Gio X31 build-up thread

[goofyexponent]

Ok, for those of you who have followed my few posts, You know what I am all about. Do it once, do it right and enjoy a cold one instead of doing the job twice!

I bought my Gio x31, never had much of a problem with it.

Right out of the box it got a GOOD carb cleaning and new fuel lines with a good filter.

Then it got lights and a switch.

It just got new sprocket bolts and a good thourough carb cleaning and suspension lubing.

This winter I am going ALL out!!

I am stripping the bike down to the bare frame and it is being sandblasted and powercoated with a nice baby blue glossy finish.

I just ordered an 18 tooth front drive sprocket...that will increase the top speed a tad. I am going to TRY and get my hands on a higher compression piston....maybe 10 - 11:1 to up the ante a little with the name brands lol.

The front tire on the bike is just like new, but I am not so crazy about the drive tire....I am going to replace it with a Kenda Millville....Might do both to say it's done.

I already got my red plastics ordered, and I am going to drop them off to my buddy who is going to have his dad's sign shop sticker them up to look EXACELY like the older CR honda's graphics.

Once the frame is done, the bike is being assembeled with ALL hardened stainless fasteners.....and about a gallon of blue loctite lol.

Any opinions or ideas will be welcomed on this. I am always looking for ways to improve things....some say it's why I have no fingernails and permanent grease stains on my hands.

I shouldn't have ANY problem doing this ability wise, but time will be a factor. I am also building a de-compressed, hot pumped, BIG single turboed, intercooled 7.3 mechanically indriectly injected diesel....not a powerstroke, but one of the old non turbo International diesel engines that used to come in the Ford pickups. I am shooting for 400 flywheel horsepower in her and I am dropping that into a 1994 F350 crew cab long box that I am converting from gas, automatic 2wd to a diesel, standard 4x4 with all rebuild parts..

..I don't know why I do these kinds of things to myself lol.

[FastDoc]

I really look forward to following your progress.

BTW, I really love Halifax. I've done a lot of riding up there, I had a girlfriend from there also :wink: . Beautiful city, and a beautiful Province. Great riding. :D

[Weldangrind]

Sounds like you've been hitting the Newfie Screech. Excellent. :D

Beware that stainless fasteners are only about grade 2 in regular SAE bolt speak. I totally agree with stainless stuff for non-tensile loads, but you might need to choose grade 5 or 8 for some stuff, like motor mounts. Whether stainless or not, I use socket head cap screws wherever I can.

Lets talk torque. How much will the International make? I think that the 7.3 was the pre-'04 motor, IIRC. Do you have a donor diesel truck that will give up the trans, etc? What turbo will you use? Factory wastegate or adjustable? I'm gonna geek out over both of these projects, and I hope you start a new thread for the truck.

[goofyexponent]

WEll, the 7.3 I have came into play in 1988. Previous to that it was a 6.9 and it came into the picture in 1983. The 6.9 and the 7.3 are virtually the same engine, just the bore on a 6.9 is 4" even and the bore on a 7.3 is 4.11". Both have the same 4.1" stroke and share EVERY other part besides the pistons and head bolts.

These engine went off the market in 1994.5 when international decided to release the electronic, direct injected powerstroke which had 3 generations from 1994.5 through to 2003 when it was dropped in favor of the poison 6.0 powerstroke....that engine was pure junk.

But back to my IDI engine. Its 100% mechanical. I can jump start it with litterally just a 14 gauge wire off a battery and it will run no problem.....try THAT with a powerstroke! LOL

I am guessing that my torque will be around the 700 - 750 ft. lbs mark. Factory my engine would have only made 190 horses and 370 ft. lbs. of torque.

I have an ATS 093 wastegated turbo setup currently. I can run it to about 25 PSI but anymore than tha t and it will start to choke itself out for power.

She is having a set of pistons made specially with the wrist pin 30 thousandths higher on the piston to lower the compression. As it is indirect injection, there is a pre-combustion chamber in the head. I am porting them puppies WIDE open and doing a little port work on the heads intane and exhaust runners. She is getting an aggressive cam, ARP head studs to hold the heads on and an intercooler out of a freightliner M2-106. Along with a hot "Moose" pump and a brand new set of pressure matched BB injectors.....stage 1 sticks from DPS.

I got the truck I am driving now which has a PILE of work done to it. It's not performance work, but ruggedness work. She has had a 5 speed ZF s5-47 transmission swap to replace the E4OD automatic, dana 60 front axle swap and both driveshafts built from scratch to make up for the difference in length between teh tranny and axle swaps.

When the time comes, I am parking both trucks side by side and goin to town. The blue F250 I got is coming apart and all the parts I need are going on the red F350.

F350 pics

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150409193315014.631400.503330013&type=1&l=ea3edc27d8

F250 pics

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.113325675013.203222.503330013&type=1&l=b835ede37d

The F250 ati't much to look at, but it regularly hands me 22 - 25 MPG's and while in 4 wheel drive, there ain't much that can stand in her way!

[Weldangrind]

Oh man, I'm beggin' you to start a new thread! I especially like the photo with all the concrete pilings in the box; from the thumbnail pic, I though those were wine corks! :lol:

I had NO IDEA that ZF made transmissions for applications like that. I thought they were all about sports cars. It makes sense though, since the Germans are big into diesel stuff, so ZF has probably been making truck transmissions for a long time.

I'm not as familiar with diesel speak as I am gas, so here goes: instead of custom pistons, could you have 0.030" flycut from the stock-style piston? Would that weaken the piston significantly or perhaps get the ring lands too close to the top?

My Dad has a 2003 Powerstroke, and it continues to live. He's a complete hillbilly (which really begins to explain me), and he punishes his truck in Alberta. I'm gonna guess that he has in excess of 400000km on it, and it still makes impressive power. I've read several horror stories about the 6.0, yet his still makes smoke. I agree that they're hard-starting, but his always does. I guess there are always exceptions to the rule, but I'd still take the IH. 8)

[FastDoc]

Im only familiar with ZF transmissions on BMW's and Corvettes. I don't know if the current Corvettes use ZF manual transmissions but my 1996 C4 does. Very strong transmission, but with straight cut, non-helical gears, not very quiet. Kinda like a truck tranny. :wink:

[goofyexponent]

I certainly can start a new thread once parts and pieces arrive. The reason why I am going with the new pistons is due to two of my pistons having stress fractures in the top. I am going to have the new ones ceramic coated as well, help with the heat distribution and durability.

The motor in that blue F250 has 524 000 kilometers on her. NOT ONCE has a head, valve pan cover or any major been off her. It's untouched and it runs as good as the day it was bought. burns 1/2 a quart of oil between oil change intervals of 5000 kilometers. $80 will take me right around 450 - 500 kilometers of mixed city and highway driving. I absolutely LOVE this truck. She ain't a show truck, but it's 8000 pounds of Canadian Muscle I will NEVER give up. That's right, not an american truck...she was built in Ontario back in 1992 as a 1993 model!

