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killerbanjo
10-06-2014, 10:47 AM
Hey all. I have a 82 XL 125 RC that I put a 200cc 163fml motor in. I have wired it up so that it run but cannot seem to be able to get the electronics working. I wired up the running circuit myself, then used a cg 125 loom hoping that I could just output the the power into the loom and that it would work... Sadly it does not. Would I be better off just buying a brand new loom or continuing with what I got. I really need to get it working soon though as it without my bike it means taking the bus to work which I hate!

Here is the bike, although I have now painted the wheels and it has lights (not that they work)

http://i.imgur.com/xAff5vEl.jpg (http://imgur.com/xAff5vE)

Any input would be great!

Just to add, although I could just put a cg 125 lump I have into it, I had to split the cases on this motor just to get it running and put lots of time into it! (first ever case split) So would REALLY like to use this motor, and not the cg lump

Weldangrind
10-06-2014, 11:04 AM
That's a project I've wanted to take on for some time; thanks for sharing it with us.

Since you got it running, you've conquered the hardest part. The CDI and regulator are connected properly. Where is the battery hiding?

If you have a CG125 lump and a complete CG125 harness, the path of least resistance would be to use all CG125 stuff. If you remove the stator cover from the left side of the 125, you could remove the flywheel and stator, and transfer them to the CG200 motor. That would have your bike running on 100% CG125 electrics.

If you prefer to use the China stator and flywheel, we'd need to know more about how you connected the stator to the CG125 harness.

Weldangrind
10-06-2014, 11:05 AM
BTW, that exhaust header is lovely. Is it SS, or just bare steel?

killerbanjo
10-06-2014, 11:21 AM
I just have a capacitor in
place of the battery. But assumed this would not matter as
for the last year my CG 125 has had no battery and the only
thing that did not work was the horn - it fizzled instead of
honked. I just placed a small capacitor there to run the horn
for 3-4 seconds at a time.
Also the CG loom is a points loom (not that im using its
running circuit)

the exhaust is a stainless steel micron :)

thank you for taking an interest, Ed.

I'll have to check the wiring tomorrow as I'm on the bus into work atm

Weldangrind
10-06-2014, 02:34 PM
Where did you get that header pipe from?

killerbanjo
10-06-2014, 06:03 PM
I got it from eBay, think it was £100 for the whole exhaust including postage. Here is a guy in the UK selling just the silencer http://www.njmotorcycleservices.co.uk/parts.php but not too much help as you are in BC. just Google or check eBay for a xl125 or xl185 micron exhaust and you might have some pop up!

Weldangrind
10-07-2014, 01:41 AM
No luck, but thanks for the info.

killerbanjo
10-07-2014, 10:28 AM
No Problem. I stripped the bike of anything not needed such as ignition and horn, and I have lights! But only the rear light :/ The front light does come on dimly at about mid revs. I dont think this stator kicks out as much power as the one from my cg as I put a 55w bulb on my cg and it works just fine. Im going to try it again with a 35w bulb and also check the rear light bulb to see if I could maybe shave a few watts off of that too!

Weldangrind
10-07-2014, 10:49 AM
Perhaps there is a dedicated headlight wire on the CG200 stator that must be used.

You could switch the tail light to LED to save a few watts.

Mudflap
10-07-2014, 11:17 AM
Do you have the right regulator for the engine?

I don't know what the wiring system on your bike consists of but on my Lifan 200 all the lights including turnsignals will work without a battery in the system. Head, tail, brake light work on regulated AC. Turn signals work on regulated DC. The battery is not needed at all except for the electric starter.

I can post a wiring diagram for the Lifan 200 if that would help.

killerbanjo
10-07-2014, 12:05 PM
The regulator I have looks exactly like my cg 125 one. It kicks out 12v. I looks like this one http://thumbs3.ebaystatic.com/d/l225/m/mvKLtksFLlm6QY0ZMm78Bjg.jpg

This is the wiring diagram I have used for the engine.

http://planetminis.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=49463&d=1257355683

Mudflap
10-07-2014, 12:28 PM
Looks like everything is being run on DC in the diagram but the black wire from the regulator shows no connection. Very different than how the Lifan 163 FML is wired on my bike. The regulator is different too but may be the same internally.

I suspect that the DC output from the regulator is insufficient to power the lights and that going AC on the lights will solve the problem. Could the black wire from the regulator be regulated AC output?

Mudflap
10-07-2014, 12:41 PM
Here's the diagram for the Lifan 200 GY5.

http://i1285.photobucket.com/albums/a583/QDM2/200wiring_zps93a0e15a.jpg

zingshoen
10-07-2014, 10:43 PM
if you want i can scan the diagram of the 1982 XL125S and post it? Not sure what the RC stands for, but it would help match the loom to the engine.

InventorPardue
10-08-2014, 07:43 PM
Looks like everything is being run on DC in the diagram but the black wire from the regulator shows no connection. Very different than how the Lifan 163 FML is wired on my bike. The regulator is different too but may be the same internally.

I suspect that the DC output from the regulator is insufficient to power the lights and that going AC on the lights will solve the problem. Could the black wire from the regulator be regulated AC output?

The black wire is often a Voltage sense input for the Voltage regulator. If so, it should be tied to switched, fused power.

A unique feature of the Voltage sense input is the ability to "adjust" the Voltage on your bike. The regulator circuitry constantly analyzes Voltage on the Black wire, boosting or reducing output to maintain 13.8 Volts DC on the Black wire.

For example, if you connect the Black wire at the ignition switch output, there is slightly less Volts there than at the headlight. The Voltage drop is due to switch, wire, and headlight resistance. If you tap into the wiring at the head light, overall Volts will be slightly higher. If you place a 22 Ohm resistor in the Black wire, Volts will climb further since the "sensed" Voltage is less.

Have seen a few Black regulator outputs wired to power electric chokes.

I looked and do not have the '82 XL125S RC diagram. I have a 1977 XL125S diagram. That scan would be interesting to see.



Jon

killerbanjo
10-09-2014, 03:08 AM
Hey all, from this cg wiring diagram

http://www.robocog.dyndns.org/cg125/simplecgwiringdiag.jpg

I made a much simpler one! Now I can see the problem. The headlight and taillight run right off the alternator BEFORE going through the reg... I hope I have not damaged the reg by trying to pull so much juice off of it! Tomorrow Ill give it another go and see how it goes :)

Here is the diagram if anyone might find it useful - It took me way to long in ms paint erasing all the unnecessary lines for only me to get use from it haha

I'm sure this diagram would suit 99% of hondas apart from the ignition system (this one is points rather than CDI) so it might be useful to others...

http://i.imgur.com/vpYUsoh.jpg