on/off Rat build (with apologies to Doc's dirt rat LOL)

[gloud]

Got sick of trying to find parts for my 74 XL175 rebuild (they have a chronic problem with the starter shaft breaking) And wanted electric start anyway. (I am going to use it as a commuting bike 40 mile round trip)
So I found a 07 Lifan 200 gy-5 for 100.00 got it running by cleaning the carb.

started the swap into my XL175 frame. the engine is actually a little smaller in size, I had to move one bottom mount over 3/8" to get the sprocket to line up. My xl sprocket fitted right up BTW. (520 chain ) Had to make new front motor mounts, (bolt on) and a new top mount as the mount on the lifan is back farther than the honda was. Got most of it done but the top mount.

Next will be the wiring harness and swapping from 6v to 12V (biggest thing is the headlight.) I do have some pics and will try to post some.

https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/eng.jpg

https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/eng1.jpg
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/eng2.jpg

[FastDoc]

No apologies needed I love it!

Funny I thought it would have been a direct bolt in replacement like it was in The Dirt Rat. These Chinamotors do great. :P

I expect that the 200cc Chinamotor will match the performance of the 175cc Honda motor quite well. Was the original a 5 or 6 Speed?

[gloud]

The back 2 mounts fit (mostly had to file out the top one a little) the front mounts where nowhere close, 1-1.5" off the top was in the center of the head on the xl and the back of the head on the lifan. both motors are 5 speed,

The xl motor ran fine, I just had to push start it, and the replacement starter shaft I found was close to breaking too. (and they are 150.00 if you find them )

The Xl175 was an odd duck of the Xl line, Just about all the parts for the engine are unique to it. Having ridden both (the lifan with a flat front tire too ) the Lifan had more power. I will possibly have to regear a little but we will see. (I am using the Xl sprockets. )

[FastDoc]

Also interesting is that on my Lifan the Honda sprocket would not fit.

[katoranger]

Where's the pics?

[gloud]

Where's the pics?
Just got them up LOL had to finish lunch and resize them.

[FastDoc]

The motor looks right at home.

I found that I needed to reuse the Honda intake boot. The exhaust bolted right up. Do you have a place to mount the battery?

[gloud]

I am going to try to reuse the Honda airbox, the battery box from the lifan should fit where the honda one was. (the xl had the voltage reg next to it, and takes up about the same amount of room.) I will put the China Bike (CB)
electronics under the seat and under the battery as needed. (the starter relay etc)

I am leaning towards using most of the CB wiring harness but I am missing the left hand control wiring. (they cut it off) and the headlight harness. So I have been trying to find a wiring diagram with no real luck so I will be tearing into the harness and redoing what ever I need to. (I am an electronic tech by trade thank god LOL)

Exhaust is the XL downpipe/muffler. I had to cut the manifold pipe from the CB pipe as the XL one is too large. But will use the first 3" of the CB pipe and then weld it into the XL pipe. then it will mount as before.

I have repainted the tank and sidecovers and still have to do the fenders and then clearcoat it. (it is the 1974 honda xl175K1 orange and black) )

Once I get the engine mounts done and all the wiring harness figured out and extra tabs welded onto the frame I will repaint the frame Black.

I have new tires, bearings, brakes and cable for the XL also.

I also have rebuilt the seat pan and added a repro seat cover.

This is a before picture.
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/xl.jpg

[FastDoc]

Your project is a bit more involved than the Dirt Rat but your's will be street legal and that's awesome. :P

The wiring on The Dirt rat was not so difficult but still took a couple of evenings fiddling. Finding a place for the battery and electrical tidbits was a bit of a POA. :?

The result was worth it. The Dirt Rat was an outstanding entry level trailbike. On tight little low speed technical trails the match for just about any other machine. :D

[gloud]

Yea this is my first street legal resto/mod. I have done 3-4 engine swaps over the years. One of the fastest was an RD350 engine into a Kawasaki Tecate 3 wheeler. I am 99% street now a days, too many screws and ti bits in the bones to go offroad much anymore. But I like the upright riding style and light handling of an Enduro. (and so does my back. ) (I Used to race Moto-x, Trials, enduro and hare scrambles. and ATC's in flattrack)

A spinal fusion and both knees fixed and both shoulders and I have slowed down some LOL Got back on a bike last year for commuting (my 78 DT175 yamaha) and did a little offroad mostly to prove to myself I can still do it.

Wanted a winter project and the XL was it. Messed around finding parts but I decided I wanted a newer engine with CDI, and electric start and easy to get parts. so I have been keeping an eye out for the Pushrod lifan and finally fell into it along with having some spare $ And I took the weekend off from dealing with my mom's estate that I have been dealing with since Nov.

Felt real good to do some wrenching and welding. Ahhh...

[FastDoc]

Wrenching is theraputic, although when things don't go right frustrating. it really gets to my OCD streak :roll: .

How old are you? My gosh you make my injury/orthopedic surgery list look quite short. :wink:

BUT I'm going riding this afternoon with Roger. I plan to do at least some of the ride on Rogers new KX450, Hannibal. 8O

[gloud]

I'm 48 Just an over achiever. It took me a long time to feel pain lets put it that way. Tore a rotator cuff in the left shoulder, had to have the inside of the right pinned, and torn meniscus in both Knees (one twice) . L5S1 in the lower back. Still have two more bad disc's above that, and one in the neck.
(the neck is combination from Steel pot in the Army and riding. )

But hey I can walk and do most anything I want to (slower than before..)
I was not far from a wheel chair before he fusion.

I am pretty anal about the detail work so I am sure it will take me awhile to get it done, But I will have it ready for riding season.

Commuting didn't hurt any of my ailments last year and I think helped my BP.

Have a good ride Doc. :D

[SpudRider]

Thanks for documenting your project with photos, Gloud! :) Please post more photos. In fact, we would love to see larger photos detailing your work. I enjoyed seeing the detail in your last, larger photograph! :)

Spud :)

[gloud]

You never know how larger pics will go over, Some forums are nutty about big pictures. I will get some more pics when I work on the bike this weekend. (the advantage of carrying a Iphone all the time.)

Ordered the last few parts I should need (new battery and 12v headlight)

How Noisy are the starters on these engines? AS I didn't have a good battery
I tried it with the battery charger on it, and it wasn't too bad, sounds like the gears could be greased to help.

