View Full Version : newbie and new to me
stretch8668
03-08-2014, 08:20 PM
I just got a 2007 cool sports co200gy for 620 has 1900 miles the bike is in great shape never layed down I have to get a shift lever for it and get the rear blinkers fixed ( probably bulb)along with replace a front blinker cause its broken. I've read bout checking all the bolts and nuts on these anything else I should look for and where can I find the shift lever for my bike.
katoranger
03-08-2014, 09:19 PM
Welcome. A shift lever should be easy to find. Xr200 part likely fit.
stretch8668
03-08-2014, 09:58 PM
I know it's the 163fml if it helps
katoranger
03-09-2014, 09:36 AM
I may have a shift lever in a box of parts. Will look this afternoon if I remember.
Weldangrind
03-09-2014, 12:46 PM
Welcome!
If you end up buying a shift lever, make sure it's spring loaded to protect the shifter shaft.
stretch8668
03-09-2014, 01:21 PM
Can anyone send me a link of a shifter that'll fit cause I don't even know what original one looked like or does Iit not matter as long as its a 200cc
Weldangrind
03-10-2014, 10:41 AM
It matters if you have a shift linkage (which I doubt). If not, all Honda clones use the same shifter, AFAIK. It has a slight S-shape to it, which accomodates the fat stator cover, vs. the Honda XR200 shifter, which has a straight shifter.
I had a quick look on www.taobao.com (http://www.taobao.com), but I haven't found anything yet. Try searching under CB200.
Weldangrind
03-10-2014, 10:56 AM
I bet this one would be ideal: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.204.l7frzj&id=20091016330
It is only $5.86 US plus shipping.
stretch8668
03-10-2014, 11:43 AM
So something like this http://www.motoparts-superstore.com/straight-gear-shift-lever-for-atv-dirt-bike-go-kart-2254.html cause I ordered one like this http://m.ebay.com/itm/300859823972?nav=SEARCH
SpudRider
03-10-2014, 02:36 PM
Welcome; we are glad you joined us. :hi:
stretch8668
03-11-2014, 08:09 AM
Also can anyone find a pic or tell me where the idle screw is I already bookmarked page for c clip but can't find one for idle and can anyone tell me where I can get a owners manual for the lifan 163fml for free in pdf
culcune
03-11-2014, 12:37 PM
For parts, try Hooper Imports...they specialize in Lifan parts which in 2007 was pretty much the model from which seemingly many of these bikes were made from, or these companies manufactured bikes for Lifan under contract and also sold them under their own name ; i.e. HiBird.
Www.hooperimports.com
Also, because I have befriended them and they are a distributor with many Chinese contacts (besides just what they carry) is Excalibur Motorsports. www.atv4usa.com 909-591-8800 as well as a 1-800 number on their site somewhere...
stretch8668
03-13-2014, 08:41 AM
Has anyone had to replace the bearings in the swing arm where bolt goes threw
Weldangrind
03-13-2014, 09:07 AM
I haven't done it on a China bike yet, but I have changed the swingarm bushings on a China ATV. I found Yamaha bushings that were a perfect fit, much better quality and around $7.00 each. For the Win!
stretch8668
03-13-2014, 12:24 PM
Is it difficult to replace I'm not worried bout taking swing arm off just replacing them as I'd imagine there pressed in
stretch8668
03-13-2014, 12:28 PM
Here's are some pics of bike did I get a good deal on it it startedsecond kick and wasn't able to drive it as I'm waiting for shift lever to get here and rear turn signals aren't working also found out gotta put heli coil in as its been cross threaded but it still holds plug and has great compression btw its a 2007 cool sport co200gy with 1900 miles and plan on fixing things I've mentioned and regear it performance exhaust performance air filter and re jet it also needs a battery and paid 620
Weldangrind
03-13-2014, 09:16 PM
That's a pushrod motor, so it's really easy to just change the head, rather than use a Helicoil. Your call.
