couple hours but needless to say no riding for FastDoc today. I hate winter.

[Weldangrind]

Did you mount Cheng Shin C755 tires, Weld?

Spud :)

No, the brand name is SBL. Never heard of it. I got them for a good-guy price at Saga, so I'm gonna give 'em a try.

The tubes also said SBL, and I didn't use them. They tubes were incredibly hard, and my tire buddy says that's because they have little natural rubber and a lot of synthetic rubber. The tires were very difficult to mount, and I expect that I'll just cut 'em off when the time comes.

[Weldangrind]

Great progress Weld! You are really going to enjoy riding that bike!

Can you get collector plates for it where you live?

I hope you weather's good. been a little 'iffy' here lately... :cry:

I can get collector plates (which would be a good value), but then I'd have to find a factory rear fender, which is like hen's teeth. As well, Son of Weldangrind would not be able to ride it to school or work, and that would suck. Regular insurance isn't terrible, given the small dispalcement.

We had some snow the other day, but I doubt that we'll see much more. I don't care if it's cold, as long as it's above 0 C / 32 F. I can still bundle up and ride.

On that note, has anybody tried a "snoopy"? It's like what we call a Balaclava, which is a head cover that usually only leaves holes for the eyes and mouth. What I'm looking for is the type of head cover that football players and firefighters wear, which has a hole to expose the entire face. I'd like to wear one under my MX helmet when it's cold, but I don't know where to find one. BTW, it's firefighters that call them a "snoopy", but they fit like a giant sock over the head.

[Weldangrind]

I think that bike will be a lot of fun to bomb around on when you get it all finished 8). You guys are lucky to be still able to ride there, winter descended upon us with a vengeance this week... No more riding for me until spring!

The Coquihalla highway is a disaster right now, but we're ok. It doesn't get that cold here (usually not colder than -10 C), but it's damp. It has a way of going right to your bones. You learn to dress in a lot of layers if you're going to ride.

[MICRider]

Great progress Weld! You are really going to enjoy riding that bike!

Can you get collector plates for it where you live?

I hope you weather's good. been a little 'iffy' here lately... :cry:

I can get collector plates (which would be a good value), but then I'd have to find a factory rear fender, which is like hen's teeth. As well, Son of Weldangrind would not be able to ride it to school or work, and that would suck. Regular insurance isn't terrible, given the small dispalcement.

We had some snow the other day, but I doubt that we'll see much more. I don't care if it's cold, as long as it's above 0 C / 32 F. I can still bundle up and ride.

On that note, has anybody tried a "snoopy"? It's like what we call a Balaclava, which is a head cover that usually only leaves holes for the eyes and mouth. What I'm looking for is the type of head cover that football players and firefighters wear, which has a hole to expose the entire face. I'd like to wear one under my MX helmet when it's cold, but I don't know where to find one. BTW, it's firefighters that call them a "snoopy", but they fit like a giant sock over the head.

I know what your talking about, we have them at work... Ours are made of a Nomex or fire resistant material though, not sure where they get them, ours are the white ones like race car drivers wear. Work World has this model, though it covers your nose and directs your breath downward, http://www2.marks.com/ProductDetails.asp?categoryID=66&productID=737
Aklands has the one hole models at varying prices, https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/AGIPortalWeb/agi/_/N-/No-12/Ntt-belaclava?Ntk=All&Ntx=mode%2Bmatchallpartial&Nty=1

I use the belaclava at work a lot in the winter, I work outside all winter and with the belaclava and a hard hat liner combined I have worked in temps to -40 Celsius. Construction shuts down at -25 but unfortunately I'm maintenance and they throw us out in all temps :wink:

[FastDoc]

Just don't wear your 'Snoopy' into the bank when you go to check your balance :wink: .

They sell items like that at our local ranch and farm supply stores. If you can't find one locally let me know I can pick up a couple for you and drop them in the mail.

[MICRider]

I was going to mention too that I bought a neck warmer on ebay last Spring, it's basically just a polar fleece tube (doubled though so it's fairly rigid) that you can tuck into your jacket and it comes up to the bottom of your helmet. I was finding on my morning commutes (near zero) that it was my exposed neck that was getting the coldest. Unfortunately my jacket collar was too tight to use it much and I ended up just getting a Buff and using that. Made a big difference and I was using it right up until I parked the bike.

[Weldangrind]

Thanks guys!

I'll be sure to check our local Del's Farm Supply, Acklands and Mark's Work Wearhouse. I hadn't thought of any of those, and I'll update when I find one. The one from Mark's that directs your breath downward is an excellent idea.