[Jim]

I'm not an expert on starter noise.

We like pictures here, so long as it's not ridiculous like 4 times wider then the forum formatting, but something like your last picture was great.

[katoranger]

I think I still have some some left hand controls with good wiring. May have the right too. Let me know if you want them.

[gloud]

I think I still have some some left hand controls with good wiring. May have the right too. Let me know if you want them.

Please check. the right side is fine just need the left. If you have an ignition switch I would be interested in that also. (headlight pigtail also. )
Basically the Front wiring I am missing. (speedo etc. But I want to run my XL gauges. )

[SpudRider]

You never know how larger pics will go over, Some forums are nutty about big pictures. I will get some more pics when I work on the bike this weekend. (the advantage of carrying a Iphone all the time.)

Ordered the last few parts I should need (new battery and 12v headlight)

How Noisy are the starters on these engines? AS I didn't have a good battery
I tried it with the battery charger on it, and it wasn't too bad, sounds like the gears could be greased to help.
I know what you mean about photo size; we certainly appreciate your courtesy in this regard. Some forums only want you to post thumbnail photos, but that's not the case here. ;) You can post photos approximately 25 percent larger than your last photo, and we will be very pleased to view them. :)

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

I'm gonna follow this project. :D

With a 30mm Mikuni and the right jets, this motor will feel like you're splitting atoms, compared to the old 175 motor. I wonder if XR200 motor mounts would have fit properly.

[gloud]

I will stick with the stock carb (CB) for now, till I get everything done. the exhaust for the Xl is a lot more free flow than the CB one. With the XL airbox it will be interesting to see how the jetting is.

As for the Xr mounts who knows, It took me 20 Mins to cut the plates to weld onto the CB mount, and then another 5 mins to weld. Compared to my Custom 4x4 fabrication this stuff is nice to work on. Got it sitting up on a stool at a good hight and don't have to lug Toyota truck axles around.

[katoranger]

I have both left and right sides, but I don't have a keyswitch or other wiring. The switches are yours for the price of shipping. Just send me a PM with you address. Paypal is good for me. Also I am parting out my xr200r too. Plan is to buy a ready to ride dirt bike in the future.

Weld let me know if need any parts from it. I will set them aside.

[gloud]

https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/xlbatt.jpg
Location of the battery box, It will slide out the left side, 3 bolts.
air filter sits above it, I will enclose the filter except for the top so rain/water will not get sucked in.

https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/xlexh.jpg

Got the down pipe exhaust onto the engine. And I tested the engine starter (It works Fine ) So one less thing I have to buy.

Didn't get as much done as I wanted to, the welder broke and I had to fix it, (old Mig) and I had to go new hardware. But some progress. Next week is likely going to be a bust as I need to get the estates cleanout DONE. (but we May have a buyer for the house. (I hope.)

[SpudRider]

Thanks for posting the large, clear photos, Gloud. :) You are making good progress; your bike looks great.

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

It looks like you welded a chunk of rectangular tube for use with the upper mount. Good idea.

Does that kicker clear the exhaust? Cool pipe, BTW.

[gloud]

yes the kick start does clear everything. the down tube is stock xl175 and the muffler is actually a grafted on SL350 muffler. (That way when I got it.) I have a bassini High pipe for it also but I just like the looks of the scrambler exhaust.

And I used a 2x2" piece of square tube with the top cut out to fit the frame for the upper frame mount and I have two cut out top mounts to fab and then bolt on. Getting all my missing pieces ordered, and when I get a full weekend to work in the shop I should be able to knock out the rest.

I have a 7" headlight to add to it to replace the stock 6" 6v unit. A little brighter and replacement bulbs are easy to find vs a vintage bulb.

as it will be a daily driver if things work out I have to think of these things.

Suggestions are welcome as all comments.
Thanks
Glenn

[Weldangrind]

I like the scrambler exhaust as well. What happened to your welder? What brand is it?

I hope the sale of the house goes smoothly.

[gloud]

It is an old marquette welder (175 amp. ) I have been nursing it along for the last 10 years (bought it used ) and it owes me NOTHING. LOL
I did a lot of 4wd suspension fabrication, roll bars, bumpers etc with it.
The current problem was feed issues It was the liner on the hose/gun combo.
I finally got it clean and blown out and then I had some issues with reassembly. But she is welding good now and feeding properly.

(I first started having issues when a friend yanked the whole welder around by the gun. ) Time for a new one some day. Or go large and buy a new welder. :D

Thanks on the selling of the house. I am hopeful on this buyer, Just trying to get the garage cleaned out for sat. took two loads of junk out this am, and hope for a load or two tomorrow am. The joy is this is the house next door to me so I will be gaining new neighbors too. It was left to us 4 kids other wise I would likely move there and sell my house. Fun stuff. NOT

[Weldangrind]

Have you considered a new hose and gun from HF? Maybe they have a close match.

I have a Miller 175 (which I love), but if I had to do it over again, I might gamble on the Eastwood welders. They are the only economy welders I've seen that have infinite voltage control, just like a Miller. Most MIG welders have 4, 5 or 6 voltage selections, but the Miller (and the Eastwood) is analogue between 0-10. I normally spend more time between 2-3 or 3-4 than anywhere else.

[gloud]

My Marquette was a whopping 200.00 used in 2001. I am going to throw a new liner into it for now, (it is up and working at the moment) But I have had to replace the main Capacitor already. SO what I will likely do is sell this one and buy one once the estate is settled. (along with a decent Tig. and Plasma cutter)

I will go with a vendor who offers parts support for sure. (My Mig uses Tweco handle so no issue there)

On other news I ordered a new Instrument package from Trail Tech a Vapor Computer Kit. I figure I have allready changed enough so lets go with what I want for upgrades. :D So I will have an integrated speedo, Tach, temp gauge, and a few other items they cram into them. I will be buying the mount that has the indicators built in also.

WIth the CB engine and with some careful gearing changes (to get it a little more MPG ) I should get decent milage. (better than my 78DT175 I rode last year. )

[katoranger]

65-70mpg should be no problem.

[FastDoc]

I'm very interested in the Vapor.

If (when?) I D/S the YZ I'd like to install a Vapor.

