Weldangrind's New Lifan GY5

[Weldangrind]

I couldn't resist.

I bought Camwow's Lifan on Saturday, and it was a good decision. I was building the Roketa for Son of Weldangrind, but this Lifan has only 664km on it! It's very clean and straight, even though most of the plastic needs to be replaced. I've purchased most of the parts I need already, because they were intended for the Roketa. It should be on the road soon, and then I can focus on my TW. The Roketa might become a cafe...

I've already removed the tank shrouds and the front fender. One side cover has had some Frankenstein repair, and I'm going to try my hand at plastic-welding on it.

Here's what it looked like, shortly after I got it home.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130518-00256_zps63fd1dbd.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130518-00256_zps63fd1dbd.jpg.html)

There seems to be an alarm under the seat, and I want it gone. Am I ok to simply unplug it, or is there more to be done? Here's what it looks like.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130519-00259_zpsffc6a0d4.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130519-00259_zpsffc6a0d4.jpg.html)

Also, the CDI under the seat is the same unit that the Roketa uses, but there is another device to the left of the seat that I don't recognize. What is this?

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130519-00260_zps58d089c2.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130519-00260_zps58d089c2.jpg.html)

It has the weird anti-lock device on the front caliper. Can I just delete it and move the banjo bolt to the caliper?

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130518-00257_zps5566ae6f.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130518-00257_zps5566ae6f.jpg.html)

This made my day.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130518-00255_zps869f98a9.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130518-00255_zps869f98a9.jpg.html)

[katoranger]

You can do an ABS delete. The picture of the solenoid and what may be the beeping winker flasher.

Try unplugging that alarm stuff. The US bikes did not have them.

[FastDoc]

+1 on the 'ABS' delete.

The 'alarm' may be the annoying GY2 turn signal beeper?

Congratulations on the purchace.

[FastDoc]

Ron's GY is a steal.

[Wild_Alaskan]

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130519-00260_zps58d089c2.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130519-00260_zps58d089c2.jpg.html)

I see from left to right a rectifier, starter relay, and the one on the end is a turnsignal box if it only has two pins that actually connect to the wires going in to it. Its used as the end of the harness on lifans, A big plug with only two or three wires getting used.


If you need parts just let me know! I have loads of side panels and the two types of instrument cluster ;)

[Weldangrind]

Thanks for the tips, guys. I'll test the signals, and see if the device beeps. I'll also just unplug the alarm stuff.

WA, I do need a left side panel. Can you remind me of which style you have with a pic?

[SpudRider]

Congratulations on your new acquisition, Weld! :tup:

+3 on the ABSectomy; excise the tumor. ;)

[Wild_Alaskan]

It is the same kind as you have! I have right and left if you want matching stickers ;) also have white back halfs. Are you just lokking for the back halfs or both sections?

http://i1154.photobucket.com/albums/p531/Sheridan_Joyce/Sales%20Ebay/100_0136_zps4f2f809a.jpg (http://s1154.photobucket.com/user/Sheridan_Joyce/media/Sales%20Ebay/100_0136_zps4f2f809a.jpg.html)

[Weldangrind]

WA, I just need the back half. I intend to paint them anyway, so colour is unimportant.

Thanks to all who confirmed that I can dump the ABS.

[edtardo]

That is good to know about the ABS delete, I just installed a new front caliper on my bike that has the ABS and I don't like it.

[Weldangrind]

Got some more work done on the weekend. Deleted the silly ABS, worked on getting the Roketa carrying rack to fit the Lifan, laced an old Honda DID aluminum rim to the front, re-wired the speedo cluster, ignition and gear indicator from the Roketa to fit and dismantled the front forks.

There was a clunk in the left fork when the brake was applied, and all of the oil had leaked out. Son of Weldangrind and I took the fork apart, along with one of the rusted forks from the Roketa, and found that a bushing was missing from the Lifan fork. In the (blurry) pic below, look just below the seal, and you'll see a gold anodized section that is about 1/2" in height. There is supposed to be a bushing in there, so the telescoping portion rocked in the tube.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/IMG-20130601-00310_zps30885885.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/IMG-20130601-00310_zps30885885.jpg.html)

We decided to just use one of the Roketa tubes, because aside from being corroded, it was complete and in good shape. Since the tube looked awful, I removed the anodized coating from both tubes with oven cleaner, and wiped them clean in about one minute. Son of Weldangrind then polished both tubes, but he decided that they need some colour. In the pic below, you can see the pair of tubes after I hit them with some primer, and a sample of a polished tube. There is a small section about 2" above my hand that is polished.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/IMG-20130601-00309_zps1cad48c2.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/IMG-20130601-00309_zps1cad48c2.jpg.html)

I don't have colour shots at this time, but I sprayed them with Duplicolor high heat red paint, and they look quite good. I'm really impressed with how that paint lays down, and we'll see how long it lasts once the forks are in use. I'll post more pics as work continues.