Why do you need to change the swingarm bushings? Is there excessive play? If so, can you take up the slack by tightening the nut?
stretch8668
03-13-2014, 11:45 PM
I thought the 163fml was an overhead cam and 169fml was pushrod. I need to change bushings as theres play in swing arm when move it side to side and bearings in wheel are fine.
Weldangrind
03-14-2014, 12:41 AM
That is a genuine pushrod clone.
Put the bike on a stand, remove the rear wheel and get a real sense of how the swingarm is. My guess is that the nut is loose. I use two shallow nuts and torque them together.
stretch8668
03-14-2014, 08:31 AM
That's good to know about the engine in case need parts and there's play wete bolt goes threw bushing ill have to double check if it warms up today.
stretch8668
03-14-2014, 11:49 AM
Got the shift lever and bike won't shift into any gear any ideas btw clutch handle is really firm.
Weldangrind
03-14-2014, 06:47 PM
Your clutch cable requires lubrication and possibly adjustment.
stretch8668
03-14-2014, 07:02 PM
I hope its just adjustment I can see "arm" move when press lever in. What kind of adjustments should I do and how should clutch feel like
stretch8668
03-15-2014, 10:44 AM
Update: adjusted clutch and can feel it shift up and down with hand but neutral light stays on and still won't move I think clutch won't disengage am I right or what else could it be and how do I solve it.
Weldangrind
03-15-2014, 01:11 PM
Are you trying this with the engine running or off?
stretch8668
03-15-2014, 02:28 PM
Engine runningand can feel it go into gear with hand regardless if clutch is pressed or not and bike still moves freely while in gear
Weldangrind
03-16-2014, 12:18 AM
Try disconnecting the cable at the engine end, and kick it in to gear with the engine off. Can you still roll the bike back and forth? If not, the clutch cable is likely seized. If so, you have an internal clutch problem or a transmission problem.
stretch8668
03-16-2014, 09:36 AM
I did as u said yesterday and it still rolled in first and second I'm gonna go outside today when it warms up and see if anything is loose or what's broken
stretch8668
03-16-2014, 11:16 AM
How will I know if its the clutch any way to tell by looking at it
stretch8668
03-16-2014, 02:21 PM
Well I took the clutch cover off as it was a mildly 30° out today and got some bad news that I'm hoping is an easy fix. I noticed that the clutch is fine but there's a bolt that came out (look at bottom of case) which im assuming goes in hole to right as its threaded and the one directly above it is loose also. I know this cause the star shaped piece near shift fork wiggles when move it. Unfortunately I can't do anything til take clutch off and piece next to it. Also when I drained oil say lots of tiny metalic pieces in oil but no slivers in filter screen so I'm hoping its an easy fix and nothings messed up.
Weldangrind
03-16-2014, 04:09 PM
That explains it. You'll need to get a special tool to remove the centrifugal pickup (which is just above the clutch in your pic, secured with three Phillips screws) and the clutch. This tool will remove both parts for you: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-Motorcycle-Locknut-Spanner-Wrench-Clutch-Tool-CB-CL-CT-SL-XL-XR-200-XR-250-/271146064630?pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&hash=item3f21909af6&vxp=mtr
When you remove the cover from the centrifugal pickup, you'll likely find some silver sludge inside. Make sure you clean it all out. It's a good idea to replace the gasket that is under the cover as well. If you have access to an impact wrench, it will make removal of the three Phillips screws much easier. They strip easily.
When installing the bolts that worked loose, clean them well and secure them with blue Loctite 242 or red Loctite 262. Use 242 on the Phillips screws.
stretch8668
03-16-2014, 04:17 PM
I already had phillips screws out how I found out needed special tool and clutch is held in place with snap ring thanx for link now I know what gotta get
stretch8668
03-17-2014, 06:22 PM
The bolt on bottom is screwed into case my question is what goes into hole on right
Weldangrind
03-18-2014, 10:50 AM
Not sure. It looks like there are two available points for the shifter detent, which is the item at the bottom of your case. It has a spring-loaded roller that applies pressure to the shifter star, and that's what you feel when you shift gears. When you remove the clutch, shifter detent and shifter star, it should all be clear. If not, let us know, and I'll remove a cover on a spare engine I have.