[gloud]

Got an afternoon in the shop today (after getting my Dt175 ready to go back on the road)
Got the electrical do-dads mounted, and after figuring out that the Lifan had a clutch safety interlock and defeating it for the test, Started it. Sounds good and Next after this is figure out the rest of the wiring. (headlight blinkers etc)
The joy of not having the full bike to steal connectors off of. my generic CB ignition switch worked fine, and the left control plugged in fine.
Here are todays pics.
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/xl1.JPG
Starter relay and I think blinker unit
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/xl2.JPG
Coil
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/xl3.JPG
Mess O' wireing
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/xl4.JPG
CDI mounted to the inner rear fender.

[MICRider]

Dang, this is gonna be sweet when it's done! Can't wait to see the end product and get your impressions of it :)

Edit: Note to self, get cracking on the Lifan CT Stew!

[gloud]

Thanks I am happy with how it is coming out, Once I get the new larger headlight mounted, and some more of the wiring done I will be able to do the real work, Cleaning and rebuilding the running gear and paint then reassemble.

I am waiting on the Vapor instrument cluster, and I intend to make a custom Aluminum Dash with the indicator lights and mount the Ignition key in it too.

I will have to modify my clutch perch to take a switch for the start interlock.
I would hate to have it take off on me if I (or more likely someone else) started it in gear. I want to keep the stock hand controls. So that will be a little challenge. (I cheat as I have a small milling machine. LOL)

[FastDoc]

Glad you've got it running!

[Weldangrind]

Please show us the milling machine! :D Congrats on getting it running.

[SpudRider]

Glad you've got it running!
X2! :D

Spud :)

[gloud]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XClPokebBmM&feature=plcp&context=C32e79c9UDOEgsToPDskIndkQ9SdCVarVmu_ADNrfC

Here is a quick vid I shot while working on the wiring this am. Started on the second crank, Working on the idle still. I figured out the Blinkers (they work!) and headlight this am. The headlight is 12v AC should work with my 12V headlight I purchased for it. Not sure how to embed.

[Weldangrind]

Awesome! Does it seem to hang when you rev it up? If so, you might have a vacuum leak. Maybe a clamp is loose.

[gloud]

I am still messing around with the low speed screw, And the air filter isn't oiled yet either. (actually I am likely going to go with the one you posted in another thread)

Next time I have it running I am going to go through and check for vac leaks. it does settle down some after I rev it. I was having a problem with it stalling after 20-30 secs on idle. I also need to swap in a NGK plug (which is on my messy bench. LOL)

I had it running just to figure out the headlight wiring and grabbed my Iphone out as an afterthought.

I will get Pics of the Mill this weekend, nothing special, a HF mini-mill, but I Have done a bunch of mods on it so it is useful on steel too. (when I first got it you could only cut a few thou at a wack) I did a belt drive conversion, power cross feed, and taller column along with beefing it up so less chatter. I am limited in room, so I went with the MM. (I have as much in the HF mill as I would have with a full size bridgeport If I got a deal on it, But I have NO room. )

[Weldangrind]

Looking forward to it! I have a 50's BP as wallpaper on my Blackberry. I'd give one much love.

[gloud]

https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/mill.JPG
Here ya go Weld, No progress other than acquiring the connectors and waiting for the Vapor which should be here in the next day or so.[/img]

Modifications are Belt drive ( the stock gears are Ear splintingly noisy.) Now you can just hear the motor run. Taller column (so I can fir bigger items to be milled) The drive unit on the left of the bed, (just a nice to have when you are milling long Items, it comes out much nicer) Not shown and still not hooked up is a Digital Readout unit (Jadro) I boult from a kit. I also pulled the stock spring for the headstock and have a lead weight as a counter balance.

It is a Harbor Freight mini mill (available from other vendors as well. )

Once I get a full size mill I will keep it for the small work I do a lot of the time.

[Weldangrind]

Thanks for the pic; that's the unit I visualized. The same mill is available at Princess Auto in Canada. Do you find excessive lash?

I can appreciate the need to install a taller column; how did you accomplish that? Did you use a column from a drill press?

Did you find a mill-specific belt drive for the motor? Did you retain the same ratio?

I have a circa 1950 Atlas lathe, and I'd like to complement it with a small mill like yours. Maybe I'll grab one at HF if they go on sale.

[gloud]

http://www.littlemachineshop.com/Products/products.php
For mini mill Porn.. you can make your own belt drive or just buy it like I did. the column is made for the mill and available at the above website.

The longer column mod is a longer z axis rack, and I had to remove the spring that provides the head tension. thus the Counterwieght. (Been awhile since I had done that mod. LOL I got another few inches out movement out of the head that way.

There is back lash on 2 of the 3 Axis, But it is adjustable. the Vertical (Z) is negated for the most part by the counter weight, and you just have to be aware of it. I did work on the ways some, but they where ok. The backlash is the big reason I am going to DRO then if anything moves you know.

I have a 50's Logan 10" Lathe myself.

I did the internal mods to my 1919a4 with this mill. (definitely glad I had done the mods..) And that was milling hardened gun steel. Worked fine within it limits. works great for aluminum, and If I ever come up with the coin for a decent boring bar set up and hones I can do my own cylinder boring on smaller engines.

For the space limited like you and I these are very usable tools when the Limitations and problems with them are addressed. Beats the heck out of a moto-tool and files.

[Weldangrind]

Thanks for the link. That reminds me to check Grizzly for stuff like that as well. http://www.grizzly.com/

If you can work with hardened steel, I presume you'll have no trouble with mild steel, whether cold or hot rolled.

Like you, I'd like to get into boring one day. I'd also like to learn flycutting, along with lots of other stuff. I've only just aquired my lathe, and all I've done so far is buy a quick change tool post for it.

I've hijacked your thread more than I should have. :lol: Looking forward to more bike updates.

[gloud]

Jeeze Weld a Mod may get after you lol.. It does mild steel fine, I had to use the right cutters for the hardened stuff. No problem on the hijack.

Back on topic the vapor is supposed to be here today and I ordered some Connectors from Vintage connections. So I will have decent connectors and shielded. So back to fab and wiring this weekend. and then I hope for a test ride to see where I am at before I tear it all down for paint.

[FastDoc]

Please let us know all about the Vapor installation. If/when I D/S the YZ I'd like to fit a Vapor.

