Tmec-200 [Archive] - ChinaRiders Forums

mmprestine

07-23-2014, 04:18 PM

HI guys! New here, well kind of as I joined years ago after getting the kids some chinese atvs. Sure reminded me of the good old days with the mini-bikes, dirt bikes, and 3-wheelers. Countless hours on the paper routes to get toys, the kids of today just have no clue.

Anyway purchased a TMEC-200 from Mefast last November and now just getting to posting here. The delivery was drop shipped direct from Wade @ xcalibur motorsports. Everything was recieved and went together as expected. Just the normal Chinese bike crap that I had to deal with like plastic fitment, shoddy bolts, welds, etc. This post will not be about setup just my ramblings of ownership and what I have done to make it how I want it. I have owned motorcycles my whole life and no matter the manufacture and type there still are things I always seem to do to make it mine. I now have about ~600 miles on the bike of on and off road.

Now for some pics

Matt

mmprestine

07-23-2014, 04:28 PM

I choose to leave the passenger pegs off as I never plan to carry one on this bike and truthfully I dont feel the bike is really built for it.

mmprestine

07-23-2014, 04:34 PM

mmprestine

07-23-2014, 04:36 PM

Removed the low hanging reflector. I cut off the lic plate holder, looks much better now.

mmprestine

07-23-2014, 04:38 PM

Removed the squishy chinese rubber chain guide roller. I turned a black acetal replacement on the lathe that will last a life time.

mmprestine

07-23-2014, 04:40 PM

The side faring connecting rod does not line up with the bolting hole. I need to cut the tab off and reweld but for now I just did this.

mmprestine

07-23-2014, 04:43 PM

The irritating turn signal buzzer lasted about ONE turn. Ha Ha I made a funny! Only picture I have but it was very simple. Take the black box apart and clip the small black piezo speaker wires to remove it. Also taped the hole as water would just fill up the plastic box.

mmprestine

07-23-2014, 04:46 PM

I rerouted the front brake cable to the inside of the fork. During off road it sure liked to get caught on branches and crap. Zero issues now.

mmprestine

07-23-2014, 04:47 PM

Replaced the stock foot pegs with some KLR650 ones that sell on ebay for $20. Next I will cut the mounts off and reweld in proper position. Dam chinese squares.

mmprestine

07-23-2014, 04:50 PM

Reversed the direction of the stand springs. The holding seems much better this way and the stand never sags like it did before. Next I will remove the pin style mounts and move them out of the way. They are a pain in the ass while off road riding and constantly catches the back of my boot.

mmprestine

07-23-2014, 04:55 PM

I purchased a new set of Shinko's while motorcycle superstore had them on sale and free shipping also. Was like ~$70 to my door for the set. I will trash the stockers first.

Weldangrind

07-23-2014, 08:59 PM

Welcome back! I like what you've done with your TMEC, and the pics are terrific.

That vacuum port can now operate a vacuum gauge, which can give you an idea of fuel economy at a given speed, among other info.

Exactly how does the footpeg mount need to be corrected? Position relative to the brake pedal?

Nice work on the chain roller. Is it UHMW?

Thanks for the tip on dismantling the flasher and clipping the piezo wire. Hadn't thought of that.

SpudRider

07-24-2014, 08:15 AM

You have done excellent work. :tup: Thanks for posting all the great tips, and the superb photographs. :)

SpudRider

07-24-2014, 08:27 AM

Removed the squishy chinese rubber chain guide roller. I turned a black acetal replacement on the lathe that will last a life time.

:tup:

For those who don't have access to a lathe, perhaps one of these chain rollers will work as well. ;)

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/960/9522/Primary-Drive-Chain-Roller?term=tusk%20chain%20roller

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/p/pri_07_178646.jpg

SpudRider

07-24-2014, 08:29 AM

Replaced the stock foot pegs with some KLR650 ones that sell on ebay for $20. Next I will cut the mounts off and reweld in proper position. Dam chinese squares.

Did the KLR650 foot pegs fit without any modification? :tup:

How do you plan to modify the foot peg mounts?

SpudRider

07-24-2014, 08:33 AM

I purchased a new set of Shinko's while motorcycle superstore had them on sale and free shipping also. Was like ~$70 to my door for the set. I will trash the stockers first.

You got a great deal on those excellent, Shinko tires. :) I must say, the stock tires have a very nice, aggressive tread pattern. :tup:

bogieboy

07-24-2014, 08:33 AM

:tup:

For those who don't have access to a lathe, perhaps one of these chain guide rollers will work as well. ;)

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/960/9522/Primary-Drive-Chain-Roller?term=tusk%20chain%20roller

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/p/pri_07_178646.jpg

would this be in place of the slider on the swingarm or in addition to it? i dnt believe my shineray has a roller in the system, but it does have the rubber slider on the swingarm...

SpudRider

07-24-2014, 08:39 AM

would this be in place of the slider on the swingarm or in addition to it? i dnt believe my shineray has a roller in the system, but it does have the rubber slider on the swingarm...

This chain roller is an additional item, which is located near the counter shaft sprocket. Some bikes have them, and some don't. My two Honda motorcycles have these chain rollers, but my Zongshen bike does not. ;)

mmprestine

07-24-2014, 12:59 PM

Thanks for the welcome.

Funny you mention the vac gauge as I have already put mine on there to get the mixture screw perfect. The stock jets are actually pretty good but I think I can dial it in a bit more. I have a jet drill kit that works pretty well. Once I do jet testing I then buy what I only need and use the vac gauge again to dial in the mixture screw.

