I just received my new, DF/Ice Bear Bobber!

[GonzoX]

OK Im exhausted. Got the bike uncrated. Fit and finish and fenders look very rough but I expect that from a chinese made product. No big deal.

The good:

Bike looks good over all.

Started right up and idled fine.

Everything seems to work so far. Cant test brakes or shifter yet but it did seem to shift fine while idling.

The bad:

Screws and bolts are typical chinese poor metalurgy. Very soft steel and easy to damage. I stripped out the screws for the front brake fluid resivoir so now Im screwed. Im sure I used the corect size screw driver. That is what really chaffes my butt. Those suckers are on there tight. Too tight.

Q: How do I get the stripped screws out?

Changed the oil but after putting in new oil I noticed there was a rubber washer on the ground. Doh! Was that on the drain plug? Im not sure but I do not remember seeing a washer when I dropped the plug to drain it. Could be from something else.

Air filter had a small dent in it. Mostly cosmetic. Not sure if it's worth putting in an RMA for it to the dealer. Opinions?

Q: There is a hole in the frame just forward of the seat. Is this hole an option to move the seat forward an inch? If so that would be great as I am a bit on the short side.

Will eventually ask a lot of questions Im sure.

Will try to upload photos ASAP.

[SpudRider]

Congratulations, Gonzo! I'm glad your bike finally arrived. :D

For future reference, it helps if you hit the screwdriver with a hammer before you try to untighten the screws in the brake master cylinder. ;) I think your best bet now is to carefully drill the heads off the stripped screws. Then you can remove the cap to the master cylinder. After the cap is removed, you should be able to loosen the screws with a pair of vise grips. ;)

The other DF Bobber owners will probably have a definitive answer for you shortly regarding the rubber O-ring. ;)

We eagerly await your photos! :D

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

I'm glad to hear that it runs! That's a good start.

[FastDoc]

Google it. IIRC there is a special screwdriver that is sharp and curved a little for removing stripped out phillips screws.

Sounds like you are off to a good China-start.

Of course we will all disown you if you don't post pictures soom.

[GonzoX]

OK hope this works:

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/GonzoX450/Picture2007.jpg

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/GonzoX450/Picture2006.jpg

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/GonzoX450/Picture2004.jpg

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/GonzoX450/Picture2003.jpg

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/GonzoX450/Picture2000.jpg

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/GonzoX450/Picture2008.jpg

[FastDoc]

Very nice looking machine :P . How hard would it be to remove the tank decals? :roll:

[SpudRider]

You bike looks great! :) Thanks for making the time to capture and post the great photos, Gonzo! We love photos, especially of bikes arriving in the crate. :D

Spud :)

[SpudRider]

I still think your best bet is to carefully drill the heads off the screws holding the cover on the master brake cylinder. ;)

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

Sweet bike! I love eveything about the design, including the sprung seat. I think that an Easy-out would remove those screws. If not, then drilling the heads (like Spud says) would do the trick.

[FastDoc]

By the way an impact screwdriver may still do the trick.

I like to have at least one Snap-on screwdriver for cases like this.

[Weldangrind]

I use a small ratchet screwdriver for these purposes. It's much easier to apply downforce and turn if you have a lever.

[SpudRider]

Upon further reflection, I agree with my fellow moderators. ;) If you have a Harbor Freight store nearby, buy either an impact screwdriver, and/or a screw extractor set. ;)

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-screw-extractor-set-40349.html
http://www.harborfreight.com/impact-screwdriver-set-with-case-37530.html

I own both these tools, and have had occasion to use them on my motorcycles. These tools work well, and are certainly worth the modest price required to add them to your tool chest. :)

Spud :)

[SpudRider]

Incidentally, both the tools I mentioned are currently on sale. ;)

Spud :)

[GonzoX]

Well I thought there was zero break fluid in there but I was wrong. Once I started messing with it, the breaks started working. It was very weak and spongy at first so I though it was empty of brake fluid. It wasnt. I guess I still need to open it though to bleed the brakes right?

I think I also need to get some chain oil. Will check auto parts store for that.

I did get a tap-dye screw extractor kit but Im not sure its the right size.
What exactly is an impact screw driver? Guess Ill check with auto parts place tomorrow for that. Probably too late for the impact tool though as it is prety stripped out right now. Hard to tell from the photo though.

I still need to take my course. Man I should have taken care of that but I wanted to wait in case I had to cancel my order. Now that my bike is here I am aching to ride it. Monday I will get insurace set up and call killermotorsports with my vin number to get temporary plates.

My Fiancee is worried that she will see less and less of me now LOL. She may have a point. :lol:

[SpudRider]

Just pressing and releasing the front brake lever might fix the situation. Whenever I remove the front wheel, I need to press the brake lever a few times to get the piston to seat on the brake pads. ;) However, if you need to bleed the brake lines, I suggest you read the following thread. ;)

http://chinariders.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=9814

Rather than merely bleed the brake lines, I suggest you change the brake fluid. It doesn't take much longer to change the brake fluid, and who knows what kind of brake fluid the factory installed in China? :roll:

Instead of buying chain lube, I suggest you get some 90W gear oil, or some chainsaw, bar and chain oil. Since you are riding on the street, these products will work very well, and will cost much less than commercial chain lube. ;)

P.S. Your fiancee is very wise, and probably correct! :lol:

Spud :)

[FastDoc]

My Fiancee is worried that she will see less and less of me now LOL. She may have a point.

Ya think? :lol:

One seat....

See you later honey! Love you! :P

[Weldangrind]

If the brakes aren't spongy after you pump the lever a few times, it'll likely be fine as is. That will give you time to research an impact.

