PDA

View Full Version : oil grades and styles questionair


shammash55
05-20-2007, 08:27 PM
this is a lil poll i am curious about, i run rotella 15-40, looking for what everyone uses.

bfe71730
05-20-2007, 10:53 PM
Castrol 20/50, use it in all my toys

ambassador
05-20-2007, 11:16 PM
Sham,
Read through the forums....

FMYStreetRacer
05-20-2007, 11:59 PM
+1 on reading through the forums or even doing a search.

but.... don't use anything with a api rating higher than sj and you'll be fine. i run repsol 15-50 mineral oil in mine.

cycleway4
05-21-2007, 07:46 AM
yes,...lots written about this.............but Honda GN4 10-40 anyway.

FreightTrain
05-21-2007, 10:26 AM
im using valvoline 20w50 motorcycle oil

30-Arider
05-21-2007, 10:32 AM
Rotella here as well; especially for break in! High Zinc content does very well with hydraulic flat tappet designed camshaft and lifters. For me living in Florida I typicall run 15/50 or 15/40. May switch to full synthetic Wal-Mart brand..very cost effective.

red2003
05-21-2007, 10:50 AM
High Zinc content does very well with hydraulic flat tappet designed camshaft and lifters.

What does this have to do with our China Bikes???

Jim
05-21-2007, 11:04 AM
I believe it is Motul 10w40 mineral

katoranger
05-21-2007, 06:30 PM
Using Rotella 15w40 for the breakin period then going to Amsoil or Mobil 1 synthetic.

Allen

fatboy250
05-22-2007, 10:01 AM
Out of curiosity, would the Mobil 1 synthetic for cars have the same foaming problems as standard oil when used in a motorcycle? I wouldn't think so, but I'm no oil expert.

I've used Valvoline 10w-40 for motorcycles and Castrol 20w-50 for motorcycles ever since I found out about the foaming issue with conventional oil.

Jason

30-Arider
05-22-2007, 01:17 PM
High Zinc content does very well with hydraulic flat tappet designed camshaft and lifters.

What does this have to do with our China Bikes???

Just saying because there has been a huge probelm with hydraulic camshaft failures over the past 5 years in the auto industry and it has been linked to removal of zinc in most oils as it clogs catalytic converters. So higher zinc content and friction moving parts such as rings, rocker arms if you have a push rod style motor, even an OHC motor where there is not a roller type cam this high zinc can always help. If deisel motors with super high compression can run it Id bet its pretty good for a small 200cc air cooled single cylinder bike that works pretty hard. Just giving opinion..did I ruffle a feather cause I didnt mean to.

FreightTrain
05-22-2007, 04:03 PM
High Zinc content does very well with hydraulic flat tappet designed camshaft and lifters.

What does this have to do with our China Bikes???

Just saying because there has been a huge probelm with hydraulic camshaft failures over the past 5 years in the auto industry and it has been linked to removal of zinc in most oils as it clogs catalytic converters. So higher zinc content and friction moving parts such as rings, rocker arms if you have a push rod style motor, even an OHC motor where there is not a roller type cam this high zinc can always help. If deisel motors with super high compression can run it Id bet its pretty good for a small 200cc air cooled single cylinder bike that works pretty hard. Just giving opinion..did I ruffle a feather cause I didnt mean to.

but how well do they perform with wet clutches? and what about clutch wear? i have no idea myself

30-Arider
05-22-2007, 04:53 PM
[quote="FreightTrain
but how well do they perform with wet clutches? and what about clutch wear? i have no idea myself[/quote]

I run Rotella in my YZ450F for the past 2 years and my wife's PitsterPro all with no problems and have not had to replace friction discs on either bike yet. Thats all my expereince.

FMYStreetRacer
05-22-2007, 09:31 PM
the problem with running newer car oils is that they have a high moly content. our clutches are border line as it is. trust me guys run nothing higher than a API SJ rated oil, your clutch will thank you.

no need to run synthetic. our bikes have no oil filter so we should be changing the oil way before it ever has a chance to break down. i change mine every 500 miles. Repsol mineral based oil is $4.99 a liter at the local bike shop so $5 2 times a month is fine for me and my clutch slips allot less now that i stopped running car oil in my bike.

AZ200cc
05-22-2007, 11:45 PM
Valvoline 10/40 four stroke with wet clutch protection..Always been a Valvoline fan.

FMYStreetRacer
05-23-2007, 12:21 AM
i was running the valvoline for a while but it's kinda expensive around here at $6 a quart. i get the Repsol for $5 a liter (little more than a quart) and it has a super nice pourer built right into the bottle. i literally don't spill one drop.

AZ200cc
05-23-2007, 12:25 AM
YIkes, 6 bucks a quart!?!?!? About 4.99 here, PLus I get a discount because I am an employee..So it's costs me three bucks. I like the idea of the pourer though, I have bad aim :lol:

red2003
05-23-2007, 12:32 PM
Out of curiosity, would the Mobil 1 synthetic for cars have the same foaming problems as standard oil when used in a motorcycle? I wouldn't think so, but I'm no oil expert.

I've used Valvoline 10w-40 for motorcycles and Castrol 20w-50 for motorcycles ever since I found out about the foaming issue with conventional oil.