I will take some more pictures of the foot pegs. From the top view you will see how crappy the were put on the TMEC. Both face forward and are tilted.

Acetal is just a type of delrin that is like UHMW but it is harder, self lubricating, and machines better and is just a good replacement for steel when plastic is needed. I have both but like the acetal better.

Welcome back! I like what you've done with your TMEC, and the pics are terrific.

That vacuum port can now operate a vacuum gauge, which can give you an idea of fuel economy at a given speed, among other info.

Exactly how does the footpeg mount need to be corrected? Position relative to the brake pedal?

Nice work on the chain roller. Is it UHMW?

Thanks for the tip on dismantling the flasher and clipping the piezo wire. Hadn't thought of that.

mmprestine

07-24-2014, 01:01 PM

They bolt right in place of the stockers but I did have to rework the return springs a bit. The new ones are just hands down better for my needs.

Did the KLR650 foot pegs fit without any modification? :tup:

How do you plan to modify the foot peg mounts?

mmprestine

07-24-2014, 01:09 PM

The stock tires are actually pretty good and why I am leaving them on. They are great off road as that is what the tread patter is designed for but really suck in the rain on black top. At this point I feel that I will get between 3-4K on the stock rear before I change. I only bought the Shinkos because of the amazing deal motorcycle superstore had on them this spring. The rear Shinko is wider so it will be interesting to see how that tire rides and handles. The tread pattern should work well for me as I do 50/50 travels. I have some streeters on my CX500 that are very good for what you pay.

You got a great deal on those excellent, Shinko tires. :) I must say, the stock tires have a very nice, aggressive tread pattern. :tup:

mmprestine

07-24-2014, 01:14 PM

As explained, it is in addition to the upper chain plate. On the TMEC the lower chain return would ride on top of a cross member and wear it out if this roller did not exist. The crap rubber one that came on the bike wore out in 20 miles and the chain was rubbing metal to metal. Not cool.

would this be in place of the slider on the swingarm or in addition to it? i dnt believe my shineray has a roller in the system, but it does have the rubber slider on the swingarm...

Weldangrind

07-24-2014, 01:36 PM

Thanks for the welcome.

Funny you mention the vac gauge as I have already put mine on there to get the mixture screw perfect. The stock jets are actually pretty good but I think I can dial it in a bit more. I have a jet drill kit that works pretty well. Once I do jet testing I then buy what I only need and use the vac gauge again to dial in the mixture screw.

I will take some more pictures of the foot pegs. From the top view you will see how crappy the were put on the TMEC. Both face forward and are tilted.

Acetal is just a type of delrin that is like UHMW but it is harder, self lubricating, and machines better and is just a good replacement for steel when plastic is needed. I have both but like the acetal better.

Good point on using the vac gauge for dialing in the pilot mixture screw; I had forgotten about that. I also drill jets to suit, but not with a specific jet drill kit. I have a numbered and lettered index that goes to about 60, IIRC.

Delrin is an excellent choice. I've installed Delrin bushings in hydraulic lifts, and they never seem to wear.

footer

07-24-2014, 04:38 PM

wow - not check in for a few days, and a ton of new info on the bike! i want to do some of that to mine!! lol. not that I've had any issues, but if its better…. especially whatever you did to make it run cooler, mine gets pretty warm running around town. where in wisconsin are you? I'm in monroe, south of madison.

mmprestine

07-25-2014, 10:39 AM

Ya saw all the posting for the TMEC and thought I better get off my arse since I had this black beauty for awhile now.

I didnt get any temp readings prior to removing all the EPA stuff but I will take some now though. I have one of those IR thermometers from HF and will take some reading after riding this weekend. It is a bit relative as I have no control data but perhaps you can take some to compare with.

I live in Green Bay. Off road there are many places near here. Just to the north in all the forests are great. There are several dual sport clubs (DS) that have worked to get access to many of the ATV trails and there are also the fire and logging roads.

This site is pretty good for multi-use trails in WI and the UP:

http://www.vvmapping.com/trails/

As an example I plan to take a ride over to Kewaunee to check out Lake Michigan, pick up some salmon and will stop at this ORV park near there.

http://www.vvmapping.com/trails/kewaunee.html

This is my trip the weekend after next. I have three days off work so I plan to camp and travel the UP. About 1hr 45 min from me. Upper Peninsula of Michigan for those non cheese heads. When I travel around the country for work it is funny how so many people think it is part of Wisconsin. Probably should be.

http://www.vvmapping.com/trails/norway.html

DS clubs. Not a member but plan to connect on a rides this fall.

http://www.widualsportriders.org/v3/default.asp

http://www.gldsmc.org/

Matt

wow - not check in for a few days, and a ton of new info on the bike! i want to do some of that to mine!! lol. not that I've had any issues, but if its better…. especially whatever you did to make it run cooler, mine gets pretty warm running around town. where in wisconsin are you? I'm in monroe, south of madison.

mmprestine

07-25-2014, 12:18 PM

After riding the bike for awhile I noticed that the head set nut was loose. In an attempt to tighten it, I then became aware that it was just stripped and not loose. Upon inspection with a dial caliper I found that the diameter was to large to support proper threading engagement to the fork stem. With some research I found that the threading is common with Honda and replaced my nut and washer with the following parts. Thankfully it was just the nut and not the fork stem. Gotter nice and tight now.

