Free 1989 Club Car

[katoranger]

Last night we took the kids trick or treating and one house had a golf car on a trailer with a bunch of trash.

I asked and got it for free. Needs alittle work. I got all the batteries. Good for the scrap value. He said it was rolled over a few years ago.

My plan is to install a gas engine and use it in the yard.

[SpudRider]

More fun for the kids! :tup:

[Weldangrind]

The battery value alone will bring happiness. So, you don't care to keep it electric?

[katoranger]

I don't want to deal with the batteries and not knowing the condition of the electrical parts. Batteries are expensive.

One thought I had is to use a gy6 engine with reverse. The output shaft can run a chain to the input shaft of the differential. Will take the electric motor off. My other option is to install a GX Honda clone engine. Both of these are less expensive than the new batteries. I can sell the motor, controller etc. The old batteries are probably worth $50-75 in scrap.

I think we will put a dump bed on it.

Also possible to make it hydraulic drive. I have a 14hp kohler with a put and motors from the jacobsen machines. Motors go forward and reverse. Direct drive the input on the differential with that. Dumpster parts.:tup:

[SpudRider]

This sounds like another fun project. :tup:

[Weldangrind]

Hydraulic drive! Do it!

[katoranger]

I have everything to make it hydraulic drive. My only concern is that is may be too slow. I think the golf car rear end is about 12:1. The drive motors I have are designed for direct drive on golf car sized wheels. I only need one motor to drive this so I think that I may be able to increase the flow to get more speed. I may just need a faster motor with less torque.

I can also install larger diameter rear wheels to increase ground speed.

Hydraulic drive and we can also put the snow plow on the front.

[katoranger]

I have to more some things out of the shop so that I can back the trailer in and use the shop crane to unload it. Then we can start the design process.

[Weldangrind]

Can you attach a sprocket to the rear end, and connect the hydraulic drive with a chain? If so, you could compensate for that very low rear gear.

[katoranger]

Weld, I was thinking about that. We should be able to install a large gear on the motor. These mowers don't go very fast.

[Weldangrind]

Do you think #40 would handle it?

[katoranger]

I think so. #40 or #50 is easily found at the farm store along with a selection of sprockets.

[Weldangrind]

Do they have a good selection of weld-on hubs? Do you think they'll have a hub ID that will fit the shaft?

[katoranger]

We have lots of farm stores to pick from. The store in Independence has alot of sprockets. Tomorrow I hope to move it into the shop. I need to move some things out and clean.

[katoranger]

We unloaded it into the shop using the Ford tractor and the shop crane.

Remove the motor and it has a shaft with 10 splines. About 3/4 diameter. I need to measure it. Has 10 splines.

[katoranger]

I believe the rear is a 6.25 to 1 ratio. I turn one wheel and the shaft turned about 6.25 times.

[katoranger]

I believe the rear is a 6.25 to 1 ratio. I turn one wheel and the shaft turned about 6.25 times.


Probably need to multiply by 2 for the open diff. 12.5/1 that sounds more like a golf car ratio.

I think the stock electric motor turned about 3000 rpm. Not sure how much those hydro motors turn. Likely not much. I with need to setup a jackshaft.

[katoranger]

Hydraulic wheel motors are only good for about 200 rpm. I would need a very large sprocket. The little ones on the reels turn faster, but I don't know if the torque is there.

Another option is to remove the golf car rear end and mount the wheel motors to the rear. I think I would find some larger diameter wheels and tires to increase the top speed. The specs for the jacobsen mower said 6.6 mph top speed. This is on 18" tires.

Best option may be to find a faster spinning motor.

[Weldangrind]

I wonder if you can sell the motor.

[katoranger]

Its in the parts pile. Not sure of the condition. Might be a good core.

[katoranger]

The new plan is to remove the rear axle assembly and use the whole jacobsen mower drive motor assembly on the back without suspension. Will use larger tires to get more speed.

[Weldangrind]

I'll certainly follow that build.

[SpudRider]

X2. :)

[katoranger]

We are suppose to warm back up this weekend. Axle swapping may start.

[katoranger]

We made a little progress this afternoon. The jacobsen reel mower was cut in half so that the section with the engine and pump could be moved inside. Tomorrow I plan to cut the drive section off and move it inside.

I volunteered to help teach small engines for the 4-H clubs. We may be able to pull this off before fair time.

[katoranger]

Emilie was making our to-do list in the second picture. We changed oil on the big gulp and cleaned it out for our Christmas trip. Filled up with $2.09 gas.

[SpudRider]

I wondered what Emilie was up to. ;)

http://www.chinariders.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=2097&stc=1&d=1419126930

[katoranger]

Notice Buford was telling her to buy cat food. This must have been before we used the vacuum.

[katoranger]

This is what we are using for the donar. I bought two from the local golf course in July.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HfSYwRQq7fs

[katoranger]

Dad got the hydraulics off one for his custom cub cadet project. I plan to try and use as much of the mower hydraulics as possible. There is already a cylinder to run a dump box and a 3 point type lift.

[SpudRider]

Notice Buford was telling her to buy cat food. This must have been before we used the vacuum.

I hadn't noticed Buford in the background, Allen. Thank you for mentioning his presence. Buford is always careful to keep his priorities straight. :)


:lol:

[Weldangrind]

Emilie was making our to-do list in the second picture. We changed oil on the big gulp and cleaned it out for our Christmas trip. Filled up with $2.09 gas.

