Qlink XF200 Shifts Horribly

[The Thinker]

Hey everyone,

I have had my Qlink XF200 for about 6 months now and have over 2100km on the bike. When I first purchased the bike it shifted like a dream. The slightest amount of pressure would make it shift and it was smooth as silk. Now over the past months I have noticed the bike has been getting gradually "clunkier" when shifting.I first noticed this around 600km at which point I changed the oil, adjusted the clutch cable slack, checked the valves, and adjusted the chain tension. After that the bike was shifting better, but it wasn't as good as at first. Since then it has gotten worse and after my ride today I can't take it anymore. Riding the bike has become more of a chore than a fun activity due to the complete inconsistency and force needed to change gears.

When shifting, the bike makes a very audible clunk sound and the whole bike shakes. The amount of force needed to shift the gear is ridiculously high compared to when I bought the bike. I have read many different things about linkages, clutch plates, etc but wanted to come here and ask you guys for advice before tearing my bike apart searching for the answer.

[Adjuster]

Using the correct oil? You cant use automotive oil with a friction modifier and most automotive oils do contain a friction modifier.


/

[The Thinker]

I'm running Delo 400LE 15w-40 diesel oil. I've always used it in my bikes and have never had a problem.

[culcune]

That sounds like the correct oil, but your bike uses a Suzuki-related engine, not a Hondoid. What oil does the manufacturer recommend? I always know I am approaching my 600+/- miles oil change when my bike does not go into neutral smoothly, and shifting it is, as you described, approaching a chore!

[SpudRider]

I'm running Delo 400LE 15w-40 diesel oil. I've always used it in my bikes and have never had a problem.

I agree. :) The 15W/40 motor oil is excellent, and I'm sure it is not causing any shifting problems. :)

[The Thinker]

I'm not sure what the engine style has to do with the oil type, I always thought I needed to use a good quality oil of the correct weight without any friction modifiers so the wet clutch will work correctly. If anything using an oil with friction modifiers would just cause my clutch to slip and burn up however I seem to be having the opposite problem. The manufacturer recommends anything between 10w-40 to 20w-50 depending on the climate I presume.

[Weldangrind]

I also agree that Delo is a good choice. Are you using conventional Delo? If so, perhaps you'd care to try a litre of synthetic, to see if there is any improvement.

[The Thinker]

This is the exact stuff I'm using http://www.amazon.com/Chevron-38623-Delo-15W-40-Motor/dp/B003ZWD73M

Just to make 100% sure everything is set properly, how much wiggle room should there be between the end of the cable and the slack adjuster on the clutch lever. I have read it should be set at 1mm but that was on a GSXR forum. Right now mine is probably 1-2mm of wiggle room.

Is there a possibility of clutch plate warping with such low mileage?

[humanbeing]

http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/showthread.php?430

[SpudRider]

As always, thanks for posting the great link, Humanbeing. :tup:

[Weldangrind]

Very good link.

Thinker, to respond to your question, I look for about 5mm of gap between the perch and the hand lever. More or less will be required, depending on the bike.

If something is actually worn, my guess would be the Clutch Pushrod Cam, per the link from HB. That's really easy to inspect by removing the cover.

[The Thinker]

I agree, thank you for that great link. My bike doesn't creep in neutral though, however I will still remove the cover and check all components. If this is the issue, where can I get the replacement parts?

[humanbeing]

How deep is your pocket? Genuine parts ALWAYS marked high in states.
Compatible clutch plates / bearing (10x24x2) ... can sourced at reasonable price from fleabay.
taobao + agent is the LAST savior for genuine parts:
http://shop34613605.taobao.com http://shop36143366.taobao.com http://shop68659299.taobao.com

[The Thinker]

Being a senior in high school, my pockets are as shallow as the kiddie pool in my neighbors backyard. Because of this I have always done things myself versus taking it to professionals which has proven to have its benefits and drawbacks.

I was just working on my bike, and discovered the back wheel is absurdly loose. I check the bolts and they are all tight, but then I notice one of the spokes is broken and all the rest are loose. I guess its time to buy new spokes, but where do I get them from. I already know I am not going to be able to afford to get my wheel laced and trued by a shop, so I guess its time to start reading up on the process and looking for a truing stand to purchase.

Would something like thisget the job done? http://www.amazon.com/Tusk-Motorcycle-Wheel-Balancing-Truing/dp/B003QT26D6

Spokes on Ebay for 17 inch wheels, not sure if these would work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-FRONT-and-REAR-spokes-spoke-C50-C70-C100-C110-C102-S65-CD50-C200-Passport-/140517444102?hash=item20b77e0a06&vxp=mtr

[Adjuster]

You can build your own truing stand or Harbor Freight if you have one near you. Lots of YouTube videos on fixing your wheel. Spray the spokes now with something like Kroil or some other break free starting today and everyday before you begin working on them. They like to get seized up.