[goofyexponent]

Ok, the Red body kit arrived yesterday along with the 18 tooth front drive sprocket. But due to my good nature and willingness to help friends out, I wasn't able to put them on the bike until today. I wound up making a 500 kilometer trek across Nova Scotia, right after work yesterday with the F250 and a car trailer to retrieve a full size loncoln continental.....THAT was fun!

Anywho, I stuck the sprocket on the bike today and WOW! What a difference. I think it will be no good in the tight trails anymore, but I figgure it will do 70 MPH now...without too much trouble power wise.

This is how I did the math. http://www.gearingcommander.com/

Top speed on a stock 15 tooth front sprocket is a mere 58 MPH....nothing to laugh at, but I will STOMP ANY stock gio x31, 35 or 37 in a drag race now. First isn't as deep as I'd like, but it's not bad....closer to second dear on a stock bike but not as tall.

The thing FLIES now. I can't wait to tear into the engine with a big bore kit (possibility) or just a high compression piston (of which I am having a HECK of a hard time locating)

Cna anyone point me to the right direction of a big bore kit/high compression piston for a 2011 Gio x31...overhead cam engine.

I found gasket kits, but I need the actual hardware to fit her.

[Weldangrind]

I'm kinda surprised that you have room for an 18 tooth sprocket. Are you running without the cover? Not sure about where to find big bore stuff, but I'd be looking to Honda aftermarket bits. Do you know what the bore is now? I'll bet you can find a Wiseco that would meet your needs. If it helps, I can always measure an old XR200R piston, to help you determine wrist pin diameter, ring land height, skirt height, etc. I presume that your engine is a two-valve OHC, not four.

What year was the Continental?

[goofyexponent]

When I first stuck the 18 tooth sprocket in there and held the cover up by hanbd I heard metal on metal....GREAT!

But after I pulled the cover back off I seen a little dirt in there...I cleaned it out with a wire brush and it went away. Provided I keep the chain adjusted JUST right it JUST clears. 17 tooth would be a much better fit though.

I am not 100% certain on the bore size. I have read places that it is 65.5MM, others claim it to be 69MM and a few other sites range it anywheres in between. I can find ALL kinds of parts for smaller engines, but hardly any kits for the 250 engines.

I am not 100% on it, but I think the car was a 1996. She was a big old boat that's for sure! I had to haul it up highway 103 through the hilly area along the east coast, then down the 107 to the end of that....what a long haul!

[Weldangrind]

There's no soul in a '96. I would have left it for dead. :lol: The '71 Mark III had style.

There is no way to be sure about bore size until you tear into it. The stamping on the left side (near the gearshift) is an indicator, but it could be wrong. Since you have the gaskets, you might choose to pull the piston and see what aftermarket Honda solutions you can find. Again, I bet there's a Wiseco out there with the compression you're after.

[FastDoc]

There's no soul in a '96. I would have left it for dead. The '71 Mark III had style.

+1

:?

[goofyexponent]

Well, I had the bike up for sale/trade on Kijiji due to me needing another vehicle.

The BS replies I got from IDIOTS out there was unreal. Some people email and offer me $200, $500....some people offer me a beat to death not running car, truck or video game consoles. I never replied to any of them.

Starting this weekend, the teardown begins. I am stripping the ENTIRE bike down, putting the parts in bags and going ahead with the build.

Frame being sprayed with a QUALITY enamel base clear.

I couldn't find a big bore kit, but I am in the process of confirming a high compression piston. A little off the head and it will MAKE SURE I am in the 11 - 11.5 to 1 range.

I will post pics of the ENTIRE build up from first bolt removed, to last bolt installed.

Wish me luck!

[Weldangrind]

Sorry to hear about the goofballs who responded to your ad. That said, I'm very interested to see how this build goes. I love polishing these turds into something fun and useful.

[goofyexponent]

Well, I got up this morning and headed straight to the garage.

The engine is OUT of the bike, and the top end is completely off it. I couldn't see any timimg marks on the case, so I made one when I had everything lined up. Small notch to judge by. The timing mark has to be in a straight line with the cam, with the timing mark on the cam to the left of the bolts at 90* to TDC.

What I want to do is install a high compression piston, port and polish the intake and exhaust runners in the head, check the deck and head for trueness and install with a new set of gaskets. Performance CDI, coil and stator to make sure I am getting optimum spark.

This engine is going to RUN when I am done.

I need to measure the piston and wrist pin and go on the hunt for a piston. Any help here would be GREATLY appriciated as I do not know of any reputable shops online to get performance parts from.

Pics in my FB album, feel free to add me on FB if you want.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150783884090014.737804.503330013&type=1&l=ccc8030b71

[Weldangrind]

I think that Wiseco makes among the best aftermarket pistons. Once you have measurements, I'll be happy to compare them with a few pistons I have around here.

[goofyexponent]

Thanks Weld...I am going to the shop tomorrow to get my calipers and my precision measuring tools.

I know we are at a 65mm bore.

[goofyexponent]

Ok Mr Weld!

I got those measurements:

I used a mastercraft digital caliper to give me my readouts.

Piston bore size : 64.84MM (65MM bore)

Top of piston to bottom of skirt : 42.58MM (42.5m

Wrist Pin : 14.97MM (15MM)

Top of piston to top of Wrist pin : 14.64MM

Top of piston to center of wrist pin : 22.12MM

I think I gathered up 0.072" clearance at TDC from the piston top to the edge of the cylinder head where the piston would first contact if it centered too high.

Can I plain 0.035" off my culinder's deck to gain a little on my CR?

[Weldangrind]

I'm measuring an old XR200 piston with a Performance Tool digital caliper. $5.00 at a garage sale, and worth every penny. :lol:

The wrist pin is 14.97mm, so we're off to a good start. The measurement from the bottom of the skirt to the piston top depends on whether you include the pop-up; 49mm without the pop-up, 50.20 with.

Center of wrist pin to piston top: 25.45mm / 27.05mm (approximate)

Top of wrist pin to piston top: 18.20mm / 19.77mm (approximate)

It looks like a Honda piston would be considerably higher, so I sure wouldn't plane the cylinder. Wiseco pistons to match the XR200 are available in 65.5mm, 66mm, 66.5mm and 67mm. Do you plan to bore out the cylinder?

Do you have an OHC engine? If so, perhaps a Honda cylinder would fit, which would allow you to run a bigger bore without machining costs.

[goofyexponent]

YEP! She is an OHC engine.

Currently there is no market for a high compression piston for the Zongshen CB250 (overhead cam engine) but apparently it is in the works..

