A seemingly unusual issue with Zong Storm 250GS

[AustinConnell]

My 06 Storm is sucking oil into the airbox..
At first I thought that the air filter was just really stopped up and was creating a vacuum. The problem with that is, I removed the filter completely and it still pulled up into the airbox. The bike now has a ton of power compared to before now that I have the filter removed, so I think it was bad. I will need to replace that of course, but either way, there should not be a ton of oil in my airbox. About 3-4oz of it.. Has anyone else ever experienced this issue? If so, what was the problem and how did you fix it?

[Krasi_BG]

How is the oil level in the crankcase?

[AustinConnell]

How is the oil level in the crankcase?

This is the unusual part. The levels are perfect. So it's not overflowing at all. It's like the case is becoming pressurized somehow.

[FastDoc]

The case is becoming pressurized from combustion gasses blowing past the rings.

Do a compression check to confirm. It is likely low. Make sure the valves are not too tight (staying open) and recheck. If still low add a little oil to the cylinder and recheck. If it is the rings, and I'm pretty sure that's what it is, the compression should momentartily increase.

If this confirms my diagnosis your engine needs a top end rebuild.

I had the same bike and it needed a top end at less than 2,000 miles.

To remove the head and cylinder you have to remove the engine first. Noit a fun job, but do-able.

[MICRider]

I fear it's blowby past the rings as well, especially if it does it with the air filter removed as well... Time for a leakdown test!

[Weldangrind]

The interim band-aid would be to re-route the breather hose out of the airbox. On all of my bikes, the breather hose routes behind the motor and points at the ground.

[AustinConnell]

The interim band-aid would be to re-route the breather hose out of the airbox. On all of my bikes, the breather hose routes behind the motor and points at the ground.

Wouldn't this cause the case to squeeze out oil when pressurized potentially getting onto my tire?

As far as doing a compression test what are you referring to?

[FastDoc]

Yup.

If you do that realize that it won't fix anything and will be temporary.

I'd fashion a filter/catch basin for the oil as it could lubricate your tire and cause an accident.

I don't recommend it as the bike now runs and is rebuildable if you choose to. If you run it and it seizes it may damage the lower end and make it unrebuildable.

Compression check:

http://www.dansmc.com/compression_test.htm

[AustinConnell]

Yup.

If you do that realize that it won't fix anything and will be temporary.

I'd fashion a filter/catch basin for the oil as it could lubricate your tire and cause an accident.

I don't recommend it as the bike now runs and is rebuildable if you choose to. If you run it and it seizes it may damage the lower end and make it unrebuildable.

Compression check:

http://www.dansmc.com/compression_test.htm

Thanks for the link!

I would consider the fix if this were a daily driver for me. It's too cold to be out on the bike currently, so being out of commission right now isn't going to be a big deal. I'd rather take care of the motor and avoid ruining it more.

I have access to a compression gauge and I will be checking that tomorrow night. The poor compression alone could explain the engine running terribly. I will more than likely rebuild the whole motor within a month or so. I will need to tear it all down to find the true problem. Once I've done that, I will try to get a write up on here. Hopefully it won't be too much of a task. Warm weather will help.

[Weldangrind]

If you do that realize that it won't fix anything and will be temporary.

I'd fashion a filter/catch basin for the oil as it could lubricate your tire and cause an accident.

Agreed. Hence my band-aid reference.

Hopefully rebuild parts will be cheap as chips on eBay, which would allow you to buy a new piston, cylinder, rings and gaskets as a package.

[katoranger]

I think you will be the first to attempt a rebuild on one of these. I hear you on the cold. I stood on the courthouse steps yesterday waiting for a house to come up for auction. 9am to 3pm. Windy and 25 degrees.

[AustinConnell]

I think you will be the first to attempt a rebuild on one of these. I hear you on the cold. I stood on the courthouse steps yesterday waiting for a house to come up for auction. 9am to 3pm. Windy and 25 degrees.

Maybe the first of many if I can manage to do a good write up on it. I see that you're in Auburn, I'm actually in North GA in Hall County.