My Dad reported $0.80 per litre in Edmonton, which is roughly $3.20 per gallon. We haven't seen prices that low in 15 years.

[Weldangrind]

This is what we are using for the donar. I bought two from the local golf course in July.

That's interesting. Were they runners?

[Weldangrind]

Dad got the hydraulics off one for his custom cub cadet project. I plan to try and use as much of the mower hydraulics as possible. There is already a cylinder to run a dump box and a 3 point type lift.

I'm quite intrigued by that. What will you use for controls?

[katoranger]

I got both to run, one was complete enough to drive. My plan is to use the controls from the mower. Each reel had its own spool with forward and reverse. I think I can use one the dump and one for the lift. The third may a remote for a log splitter.

[Weldangrind]

If you build a log splitter, please start a new thread. I'd be all over that project.

[katoranger]

That will be down the road. Don't really need one, but why not.

[Weldangrind]

Why not, indeed. I've thought of a similar project, using a spare 120VAC power pack I have. I think it's good for about 12 tons, which should be adequate. The part I haven't figured out is the controls, because they're quite expensive to buy new. I'd either need some strong springs to retract the cylinder, or a dual-action valve.

[katoranger]

www.surpluscenter.com has lots of stuff. Still expensive. We visit the farm and steal parts off of old machinery.

[Weldangrind]

That's what I need to learn how to do, and why I'm so interested in your hydraulic projects.

[cheesy]

That's what I need to learn how to do, and why I'm so interested in your hydraulic projects.

Weld, hydraulics aren't that hard to fathom. Most important rule is that everything liquid must get back to the tank. Things get very hot, then they get very messy when it doesn't.

Kato is right in getting all you can from a farm boneyard. Valves, fittings, hoses, pumps, and motors are mucho, mucho expensive.

From what I read about your plans for a log splitter, is the cylinder single or double acting? That would determine the type of control valve.

All of our hydraulic power packs are capable of 5 to 10gpm at 2000psi with 20hp gas or diesel engines. We make an electric one but it it requires 240/480v 3ph to run.

I'm done hi-jacking this thread.:)

[Weldangrind]

Weld, hydraulics aren't that hard to fathom. Most important rule is that everything liquid must get back to the tank. Things get very hot, then they get very messy when it doesn't.

Kato is right in getting all you can from a farm boneyard. Valves, fittings, hoses, pumps, and motors are mucho, mucho expensive.

From what I read about your plans for a log splitter, is the cylinder single or double acting? That would determine the type of control valve.

All of our hydraulic power packs are capable of 5 to 10gpm at 2000psi with 20hp gas or diesel engines. We make an electric one but it it requires 240/480v 3ph to run.

I'm done hi-jacking this thread.:)

Since we're more or less on topic, I presume our good friend Kato won't mind. :D

I'm familiar with hydraulics in terms of rebuilding cylinders and control valves at work, but not in the design of systems. I have a 120VAC power pack that is capable of about 12 tons, and I think it would split smaller logs, particularly soft woods.

I'd prefer double-acting, and I looked at a control at Princess Auto that I think would do the trick. Like this one: http://princessauto.com/en/detail/directional-control-valve-with-kick-off/A-p8382665e They're not giving them away.

I don't want to use hydraulic power to overcome a return spring, hence my preference for double-acting. What I haven't yet learned is how to calculate the correct cylinder for my application, with perhaps an 18" stroke.

Much research to do...

[cheesy]

I have a piece a paper that says I is edumacated in hydraulic systems. So I is able to hepl.;)

So, with a double acting cylinder, you'd want that exact 3-way valve. But, Cylinder diameter is more important than stroke and I doubt you'd need to be any larger than 3", probably less. A lot more will depend on the capibilities and capacities of your power pack. We'd need to know the system pressure and flow. Plus the capacity of the tank. I ask, because OTC/Power Team makes a small power pack, the PG302, that has small 2 smoke engine on it. It is also capable of 12T but because of its low flow and small tank, it takes a loooooong time to fill a system and you could go have a nice lunch before it extended a large cylinder. Great for a porta power, kinda sucky for a log splitter.

I'd think a tank at 4 gallons minimum with a return filter, 2.5" cylinder w\16" stroke, 3-way directional valve w\open center, system pressure/flow at 1300/1500 psi at 4-5gpm, and -6 hoses would be a decent splitter. If my in my head math is correct, you'd be getting 6400-7400psi at the end of the ram.

Something to chew on, Weld. Just need to know more about the power pack.

[Weldangrind]

I'll pull the specs off it and get back to you.

[katoranger]

Weld, I don't know what I am doing. We just put stuff together.

[cheesy]

Weld, I don't know what I am doing. We just put stuff together.

And what's wrong with that?

I work on equipment worth hundreds of thousands of dollars, so I needed to get that piece of paper. There are advantages to having that piece of paper....

Customer-It don't work.

Me-Lemmesee.

fifteen minutes go by

Me-All better. That'll be $500.

Customer-$500? But you only turned one screw.

Me-Yeah. $50 to turn the screw. $400 for knowing which screw to turn. And $50 for looking over my shoulder.:D

[katoranger]

I think the system I have is 2200 psi. Not sure what gpm the pump is.