We've got a runner

[JPG1911]

Howdy everyone! I've been away for almost a year, but I've finally had some time to return to the Chonda. When I last posted in July of last year, I had just gotten some parts in, and gotten the bike to crank up for the first time. Around the same time, I picked up a neglected Harley Sportster that has been occupying most of my free time and budget.

Restoring the Harley to running and riding condition has been no small endeavor, the best part is how much I've learned about motorcycles. After getting it back on the road, I managed to get 100 miles out of it before the primary chain tensioner broke and prompted a clutch/primary overhaul. During the downtime waiting for parts, I got bored, and finally made some room in the shed and brought the Chonda home - she had been living in a friend's shed for quite awhile.

I dove into the wiring and discovered lots of previous owner "fixes" that I had to unfix. I finally have full electrical function, and everything works like it's supposed to!! The fuel petcock was leaking when on, but I was able to slow the leak to a dribble - not safe by any stretch of the imagination, but it was enough to allow me to tinker with the bike enough to get it started again.

The first thing I noticed was the astronomically high idle speed. I would guess that it was ideling around 2500-3000 RPM. I could let go of the clutch and the bike would take off nicely. I finally figured out how to adjust the idle at the throttle assembly, and obtained a nice idle ~900RPM. The 30 Mikuni carb probably needs to be jetted a little higher, but I was ripping up the street into 5th gear with no problems. I weigh in around 250lbs, so I was pleasantly surprised. There is no speedo cable on the bike, but I would guess that I was hitting around 60mph, and it felt like the bike had more to give, if I wanted it. I rode all around my rural neighborhood, testing and tweaking things, and the bike was running great. The only issue I was having was starting it, I had to hook up jumper cables from my truck, and even then I couldn't get the motor to spin more than 1 revolution, so I would use the button to prime the engine, then kick it over. This method worked marginally well when the engine was cold, when it was hot, I could kick start it with one or two kicks. What I previously thought was a valve timing issue coupled with high compression turned out to be a weak starter solenoid. I ordered a new battery, new starter solenoid, and that problem was solved, the starter is now able to turn the engine over in the conventional way. Before I got the new batt and solenoid however, the fuel leak had gotten worse, and I tried to tighten up the petcock fitting again, only to have it strip right off and pour a full tank of fuel right out of the bottom. Luckily I had an oil drain pan withing arms' reach and kept most of it from spilling on the ground.

Now I am once again waiting on parts. I have a new valve/inspection cover coming, to replace the cracked and leaking one, as well as a grips/throttle sleeve/throttle assembly/throttle cable set I found on eBay for $15 <here> (http://www.ebay.com/itm/221664167746?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT), LED turn signals (http://www.ebay.com/itm/171336532808?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT), a UNI pod air filter, petcock, fuel filter, fuel line, mirrors and mirror clamps. Several of the items are coming from China, and show delivery dates of 4/17 - 5/23, so I will just have to wait.

Once I have those parts, I am going to try for a Vermont license plate that I should be able to transfer to North Carolina *fingers crossed*

Here's a current pic
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag52/JPG1911/IMAG2560_zpsmypmb0kj.jpg (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/JPG1911/media/IMAG2560_zpsmypmb0kj.jpg.html)

One more thing I want to do to the bike is replace the wimpy stock headlight. After much consideration and looking at different options, I think I have settled on this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/321640621994?_trksid=p2055119.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)

I also plan to paint the engine and both wheels with black high gloss engine enamel, and paint the remaining shiny bits and front forks with either hi-heat BBQ paint, or plasti-dip to match the side plastics and fenders that I have already painted. There are a few worn areas of the frame and handlebars that I'd like to paint as well, and the seat needs recovered or replaced. That's about it for now. One thing's for sure, I wouldn't have gotten nearly this far without the awesome people on this forum. :thanks:From the bottom of my heart!!!

[JPG1911]

Future mod list I plan to pursue:

Better exhaust system
Properly Jet the Carb
Stiffer fork springs and new fork oil or possibly swap in Honda forks - if that's possible
Do away with factory speedo in favor of Trail Tech Vapor
DRC edge tail light
Larger capacity fuel tank

[SpudRider]

You have done well. :tup:

[guttafixit]

Nicely done. Looks good. And you gave me an idea for my front blinkers. I wasn't sure on blinkers like yours or the ones that hang off the handle bars. I like the ones you have.