Hopefully the parts won't be too expensive. I've got a pretty dependable dealer down in Miami that I've been sourcing parts from. I don't have much into this bike, so I've got some room to work. I will have to tear it all down and see what the real issue is then we'll see if its worth operation. :)

[FastDoc]

The PIA I ran into with mine is that you can't remove the upper end of the engine without removing it from the frame :x .

Not the end of the world but that's where I said 'screw it' and sold it to a guy who wanted to fix it up and sell it on. I paid $150 for it, put about $150 in parts into it, and sold it for $200, IIRC so mostly all I lost was time and dignity :oops: .

[AustinConnell]

The PIA I ran into with mine is that you can't remove the upper end of the engine without removing it from the frame :x .

Not the end of the world but that's where I said 'screw it' and sold it to a guy who wanted to fix it up and sell it on. I paid $150 for it, put about $150 in parts into it, and sold it for $200, IIRC so mostly all I lost was time and dignity :oops: .

I figured that would be the case. There isnt really too much holding it in the frame right? I just need to take off the chain, carb, exhaust, and motor mounts. And maybe the shifter linkage?

[FastDoc]

That's it. I just didn't want to put the effort in at that point anymore. Mostly I was aggravated I bought a non-running bike with no compression and then spent $ on it's ignition system only to then find out it needed a top end too.

It's a good looking and seemingly comfortable bike, and should have Zong like relaibility but on this forum people have not had good experiances with them. Mostly ignition and piston problems.

[AustinConnell]

That's it. I just didn't want to put the effort in at that point anymore. Mostly I was aggravated I bought a non-running bike with no compression and then spent $ on it's ignition system only to then find out it needed a top end too.

It's a good looking and seemingly comfortable bike, and should have Zong like relaibility but on this forum people have not had good experiances with them. Mostly ignition and piston problems.

This bike hasn't had any issues so far with the ignition, and I'm hoping that it doesn't have any major issues other than a couple seals being worn or burnt in the top end. This bike is really just one to keep me busy and get me from point a to point b when the weather is nice or when I don't want to drive my car with a serious drinking problem. in the event that the compression is poor still after a decent rebuild, ill end parting it out as most of the parts on the bike are in mint condition and I've got custom painted ferrings;) ha.

[AustinConnell]

Going to be tackling this in a couple hours after work. Does anyone know what the ideal compression should be? Also, are there any other engines that share the same gaskets so I might be able to quickly obtain replacements?

[Weldangrind]

Not sure; I'm only guessing at around 9:1. I'm curious to see the piston and cylinder. I'm wondering if the skirt is too short, which caused rocking and scoring. If that's the case, a new piston and cylinder will be a temporary fix, but it will certainly run well enough to sell it. That said, I'd never stick a buyer like that without first explaining the situation.

Once you have the head removed, we can get a better idea of which gaskets would fit. Pics please. :D

[AustinConnell]

i will hopefully get some good photos of all the parts. I want to create a decent resource for some people on the forum. I do intend on selling this bike in the very near future, not because of the condition of the bike, which is actually pretty good, but because I'm ready to move up in the food chain. I want to get something 600-750cc for a decent price as my commute involves a good bit of interstate riding I'm tired of getting blown around so much by truckers and I'm concerned about the reliability of this bike... ANYWAYS totally different thread for that whole situation. I'm about to get off of work, so I will report back shortly.

[larish41]

if you unit uses the engine designation "2v49" a multitude of units have interchangeable gaskets & hard parts... i have actually "big bored" a 2v49 for my vento. (which also uses the 2v49 engine)

[AustinConnell]

I have been seeing on other forums that this is a fairly common issue. They're saying that at higher rpms, the Carb is pulling in air so quickly that it is creating a venturi effect which is creating a vacuum within the airbox sucking the oil into the cylinder. This seems very accurate with my issue. The fix that I've seen suggested has been a fitment of a small breather on the vent. Tips eliminates the pull on the vent tube, but I'm slightly concerned that this vent was placed there with more of a purpose than emissions.