/

[humanbeing]

Parts:
http://atv52.ru/upload/4fa26039c9949.pdf | http://www.puzey.co.za/Resources/Puzey/Puzey%20STX%20200/Full%20Parts%20Catalogue%205.06mb.pdf

[The Thinker]

This is what harbor freight has to offer: http://www.harborfreight.com/motorcycle-wheel-balancing-stand-98488.html

I assume I would need that and a dial gauge or two, but I'm not sure how I would connect them and where to buy the correct ones. I could also just drill a hole in the frame and jb weld a nut in place, then thread a bolt through it and use it as a reference point to see how much the wheel is off.

Wheel truing is the only aspect of motorcycles and bicycles I have not tackled yet, but there's a first time for everything, and I guess that time is now.

[SpudRider]

Being a senior in high school, my pockets are as shallow as the kiddie pool in my neighbors backyard. Because of this I have always done things myself versus taking it to professionals which has proven to have its benefits and drawbacks.

I was just working on my bike, and discovered the back wheel is absurdly loose. I check the bolts and they are all tight, but then I notice one of the spokes is broken and all the rest are loose. I guess its time to buy new spokes, but where do I get them from. I already know I am not going to be able to afford to get my wheel laced and trued by a shop, so I guess its time to start reading up on the process and looking for a truing stand to purchase.

Would something like thisget the job done? http://www.amazon.com/Tusk-Motorcycle-Wheel-Balancing-Truing/dp/B003QT26D6

Spokes on Ebay for 17 inch wheels, not sure if these would work: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Honda-FRONT-and-REAR-spokes-spoke-C50-C70-C100-C110-C102-S65-CD50-C200-Passport-/140517444102?hash=item20b77e0a06&vxp=mtr

Spokes are different for almost every wheel. Therefore I doubt those eBay spokes will fit your QLink wheel. :ohno: I also doubt you need a complete set of new spokes. Order several spokes which are known to fit your wheel so you will have a spare or two. Then replace the broken spoke and true the wheel. This process is much easier than lacing the entire wheel, and it will help you to learn how to true the wheel. You can replace all the spokes later, if necessary. ;)

I own a Park Tool Truing Stand, and I highly recommend it. This truing stand is far superior to the Tusk Truing Stand, or anything you can purchase at Harbor Freight. ;)

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/26570/Park-Tool-USA-Wheel-Truing-Stand?term=truing%20stand

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/p/par_10_whe_tru_sta.jpg

[The Thinker]

Thank you for pointing me in the right direction Spud. The reason I was going to order a complete set of spokes was because my friend said since I've been riding the bike like this for who knows how long, the remaining spokes could be damaged or weakened since there is so much play in the rear wheel. I will order a few spokes like you suggested and the stand you linked. I take it you just put the axle through the wheel then lay it in the V notches in the top of the stand? Also, I don't have a spoke wrench yet. What size does the rear spokes need?

[SpudRider]

You can certainly order a complete set of new spokes, just make sure the spokes are designed for your QLink motorcycle. :) If you get a complete set of spokes, you will have the extra spokes handy in case you need them. ;) However, I still suggest you start by replacing only the broken spoke. If the other spokes were indeed weakened, they will begin to break, and you can replace them later. If the spokes were not weakened, you will have avoided a lot of extra work. :)

Indeed, you mount the wheel on top of the truing stand with the axle from your motorcycle. :) I don't know the size of your spoke nipples, since different wheels have spoke nipples with different sizes. :shrug: For that reason I suggest you purchase the Tusk Spoke Wrench Set, which comes with a variety of different size tips. :tup:

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/841/19537/Tusk-Spoke-Wrench-Set?term=tusk%20spoke%20wrench

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/t/tus_08_spo_wre_set.jpg

I own this spoke wrench set, and I like it a lot. Changing the different tips allows me to select the correct size for the two wheels on each of my four different motorcycles. :)

[The Thinker]

You have been an excellent help as always, I appreciate all the time you are taking to help me on this endeavor. Because I got sidetracked with this new issue, I never got to find the cause of my clutch problem. I am going to open the side up and see what's going on, then order everything I need to make my bike whole again :) and I will be sure to post pictures of what I find.

[Weldangrind]

X2 on the Tusk spoke wrench. I have that one, and it works very well.

I also have the Tusk truing stand, and it just meets my needs. My guess is that the Park stand is sturdier.

[The Thinker]

I am definitely going to get that spoke wrench, it is something that every rider should have in their tool arsenal. The thing I notice between the two truing stands is that the Tusk has an included bar and bearings that the wheel will turn on, where the park stand makes use of the wheel's native axle and bearings.