What I might do in this case, is just plain the cylinder down, try and find a thinner head gasket (if not, plain the cylinder own some more to compensate) and stick it back together.

Maybe I can save a little more coin and go with a bigger bore cylinder like the XR200's and throw an oversize bore kit in THAT to REALLY pump up the CC's and compression.

I am not sure what to do here....any suggestions?

Should I put an XR200's cylinder and piston in it? What is the bore and stroke of an older XR200?

[goofyexponent]

1992 XR200R

65.5MM Bore and 57.8MM stroke

MY engine is a Zongshen CB350

65MM bore and 67MM stroke.

My TDC clearance is roughly 0.072" ot 1.84MM

The honda piston is about 3.56mm taller than my stock Zongshen piston.

I wonder is I can mill down the piston to make it work. I am near the top of the cylinder now when the piston is at TDC. I can reassemble and take a definite measurement of the piston when it is at TDC.

At best, I think I have 0.085" clearance when assembled with the stock head and base gaskets.

Is there a thicker base gasket I can run?

[FastDoc]

Whereas I respect the effort and the thought and the engineering I can't help but think that the cost/benefit thing is not going to work out on this...

With that said you could be the first to put a 4 valve XR200 engine in a CB :P

[Weldangrind]

It seems to me that the easiest route is to use a Honda cylinder and Wiseco piston. Does your engine have an automatic decompressor? You'll need one, or you'll break the kicker shaft.

You could certainly fly-cut a Honda piston to work with a China cylinder, but it would be way more advantageous to use an uncut Wiseco. I might even have an extra cylinder laying around.

Another thought is to use a piston designed for a 200cc Honda Big Red. They had a 65mm bore. You cut fly-cut that to zero deck and have a nice day. The wiseco version of the Big Red piston is available in either 10.25:1 or 12:1! 8O

[Weldangrind]

BTW, if you want a thicker base gasket, just stack two of 'em.

[goofyexponent]

I don't think she has any type of decompression valve. None that I can see anyways.

I am going to try and dig up info on a big red piston, but it appears that I might be going with the honda cylinder and piston route.

[Weldangrind]

Can you show us a close-up pic of the right side of the engine?

[goofyexponent]

ummmm....I can try. I got the whole thing apart and on the desk. There is no manual d.c. valve, and I am postitve there is no auto d.c. valve. Just an intake valve, exhaust valve and a spark plug in the head.

[Weldangrind]

I believe you. I'm wondering if Honda bits can be adapted, since the motor in "inspired" by Honda stuff.

[FastDoc]

I believe there are generic decompression valves available. People install them on high compression Harleys and the like to help save the starter motors. They install through a small hole drilled and tapped into the head.

I agree the kickstart mechanism is a weak point on this motor design, as it is on the XR200's in general.

[goofyexponent]

Ok, I have taken all the measurements, and taken pics of all the parts laid out on the computer room floor....yea, I know...I am a redneck for a reason lol.

What I am thinking of doing is buying a complete gasket kit, and then just a base gasket.

Putting the cylinder on with the piston inside and measuring clearance from TDC of the piston to the top of the deck.

THEN measure the head gasket thickness, factor in compression when it is torqued down. Measure for valve lift and see if the piston will impact any valves if I plain down the head.

Then meaure out how far I can plain the head down safely and have the piston valve reliefs cut accordingly. Then I think I am going to slap it all back together with the new gasket kit, rings and some synthetic oil and call her good for now.

What I might do is try and locate a blown up XR200R engine and build that fron the ground up. Seems to be a lot more of an aftermarket base for that engine than these overhad cam Zongshen ones.

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150783884090014.737804.503330013&type=3&saved for pics

[goofyexponent]

Well, I factored everything in, and it looks like I can get away with knocking 0.030" off eithe rthe cylinder or the head and not have any issues.

But, it's going to cost me $130 to shave 0.030 off the cylinder, more if I chose to shave down the head.

I ordered the gasket kit...the complete gasket kit for $40 today.

HOPEFULLY I'll be assembling the bike next weekend.

[MICRider]

It's been a few weeks, just wondering if you got the engine put back together?

[goofyexponent]

Actually, I am headed out to the shop today to start assembling the engine. I need to put a transfer case in my truck to start, then pick up some synthetic oil for the bike engine.

I hope to be making some noise with her tonight. It wont be fully assembled today, becaue I want to put a true mukini 30MM carb on her, something that will let her breathe properly.

[Weldangrind]

Have you grabbed new jets for the Mikuni?

[goofyexponent]

Not yet. I haven't even got the mikuni yet lol. I can get a used one for $30 plus shipping...$60 in total..and then jet it to what I need. I might as well throw a kit in it to freshen it up before I shove it on the bike.

[Weldangrind]

You can get a new one for $40 including shipping on eBay. Jets are usually $4 each at the local Yamaha dealer.

[goofyexponent]

Well, today I got some nice weather (+8*C) and some spare time, so I went ahead and stuck the motor in the bike.

The night I put her together, I was drinking with some friends and I SOMEHOW managed to jam the cam in 90* off, but I checked it before I started it and found it. I corrected it in about 5 minutes, and fired it up. It runs ok, but the cam tensioner is busted...the spring came apart inside and allows the cam chain to run slack. I need to get this addressed before i run it anymore, but it hits pretty hard!!

Videos to follow VERY shortly...hopefully by tonight.

[Weldangrind]

If that's anything like the OHC XR200 motor, it'll carve up the aluminum in a hurry. Looking forward to pics.

[goofyexponent]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VWEOoHIqCqw

First startup. I have given it a tiny smash of ether before this to prime up the carb. As soon as it kicked I shut it down, got the camera and fired it up.

This is the bike running on the original carb, the new one is on the way from ebay...a true mukuni 30mm.

I have no reassembly pictures, but I can get some pics of the engine in the bike with all the copper gasket maker I used to seal it up for proof of reassembly.

Once I work out the cam tensioner problem, I will break it in, and take some good test videos of her moving along...it seems to work better, but I don't want to hammer on it until at least 20 hours of break in.

[Weldangrind]

It's alive! :D

So, what did you shave in the end? Just the cylinder, or did you shave the head as well? Is the piston at zero deck now? Any idea of the CR now?

I expect that you'll need a 115 main and a 30 slow jet to feed that 230.

What kind of copper gasket maker do you use? Is an RTV?

[Weldangrind]

As an update, I just installed the new 30mm Mikuni that arrived the other day. I installed a 115 main and 30 slow jet for Son of Weldangrind's 230 pushrod China motor, and it is still lean. I'll be back at the bike shop on Tuesday to buy a larger slow jet. Even with the pilot screw backed out two full turns, there is considerable backfiring through the exhaust.