Either way, I will be rebuilding the top end..I have ordered a rebuild kit that comes with a head gasket, piston, piston ring, piston pin, cylinder, cylinder gasket, air filter, and fuel float for 204 shipped. The second two are needed repairsthat I decided to get parts for while I was already paying shipping. The whole rebuild kit was 160 just for reference.I will update again as soon as I receive the parts.

Any opinions on the breather idea?

[larish41]

on the breather idea... install it as close as possible to the crankcase, mount it vertically, and put the "inlet" end towards the engine... the idea being to allow the condensed vapors(now oil) to drain back into the engine, and not be trapped in the canister. use as large a filter as possible also, to allow free flow back & forth...

[AustinConnell]

That would be the idea for sure.

One more thing, I've been told that this bike uses 10w40 oil and that the engine, crankcase, and transmission all share the same oil reservoir. I was also told, which I am assuming to be incorrect, that this bike only requires .25L oil. This must have been some sort of misunderstanding due to the fact that I've removed more than just that from my airbox alone!

Anyone know the correct amount of oil and could anyone else confirm the type as well?

[katoranger]

I would say that it holds about 1 quart. At least that would be a good starting point. Most of the china 200s are a quart.

[AustinConnell]

That sounds about right. Thanks


Anyone know if the reservoirs are all connected?

[FastDoc]

Most CB's are 1 liter so 1.1 qts or so. I don't remember my Zongs but I think it was the same.

[larish41]

oil should be 10w 40 for your location (florida, right?) oil capacity is 1.4 liters

[AustinConnell]

I'll just purchase two quarts just to be safe. Ha


I'm in North Georgia though. :D

[AustinConnell]

anyone know what this is? perhaps a condensation catch for the oil?
http://i42.tinypic.com/a5l35s.jpg
http://i42.tinypic.com/6pvwrc.jpg

[MICRider]

Maybe some sort of positive crankcase ventilation valve? PCV for short :). Basically a one way valve so that crankcase gasses can be expelled but it wont suck air back in when there's a vacumn. I'm just guessing though, kind of what it looks like to me, hopefully someone that knows for sure will post a reply.

[larish41]

that is the crankcase "oil separator"it should contain a nylon/ foam type material to capture & condense oil vapors, then return them to the crankcase

[MICRider]

Sounds better than my guess! :wink:

[AustinConnell]

That is what I was thinking.

Still waiting on the rebuild kit. I've decided that I'm just going to start with the head gasket replacement. This should get me running long enough to purchase another bike. After that, I'll decide whether I want to rebuild the entire top end or not. (unless I get it all apart and the rings, piston, and cylinder are totally shredded!)

[FastDoc]

I never got mine all the way apart. I discovered I couldn't remove the head with the engine in the frame. At that point, for my project, I decided it was more trouble than it was worth and sold it as is (was?) :roll:

All I know is the valves were in spec and there was still little compression, maybe 75 PSI max, and the motor would not start as a consequence.

[AustinConnell]

I received some of my parts today and plan to be tackling this through the week.

On an even better note, I got my hands on a legitimate service manual for this exact model. (not some random bike that is "close") I will be working on making this available to zongshen storm owners!

Will update soon again![/u]

[FastDoc]

Thanks for keeping us in the loop.

I had an official manual too but I threw that in of course when I sold the bike. It was a pretty good manual.

[AustinConnell]

So last night I began working on this. I pulled the motor out
of the frame. Which wasn't as difficult as I thought. It's
held in with less than 10 bolts. I was working alone though
so it was a bit awkward at times. The main bolt that actually
holds the engine and the entire swing arm was the most
difficult one. There are lots of cables that must be
disconnected prior to removing the engine and you want to
make sure to drain the oil before you start messing with
anything unless you prefer a big mess. I didn't get to take
as many photos as I would have liked, because my sister is
borrowing my dslr. I snapped a few for reference with my cell
phone though. Once I got the engine removed it was fairly
simple to remove the sproket in the head, the chain
tensioner, and the head itself. What I found after further
inspection, is that the gasket was definitely bad and the
valves were not seating correctly. They have a good bit of
deposit caked onto them. The piston is showing the same
symptoms. I will be attempting to clean them both tonight
more than likely. Any tips for removing the carbon deposits? Questions comments?