I am not sure if this is correct or not, but I have been told by a few people now that the truing stands that make use of the wheel's axle and bearings (like the park stand) are actually the correct thing to use to true a wheel, where the other one is mostly for balancing. Is there any validity in this statement, or should I disregard what those people have told me :D

[SpudRider]

I can't answer that question. :shrug: However, I think the Park Truing Stand has a superior design which makes it easier to true wheels. :)

[The Thinker]

Parts:
http://atv52.ru/upload/4fa26039c9949.pdf | http://www.puzey.co.za/Resources/Puzey/Puzey%20STX%20200/Full%20Parts%20Catalogue%205.06mb.pdf

Just a question about these parts, is the only place to get them qlink's own store? $15 bucks for a spoke seems quite excessive...

[SpudRider]

Just a question about these parts, is the only place to get them qlink's own store? $15 bucks for a spoke seems quite excessive...

I think someone reported that Suzuki spokes will fit the QLink XP200 wheels. However, you might not find such spokes for the XF200 wheels. :shrug: I suggest you search this forum, and start a new thread on the spoke topic. Fewer people are likely to discover your spoke question in this thread, which has a title regarding your shifting problems. ;)

I'm sure you can find XF200 spokes for sale at Taobao, using the search term 'QM200GY-B.'

http://s.taobao.com/search?q=qm200gy-b&commend=all&ssid=s5-e&search_type=mall&sourceId=tb.index&spm=a215z.7106357.5803581.d4908513

[humanbeing]

Just a question about these parts...
17" wheel had 2 version
Fig 48A in parts manual (drum) 9x4
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=23274096170
Fig 48C in parts manual (disk) 18x2
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=23273764748

Listed price is for 1 spoke ONLY. Ask Q to seller for details via agent.

[The Thinker]

I̶ ̶a̶g̶r̶e̶e̶,̶ ̶I̶ ̶w̶i̶l̶l̶ ̶c̶r̶e̶a̶t̶e̶ ̶a̶ ̶n̶e̶w̶ ̶t̶h̶r̶e̶a̶d̶ ̶o̶n̶ ̶t̶h̶e̶ ̶t̶o̶p̶i̶c̶.̶ ̶I̶ ̶h̶a̶v̶e̶ ̶n̶e̶v̶e̶r̶ ̶b̶r̶o̶w̶s̶e̶d̶ ̶T̶a̶o̶B̶a̶o̶ ̶b̶e̶f̶o̶r̶e̶ ̶s̶o̶ ̶I̶ ̶a̶m̶ ̶n̶o̶t̶ ̶s̶u̶r̶e̶ ̶w̶h̶a̶t̶ ̶I̶ ̶a̶m̶ ̶l̶o̶o̶k̶i̶n̶g̶ ̶a̶t̶ ̶y̶e̶t̶,̶ ̶b̶u̶t̶ ̶t̶h̶i̶s̶ ̶s̶e̶e̶m̶s̶ ̶t̶o̶ ̶b̶e̶ ̶w̶h̶a̶t̶ ̶I̶ ̶n̶e̶e̶d̶:̶ ̶h̶t̶t̶p̶:̶/̶/̶i̶t̶e̶m̶.̶t̶a̶o̶b̶a̶o̶.̶c̶o̶m̶/̶i̶t̶e̶m̶.̶h̶t̶m̶?̶s̶p̶m̶=̶.̶.̶.̶c̶k̶e̶t̶=̶1̶8̶#̶d ̶e̶t̶a̶i̶l̶

Humanbeing beat me to it, thank you for posting those links. I have the drum brake model and the spoke that is broken is on the side with the drum so I guess I just need some of these http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=23274096170 and I'll be set? I wish I could find the part in the US, but if I order a bunch it should be worth it.

[SpudRider]

As usual, Humanbeing provided you with excellent links. Thank you, Humanbeing. :tup:

Each of those spokes costs about $0.16, so order a bunch of them. ;) You can learn how to order from Taobao by reading the following thread.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?p=180721&posted=1#post180721

While you are waiting for the spokes to arrive, I suggest you purchase a truing stand, and tighten all of the existing spokes. You can safely ride with only one missing spoke, just as long as the rest of the spokes are tight, and the wheel is true. :)

[The Thinker]

As usual, Humanbeing provided you with excellent links. Thank you, Humanbeing. :tup:

Each of those spokes costs about $0.16, so order a bunch of them. ;) You can learn how to order from Taobao by reading the following thread.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?p=180721&posted=1#post180721

While you are waiting for the spokes to arrive, I suggest you purchase a truing stand, and tighten all of the existing spokes. You can safely ride with only one missing spoke, just as long as the rest of the spokes are tight, and the wheel is true. :)

I was actually just reading that thread, very valuable information :). I am definitely going to order a bunch of them and will also order the stand and tool. Humanbeing, you wouldn't happen to have a link for the spokes that are on the side without the brake, would you? Before making the purchase, I'm going to take my clutch apart and see whats going on in there, then see if the part(s) I need are on Taobao.