Honda parts: Washer and Nut - Thread size is 24mm x 1mm pitch.

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-90503-283-000.html

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/detail/honda/HP-90304-415-000.html

Matt

SpudRider

07-25-2014, 02:10 PM

Thanks for sharing a another great tip. :)

Weldangrind

07-25-2014, 02:31 PM

Good job! I like the idea of swapping Honda parts on.

mmprestine

07-25-2014, 02:32 PM

Thanks. Inspiring to see what the Zong lives through and if the TMEC does 50% of that I will be plenty happy. In the 80s I had a Honda 185s and the TMEC is very similar but actually better although I did pound the crap out of that thing. During my dirt bike days and when I would use it around town always thought I was on the dirt bike.
Thanks for sharing a another great tip. :)

culcune

07-25-2014, 11:43 PM

I haven't been able to get on since my computer took a dump, but am borrowing my son's. I like what you have done to the TMEC! I have kept my TMEC relatively stock, including the EPA equipment. It does get hot, however--much more than my '09 bike which did not have the smog stuff. I have been riding in the 105 to 108 F range home from work (16+ miles), but this week has been even hotter at 114 F to 118 F. The bike does not skip a beat, fortunately, since I would hate to be sitting on the side of the road with turkey vultures waiting for me to cook to the proper temperature! I have a little over 1500 miles indicated by converting the odometer KMs reading on my bike since I started riding the new one in May.

I am glad to see you confirmed the KLR pegs, since someone mentioned this mod about 7 years ago when all the GY200's were about the same no matter who made them. Even though the TMECs are slightly different from other manufacturers it is nice to know that at least the foot peg mod is the same! There you go, Footer, since I believe you were wondering about pegs.

SpudRider

07-26-2014, 01:23 AM

...I have been riding in the 105 to 108 F range home from work (16+ miles), but this week has been even hotter at 114 F to 118 F. The bike does not skip a beat, fortunately, since I would hate to be sitting on the side of the road with turkey vultures waiting for me to cook to the proper temperature!...

:lmao:

I'm glad to hear your TMEC200 is performing well in the excessive heat. :tup:

mmprestine

07-26-2014, 10:31 AM

Well I got a bug up my arse about fixing the side stand before I went riding today. I emulated the Japanese method. It seems odd to me that TMEC wouldnt just do it the correct way to start with. I took the cut off wheel and clipped the welds then pulled the upper pin out of the hole. I used a bolt that came from the crate packing and put it in the back side of the hole and welded it from the front and back. I then removed the lower pin off the front and put it in the same location but on the back of the side stand. After the modification I only needed the single larger spring. There will be a couple posts to show the before and after.

Here it is.

mmprestine

07-26-2014, 10:32 AM

Moar!

mmprestine

07-26-2014, 11:02 AM

Here are the KLR650 foot pegs I purchased.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/110924667768?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

Replaced the stock foot pegs with some KLR650 ones that sell on ebay for $20. Next I will cut the mounts off and reweld in proper position. Dam chinese squares.

mmprestine

07-26-2014, 11:26 AM

Here is how to modify the turn beeper.

Behind the front headlight fairing there will be a small plastic box. Inside is just a simple RC (resistor/capacitor) circuit to generate the flasher interval. To be able to get in there you have to remove the two 10mm bolts on the sides of the fairing and tilt it back. Some times pictures are worth a thousand words so take a look. Remember I have completely removed my piezo so it is not there. You can do the same or just put some scotch tape over the small hole in it to quiet it down if you choose to leave it. Also you can see how I black taped the hole to protect the circuit from moisture. Again multiple posts to show the pictures.
Matt

The irritating turn signal buzzer lasted about ONE turn. Ha Ha I made a funny! Only picture I have but it was very simple. Take the black box apart and clip the small black piezo speaker wires to remove it. Also taped the hole as water would just fill up the plastic box.

mmprestine

07-26-2014, 11:28 AM

Continued.

Weldangrind

07-26-2014, 12:51 PM

Excellent! I'm going to try that today.

While I'm playing with the flasher, I'm going to see if I can convert to a regular flasher. If I can, I'll be able to use an LED flasher instead.

footer

07-26-2014, 03:49 PM

sweet!! i just put tape over my beeper and its much quieter! at least until i get used to turning it off. about to go look at my chain roller, ill have to order that one from rocky mtn atv. and definitely getting those foot pegs too!!

footer

07-26-2014, 03:54 PM

Removed all the epa carb crap, built a block off plate and used a vacuum plug on the carb intake. The engine is now about 35% quieter and the odd valve noise is now gone. Engine runs cooler and has more power throughout the rpm range.

going to have questions on this, but first ill ask a friend who is going to help me do it if it makes sense to him…

and i just put tape over the beeper for now, much quieter!! thanks for that tip!! ill be getting those fort pegs too, and should go look at my chain roller now while I'm thinking about it. this site is the best!!

culcune

07-26-2014, 06:36 PM

:lmao:

I'm glad to hear your TMEC200 is performing well in the excessive heat. :tup:

Yes, as long as I keep the air flowing, I don't believe the excessive heat affects the bike any more than lower temps. I thought it was when our temps started hitting the 100 F, and I could definitely feel more heat on my thighs, but then realized the engine felt hotter (because it is running hotter) due to the EPA equipment that I did not have on the '09

culcune

07-26-2014, 06:54 PM

going to have questions on this, but first ill ask a friend who is going to help me do it if it makes sense to him…

and i just put tape over the beeper for now, much quieter!! thanks for that tip!! ill be getting those fort pegs too, and should go look at my chain roller now while I'm thinking about it. this site is the best!!