I recommend Maxima Chain Wax; it's around $12.00 per can where I live, but it lasts a long time. The benefit to it is that it doesn't fling off onto your jacket.

[SpudRider]

Good call on the chain wax, Weld. ;) I didn't notice the fully exposed, drive chain. :roll: That drive chain looks very tight by the way; you need about 1-1/2" of slack in the drive chain, or you risk damaging the countershaft sprocket. 8O

You might also try DuPont Teflon Multi-Use Lubricant, available at most Lowes stores. ;)

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/036121/036121191570xl.jpg

http://www.lowes.com/pd_213197-39963-D00110101_0__?productId=1059839&Ntt=dupont+teflon+multi-pupose&pl=1&currentURL=%2Fpl__0__s%3FNtt%3Ddupont%2Bteflon%2Bm ulti-pupose&facetInfo=

I've used this product, and it's great! :D

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

I've never tried Tefflon lube on cables, but I know that Chain Wax is very effective on cables, in addition to chains.

BTW, you can usually find Chain Wax at any bike shop.

[SpudRider]

I'm sure the Maxima chain wax is excellent. :) Many motorcyclists are using the Dupont Teflon lubricant with great results. ;)

http://www.webbikeworld.com/t2/motorcycle-chain-lube/dupont-teflon-chain-lube.htm

Spud :)

[katoranger]

By the way an impact screwdriver may still do the trick.

I like to have at least one Snap-on screwdriver for cases like this.

I would try it too. Most auto parts stores or sears sell them. It is a great tool to have.

[GonzoX]

Thanks Guys,

I will check into the chain slack. I am a total MC noob unfortunately. I have sooooo much to learn. LOL.

Seems like a good simple bike to learn on.

[katoranger]

You will get a crash course here.

[SpudRider]

X2. ;) You came to the right place, Gonzo. :)

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

X2. ;) You came to the right place, Gonzo. :)

Spud :)

There haven't been many incidents of flaming newbies here, either. We all started somewhere. Bring on the questions.

[GonzoX]

OK have noob questions:

1)Somebody told me that after break in I should use synthetic oil and that would make shifting a lot smoother. True or not? What would make it shift smoother.

2)I can find nuetral fine when the engins is off. While running with clutch not engaged though it is really hard to find nuetral. Is this normal?

I can not ride the bike yet because I still have to get my M license and I am still waiting on the tags.

3)The transmission seems to only go from N to 1st and 2nd gear. I can not get it in 3rd gear or beyond while engine is off or even while idling. Its like its not even there. Is that normal? Do I have to be actually riding the bike before I can find gears 3-5?

4)Owners manual says to get M oil specifically designed for wet clutch engines. Did I buy the right oil?
I bought Lucas high performance semi synthetic 10w-40 JASO MA-2motorcycle oil. It says its OK for wet clutch applications. I was in a hurry when I bought it. Is it OK?

[FastDoc]

[quote="GonzoX"]OK have noob questions:

1)Somebody told me that after break in I should use synthetic oil and that would make shifting a lot smoother. True or not? What would make it shift smoother.

A little controversy here but in general synthetic oil is fine. Whether there is a practical advantage versus regular oil changes with conventional oil is controversial.

2)I can find nuetral fine when the engins is off. While running with clutch not engaged though it is really hard to find nuetral. Is this normal?

Might be normal. Might be the oil. Might be the clutch cable lubrication or adjustment. In any event should be fine. Change the oil, lube and adjust the cable.

I can not ride the bike yet because I still have to get my M license and I am still waiting on the tags.

I recommend a MSF class.

3)The transmission seems to only go from N to 1st and 2nd gear. I can not get it in 3rd gear or beyond while engine is off or even while idling. Its like its not even there. Is that normal? Do I have to be actually riding the bike before I can find gears 3-5?

Normal and usually yes.

4)Owners manual says to get M oil specifically designed for wet clutch engines. Did I buy the right oil?
I bought Lucas high performance semi synthetic 10w-40 JASO MA-2motorcycle oil. It says its OK for wet clutch applications. I was in a hurry when I bought it. Is it OK?

Your oil is fine. Many here use Walmart Shell Rotella 15-50 with good results.

Your homework assignment.

Read all the content on Dan's website:

www.dansmc.com.

[GonzoX]

Thanks FastDoc,

Transmission doesnt have a cable. Its a rod. It has an adjustment nut on each end but that only adjusts the possition of the pedal up or down from what I can see.

And yes I am taking the MFS class 11-13May.

Your comment about the shifting with engine off gave me piece of mind. Was worried about that so thanks again. Once I get temporary tags I will let my brother test it out for me on the road.

I called killermotorsports this morning to get the temp tags emailed to me.
Not sure how long this takes but I did not get it today. I guess even temp tags take a while?

Thanks again.

[GonzoX]

Oh one more thing. My understanding is that the engine oil also acts as the transmission oil right? That's why you use wet clutch oil correct?

I know that may sound a bit dumb but I am really a total motorcycle noob here.

[FastDoc]

Oh one more thing. My understanding is that the engine oil also acts as the transmission oil right? That's why you use wet clutch oil correct?

I know that may sound a bit dumb but I am really a total motorcycle noob here.

Not dumb at all. None of us were born knowing this stuff.

Yes to your question.

The lubrication and adjustment I was refering to is the clutch cable, you are refrencing the shifter linkage.

You are being very wise in your approach to beginning motorcycling.

[katoranger]

Get yourself in the MSF course. http://www.msf-usa.org

[SpudRider]

Oh one more thing. My understanding is that the engine oil also acts as the transmission oil right? That's why you use wet clutch oil correct?