[SpudRider]

Nice work! :tup: Have you got a Roketa model DB-07, or model DB-07A?

[Weldangrind]

DB-07A. My plan is to take the swingarm, monoshock and link, upside down forks, triple clamps, tank and seat and install them on an '81 XR200 frame. The XR200 twin shocks, triples and swingarm will be installed on the Roketa frame to make a cafe racer. None of that is on the front burner, but it's moving forward.

[SpudRider]

Your DB-07A forks are the same as the forks on my Zong. ;) I posted information concerning the fork oil seal and dust wiper replacement parts in the following thread. However, I wonder which Japanese bushings would fit in these forks? :hmm:

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=10266

[edtardo]

You are making me jealous. I'm gonna have to get me another bike lol

[FastDoc]

Ron's nearly new GY-2 is still available. $500, but in Washington State.

[bogieboy]

Your DB-07A forks are the same as the forks on my Zong. ;) I posted information concerning the fork oil seal and dust wiper replacement parts in the following thread. However, I wonder which Japanese bushings would fit in these forks? :hmm:

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=10266

as i have seen, but not in person yet (darn hospital stays...LOL) the uppers appear the same, but the db07a lowers are different.. the zong forks axle clamp thingie comes up the tubes further than this style, giving the look of longer travel on the db, and more sportbike looking suspension on the zong... just an observation form a :crazy: guy...LOL

[Weldangrind]

Your DB-07A forks are the same as the forks on my Zong. ;) I posted information concerning the fork oil seal and dust wiper replacement parts in the following thread. However, I wonder which Japanese bushings would fit in these forks? :hmm:

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=10266

My forks are the same as yours, right down to the numbers, but they lack the fork cover mounting screw holes. :wtf: I can't figure out how I'm going to protect the forks.

BTW, Son of Weldangrind and I followed your procedure. Thanks for the terrific write-up. We even crossed the US border to buy some Valvoline Max Life Dex / Merc.

[Weldangrind]

I bought some new Nachi 6301 sealed bearings for the front wheel today for $11.77, incl. taxes. I could do better online, but the guys at Precise Bearing in Abbotsford give great service, and they put up with my endless small purchases with a smile.

One of the guys there said that the bearing I selected would be better for a dirt bike / dual sport because it's sealed, and it's rated at 12000rpm. The metal shielded bearings that were originally in the hub are rated at 20000rpm, but they'll quickly become contaminated with water, dirt and sand.

[MICRider]

I can't think of a better home for Cam's bike! :)
Sadly, my Konker had about the same km's on it when I sold it :(. Street bikes seem to be the only ones I manage to get any miles on...

[SpudRider]

My forks are the same as yours, right down to the numbers, but they lack the fork cover mounting screw holes. :wtf: I can't figure out how I'm going to protect the forks.

BTW, Son of Weldangrind and I followed your procedure. Thanks for the terrific write-up. We even crossed the US border to buy some Valvoline Max Life Dex / Merc.
You're welcome. Thank you for your kind words. :) I'm glad I was able to help promote the economy for the state of Washington. :lol:

I mounted lower fork guards on my Zong with stainless steel, hose clamps. They work great, and don't look bad at all. ;)

[Weldangrind]

Thanks, Stew. :)

I'm hoping that I can create a fun and reliable bike for Son of Weldangrind. That's the purpose.

[katoranger]

Ron's nearly new GY-2 is still available. $500, but in Washington State.

If only is was closer. Seems that Washington state has all the deals.


Weld, I am waiting on the cafe build.

[Weldangrind]

Weld, I am waiting on the cafe build.

The kick-off will be in late August.

[Weldangrind]

You're welcome. Thank you for your kind words. :) I'm glad I was able to help promote the economy for the state of Washington. :lol:

I mounted lower fork guards on my Zong with stainless steel, hose clamps. They work great, and don't look bad at all. ;)

Spud, I just found this post; you posted it one minute before I posted, and I missed it.

Thanks for the tip on the hose clamps. I never thought of that.

[Weldangrind]

Made a little more progress today. I removed the triples from the Lifan frame to install the steering lock tab (that I chopped off of the Roketa café) and to properly pack the bearings. They were notchy.