Âhttps://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lZlS8lfHrUs/TyLMJ4l9t-I/AAAAAAAAA0o/vA7Ppf3jKB0/s400/IMAG0518.jpg (https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-lZlS8lfHrUs/TyLMJ4l9t-I/AAAAAAAAA0o/vA7Ppf3jKB0/s1024/IMAG0518.jpg)

Â
Âhttps://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-smP1o4slKfU/TyLMAcM6RfI/AAAAAAAAA0g/6PbWOotYzfg/s400/IMAG0519.jpg (https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-smP1o4slKfU/TyLMAcM6RfI/AAAAAAAAA0g/6PbWOotYzfg/s1024/IMAG0519.jpg)Â

[AustinConnell]

This is another view of the valves
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wGMUcpIvnd0/TyLMShc3h3I/AAAAAAAAA0w/Mv83_WCS6Sc/s400/IMAG0516.jpg (https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-wGMUcpIvnd0/TyLMShc3h3I/AAAAAAAAA0w/Mv83_WCS6Sc/s1024/IMAG0516.jpg)

[AustinConnell]

Just for fun
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6S3Zi9kDW28/TyLMv5c2WOI/AAAAAAAAA04/ATzUsYUgw1E/s400/PANO_20120126_224913.jpg (https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-6S3Zi9kDW28/TyLMv5c2WOI/AAAAAAAAA04/ATzUsYUgw1E/s1024/PANO_20120126_224913.jpg)

[FastDoc]

Good work. I think you'll have this sorted inexpensively soon and be able to enjoy your bike! :P

[AustinConnell]

thanks doc, I'm certainly hoping this will solve most of my issues. I don't wish to become frustrated with this project.


Also, for reference, this is a link to a YouTube video showing the timing notches. (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AeVQL5_9_aQ&feature=youtube_gdata_player)

[FastDoc]

I just came across some pics of mine. It was a very good looking and comfortable bike. Just wish I got to ride it!

[FastDoc]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v25/maule/winter%202011/z7.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v25/maule/winter%202011/z6.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v25/maule/winter%202011/z5.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v25/maule/winter%202011/z4.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v25/maule/winter%202011/z2.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v25/maule/winter%202011/z1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v25/maule/winter%202011/z8.jpg

Not the best pics these are when I picked it up before I cleaned it up.

[AustinConnell]

It's still a sharp looking bike nonetheless. As for the comfort, its the most comfortable bike I've ever ridden. The pegs are a couple inches high for me, but I've got long legs. The seat isn't as intrusive as others are. 8O it just needs a bit more power. I do hope that I will gain quite a bit once this all sorted out.

[Weldangrind]

If you have a bench grinder, see if you can find a brass wire wheel for it. Make sure it's actually brass and not brass coloured; try a magnet on it.

A brass wire wheel would be suitable for removing the carbon from the valves without removing the coating. Once the valves are clean, you can inspect them to confirm that the seating area is in good order. If it is not, you can lap the valves in by hand. A nylox brush in a drill would be a good solution for removing the carbon from the combustion chamber. All of this assumes that you have a valve spring compressor that will allow removal of the valves.

If you choose to use a nylox brush in a drill to remove the carbon from the piston top, place a shop vac hose right above the piston to remove chunks as they are removed. It's imperative that the schrapnel isn't allowed to fall onto the rings and remain there. Once the piston is perfectly clean, you could polish the piston top with a dremel and some white polishing compound, so as to prevent a porous area for carbon to collect in the future.

[AustinConnell]

Thank you weld and grind. You're proving your name!

I do have everything besides the valve spring compressor which I could probably makeshift something in place of that particular tool.
I have heard that I might need to soak the head as it sits, the cylinder, and piston in a vat of gasoline in order to soften the carbon. Using a stiff nylon brush I could scrub the deposit off. Does this sound legitimate?