[gloud]

received the Vapor last night, Looks good but the speedo pickup they sent I can't figure out how they want me to mount. (and honestly I don't like the way it will look if I mount it the way I can think of. I have an email into them and in the meantime I ordered a Acewell Direct plug in to a honda XR pickup and I am going to try that. ( they are the competitor to Trailready. vapor)
I am hoping it will be compatible, but I am worried about the calibration. for 20.00 I figured I would try and it is a factory looking install then.

I found some docs on the sensor ( the one from acewell ) and it uses a hall effect sensor, so I don't think it will be compatible with the Vapor...

[FastDoc]

Is your TrailTech kit made for your bike or are you adapting one?

[gloud]

It is a generic one for an aircooled, drum brake bike like the xr200. they tech dept got back to me with a picture of how to mount it not overly happy with it but I will do it like they say.
I will post up a pic once I get it mounted. I was just hoping for a cleaner installation. everything else seems fine.

[gloud]

Got a day in the shop sunday. did some work on the controls and building a mount for the vapor and other controls.https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/vap1.JPG
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/vap2.JPG

[FastDoc]

Awesome looking work. Save the template maybe I'll hire you to make me one for the YZ! :wink:

[Weldangrind]

That's a really nice piece of craftsmanship! Do you plan to enclose the backside of the mount? Have you considered using studs to attach the front handlebar clamps, and then nuts to attach the new mount? That makes your mount removable without loosening the clamp bolts, and the mount doesn't bear directly on the clamp. Just a thought.

[gloud]

I am happy with it so far. I am debating enclosing the back, I plan on a small fairing so it wouldn't need it. I think I still have the template LOL .
As for the studs possibly. At the least I will likely mill the top of the clamp flat so it sits properly. I got to use my mill to open up the hole underneath the Vapor Instad of hacking it with a file.

I was mostly going for simple, and at the least will build a pigtail off the indicator lights and tie all the wiring to the plate. For the finish I used a palm sander and just made it uniform. I will likely hit it with clear coat when I Finish the tins. (the tank and sidecovers are done just waiting on CC. )

We are fullon in riding weather here, (cool in the am but I have gear) so I am still riding the Yam DT175 as a daily rider but really want the XL on the road. I hope for a test ride this weekend to check my gearing.

[SpudRider]

You did a beautiful job on the TT Vapor mount! Thanks for sharing the photos. :)

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

The hole underneath the Vapor is an excellent solution for the cables. Did you make the mount out of aluminum?

[gloud]

Yea it was an unknown aluminum alloy (soft) from an old sign I had. It is about 3/16th thick. It was nasty before I hit it with a sander. the top two outside lights are going to be the turn indicators, the center blue for high beam and the green on down by the choke (to the left) is for the Neutral indicator. I gave myself a little extra room in case I want to add things to it.

Next time I have it off I will take a pic of the hole and post it.

[MICRider]

That dash looks sweet! I can't wait to see the whole bike together :D

[gloud]

https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/willys/topmount.JPG
Fabbed the new top mount for the engine.
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/willys/xlheadl.JPG
Mounted the new headlight bucket. (12V 7" Vs the stock 6v 5") and have all the wiring done except for the new Vapor.
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/willys/xlheadlight.JPG
another shot of the headlight.

I should have the bike ready for the road test and then tear down and paint this next weekend. I spent way too much time rebuilding the rear turn signals. (the wires in the lights where bad, and the ground wires for the mounts where too. )

Once I test it I will be doing a full teardown new bearings, Paint and new cables. Getting there.

[FastDoc]

Excellent work. 8)

Amazing how much wiring can go into a simple XR. My Gold Wing must have 50 pounds of wiring!

[Weldangrind]

Nice work on the top mount and headlight mount. Your dash inspired me to do something similar, and member Sucksqueezebangblow dropped by and whipped up a quick sheetmetal dash like yours. It's temporary until my speedometer arrives, but it'll do nicely.

[gloud]

Well I am reading your TW200 work regularly also. Good stuff.
Nothing like bringing bikes back from the "dead" eh?

Nice work on the top mount and headlight mount. Your dash inspired me to do something similar, and member Sucksqueezebangblow dropped by and whipped up a quick sheetmetal dash like yours. It's temporary until my speedometer arrives, but it'll do nicely.

[Weldangrind]

Thanks! I hope to have some updates soon.

[gloud]

Got 2 half days of work in on it this weekend, 99% of the wiring is done,
got the chain on, (had to clearance the front sprocket guard and run the wiring a different way due to the 520 sprocket. )
Got the vapor most of the way hooked up. And put the seat back on and ran the repair tank (I still need to clear coat the tank and sidepanels. so do not want gas in the tank yet) threw the plate on (A VT one as I had to reg it there so I can then get a title in ma. ) and took it for a ride.

Top speed is 65, (Can probably squeeze 70 if I tried) and everything runs good. good torque and power. (better than the stock 175 ) I am going to keep an eye out for a smaller rear sprocket for a little more top end. )

I did an oil change yesterday and this am a valve adjustment.

Here is a quick walk around vid, I was trying to show the vapor but had some glare.
http://youtu.be/IVYD-LCPQDU

Now just clean up paint add my other new parts (cables, tires, brakes ) and then it will be done.

[FastDoc]

Terrific news. Sounds like it's pretty fast too!

[Weldangrind]

Well done! You're nearly there.

[gloud]

Not much to add, I have it fully torn down and discovered the swingarm bushing/metal insert where worn, luckily my parts bike ones where like new so swap the swingarms. I got all the rust and paint off the swingarm with electrolysis. Works a treat. http://www.altelco.net/~jacil/clay/motorcycle/KElecSetup.html
for more info. The best part is no mess and it works while I am at the day job. Hope to get the rest of the frame painted and maybe start reassembly this weekend.

[Weldangrind]

Thanks for the link. That's the very method I used to remove rust from the exhaust header of an '81 XL250S: http://www.chinariders.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=13078&start=0

[gloud]

Got the thing painted and going back together. (no pics yet sorry)
went to the DOT (RMV) and swapped the plates from the yam and got my title, then went to get the OHV reg if I want to go offroad. they shut me down with the excuse of your Vin is too short (they want 17 characters and the XL is only 12) so now the fight begins... I got high res pics of all the numbers went to the local honda dealer and copied the vin info on the XL from their manual, and I have an email into the headquarters to see if I can just stick Honda in front of the number. I do SO love this state.

but in other news I sold the DT175 and got a few side jobs so the few remaining parts for the XL have been ordered. (mirrors, 35 tooth rear sprocket, and a few other small items. I hope to have it ready for a ride to work next week.