I was pleasantly surprised to find tapered rollers in the stem, rather than loose ball bearings. Here, I thought I was being so smart by placing an ice cream bucket under the lower triple to catch the loose bearings.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130609-00346_zpsae74dfef.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130609-00346_zpsae74dfef.jpg.html)

The lower triple has a mount for a steering lock, but there was no lock on it. Rather than mess with that, I removed it and proceeded with the Roketa ignition and lock tab.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130609-00348_zpsde2f23b0.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130609-00348_zpsde2f23b0.jpg.html)

This is just after I welded the tab on.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130609-00358_zpsfdeeb514.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130609-00358_zpsfdeeb514.jpg.html)

I mocked up the triples to see if it worked properly. You can sort of see how the ignition stud won't pass the tab in the locked position, and then by how much it clears the tab when retracted.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130609-00353_zpsfe89316b.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130609-00353_zpsfe89316b.jpg.html)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130609-00355_zps69ed7f49.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130609-00355_zps69ed7f49.jpg.html)

Something I failed to share yesterday was that the Lifan gas cap would not open with the ignition key. The cap is designed to not lock onto the tank without the key, so the PO must have just dealt with it. Not sure where the original key for the cap is, but it's definitely not the original ignition key.

Since I swapped the Roketa igntion switch and gas cap over to the Lifan, it doesn't matter on this bike. However, it still left me with a cap that will not properly latch onto the Roketa tank. Instead of ordering more parts, I dismantled the lock cylinder from the mystery cap and re-keyed it to the original Lifan ignition key. That allows me to install the Lifan ignition switch and gas cap on the XR200 dirt bike project. The young man who will be receiving this bike really wanted the Roketa seat that I just recovered and the plastic Roketa tank. He'll also benefit from an ignition switch for security. Problem solved.

[Weldangrind]

I decided to change the title of this thread, and I'll be updating it over the next few weeks. This bike is one of two top motorcycle priorities right now.

[nyvdub89]

Such a good thread. Keep it up, Weld! Your son's a lucky guy. :)

[Weldangrind]

Thanks! He just got a part-time job at a local used tire shop, so he hasn't been working on the bike much. I'm hoping that it will be done soon, and he'll be able to commute to work in the summer on the Lifan, instead of his Ranger.

[nyvdub89]

Nice! I worked at the Tire Rack warehouse in Windsor CT last winter so I'm no stranger to mount and balance fun. I used to mount between 900 & 1600 tires a day 5 days a week there. :)

Rangers are nice little trucks, but the Lifan is definitely better for fuel economy.

[Weldangrind]

Made a little more progress on the weekend. I wanted a free-flowing muffler that the USFS guys would approve of, and I wanted a cleanable spark arrestor. I found a 2001 XR250R muffler for a fair price on eBay, so I bent some tube and welded it together. The muffler came with a quiet core insert, but I also have a wide open insert on my '96 XR250R, so we'll see which one sounds better.

I also cut the heat shield mounting bungs off of the head pipe and re-welded them to accept a different heat shield that I had laying around. The original heat shield is really large, and I wanted something smaller. If I get motivated enough, I might build a custom shield out of stainless.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130707-00449_zps41be741b.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130707-00449_zps41be741b.jpg.html)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130707-00448_zpsde694f54.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130707-00448_zpsde694f54.jpg.html)

After I was satisfied with the fit, I painted the exhaust system with semi-gloss black heat paint. I also made some progress in fabricating a headlight mount. No pics for that yet.

[SpudRider]

I love your custom muffler work! :tup:

[nyvdub89]

I love your custom muffler work! :tup:

X2

[Weldangrind]

Thanks, guys. :D

[Weldangrind]

I made some more progress. The paint had cured enough that I could mock up the exhaust system. When I fabricated the midpipe, I failed to make a mid-point mounting bracket, so that's next. I really like the Duplicolor high heat semi-gloss black.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130710-00466_zpsd9e4d9c5.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130710-00466_zpsd9e4d9c5.jpg.html)

I bent up some aluminum recently to mount the headlight that I bought on Taobao, and I think it worked out well. My buddy offered to reinforce it for me with his TIG welder, so I expect that we'll find time for that next week. I secured the mount with stainless T-bolt clamps, and then I drilled the mounts for some neat little signal lights I found on eBay.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130710-00464_zpsd03da03f.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130710-00464_zpsd03da03f.jpg.html)

This shot shows the bracket, but it also shows the Roketa speedo and indicator lights, along with the Roketa steering lock ignition. It all seems to work well together. There's plenty of room below the indicator lights for future considerations, like controls for heated grips, etc.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130710-00463_zps22e6f25a.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130710-00463_zps22e6f25a.jpg.html)

[SpudRider]

Nice job! :tup:

[Trailbikeryder]

Nice Progress :)

[zingshoen]

nice simple instrument setup. are you going with the honda silver red colour scheme?

[Weldangrind]

nice simple instrument setup. are you going with the honda silver red colour scheme?

Not on purpose. The frame is a sort of silver / grey, and the plastics will be black and red with a black seat and black tank. I've changed the bike quite a bit, but the registration says red, so I don't want to stray too far.