[Weldangrind]

Sure, I just like power tools. :D Nylox brushes for your drill are cheap and effective. I'd probably use a little aerosol carb cleaner instead of gas.

[AustinConnell]

So I worked on this project a bit more tonight. I got a lot accomplished in my opinion considering it is now 2am and I'm exhausted. ha. Anyways, I chose to soak the parts (head and valves, piston, and cylinder) in the gasoline. This did help immensely when trying to scrub off all of the excess carbon deposit. I soaked them for about 45 minutes, then I repeatedly scrubbed with a nylon brush and a blunt tip flat head screwdriver and kept dipping the part that I was working on into the bucket of fuel that I had. This method was very effective. The grime was not easy to remove by any means, but it came off after quite a few cycles. The piston was the easiest part to clean, while the cylinder was slightly more difficult due to the tedious motion I had to go with in order to avoid damaging the edges and the walls. The valves were the most difficult things to clean. I had to continually dip the entire head into the fuel and turn the sprocket in order to open and close the valves so I could clean the rear areas. I got it all to my satisfaction and reinstalled the top end using brand new gaskets to seal everything up. Here are some photos of my progress. Again, sorry for the poor quality since these were shot with my phone camera..

The piston before
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-XPbVV0Q1pIg/TyTutUEaFOI/AAAAAAAAA1M/H_GZrvTp1h4/s640/IMAG0525.jpg

The piston and cylinder after
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-Ecy3cnbS574/TyTvA_YaXpI/AAAAAAAAA1c/re4txaHbap4/s512/IMAG0533.jpg

Valves and head after
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-FglqqGXACFQ/TyTvHTRdRbI/AAAAAAAAA1k/GmWlNRgeaxg/s640/IMAG0536.jpg

Reassembled
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-tP-9RLnglzw/TyTyuxAYtfI/AAAAAAAAA1w/rL4R0QaKurc/s640/IMAG0538.jpg

[Weldangrind]

That looks much better! If you choose to take the head off again, you could turn it upside down and fill the combustion chamber with water. If the water doesn't leak out, you have valves that seal well enough.

[AustinConnell]

That looks much better! If you choose to take the head off again, you could turn it upside down and fill it with water. If the water doesn't leak out, you have valves that seal well enough.

I didn't include that in my description, but while I was cleaning the head, I did that with the fuel. I dried the underside and poured fuel in from the intake and exhaust side. They were sealing just fine after I cleaned around them. Before, they weren't sealing at all. I could shine a flashlight through the valve and it would shine right through!

[Weldangrind]

Excellent! So, you managed to clean the valves while they were still installed in the head?

[AustinConnell]

yep, I was avoiding having to remove them and reinstalling them. I didn't want to have to make any adjustments as that is a bit out of my knowledge area. I was able to use a small screw driver wrapped in the course side of a velcro strip to scrub away the build up on the back side of the valve. The valve itself was not bent or gouged from the deposit surprisingly. I just slowly but surely got behind everything and cleaned it all up. I also degreased the spring since it seemed to be slightly sticky. After I did that it was moving smoothly again.

[Weldangrind]

Sounds good. Had you removed the valve, there would be no adjustment necessary. The only adjustment to worry about is the timing marks (which you already established) and the valve clearance (which you should do).

[AustinConnell]

I definitely need to get my hands on some feeler gauges... I would have checked that if I had some readily available. I know they're somewhere in the garage. I will probably just pick some up tomorrow from the parts store when I pick up some oil to refill the engine with. (1.1L 10W30).
I'm really hoping that this was the main issue with the bike loosing power at higher RPM. This bike is a blast to ride and is really comfortable as I have lower back problems. It handles great and doesn't look to bad either! Although, all of these are useless if it can't get down the road without dying on me...

Am I right in thinking that the valves and head gaskets being damaged would cause the oil in my airbox issue?

[Weldangrind]

Please don't use 10W30; find either a four stroke motorcycle oil or a non-energy conserving oil (like Rotella). The weight is up to you, but I would choose 10W40 in colder weather.