[Weldangrind]

Nice work. I bet that it'll start more easily once you rejet.

Maybe instead of new springs, you could experiment with pvc preload spacers and new oil. That might meet your needs.

One reason your bike hits around 60 is that it's an OHC engine. They out-rev the pushrod motors.

[Weldangrind]

Please feel free to start a thread on your Sporty.

[JPG1911]

Thanks Weld, I plan to pick up some jets this weekend, and see if I need to change the float height. I'm also picking up some fork oil today b/c the Harley needs it too, what size PVC spacers should I make? I have tons of schedule 40 and 80 in 3/8", 1/2", and 3/4" diameters in my shop.

Yes, It was definitely rev happy :)

I will happily start a Sporty thread over in the other rides section, I have lots of pics

[Weldangrind]

Not sure. Start by determining the spring diameter, and then match the PVC; I'd try a 1" spacer and go from there. For fork oil, I use Valvoline Maxlife ATF, per Spud's exhaustive research.

Looking forward to the Sporty thread.

[JPG1911]

Well. My eBay app just confirmed that the petcock and uni filter are waiting in my mailbox, maybe I'll have time to swing by the powersport store on the way home and snag some jets and do a little tinkering tonight. I'm at sea level, iirc the recommendation is a 25 slow and 120 main. is that about righ?

[Weldangrind]

I'd go 110 main and 25 slow. If it's still cold blooded, try a 27.5 slow.

[JPG1911]

I will give that combination a try Weld, unfortunately I ordered a petcock for a XR250, it looked the same, but had a larger tank fitting that was not compatible with my tank. I will have to send it back and get a different one that fits my bike. Perhaps I should order one for an XR200. I made the same mistake with the valve inspection cover, the parts are very similar, and are easily mistaken for one another in photos. If I get a chance, I'll take the old one by the powersports store tomorrow and see if they have anything compatible in stock, man I hate waiting on parts in the mail when I know a ride is one part away.

[guttafixit]

Not sure if this helps but this is what I used to buy my new petcock. Since when I got the bike it was missing.

http://www.kandstech.com/productreleases/newprod178.pdf

I measured my tank before I ordered it and it fit perfect with no leaks.

[JPG1911]

Thanks for the suggestion!

Unfortunately, my petcock utilizes a threaded fitting. I purchased one that said it fit multiple XR bikes, it looked identical to mine, except that it had screws in the face instead of rivets like mine. I thought this would be a nice upgrade since it was serviceable/rebuildable vs the sealed/riveted face on mine. When it arrived, the body of the unit is identical to mine, but the threaded fitting was slightly larger in diameter, and the filter tube was also slightly larger. After quite a bit of searching around, I found this one (http://www.ebay.com/itm/171242343410?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT) on ebay. When looking at the pictures of this unit side by side with the incorrect one I purchased, there are subtle differences that one can see between the two. The one I have linked to above has the slightly smaller fitting, slightly smaller filter, and is riveted, just like mine. The seller is US based, so I should have it in my hands by the end of the week!!

One other odd issue is vexing me. I mentioned above that I had replaced the battery and starter solenoid, and that doing so had solved the weak starting issue. It's back. I have been doing a lot with the wiring lately, and all I can figure is that I must have a weak ground somewhere. When I first put the new solenoid on, the starter was able to turn the engine over normally - this was the first time it has done this. The part is only a few days old, and I have only turned the engine over a few times since installing it. When I was testing the clutch interlock yesterday, the same condition recurred. Even with a fully charged battery and a brand new starter solenoid, the engine will turn one revolution, then get stuck. If I hold down the starter button, the solenoid will whine. I can "bump" the engine over by quickly pressing the starter button repeatedly, but it won't spin anymore like it did the first time after I changed the solenoid. Also, possibly related, the headlight quit working, but the bulb is fine.

GTG for now.