I like the instrumentation as well. I have no need for a tach that lies to me, and I like the Roketa speedo.

[Weldangrind]

Forum member Atomic Wedgie welded my aluminum headlight frame for me, since cracks developed on the corners from bending. He also added some extra pieces for strength.

This is an action shot of TIG welding in progress.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130719-00490_zps06437d32.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130719-00490_zps06437d32.jpg.html)

And this is the frame mounted to the forks with stainless T-bolt clamps.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130720-00494_zps04f91f5e.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130720-00494_zps04f91f5e.jpg.html)

[satelliteone]

looking very awesome

[Weldangrind]

looking very awesome

Thanks! I hope to complete it this weekend and go for a victory ride. :D

[FastDoc]

Wonderful work.

I love the action shot.

The exhaust is looking great.

The XR exhaust is durable and quiet. You will love it.

[Weldangrind]

Wonderful work.

I love the action shot.

The exhaust is looking great.

The XR exhaust is durable and quiet. You will love it.

Thank you.

The XR pipe sound volume will depend upon which insert I use with it. The 2002 version is a quiet core, but my '96 is nearly wide open. We'll see which one sounds better and is less obnoxious.

[Weldangrind]

I made a bunch of progress over the weekend. I completed the wiring over the weekend, and I discovered that the audible turn signal box is quite necessary, since there's no quick way to incorporate a flasher. There is a nice by-product of the box, and that is that the turn signals flash rapidly nine times when you apply the brake. Since Son of Weldangrind will be the primary pilot, I'm happy to know that the Lifan has this safety feature.

I discovered an oddity. I had unplugged the alarm, without knowing how it interacted with the electrical system. The bike started up fine without the alarm, but I couldn't switch it off! Neither the kill switch nor the key switch had any effect on the engine, yet the key switch could shut off all electrical accessories. :hmm: The solution was to simply plug the alarm back in, minus the loudspeaker. The kill switch and key switch now work properly.

I hope to get some time on the bike tomorrow evening, at which time I'll install the front brake (and flush it). After a little tuning, it should be ready for a maiden voyage. I'll post pics when it's done.

[SpudRider]

I'm glad to hear you are ready to test the bike, Weld. :)

[FastDoc]

This is going to be a great motorcycle, Weld!

[MICRider]

I can't wait to see some pics of it all put together, your doing an awesome job on it! :)

[Weldangrind]

Thanks guys. :)

I got a little more done tonight, after getting home quite late from work. I installed the front rotor, cleaned the master cylinder, flushed out the old fluid and bled it. I then tried two new CDI's that I picked up today; one (that I bought from Phil at Adventure West) worked great, while the other (that I bought at Saga) runs great but ignores the kill switch. To top it off, they won't accept returns of electrical parts. At least it would get me out of a jam, and i can always stall the motor.

I'm struggling to get the carb dialed in, since the slow jet I've installed might be too big (it's a 30). I'll try a 22.5 that I have and see if it helps.

I also used Spud's hose clamp trick to mount the USD fork guards. Thanks Spud!

[SpudRider]

You're welcome. :) If you are still up, give me a phone call. ;)

[Weldangrind]

I took the bike on a maiden voyage last night! :)

I had a bit of a scare at the gas station, when I filled the tank and gasoline began to shoot out from one of the screw holes in the side of the tank! It was Son of Weldangrind to the rescue, because he quickly brought me an allen wrench and some teflon tape. I stole one of the side cover screws, wrapped it in tape and screwed it into the hole. Problem solved.

I have discovered that the main fuel path of the petcock doesn't work, so I hope to repair that today. It works fine on reserve, but I prefer to keep reserve in, *ahem*, reserve.

I'm using the Roketa speedometer, which is in MPH, and it indicated an easy 60mph. I doubt that it's correct, but it wasn't that far off, and that was at part throttle. It'll do fine on the secondary roads.

Pics later! :)

[SpudRider]

:tup:

[Weldangrind]

Here she is, fresh from the journey to Bonneville. Haven't even washed her off yet. I'll be repairing the front wheel, replacing the battery and replacing the rear signals soon.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/DSC06618_zps64cb290a.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/DSC06618_zps64cb290a.jpg.html)

[cheesy]

Reading this entire thread made me miss my Hi-Bird.

BTW, Weld, where do you find all this time to do this?

[Weldangrind]

It was a struggle. I worked whenever I had a spare moment in the evening, although it always seemed like I was roped into fixing someone else's junk. If I had more time, I would have finished my TW and ridden that to Bonneville. That said, I'm very pleased that I've put 500 of the nearly 60000 miles on Spud's trusty Zong.

[Weldangrind]

Reading this entire thread made me miss my Hi-Bird.

BTW, Weld, where do you find all this time to do this?