[SpudRider]

Good work, Gloud! :D Indeed, you've got to love the bureaucrats! :roll:

Spud :)

[FastDoc]

Man the licensing part can be a terrible PIA in some places sometimes, even a complete roadblock. I hope it goes well with you. Some states are easy. I think a guy can plate a donkey or a riding mower in Idaho. Some places are hard. MA and NJ come to mind. WA is pretty OK.

You need off road AND on road registration there? Here if you have a plate you're automatically good to go everywhere.

[SpudRider]

Man the licensing part can be a terrible PIA in some places sometimes, even a complete roadblock. I hope it goes well with you. Some states are easy. I think a guy can plate a donkey or a riding mower in Idaho. ...
Indeed, one of my neighbors has a plated donkey, and another has a plated lawnmower. ;)

Spud :lol:

[FastDoc]

Plated donkeys on the street are well documented in the Gospels.

Hosanna in the highest!

[gloud]

They in the last 2 years changed it so we have to have 2 registrations.
the hold up for the fish and game is the 12 dig number, but before 1981 they could be anything from 12 to 17. I found some documentation on that on the nhtsa web site so another piece of paper on my pile. I have to drive 45 mins to this office too. so I am trying to get it approved BEFORE I go back.

I have been emailing headquarters and sent the NHTSA web link. Hey I can ride it on the road anyway.

And yes I have 12 more years to max out my state retirement and I am heading to Texas most likely after that. Mass is SUCH a PINTA. This is the joy of trying to be legal.

[Weldangrind]

Good for you for taking the high road. :)

I had a little trouble registering the TS250 for the same reason, but then the owner of the agency walked over and said (to the clerk) "Oh, you just do this..." Then he went clickety click on the keyboard and fixed it. God bless him; he's the reason I keep going to that office.

I'll wait right here for pics.

[gloud]

Took some quick pics this am, to show the two part clear coat from a rattle can, (the paint is dry in the pics... ) It is a true two part and you need to treat it as such (good respirator etc) While pricey per can (18.00 plus shipping) it is much cheaper than buying the smallest amount from a paint shop to shoot with a gun. (which I also have)

http://www.repaintsupply.com/pd_2_part_2k_aerosol.cfm
On to the pics,
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/tank.JPG
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/xlassy.JPG
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/fender.JPG

[Weldangrind]

Wow! Those stripes are perfectly symmetrical, and the colour really pops. Have you used that 2K clear before? Does it resist fuel well?

Thanks for the link.

[gloud]

I had not used the 2K before but read great things about it. It is Fuel proof.
I did all the painting, all my years building scale RC planes for customers paint off lol..
(I used to do it as a side line.)
I do a little repair work on the side now and will be expanding hopefully in the next few months. Gotta get all legal like first. I will be using the xl as advertisement along with being a daily rider.

I am Very happy with the paint and decals.

Oh and Weld? I used your idea of some Chinabike wide pegs for the XL the Lifan ones are just about bolt on. I had to grind a little off the back so they sit right but Much nicer than the stock tiny ones.

[Weldangrind]

Glad to hear that. I got really lucky with the TW; the wide pegs fell into place for me (once I pounded the original mounts into something recognizable).

[SpudRider]

That's a beautiful paint job! Thanks for sharing the photos. :)

Spud :)

[gloud]

Thanks it was a bit of a pain But I want it to "Look" stock LOL... (except for the electric start Lifan motor.. ) I hope to get the final assembled pics up this weekend, but I have had 3 side jobs show up this week already! Can always use the $$ so I take them and my work suffers. Oh well who needs sleep. (I do I can't burn the midnight oil like I used to.) but it pays for the toys.

[FastDoc]

Beautiful and VERY professional looking!

Painting is an art as well as a science. I'm only good at science... :roll:

[gloud]

Well the assembly continues, almost done with the electrical, just need to do the high beam indicator and the neutral ind.
And I ran into a snag, Pulled the old front tire off and the front rim is bent to heck. pulled the spare one out of storage and it was almost as bad.
Drat. Onto Ebay and found a NOS one from a CR125 so that is on the way.

So by the end of today I should have a unicycle done and ready to lace up the front when it arrives. (and yes I will take pics today, yesterday was all stuff you saw before. LOL )

[MICRider]

Wow, the bike is looking good! I can't wait to see it back in one piece, albeit without a front wheel! I really like that Spraymax system, I wonder if you can buy it in Canada anywhere? :D

[Weldangrind]

So by the end of today I should have a unicycle done...

That's cool! May we see the unicycle as well? Did you build it?

[gloud]

The unicycle is the XL LOL...
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/xlassem.JPG
In final assembly form minus the front end...

https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/xlwhee.JPG
And the reason it is a unicycle...

I am extremely happy with how it is coming out.

[katoranger]

That is a great idea with the zip ties on the spokes.

[gloud]

Yea I have done it the last few I had apart much quicker and easier to reassemble. After that pic I took the rusted spokes out and cleaned them to bare metal. they are going to be painted silver till I replace them this winter. (or I get them re-plated.) I did it to my DT175 and they stayed rust free evan with some winter riding this year.

As the new front rim I have on the way is Gold I will be replacing the rear rim eventually to match. but funds dictate doing one now.

[Weldangrind]

X2 on the zip ties. I'm going to try that.

Best unicycle I've ever seen.

[gloud]

New Rim goodness.. Ahhh. still have to finish truing it, But received it last night and finished up the vespa I was doing repairs on so I could have some quality time with my hub and new rim this am before work.
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/rim1.JPG
I cut the zip ties as I went and it went together nicely. I have done maybe a dozen rims in my lifetime and they are just getting easier.

[Weldangrind]

Do you plan to remove the gold anodized finish?

[gloud]

No I am just going to get a matching rear rim. Won't look stock but will be less maint with the anodizing. (and more than a few of my MX bikes had gold rims. My Maico 490 for example. (I really miss that bike, (power wise) but starting it was a real bother. It kicked back like a mule. I may try to find it this year.)