[Weldangrind]

It's new parts day! :D The gasket kit and speedometer cable I ordered from Thailand on eBay arrived, and the dust seal came into the local Suzuki dealer.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06174.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06175.jpg

I only had time to install the dust seal today, but i'm looking forward to using the other new parts soon. Here's the nasty old seal, followed by the new one:

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06176.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06177.jpg

If I was smart, I would've ordered two. Oh well. I can always drop in and lay down another $11.00. Here are some shots from the time I spent on the tach yesterday. The stem is loose, and I figure that it mounts to two of the four tapped holes on the mounting plate with some sort of bracket. Not sure. Only two of the four holes line up with holes in the tach housing. I ground some reliefs in a washer to slip over the stem and fastened the whole deal, but the needle is now too close to the glass. Getting stumped.


http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06170.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06171.jpg

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/TS185/DSC06173.jpg

Any thoughts?

[MICRider]

Would it be possible to fabricate a shim of some sort to slide between the flat part of the tach housing (the part your clamping down with the relieved washer) and the bracket? That way you could get the needle closer to the face and still have it securely clamped with the washer. Just a thought, not sure if it's plausible :)

Kind of difficult to describe, this is what I was referring to:
http://i762.photobucket.com/albums/xx261/MICRider/TS185tach.jpg

[Weldangrind]

Thanks for the editing, Stew. :D That makes perfect sense.

If I put a shim there, it would project the needle even closer to the glass. The washer I used has the tach securely mounted, but the needle is too high, so I think I need to fabricate a spacer for the outside of the housing that will allow the stem to protrude further outboard.

In case that makes no sense, I'll take a pic when it's done.

[MICRider]

Lol, okay... I might have been looking at the problem from the wrong side :).

[Weldangrind]

It's difficult to visualize, to be sure. I've had trouble wrapping my head around the problem, let alone the solution.

[Weldangrind]

Well, I got the bike together enough to go for a victory ride on the weekend. It's not done to my liking, but the weather prevents me from finishing it right now. To paraphrase my good friend Spud, I don't have the time to do it right, but I'll find the time to do it twice.

I want to sand down the tank and fill the dents, and I want to paint the tank and side panel. While I could probably work with the fiberglass and bondo in the cold (due to catalystic reactions), there's no way I could paint. I'm also planning on removing the seat cover, de-rusting the pan and stitching it together with new metal. I haven't figure out the tach yet, but I don't need idiot light to ride the bike. I want to buy some replacement signal lights, but that'll have to wait until after Christmas.

I temporarily mounted some scooter signals and a scooter taillight on the bike, and I welded the taillight / plate mount to the rear grab bar. The mount was originally bolted to the grab bar, but the tabs were broken. I also welded the broken tank mount back onto the frame.

The hold down clips for the headlight are long gone, so I cleaned the inside of the headlight bezel and applied a bead of clear RTV as an adhesive. The headlight sits where it should now.

The rats nest of wiring was a total pain. I managed to bundle and tie the wires behind the headlight, and I learned how to route the throttle, clutch and front brake cables. I also lubed 'em. The return throttle cable is broken, so I removed it. The throttle works just fine with only a pull cable, since the return spring is very strong. I soaked the seat lock and steering lock in Gibbs penetrant, and they work reasonably well now; at least I can lock the steering when the bike is unattended.

I cut and installed the new chain, and it's very smooth. This one is a DID, and it was a few bucks more than an RK. Time will tell if the cost difference is worth it.

I installed a new gasket behind the injector pump, then I primed it with new synthetic oil. Hard to tell if it smokes, because it was quite cold out when I fired it. I'm sure it won't smoke as bad as it did.

The signal flasher still doesn't work, even with the engine running. I'm going to take the flasher apart again and see if I can install a stiffer return spring. If not, I'll find a new 6v flasher. The carb still isn't quite right, and I suspect that it's too lean. I'm gonna try playing with the air screw as a first step. The clutch doesn't immediately engage, and that was a symptom before I took the bike apart. I've since installed new clutch discs and new sprcokets, so I know the remaining problem is the linkage. I can push it back by hand, but it won't quite go on its own. Perhaps a new cable is in order.

Despite all of that, it sure was satisfying to ride it. :D

[FastDoc]

Glad you've got it mostly sorted! Sounds like a lot of work but time well spent. I know how that goes, believe me!

Do you have a garage? Have you considered a diesel (or kerosene or heating oil or Jet A. It will run on anything but gasoline) powered heater like I have on my shop?

[Weldangrind]

I have an enclosed oil filled heater, but my shop needs a little more insulation. I don't want to use anything that requires actual combustion, because my shop is attached, and it's right below my daughter's bedroom. I'm very careful about fumes.

[FastDoc]

Wise.

I think about that with my diesel heater, but it never triggers the CO monitor, and I usually have some venting and use it sparingly.