BTW, we're using a factory 1983 XR200R air filter and a Hummer muffler (which is pretty much a straight pipe like a Gio).

[Weldangrind]

A further update: we got the jetting figured out last night. Check here for details: http://www.chinariders.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=13678

[2010limited]

If it was me, I would just pull the gio motor out, and make a couple motor mounts and use the entire xr200 engine.

[Weldangrind]

Where's the challenge in that? You don't even need new motor mounts, because the bolt pattern is the same.

[2010limited]

I wouldn't trust the tuning ability of the gio engine to run 11 or 12:1 compression.

If it was easily do-able and somewhat reliable they would do it from the factory. I don't see that much potential in the gio engines as far as modifying.

Like someone else posted, the time/money outweighs the outcome.

[Weldangrind]

The only concern that comes to mind with the Gio is the lack of compression release. If you slowly lick past TDC on compression, your kicker should be ok. The rest of the motor is very close to an OHC Honda 200.

The factory isn't likely to ever build high compression mills, because they retain so many in China and export several to India, etc. High compression requires high octane to thwart detonation, and I bet it's hard to come by in developing nations.

[goofyexponent]

I have NO idea what the compression ratio is in this engine, but this is what I had done.

0.20" off the head. I plained the head and not the cylinder because plaining the head would raise the CR a little more than the cylinder due to the shape of the combustion chamber. It wasn't much of an advantage over the cylinder, but it was a little.

After checking out clearances and measuring valve height, I had the piston fly cut a touch (I can't remember how much, but it wasn't much)

Then when assembling it, I took the middle shim out of the head gasket set (0.10") for a total drop of 0.30 at ful torque down.

The bike runs like a cat with it's tail on fire, but I need to get my hands on a camshaft chain tensioner...mine broke and I have NO idea where to source one without buying a whole engine from Gio.

Here is a short clip of it running

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjQ6Tvo29bw

[Weldangrind]

It sounds good! Do you have pics of the parts you need? I'll be happy to compare it with XR200 stuff.

[goofyexponent]

Thanks weld! I was doing some looking and it appears that the XR230 cam tensioner will fit like a glove.

The XR200 uses a different style with the bolt protruding downward into the motor, where as teh XR230 has a tensioner that protrudes horizontally into the cylinder.

Once I install this piece, break it in on conventional oil and switch to synthetic again, I am going to pit it against another X31 that is totally stock as a comparison. I should walk all over it, but reliability may be an issue. Time will tell on that.

I hope to have it up and running within the next two weeks, but I quit my job as a trucker and started working in the woods for a bit until an excavator operating job opens up at a company I applied for.

On another note, I bouht a Poulan P3314 for $50 the other day....BRAND NEW IN THE BOX. It never touched a piece of wood!!!!

[Weldangrind]

On another note, I bouht a Poulan P3314 for $50 the other day....BRAND NEW IN THE BOX. It never touched a piece of wood!!!!

Wow! Good score. Princess Auto often has Poulan surplus stuff, so they might be a good source for parts.

[goofyexponent]

Well, I had it running the other day. I went out this morning, put all the plastics on it and decided to fire it up for a minute or two.....no fire.

Great! Now what?! I tested for spark....nothing. She is getting fuel, has good compression but no spark.

I got fed up and let it sit there, I need to pull the plastics back off it to pull the tank so I can get a look at the wiring underneath.

I think the coil or rectifier has had enough and quit.

Also, I think I just bought the sister bike to mine for $250...owner says it has "issues"....we'll see what issues it has.

[goofyexponent]

Weld, you want to see what little 33cc Poulan go! I hauled the miffler off, gutted it, bored out the outlet holes in it and bolted it back on the saw.....LOUD as a rock concert, but it made a difference in the way it cuts.

I also bought a Powersharp system for it. It seems to work REAL well a new sharpening system.

[Weldangrind]

Do you have any safety switches left in the system? They were originally equipped with switches on the brake lever and brake pedal, IIRC. Perhaps one has gone South.

Good news on the Poulan! I figured that the little motor would be more sensitive to back pressure, but obviously not. I might try that on my 33cc leaf blower. Please tell us about the Powersharp system.

[goofyexponent]

The powersharp is a special bar and chain set you buy for the saw.

I opted for the 18" although most Poulan haters said I would regret it. They were wrong. The powersharp is available in 14", 16" and 18" lengths.

Now, you buy the bar. It comes with a plastic piece that snaps onto the bar via two stud holed near the end.

When you open the plastic piece, you will see there are a couple grooves in there that something will fit into, but you have no idea what yet. Open your chain (you need to buy separately) and you will find a grinding stone in a half moon shape, and you will find it will pop right into that groove inside the plastic snap on sharpener.

Install the chain and bar. It goes on normally. Run the saw until it gets dull....this is where it all pays off.

Shut the saw down, snap the plastic piece on over the bar through the stud holes. Now start the saw, run it full throttle and push the plastic piece into the ground until you see sparks...count to 3 and let off. Your chain is now RAZOR sharp!!

Shut the saw down, remove the sharpener and go back to work.

It's litterally THAT fast...and it works!

http://www.powersharp.com/

I am not one to fall for gimmicks, but I got caught up in this and I tell you, I will NEVER look back at a conventional chain unless I want to ruin it by cutting stumps close to the ground, get into some HARD beech wood or something like that.

I can whip up a quick video next time I take my saw out, but it's as easy as the site says it is!

[Weldangrind]

Wow! That's even a lot faster than a dedicated bench sharpener like the on at Princess. Thanks for letting us know about Powersharp.

[goofyexponent]

I got it running again!

I though that with only 20 - 25 hours on the bike from last season, that there is NO WAY an electrical part went bad THAT fast. I started with the Ignition box. Pulled the plugs out, sprayed contact cleaner in there, a little dielectric grease and plugged it back in.

2 seconds of cranking on the starter...she fired right up!

Now, it's just the matter of getting enough money for the cam chain tensioner adn I will be able to really test this thing out.

I think today I am going to pull all the plugs apart, clean them and put dielectric grease in them....just for safe measure.

[Weldangrind]

Good news! :D

Have you found a cheap source for the tensioner? Have you tried www.bikebandit.com ?

[goofyexponent]

Well, to be honnest I haven't been looking an awful lot. I had the bike out last night to warm it up and set the valves up on it, but I never really drove it much. I am afraid of knocking the timing chain off and ruining my engine.

[goofyexponent]

Ok, so last Thursday I gave up trying to source a cam chain tensioner. Honda didn't want to help me with out a bike VIN number, so I told them what I thought of their high school graduate parts counter guys and left.

What had happened to my tensioner was the spring that hold the adjuster's tension came unwound and out of the body of the adjuster.