stretch8668
03-18-2014, 11:50 AM
Ok thanx I just ordered tool some I can take that piece off so can then take clutch off then I can tighten and loc tite everything. I also got some blue gasket maker and bought blue and red loc tite
stretch8668
03-18-2014, 07:01 PM
What is shifter star suppose to look ln first just in case its outta wack
stretch8668
03-19-2014, 12:14 AM
Any idea where I can get an engine manual for this and I also found out they had two versions of the 163fml
Weldangrind
03-19-2014, 01:01 AM
Don't worry about the placement of the shifter star, since it has a small hole on the back that engages with a pin. It only goes on one way.
Your engine is identical to the CG125, which was very popular in Brazil and the UK; there is a ton of info for it online.
stretch8668
03-19-2014, 08:50 AM
Awesome thanks found an engine repair manual for the cg125 and its extremely similar to the 200 I'm hopfully gonna tackle this this weekend if I get tool and if the weathers "warm" enough
stretch8668
03-22-2014, 03:38 PM
Got tool today and tightened bolt I'm hoping that's what problem was leaving it empty overnight to let silicone cure. The shifting star wasn't even on the pin on shifting shaft ill see how it goes tomorrow after fill it back up with oil.
SpudRider
03-22-2014, 04:42 PM
It sounds like you fixed the problem. :tup: You can safely test your repair by rolling the bike and trying to shift the transmission before you replace the crankcase cover and refill the engine oil. ;)
stretch8668
03-22-2014, 05:11 PM
Just did it already had cover on don't know why didn't try it before did cover. I noticed when was tightening lock nut on crank that the bike was moving while I did it so I assumed it was working. Ill find out tomorrow though fingers crossed
stretch8668
03-23-2014, 11:43 AM
Got her drivin again and for a 200cc it moves me pretty good (I'm 6'4" and 240lb). Found some things I wanna improve upon like a bigger stiffer rear shock and drain and fill forks as there lil too soft for me. All in all no complaints. .......yet
Weldangrind
03-23-2014, 01:33 PM
Excellent!
Can you move the lock nuts on the shock, to apply more pressure to the spring?
I have had good experience with using the fork oil that Spud recommends, which is Valvoline Max Life Dex / Merc. Good stuff.
stretch8668
03-23-2014, 02:56 PM
I haven't tried lock nuts yet and want a taller seat height also but I've read spudes yhread bout the front shocks couple of times I'm just waiting for warmer weather as its cold in nh
stretch8668
03-23-2014, 03:04 PM
I'm thinking bout getting this shock http://pages.ebay.com/motors/link/?nav=item.view&id=180599866433 just have to measure length and eyelets of mine
SpudRider
03-23-2014, 03:07 PM
Got her drivin again and for a 200cc it moves me pretty good (I'm 6'4" and 240lb). Found some things I wanna improve upon like a bigger stiffer rear shock and drain and fill forks as there lil too soft for me. All in all no complaints. .......yet
Good for you, Stretch. :tup:
These Chinese forks are very easy to maintain. I strongly encourage you to change the fork oil; you will notice a definite improvement. :)
stretch8668
03-23-2014, 06:32 PM
Some reason it seem to idle like its gonna die and popping also when jam on gas it sounds like its gonna die like its running lean is there a filter in petcock and is the c clip mod worth doing
stretch8668
03-23-2014, 09:45 PM
Also about the forks I noticed there's a bolt on bottom and on top can I change oil by unscrewing those to drain and fill em there conventional forks from what I've gathered
SpudRider
03-24-2014, 12:00 AM
I have USD forks on my Zong, so I will defer comment to others who have conventional forks such as yours. ;)
Weldangrind
03-24-2014, 12:53 PM
Some reason it seem to idle like its gonna die and popping also when jam on gas it sounds like its gonna die like its running lean is there a filter in petcock and is the c clip mod worth doing
There might be a filter in the petcock, but the popping is likely the slow jet size, especially when it's cold outside.