I know that may sound a bit dumb but I am really a total motorcycle noob here.
That's correct; you want to avoid "energy conserving" motor oils which are too slippery for your clutch to function properly.

Your questions are excellent, and we welcome them. :) You came to the right place, Gonzo. Unlike most internet forums, we pride ourselves in maintaining a polite, helpful atmosphere at China Riders. :)

Spud :)

[SpudRider]

Here's another homework assignment. ;) If you really want to know about engine oil for your motorcycle, read the following articles. :)

http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Consumables.html
http://www.calsci.com/motorcycleinfo/Oils1.html

I use 15W/40, diesel motor oil in all my motorcycles. I was running Shell, Rotella, T-6, Synthetic motor oil for quite a while in my Zong. I now use 15W/40 motor oil in all my motorcycles. ;) My Zongshen 200GY-2 now has over 45,000 miles on the odometer, so I guess my choice of motor oil hasn't hurt the engine. :)

Spud :)

[GonzoX]

Oh the clutch cable. Didnt even think of that. I do know it seems to work fine since the clutch is free of any friction once I depress it. But I will check it again to see if it needs adjustment. TY.

I do remember somebody at work suggested I use diesel commercial motor oil as well. Will remember this once I break the bike in.

[Weldangrind]

The cables are notoriously dry from the factory. Buy yourself a cable luber like this one from Motorcycle Superstore: Motion Pro Cable Luber (http://www.motorcycle-superstore.com/2/9/205/4838/ITEM/Motion-Pro-Cable-Luber.aspx?WT.ac=RichAutoComplete) Use whatever aerosol lube you wish that has a straw; you'll need the straw for the luber. Like I shared with you before, I like Maxima Chain Wax for cables and chains.

[Weldangrind]

And yes I am taking the MFS class 11-13May.

Excellent news. That's a good decision.

[SpudRider]

And yes I am taking the MFS class 11-13May.

Excellent news. That's a good decision.
X2; taking the MSF class is one of the best decisions you will ever make. ;)

Spud :)

[dsrt4]

Harbor freight had cable lubers on sale for $3 the last time i was in there.

Btw.....neat bike!

[GonzoX]

OK I have a confession to make.

I still need to take the class next weekend and I do not have an M designation on my class C lic. But I could not stand it any longer.
I am sure some of you will chew me out for this but at least Im being honest.

I RODE MY BIKE! OMG I feel like a teenager again. No wonder middle aged men buy these damn things!

I only rode around the block of my neighborhood. Low traffic and I thought I was pretty safe. I did get insurance on it. Only cost me $77.

A few notes: Manual is completely wrong about shifting. It says one up for 1st and four down for the rest of the gears. The transmission is the complete opposit on mine. One down for first and four up. I am happy for this as this seems more natural to me.

Only issue I still have is that I can find neutral just fine while engine is off but almost impossible to find while engine is running.

I did put chain oil on but have yet to lube the clutch cable. Maybe that is the reason. Did some research and most info I got was that I may need to adjust clutch cable, change engine oil type or adjust clutch itself. I pray that the fix is an easy and cheap one.

Engine sputtered and hesitated a bit until it warmed up. Not sure why. Maybe it takes a while to warm up. Let it warm for 1 min only and then I put the choke in the full open possition.

I have to admit, there was a time when I thought to myself that I may have been making a big mistake and what did I get myself into. But damn I feel like a kid again. Soooo worth it! Most fun I have had with my clothes on.

On another forum ppl suggested I buy a new NKG spark plug. Seems to run fine but plugs are cheap so I may do that anyway just to be safe. May also replace the metal filter with a paper element. Not sure I trust the stock filter.

I did get some really strange looks and one guy pulled over and asked me if my DF250 was a harley. That made my day LOL.

Anyway, dont be too hard on me. I was like a 16yr old boy on his first date with a hottie and I had no self control. I had to ride her LOL.

[katoranger]

One down and four up is the standard shift patten. A real NGK plug is $2 at Oreilly's. Most likely your carb is set too lean and causing the sputtering until it gets warmed up good.

[SpudRider]

One down and four up is the standard shift patten. A real NGK plug is $2 at Oreilly's. Most likely your carb is set too lean and causing the sputtering until it gets warmed up good.
I agree with Allen. ;) Get the real, NGK spark plug for $2 at the local auto parts store. :) You got the standard shift pattern; good for you! :D

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

I'll respond to your lawlessness. I did exactly the same thing with my first bike. :lol: I hope you can control yourself from here forward; good luck with the MSF course.

[GonzoX]

I'll respond to your lawlessness. I did exactly the same thing with my first bike. :lol: I hope you can control yourself from here forward; good luck with the MSF course.

Um yeahhhh. It's like sleeping in the same bed with bride to be the day before your wedding LOL.

Will cold showers help? :lol:

[Weldangrind]

Take the chain off and give it to your wife. Problem solved. :lol:

[SpudRider]

Be prepared for an excellent learning experience at the MSF class next weekend, Gonzo. :) Be well rested and prepared to learn as much as you can. ;) After the class is over, begin immediately to practice all the mental strategies and physical skills you learned during class. These skills and strategies can save you from serious injury or death while riding on the street. ;) I'm sure my life has been spared several times by practicing the methods I learned from my rider safety class. 8O

Spud :)

[Brockway]

I'm pretty sure that is a paper air filter. Looks like an Emgo, or its generic Chinese equivalent. Paper sandwiched between the metal, sort of like a K&N but no cotton and oil. Cheaper and more restrictive to airflow, but better at filtering tiny stuff out of the air.