After about 45 minutes, 2 beers and using a pair of needle nose pliers and a seal pick, I managed to get the cam tansioner all back together, and functioning properly.

So, the time had come to see what that bike would REALLY do.

I fired it up, drove it around at just above idle for 10 minutes or so, just to warm her up. Then I went around my house, and across the walkway towards the road, while my fiance and her friend were sitting in the livingroom that overlooked where I was riding.

I was slowly driving in first, just above idle and I twisted my wrist back ALL the way...WIDE OPEN THROTTLE!! The bike spun the tire in the gravel, then pisked up the front wheel. I NARROWLY missed the upright supports that hold the patio up abd I got teh wheel back down. Shiftred into second and ripped her open again. The front wheel comes up, I am spinning the tire madle AGAIN until I hit the patio stone walkway...burned rubber on the stones and I had to let off...I was coming up to the road and parked cars fairly quickly!!

I let my best riend drive it. He drov eit stock last summer and he can;t believe the difference. The power isn't all too much more than a stock bike until 2/3 of teh RPM sweep, then it just goes like it';s got NOS.

I will get some videos up as soon as I can, but with me working as much as I am, it might be a week or two.

I have to rebuild my buddy's gio 125 (rings are bad) and it needs teh cylinder honed. I have the ability, technology....we just don't want to spend a whole bunch of $$ on this one.

Anyone know where I can get a top end kit for that bike? (2010 gio 125 piston, rings and a WHOLE gasket set?)

[Weldangrind]

What kind of beer? :lol:

Sounds like it has been a worthwhile experiment. Glad to hear it's running well.

How do you know the 125 rings are bad? Does it have a loss of power, or does it just smoke? If the power is ok, try changing the valve stem seals first. If you need to do the top end, search "125 dirt bike cylinder" on eBay, and continue searching until you find a complete top end kit, like this one: Dirt Pit Bike 1P52FMI Engine Cylinder Kit 125cc Parts (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/Dirt-Pit-Bike-1P52FMI-Engine-Cylinder-Kit-125cc-Parts-/180574698037?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_100&hash=item2a0b173a35) . Make sure it doesn't say GY6 in the title.

[goofyexponent]

Keith's ALL the way!!

I won a 3m monster decal kit for the 250 yesterday. I started fome frame work ont he old girl, I guy off ALL the unused tabs on teh rear subframe and ground it all smooth., then put a coat of black tremclad over the ground areas.

I intend on doing the same thing with the rest of the frame, and then installing a few needed clips and tabs to hold my hydraulic clutch line away from the heat sources surrounding it.

Then, the bike is coming apart 100%, being sandblaster and primered with a rust inhibiting primer. then ALL the black frame, is being painted lime green (to match the monster energy kit), and being put together with stainless hardware (in non load bearing applications) and chromed hardware (in load bearing applications)

I am going to install a mini battery kill switch, a decent start/kill switch from a CRF 150, and a few other mods (like mounting the back fender to the frame, and not the seat. Wing nuts to remove teh seat on teh trail to diagnost electrical issues, a steel bodied fuel filter with reusable filter, blue synthetic fuel lines, adapter to move the air fitting on the rear shoc to a more accessable location, new back tire (Kenda Millville 90/100 16) and a new set of back brake pads (they are at 1/2 now, I don't want to ruin a rotor)

I also DEPSERATLY need a carb. I got the mixture richened up as FAR as I can adjust it, and I am still running WAY lean. After 5 minutes of WIDE open riding, the exhaust pipe is glowing. I Don't think there is junk in the stock carb, but I am going to check it out. I want a true Mukuni 30MM anyways, something a little less finicky and a little more reliable.

This will all be taking place VERY shortly...like over the next couple of weeks.

I had the bike up on Kijiji for a while, to see what kind of interest it might bring. I know the economy is tough, but I am not going to let the bike go for pennies on teh dollar, or for whatever junk people have in their garages. TV's, pocket bikes that won't run, 4 wheelers that have no engines, 3/4 bald tires for my car...I think I am going to keep it, and run it.

[Weldangrind]

Keith's is enjoyable, but their IPA isn't nearly hoppy enough. The dark and the amber are pretty good, and even the white is decent. If you want a really good IPA, the best I've had are from Oregon. It seems that every brewery offers one, and they'll make you pucker.

You've got the engine dialed in to where you like it, so why not keep it? The 30mm Mikuni I've bought (several times) is only $40.00 including shipping, so that will solve your carb issue. On Son of Weldangrind's pushrod 230, I found that it likes a 115 main and a 30 slow jet, using a stock Honda air box and a China wide open muffler. I expect your bike to have similar needs, since it's also around 230cc.

I'm a big believer in SS hardware. I even swap the carb bowl screws to SS socket head cap screws.

Do you do the painting yourself?

I never thought of a CRF150 start switch; that's an excellent idea for a project we're about to start.

I use snowmobile fuel line (the blue stuff), because it remains flexible in cold weather. It's also cheap, like me.

[goofyexponent]

Where did you get your cab at for $40? I have been doing some looking but I can only come up with about $65 for a cheap one.

I have painted before, but I HATE doing bodywork and painting. I don't know why, but I HATE it. I am pretty damn good at it, but I HATE it!! lol I got the guns and all teh gear, so I am goign to lay out a REALLY nice, couple of even coats of green. Make it last.

I just thought of something else I want to do...and that's load the inside of the frame with fluid film once it's painted. Keep any rust from forming inside the frame I might as well, I will have the bike apart and hanging from a forklift to paint it, so what's another $40 and an hour of my time?

The worst part is goign to be keeping all the bolts bagged up and labelled as to what they are for...and having the bolt store go through them and get me proper stainless replacements without mixing anythign up.

[Weldangrind]

Fluid Film is the good stuff! I use it on all kinds of stuff, including my garage door hardware.

Here's the carb: Carburetor Carb ATV Dirt Bike Quad Honda MIKUNI 30mm (http://www.ebay.ca/itm/180592100139?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649)

[goofyexponent]

Thanks Weld. I am going to be ordering one tonight when I return from gettting my taxes done. God I love overpaying all year to get a big cheque this time of year.

Well, I got all the primer bought, and my paint. I decided on a flourescent green rustoleum paint.

http://rustoleum.com/CBGProduct.asp?pid=105

The green color of course. A good layer of grey primer and then 3 or 4 coats of this should give me the results I want. The grey primer should dull down the color a little.

Tonight, I jamed on another gio 250 carb with a "drilled" out main jet. The guy I got it from said it was similar to a 145 main jet with a 30 pilot. WOW! This thing comes to LIFE now!!! On gravel, forget about more than 1/2 throttle.

I think I am picking up a 2007 pushrod 250 gio this weekend coming (a week tomorrow) I think the guy ordered an OHC piston for it, which has a bigger bore than the pushrod. He thinks it's a 125 engine in it, but I think otherwise.