[JPG1911]

Update* I received the new petcock today and it fit wonderfully. I hastily threw the tank back on with the new petcock and hooked it up to the carb. Slapped the seat on and tried to start the engine. I'm having the same issue with extremely hard starting. I tried to start it with the button until I got the solenoid too hot, then worked up quite a sweat trying to get it kick started. No dice. Luckily, my driveway is quite steep, and I was able to get a rolling start and let out the clutch to get it cranked. The first few tries, the rear tire just locked up and slid. I had to sit very far back on the seat - almost where a passenger would sit - to get enough traction to turn the engine over. This is an effective method of starting for now, but I will have to work out the starter issues before I begin commuting on it.

Anywho, I tweaked the carb a little, and got it running decently. There is a phillips head screw on the right side of the Mikuni carb that I believe to be the mixture screw, after I got the engine good and warmed up with several laps around the block, I tried running it in half a turn, but it was bogging down. Running the screw back out 1 full turn seemed to give me better throttle response, I assume clockwise(in) is leaning the mixture and counter-clockwise(out) is enrichening the mixture?

I have set a good idle, and set the mixture probably as good as I can for now, I will have more tuning to do when I get some new jets to play with. Oh, and the headlight(wiring) is just fine, it just doesn't work unless the bike is running, which I guess is normal.

I still have no working speedo, but I turned on a very accurate GPS app on my phone and went for a full throttle run, I am happy to report that the 11 year old, previously neglected bike hauled my 252 pound butt to 59mph before I had to slow down to turn, but there was definitely more in there. I am confident it will hit 65+ on a longer straightaway, maybe more when I re-jet it. I really have no desire to go that fast on this bike, but it will eventually be a commuter and I live off a 55mph road that I will have to travel 6 miles on at least twice daily. It's nice to know I won't be getting passed on my way to and from work like the folks who ride scooters up and down this road.


I have some pics of the new LED turn signals and a few other new parts I installed, I would throw them up on photobucket right now, but I'm about to go on a kid-free vacation with Mrs. 1911 tomorrow, and I still gotta pack. I will post pic laden updates of the progress when I get back next week. I'm also due for a quarterly bonus in a few weeks and the rumor is that we hit all our numbers, looks like the coffers will be plenty full enough to get some more new parts for the Chonda. Right now I'm thinking headlight, taillight, trailtech vapor, and tires. Perhaps there will even be enough left over for a new exhaust.

See y'all next week!

[Weldangrind]

The first few tries, the rear tire just locked up and slid. I had to sit very far back on the seat - almost where a passenger would sit - to get enough traction to turn the engine over.

Try selecting a higher gear when you bump-start the bike, so it doesn't lock up. Second or even third gear should do the trick.


There is a phillips head screw on the right side of the Mikuni carb that I believe to be the mixture screw, after I got the engine good and warmed up with several laps around the block, I tried running it in half a turn, but it was bogging down. Running the screw back out 1 full turn seemed to give me better throttle response, I assume clockwise(in) is leaning the mixture and counter-clockwise(out) is enrichening the mixture?

The Phillips screw on the right is the idle screw. The pilot mixture screw is underneath the carb, right where the carb meets the intake tube. I bet if you back it out 1/4 turn, you'll have an easier time starting the bike.

[JPG1911]

Finally got back over to the powersport shop today and got some jets. The shop I went to mainly sells quads, jet ski's, and Polaris side by sides. They said they don't normally stock jets and parts for the 30mm mikuni, but they allowed me to look through their whole box of spare parts. I spent the better part of an hour meticulously checking and sorting all the jets, lol. In the end, I couldn't find a 110 main and 25 slow as recommended. I ended up with a 105, 112.5, and 115 main, and a 30 slow for $12. I opted to start with the 115/30 combo with the pilot mixture screw 2 full turns out. Starting is markedly easier, and power has drastically increased. Top speed has fallen off by a few mph, but I'll happily trade that for the dramatic improvement in acceleration.

With the stock jetting, I had decent enough acceleration, and I managed to find a long enough straightaway to test my top speed. I managed to hit 62mph
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag52/JPG1911/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-05-13-12-14-42_zpsb2ogzg1a.png (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/JPG1911/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-05-13-12-14-42_zpsb2ogzg1a.png.html)

The torque produced with the new jetting configuration is enough to slip the clutch a bit on hard shifts and nearly lift the front tire at WOT in 1st and 2nd, but I was only able to hit about 57mph on the top end. I suspect a sprocket change will have me in the mid 60's which is right where I want to be. I live off a 55mph road and I'd like to have a little room to escape if necessary. I will have to dive into some older threads and explore sprocket configurations. I remember reading quite a bit about it on here before, but can't seem to find those threads now.