[GonzoX]

Took my MC training class and passed. Will get my Lic R designation tomorrow I think, if time permits. I now completel understand about the class. It really needs to be a requirement. I can not even imagine somebody hitting the street without this training. It is absolutely necessary.

Got a question for you guys: Has anyone ever moved the seat forward on one of these? I see a hole on the frame just forward of the seat front mounting bolt. It looks like I may be there for that purpose but Im a bit gunshy about unding the front seat as it looks like the shock spring is already stretched.

Any suggestions or experiences with this?

[Weldangrind]

Congrats on taking and passing the class.

I don't have any experience with that seat. If you show us some close-up pics, perhaps we can offer suggestions.

[GonzoX]

Never mind about the spare hole on the frame. Looked at it again and it is for a bolt on one side and a c clamp to secure an electrical cable.

So I guess I will need to research other seats or grow longer arms. :)

[GonzoX]

So I have been riding around my neighborhood. I want to take it slow and practice some more. Class was only 3 days and they kept the speed down to 20mph max.

I dont want to sound like a wimp but I have noticed something very annoying about my bike. I took my class with a 250 Yamaha TR and did not have this issue.

On my bike the vibration goes traight to my hands. It was so bad that I literally had to pull over after five mins of riding and take my glove off. My fingers were numb to the point where I could not feel them. Gloves were a bit tight so I will be getting a different larger size pair. Found it a bit better to ride with no gloves on but vibration still caused the same numbness and pain unfortunately.

Throttle is also a bit tight and causes lots of fatigue on my right hand and wrist. It may not be the bike though, maybe its a medical issue. Thoughts?

I defenitely need different hand grips. I want something that will soak up some of the vibration better and give me more grip. The stock grips are too smooth and fell more like they belong on a bycicle rather than a motorcycle.

Any suggestions?

Anyone know how I can tell what size grips to buy? Nothing in the manual about what diameter the handlebar is.

Other issue I have is not too bad. Bike seems to run lean and sputters and pops a lot. This seems to help make the vibration problem more pronounced. Another forum suggested I get a 100 or higher jet replacement if my jet is 85 or so in size. Anybody know where I can get it from and how to get the right one? Can I get this at a motorcycle shop? I always thought carb parts would be maker specific.

[Weldangrind]

The vibration can be minimized with padded gloves, like Mechanix M-Pact; they're padded to withstand the vibrations from an impact wrench. When you look for new bars, try to find aluminum, also to minimize vibration. BTW, your bars are likely 7/8", and the grips are dissimilarly sized so the right grip can accomodate the throttle tube. Check out the local dirt bike shop and see what they have in butter soft grips in black. It helps.

What carb do you have now? If you have a Keihin clone (identified by three bowl screws), you'd be much happier with a Mikuni. New jets for a Mikuni are much easier to find. You might struggle to find jets for your stock carb. A new 30mm Mikuni is $40 delivered. Jets are around $4-$6 each, and the carb uses two.

[GonzoX]

Thanks. Im going for the easy cheap fix first. New softer grips and better gloves.

Im going to email killermotorsports to see if they can tell me the size of the stock handlebar. If they cant answer, mabe Ill try measuring it myself. I suppose I could use a string to measure the circumfrance? Is that how it's done?

Thx for the tips. I will take a closer look at the carb and maybe post a photo on the weekend so I can figure out what I have.

[Weldangrind]

No, it's just the diameter. I'd be shocked if your bars were anything other than 7/8".

[GonzoX]

Thanks, got confirmation it was 7/8.

That will be my first upgrade. Other stuff will have to wait until after my wedding and honeymoon.

I can honestly say my hand still feels it and I only rode for a 20mins yesterday. This is a must fix for me. Will go to a bike shop this weekend.

The handlebar / seat length will have to wait. I can actually live with it as long as im not doing any crazy sharp turns. And I dont see myself doing that anyway. Ironically, sharp u turns is the only thing I really had problems with when I took the course. I will enventually master it with enough parking lot time.

[SpudRider]

The vibration can be minimized with padded gloves, like Mechanix M-Pact; they're padded to withstand the vibrations from an impact wrench. When you look for new bars, try to find aluminum, also to minimize vibration. BTW, your bars are likely 7/8", and the grips are dissimilarly sized so the right grip can accomodate the throttle tube. Check out the local dirt bike shop and see what they have in butter soft grips in black. It helps.

What carb do you have now? If you have a Keihin clone (identified by three bowl screws), you'd be much happier with a Mikuni. New jets for a Mikuni are much easier to find. You might struggle to find jets for your stock carb. A new 30mm Mikuni is $40 delivered. Jets are around $4-$6 each, and the carb uses two.
The Mechanix M-Pact gloves seem to come in a variety of styles. Can you recommend a particular glove, Weld? Also, where can one get the best price for these gloves?

I agree; aluminum handlebars will lessen the vibration, Gonzo. ;)

Spud :)

[FastDoc]

Other stuff will have to wait until after my wedding and honeymoon.

God bless you Gonzo.

[Weldangrind]

The vibration can be minimized with padded gloves, like Mechanix M-Pact; they're padded to withstand the vibrations from an impact wrench. When you look for new bars, try to find aluminum, also to minimize vibration. BTW, your bars are likely 7/8", and the grips are dissimilarly sized so the right grip can accomodate the throttle tube. Check out the local dirt bike shop and see what they have in butter soft grips in black. It helps.

What carb do you have now? If you have a Keihin clone (identified by three bowl screws), you'd be much happier with a Mikuni. New jets for a Mikuni are much easier to find. You might struggle to find jets for your stock carb. A new 30mm Mikuni is $40 delivered. Jets are around $4-$6 each, and the carb uses two.
The Mechanix M-Pact gloves seem to come in a variety of styles. Can you recommend a particular glove, Weld? Also, where can one get the best price for these gloves?

I agree; aluminum handlebars will lessen the vibration, Gonzo. ;)

Spud :)

You can find Mechanix M-Pact gloves in a range of styles and colours, and they're available at several retail outlets and parts stores. I spotted some at Napa Auto Parts the other day. I'm not sure where the best price would be.

[katoranger]

Home Depot sells the Firm Grip brand gloves. They have many styles with padding.

Like these.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100372747/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=gloves&storeId=10051&superSkuId=202892906

Gloves combined with some good grips should help. Also maybe some bar end weights.

[SpudRider]

Home Depot sells the Firm Grip brand gloves. They have many styles with padding.

Like these.
http://www.homedepot.com/h_d1/N-5yc1v/R-100372747/h_d2/ProductDisplay?catalogId=10053&langId=-1&keyword=gloves&storeId=10051&superSkuId=202892906

Gloves combined with some good grips should help. Also maybe some bar end weights.
Thanks for the excellent tip, Allen! The Firm Grip gloves only cost $9.99 at Home Depot! :D

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

I've also heard of filling the bars with shot, but I've never tried it.

[FastDoc]

I've heard of that also but not tried it. I have also heard of filling them with Great Stuff (a polyurethane of some sort?). Very light but very potentially messy.

[Weldangrind]

Great Stuff is expanding foam, and it wouldn't be messy once it cures. The trick would be a long straw that allows you to apply it deep into the bars.

[FastDoc]

I know I got that stuff on my haqnds once and no solvent I had in the garage would get it off. If someone uses it they would do well to wear gloves.

[Brockway]

I think its partly your handlebars. Those things have a kind of freaky bend to them. Are your wrists angled comfortably? You can get Bikemaster universal ones in a ton of bends for pretty cheap. Click the Handlebars (universal) to see the other bends. The G.P. Touring, European, or LTD might be good depending on where your hands reach comfortably.

http://www.bikebandit.com/bikemaster-european-handlebars
http://www.amazon.com/BIKEMASTER-GP-TOURING-BAR-BLACK/dp/B000KKDQXS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1337282720&sr=8-1

These are my favorite grips ever:

http://www.bikebandit.com/progrip-842-gel-duo-density-cruiser-motorcycle-grips

I have them on my Triumph, my Tmec, and on my Rebel when I had it. I took the heavy bar ends off the Triumph after installing these and just have small caps now. Plus they are now on closeout for $14!

[GonzoX]

Thx for the imput guys. Great day today. Woohoo!

I ventured out onto the busy streets today. Wow what feeling. Felt like a king on this thing. Put 10 miles on it today. Vibration issue wasnt as bad because I am learning not to have a death grip on the grips.

Went to a bike shop and got a bracket for my State inspection. Handlebar grips were like $75 so I said no thanks to them. Bike shop guy said phoam grips do not do well with vibration either so Ill pass on those as well. Ill use ebay and save some money. I want something with much better grip like the pillow grip ones they put on dirt bikes. State inspection guy had a lot of questions about the bike. He could not believe the price on it. Seems it turns some heads as well.

Before I got on the main roads I went straight to the Valvoline place and got my State inspection. Im all legal now but still waiting for my plates, registration and title.

Had one thing happen that scared the crap out of me. Could not shift and clutch felt weak and spongy. Thought I broke my clutch cable but all it was is that the locking nut for the clutch cable got loose from the vibration. Guess I need to put some locktight on that sucker.

Brother is a bike guy and told me not to even mess with the carb. He rode it and thought it was fine. Popping and sputtering just gave it character in his mind and he warned me that once I mess with a carb its never the same. I guess he has a point. It runs fine when warmed up and the sputter and pop are just mildly annoying at best. Spark plug was black but not foulded so I will leave the carb alone for now.

I did keep it under 30mph for most of my 10 mile trip but I did hit 40 for a bit because traffic was on my azz. Better safe than sorry.

One note, mirrors on this thing suck. The vibration kept moving them. I had to constantly adjust them. I see better mirrors in my future. I did get a leather tool bag for the front but it is a bit too big. I need to figure out where Im going to put it. Im thinking about under the seat maybe. Saddle bags are also in my future.

I can see now that this bike will turn into a money pit. As it is now I will have it paid off before the end of the year so no big deal. Wanted to get it before I get married.

Wow what a day. I have to work Sat so Sun or Mon I will ride the crap out of this thing. Im hooked! Why did I not discover this when I was young? now I know what Im missing. It's almost like being a virgin for 30 years and not knowing it.

[GonzoX]

I think its partly your handlebars. Those things have a kind of freaky bend to them. Are your wrists angled comfortably? You can get Bikemaster universal ones in a ton of bends for pretty cheap. Click the Handlebars (universal) to see the other bends. The G.P. Touring, European, or LTD might be good depending on where your hands reach comfortably.

http://www.bikebandit.com/bikemaster-european-handlebars
http://www.amazon.com/BIKEMASTER-GP-TOURING-BAR-BLACK/dp/B000KKDQXS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1337282720&sr=8-1

These are my favorite grips ever:

http://www.bikebandit.com/progrip-842-gel-duo-density-cruiser-motorcycle-grips

I have them on my Triumph, my Tmec, and on my Rebel when I had it. I took the heavy bar ends off the Triumph after installing these and just have small caps now. Plus they are now on closeout for $14!

Brockway, do the gel grips soak up vibration and grip well?

Looks like they are exactly what I need and the price is good.
Ill check to see if somebody sells these on ebay. Thx.