Jason

Jason, I can answer that question this weekend. I have an oil test session planned, along with a few other temp tests which I will post the results of. I am switching out the dino oil for synthetic this weekend. I have been running valvoline 10w40 as well. I am gonna try some Mobil 1 15w50 car oil. I plan to drive it hard, pull over and check out the sight window for oil foaming. Easy enough to tell. I'm sure it'll be fine, but I'll let you all know. I also plan to do some engine temp testing. I have an infra-red temp gauge and want a baseline engine temp with the dino oil, then one with the Mobil 1. I am also gonna try pulling the front tank fairing louvers and see if it drops the engine temps any. Those louvers are used on water cooled bikes to keeps rocks away from the radiators, but I fear they are restricting air flow over the top of the head. I'll post up the results when compiled.

fatboy250
05-23-2007, 03:30 PM
Sounds good Professor Keenbean!!!!

I would be interested in the results of this experiment as well. I've had thoughts of removing those louvers too, but I figured they should be helping or else they wouldn't have installed them. Heck that would have been $0.25 off the production price of the bike :lol: If they weren't needed.

I think I had also read about a temp gauge dip stick for these engines, but I can't remember where I saw it. If the synthetic makes the cut, I'll probably give it a try. Right now I'm running the 20w-50 for the summer. Seems to run smooth.

Oh yeah, you still running your stock clutch springs?

Jason

shammash55
05-23-2007, 08:56 PM
ya want to know how that works out, dam louvers lol.

IronFist
05-23-2007, 11:10 PM
I've only done about 400km, but I've been wondering about synthetic. From earlier threads, (yes I asked this question too) :oops: I thought syn. was the way to go, once broken in. I'm intrested in your test Red.

I had all the plastic off except louvers when I preped my bike. Now don't laugh, I liked the look with out plastic. :D I don't dirt. I drive street. With the correct front fender, small cruiser seat, a painted wider gas tank, the right handle bars, and street tires, well it sort of looks like a tiny cruiser, with long forks.
If I have to keep the painted louvers, then I'll keep ALL the plastic, and probably the DS look. If I can ditch the louvers, and the rest of the plastic, I might take a trip to the wreckers. All depends on how many seasons I get out of it. Winter is the time for mods in Toronto.

SamM
05-23-2007, 11:18 PM
I'm using Harley-Davidson brand 20W-50. This is leftover from my Buell days. It is recommended for wet clutches.

red2003
05-24-2007, 08:29 AM
Sounds good Professor Keenbean!!!!

I would be interested in the results of this experiment as well. I've had thoughts of removing those louvers too, but I figured they should be helping or else they wouldn't have installed them. Heck that would have been $0.25 off the production price of the bike :lol: If they weren't needed.

I think I had also read about a temp gauge dip stick for these engines, but I can't remember where I saw it. If the synthetic makes the cut, I'll probably give it a try. Right now I'm running the 20w-50 for the summer. Seems to run smooth.

Oh yeah, you still running your stock clutch springs?

Jason

JC Whitney sells the dipstick oil temp gauge. I'll be doing the tests Saturday. Will post up right after. I thought those louvers must have a purpose too, but I wonder if they just copied them off a liquid cooled bike and didn't know the difference 8O . Stock clutch springs with no problems so far.

frostbite
05-24-2007, 08:44 AM
I ditched the louvers a while back. No problems so far. I think they're more for show than anything.

red2003
05-24-2007, 09:38 AM
I ditched the louvers a while back. No problems so far. I think they're more for show than anything.

Good to know. I will find out for sure when I do the test. I am gonna run back to back 10 mile stretches with, and without, them and temp the engine on some fixed point, or points, with my infrared gun. Now that FatBoy mentioned it, I wish I had an oil temp dipstick to measure the oil temp accurately too. LIGHTBULB!!!! I have a meat thermometer I can bring with me and stick down in there! So, I guess I will test engine AND oil temp with dino oil vs synthetic, engine and oil temp with louvers vs no louvers and also check to see if the Mobil 1 car oil foams. COOL!!! And to answer your question Pauli (I know you're thinking it :D ), YES, I will clean the thermometer with some gasoline in the shop, throw it in the dishwasher, and use it in the kitchen again 8O . Hey, I'm a guy, I can't help it.

fatboy250
05-24-2007, 09:55 AM
Red,
You da man! I can't wait to hear how it turns out.

Jason

red2003
05-24-2007, 10:27 AM
Will do!

TheOtherRide
05-24-2007, 12:36 PM
Hmmm...a little oil never hurt anyone's pot roast. I do think it will be an interesting sight when you pull over and stick a meat thermometer in your engine, though. As long as you keep the turkey baster out of the picture...hehehe

red2003
05-24-2007, 01:08 PM
Agreed, although I have used the turkey baster to pull old brake fluid out of master cylinders before. True story. But, it was my Mom's and she refused to use it again afterward :( .

SamM
05-24-2007, 03:25 PM
Posted by: red2003
Agreed, although I have used the turkey baster to pull old brake fluid out of master cylinders before. True story. But, it was my Mom's and she refused to use it again afterward :( .

Been there, done that! Mom wasn't happy!

red2003
05-24-2007, 07:43 PM
Posted by: red2003
Agreed, although I have used the turkey baster to pull old brake fluid out of master cylinders before. True story. But, it was my Mom's and she refused to use it again afterward :( .

Been there, done that! Mom wasn't happy!

Sometimes you just gotta do what you gotta do.............