I had previously replaced the broken front turn signals with LED units that worked great. I bought a set of 4, and today, I got around to pulling the luggage rack and rear end apart to replace the rear turn signals. The rears worked fine before, but I wanted to upgrade them to LED as well, when I hooked them up and tested them, I no longer have turn signals, but caution lights. Selecting either right or left with the switch makes all 4 of them blink now. I am certain that they are wired correctly, but I'm not sure if it has anything to do with the LEDs themelves, or if my switch just went bad.

That's about it for now, I still need to order my new headlight and mounting brackets, then I will have lots more wiring to clean up. After that, I plan to pick up the trail tech vapor and some softer tires, and I should have a great little commuter bike!

[SpudRider]

You need to replace your turn signal flasher with an LED flasher. You can probably find an LED flasher at your local auto parts store, or you can order one from SuperBrightLEDs.com. :)

https://www.superbrightleds.com/moreinfo/flashers-load-resistors/lf1-s-flat-universal-motorcycle-electronic-flasher/787/842/

[ripcuda]

Nice progress! Your engine is an OHC 200, right?

Oh... and what app do you use for your speed tests?

Cheers!

[Weldangrind]

I bet if you throw the 112.5 in there with no other changes, you'll get your top speed back.

[JPG1911]

Thanks Spud, I was hoping it would be that simple, I'll pick one up.

Rip, yes its a Zongshen ZS169FML ohc hoindoid 200(223)
The app in the screenshot is Google's "My Tracks"

I'll give the 112.5 a try!

[humanbeing]

...itJPG1911s a Zongshen ZS169FML ohc hoindoid 200(223)...
It's NOT a 223 (15mm wrist pin) http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=35517374143
ZS169FML is different animal http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=36744024764

[JPG1911]

Ah! I stand corrected. Thanks for the info. I can't recall where I got that (mis)information, but I'm always thankful for correct information. That's one of the things I love most about this forum

[JPG1911]

I foolishly left the jets sitting on a shop towel that was within reach of my children, one of them must have picked it up, and after 3 days of searching, I have deemed the 112.5 jet to be lost to the depths of the backyard forever. Since I'll need to purchase a new one, do you think I should get another 112.5, or a 110 as was originally suggested, or both? The bike runs much better with the current 115/30 jetting than it did with the stock 100/2o setup, but there is still a slight bog at around 1/4 throttle, and it won't start without being fully choked unless the engine is fully warmed. If I shut it off and try to restart it after as little as 10 minutes, it has to be choked. If it is cold and choked, or hot and unchoked, it tends to start on the 2nd kick, but occasionally it is quite a workout to get it cranked. I have also been fiddling with the idle mixture screw, but I haven't been able to find it's happy place.

Also, I decided to try to rig my speedo cable from a XR250. It threads onto the speedo stem just fine, but I suppose the XR250 had a different securing mechanism at the hub than my bike requires.
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag52/JPG1911/IMG_20150517_103005_zpsrogcdbyh.jpg (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/JPG1911/media/IMG_20150517_103005_zpsrogcdbyh.jpg.html)

This worked surprisingly well! I've put about 15 miles on the bike since attaching it, and it's very stable and solid. I don't recommend securing your speedo cable with zip ties, but if you're in a pinch, it does work.

Comparing the speedo to GPS, it appears to read about 4mph high, an indicated 45mph registers as 41mph with the GPS. The same holds true at an indicated 35mph, and at 55mph. I can live with that until I get a Trail Tech Vapor, it might even help to keep me from speeding

[ripcuda]

What does your spark plug look like... regarding rich/lean running?
Are you still 2 turns-out on the mixture screw? Adjust that to you highest idle speed is achieved... the reset idle to desired.
Bog/stumble or hesitation/hickup at 1/4 throttle?

If your plug is showing black/rich... you would probably benefit from that 112.5 main jet.

Cheers!