Cheesy, perhaps you'd like to arrange to buy Doc's buddys's Hi-Bird. It's a low-miler, and it will go for a song.

[SpudRider]

You did a superb job on the Lifan. :) It looks even better in person than it does in photographs. :tup:

[katoranger]

Cheesy, perhaps you'd like to arrange to buy Doc's buddys's Hi-Bird. It's a low-miler, and it will go for a song.


I just need to get a one way ticket to Docland and ride that back to Kansas.

[cheesy]

Cheesy, perhaps you'd like to arrange to buy Doc's buddys's Hi-Bird. It's a low-miler, and it will go for a song.
It's a thought, but with Mrs. C retiring soon, Chez Fromage will be a one motorcycle household for a while.

[Weldangrind]

I just need to get a one way ticket to Docland and ride that back to Kansas.

Figure out how to do that. Totally worth it.

[Weldangrind]

You did a superb job on the Lifan. :) It looks even better in person than it does in photographs. :tup:

Thanks, Spud. :D

[Weldangrind]

I have some further adventures in bike maintenance and repair to report. After reading Matt's post on modifying the turn beeper, I dug in. Read his post here: mmprestine's beeper mod (http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?p=169959#post169959)

After considerable wiring harness research, I decided to isolate the two wires that would normally trigger a typical flasher and connect them to a standard flasher with alligator clips. When that was successful, I removed and terminated the remaining wires to the beeper. My beeper is different from Matt's, in that it is one molded unit from the factory that I'd need to cut apart. Rather than try to muffle the noisy beeper, I'd rather have one that is easily replaced at the local Napa.

For those who are interested, there will be a black wire that provides power for the beeper, and a grey or green wire that provides the beeper ground upon selecting left or right at the switch. Some simple testing with a multimeter will reveal which wire completes the ground.

This is the flasher that has been removed:

1352

[Weldangrind]

I also didn't trust the alarm device that was under the seat. I tried simply unplugging it last year, but the bike wouldn't run. I researched it a bit more, and determined that it is also a remote start device, like Dossbag's:

Vid (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f9byaMwjvUE)

[Weldangrind]

Read about his bike here: Dossbag's Roketa Storm 250 (http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=13870&highlight=remote+start)



His seems to work well, but I didn't get a remote with my bike, and the battery was completely dead in the morning after having been fully charged the day before. It could have been a bad battery or bad reg / rec, but I'd rather ditch it since I don't have a way to activate it.

After digging into the harness this weekend, I found that almost every wire was simply spliced into the harness to tap into battery power, switched power, signals and tail light. I removed and terminated each wire one at a time, and found that two wires were left: a white wire with a black stripe and a black wire with a white stripe.

The black wire with white stripe normally goes to the CDI, but in this case it goes to the alarm / remote device and then sends the signal to the white wire with black stripe to the CDI. I cut those wires and soldered them together near the CDI.

1353

I haven't tried it yet, but I can confirm that the wire from the kill switch (black with white stripe) goes to that specific terrminal.

1354

1355

[Weldangrind]

This is the exorcised alarm / remote device:

1356

The two pin connector was for the speaker, and the coiled wire on the other end is presumably the antenna wire.

I really like the idea of having a simpler system, because I don't want potential trouble from the alarm / remote to strand me.

Having removed the beeper flasher, I now have the opportunity to install an LED flasher down the road. I just might.

[Weldangrind]

For those who might be interested, I used this schematic as a guide. I can't say that it's 100% correct, since I haven't studied the entire thing. It sure looks right for my bike, and it might be similar for Roketas and Tmec's that have the remote start option.

1357

[SpudRider]

Thanks for posting the great updates, Weld. :tup:

[Weldangrind]

I spent a little more time tidying the harness, and now the solenoid and new Napa flasher reside under the seat with the CDI, instead of hanging out the side with the reg / rec. I'll try it like that for awhile before I trim the tabs off.

I also rejetted, since I had the carb set up for Spudland elevation, and I'm closer to sea level. I'm trying a 110 main and 22.5 slow for now, because I had those in stock. I suspect it'll need a 25 slow when it gets colder outside. I got rid of the stock airbox and installed a pod filter. I'll report how it runs when I get to that point.

No new pics yet, but soon.

[tankme]

For those who might be interested, I used this schematic as a guide. I can't say that it's 100% correct, since I haven't studied the entire thing. It sure looks right for my bike, and it might be similar for Roketas and Tmec's that have the remote start option.

1357

Woot I am currently using that wiring diagram and it is very very close to my bike's wiring harness. I didn't have the alarm (very possibly removed previous to my ownership), but everything else has been right on.

(Heh And I was going to post that!)

Jim

[Weldangrind]

Glad to hear that! If yours never had the alarm (which is likely), the black wire with white stripe will go from the kill switch to the CDI.