You have no idea how much you guys have helped in this whole process and how much it is appreciated by both me and my wallet :D I am glad to be a member of this forum :yay:

[SpudRider]

We are very glad to help. :) You will certainly find every part you need for your QLink XF200 on the Taobao website, and you will be very pleased with the prices. :tup: Multiply the price in CNY by 0.167 to get the approximate price in U.S. dollars. For example, an item with a price of 50 CNY has a cost of $8.35 USD. ;)

[humanbeing]

btw Those Qingqi parts shop above are based in Jinan ,Shandong which is ~1200 miles (ie. at least 2 days journey in truck) AWAY from SpudRider's favorite agent in Guangdong.

[The Thinker]

So I've been browsing Taobao and have collected a few items in my cart, but I just have a couple questions.

What makes this the correct part (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=23274096170)? After using a few different translators, it appears that these are the inside spokes (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.262.ux1TTM&id=37861860400&ns=1&abbucket=18#detail) for the rear drum brake and these are the outer spokes (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.13.ux1TTM&id=37861884269&ns=1&abbucket=18#detail). I am probably completely wrong though and see why I need an agent.

These are just the other parts I am going to pick up:
Speedo Cable (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.153.ux1TTM&id=41816322904&ns=1&abbucket=18#detail)
Speedo thing on wheel (http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=a230r.1.14.267.177KSq&id=3236417926&ns=1&abbucket=18#detail)

[SpudRider]

Purely for your own benefit, I strongly encourage you to start a new thread on this topic, with a descriptive title. If you do so, the many QLink owners will more likely notice your spoke questions, and offer you good advice. :)

[The Thinker]

Purely for your own benefit, I strongly encourage you to start a new thread on this topic, with a descriptive title. If you do so, the many QLink owners will more likely notice your spoke questions, and offer you good advice. :)

Will do, I guess I sorta hijacked my own thread :D I'll try to keep future posts on the original topic.

Link to the wheel thread for any new readers: http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?p=182737#post182737

[SpudRider]

Will do, I guess I sorta hijacked my own thread :D I'll try to keep future posts on the original topic.

It is perfectly fine to hijack your own thread. ;) I just think you will get more replies, and better answers if you start a new thread with a descriptive title. :) Also, anyone who has similar questions in the future can more easily locate the information if you start a new thread on this topic. :tup:

[Weldangrind]

I am glad to be a member of this forum :yay:

I'm glad you joined us. :tup:

[SpudRider]

i'm glad you joined us. :tup:

x2. :)

[humanbeing]

Different QM200GY generation http://www.motorfans.com.cn/bbs/viewthread.php?tid=645006&extra=&originator=yes
USD forks model is 3rd generation (something contains [三 / 3] in taobao.com) QM200GY-B(A)
That speedo cable is for 1st (一) / 2nd (二) generation !!!

[Ranbo]

Well I just went through the process of rebuilding my GY200. I put about 6k of highway miles on it and beat it extra hard on the trails. What I have come to realize in my case is that the gear box is the weak link on my bike. I lost third gear completely while out on the trail one day. Maybe my pictures will help you see what is going on with your bike. As far as I can tell these transmissions all work on the same basic principles. Also in the future I will not be so hesitant to take the right side cover off and replace my oil pump. What I would do if I were you is take the right cover off and remove the crank gear ( See last photo) that connects your crank shaft to the clutch. Thereby isolating the transmission from the motor. Then I would take the chain off and turn the clutch by hand and try cycling through the gears. Just dont be overwhelmed by any of this. It really makes more sense once you get in there. You will probably really enjoy it too.

http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa432/357Rossi/Mobile%20Uploads/20150329_210627_zpsiymch5bk.jpg (http://s1197.photobucket.com/user/357Rossi/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150329_210627_zpsiymch5bk.jpg.html)

http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa432/357Rossi/Mobile%20Uploads/20150329_205428_zpsdgextmvi.jpg (http://s1197.photobucket.com/user/357Rossi/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150329_205428_zpsdgextmvi.jpg.html)

http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa432/357Rossi/Mobile%20Uploads/20150329_094540_zpszbsewcfq.jpg (http://s1197.photobucket.com/user/357Rossi/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20150329_094540_zpszbsewcfq.jpg.html)

http://i1197.photobucket.com/albums/aa432/357Rossi/20150315_0805341_zpspp2wi0ue.jpg (http://s1197.photobucket.com/user/357Rossi/media/20150315_0805341_zpspp2wi0ue.jpg.html)

[The Thinker]

I'm glad you joined us. :tup:

x2. :)

Thank you both for the kind words, it means alot!

Different QM200GY generation http://www.motorfans.com.cn/bbs/viewthread.php?tid=645006&extra=&originator=yes
USD forks model is 3rd generation (something contains [三 / 3] in taobao.com) QM200GY-B(A)
That speedo cable is for 1st (一) / 2nd (二) generation !!!