[SpudRider]

I'm glad you got all your paperwork done, and had a nice ride, Gonzo! Thanks for the update. :D

Spud :)

[Brockway]

Yes, they work great on the vibes. There are 2 layers of gel. On my Tmec supermoto the vibes aren't an issue, and my Triumph used to need big bar end weights to cancel out the vibes but now I just use caps. Plus they are nice and grippy, even wet.

[Weldangrind]

Brother is a bike guy and told me not to even mess with the carb. He rode it and thought it was fine. Popping and sputtering just gave it character in his mind and he warned me that once I mess with a carb its never the same. I guess he has a point. It runs fine when warmed up and the sputter and pop are just mildly annoying at best.

I would say that your brother has a point with properly engineered bikes, but I believe our machines need some help. That said, if you're happy, then just enjoy it for what it is. :D

[GonzoX]

OK some new photos:

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/GonzoX450/Picture2060.jpg
My girl and bike.

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/GonzoX450/Picture2064.jpg
Carb says Japan on it. So I guess they licensed it from Japan?


http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/GonzoX450/Picture2067.jpg
Got my State inspection done.


http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/GonzoX450/Picture2069.jpg
Left side.


Money is tight now. I still need better handgrips, gloves, mirrors etc but just cant afford to splurge right now. Going on honeymoon in two weeks.

[Weldangrind]

Thanks for the pics. :D

That carb is definitely a rip-off. If you examine the logo on it, you'll see how it was "inspired" by the Keihin logo.

[SpudRider]

Thanks for posting the photos, Gonzo! :D

Spud :)

[GonzoX]

Well some bad news. My bike is currently out of commision.

I made the mistake of letting my brother ride it and he broke my gear shift linkage. Emailed killermotorsports for a replacement. My fear is that it will take a month to get here. I know these folks do not keep the bikes in stock so they probably have zero parts since they are only a drop shipper. My guess is my part will probably have to ship from China or CA.

Here are some photos I sent them:

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/GonzoX450/Picture2070.jpg

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/GonzoX450/Picture2071.jpg

Seems the metalurgy on these bikes are lacking. The metal looks cast as well.

[Weldangrind]

That almost looks like brass rod! You can certainly make a new one out of redi-rod, which is available at most hardware stores. Just measure the diameter and overall length and cut a piece to suit. You'll likely need to search a bit to find it in Metric, but it's out there. I've found metric redi-rod at my local bearing and fastener shop.

How's your brother? How is he after you got done with him? :lol:

[GonzoX]

I thought about that and one thing I noticed is that the threads are reversed on the other end so that when you turn the rod it engages the threads and tighens on both ends at the same time if that makes sense.

I will look into the ready rods and maybe see how much it might be to have one machined from stronger steel. Just dont trust the Chinese metal now.

In the meantime I sent an email to Killermotorsports in Dallas to get a replacement under warranty. I do NOT want this to happen again but if it does I want a spare in my tool bag.

In another forum they also had the suggestion of doubling up the locking nuts and jbwelding them on the threading to beef up the exposed threading on the rod. Tomorrow I will call around to see who can do work like this. Dont really trust myself to do it but I will look none the less at all my options.

As for my Brother, what can I say, he is my brother. Im a little pissed at him but he did say he would pay for a replacement if it was not too steep. He said it should not cost more than $20. Yeah right! Ill give him the bill and see what he does. Needless to say he is never getting on my bike again.

[SpudRider]

I'm sorry to hear your brother broke the gear shift linkage, Gonzo. :roll: Please do keep us updated regarding your repair, and/or parts acquisition from the vendor. ;)

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

...he did say he would pay for a replacement if it was not too steep.

:roll:

Since one side has left hand thread, you'd need to fabricate the new bar from solid rod. If you have access to a Metric tap and die set, you could use the pitch gauge to determine the pitch of the existing thread and learn the diameter from there.

A little online shopping should find a left-hand die in the correct size.

Make sense?

[Brockway]

Maybe not the cheapest solution, but you could hit up a local motorcycle shop and see if they have a similar sized one in stock. My old Honda Rebel had a similar shift linkage connector to that. Says "Bolt, Tie Rod" on Bikebandit. Could be one of the cruiser models has a similar sized one. Its just an $8 part for the Rebel one, though it looks like it may be a bit short for yours. Big thing to remember when reinstalling a linkage is to line up the dots!

[GonzoX]

OK Im lost. What do you mean by line up the dots?

Years ago I would have messed with the idea of making one myself but since I work nights and am getting ready for my wedding I will be too busy so I dropped the broken piece off to a local machine shop. Old guy there didnt seem like he even wanted to mess with it even though I would have made it worth his while. He said he would look at it and let me know if he could do it or even wanted to. He told me that the rod itself was also bent. Man my brother must really have hit it hard or something. And oddly enough he was wearing flipflops at the time. Yeah, I got one of those brothers.

I got an email from Killermotorsports saying they are working on getting me a replacement but I still want a spare one made out of stronger American steel so I am tackling this from two ends.
I have no problem spending $50 for piece of mind.

I do not want this to happen while I am riding but if it does I want to have a spare rod in my tool bag just in case.

[Brockway]

There should be little dimples on the linkage where it bolts on to the spline. Well, might be. Not sure about your bike. If they are there, there will be one on the circle clamp that goes over the shift shaft and one on the shaft itself to line it up with. If that makes sense.

[GonzoX]

There should be little dimples on the linkage where it bolts on to the spline. Well, might be. Not sure about your bike. If they are there, there will be one on the circle clamp that goes over the shift shaft and one on the shaft itself to line it up with. If that makes sense.