[mmprestine]

Nice looking bike! Good thread and lots of good mods. I like the standard OTS (off the self) relay mod.

I have been working through my jetting also, factory settings were definitely just made to work and not how I like to set things up. I should have a post up in a few days about that and all the interesting details. Busy life keeps getting in the way.

[Weldangrind]

I can appreciate that. my job keeps getting in the way of playing with bikes.

Are you using the stock carb? If so, less than $40 gets you Mikuni freedom.

[mmprestine]

I can appreciate that. my job keeps getting in the way of playing with bikes.

Are you using the stock carb? If so, less than $40 gets you Mikuni freedom.

The sheng wey carb will work just fine. I have used some of them on harbor frieght predator motors and always seem to get them tuned. Some times people have problems with them but a few things help a lot. Usually the jets dont seal down so you need to put something on the threads to make sure they seal and not leak. You want the jet to do all the work. The pilot jet sucks since there are no known replacements but you just need a 5mm tap to make the keihin carb ones work. One the up side the factory ones are always small so drilling up works just fine just need to test a lot before moving up again. Right now I am at 105 main and pilot 42, idle screw 1.5 turns out, 3rd clip but will go to 4th clip on needle i believe.

[Weldangrind]

Nothing wrong with the casting or the design, but Mikuni jets are so cheap and plentiful that I'm done with Keihin-clone slow jets.

So cool that you've used them on Predator motors! I've always wanted to try that on a China version that is a Honda clone or an old B&S. Did you buy or fab a manifold? Do you have enough pics to start a thread on it?

[mmprestine]

A few years ago I started making some motor-bicycles. Around here the laws are very liberal for them, basically anything that has pedals is fine, all you need is a something that looks like a bike and an engine. I have always been fond of the old makes and their simplicity. I like the board track racers and this guy makes some of the best around. Check out his web and flickr page, especially the flickr page as the photos are awesome.

http://www.sportsmanflyer.com/bikes.html

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sportsmanflyer/

Walmart, Harbor Frieght, and Ebay really make this to easy and cheap. A word of warning - DO NOT look into it if you are week and have project issues like me! Its a sickness I tell people.

I have made a few and I am currently working on one and could start a thread on it or just on the engine part. The quality of these engines is pretty amazing for the price. And when you remove the governor and put a good carb on them they really rip.

I remember when I was about 7 and bought a Rupp mini bike at a garage sale for $15. Didn't run but I took care of that. Never had a Dad so Mom was pretty proud and that really started it all for me.

Matt

[SpudRider]

I think I saw that 'bike' in the pits at Bonneville last year. If not, I saw a few 'bikes' very similar. :)

http://www.sportsmanflyer.com/IMAGES/Bonneville.jpg

[Weldangrind]

A few years ago I started making some motor-bicycles. Around here the laws are very liberal for them, basically anything that has pedals is fine, all you need is a something that looks like a bike and an engine. I have always been fond of the old makes and their simplicity. I like the board track racers and this guy makes some of the best around. Check out his web and flickr page, especially the flickr page as the photos are awesome.

http://www.sportsmanflyer.com/bikes.html

https://www.flickr.com/photos/sportsmanflyer/

Walmart, Harbor Frieght, and Ebay really make this to easy and cheap. A word of warning - DO NOT look into it if you are week and have project issues like me! Its a sickness I tell people.

I have made a few and I am currently working on one and could start a thread on it or just on the engine part. The quality of these engines is pretty amazing for the price. And when you remove the governor and put a good carb on them they really rip.

I remember when I was about 7 and bought a Rupp mini bike at a garage sale for $15. Didn't run but I took care of that. Never had a Dad so Mom was pretty proud and that really started it all for me.

Matt

I always wanted a Rupp, ever since I read Mini Bike Hero in 1977.

Please start a thread on the whole project, not just the engine.

A gentleman on this forum did something similar, except he used a Zong engine: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=13621

[Weldangrind]

I think I saw that 'bike' in the pits at Bonneville last year. If not, I saw a few 'bikes' very similar. :)

Yep. Here's one of the bikes we saw at Bonneville:

1415

[Weldangrind]

Well, the signal light flasher mod lasted almost one whole day. :wtf:

The cheap Napa flasher I was using couldn't stand up to the vibration, so I substituted the flasher from the Roketa for now. It works great. Is suspect that I could find a heavy duty flasher at Napa, but I'll just find one online instead.

This is the Roketa flasher that I installed under Lifanda's seat.

1449

[Weldangrind]

I failed to properly report that six (!) spokes broke while Son of Weldangrind was riding to Bonneville last year, so I dealt with that this year. I had custom stainless spokes manufactured at Buchanan's, and I believe the cost to be totally worth it. If anybody wants to order SS spokes from Buchanan's for an identical wheel, they now have the details on file. Send me a PM if you want the info.