A 30mm Mikuni is much easier to tune and to find jets for, than the stock Keihin clone PZ27 or PZ30.
Weldangrind
03-24-2014, 12:56 PM
Also about the forks I noticed there's a bolt on bottom and on top can I change oil by unscrewing those to drain and fill em there conventional forks from what I've gathered
I'd use the bolt on top. Just crack it loose while the fork tube is still clamped in the triple, and then remove the front wheel, loosen the triples and slide the fork tubes out.
Once the tubes are out, you can carefully remove the top nut (they're under spring pressure.
Weldangrind
03-24-2014, 12:57 PM
I haven't tried lock nuts yet and want a taller seat height also but I've read spudes yhread bout the front shocks couple of times I'm just waiting for warmer weather as its cold in nh
Be careful installing a taller shock, because it changes the rake and trail. Beware of changes in handling.
stretch8668
03-24-2014, 02:52 PM
I'd like to get the mikuni as I've read in a few threads how you recomend em and I'm hoping with my extra weight will help with geometry
stretch8668
03-24-2014, 05:00 PM
Would the c clip mod help with this
Weldangrind
03-25-2014, 01:18 AM
It'll help the mid-range, but not idle.
stretch8668
03-25-2014, 08:40 AM
I understand how to do the mod but what way do I move the c clip to richen it is it move it down to richen and up for leaner
bogieboy
03-25-2014, 08:47 AM
I understand how to do the mod but what way do I move the c clip to richen it is it move it down to richen and up for leanerif you move the clip farther from the end that its on (the short end) and move it more towards the tapered end, it will be richer, because when you open the throttle the needle will sit higher in the jet, and will be at a smaller portion of the needles taper in relation to the jet...
hope that helped!:D
Weldangrind
03-25-2014, 10:54 AM
I agree. To answer the question in the same language, moving the clip down will richen and up will lean it out.
stretch8668
03-28-2014, 09:00 AM
Was gonna do c clip mod had everything apart and noticed it was 2nd notch from bottom already so Ieft it and it ran better yesterday (probably cause was lil warmer). Still lil lean though ill take plug out to verify. But I got thinking seeings how I'm gonna redo fluid in forks has anyone tried to do it to rear shock or are they not rebuildable.
Weldangrind
03-28-2014, 10:18 AM
I haven't messed with the rear shock, other than to remove the spring for cleaning and painting.
SpudRider
03-28-2014, 02:02 PM
Please remind me; what bike do you own? However, I seriously doubt your Chinese shock absorber is rebuildable. ;)
stretch8668
03-28-2014, 02:40 PM
Its a 2007 cool sport co200gy
SpudRider
03-28-2014, 03:24 PM
I'm confident your shock is sealed, and cannot be rebuilt. Only expensive shock absorbers can be rebuilt. ;)
stretch8668
04-14-2014, 12:44 PM
Where can I find this switch I've looked but cannot find it and would like it to be a us seller. Reason why I'm asking is because the right turn signal only works when push it over and press down I have seen similar ones just not one with choke. Mine is lights on/off park light high low turn signals horn and choke
SpudRider
04-14-2014, 01:44 PM
I bought one of these for my Zong from AliExpress.com. ;)
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Motorcycle-Switch-Light-Turn-Signal-Left-Universal-ATV/1472211033.html
https://encrypted-tbn1.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcRXEH3e7dgSyFnNccu2AQm6Gl5kvC_xG U2b7Iz2NM1UPCG5WCT9pQ
stretch8668
04-14-2014, 02:36 PM
The plugs are different and I'd like a plug in so don't have to cut wires I'm at work now put ill take pics tomorrow
stretch8668
04-15-2014, 10:28 AM
Took switch apart and there was a sticker with 165 on it must be the part number as there's no other numbers on it
stretch8668
04-15-2014, 11:29 AM
After took switch I relized that its fine its a mfg defect cause the arm that accurates switch isn't allowing it to move all the way over. so gotta press switch in when turn it to right to acivate it.