[JPG1911]

Plug looks pretty good, I would call it a good brown
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag52/JPG1911/IMG_20150520_194455_1_zpscynkp0ot.jpg (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/JPG1911/media/IMG_20150520_194455_1_zpscynkp0ot.jpg.html)

At two full turns out, it was running rich. I had a slight amount of black smoke from the exhust and the bogging was worse. I ran the screw in a quarter turn, so I am now at 1.75 turns out. I plan to experiment a little more and maybe run the screw in another 1/8th of a turn or 1/4 turn to see how that does.

[Weldangrind]

The slow jet is responsible for the idle circuit, but you can crutch a too-small slow jet by backing the pilot mixture screw out a bit more. If you have the screw out more than two turns, the slow jet is too small. The pilot mixture screw is actually responsible for the transition from the slow jet to the main jet.

I'd buy an assorted jet kit if possible, so you have a 110 and a 112.5.

[Weldangrind]

BTW, the main jet will have no effect on the choke position while starting. Only the slow jet (and pilot mixture screw) will.

[JPG1911]

Excellent information! I will pick up the jets this week if I can find them in town. Do you think going to a 0.035 or 0.040 slow jet will allow it to start easier without being choked? Or is that too much? Going from 2 turns out to 1 3/4 turns out didn't have any noticeable impact on ease of starting, but it runs and idles much smoother.

[ripcuda]

I don't think you would want the idle speed so rich as to never need choke when cold starting. Ideally you want it so no choke is ever needed on a warm/hot restart... and only needed on a cold start for a short period till it can idle w/o it. Too much richer than that and it'll be boggy or feel lazy throttling around just off idle.

If your having to choke it after a 10min cool down after running... yeah, that sounds like a little more fuel in the pilot could help.

Adjust your mixture screw so you get the fastest idle speed with a warm idling engine. Then readjust the idle (not mixture) screw to desired idle again. If you lost count of turns on the mix screw... turn off engine, screw mix screw in while counting until seated (gently). Then back it back out the same number of turns you just counted. Somewhere between 1/2 and 2 turns out should be fine. < 1/2... too rich - downsize pilot jet. > 2... too lean - upsize pilot jet. If you change jets... gotta do it all again.

I think your plug looks good. That's a read after taking the bike for a spin, right (not just sitting there idling)? So it's more a mid-circuit to main jet read verses idle circuit. That said, I'd go with it... leaving it unchanged. Perhaps your lost few mph are because you're no longer too lean. Lean is mean... but not good for longevity.

Just my thoughts. I too am chasing jetting perfection on my PZ30 carb. It is a PITA. I'll be happy to get it dialed in.

Cheers!

[JPG1911]

Yes, that plug was pulled after a 5 mile ride. I'm no stranger to reading plugs, and I think it looks quite healthy. I agree with your thoughts on choking it when cold, thing is, it doesn't matter if it's cold or hot, I have to choke it, it starts and barely runs, I have to immediately unchoke it, then it runs fine.

Also, I cannot access the pilot screw with the carb mounted, I have to loosen it and rotate it in order to get a small bit in there. I saw where another member had heated a screwdriver and bent it to allow him to make adjustments with the carb still mounted, maybe I'll try that tonight.

[ripcuda]

If you have to choke it to start when warm or hot... yeah, that sounds too lean. The other end of the that spectrum being it's so rich at idle it never needs choke to start.

I hear you about accessing the mixture screw. On the PZ30 carb, the screw sticks down far enough to JBweld a nut on it... which I just did. Should make turning it a little easier. It was very tough to get even a flat-blade hex bit up there. On the Mikuni, the screw is recessed further into the carb... so sounds like a pain.

I wouldn't bend a screwdriver. You would only get about 15degrees of rotation before the screw was turned in such a way you couldn't get the bent screwdriver back into the slot again. Maybe some sort of holder for the flat-blade bit, where you could reposition the bit... if you have the clearance.

Cheers!

[humanbeing]

Invest a proper tool http://www.ebay.com/itm/280877525162 if had many bikes...
---
Chinese mechanic often use these basic tool:
idle: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=16939986674 | mixture: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=3292963201

[FreyStarr]

Another thing to do is remove the pilot jet.

Find a drill bit that is the same size as the head of the pilot jet

Find a bolt that is bigger than head of the pilot jet, M4 should work.

Clamp the bolt in a vise and drill out the end of the bolt.

Mix up epoxy and put the pilot jet into the hole you've drilled.

Let the epoxy cure.

Then get a very small drill bit. Drill through the side of the bolt at the end so that you drill through the bolt and the pilot jet.

Put a piece of wire or break the drill bit and mix up some more epoxy and put the post through this hole.

You now have an indestructible extended fuel screw.

Another option if soldering/brazing is more your cup of tea.

Use brass pipe from a hobby/model rail road shop and braze a T section on the end of your pilot jet.


Makes tuning easy. You can go to a straight road and drive up and down and pull over and make micro adjustments :tup:

[JPG1911]

Great suggestions!! I will see what I can come up with, but I'm liking the idea of brazing a T onto the screw.

I saved that screwdriver in my wish list :)
I used to have a right angle close quarters screwdriver called "the skew-driver" that would probably work perfectly. It's a similar tool but shorter and has interchangeable bits. I also have a right angle drill chuck that might actually work... if I can find it, and take the side handle off.

[JPG1911]

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Install-Bay-HW-9002-Skewdriver-Pro-Kit-With-Heavy-Duty-26-Hardened-Tool-Bits-/291470979465?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43dd063189

[ripcuda]

On my bike... picture one of those hex bits that go in the skew-driver or a multi-tip screw driver. When I put a hex bit with a flat-blade tip in the mixture screw, the other end of the hex bit is touching the starter. I have a fat thumbs width of room to maneuver.

I like your ideas FreyStar... but as a correction, it's the mixture screw that you modify somehow to make it easier to turn/adjust, not the pilot jet. The pilot jet is inside the carb bowl.

Cheers!

[Weldangrind]

I don't think you would want the idle speed so rich as to never need choke when cold starting. Ideally you want it so no choke is ever needed on a warm/hot restart... and only needed on a cold start for a short period till it can idle w/o it. Too much richer than that and it'll be boggy or feel lazy throttling around just off idle.

If your having to choke it after a 10min cool down after running... yeah, that sounds like a little more fuel in the pilot could help.

Adjust your mixture screw so you get the fastest idle speed with a warm idling engine. Then readjust the idle (not mixture) screw to desired idle again. If you lost count of turns on the mix screw... turn off engine, screw mix screw in while counting until seated (gently). Then back it back out the same number of turns you just counted. Somewhere between 1/2 and 2 turns out should be fine. < 1/2... too rich - downsize pilot jet. > 2... too lean - upsize pilot jet. If you change jets... gotta do it all again.

I think your plug looks good. That's a read after taking the bike for a spin, right (not just sitting there idling)? So it's more a mid-circuit to main jet read verses idle circuit. That said, I'd go with it... leaving it unchanged. Perhaps your lost few mph are because you're no longer too lean. Lean is mean... but not good for longevity.

Just my thoughts. I too am chasing jetting perfection on my PZ30 carb. It is a PITA. I'll be happy to get it dialed in.

Cheers!

All very well said. I agree.

[JPG1911]

New jets are on the way, and I have found a happy mixture screw setting that works OK with the current jetting, but I have another issue...

A few weeks ago while testing my top speed, the headlight cut out under WOT in 4th gear(very high RPM). It came back on as soon as I let off the throttle to shift into 5th. This happened one other time under similar conditions. I don't think I lost spark or any other electrical components while this condition occured, but can't be 100% sure. The headlight has now stopped working altogether. I have tested it with a multimeter, as well as removed the bulb and visually inspected the elements, both are in tact and have resistance.

On my bike, the headlight only comes on when the engine is running. At this time, all other lights are working, it's only the headlight that doesn't work. I would assume this has something to do with the magneto, or the voltage rectifier, but I know little about either. Is there an easy way to check? Or a hard way, I'm not too opposed to that either:p

I am about to buy a new headlight for the bike, but want to make sure that it will work when it gets here. One other odd thing about the headlight wiring... Ever since I got the bike running, the lights (all of them) only work when the headlight switch is in it's middle position, which I would think is for running lights only. If I switch it to the fully on position, all lights go out. If I switch it all the way down(I assume this is the off position) all lights go out. It doesn't matter if the engine is running or not. I know that something is not right here, but I have yet to figure out what that might be. Perhaps it's the switch, I have not dissasembled it yet, but may do that tonight.