These tips are great! I personally like the noisy turn signals simply because I am one of those types that forgets to cancel the signal and will ride for miles with my signal flashing. But I have been contemplating getting rid of the alien-to-me EPA smog crap that was forced on the '13 and '14 TMEC models.

I definitely need something for my chain because my chain rubs the rubber guide due to my smaller rear sprocket. I am hoping that Wade will convince the TMEC factory to start using 46 tooth rear sprockets as I have suggested to him numerous times. But they would definitely need to figure out a fix for the chain guide if they do that (or if Wade finds a manufacturer to make a 46 tooth rear with this bolt pattern in steel as an aftermarket option).

Speaking of rear sprockets, Rebel Gears of Tennessee (I think of Tenn, but they are on the internet) do have the TMEC bolt pattern when I had them make me a 40 tooth, but if you want to have them custom make you one, get at least a 44 in my opinion. But, keep in mind, they make them in an alloy since they are technically made for competition, and I went through a few chains on my commutes since the alloy ate them up (I did not realize people who compete in motocross and such will buy a chain just to use for a race or two, so that kind of made me realize that my sprocket had nothing necessarily wrong with it, as well as my chains, but the sprocket was not made for commuting like the stock 56 or the steel 48 I found in the UK via JT Sprockets (I guess you can order the 48 via JT's US affiliate, but it was easier and less cost to use an online parts retailer in the UK who carried them).

http://www.urbanbike.co.uk/

http://www.rebelgears.com/

mmprestine

07-26-2014, 07:39 PM

I know that some of these mods are to much for some but I will capture them anyway. Here I modded the exhaust to remove the catalatic honey comb to allow the exhaust to breathe more. Cut it, Dig it, Tig it!
Matt

mmprestine

07-26-2014, 07:40 PM

Another!

mmprestine

07-26-2014, 07:41 PM

Getter done!

mmprestine

07-26-2014, 07:55 PM

How much does Reble Gears charge for a custom made sprocket?

It seems unclear to me how the alloy would devour the chains. Was the actual pitch of the teeth correct? Perhaps the engagement was to deep for the type of chain roller that was used? These are all just questions. I have been looking around for some cheap plate sprockets that I can tailor to the bolt pattern of the TMEC. I have a small CNC at home that I could cut some customs but starting with the plate sprockets is very cheap and then I just need to mill the bolt pattern. I was also looking at Honda and Yamaha sprockets also but just haven't pursued it very hard.

These tips are great! I personally like the noisy turn signals simply because I am one of those types that forgets to cancel the signal and will ride for miles with my signal flashing. But I have been contemplating getting rid of the alien-to-me EPA smog crap that was forced on the '13 and '14 TMEC models.

I definitely need something for my chain because my chain rubs the rubber guide due to my smaller rear sprocket. I am hoping that Wade will convince the TMEC factory to start using 46 tooth rear sprockets as I have suggested to him numerous times. But they would definitely need to figure out a fix for the chain guide if they do that (or if Wade finds a manufacturer to make a 46 tooth rear with this bolt pattern in steel as an aftermarket option).

Speaking of rear sprockets, Rebel Gears of Tennessee (I think of Tenn, but they are on the internet) do have the TMEC bolt pattern when I had them make me a 40 tooth, but if you want to have them custom make you one, get at least a 44 in my opinion. But, keep in mind, they make them in an alloy since they are technically made for competition, and I went through a few chains on my commutes since the alloy ate them up (I did not realize people who compete in motocross and such will buy a chain just to use for a race or two, so that kind of made me realize that my sprocket had nothing necessarily wrong with it, as well as my chains, but the sprocket was not made for commuting like the stock 56 or the steel 48 I found in the UK via JT Sprockets (I guess you can order the 48 via JT's US affiliate, but it was easier and less cost to use an online parts retailer in the UK who carried them).

http://www.urbanbike.co.uk/

http://www.rebelgears.com/

footer

07-26-2014, 08:09 PM

[QUOTE=culcune;169985]These tips are great! I personally like the noisy turn signals simply because I am one of those types that forgets to cancel the signal and will ride for miles with my signal flashing. But I have been contemplating getting rid of the alien-to-me EPA smog crap that was forced on the '13 and '14 TMEC models.

yes i think i would forget the blinker too, thats why i just put tape over it for now. not nearly as embarrassing when sitting at a stop light and having people stare… loud enough to hear, but not from a block away!

the exhaust looks simple enough too, have a friend thats a big welder. any pics on what you did to take that other piece off by the spark plug? i kinda looked at it, and ill have to have someone do that for me I'm sure. i see the plate you have on it now where mine has a tube going up into the bike somewhere.

i don't think ill have to do anything with my sprockets, i can get up to 60 real easy and still have throttle left to use. unless I'm missing something about the advantages of different size sprockets. haven't tried to get a top speed yet, being a new engine and all…

I've had a few guys give me the business for buying chinese - until they check it out. now they are jealous! they all say its a fine bike! of coarse they all say 'until you need parts' but with you guys, I'm not worried at all!!

mmprestine

07-26-2014, 08:16 PM

I will put a more detailed post together on removing the EPA crap.