Weldangrind
04-15-2014, 11:53 AM
Is there a part of it that can be trimmed or filed to fit?
stretch8668
04-15-2014, 12:19 PM
Yea I'm gonna its the part on right side of switch ( the longer end) I'm gonna try to match it to the other side so it'll be symetrical. I'm also gonna get some electrical cleaner and disconnect and clean switch as there's a maginal amount of corrosion and lube it with petroleum jelly. Also gonna use petroleum jelly on case where the two halves contact to seal it so no water gets into it.
stretch8668
04-19-2014, 09:04 PM
Took bike out today for a while here's some pics love the scenery here in nh
stretch8668
04-21-2014, 10:51 AM
Took swing arm off today and found out its not the bushings but the bolt the bolt is a 1/2" and one I need is a m14 had fastenal order me one. I also need some washers cause one bushing doesn't contact either side of frame makes me think some one replaced swing arm.
Weldangrind
04-21-2014, 11:49 AM
Could be. Could also be poor fitment from the factory. I've had to shim stuff like that to make everything work properly.
I'd recommend machinery bushings instead of washers. They are not too costly, and they're available in several widths and thicknesses. Should be available at Fastenal. Glad to hear that Fastenal had the 14mm bolt size available.
stretch8668
04-21-2014, 12:05 PM
They have to special order it at $33!!!!!! But ill feel safer with it on
Weldangrind
04-21-2014, 03:17 PM
Did they give you an idea of what grade it is? $33.00 is expensive, but a higher grade is a good idea.
stretch8668
04-21-2014, 04:01 PM
They said its equal to a grade 5 so I think an 8.8 maybe, the bolt itself is 28 plus $5 shipping
Weldangrind
04-21-2014, 09:02 PM
That beats the China stuff. My guess is that it is usually grade 2.
stretch8668
04-21-2014, 09:12 PM
I noticed that when took triangle plates of near swing arm and shock the bolts were 8.8 and I could tell that piece was also hardened steel due to goldish color under black paint these bikes aren't so bad as people make em out to be. I was in woods for hour an half and no problems til motor sounded finicky. Checked valves and they were resting right on on top with no clearence at all so I did both intake and exhaust to .008 as was called for on cg125
Thorgram
04-22-2014, 11:52 AM
Hey Stretch! Welcome to the wonderful world of clones!
I've been off for awhile but a couple of years ago I was modding my bike like crazy (still haven't finished) maybe some of the parts I bought and pictorials might give you some ideas. Our bikes look pretty similar underneath the plastics etc.
Just search my name and look under thread starter.
I'd put a specific link but I can't remember what I documented under what, I was all over the place.
stretch8668
04-23-2014, 05:13 PM
Here's link to bolt http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/details/35425?searchMode=productSearch&zipcode=&filterByStore=&filterByVendingMachine= the thing I don't get is what's the drive size mean
Weldangrind
04-24-2014, 12:25 AM
It means that a 12mm allen wrench will be required to tighten it.
I'm surprised that it's 12.9! That's a very strong fastener. Since it is black oxide, it is susceptible to rust, so it's a good idea to paint it before installation.
stretch8668
04-24-2014, 08:53 AM
It could be this one I hope cause I don't have a 12mm allen wrench and he said its equal to grade 5 http://www.fastenal.com/web/products/cap-screws-hex-bolts/_/Navigation?term=m14+x+240&termca=&termpx=&sortby=&sortdir=&searchmode=productSearch&zipcode=&filterByStore=&filterByVendingMachine=&r=%20~|categoryl1:%22600000%20Fasteners%22|~%20~|c ategoryl2:%22600001%20Bolts%22|~%20~|categoryl3:%2 2600003%20Cap%20Screws%209and%20Hex%20Bolts%22|~
Weldangrind
04-24-2014, 10:59 AM
I'd use the first option (the socket head cap screw), and buy a 12mm allen head that is driven by a ratchet. They're cheap at HF: http://www.harborfreight.com/9-piece-38-and-12-drive-metric-hex-bit-socket-set-67880-html.html Don't forget to use a coupon.
stretch8668
04-30-2014, 09:32 AM
Called fastenal today and they told me I wouldn't be getting hex head bolt til end of next or beginning of week after so I asked bout allen head and be getting it at end of week or early next week also ordered hex socket set bought em off ebay as I don't like sending card info online hopefuly next week be able to inspect bike and start riding on road.