Once again, thank you for the clarification Humanbeing! The catching of my mistakes is much appreciated :)

Well I just went through the process of rebuilding my GY200. I put about 6k of highway miles on it and beat it extra hard on the trails. What I have come to realize in my case is that the gear box is the weak link on my bike. I lost third gear completely....

Ranbo, your pictures and advice are a wonderful help. I love tearing into and repairing engines and have been doing so for quite some time, so I can't wait to see whats going on in mine. I will do it and take many pictures as soon as I can find the time to do so :D

[Ranbo]

Well you are the perfect chinarider then. With these bikes you have to build the bike you want. Can't wait to see what the insides of your motor look like. You have really good people behind you on this site.

[Jibberwobble]

Excellent thread. With all this info I think I'll pull my old aircooled zong 200 apart sometime. An engine that has seen some proper abuse, has a very stiff clutch plus was loosing 5th gear on the odd occasion half way through a race.

I'll pop back in to have a look to see how you get on.

Good luck!!!

[Weldangrind]

I love pulling the bottom end of these motors apart. Like Ranbo, I use the zip tie trick to hold the clusters together.

[Ranbo]

Hey Thinker! I once had shifting problems and it turned out all I needed to do was tighten the bolt on the gear shifter. When I moved the shifter by hand it was pretty loose. I know this is a long shot but just had to throw this out there because your bike does not have that many miles on it.

[Weldangrind]

Hey Thinker! I once had shifting problems and it turned out all I needed to do was tighten the bolt on the gear shifter. When I moved the shifter by hand it was pretty loose. I know this is a long shot but just had to throw this out there because your bike does not have that many miles on it.

That kind of tip is very valuable. It may not solve Thinker's issue, but perhaps it will help another member. Thanks!

[jct842]

Have had the loose bolt on shifter many times in the over 50 years of riding. The first few times it really threw me for a loop. The greeves I had in the late 60's used to loosen up a lot. 250cc villiers engine.

[SpudRider]

Hey Thinker! I once had shifting problems and it turned out all I needed to do was tighten the bolt on the gear shifter. When I moved the shifter by hand it was pretty loose. I know this is a long shot but just had to throw this out there because your bike does not have that many miles on it.

That kind of tip is very valuable. It may not solve Thinker's issue, but perhaps it will help another member. Thanks!

Have had the loose bolt on shifter many times in the over 50 years of riding. The first few times it really threw me for a loop. The greeves I had in the late 60's used to loosen up a lot. 250cc villiers engine.

Indeed, this is an excellent tip. To prevent this problem I get a slightly longer bolt from the hardware store which extends beyond the shift lever. I then install a nut on the end of the bolt to lock it tight. ;)

[The Thinker]

Hey Thinker! I once had shifting problems and it turned out all I needed to do was tighten the bolt on the gear shifter. When I moved the shifter by hand it was pretty loose. I know this is a long shot but just had to throw this out there because your bike does not have that many miles on it.

That kind of tip is very valuable. It may not solve Thinker's issue, but perhaps it will help another member. Thanks!

Have had the loose bolt on shifter many times in the over 50 years of riding. The first few times it really threw me for a loop. The greeves I had in the late 60's used to loosen up a lot. 250cc villiers engine.

Indeed, this is an excellent tip. To prevent this problem I get a slightly longer bolt from the hardware store which extends beyond the shift lever. I then install a nut on the end of the bolt to lock it tight. ;)

I completely agree, this is a very helpful tip that I can see helping many future riders who cant figure out whats going on with their transmission. Sadly, this is not the issue with my bike since I just did a once over of my bike last week tightening everything up (plus I just ran out to check it :D).

One thing I did notice was when my bike is off, the shifting action is very smooth like you would expect it to be. It is only when its running that it becomes clunky and choppy. Does this mean anything?

[Jibberwobble]

Ha! I was clonking my old air cooled engine through its gears the other day by operating the shifter by hand, it's coupled through a transverse shaft on the end of a UJ and bell crank and ends up on the other side of the bike. I was suddenly alarmed to notice that my new fandagled mechanism has a whole bunch of play in it. After a frantic search around the chassis was eventually relieved to find that I hadn't done 'that' bolt up last time I popped it on for trial fit!

[Ranbo]

Hmm... now you really have my brain spinning T. Thinker. I can tell that you are really mechanically inclined. Runs fine in neutral and with clutch fully engaged with no creep forward. Shifts smooth with engine off. You have done and check everything that I would have without tearing into the thing. I have no doubt you will figure out what the problem is. Keep us posted!

[The Thinker]

I will definitely keep you guys posted. I plan on tearing into the transmission this weekend and will no doubt find the problem. I will be sure to take lots pics along to way!

[Ranbo]

Indeed, this is an excellent tip. To prevent this problem I get a slightly longer bolt from the hardware store which extends beyond the shift lever. I then install a nut on the end of the bolt to lock it tight. ;)

Thanks for this SpudRider. I will see if I can get this done today.