I would have thought that oil in the airbox would be due to excess pressure that is being released, but you couldn't build excess pressure because of the poorly sealing valves. That stumps me a bit. Maybe there is reversion that occurs, which is blowing oil back through the carb on the compression stroke. Did you find any evidence of oil in the carb?

[AustinConnell]

Oil type noted. Thank you.

As for oil being in the carb, there is none. It was definitely coming out of the breather hose attached to the top of the engine. I removed it and ran the bike for a few minutes and it began to ooze out of the top. There has to be some way for the valves to be lubricated, I'm thinking that maybe while the valve was open, the fuel was combusting and the pressure from that was feeding back through the oil routes in the head causing over all pressure in the cooling system. The only place for the pressure to be relieved would in turn be the cooling hose right? This hose being connected to my airbox would explain the oil being there. Then when the oil is sucked through the head again, it would be exponentially causing the carbon build up and fowl out my plug causing the motor to die like it was..

This is a theory of mine, I have no idea if this is a legitimate one though!

[FastDoc]

Good job :D .

Something important I want to point out though :idea: .

Working with gasoline as a solvent is very dangerous. The fumes are bad for you, it gets in through your skin and is carcinogenic, and most importantly it is flamable and explosive 8O .

Mineral spirits, kerosine, diesel, heating oil, and Jet A are all basically the same and much safer to use as a solvent, and they work just as well.

In my shop I use diesel and mineral spirits. At the airport I use Jet A just because it's available.

[Weldangrind]

Excellent point Doc. I cringed at the gasoline, but I forgot to mention it.

AustinConnell, that's a terrific theory. I hadn't considered that combustion gases were travelling through the oil passages to get to the crankcase. Hmm. You ought to have a good runner now. :D

[AustinConnell]

I was out in the driveway when working with the fuel, I had some old gas sitting around that I needed to get rid of anyways. I didn't have any of the other chemicals around.

Today I rebuilt the bike and it is running. I will detail the process in a bit!

[FastDoc]

I'm really glad to hear about your success and I'm looking forward to many ride reports of good times on your bike. :D

[AustinConnell]

Today:

Remounted the engine (no small task due to the way the swing arm is designed -_- especially as a one man team.) I placed a cinderblock beneath the frame and unbolted the rear bolt from the suspension to allow the swing arm to move freely. I aligned the engine bolt and started attaching the engine from the top to make it easier to manage. Once it was mounted with the swing arm, everything was basically just reverse of removal. I remounted the carb, fuel tank, sprocket, chain, hoses, wiring, shifter linkage, and all the covers. The bike started reluctantly the first time, but after running it for a few minutes it was running very well. It seemed to have a bit more power than before. I haven't taken it down the road yet since it was already cold and dark by the time I finished. I just need to finish adjusting the shifter linkage as it is having trouble shifting up and down reliably. Once that is taken care of, I'll take it out for a ride and see if there is any oil being expelled from the crank case like before.

If anyone has any questions about this particular thread, feel free to ask! This may seem rather daunting to some (I know it did to me), but it really isn't too difficult! Just be sure to try to have a second or third set of hands to help you out. It was fairly straight forward. I had the manual, but didn't even use it at all. Just be sure to separate the nuts, bolts, and pieces and MAKE LOTS OF NOTES of what lengths the bolts are. This makes a big difference.

Thank you to all who helped with my questions!

[Weldangrind]

Glad to hear that it runs! :D

Did you ever find the feeler gauge? If so, were the valves out by much?

[AustinConnell]

I have not found the feeler gauges yet, but I did take the bike up the road for a test. The bike performed much better in terms of acceleration and health. I was about to rev around 9k instead of just 7k so there's an obvious improvement. I think I need to retune the carb tough. It will flood if left idling for a couple minutes on choke. There was no oil in my airbox either so that's a plus too. I suppose my theory about the valves may have been correct! The weather is great today. I think I'm going to push it and take a longer ride. I'm able to ride gloveless, jeans, and a light zip up jacket comfortably! In January... This Georgia weather will never make sense to me as it was begining to snow yesterday.. now feels about 65*f

[FastDoc]

It will flood if left idling for a couple minutes on choke.

That may be normal. It's best to get a bike off choke as soon as it will idle with it off.

A clogged airfilter will do that too.

Zong valves are easy to check, the inspection ports are generously large.

Enjoy the weather.

I think we've been, for the most part, blessed with a mild winter.

So far..... :roll:

[AustinConnell]

I did replace the airfilter so I'm going to say it was the choke that is flooding it.

I began my second ride and got a mile down the road, but at a stopsign, I put my feet down and heard a metallic cling at first I thought something had gone wrong with the motor as it was pretty loud. Luckily, I looked under the bike and saw a part of my shifter linkage rolling away. The bolts had vibrated loose. I hand tightened them back up and got most of the way back home until it fell off again. I was close enough to home to just ride very slowly and coast down the hills in first gear to my garage! That situation could have gone much worse! Now they are torqued much more than before and I hope that won't happen again. I may have to apply some loctite to ensure this.

As for winter, I would have to agree with your comment. I'm not a fan of the cold as I am a very cold natured person. I loose all feeling in my fingers due to really bad blood circulation.. I want the warmth of summer back!

[FastDoc]

Stuff falls off. Maybe more on CB's but stuff falls off all bikes :? .

Many years ago I lost a shift lever off my first bike, a 1980 GS1100E while crossing the Delaware River on a steel grate bridge by New Hope, PA. I had a pretty nurse on the back :wink: .

The lever went through the road surface into the river, lost forever with George Washington's silver dollar :( . I rode in second gear, I believe, to the closest town in NJ. Lawrenceville, IIRC. I bought a small vise grip and clamped it onto the shifter shaft. This helped me get home. I don't recall if the pretty nurse was impressed or not :wink: .

I still have that vise grip.

Thanks for reminding me of a fond memory of my long lost youth. :D

[AustinConnell]

That is a good story. I'm sure she was impressed. That's quick and resourceful thinking!

Luckily I was able to just keep it in my pocket :) there are no bridges like that around here.

[FastDoc]

It was Lambertville, I was close.

Here's the bridge.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v25/maule/winter%202011/800px-New_Hope-Lambertville_bridge_north_from_Jersey_side.jpg

[AustinConnell]

That's a nice bridge, there's one near here that looks a lot like that one called Brown's Bridge. It's funny though, Lawrenceville is a metro city about 25mi from where I live!

[Weldangrind]

To be clear, most everything on a bike needs Loctite. Buy a gallon and just pour it over the whole bike.

[katoranger]

It was nice yesterday. I was wearing a t-shirt. Brown's Bridge doesn't have the metal grates though.


Remembers the visegrips, but not the nurse's reaction. Priceless.

[FastDoc]

She was a cutie :D . A med-surg nurse at St. Peter's Hospital in New Brunswick, NJ. I also knew her mother who was a nurse there too. She didn't like me, thought I was an operator, and not in the OR if you know what I mean :wink: . She didn't want me to date her daughter. Strict Catholic family. In retrospect I can't say I blamed her :wink: .

In any event the daughter was too cute and we hit it off. She really liked bikes and I rode her on that Suzuki all over western NJ and eastern PA and we had a great summer. Eventually the mom even started to like me a little. Eventually the daughter went back to school at Yale.

Except for dating me she was one smart woman. :wink:

[AustinConnell]

Hey guys sorry for the delay in an update.
I checked the valve clearance and oddly enough, they were perfect!
The bike is running so much better and I actually rode it a bit further without anymore parts falling off! It has much more power throughout the entire range of rpm and isn't spewing oil anymore. I think we've fixed the issues! Thanks guys! I will update with a ride report the next time I get out. I just need to adjust the chain as it is very loose right now.

[katoranger]

We got good weather today.

[AustinConnell]

We got good weather today.

No kidding! I want to ride so bad but I'm at work. I will be riding this afternoon.