Weldangrind
04-30-2014, 11:19 AM
You don't have a Harbor Freight Tools loaction near you?
katoranger
04-30-2014, 12:32 PM
You don't have a Harbor Freight Tools loaction near you?
Harbor Freight needs to be a site sponsor.
stretch8668
04-30-2014, 01:04 PM
No harbor freight never seen or heard of one
katoranger
04-30-2014, 01:33 PM
You are missing out. Its the go to store for the Chinariders all across the US.
www.harborfreight.com (http://www.harborfreight.com)
SpudRider
05-01-2014, 12:32 AM
Harbor Freight needs to be a site sponsor.
:lmao:
Allen, you are on a roll! :lol:
Weldangrind
05-01-2014, 12:54 AM
You are missing out. Its the go to store for the Chinariders all across the US.
www.harborfreight.com (http://www.harborfreight.com)
X2! I cross the border from Canada just to go to HF. You should go.
katoranger
05-01-2014, 03:17 PM
:lmao:
Allen, you are on a roll! :lol:
China tools for China bikes.
SpudRider
05-01-2014, 04:42 PM
China tools for China bikes.
Amen! :tup:
stretch8668
05-05-2014, 12:44 AM
What's a good rear sprocket as I have a 50 and don't know bout front as ill have to count them. There's two stretches ill be traveling that are 50 and 55mph and there website says there top speed is 50 mph. I'm looking for one that'll give me a higher top speed less rpm on motor and still be good off road here's link to bike http://www.uscoolsports.com/DIRT_BIKE_200CC_4_STROKE_STREET_p/db-06-200ed.htm
stretch8668
05-05-2014, 11:02 AM
Counted front and its a 15 tooth
katoranger
05-05-2014, 11:23 AM
Get a 17 front and a 45-46 rear. The should get you into a 55 cruise. You will be able to get 65-70 top speed.
stretch8668
05-05-2014, 12:50 PM
That'd be perfect now just gotta find what ones will work
Weldangrind
05-05-2014, 02:31 PM
Measure to be sure, but I think this is correct: http://www.jtsprockets.com/catalogue/model/183
stretch8668
05-05-2014, 02:50 PM
Ill have to measure everything
stretch8668
05-05-2014, 04:02 PM
Do they have sprocket chain combos
Weldangrind
05-06-2014, 01:34 AM
This might do: http://www.ebay.com/itm/JT-Chain-Sprocket-Kit-14-50-for-Honda-XL185S-1979-1983-/390767184288?pt=Motorcycles_Parts_Accessories&hash=item5afb8a09a0&vxp=mtr
stretch8668
05-06-2014, 01:46 PM
Got good news ended up getting bolt from fastenal today now everthing is nice and tight so I can get it inspected first gotta get learners permit. Hopefully thay don't fail it over something I missed
stretch8668
05-08-2014, 11:35 AM
Those sprockets are an exact match now just gotta find a kit with 17/43 with a chain
stretch8668
05-08-2014, 07:19 PM
Found front and rear sprockets http://www.loncinengineparts.com/front-sprocket-for-chinese-200cc250cc-engines-p-10247.html http://www.loncinengineparts.com/rear-sprocket-54-fits-428-chain-46t-p-14688.html only problem is the rear is 8mm and I have 10mm bolts so I'd have to drill em out still no biggy. but how do I figure out how long of a chain ill need
Weldangrind
05-09-2014, 12:18 AM
Just buy a long chain and cut it. It's probably going to be in the neighbourhood of 105 links, so buy a 120 (or longer) link chain.
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