[Weldangrind]

if you don't mind a mild hijack, I have some questions on that topic. Son of Weldangrind and I are planning a Supermoto build, and we have a set of USD forks with a 17" front rim, but it's too narrow for our liking. If we used your zip tie trick, do you think we'd be able to transplant the existing spokes to a slightly wider 17" rim? Do we worry about spoke count only, or is there a potential for dissimilar spoke nipple angles? Thank you.

[gloud]

The angle might be off a little. Mine thankfully was close enough. But the quality of the replacement rim was only OK, I was less than impressed with the weld seam and Final machine work on the rim. I was able to get it trued but with a decent quality rim the trueing would have been much quicker.
As such I may just paint the rim silver and not replace the rear rim.

If you are going to use a donor rim from a already laced wheel try to match the spoke pattern as close as possible.

[Weldangrind]

Thanks for the tips. I'll be sure to start a thread for the project and photo-document everything.

[gloud]

http://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/xlfin.JPG
http://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/xlfin2.JPG

The only thing I had to tweak was the shifter (extend it and move it out from the case more) and the rear brake pedal so it would clear the pipe.
I added my $20.00 windshield I picked up at a swap meet this spring and Rode it for the first time with the tank on lol..

Overall very happy, it rides and handles better than it did on the test rides,
(a true front wheel and new tires and serviced forks help on that front.)
the gearing is about right, I dropped the rear sprocket down to a 45 tooth
with a 16 front I think and it is happy putting along at 50 with low revs.

After I shot these pics I adapted an old rear rack I had around to fir the XL. (still get to mount that today.) So I get to go back to commuting with the bike as I sold my Yamaha two weeks ago.

[FastDoc]

WOW! :P

Outstanding work. The Chinamotor looks right at home in there! With the extra few cc's I bet it will perform just like it did whwn it was new. I'd like for Little Sweetie, my 1972 CB175, to meet your XL! :D

[Weldangrind]

Really impressive work! Thanks for the pics. Please show us the new rack, once it's installed.

[gloud]

Thanks guys, See Doc you are not the only overly anal person in the shop lol..

I will get some pics of the adapted rack it was originally for my old Yam R5B (earlier RD350) and I have had it hanging on the old shop (On mom's property) Wall. Glad I kept it as it saved me fab time from building a whole new one. I spray painted it till I get the Powder coating setup I am lusting after..

Off to do some test riding (Yea thats the ticket LOL)

[katoranger]

Looks great. Another old Honda saved by China power.

[gloud]

http://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/rac.jpg
http://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/rack.jpg

I cut 4.5" out of the front of the rack and moved the rear mounts.

Took a 45 mile test ride and it ran well. came home and did an oil change and swapped in synthetic and topped up the tank with 93 octane. that really smoothed out the engine on the top end (I had regular in it before and it pinged a little). And it improved the shifting also.

I also had to swap out the new aftermarket front brake pads (drum brakes) as they where horrible. I swapped back in the OEM ones after cleaning them up and scuffing the drum up again, then lubed the cable (New OEM ).

Got it to stop decent (almost able to lock the front. ) I am going to find some OEM rear shoes as I suspect they will also work better.

One other thing I need to change is the color of the instrument cluster the aluminum reflects way too much sun. so it is going to be painted black.

[Weldangrind]

That rack looks right at home. What brand of aftermarket brake shoes were they? I can't remember if I asked you before, but where did you get those rear shocks? What brand of powder coating setup are you after?

[SpudRider]

The entire bike looks beautiful! :D You did a good job on the luggage rack. ;)

Spud :)

[davidsonsgccc]

that bike looks sweet. it makes me want to redo my cb125 again.

[gloud]

SOK brakes. Horrible I think I could have stopped it better using an old leather belt glued to the shoes. I got them from Ebay. OEM were twice as expensive but I guess I should have known better. I still need to replace the rear and will go OEM Honda. I know they work.

I have heard good things about the powder gun from Eastwood so I will likely get their kit. To start off with I will get an old oven But I would like to build an oven big enough for a frame. (I have seen plans online Using oven elements for heat) But that is down the road.

The shocks are ebay specials, RFY (china) They actually work very well and I got them for 90 shipped. (scratch and dent sale they normally go for 110.00 shipped. ) The xl uses the same size as an RD350. I knew about them and was willing to try them as an RD I fixed last year for a guy had them and they rode decent. (Not as nice as Works shocks but they arn't 500.00 either) they are rebuildable also. (Important for guys like you and me. )

Had a great ride to work, Only issue was very minor, I need to adjust the idle mix. When I sit idling for a few mins it revs up a little. (lean I think)
Other than that it worked great.

[FastDoc]

I think your work is lovely.

These old bikes have such charm to them.

Like I said I get more compliments on Little Sweetie than I do on any other bike, including the Gold Wing. I'm sure you and your XL 175/200 will also garner many compliments and bring smiles and happy memories to many people.

[Weldangrind]

SOK brakes. Horrible I think I could have stopped it better using an old leather belt glued to the shoes. I got them from Ebay. OEM were twice as expensive but I guess I should have known better. I still need to replace the rear and will go OEM Honda. I know they work.

I have heard good things about the powder gun from Eastwood so I will likely get their kit. To start off with I will get an old oven But I would like to build an oven big enough for a frame. (I have seen plans online Using oven elements for heat) But that is down the road.

The shocks are ebay specials, RFY (china) They actually work very well and I got them for 90 shipped. (scratch and dent sale they normally go for 110.00 shipped. ) The xl uses the same size as an RD350. I knew about them and was willing to try them as an RD I fixed last year for a guy had them and they rode decent. (Not as nice as Works shocks but they arn't 500.00 either) they are rebuildable also. (Important for guys like you and me. )

Had a great ride to work, Only issue was very minor, I need to adjust the idle mix. When I sit idling for a few mins it revs up a little. (lean I think)
Other than that it worked great.

Thanks for the heads-up on SOK brakes. When you said "I could have stopped it better using an old leather belt glued to the shoes", I had visions of Fred Flintstone. :lol:

I've also heard good things about the Eastwood kit, and a guy on a TW forum used an old oven that got free on CL (due to a cracked top). My buddy and I considered a kit like that, but I'd also like to have an oven large enough for a frame. Please point to the link that has oven plans.

Do you have a seller's name for the RFY shocks?

I'd be inclined to think that the slow jet is a little small; what size are you running now?

[gloud]

ophir4u is the ebay seller for the shocks.