[The Thinker]

Ok, so today I went out to the garage, got all my tools ready, and began to remove the clutch cover to get into the engine. I saw that I had to remove the giant hex key bolt that holds on the foot stand to allow room for the wrenches and the clutch cover to slide off the kick start. So I go and find the perfect fitting hex key, put it in, and guess what? The bolt head completely strips out. I have absolutely no way to get into the clutch and am guessing im going to need to pay some money to have this taken care of (even though I bought an XF200 for the low cost). I'm kinda ranting, but also hope you guys have some advice here.

[Weldangrind]

Please show us a pic.

[The Thinker]

Pics show how far open it can go before being stopped by the footpeg.

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k532/cnasseri/far.jpg

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k532/cnasseri/20150422_180137.jpg

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k532/cnasseri/20150422_180144.jpg

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k532/cnasseri/strip.jpg

I'm really hoping I don't need to spend big money on this bike.

[The Thinker]

Normally I would just cut a notch in the screw and put a flathead against one side and use a hammer to rotate it in increments till it comes out, however this screw was so tight that it stripped out (the hex key was a tight fit). If it is my only option, I might just do that anyway and replace the bolt if I can get it out.

[Adjuster]

You can try notching it but I think you are going to have to drill it out.

If you do notch it try to get an impact driver to bust it loose.


/

[The Thinker]

I did not think of that, I just bought an impact driver from harbor freight a couple months ago and think that might do the trick. What would the proper way be to drill it out if push comes to shove? If I do drill it out, would it be worth it to buy a left hand drill bit set just in case it comes loose so it would come out with the drill bit?

[Weldangrind]

I'd just drill the head off, remove that bracket and then clamp vise grips on the remaining stud.

[The Thinker]

I just commenced drilling the head off, and the drill bit is getting destroyed. Is this bolt made of hardened steel?

[humanbeing]

...drill bit is getting destroyed...
Next time use some cutting fluid during the process

[The Thinker]

So I got the screw out, the clutch cover off, and everything apart. Now I need to get the small retaining screw out that keeps the clutch linkage in and IT stripped out. I am really starting to get pissed at this bike, as it seems every screw is over tightened to the point that even if I use the proper tool they will strip out.


The kicker is I looked down the clutch push rod shaft in the middle of the clutch and can see the linkage in the end. It is damaged. This means getting that out is what will fix my shifting problem. If I work on this bike any more my heads going to explode, so I'm gonna go to work and use the time to clear my head. Will resume working on the bike tomorrow.


I feel this is an accurate representation of me right now:

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k532/cnasseri/1c96f3844.png

[Ranbo]

You are making progress on this project and that is all that matters. You are already further along than 90% of the people out there who would have stopped a that first stripped bolt.

[fishman10]

im no expert, but if they possibly used a red type locktite,,it sometimes helps to heat the bolt pryor to wrenching on it to break or melt the bond,, it seems to help me.

[The Thinker]

How would you go about removing this bolt? I am thinking heat it up then use a screw extractor, however if the bolt is just extremely tight then the heat wont do much and the extractor will just fail. Perhaps notching the head then using heat with a wide flat head screwdriver would do the job.

[Weldangrind]

I'm with Fish on this; red Loctite needs heat.

Even if it doesn't have red Loctite on it, heat is often your friend with a tight bolt. If it's really stubborn, heat it up and then hit it with WD-40. It instantly quenches the bolt and wicks into the threads, and usually the bolt will back out.

Can you show us a pic of the fastener that is really tight?

[The Thinker]

Was just about to post it when I saw you said that, here is the fastener.

http://i1114.photobucket.com/albums/k532/cnasseri/20150423_224834.jpg

Tomorrow after school I'm gonna pick up a bottle of butane to refill my micro torch and a pack of dremel cutting heads to make the notch in the screw. I'm not sure how I'm going to heat the screw without melting the seal that is around the linkage, so I guess Ill need to order one of those as well.

Edit: I'm going to need to order a new linkage and possibly seal, how would I go about finding this on ebay/taobao?

[Weldangrind]

Once you make the notch, try an impact.

[The Thinker]

That's what I'm thinking, I know that would get it out for sure. What is the flat head attachment called for an air impact gun, I can't seem to find them at my local home depot or lowes.

[humanbeing]

Fig 10 of http://www.puzey.co.za/Resources/Puzey/Puzey%20STX%20200/Full%20Parts%20Catalogue%205.06mb.pdf
Just get the genuine Suzi parts from taobao (OR "stealer") if says K157FMI...
---
Did u heard that "JIS" http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle-tools/jis-screwdrivers/ (Cost peanut from Japanese chain store where i live)? The Philips will F***ed it ...

[Weldangrind]

Excellent point. What often resembles Phillips on a motorcycle is actually JIS.