For the fun of it you should wager your buddies on how long and how many miles you keep this bike. I am quite sure it will out last your desire to own it, and if you own it forever then they will be like WTF.

culcune

07-26-2014, 08:23 PM

I like the smaller rear sprocket because I have to maintain about 55 mph for several miles (the speed limit is actually only 50, but it's a two lane, and people like to hit 70 or more, so they make you feel like you are holding them back "excuse me, I didn't realize we really have 'the Purge' and everything is legal this morning"). The 48 tooth sprocket lets me maintain 55 to 60 rather than simply running it up to those speeds with the engine screaming to slow down because it feels like it is being tortured (as well as you feel tortured by the massive vibrations, LOL). Ideally, I would like a 44, but don't want to have one custom made. For what you are riding for, the 56 is ideal, but you will realize what I am saying when you take if several miles on a highway maintaining 55 mph (hopefully your locals are far nicer than southern AZ locals who seemed to have learned, and maintain practice with, the "anything-goes" driving mentality from across the border (i.e. the 75 mph in a 50 zone morning commute)

SpudRider

07-27-2014, 11:51 AM

Thanks for posting more, great tips. :tup: As usual, your photographs are superb. :)

Weldangrind

07-28-2014, 11:07 AM

Matt, I don't know how I missed your post on modifying the cat, but that's awesome. How did you remove the honeycomb from the tube? When I tried it that way, I had a brutal time removing the cat.

tankme

07-29-2014, 11:42 PM

Removed all the epa carb crap, built a block off plate and used a vacuum plug on the carb intake. The engine is now about 35% quieter and the odd valve noise is now gone. Engine runs cooler and has more power throughout the rpm range.

What did you make the block off plate from? What thickness is that? I have this tube removal to do as well.

Thanks!
Jim

culcune

07-30-2014, 12:16 AM

bogieboy

07-30-2014, 08:37 AM

What did you make the block off plate from? What thickness is that? I have this tube removal to do as well.

Thanks!
Jim

on mine i used a cuttoff wheel to crop the tube just above the plate and welded it shut... just has a cute little nub left now...LOL

tankme

07-30-2014, 01:37 PM

on mine i used a cuttoff wheel to crop the tube just above the plate and welded it shut... just has a cute little nub left now...LOL

Thanks for the tip! I'm doing something on it today and it'll be plugged by the time I'm through.

Thanks all,
Jim

footer

07-30-2014, 03:15 PM

so i kinda get the - take the pipe out, and plug it part. but haven't pulled plastics off yet and wondering where the pipe goes once its behind the plastic… assuming it goes into something, the exhaust is what it sounds like, and ill have to plug that too?? i prob won't do this or the exhaust cut and pulling of baffle until this fall, but letting the guy who is going to help me know what we are going to be doing.

culcune

07-30-2014, 10:28 PM

mmprestine

07-31-2014, 11:54 AM

What did you make the block off plate from? What thickness is that? I have this tube removal to do as well.

Thanks!
Jim

I just took a piece of 1/4" aluminum plate I had and fabbed one out of it. You can buy a kit to do it just google smog block off kit for 250.

http://www.solomotoparts.com/Graves-Motorsports-Smog-Block-Off-Kit-for-WR250R-X-08-14/?gclid=CjwKEAjw0ueeBRCmhozc-_DRrlUSJABihBEEP2T0OQCbWq02MHte9w0_Nz7kaeG94MBHLk0 e1TquJxoC52Xw_wcB

mmprestine

07-31-2014, 11:58 AM

It takes all of 15 min to take the smog crap off. The hose that connects to the engine goes to the pump then to the carb. Just remove all of the stuff and hoses. Make a plate to cover the hole in the side of the engine and buy a vacuum cap kit from the auto parts store.

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DAG0/47397/N1167.oap?ck=Search_N1167_-1_-1&pt=N1167&ppt=N1171

How it works. The hose that goes from the carb to the pump is there to use the engine vacuum to generate a pulse signal for the pump to work. The pump has a hose connected to it that has a small canister on one side to bring in fresh air. The pump then takes this fresh air and pumps it into the exhaust to meet the emmissions test minimum.

mmprestine

07-31-2014, 12:08 PM

Interestingly, mine did not have any baffling in the exhaust? I had taken it off a few weeks ago (both front and back) and never noticed anything in my pipe. My old bike ('09 model) didn't have any baffling, either, but it could have already been removed since I bought the bike used. But my new bike, for sure, does not have the waffle cone stuffed up the exhaust?! One less thing to do, I guess!

Are you talking of the honey comb I showed how to remove? I am quite surprised by this as the catalytic converter is part of the needs to meet the epa emissions standards. Are you sure that you have the 2013 bike? The only way to really tell is to use something flexible and run it up the header pipe when it is removed.

mmprestine

07-31-2014, 12:13 PM

Matt, I don't know how I missed your post on modifying the cat, but that's awesome. How did you remove the honeycomb from the tube? When I tried it that way, I had a brutal time removing the cat.

I put the cut pipe sections in the vice then I drilled it out. I started small to larger on the drills and once I hit 1/2" it just caught and ripped all the remaining crap out.

culcune

07-31-2014, 08:27 PM

Are you talking of the honey comb I showed how to remove? I am quite surprised by this as the catalytic converter is part of the needs to meet the epa emissions standards. Are you sure that you have the 2013 bike? The only way to really tell is to use something flexible and run it up the header pipe when it is removed.