When the spokes originally broke, the wheel looked like something from a clown car; the rim looked taco'd. I was shocked to learn that the rim is unharmed! The rim that looked so bad last year is back on Lifanda.

The problem is with the tire, since the broken spoke incident. When Bro-in-Law and I went riding last week, the front wheel had a wicked hop in it, despite considerable effort to balance the tire. Today, I pulled the tire back off the rim, removed the rim lock, covered the spokes with two wraps of Gorilla tape and put the tire back on. I spent about an hour inflating the tire up to 40psi, spinning the rim on the truing stand, identifying the bulged area, deflating the tire, adjusting it and repeating. The tire still has a slight wobble and hop to it, but it's much better.

I deflated the tire to 26psi and went for a victory cruise tonight. It's livable. I'll wait until this tire has a few more miles on it before I replace it.

[Weldangrind]

I really don't like the spark arrestor insert that's in the muffler I bought. I think I'll replace it with an insert that is like the one from my old '96 XR250R, since it's much less restrictive. I tried the '96 in my muffler tonight, and it was noticeably less restrictive. I'll need to rejet, but that's easy.

[humanbeing]

...but I'll just find one online instead...
:Dhttp://www.ebay.ca/itm/121404217004
===
REAL cost in Guangzhou bike mart http://youtu.be/f9Xnqfva1w4
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=38700497132

[tankme]

Made a little more progress on the weekend. I wanted a free-flowing muffler that the USFS guys would approve of, and I wanted a cleanable spark arrestor. I found a 2001 XR250R muffler for a fair price on eBay, so I bent some tube and welded it together. The muffler came with a quiet core insert, but I also have a wide open insert on my '96 XR250R, so we'll see which one sounds better.

I also cut the heat shield mounting bungs off of the head pipe and re-welded them to accept a different heat shield that I had laying around. The original heat shield is really large, and I wanted something smaller. If I get motivated enough, I might build a custom shield out of stainless.

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130707-00449_zps41be741b.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130707-00449_zps41be741b.jpg.html)

http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t109/Weldangrind/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130707-00448_zpsde694f54.jpg (http://s158.photobucket.com/user/Weldangrind/media/Lifan%20200GY/IMG-20130707-00448_zpsde694f54.jpg.html)

After I was satisfied with the fit, I painted the exhaust system with semi-gloss black heat paint. I also made some progress in fabricating a headlight mount. No pics for that yet.

Setting the bar high again! Really nice work Weldandgrind. It seems like I am going to be doing the same thing.

What type of steel pipe did you use for the mid-pipe area, or use typically for exhausts? Is this something found in a local pipe yard, or can onlinemetals.com satisfy for this small project? (Driving to town from the sticks costs me $32 so online is my first choice.)

Thanks!!
Jim

[Weldangrind]

:Dhttp://www.ebay.ca/itm/121404217004

Thanks! I'll order one soon.

[Weldangrind]

Setting the bar high again! Really nice work Weldandgrind. It seems like I am going to be doing the same thing.

What type of steel pipe did you use for the mid-pipe area, or use typically for exhausts? Is this something found in a local pipe yard, or can onlinemetals.com satisfy for this small project? (Driving to town from the sticks costs me $32 so online is my first choice.)

Thanks!!
Jim

Thanks. I can't recall what I used, but I doubt that I would have used DOM, because it's not necessary for this task. Probably just mild steel tubing, and I was more focused on the size than the material.

The mandrels I have with my tubing roller don't match the specific size I was bending, so it creased the tube a bit. It still flows.

[tankme]

Hmm, what is DOM?

Thanks!
Jim

[tankme]

Ah, Drawn Over Mandrel.

Ok so this 4130 is what I am looking at: here (http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=21464&step=4&showunits=inches&id=250&top_cat=197) Is this what I'm looking for? or is the A513 (http://www.onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?pid=7779&step=4&showunits=inches&id=283&top_cat=0) kind of stuff closer?

This OD matches the exhaust pipe's diameter. And what I think I'm measuring as thickness on it as well. So, pull the trigger or use something else? I only have square tube laying around and 4" pipe as well, nothing smaller.

Thanks!
Jim

[Weldangrind]

I'm not that fussy. If the tube matches the pipe, I burn it in.

[tankme]

Gotcha, I did order some mild tube as the local yard doesn't carry thin stuff. Also good to know you can weld it while it's on the bike.

I'll be lucky if my finished exhaust looks half as good!
Thanks!
Jim

[Weldangrind]

I only spot weld on the bike. Finish welding is on the bench.