Yea the SOK brakes where THAT bad. (like yikes. with both brakes It would stop very slowly. the rear where stopping better than the front.)

I saw the info on the bigger oven in ADV and Will see if I can re-find it.



As for the jet I don't remember the size, I will try the air screw as I adjusted it when in the yard. (and it was under 50 Deg F this am that could be the bigger issue here. )

Thanks for the info.
http://www.powdercoatoven.4t.com/ for one type.
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=593041&highlight=ct70&page=2 go down the page for his design.

[Weldangrind]

A too-small slow jet will be more obvious in cooler weather. Did it take awhile to warm up?

[gloud]

Yea it is cold blooded. I guess I will have to yank the carb when I get a chance and see where I am at.

[SpudRider]

Please tell us more about how you acquired the shock absorber. :)

P.S. If the engine idles much higher when hot, the pilot mixture screw (PMS) might be set too rich.

Spud :)

[gloud]

I posted the sellers ebay name in the other post. For the cost they are decent, time will tell how they hold up.

Hot it idles fine just after a min or so the Rpms pick up. I rev the engine and it settles back down for the same amount of time. I will see what it does on the ride home tonight. So yes I guess it could be rich.

[SpudRider]

I didn't realize there was another page of posts until after I made my last post. ;) Boy, you guys get on a roll, and post away like crazy some times! :lol: I'm very surprised you caught me Gloud! You posted just two minutes after I did, before I could delete my question! :lol:

Thanks for the links on the shocks. :) The power coating oven looks like a fun project! If you decide to build the oven, please do post a thread in our Miscellaneous Forum!

If the bike revs much higher at idle when hot, the pilot mixture screw is probably too rich. Twisting the throttle will drop the idle speed temporarily, but the high idle will quickly return.

Spud :)

[gloud]

I am a computer tech by trade so I am at the Puter all day. So I caught ya, lol. I think I will wander out to the bike with a small screwdriver in hand and adjust the air screw out a little. Thanks

[gloud]

On the trip home it behaved better after the adjustments. But I will tell you it either runs or it don't when you cold start it. It will be running and then just die. (sitting warming up) no sputter or anything.

[Weldangrind]

It still sounds to me like it's struggling to sip fuel from the slow jet. If it's a #20, I'd recommend a #25.

[Weldangrind]

Glenn, I went back to the beginning of this post, and I couldn't find any real detail about your 12v conversion. I'm not specifically interested in that part, but I am looking for info on the stator in your GY-5. I have a 230cc pushrod that is virtually identical, but it lacks the headlight coil. I'm wondering if it's there, but not tapped, because there is one blank terminal on the connector from the stator. Do you happen to have any pics of the stator or the connector? I need to figure out how to connect a headlight to this stator for street use.

BTW, my #25 slow jet reference is only valid if you're using a 30mm Mikuni.

[gloud]

Stock carb now. It isn't enough of a bother for now but I may go to a Mikuni. As it is SO sensitive to the adjustments on the slow adjustment I think you are right.

As to the stator no pics as I have not cracked this engine at all. (surprising for me LOL) I will take a pic of the connector tonight for you.

As I reused the Lifan wiring harness, most of my 12v conversion was replacing bulbs in the xl signals.

[Weldangrind]

It would sure be nice to get ahold of a complete Lifan DS harness. Alas, they're rare birds around here. Thanks for offering to take a pic of the connector.

[gloud]

I didn't have time this am as I had to get the bike inspected. (Passed with compliments from the Harley shop LOL)

[Weldangrind]

Glad to hear it passed! Did they enquire about the China motor?

[gloud]

Not a peep. They where amazed at how clean it was. I told them thanks and I had been busy all winter on it. (well the last 3 months. ) I looks so factory why should I tell them otherwise. (this is the Best swap I have done in the many I have hacked together. )

I guess I got something out of watching American chopper before they pulled all the drama crap. (the full build, (I added test ride in here)tear down for paint and then final assembly. I just used to cram the motors in and say good enough LOL)

I am getting used to the High first gear (the only thing I wasn't keen on) so I don't think I will swap back to the 38 tooth rear like I was thinking. It cruses so smoothly at 50 it isn't funny. Had a nice (overcast) ride into work this am.

One mod I am going to do is raise the bars and I have to paint the instrument cluster. (the silver is blinding ) I am going to add a 12v electrical connecter to the dash while I have it apart. (for GPS /Cell charging etc.)

[Weldangrind]

I bought two early seasons of American Chopper for that very reason. They still had drama, but it wasn't central to the format. I learned a lot from the process. My favourite build is the Dixie Chopper. :lol: That says a bunch about me right there.

How do you intend to raise the bars?

[gloud]

Raising the bars- I was looking at using a spare set of clamps flipped over and then using longer bolts. But I am not sure if it will get them high enough.
it is supposed to be rainy on sat so I may play around then. worse comes to worse I play with the mill. I am reaching forward a little right now and that is not good for my back or shoulder.

I need to paint the instrument plate anyway. so the whole mess is coming off this weekend.

[Weldangrind]

I found some cheap ATV high bend aluminum bars for my TW, and that did the trick for me. Perhaps that would be a solution for you as well. The aluminum bars really cut down on vibration.

[Weldangrind]

Don't let me stop you from playing with the mill, though. :D If you do, please share the process.

[gloud]

Ah I like the original chrome bars I have but yes the atv high bars are an option. the only fly in the ointment is my NOS OEM front brake cable which is rather tight already. I will have to look into that before I raise them.

[Weldangrind]

I re-routed a front brake cable for that reason, but I didn't have a headlight in the way. BTW, have you considered a disc brake front end? I installed an '84 XR250R front end onto Son of Weldangrind's '83 XR200R, and it was a perfect fit. The disc brakes are much better than the original drum brakes.

[gloud]

Yes it will have a disc brake eventually. I did a conversion back in the day with my trials bike with stock forks. With the tools I have now it should be easier.

[Weldangrind]

So, you intend to convert the exisiting front end, rather than swap the entire setup?

[gloud]

Well I am trying to find some straight fork tubes before I do it. the ones I have are tweaked and my parts bikes ones are rusted. I have a line on some MT125 ones (same tubes and leading axle) and I may try doing a conversion on them. The stock forks are so low I really need to unless I raise the rear too, which I am afraid would kill the on-road handling.