[Weldangrind]

That's what I'm thinking, I know that would get it out for sure. What is the flat head attachment called for an air impact gun, I can't seem to find them at my local home depot or lowes.

Other than flat head or slotted, I don't know of a specific name. I didn't buy mine separately; they came with one of these:

http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/9-pc-manual-impact-driver-set/A-p8311615e

[The Thinker]

I cut a notch in the head of the screw and heated it with a torch. I then put a screwdriver into one side of the notch and banged on it until it came loose. I got all the parts out and will post a pic of the linkage in a little bit.

Now the new problem is one of the studs that go into the case for the oil filter cover is stripped in the case. I'm thinking either a heli coil or just jb welding the stud into the case.

I also wanted to address the JIS vs philips thing. Ever since I got my first motorized vehicle pretty much every "phillips head" screw has, in actuality, been a JIS. Because of this I have been wrongfully referring to JIS screws as Phillips heads since more people know what a Phillips head is than a JIS, however this just leads to confusion and possible compatibility issues as you guys have stated. Thank you for posting that information, it will help many future riders that come across this thread!

[pete]

I cut a notch in the head of the screw and heated it with a torch. I then put a screwdriver into one side of the notch and banged on it until it came loose. I got all the parts out and will post a pic of the linkage in a little bit.

Now the new problem is one of the studs that go into the case for the oil filter cover is stripped in the case. I'm thinking either a heli coil or just jb welding the stud into the case.

if it's a 6mm... retap it to 1/4UNC.... 1/4 = 6.4mm
no drilling just run the 1/4 tap in the striped hole...

[humanbeing]

How bad is the stud? Somtimes teflon tape can save it.

[The Thinker]

if it's a 6mm... retap it to 1/4UNC.... 1/4 = 6.4mm
no drilling just run the 1/4 tap in the striped hole...

Done and done. I replaced the rod and everything works perfect, thank you for the suggestion!

Tomorrow I am going to see if any local shops have the part in stock, if not I will be ordering from the Tao of Bao with all my other parts.

Edit:
How bad is the stud? Somtimes teflon tape can save it.

Just saw this. The stud was beyond Teflon tape, but I agree I have used that method many times to help the bolt get a grip.

[The Thinker]

So I called all my local shops and the part is on backorder from japan. $35 dollar part and will take approximately 3 weeks to get here, so I figured I might as well order from taobao instead. Humanbeing supplied me with the cam link and I believe the pushrod I found is correct.

Clutch Cam: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.1998246701.2.d0JmyL&scm=1007.10152.5718.0i19983559590&id=16729208290&pvid=8d0cac2a-ed96-4030-94af-31aae73a1d3c

Clutch Pushrod: http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?spm=2013.1.w4018-7381419568.4.ZaVl1f&scm=1007.168.0.i16729208290&id=12992729578&ad_id=&pvid=85d9cfa1-36ff-4641-83cf-7ca4edce5141&jlogid=p26034108bd3bc

[humanbeing]

Qingqi-Suzuki specialist
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=42958706298 | http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=9863946010

[The Thinker]

Qingqi-Suzuki specialist
http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=42958706298 | http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=9863946010

I already made the purchase before I saw this post. Will the parts I listed work? I believe I can still cancel the order.

[humanbeing]

Works as it should. "Yoybuy" are based in Beijing (Slow & higher domestic shipping fee / int'l fee NOT as good as other TB agent ...) which is PiTA. I would cancel the order ASAP & find another agent. Seller from #78 is just 4 hr drive from SpudRider's favorite agent .

[humanbeing]

... was beyond Teflon tape, but I agree I have used that method many times to help the bolt get a grip.
Yellow (for gasworks) tape is better than the white one for this purpose. I ALWAYS use "bulk pack" tape (like these http://item.taobao.com/item.htm?id=37500295288) that don't stamp ANY safety standard (expect drinkable water) in ALL my "fixes" .

[The Thinker]

Works as it should. "Yoybuy" are based in Beijing (Slow & higher domestic shipping fee / int'l fee NOT as good as other TB agent ...) which is PiTA. I would cancel the order ASAP & find another agent. Seller from #78 is just 4 hr drive from SpudRider's favorite agent .

Well shoot... The order status is "Processing" so I am in a chat with the customer support to see if I can cancel the order and get a refund.

[humanbeing]

Oh no!!! http://www.yoybuy.com/en/help.html?cateid=12881
http://weidong360.taobao.com/ Beijing: ZTO (zto.cn) only | 3-5 working days

[The Thinker]

Yoybuy is working much faster than I expected. Everything is already at their office and they are sending it out asap (in the morning for them). Expected shipping time with DHL is 4 days max so I will update everyone as soon as the parts get here.