It comes with 2 or 3 motors, a pile of 125 gio parts, a bunch of yamoto parts (similar to gio, if not identical) and a good frame, suspension and plastics.....$250.

That thing will be getting the cases split, new crank bearings, rod bearing, all gaskets and seals, hot stator, bored out cylinder, plained head, hot ignition and a custom air box....like a custom fiberglass airbox. I am working on something for my 250, so it's WAY wasier to change the filter and you don't have to take teh clamp off the carb EVERY time...what a PITA to get at!!

What do you guys think of a CR 125 or CR 250 engine in a gio 250? Sleeper or what?!

[goofyexponent]

Ok, new development. The new carb with it's pilot, and the mixture screw opened way up...it's still running lean. I took it for a 5 minute run at WOT, and the exhaust pipe was glowing red....not as badly as teh first time I noticed teh lean condition, but enough to make me notice.

It still pops when you let off the fuel, but again, not nearly as badly.

Gooberment took me for some $$, so the paint and sandblast is the only thing in the budget until work opens up....carb will have to wait.

Can I drill the main jet out anymore with a precision drill bit and press?

[FastDoc]

Can I drill the main jet out anymore with a precision drill bit and press?

I suppose so. My buddy's motorcycle shop has a special tool kit for just that purpose. May be cheaper to buy a new jet or bring jet to a local shop than to buy the drill bit kit though.

[Weldangrind]

I drill main jets all the time. Last night, I drilled out a main jet for Midlifekrisis. I started with a 100 and drilled it out to about 114. You need a numbered drill bit set that goes as low as 60. I use a small manual drill made by Fiskars for that purpose; they also make scissors and garden tools.

[Weldangrind]

What do you guys think of a CR 125 or CR 250 engine in a gio 250? Sleeper or what?!

Two strokes are too peaky for my liking in the woods; I love four strokes for bush bikes. Two strokes are awesome for racing, but I don't do silly stuff like that at my age.

That green you picked should look really cool! 8)

[goofyexponent]

If she jumped her timing and retarded the cam timing 2 teeth, would that cause her to run hot?

When I found out my cam tensioner let go and I parked it, it had jumped two teeth on me. I fixed it, turned my idile down a 1/4 turn and all is well now. It seems to work a little better, but I need to re-lash my valves sometime this weekend.

I have been testiculars to teh wall with work. I just finished up working on a 2007 International Workstar for my boss. We owned it, but we sold it and we agreed to get the truck through safety inspection by fixing whatever it needed. $25 an hour to wrench is just FINE with me!

[goofyexponent]

What do you guys think of a CR 125 or CR 250 engine in a gio 250? Sleeper or what?!

Two strokes are too peaky for my liking in the woods; I love four strokes for bush bikes. Two strokes are awesome for racing, but I don't do silly stuff like that at my age.

That green you picked should look really cool! 8)

I can just imagine Vicki on a 125cc two stroke hornet. He has trouble moderating the throttle on a 4 stroke....I think she would climb a tree with a two stroke lol.

We will know how that green will look in 2 weeks time. I am waiting for my buddy to finish his annual fishing trip to Mooseland, and we willdrag my bike into his shop, strip it down...sandblast it, paint it, re assemble and I will have his professional decal installer put the monster decals on my black plastics. This should be a one of a kind bike all around when I finish.

I would LOVE to get a better rear shock, any ideas what might be a bolt on deal for this thing? I THINK I have a set of front forks off a CR85 for free, but don't hold me to that.

[jcurrieta]

I also DEPSERATLY need a carb.



I had the bike up on Kijiji for a while, to see what kind of interest it might bring. I know the economy is tough, but I am not going to let the bike go for pennies on teh dollar, or for whatever junk people have in their garages. TV's, pocket bikes that won't run, 4 wheelers that have no engines, 3/4 bald tires for my car...I think I am going to keep it, and run it.

hahahaha Hi have mine up there too over here in PEI and i got trade messages for ipod touch, rc cars, ps3, trucks with no back window, a civic with no engine, cell phones,, all kinds of junk,,, old 3wheelers needing work. It needs work and ill take 600 for it as it sits,, thats what i have into it,,, its got the PZ30 carb on it if that catches your interest... I wanna sell the hole bike tho.

[Weldangrind]

If she jumped her timing and retarded the cam timing 2 teeth, would that cause her to run hot?

When I found out my cam tensioner let go and I parked it, it had jumped two teeth on me. I fixed it, turned my idile down a 1/4 turn and all is well now. It seems to work a little better, but I need to re-lash my valves sometime this weekend.

I have been testiculars to teh wall with work. I just finished up working on a 2007 International Workstar for my boss. We owned it, but we sold it and we agreed to get the truck through safety inspection by fixing whatever it needed. $25 an hour to wrench is just FINE with me!

For sure! Retarded timing generates heat, so it's a good thing you found it.

[goofyexponent]

http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10150783884090014.737804.503330013&type=3&l=ccc8030b71

Last tow pictures on the album. the decal kit came in finally, and I got it installed. I need to hit it with the heat gun a little to detail it, but it looks like a whole other bike!

On another note...that green paint isn't available at ANY local Canadian Tire anymore.....I am thinking either silver, or alunimum paint color for the frame now. Either way, I am dusting the engine with a jet black gloss VHT high temperature paint. Make the whole thing look like it came off the showroom floor....although it's not far from it the way it sits now!![/img]

[Weldangrind]

That looks amazing! Please share a link to where you got the decals from; I'd like to get some for a buddy of mine.

[goofyexponent]

I got them from this guy here Weld. If you wait and see, he may post some as a 1 cent start price as an auction instead of buy it not for $40.

http://www.ebay.ca/itm/3M-Monster-Decal-kit-Gio-Atomic-xmotos-Zuma-Daymak-250cc-chinese-dirt-bike-/320813112261?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item4ab1f39bc5

I even went to 2 walmarts yesterday looking for that color paint...it's like it does not exist anymore.... :x

If all else fails, a nice silver will look pretty good on the frame.

[goofyexponent]

Well, the carb had been ordered officially. I got the same carb Weld had pointed out to me.

I am unsure what jetting it comes with, but I will be going to the local bike shop and getting a 30 pilot and a 115 main to start. See what that does for the old girl.

I may end up going a little larger to make SURE I am not lean. I hope the throttle response changes drastically. My bike, if twisted WOT quickly, will hesitate, bog out and then go like something kicked it.....I want instant power like my old CR had...touch it and it goes.

[Weldangrind]

Thanks for the link.