(other than good sized holes it really is a nice little road rider. Offroad It is Harsh the rear is ok)

Took a nice ride this afternoon as I had the day off and it was just a really nice ride. lots of twistys and hills and the engine just Purred along.

[Weldangrind]

Maybe you can look to other makes / models for a disc brake front end. Perhaps something that has the same diameter and length fork tubes, so you can re-use the stock triples.

[Weldangrind]

As to the stator no pics as I have not cracked this engine at all. (surprising for me LOL) I will take a pic of the connector tonight for you.

Have you had an opportunity to look at the connector yet? No rush, but if you've taken pics, I'd be grateful.

[gloud]

Sorry about the delay I got real busy this weekend. I will do it tonight. you need pics of the connector and the color of wires correct?Â

[Weldangrind]

That's right; yes please.

[gloud]

https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/pwpimages/liwire.JPG
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/pwpimages/liwire1.JPG
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/pwpimages/liwire2.JPG
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/pwpimages/liwire3.JPG

I have an O-scope at home if you need readings off the running engine.

[Weldangrind]

Thanks! That's terrific. :D

An oscilloscope? Really? It might be faster for you to tell us what you don't have. :lol:

It looks like we have the same stator, although the black wire and the blank spot are reversed on my connector. I can't see that makes any difference, because the mating connector would have the appropriate wire in the spot.

If it isn't too much effort, can you tell me how the headlight is powered? It seems to me that there isn't a dedicated headlight coil, so I'm guessing that it's in parallel with the charging circuit, possibly with its own regulator. My stator came from a dirt bike that had no headlight, and all of the stator wires are accounted for. I'm not sure how it's done on a factory China DS.

[gloud]

The headlight is AC12V the tail light is too. the rest of the lights are DC and work when the engine is not running. I can get you the readings tonight if I think of it (I will just do it assigned to wire color. )

I brought a small Oscope home in case I needed it when I was redoing the wiring. Didn't need it but it is still at the shop so I can get the voltages and type for you. (I am in charge of a maint shop at a Computer science dept. )

I do have a ton of stuff crammed into the shop. I hope to either add an edition onto it or a separate building so I have some room. And update some of my higher end tools soon. (as soon as I get the money from mom's estate.)

I wish I lived closer to you guys You all sound like the type I can relate to. not many around these parts anymore.

[Weldangrind]

I don't need as much info as a scope provides. If you can simply tell me which wire goes to where and how the headlight and taillight are wired, that would be great!

[gloud]

Well the scope is nice sometimes as it is easy to use. (dedicated ground so you just have to use the probe. ) I will Mess around and see what I can figure out tonight or tomorrow am. Hopefully the rain will let up some so I can ride to work tomorrow.

[gloud]

http://www.chinese-parts-canada.com/images/wire_diagram_5_wire_system.jpg this looks right..

[Weldangrind]

I presume that's what you used, although the stator colours are different.

I know it's my middle aged eyes, but that schematic is really hard to read, unless I zoom in a lot.

[gloud]

You need to borrow my tri-focals LOL... I was digging around to find a real schematic on the web and this looks mostly correct. notice they use the connection to the voltage regulator for the AC headlight and taillight.
(the yellow wire) and blinkers and brake lights are run from the DC side.

[Weldangrind]

If it isn't too much trouble, I'd still be grateful for your layout. There is certainly no rush.

[gloud]

I'll try to get to it tonight I wasn't feeling too good last night.

[gloud]

Just an update last sunday I went on a dual sport run through the berkshires.
130 miles on the actual run (plus another 80 to get there and back) She ran great and did good on the offroad sections, defiantly need to get taller bars on it but otherwise I am going to leave things as they are. I was photographed everywhere I stopped. I rode most of it with a guy with a xr650L and had no problem keeping up with him even on the pavement sections.
http://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/xlbb.JPG

[FastDoc]

Lovely bike and beautiful country to ride in. I rode mountain bikes in that area years ago and loved it.

That old XL sure is a classy bike. I can see why it gets so much attention. :P

[SpudRider]

You did a superb job restoring the XL185. Please do post more photographs from your ride; your bike looks great! :D

Spud :)

[gloud]

I only have a few more from the start, I was too busy Riding to take many pics. (130 Miles for the run and another 80 travelling to home and to the event.) I was on the bike from 7 till 4:30 My thigh muscles are just now feeling better.

https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/bbb.JPG
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/BBB3.JPG
https://home.comcast.net/~wildweasel07/valmet/bbb2.JPG

Let me know If I should knock them down in size a little.

[FastDoc]

Great pics. Great lookin, large, and eclectic group.

That KLR in th 1st pic is identical to my first. I forget the year. 1992?

[gloud]

there where some big bikes there. I helped pull a kid out with his V-strom who got into a hero section uphill and pulled off in a water break and could not get back out. he was flipping out.

I had to calm him down and we pulled the bike out (Uphill backwards) (I think I did 99% of the pulling) and headed back down the hill. he wouldn't let me ride/move it for him but he was so Flipped out he was not listening to my advice. I met up with him at the gas stop later and he made it back down the rocky wet and steep hill. Everyone else just blasted by. I see it as a Karma thing so don't mind helping out.

there are pics on ADV rider in the northeast local section. (in the berkshire big bike thread.)http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=755308

[SpudRider]

Thank for posting the additional photos! You did a beautiful job restoring your bike. In my opinion, it's the best looking bike in the group! :D

P.S. You were wise to choose a genuine, Chinese copy for your engine. Accept no substitutes. ;)

Spud :lol:

[FastDoc]

A man's gotta know his limitations. There are places a V-Strom does not belong. Anything rougher than a dirt road would be a good guideline to start with!

Roger's KLR does OK, but he's a big guy, a good rider, and does not get freaked out if he falls and the bike gets a little scratched up.

He and I do take that KLR in some pretty rough stuff too! :P

[gloud]

Thanks Spud The funny thing is the more I ride the smoother and better it runs. I am willing to bet the bike I took it out of only had a few hundred miles on it. well worth the $60.00 I have into the engine. (100 for the whole bike and I sold the rolling chassis for 40.00 )


Thank for posting the additional photos! You did a beautiful job restoring your bike. In my opinion, it's the best looking bike in the group! :D

P.S. You were wise to choose a genuine, Chinese copy for your engine. Accept no substitutes. ;)

Spud :lol: