NEW LF200GY-5 OWNER HELP WITH COLD START!

[Cranger7]

First of all hello everyone...glad to have found this site. I am a new proud owner of a 200GY-5 but a little frustrated with starting it. Sorry if this may be a similiar post to something already answered here but I have poked around and searched and havent been able to find defnitive help on this site cause there is so much already posted. Basically when I got the bike it has already been assembled new and it started right up however when it warmed up it idled about 4000 rpm. So I adjusted the idel with the screw on the right side of the bike so about 1500 rpm and ever since its a real pain to get started , the choke has never made any difference and I have to keep gas rev'd until it warms up - once its warmed up it ldles great and starts first kick of the button. Any help would be appreciated - at this point I left it sitting for memorial day w/e and tried to start it when we got back and ran the battery down. It fired a couple times but just wouldnt go. Thanks in advance for any input and glad to be here! TY..Craig

[red2003]

Sounds like you might have an air leak. Check for a loose carb, or junk floating around in the carb bowl. If that's not it, the low end mixture is really lean. Drop the clip on the needle down to the bottom slot, and set the fuel screw out to about 2 turns. If you don't know what this means, do a search on "carb mod"; there's plenty of info there to assist you. This is a common condition and easily fixable.

[jkomp316]

If your bike is brand new, that could be it too. Mine didn't start idling untill it had about 80mi on it. And yea I turned the screw out 2 1/4 turns from all the way in. And moved the c-clip on the needle down 1 notch.

[Cranger7]

Sounds like you might have an air leak. Check for a loose carb, or junk floating around in the carb bowl. If that's not it, the low end mixture is really lean. Drop the clip on the needle down to the bottom slot, and set the fuel screw out to about 2 turns. If you don't know what this means, do a search on "carb mod"; there's plenty of info there to assist you. This is a common condition and easily fixable.

wokring at it right now i am stuck at gettting the carb off from the accel cable...!

[red2003]

Once you get it off, pull the float bowl and make sure the jets are all free from debris. Doesn't take much to plug them and cause havoc in there. For sure drop the needle clip and set the fuel screw while you have it off the bike. That's the time to do it. Let us know what you find. BTW, have you tried cracking the throttle to start it since you turned the idle down??

[Cranger7]

how do I get the accellerator cable loose from the carb? I unscrewed the cap and now its loose from the carb and I can see the fuel screw and clip I need to adjust but its still connected to the cable? Do I need to remove the plastic around the gas tank or tank to get to it?

[Cranger7]

hey red is there any way I could call you? I also would like to mod the exhaust and other stuff but am not sure about that as well...craig

[red2003]

hey red is there any way I could call you? I also would like to mod the exhaust and other stuff but am not sure about that as well...craig

PM me.

[Cranger7]

I pm'd you but it sitting in my outbox??

[red2003]

Try my e-mail link

[allfunmotorsport]

:lol: :lol: hahaha the worlds first online bike repair shop your tha man red

[red2003]

:D . OK, you probably WILL need to pull the tank. Not sure I understand your question though. Do you need to separate the carb slide (the round cylinder hooked to the throttle cable) from the cable, or do you need to disconnect the accelerator pump from IT'S cable? Or both?? If it's the slide, you just collapse the spring enough to unhook the cable from the inside of the slide, then slide the cable through the slot in the slide. Then you can access the needle and clip after removing the retaining clip that was under the spring. Less complicated then it sounds. Lemme know how it turns out.

Also, the fuel screw is under the carb in the front (engine side) and is really only accesible if you remove the carb. Anything that looks like a screw INSIDE the carb is a jet, not the fuel screw. The fuel screw is OUTSIDE the carb.

[Cranger7]

Well I did finally get the clip adjusted and I moved it all the way to the bottom slot (for anyone else reading this its much easier with gas tank removed which is really easy 2 bolts) I got it back in and the carb mountesd to the intake but the throttle cable is now really loose, there is a lot of play in the gas so I am trying to get the play out and am loosening the locknut and adjusting but it just doesnt seem right like it was before. Also was wondering ..on the carb...the fuel screw is on the bottom and the air/idle is on the side? What do you recommend for them at this point? I did read other postings but since I wasnt sure which screw was which I wasnt clear on how to adjust.

I work out of my home and have spent the day messing with this bike instead of doint my other work! lol...but I couldnt stand it that I ran the battery down trying to start it so I started tinkering and well here I am with it all apart. My next door neighbor is handy with bikes so I know he can be of some help but alas he is at work as well. Its been 30 years since I owned a motorcycle so even though I am not afraid to tinker with it most of this is new to me...famliy were all mechanics and I went to school for it but (about 20 years ago) after working for my uncle for a year , alsways dirty always hot or always cold I changed carreers and got a desk job...

Thanks for the help thus far...I will let everyone know how it turns out...anyone that can shed a light on the cable at this point please dont be afraid to post to this.. I am about 99% sure I have the cable in the carb correctly with the slot lined up and all so I am confused as why it so out of adjustment now....

[allfunmotorsport]

STOP the slack in the cable is most likley becouse you dont have the slid in correct when you but it in you must line up the slot in it with the divt in the carb if the spring is collaping when your pushing the cap on its wrong turn the slid till it drops in to the bottom!!

[red2003]

STOP! If the cable is suddenly loose, you put the slide back in wrong. The slide only goes in one way and it sounds like you got it 180 degrees off. The idle screw will hold the throttle WIDE OPEN and if you try to start it, you're not gonna like the results. Take it back apart and make sure you got the slot in the slide lined up to the idle screw. The taper of the slide faces toward the rear of the bike.