[SpudRider]

Congratulations, Brother Weld! I'm glad you got to take the bike for a test ride. :D I know what you mean about the cold weather. :( I finished an engine top end rebuild of my XR650L in sub-freezing weather, and it was not fun. :roll: Did I mention I hate winter? :evil:

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

I was raised in Stew's neck of the woods, so I'm no stranger to cold weather. In fact, where I live now is nothing compared to Northern Alberta. I don't mind dressing appropriately and working on the bike, but painting and so on is out.

One thing I've learned is to wear nitrile gloves in the cold; they act like a wetsuit. If I'm working outside, I wear nitrile gloves under my winter gloves. You do what you need to move forward in the frozen tundra. :lol:

[FastDoc]

This time of year I have to keep reminding myself of the Word:

Psalm 118:24 This is the day which the LORD has made; Let us rejoice and be glad in it.

[SpudRider]

Thanks for the tip regarding the nitrile gloves, Weld. :) I bet the nitrile gloves would help keep one's hands warm under riding gloves as well. ;)

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

This time of year I have to keep reminding myself of the Word:

Psalm 118:24 This is the day which the LORD has made; Let us rejoice and be glad in it.

Indeed. I might not like the weather at a given moment, but I need to bear in mind that there's a reason for it. All I can do is make the best of it.

[Weldangrind]

Thanks for the tip regarding the nitrile gloves, Weld. :) I bet the nitrile gloves would help keep one's hands warm under riding gloves as well. ;)

Spud :)

That has been my very experience. For best results, I put the nitrile gloves on about 10 minutes before I slip my riding gloves on and go outside. That trick doesn't work very well if your hands are already cold.

[FastDoc]

My 'trick' is that you have to start warm to stay warm. Keep your riding clothes and helmet inside the house not the garage. Whenever I stop I remove my gloves and place them somewhere on the engine but off the exhaust.

Sometimes I'll work out or just exercise before leaving to get some body heat up. Not enough to sweat just get warm.

In very cold weather I'll sit for 5 minutes or so, usually less, in front of my diesel heater in the garage with my coats open to soak up the heat. Again, stop short of sweating but get nice and warm.

If I do this, and use the electric gloves or vest, I am warm enough on the dirt bike down to temps in the teens (F) for an hour or two. Enough for a good ride.

Longer if it's sunny (wear black), maybe less if its foggy or moist.

On the streetbike I can ride indefinetly on the Gold Wing due to its heaters and wind protection. Less so on the KLX on the road due to no heaters or windshield.

[FastDoc]

For The Dirt Rat 2 and the BSA which do not have electrical systems amenable to the use of electric clothing I'm considering rigging up a spare medium size sealed and nonvented motorcycle battery to operate the clothes.

I'll tie it to the back of the seat or rig a fannypack somehow and just make it a total loss system and recharge it at the end of the ride. With about 50 watts total draw I suppose it will provide heat for several hours.

I have a new battery for a Sportster I don't have any need for that was given to me.

[katoranger]

Doc, UPC batteries may work well for your plan. I use them in the power wheels.

They are sealed and cheap.

[MICRider]

Thanks for the tip regarding the nitrile gloves, Weld. :) I bet the nitrile gloves would help keep one's hands warm under riding gloves as well. ;)

Spud :)

That has been my very experience. For best results, I put the nitrile gloves on about 10 minutes before I slip my riding gloves on and go outside. That trick doesn't work very well if your hands are already cold.

Thanks for the tip Weld, I'm going to have to try that! Might even work well at work (and they have cases of nitrile gloves there!)

[Weldangrind]

I found fleece balaclavas at Princess for around $6.00 each, so I bought one for me and one for Son of Weldangrind. I tried mine today, and it was great at around 5 degrees Celcius. Canadian Tire also has fleece balaclavas for a little more, but they have a much longer neck and a drawstring (like a hoody).

I went for another ride today, and I'm experiencing some carb trouble. It will idle ok once warmed up, but anything under 1/2 throttle sputters badly. It really wakes up and screams after 1/2 throttle, which tells me that the jet needle is uncovering the jet a more appropriate amount (IMHO). I'm using an open element filter, so I closed the air screw about 1/2 turn to compensate.

Looking for guidance here, because most of my tuning experience has been with four strokes. Would you move the jet needle clip down one groove to see if it needs more fuel, or would you mess with float height? I believe that float height is more critical in two strokes, but I'm not sure. I definitely don't want to make more than one change at a time, so that I can properly quantify the difference.