[The Thinker]

Everything arrived today and I spent the past 10 hours in the garage. I have everything almost ready to go, however I am stuck on the clutch adjustment. I need to set the nut in the middle of the clutch basket to set the gap between the pushrod and clutch, but I have no idea what I should be setting it to. When doing this, should I have the slack adjustment on the handle bar all the way in, and what position should the clutch cam be in before I set this up?

[humanbeing]

http://www.chinariders.net/files/SERVICE20MANUAL-GF125.pdf 3-49/50
---
Interesting stuff
http://www.motoyes.net/bbs/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=189606&page=1&authorid=27
http://www.motoyes.net/bbs/forum.php?mod=viewthread&tid=196534&page=1&authorid=27

[The Thinker]

Update

Everything is officially done! I got the clutch set up, thanks to Humanbeing and his arsenal of links, then put in the new oil filter and closed the bike up. After a good washing and some nice new oil, I took it out for a spin. Immediately I noticed that the shifting is MUCH easier and no longer feels like you are forcing the bike into gear. The problem is I always had to push the lever really hard to get the bike to shift, which has lead to an improper shifting technique, time to re train my brain :D

The local auto store had a sale on Mobile 1300 oil, so I purchased a gallon of it for future use. Any opinions on this oil? I asked the guy behind the counter if it has friction modifiers in it and he stared at me and said "Oil makes car smooth run no friction anymore oil makes slippery good". Instead of trying to decipher this new language I just purchased the last gallon they had.

Anyways, a BIG thank you to everyone who helped me with this bike. There were a few times I was ready to throw it off a cliff and let the gators get it :D After riding for a while I will return with another update to let you all know how its been holding up!

[Weldangrind]

The shifter should definitely be more of a gentle click to move between gears, so it sounds like you've nailed it.

If Mobil 1300 is the 15W40 I think it is, it's a good choice.

[humanbeing]

Haynes (http://www.haynes.co.uk/) published a book (ISBN: 9780857337504) for this bike . Noobs often buy that for reference.
For whom can self taught : factory shop manual + 'net + pals knows bike is more than enough ...

[The Thinker]

Alright, so I have been riding the bike quite a bit and it has been doing well, but today I was out riding and out of nowhere the engagement point of the clutch changed. Usually the clutch engages slowly and can be released with a good controlled feeling in the hand, but when I was out today it changed to a small amount of engagement then all of a sudden engages the full way.

So if I were to translate the engagement into numbers, 1 being disengaged and 10 being fully engaged, it used to go 1-2-3-4-5-6-7-8-9-10, but now when I ride it goes 1-1-1-1-1-2-2-8-9-10 if that makes any sense. In order to take off from stoplights on my way home I had to do an awful lot of slipping to get the bike to take off without stalling, and the shifter is no longer a nice click. It feels more like I am forcing the shifter to do what I want.

[SpudRider]

I strongly suggest you quickly check to see if the clutch cable is frayed. ;)

[The Thinker]

I checked it out and it has no damage anywhere. Nothing feels like it is catching or snagging, its just the change in how the bike is responding. It also seems to get worse as the engine warms up.

[Weldangrind]

Have you lubricated the cable?

[The Thinker]

One of the first things I do after working on my bike is put a couple drops of 3 in 1 down each cable on the bike. I am going to do a bit more riding tomorrow and see the condition of the clutch changes for better or for worse, then will report back with my findings.

[humanbeing]

... couple drops of 3 in 1 ...
The stuff http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry_lubricant used in lock (attracts less dust/ dirt ...) are more practical. Ancient recipe: graphite powder mixed w/ kerosene...

[JTHSPACE]

I was discouraged some years ago of oiling cables as many had gone to a nylon (or similar) liner and the oil damaged the liner, causing cable grabs.

[Weldangrind]

I only use Maxima Chain Wax on cables. Good stuff.

[The Thinker]

Hey everyone, just stopping in to report. Today I tested out a 2011 CBR250R to see whats up, and of course loved it (however I don't think I will be able to leave the dual sport community) and when I got home and rode my bike, I noticed how much worse it shifts again. I know the honda is going to shift smoother regardless, but mine just feels like you need to put a bit too much effort into shifting it. I don't know whats up with my bike, maybe it's just made like this?

My friend is getting his moto license soon and wants to buy my bike, and I will get something else, but I don't want to sell him a first bike that doesn't work properly.

[Weldangrind]

Before you make another adjustment, I recommend that you move your shifter down by one spline. See if that makes any difference.

[The Thinker]

I will do this right now, however wont be able to test till tomorrow. Just curious, what makes you think this will fix the issue?

[Weldangrind]

If your shifter is too high, it's difficult to upshift.

[The Thinker]

I changed it, no improvement. It's something internal that isn't working as smoothly as it should be. I just had the whole thing apart though so I don't know whats going on.

[Weldangrind]

It was worth a shot.

[The Thinker]

I think I am just going to try to sell this thing for as much as I can get and be done with it. Maybe move to an RX3 or Japanese bike...