Thanks Brockway. OK Ill look at that but I dont think it makes a difference though. The clamp did not break it was only the rod that scerews into the clamp and the foot shifter that broke. AFAIK all I have to do is screw this thing on and tighten the nuts on each end.

Found a local machine shop and they cut off the damaged threading and drilled a hole and tapped it for new threading. Only cost me $10. He could only drill up to about 5/16" deep into the rod though and it's a bit off so the new threaded part is angled a but. Should not be an issue though. Hope that will be enough. Hope to pick my bike up from my brothers place by Friday. Thanks for the help guys.

[SpudRider]

Thanks for the update, Gonzo. I'm glad you got the problem fixed. :) Don't let your brother get anywhere near your bike in the future! 8O

Spud :lol:

[GonzoX]

Here is a pic of the repaired shift rod:

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/GonzoX450/FortHood-20120530-00015.jpg

On another forum I had a guy say its been two months and he still hasnt gotten his replacement rod.

It's sad that this seems to be a common problem with the DF. And they all seem to break in the exact same spot. I hope my replacement is a revised model that is beefier or made of beter metal but I guess that's just wishful thinking on my part.

Hope to get my bike back home by friday.

[SpudRider]

Is your brother paying the $10 for the repaired shift linkage. :roll:

Spud :)

[GonzoX]

He better. I am going to tell him it cost me $20. Thats to offset for gas and time wasted because of him.

[SpudRider]

Good for you, Gonzo! ;) Don't let him near your bike ever again. 8)

Spud :)

[GonzoX]

Well I got my bike back this Friday and the tapped and rethreaded part works fine from what I can tell.

Never again will I let another man touch my bike! Family or not.

[SpudRider]

Thanks for the update, Gonzo! I'm glad the repaired part works well. :D Please let us know when your brother pays you the $20 he owes. ;)

Spud :)

[GonzoX]

Been a while since I posted so thought I would update.

Shift linkage rod still not here after a month. Called killermotorsports and they claim that it was on back order. May be because everybody that bought this bike has had theirs break.

Still no plates, title or registration either. They say they are waiting on the MSO.

On the bright side I did 60mph this weekend. Really did not feel any faster than 50. I was thinking the other day, what do you guys do when a big rig passes you. I have a truck and a jeep and when I get passed on the freeway the wind from the damn trucks most times cause my vehicle to sway and feels like a side draft wind. I cant even imagine being on my little 250cc bike and dealing with this. How do you guys handle that? Dont recal that being in my training.

Got about 150 miles on my bike now. Plan on changing the oil right around the 300 mile mark. Think Ill switch from the Lucas oil to Valvoline or Castrol.

All in all I love this bike. The feeling I get when I ride it is undescribable. It's awsome. Love this little 250. Some of my friends went straight into buying a big bike but I think this is a mistake for them. My Bobber has just enough power and weight to make me feel comfortable and it is more than enough power for around town and for me to keep a healthy respect for it.

[SpudRider]

Greater difficulty getting parts is one of the difficulties of owning a Chinese motorcycle. :roll: I wish you good luck getting your title and registration. :)

You learn to anticipate the wind, and deal with it, when riding on the freeway. ;) However, most 250cc bikes are unsafe on the freeway, since you don't have enough power to keep up with the traffic flow, let alone have the reserve power necessary to avoid trouble. 8O Only the Ninja 250R and Honda CBR250R have enough power to ride the freeways safely. ;)

Spud :)

[FastDoc]

I's add WR and KLX250's to that short list.

Bring your earplugs... :roll:

[GonzoX]

Gotta love Ebay. $5 for goggles, $6 for mirrors and $24 for a spare shift rod.

The mirrors stay put unlike the stock ones that move from vibration as soon as you start the bike. Havent tried the shift rod yet.

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/GonzoX450/Picture2278.jpg

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/GonzoX450/Picture2277.jpg

http://i1149.photobucket.com/albums/o588/GonzoX450/Picture2279.jpg

On a side note I had some guy ask me today if I built my bike. At least one thing thats nice about this bike is that nobody here has one like it. I get lots of questions. But I didnt buy it to show it off, bought it to ride it LOL.

[SpudRider]

Good for you, Gonzo! :)

P.S. I know what you mean; it's nice to have a motorcycle that's unique. :D

Spud :)

[Weldangrind]

Those goggles are an epic win! 8) Your mirrors are the same ones I bought. Love 'em.

[GonzoX]

For crying out loud! What is the deal with Icebear?

I have killermotorsports my vin over two months ago and still dont have my Lic, Reg and Tittle. WTH? So I emailed them yesterday and found out that the lady that took down my vin wrote it down wrong.

So instead of calling me or emailing me letting me or killermotorsports know that the vin number was off they didnt do anything. Two months wasted because of this. Its like they could care less. So I gave killermotorsports the number again and even took a photo of the VIN and sent it to them.

To top things off my shift rod broke well over a month ago and I still do not have my warranty replacement. Emailed the warranty dept and they say they are out of stock or something. Luckily I had my broken one repaired by a machinist.

I am really dissapointed by the customer service of these companies. I gave them the VIN over the phone using the phonetic alphabet and even had her repeat it back to me yet she still got it wrong when she sent it to Icebear. Guess I was interrupting her lunch break or something.

Sorry guys, I had to vent. I guess its like the old saying. You get what you paid for. But damn, I paid about $2500 for a 250cc TT&L. The dealer invoice on these things is right around $990 when imported in numbers, or so I have read elsewhere. It's not like they are not making money off of these things.

[katoranger]

I need to get a set of those goggles for the lawnmower.