[Weldangrind]

I bought a new Honda spark arrestor for Lifanda, since the part that came with the muffler I bought on eBay is a little small. It can't be easily modified, because it necks down inside and outside the spark arrestor screen. I just received a spark arrestor for a '96 XR250R, since I knew the design and size. I also knew that it wouldn't be a bolt-on deal, but a little Dremel work solved some minor bolt hole misalignment. Here's before and after.

1491

1492

That required rejetting, so I removed the carb and unscrewed the 22.5 slow jet and 110 main jet. I checked with the numbered bits I have, and a 110 jet falls right between a #57 (0.043") and a #56 (0.046"). In Metric (which is what the Mikuni jet system is based on), a #57 is about 1.09 and a #56 is about 1.17. It struck me as too much of a jump to go straight to 1.17, so I used a 112.5 that I had in stock. I also installed a new 27.5 that I bought online.

If I have to drill out the jet further, I'll use this drill and bit set.

1493

1494

[Weldangrind]

The sharp observer will note that the bolt heads which secure the spark arrestor have the Lifan symbol stamped in them. Represent.

[Weldangrind]

My exhaust looked just awful, since all of the heat paint I applied last year had burned off. To top it off, I took the bike camping last week, and it got rained on for four days. The header was totally rusted. I cleaned the rust off with a wire wheel on the bench grinder and painted it with this.

1495

Here's the finished product.

1496

Here's what it looks like after about 100 miles. I guess a few more coats and a few heat cycles are in order.

1497

[Weldangrind]

I swapped out the rusty old horn for a Fiamm I found for cheap in the surplus area at Princess Auto. You could only barely hear the old horn, but the new one will get attention when needed.

1498

1499

[Weldangrind]

For those who are interested, it seems that there are a few styles of valve cover to choose from for the CG pushrod motors. I've read about some members who've had to trim fins off of the cover so that it could be removed for valve adjustment, but that might be solved with a different cover. The first pic is the cover on Lifanda, and the second is the cover on Son of Weldangrind's '83 XR200R. I might try to find a shallow cover for my quad, since valve cover removal is really tricky on that machine.

1500

1501

[Weldangrind]

Since I was on a roll, I decided to find out why the front brake was noisy. I remember reading about members who had to chamfer the leading edge of the pad, but that wasn't the issue for me. The caliper was broken!

1502

I had the old Roketa caliper in stock, so I mixed 'n matched parts to use the best of what I have. The master cylinder window was leaking, so I swapped it for an old Gio master, but it lacks the mirror mount. I'll eventually get a new front brake system and re-install the right side mirror.

[Weldangrind]

Trevort, you're a genius.

Thanks for the tip about writing the jet size on the bowl; I love simple solutions like that. The bike is still a little cold-blooded in the morning, so I might swap in a 30 slow jet to see of it helps.

You can see the jet markings on the bowl, and you can barely see the pod filter I installed. I've had it with the stock air box, and the pod filter fits rather well in there.

1503

1504

1505

You can buy the pod filter for cheap on eBay: 42mm Air Filter (http://www.ebay.com/itm/Black-FOAM-AIR-FILTER-CARB-for-Yamaha-Suzuki-HONDA-XR50-CRF50-XR-PIT-BIKE-42mm-/231048961728?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cb975ec0&vxp=mtr)

[Crow]

I've removed that anti lock thing and fitted a suzuki g n 125. Front caliper with 2 pistons and made a mount for it ,as origonal Set up was next to useless

[Weldangrind]

Interesting. I've found that the stock caliper with fresh DOT3 and a braided line stops the bike very well. I still intend to replace the caliper and master, since new stuff is so cheap.

[zingshoen]

i never got the black paint to stick to a muffler for long. i use wrap and maybe try professional coating some time, but it is dear.

[Weldangrind]

I've considered tying to follow each coat of paint with a heat gun, rather than bolting the exhaust back on and burning it off. I think that my chances of having the paint last a little longer would improve if I could cure it between coats.

I've also considered trying to custom-bend a stainless header, but I'm not predicting great success.

[guttafixit]

I want to take off the ABS off my bike. My bike is like Weldangrind's. Do I just unbolt the ABS and bolt the brake line right to the caliper?
Thanks,
Dan

[Weldangrind]

That's exactly what I did. You'll need to bleed it after.

[guttafixit]

That's exactly what I did. You'll need to bleed it after.

That's what I thought but weather be sure. I have a craftsman self bleeder tool. One of the best tools my wife bought me. :D

http://www.searsoutlet.com/Brake-Bleeder-Vacuum-Test-Kit-perform-one-person-Brake-bleeding%3B-Automotive%3B-Motorcycle-%3B-ATV-many-other-uses/d/product_details.jsp?pid=21151&mode=seeAll

:thanks: Weld.

[Weldangrind]

I have something very similar that I bought from HF.

You're welcome. :D