[Adjuster]

You have a bad switch or bad wiring. Nothing is wrong with the mechanicals per say. You just need to go through the switch and wiring and find your gremlin.


/

[jct842]

All lights on but head light untill engine starts is exactly how a 07 majesty scooter is wired. They are using a diode to switch the light on. john

[Weldangrind]

They are using a diode to switch the light on. john

Please dumb that down for me.

[JPG1911]

Interesting development.

While riding around with the kids in the street this afternoon, I noticed that the neutral indicator light was so dim I could barely see it in the daylight, it is usually very bright green. I got off the bike and realized that none of the lights were (visibly) working. I had previously installed a permanent trickle charger port on the bike
http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag52/JPG1911/IMG_20150527_202859_zpsutgnsxnq.jpg (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/JPG1911/media/IMG_20150527_202859_zpsutgnsxnq.jpg.html)
but since I always kick start the bike due to the starter not being able to turn the engine more than one revolution, I haven't used it(the charger) at all. I have ridden around 125-150 miles(estimated) and never once charged the battery.

When I plugged the trickle charger in, the lights all came one again. So obviously, my battery was totally dead. I didn't bother to put a meter on it, but I'm sure that it got dangerously low - it may not even charge back up to 12 volts again after dipping so low.

Being curious, I started the bike with the charger still plugged in, and I could see a very faint glow from the headlight bulb - I'll check again once it's fully charged, but I'm sure the headlight will work fine.

This begs the question; If the magneto is not charging the battery, how is it able to provide enough energy for spark? I would think that if it isn't able to charge the battery, it wouldn't be able to run the CDI and coil.

I am understanding more and more each day why the previous owner gave up on the bike, and gave it to me, lol. I'm not giving up, I'm extremely determined. This is going to be a reliable commuter bike come hell or high water!

[Adjuster]

I am betting there is nothing wrong with your electrical and charging system. I am guessing you have an internally shorted out battery. A new battery will likely solve all your electrical and charging issues.


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[Weldangrind]

This begs the question; If the magneto is not charging the battery, how is it able to provide enough energy for spark? I would think that if it isn't able to charge the battery, it wouldn't be able to run the CDI and coil.

I agree with Adjuster, that it is likely the battery that is causing the issues.

To confirm, start the bike and place the probes of your multimeter (set to DC volts), and you should see a number north of 13.2.

[Weldangrind]

I am understanding more and more each day why the previous owner gave up on the bike, and gave it to me, lol. I'm not giving up, I'm extremely determined. This is going to be a reliable commuter bike come hell or high water!

BTW, you've got a good attitude! :tup:

[SpudRider]

BTW, you've got a good attitude! :tup:

X2. :tup: You have the China Riders spirit. :)

[JPG1911]

Thanks for the kind words. I walk the fine line between optimism and realism every day, but I learned a long time ago that pessimism never pays. In the immortal words of miss Kimberly "Sweet Brown" Wilkins - Ain't nobody got time for that !!!



I bought a chinese battery off ebay for $17, so I'm not terribly shocked or surprised that it's a dud. I'll get a new one come payday, along with a few other parts I've been putting off. Maybe now would be a good time to finally replace the cracked, road rashed, tire-rubbed, battery box that is currently held closed by several zip-ties. I can't help but notice that a slightly larger size code battery may fit in there...

The headlight did not ever get any brighter, it just barely had a glow even after the trickle charger declared the battery fully charged - I still did not put a meter on it, not that it matters much at this point, I just keep forgetting to bring my meter home from work.

[JPG1911]

Grabbed my meter

Resting battery voltage = 12.51
Start bike = 12.24
Rev engine to ~3000rpm = 12.27
Turn lights off(engine running) = 12.31
Turn lights back on =12.24
Turn lights and engine off =12.40
Turn lights back on (engine off) =12.23

Bike has run about 4 miles since trickle charge

I think the $17 China battery is just fine, and my charging system is at fault

[Adjuster]

Yep looks like something wrong with the charging. Hopefully just a bad connection easy fix.


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[Weldangrind]

If not a bad connection, I hope it's the regulator. Cheap and easy fix.