The new carb will come with a 100 main and a 20 slow jet. Pitiful. On midlifekrisis's 230 quad engine, we ended up with a 30 slow jet and a custom-drilled main that is about 114. He says it rips. :D

[goofyexponent]

are there apecific jets I need to get, or will any mikuni jets work? I would LOVE a 40 primary and maybe a 130 - 140 main....that would let her haul the mail!!

[Weldangrind]

Easy, big fella. :lol: The motor isn't that thirsty.

Slow jet: VM28/486-30, AKA 342-6180
Main jet: N100.604-115, AKA 342-1610

Start there. A 130 main isn't even likely to fire.

[amwilkie]

I got the same decals. I prefered the monster look over the stock graphics. I haven't seen him post them for very cheap, but you can make him an offer I think I made an offer of $25 and he accepted it(of course there was taxes and shipping on top of that).

[goofyexponent]

Well, I ordered the carb last week, and I am currently waiting on it to arrive. I have sourced out the jets on Ebay, but I am going to try a local bike shop and see what they have to say first.

I am still waiting for the carb to arrive in the mail.....shouldn't be much longer I don't think.

I haven't started the bike since last week, but I want to take it out SO bad it's not funny. I've been busier than you know what lately.

[Weldangrind]

It will take a little fiddling to get the carb to meet your engine needs, but it'll be worth it.

[goofyexponent]

So I go into the local Kawasaki dealership yesterday morning, with the part numbers for the jets to fit my new carb.

My turn comes up, and the parts guy asks how he can help me. I told him I need a couple jets to fit my bike and I have the part numbers.

He turns to the computer and asks what kind of bike it is....I said Gio.

He turns away from the computer and says he can't help me.

"whynot?" I asked.

"We get 10 calls a day for parts on them piles of junk, and we turn ALL customers away" he goes.

Then I let the cap fly. First off, my bike is NOT a pile of junk....the KE100 I owned 8 years ago was. It broke down more than my Gio ever THOUGH of breaking down.

Second, I have part numbers for a carb that is used on a HONDA dirtbike. A brand name bike, and the part numbers are Mikuni part numbers.

Third, if your bikes wern't 10 times the cost of this Gio, I would consider a KX 125....if it didn't break down as much as my KE100.

Mad as you know what, I turned and marched out of the store....why do people hate these bikes so much?

[jaloos]

Mad as you know what, I turned and marched out of the store....why do people hate these bikes so much?

Several Reasons retailers and customers don't like these bikes.

We are all aware of the tinkering and messing around with them to get them reliable. Customers with about the same mechanical ability as a corn flake buy these things, rip them around straight out of the box then slag on them when they break down and they can't fix them.

Retailers hate them because these non mechanically inclined people bring their problems to them to try and get them fixed. They also don't like the fact that people are buying product at a tenth of what they are selling their stuff for.

Die hard Japan bike riders hate the idea that someone is having just as much fun on a piece of equipment that they are on a unit that cost a tenth of what they shelled out.

The china bike retailers are also notorious for either being hard to deal with or being scammers. Gives the units a bad name by association.

Next time you need something from a Jap bike retailer like the jets and they ask you what its on say a dune buggy or go kart. Do not say the infamous 3 letter bad word G I O.

[jaloos]

ooops

[goofyexponent]

LOL...the kicker is this Jaloos...even if I walk in and SAY I have a Honda XR 200R...I need to provide them with a VIN number. I went through this with Honda, a couple weeks back. I had the SAME situation.

What hurts guys like us, is EXACTLY what you sayd. People who can't change a dead battery in a TV remote are pounding on these as if they are CR250's, then when they come flying apart in a month...they go in to get them fixed. They moan and groan about how bikes are bikes, and it shouldn't cost that much for this and that....

I recently started offering weekend work for off name brand bikes only. Re-ringing, rebuilding completely, tire changes, bearing replacements, all that fun stuff. I am only charging $25 an hour plus parts (shop supplies like motor oil and whatever can either be bought by them and brought to me with the bike, or bought by me and only charge the retail amount without a markup, unless I have to make a special trip to town)

I HATE how people bash these things. I have had several bikes apart, and this thing is not much different. the frames are not as tough true, but I am not out beating the snot out of my bike everyday. Some trail riding, but mostly fire roads and the occasional hill climb.

I am ordering the new jets off Ebay today......$15 but it's not the end of the world. 30 pilot and a 115 main. It should be a HUGE improvement.

On another note, I changed the needle position on the slide from the middle groove to the bottom groove. All hesitation seems to be gone and the power is a lot smoother. It can only get better from this point on!

[goofyexponent]

In an honnest statement of fact, how many guys on here with a STOCK gio can catwalk in first and second gear, merely by rolling harder into the throttle?

I tried it in first gear today, and the bikes picks up teh nose fairly fast, second gear is the same thing. I am hoping for a similar effect in thrid with the new carb. I can lift it in thrid, but I got to try pretty hard with LOTS of go go juice.

[jaloos]

Hey i took out the Rebel Ti twice last weekend and went on the dirt bike trails that the big boys with the big toys go on.

It faired awsome and only had a issue trying to climb a hill that the 450cc dirt bikes take. I went everywhere else the big boy toys went without an issue.

For an CVT 110cc motor it performed like a champion. Only real complaint is the front end is a little too stiff, a shock change will fix that.

Would I pay 4 grand for a used Jap quad to have the same amount of fun as I had on my brand new 600 bucker. In short H3LL NO !

My neighbor was selling his polaris atv and couldn't get it started. Who came to the rescue the guy next door who works on china bikes. Determined if there was spark and then figured out there was no gas. Hit the float bowl with a screw driver and she fired right up. A shop would have soaked him a couple hundred bucks to fix that.

Thats why they don't like our china bikes because we learn to fix them ourselves.

[Weldangrind]

I never say what I'm buying the parts for. When it comes to jets, I simply bring the jet in that I'm trying to match up, and the counter guy can then order the size I need. Every time I'm in there, I let them know that I found the same parts online, but that I'd rather support a local business (not just for nickel and dime stuff); they're always grateful.

If the counter guy asks what the jet is from, I just say it's from a Mikuni that I bought on eBay, which is true. I say that I don't know what it was originally designed for, which is also true. BTW, I buy the jets from the local Yamaha shop, because they speak Mikuni (Honda speaks Keihin).

Hope that helps.

[goofyexponent]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ETvWk1dhRr4

Together, decaled, and test riding.

I got the stock carb to stop popping and snapping, but with the mild stock jets, I can't wait to put the mikuni on it with the bigger jets.....it should MOVE.

I didn't have a helmet on, so nothing too wild.

Enjoy.

[FastDoc]

Outstanding result. :D

I'm sure you will like the Mikuni. :wink:

[Weldangrind]

Your bike looks really good. Looking forward to the Mikuni test.