[red2003]

You and me both ALLFUN! Yikes. I hope he reads this before he tries to fire it up!!!

[allfunmotorsport]

that's funny. synchronized posting

[red2003]

I'm waiting for his next post that he fired it up BEFORE reading this. Holy crap!

[allfunmotorsport]

been there, done that. 8O more than once :oops:

[Cranger7]

LOL just to keep you guys from all wetting your pants I did see this and am working on fixing it now...I have a computer in the garage so it notify's me when a new message comes in and I may be new at this but I am smart enough to know something wasnt right so I would never fire it up till I figured it out..<grin> stay tuned...I saw the part about the slot but I thought it meant the short slot on the other side...the litte bit of info abot the slant helped....

[allfunmotorsport]

glad to hear that :D. some people like the sound of REDLINE. but it could cause panic if you not ready for it.
But ya that slant is what the idle screw rest on if your intrested :?:

[Cranger7]

ok i did have it backwards...I thought the long slot was just there to release the cable so I was lining up the little slot on the other side...now that its in the right way its back to normal...the throttle that is...so red...what about the carb screws would you mind splaining that a tad? There is the large screw on the side then there is the small thin one on the bottom..now that I adjusted the clip whats a good place to start with those?

[Cranger7]

OK Folks got it mostly togehter and it fired on the first crank...still needs a little tweaking to the idle and fuel mixture cause it bogs a little when you gun it but let it be known the stuff your seeing here and reading works! Started easier thank it ever has! Thanks Red...and when you get a minute can you reply with a suggestion on fine tuning the carb adjustments and which screw is which for what! Still may call you...want it to sound more like a YZ or something and have questions about the exhaust and related stuff

cant say enough folks about my appreciation for the help and knowledge here! THANKS!

[ob1]

The throttle slide has a wide groove and a narrow groove. Install the slide so that the wide groove contacts the idle speed adjust screw.

[Cranger7]

HUGE difference folks! I also found the air filter housing was coming apart where the hose that connects to the carb sits inside the plastic housing had seperated - also adjusted it back flush and then siliconed around it on the outside to seal it good. But the clip adjustment made a huge difference for me! It starts first time every time with a little gas and idles excellent. It was very diffifult before...it should have been easier but this is a guy who hasnt ever worked on a motorcycle aside from changing a plug and I got it done and it was worth it!

ANYONE having issues starting or idling should do this! And for me
moving it all the way to the bottom clip worked excellent!

Now for a exhaust mod in the near future!
Oh and guess maybe I will post a pic for all shortly!

[Cranger7]

I actually got it put back together! Here is is:
http://img.inkfrog.com/pix/hupernikao/Lifan_1.jpg
http://img.inkfrog.com/pix/hupernikao/Lifan_2.jpg
http://img.inkfrog.com/pix/hupernikao/Lifan_3.jpg

[MOTOXtreme]

Very nice bike, your sticker covering the "5" is a nice touch as well :wink:

[Cranger7]

thanks..yea what happens if we have a Lifan bike race? The race anouncing would go something like this "#5 rounds corner one OH NO #5 is gaining fast, look #5 hit the wall in turn 2 and took out #5 and #5 and #5!"

[AZ200cc]

A china bike race...Hmmmmmmmmm

[IronFist]

Can't really call yourself new unless you've put the slide in backwards, and fired it up. :D That little bit of panic 8O Feels even better when you do get it right. You feel kinda strange drilling out the muffler of your brand new bike with a two foot bit. But, between Red Ob1 and fatboy250, I got up the nerve to start getting my hands dirty. My bike runs sweet now. Not quite 600kms, in 3 weeks. Starts great, never stalls, quiet till you reach higher RPMs. As long as the motor lasts, I'm really happy with my bike, and kinda proud of the work I've done on it. Boltgripper is your friend, and zip ties Rock! Pics page 8 of the gallery. N2r

[czowner]

If your bike is brand new, that could be it too. Mine didn't start idling untill it had about 80mi on it. And yea I turned the screw out 2 1/4 turns from all the way in. And moved the c-clip on the needle down 1 notch.

I'd agree with that, mine was a pig to start when brand new. Slowly improved with more use. Now at 4500km starts with the smallest squirt of the starter.

Jonathan.

[red2003]

..so red...what about the carb screws would you mind splaining that a tad? There is the large screw on the side then there is the small thin one on the bottom..now that I adjusted the clip whats a good place to start with those?

If it's starting and idling, and running. Leave it alone. Give it 300 - 400 miles then you can fine tune it. The screw on the side is the idle screw. No secrets there, just adjust it until the idle is where you want it. Probably around 1200 rpm or so. The smaller screw in the front underneith is the fuel screw. It adjusts fuel air mixture for the low/mid rpm circuit. When you have the motor broken in, you'll probably want that screw about 2 turns out from fully closed.

[Cranger7]

Hey red I just wanted to thank you again for your help...yea after it warmed up fully it didnt really bog and it really only did that when it was idleing and I swamped it with the gas...when I rode it it I didnt notiece any problems. Yea thats prob good advice I will finish breaking it in...its still under 500 101 to be exact.

I still may call you sometime if its ok to ask you some questions about the exhaust..hey as far as a quick one now...what about drilling a hole or 2 in it what are your throughts about that? I mostly want a different sound from it and maybe increased airflow...drilling a holes seems primitive....


thanks again!

[red2003]

You are very welcome. Glad I could be a help. Several mambers here have drilled the muffler. I got rid of it all together and welded on a '01 YZ250F muffler that I bought on eBay. Here's what I did.

http://www.chinariders.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=721&highlight=yz250f+muffler

For drilling, do a search on "exhaust mod". Lots of info there.