[Weldangrind]

I spent a little time on the TS185 today to begin preparing it for sale. I found a cheap six volt flasher at Bike Bandit, and I'm pleased to report that the signals actually blink now, even with only one bulb. :D

I soldered some terminals onto a diode to replace the factory rectifier, and I soldered a new inline fuse holder in the positive wire. These are the outstanding tasks before I list it:

- Replace the exisiting tail light with a universal round light. I want to keep the cool oval light for another project.
- Remove the aluminum bars for use on Son of Weldangrind's Supermoto, and install some steel China bars I have.
- Fill the dents in the tank and paint it.
- Build a battery box to replace the one that now resides in the TS250.
- Paint the new front fender I bought from Motorcycle Superstore and install it.
- Install the new generic rear fender I have.

It's a long list, but each item won't take too long. I'm looking forward to making a few bucks on this one.

[SpudRider]

I hope you turn a nice profit on this bike, Weld. Thanks for posting the update! :)

Spud :)

[FastDoc]

You'll make a very good profit. I see these bikes quite a bit on CL here for the $750-$1,000 range.

IIRC you got this bike for free or nearly free?

[Weldangrind]

I don't remember exactly, but it was around $300.00, IIRC. I wouldn't normally pay that much for a major project, but it had a title. That's worth something to me. BTW, I regularly see similar price amounts on CL. My expectations are reasonable; I'm hoping for around $700.00.

[FastDoc]

The KLR is the next project I assume?

[katoranger]

In need to get that sprocket up there.

[Weldangrind]

No real rush. It can wait until you get to Kansas.

[katoranger]

Going to the post office today. I need to do it now so it doesn't get lost in mess of stuff.

[pete]

Personally if I found a good deal on a KDX I'd jump on it!


Don't do it......... They bite... :cry:
I had a KDX200..
rode it 3 times....
1st time I twisted my ankle...
2nd time was a good ride...
3rd time broke my arm..bones sticking
out... a steel plate 6 months before I
could ride again...

[katoranger]

No real rush. It can wait until you get to Kansas.

Sprocket sent today. Now we need a build thread started on the KLR.

[Weldangrind]

No real rush. It can wait until you get to Kansas.

Sprocket sent today. Now we need a build thread started on the KLR.

Awesome! Thanks! :D I will indeed start a thread, as soon as we begin. We need to finish the slave cylinder on Son of Weldangrind's Ranger first.

[MICRider]

No real rush. It can wait until you get to Kansas.

Sprocket sent today. Now we need a build thread started on the KLR.

Love the KLR250's! Passed one up local on Kijiji (it didn't run) for $500 and I've been kicking myself ever since! To top it off, it was a Barbie!! Doh!

Looking forward to the build and lots of pics! :D

[FastDoc]

Personally if I found a good deal on a KDX I'd jump on it!


Don't do it......... They bite... :cry:
I had a KDX200..
rode it 3 times....
1st time I twisted my ankle...
2nd time was a good ride...
3rd time broke my arm..bones sticking
out... a steel plate 6 months before I
could ride again...

OMG!

They are mild by two stroke standards, but still two strokes with a powerband, albeit blunted, to go along with it.

I had a bike that liked to break people's bones too, but alas, it was pilot error in both cases, not the bike. :wink:

[Weldangrind]

Yeah, it's off-road trikes that actually try to kill the rider.

[MICRider]

Yeah, it's off-road trikes that actually try to kill the rider.

Lol, I loved mine! Rode the wheels right off the old girl :D

[gloud]

I raced 3 wheelers. Did real well too. (MX and TT) 82 ATC250r Then I got reassigned to Germany and started racing a Maico 490 now that bike tried to kill ya. (mostly just when you tried to kick start it. LOL )

Back on topic what year KLR? Okay so really back on- For the paint on the fender you using one of the plastic paints? (fusion etc) The Krylon stuff held up well on my DT.

[Weldangrind]

That was my plan, but then I held the orange supermoto fender up to the TS185 (which is orange), and I love it. I might buy another supermoto fender (undrilled this time) and just go with that.

[SpudRider]

The orange, Polisport Universal Supermoto Fender is really very nice. ;) I bought two more, undrilled fenders for my Zong, since they were on sale for $5.99. :D

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

To revive a very old thread, I sold the TS185 on the weekend. A nice young man bought it as his first street bike, and he just completed a MSF course. He had a scooter previously, so he has some road experience already.

He is quite happy with the bike so far, and I'm pleased that it went to a good home. :D

[SpudRider]

Thanks for the nice update, Weld. :)

[Weldangrind]

You're welcome. I did quite a bit of work to the TS in preparation for the new owner, because he has no motorcycle maintenance and repair experience.

I discovered that the airbox was actually for a TS125, which explains why it was such a poor fit. I bought a TS185 airbox on eBay, and a new air boot from Bike Bandit. I also swapped out the forks for a pair I scored on eBay, since mine were a little bent and the finish was wasted.

He intends to slowly work on the bike and repair the seat and tank. I'll follow his progress and take pics when I have the opportunity.

[FastDoc]

Great outcome!