[goofyexponent]

Thanks, the decal kit REALLY set it off. I took it to work in hopes of taking it for a ride, but I got distracted by broken trucks.....oi..

Toyota 2.4 filling it's oilpan with gasoline...and not just a little, almost a gallon of gasoline. I got her fixed though...Injector stuck and was simply dripping fuel in the cylinders and it was running pas tthe rings.

I am betting on that carb landing here either this week or next week. I still need to get jets...turns out my yamaha "dealer" is the same store that bashed the Gio to begin with....so Ebay jets it is for me!

[jaloos]

I still need to get jets...turns out my yamaha "dealer" is the same store that bashed the Gio to begin with....so Ebay jets it is for me!

Idiots, one would think money is money. What does it matter what you plan on using the jets for, you would think they are single handedly trying to put china bikes out of business.

The real kicker is these people are the same ones that complain when people spend money across in the US or ebay.

They need to shut the F_ck up and just take the money already.

[goofyexponent]

I hear that Jaloos!! It drives me NUTS how people won't sell you anything for a cheap alternative.

I bought a snowbear plow and put it in my F250 4x4...mostly for ym own driveway, but I plowed quite a few driveways this winter with it. I needed to get some bolts....some simple hardened bolts...which are universal between my plow and a fisher to hold the cutting edge on....and the fisher plow store pretty much mocked me and said they had nothing there to fit the cheap imitation snow plows.

So I said screw you, you are just a bunch of @$$holes....I went to fastenal and got what I needed....and at about 1/3 of the price too!

If Procycle won't help me, then the money I needed to spend on a tire, jets, decal sheet, and a few other odds and ends will go to the states through Ebay. I need parts and I don't have time to play these games with those idiots.

I had a NASTY rattling in my muffler and it was driving me INSANE....so I took it apart last night to find out why. There was next to NO packing left, the spark arrestor screen was blown out and missing. The "baffle" (pipe with all the holes in it) ws loose as a lone peanut in a coffee can and it was rattling around. I took it out and then I seen teh packing was all blown to crap. So I hauled it out...I need to replace it. I put the hollowed out muffler back on, and to my surprise...it's NOT that loud.

I am going to buy a bunch of steel wool and put that muffler back together better than factory. I HATE any rattles and shakes......this coming from someone who drives a diesel pickup...lol

[Weldangrind]

Four stroke packing is easily found and is probably less expensive than steel wool.

[goofyexponent]

Well, my Mikuni showed up today. I brought it home, and HAD to put it on. I went out to the garage with a couple cold ones, the carb and I was in a GREAT mood.

I put the carb on the bike, and started adjusting it. It works WAY better than the PZ 30. The idle is WAY smoother, there is no poooing and coughing and stalling at ALL.

So I got it somewheres close and took it for a drive around hte house.....WOW! It REALLY came to life. You can REALLY feel a difference in the quality of the carb.

Now, the mood killer. The bike had a hard time returning to idle. After a few minutes it was idling at about 4000 RPM....GREAT....NOW what?!

The throttle cable is frayed where it goes into the throttle housing, and it wouldn't pull back hard enough to let the slide close all the way.

So, now the bike is sitting in the garage, all apart AGAIN, and I am looking for a throttle cable.

I think I am just going to order one online and now try screwing around with the local "dealer" because they are no help at all.

[FastDoc]

Glad for the good result.

You either have a sticking slide/throttle cable or an airleak. Pretty much has to be one or the other.

[Weldangrind]

Bummer about the frayed throttle cable housing. :( Maybe you can find a matching Motion Pro cable that will do the trick. With measurements and pics, perhaps an email to them would answer the question.

If you're successful, please post the part number here.

[jaloos]

Good news on the carb. Wonder how the kids knock off mikuni will work on his X35.

For the cable try the higher end mountain bike shops, you may find one that makes custom cables.

You could always find a longer cable than what you need to and do the small end on your own.

I usually cut the cable to length then wrap the end with a wrap of some thin wire. I then use some flux and solder on the end. If need be you can sand the nub for lack of a better word so it fits well into the slide.

[Weldangrind]

I usually cut the cable to length then wrap the end with a wrap of some thin wire. I then use some flux and solder on the end. If need be you can sand the nub for lack of a better word so it fits well into the slide.

Jaloos, I've never tried that. How do you form the nub while the solder is hot? Have you ever tried some type of form?

I've heard of making a new lever end with JB Weld and a drinking straw as a form, but I don't know how well it lasts.

[jaloos]

I usually cut the cable to length then wrap the end with a wrap of some thin wire. I then use some flux and solder on the end. If need be you can sand the nub for lack of a better word so it fits well into the slide.

Jaloos, I've never tried that. How do you form the nub while the solder is hot? Have you ever tried some type of form?

I've heard of making a new lever end with JB Weld and a drinking straw as a form, but I don't know how well it lasts.

The wrap around the end is big enough, to stop it slipping through the slide. The solder just holds it there. The sanding is in case it winds up being a little too big. I use some of that really thin stainless wire that is used to tie the paper shipping/lableing tags to things.

Fool around with some old cables you will figure it out fast enough.

[goofyexponent]

Well, another update.

I picked a fight with a Yamaha Grizzly 700 EFI. From a dead stop, he will pull 5 feet away and stay there. He's 4x4 and I am not. But if we start from a rolling start....I can gain 5 feet on him and keep it.

The Gio is working REAL good now!!

But, the bad news. The cam tensioner that broke on me when I did the engine work, came back to haunt me on my first real trip out. We went for about 1/2 an hour and stopped. I shut the bike down, got off for a walk and a rest. I got back on and kicked it over, INSTANT knocking!!

It ran, idled but it knocked like a you know what.

I turned around and headed back to the house. I knew what had happened. Sure enough, I took the two bolts out og the cam cover, and pulled it off. Chain was slack as it could get.

I removed the starter, then the cam tensioner and done a little redneck repair to it and put it back on the bike. It's running now, but I don't want to take it far now...it might screw up again. So not I need to find either a factory Zongshen cam tensioner OR modify the one I have to make it a manual adjustment style. Jus tth matter of drilling it out, tapping it and using a bolt and nut to jam it when it's tight on the follower.

OH, and I just ordered a 90/100 16 Kenda Millville Intermediate rear tire for her....it should go where I point it now.

[goofyexponent]

OH! I might also make a "block off plate" for my starter. I don't like the electric start, but I don't want to completely remove it from the bike 100% in case I sell it.

I will remove the trigger wire to the solenoid, tuck the starter power wire away and have a block off plate made...save a pound or so too lol.

[Weldangrind]

It'll probably make it a little easier to kick start as well, but not much.

Your tensioner issues are exactly why I preach about the pushrod engines. No cam upstairs, so no chain to worry about. The cam gear eats a little power, but not enough to worry about.