[Weldangrind]

I gave them the VIN over the phone using the phonetic alphabet and even had her repeat it back to me yet she still got it wrong when she sent it to Icebear. Guess I was interrupting her lunch break or something.

Maybe they're simply lying to you. Perhaps they'd rather lie than admit that they've done nothing.

[SpudRider]

I think they're probably lying. :roll: I also think most chinabike dealers are greedy, and make an excessive profit from the motorcycles they sell. :(

Spud :)

[GonzoX]

Well its been a while so thought I would update.

First things first. Got on the interstate for the first time. NEVER AGAIN! I can do 60mph tops doing full throttle and the engine was vibrating all the way to my back teeth. Had a car on my azz doing 90 and he almost hit me. I hate to say it but I need a bigger bike for that. I love my DF250 bobber but its an in town only bike. 250cc just doesnt cut it. It is a great first bike though.

On the way home doing full throttle my air injection hose burst. I lost speed and the tone of my engine changed. Also smelled something burning. It was only the hose I think. Replaced the hose with a better quality one. Engine seems fine so I averted disaster I think.

In the meantime I bought a new helmet and a rain cover. And after almost five months I finally got my lic plate. Damn these people are slow. All I need now is my TX title to come in. Still waiting on my warranty replacement shift linkage rod. Seems killermotorsports loves to sell these bikes but their support and parts system is all but worthless. I recommend you guys do not buy a bike from them.

I think Ill wait a year and then upgrade to a jap bike. Not a diss on Chinese bikes but in all honesty, if I were rich I would have gotten a bmw bike. I do NOT however regret my purchase. It was the best bang for the buck on a brand new bike and I didnt want a used and abused one. It has its place in the market.

The bike is a novelty item. Get lots of questions, stares, honks and compliments so it's not all bad. But I bought this thing to ride, not to showboat. As long as I stay off the super highway I think Ill be OK. I dont want to get rid of it if I can afford another bike. I would like to keep it. The cooless factor is worth every dollar spent IMHO. As with any Chinese made part you have to take a chance.

[Weldangrind]

I'm glad that you didn't learn about small bikes on highways the hard way; good to hear that you weren't hurt.

I get what you're saying about a bigger Japanese bike, and I can also appreciate the desire to keep the Ice Bear. You won't find another bike like that unless you build one.

[SpudRider]

I'm glad that you didn't learn about small bikes on highways the hard way; good to hear that you weren't hurt.

I get what you're saying about a bigger Japanese bike, and I can also appreciate the desire to keep the Ice Bear. You won't find another bike like that unless you build one.
X2 on all points. ;) There are very few 250cc motorcycles, Chinese or otherwise, that are safe to ride on the freeway. 8O I'm very glad you weren't injured. :)

Spud :)

[FastDoc]

Got on the interstate for the first time. NEVER AGAIN! I can do 60mph tops doing full throttle and the engine was vibrating all the way to my back teeth. Had a car on my azz doing 90 and he almost hit me.

I learned the hard way. My Zong and I were nearly killed when we were rear-ended by teenage girl on her cellphone. I was doing about 65-70 in a 70. She was going MUCH faster. I was broken up. She dropped her cellphone. Her phone was OK. I went to the hospital in an ambulance.

PLEASE EVERYONE don't ride your 250's on the highway! Unless they are capable of cruising at 80+ MPH. I don't know any common Chinabike that meets that criterion.

[osbourn]

Hi, folks. I am strongly considering buying a 250cc Ice Bear Bobber from Killer Motor Sports in Fort Worth, TX. I've researched quite a bit so far, but it would be really helpful to actually see one in person before taking that leap. Are there any DFW metroplex area bobber owners OR any folks with personal experience dealing with KMS. Just trying to get a good deal and be careful not to get taken. Any input will be appreciated. Thanks.

[SpudRider]

Hi, folks. I am strongly considering buying a 250cc Ice Bear Bobber from Killer Motor Sports in Fort Worth, TX. I've researched quite a bit so far, but it would be really helpful to actually see one in person before taking that leap. Are there any DFW metroplex area bobber owners OR any folks with personal experience dealing with KMS. Just trying to get a good deal and be careful not to get taken. Any input will be appreciated. Thanks.
Welcome to these forums; we are glad you joined us. :)

I suggest you start a new thread in the Street Forum posing your question; you are likely to get more replies. ;)

Spud :)

[osbourn]

thank you

[jjn]

I read the complaint a lot about it being hard to find neutral at a stop with engine running. First thing to check is the cable adjustment for the clutch. It may have too much freeplay, so that when you pull the lever, it isn't totally disengaging. Some older bikes, as in Triumphs, BSAs, Bultacos, etc, may have an internal adjustment. These were usually under a small round, cover on a side case on the engine, and had a slotted adjuster and a lock nut. On an old Bultaco Lobito I had, the problem was so bad, and common on those, that the dealer cut the clutch rod, which went all the way through the engine, and put a ball bearing in there. That finally fixed it.
But, even when the adjustment is perfect, some motorcycles will always be hard to find neutral at a stop when running. Many years ago, I got into the habit of snicking the trans into neutral while the bike was still rolling a bit. If you do get stopped without doing this, I find I can often let the clutch lever out just a bit when stopped, and even let the bike even move just slightly forward, which takes the load off , and then lift the shifter a bit into neutral. Sometimes, you'll end up in 2nd, and have to do it over again. Despite what the safety courses suggest, I never sit at a stop in gear with the clutch lever pulled in, as it is hard on the throwout mechanism. I never do it in a manual car either.

Just my 2 cents on this, seemingly very common subject.

By the way, I do like the silver bobber.