To be honest, I have not shoved anything through the pipe, but right where the pipes meet, there is no baffling of any kind. The guy who posted a video of his '09 bike a few years back which I believe is still on the Excalibur site and Mefast site mentioned something about taking it out on his thread (not in the video) way back when he was a member here and had a thread on his bike. My '09 did not have it, but since I bought it used, assumed that the previous owner(s) might have removed it. But my new bike, right out of the crate, did not have anything as far as what was visible to the eye when I had taken the exhaust pipes off. Just for 's$%ts and giggles' I took the front pipe off yesterday and nothing. But, now that you mention it, I should stick something flexible through both peipes to see if anything is inside the pipe out of visual perspective.

Weldangrind

07-31-2014, 11:36 PM

I put the cut pipe sections in the vice then I drilled it out. I started small to larger on the drills and once I hit 1/2" it just caught and ripped all the remaining crap out.

You're luckier than me. I tried that, and the drill eventually stalled. In my case, the cat was in a scooter muffler, so I fixed it buy using a different muffler. :hehe:

Weldangrind

07-31-2014, 11:37 PM

mmprestine

08-01-2014, 01:04 PM

Here is the TMEC manual

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Vf466Tqmr8cDRwTGtSeXliTGM/edit?usp=sharing

mmprestine

08-01-2014, 01:05 PM

carb tuning docs

https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Vf466Tqmr8OHlzWGZLUE1VdmM/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Vf466Tqmr8OTdrNmdqV0R3dFU/edit?usp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B6Vf466Tqmr8eE9pM3RZenlGd2s/edit?usp=sharing

firedogracing

08-01-2014, 11:52 PM

Has anybody tried to change the front sprocket on the TMEC. I have a few customers thinking about doing that mod but I'm not sure what it will do.

tankme

08-02-2014, 12:46 PM

Thanks for the carb and manual links mmprestine! :clap:

If I fail plugging the tube with weld or a bolt I'll do the aluminum plate option.

Thanks again!
Jim

culcune

08-02-2014, 01:31 PM

Has anybody tried to change the front sprocket on the TMEC. I have a few customers thinking about doing that mod but I'm not sure what it will do.

Back when I had my '09 model on the road, and had over-rear-sprocketed (if that is the technical term, LOL) with a 40 tooth rear I had custom made, I did try a couple different front sprockets. I had a couple, maybe a 13 and then a 14? But again, that was with a waaay too high geared (I think the smaller the number of teeth on the rear, the higher geared it is called) rear sprocket, so I never really got to know any effect.

When I finally had the 56 tooth rear back on there with that bike, I had the stock 17 tooth front back on.

If your customers are looking for a higher top speed, don't touch the front sprocket since it is a 17 tooth. Other than custom ordering a rear, for about $45 including shipping, one can order one from a place in England. They were the only place that would ship to the US. http://www.urbanbike.co.uk/jtr113454-rear-sprocket-6129-p.asp (I would not even bother with this sprocket since the stock one is 56 tooth)

I bought this one:
http://www.urbanbike.co.uk/jtr113448-rear-sprocket-1655-p.asp
(you can even read my review on this one, LOL)

You could order these via JT Sprockets US subsidiary, but the transaction is more complicated and costs more(I think it was going to cost something like $52).

I have tried to convince Wade Liu to find a supplier in China that can make 46 tooth rears for these bikes, as even the 48 does not seem to allow the bike to go over 65 mph. If you mention it to him (don't tell him I said so) he might consider it more seriously coming from a dealer!

If your customers are looking for wheelies and such and DON'T want a higher top speed, then disregard the above and slap on a 13 or 14 tooth front. I think the ones I got were off Amazon for the XR200 (don't quote me on which model Honda, but it was common, and the sprockets were cheap and relatively straightforward to put on--someone could steer you as to what model Honda the front emulates (the rear does NOT emulate any Honda!).

culcune

08-02-2014, 06:43 PM

Thanks for the carb and manual links mmprestine! :clap:

If I fail plugging the tube with weld or a bolt I'll do the aluminum plate option.

Thanks again!
Jim

I wanted to see all the bits and pieces of the smog stuff on my new TMEC (the '09 did not have ANY of it), and noticed that the hose that attaches to the first outlet tube was disintegrated thanks to Yuma's tremendous heat--my bike has been much louder and more aggressive sounding for a while now. I have not seen this tube because it is hidden behind the front body plastic--the plastic that attaches to the gas tank. IN other words, the air coming right out of the tube was pretty much going nowhere but out into the atmosphere.

It was disintegrated for a couple inches, and the rest of the hose is fine, so I simply cut the hose down and reattached it to the tube. Out of curiosity, I fired the bike up, and it sounded like it did when new--very quiet, almost like a scooter! It died a couple times too, at idle, although I only ran it for about 45 seconds and was not ridden (it was not warmed up). Here I thought I have been helping the atmosphere with smog equipment, and nothing was farther from the truth! :)

I will be looking for a plate and the removal of the smog equipment soon--I want the bike to run like my '09. I will see how it runs on Monday on my commute to work with the smog hose back on, to see how much of a difference it makes compared to it not properly attached.

Once I get the plate and it is properly sealed, and the carb capped, I envision it will be like 'old times' again!

Weldangrind

08-02-2014, 11:47 PM

Culcune, if you remove the smog equipment, you might need to rejet. That is, unless you keep the catalytic converter in place. You could swap the carb and exhaust from the '09 to truly achieve the 'old times'.

culcune

08-04-2014, 07:44 PM

What effect was happening if the tube that sticks out of the side of the engine was simply going into the air (bypassing the smog pump) since the rubber tube was disintegrated? The bike sounded and drove like my '09, and was kind of loud (I had bought a copper grommet for the exhaust to quiet it weeks ago, not realizing the rubber tube was disintegrated and the smog tube was simply emitting into the air--the body plastic hid all of this).

Once I cut the tube and reattached it, the bike sounded like a scooter. It seems restricted a little bit, too, but I kind of enjoy the quiet?! I might not remove it after all...

Weldangrind

08-05-2014, 01:58 AM

If you blocked it, you'd get the same quiet sound. Hot exhaust was escaping through the small tube, where oxygen is supposed to be introduced, hence the noise.

culcune

08-05-2014, 11:14 PM

If you blocked it, you'd get the same quiet sound. Hot exhaust was escaping through the small tube, where oxygen is supposed to be introduced, hence the noise.

I think I will leave it as is for now--sounding quiet AND saving the environment :)

hect75

08-06-2014, 01:26 AM

:tup:

For those who don't have access to a lathe, perhaps one of these chain rollers will work as well. ;)

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/960/9522/Primary-Drive-Chain-Roller?term=tusk%20chain%20roller

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/p/pri_07_178646.jpg

Spud, what kind of rubber slider do I need to replace mine on the Vento?

Thanks

SpudRider

08-06-2014, 02:01 AM

Spud, what kind of rubber slider do I need to replace mine on the Vento?

Thanks

If you need a new chain slider, I suggest you order one from Taobao.com. ;)

http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.303.bpKM3b&id=4108821344&ns=1#detail

http://gd1.alicdn.com/bao/uploaded/i1/T1E70tXeBMXXc8yfHX_084853.jpg_400x400.jpg_.webp

footer

08-06-2014, 03:32 PM

:tup:

For those who don't have access to a lathe, perhaps one of these chain rollers will work as well. ;)

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/960/9522/Primary-Drive-Chain-Roller?term=tusk%20chain%20roller

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/p/pri_07_178646.jpg

spud, when you say 'perhaps' one of these will work, do you know if will fit the tmec? i noticed mine is pretty wore down already too, was going to get one to replace the stock one. but wanted to make sure i got the right one.

SpudRider

08-06-2014, 04:58 PM

spud, when you say 'perhaps' one of these will work, do you know if will fit the tmec? i noticed mine is pretty wore down already too, was going to get one to replace the stock one. but wanted to make sure i got the right one.

No, I don't know if the diameter of your roller mount matches the diameter of the hole in the chain roller. :shrug: If you measure the diameter of your roller mount, I might be able to determine if the Primary Drive Chain Roller will fit. ;)

mmprestine

08-28-2014, 04:00 PM

Been busy lately but I did get several things done that I need to post about. Have some good pictures to show the valve adjustments, some sprocket tests, chain link removals, hand guards, and speedo indicator failure repair. Anyway just checking in and hope to get it posted soon.

Thinking about the Trail Tech Vapor to replace the crap instruments that are stock.

ripcuda

03-30-2015, 05:45 PM

bump for updates!

Awesome info thread!

iTrack

04-01-2015, 10:52 PM

Just picked one up today. Has a few things that need sorting but I am happy overall. Did 70 miles today about 10 of those off road.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b10/hayssound1/80898B4C-627B-4665-9D58-ACBBF5489297_zpsspkypvcw.jpg (http://s16.photobucket.com/user/hayssound1/media/80898B4C-627B-4665-9D58-ACBBF5489297_zpsspkypvcw.jpg.html)

SpudRider

04-02-2015, 12:29 AM

Good for you; you got the bike dirty on the first day. :tup:

Weldangrind

04-02-2015, 10:53 AM

Thanks for the pic, iTrack. I like those bikes; they look to be well-built.

mmprestine

04-02-2015, 12:06 PM

Thanks for the comments. I need to get back on here, I have been side tracked by a CX500 café racer build. I lost the pictures for some of the mods but can post what I still have. The speedo dial just fell off one day while I was riding so I had to tear the thing apart to super glue it back on.

ripcuda

04-02-2015, 12:16 PM

Nice TMEC! I got to check-out my first TMEC the other day... a Denali xt version... for sale locally.

I was impressed with the bike overall. It was a 2013 model... with only 780 miles. The huge Denali 200XT decals aren't just stickers though. They seem like there bonded or clear-coated over on the plastics. I love the rear rack. The seat seemed to squish me into the tank. If this had the larger 230cc engine... I'd be in my garage. Seller's price was too high. Gonna wait for a Hawk 250.

Cheers!

mmprestine

04-02-2015, 12:18 PM

Here is what it looks like to do a valve adjustment, you need to pull the tank, seat, valve cover, and timming inspection cap/cover. The feeler gauge tool shown is the type that I like to use. It is a Motion Pro Tappet Feeler Gauge. Ebay has them for ~$4.

mmprestine

04-02-2015, 12:24 PM

Valve adjustment is done at TDC. Rotate the engine until the T mark is aligned in the inspection hole. The head of a deck screw that needs the square bit works well to adjust the tappet with precision.

mmprestine

04-02-2015, 12:35 PM

Carb reference photos. After the removal of the EPA smog crap and catalytic converter I needed to rejet my carb. Here is a breakout of the carb in pictures. I have a numbered drill set to #60 and a micro numbered drill set to #80. Like these:

http://www.harborfreight.com/115-pc-high-speed-steel-drill-bit-set-with-index-61620.html

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000TY190C/ref=pe_385040_30332200_pe_309540_26725410_item

You can use a drill to jet chart like this to get your tuning adjusted.

mmprestine

04-02-2015, 12:41 PM

you may not know but there is a small plastic plug installed to block access to the mixture screw.

mmprestine

04-02-2015, 12:44 PM

carb slide pics

mmprestine

04-02-2015, 12:46 PM

carb jets - stock

mmprestine

04-02-2015, 12:49 PM

Installed hand guards and a new shift lever.

ripcuda

04-02-2015, 01:44 PM

:clap: Great pictorials!

What drill bit sizes did you end up with using on your carb?

Is that mixture screw assessable only by removing the carb bowl?

Nice handguards. Where did you get them?

mmprestine

04-02-2015, 01:56 PM

The mixture screw can be accessed with the bowl on, you only need a small screw bit to turn it while the carb is on the bike. This fine adjusts the low speed jetting of the carb.

I dont recall the final jetting but will get the specs and update.

Hand guards are from ebay for cheap. The expanding mandrels that go in the bar ends were crap so I had to refab them. I had a bunch of pictures but lost them.

iTrack

04-02-2015, 05:15 PM

I think my stator is bad, would like to order a high output one from Ricky. Any idea what stator will work?

jct842

04-02-2015, 07:28 PM

I over drilled on a chinese scooter so I just soldered the jet shut and redrilled smaller....worked fine till a dog got under the front wheel and bent it all up.

iTrack

04-03-2015, 09:51 AM

For oil changes you only need a 12mm for the skid plate and a 24mm socket for the side cover. The regular oil drain is a 17mm. You might as well use the 24mm side port and clean the oil filter screen while your there. Bike takes exactly 1 quart of oil. I had to break th cap off my dipstick to access the oil fill, was too large and hit the frame.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b10/hayssound1/82153800-A838-44A8-882B-3FE23C36909A_zpsqnkqh2wr.jpg (http://s16.photobucket.com/user/hayssound1/media/82153800-A838-44A8-882B-3FE23C36909A_zpsqnkqh2wr.jpg.html)

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b10/hayssound1/99D66C48-6EB3-4CF7-B177-873BE359F52F_zpsg29jxkeh.jpg (http://s16.photobucket.com/user/hayssound1/media/99D66C48-6EB3-4CF7-B177-873BE359F52F_zpsg29jxkeh.jpg.html)

I've got 122 miles on the bike and I'm happy so far. Typical China stuff is broken.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b10/hayssound1/D7FE3522-EAAA-495A-AC3A-7E1DFCAAF12B_zps8wu9wi1m.jpg (http://s16.photobucket.com/user/hayssound1/media/D7FE3522-EAAA-495A-AC3A-7E1DFCAAF12B_zps8wu9wi1m.jpg.html)

Tires are decent for off-road and bike handles great, on road they are a little soft and squirmy. They might be too soft, bike seems like it would benefit from some cheap Shinko's , some 244's or SR241's will be just the ticket. Ordered a 48 tooth rear sprocket off eBay UK. This bike needs more gear bad, all the power is down low. Seems happiest around 45-50mph with stock gearing, looking to get up to 60-65 with gearing.

http://i16.photobucket.com/albums/b10/hayssound1/174D28BE-2F62-43B9-8954-0FC7364BA3AF_zpsl6wx6nep.jpg (http://s16.photobucket.com/user/hayssound1/media/174D28BE-2F62-43B9-8954-0FC7364BA3AF_zpsl6wx6nep.jpg.html)

Weldangrind

04-03-2015, 11:41 AM

Thanks for the comments. I need to get back on here, I have been side tracked by a CX500 café racer build.

Please start a thread on that! Plenty of CX fans around here, and also several café nuts.

Weldangrind

04-03-2015, 11:47 AM

culcune

04-03-2015, 07:41 PM

For oil changes...bike takes exactly 1 quart of oil.

Ordered a 48 tooth rear sprocket off eBay UK. This bike needs more gear bad, all the power is down low. Seems happiest around 45-50mph with stock gearing, looking to get up to 60-65 with gearing.

I don't know if you researched it or took my advice from one of the threads for the 48 tooth sprocket, but I could only find one dealer in the UK out of all the dealers in the UK and Continental Europe I could find who was willing and able to mail order a darn sprocket. It was far less complicated than JT Sprockets official channels, and cheaper too! I just wish there was a 46 or 44 they made!?

I have religiously used 1 liter of oil for my changes, but not sure if it makes a big difference using 1 quart. One of the chain auto parts stores carries Castrol 10w-40 4-stroke oil in both liter and quart sizes, so I have always bought that (probably a little fancy, but the savings in gas for my daily 33 mile commute more than make up for paying a couple bucks extra). I have the street tires, which are still great after over 5k miles, so I will be interested to see how the knobbies are in comparison.

culcune

04-03-2015, 07:45 PM

Fantastic pics and write-up; thanks for taking the time. You could have trouble finding a larger slow jet, and that's exactly why I swap to Mikuni carbs. Nothing wrong with the Keihin clones otherwise.

Unlike my old '09 TMEC, I have not touched the idle screw or anything, as well as there are no exhaust leaks on my new TMEC, meaning the stock carb, at least for me as a daily commuter at 33 miles round trip, works fine.

If I was planning some trail riding on it (I would definitely want knobbies, LOL), I would probably swap to one of those Mikunis you always link to, so I could play with the jets. But bone stock, the carb is well suited to the bike right out of the crate, at least for my intended purposes!