Zongshen RX3: New Bike Assembly Information

[SpudRider]

This thread contains all of the information you need to know regarding the assembly of your Zongshen RX3 motorcycle from the shipping crate. Firstly, here is link to the RX3 Setup Tutorial posted at the CSC website.

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=15621

[SpudRider]

Here is a link to the Zongshen RX3 Uncrating Documents.

Zongshen RX3 Uncrating Documents (https://mega.co.nz/#!AgYnWQQS!SWw3D5pC2hLcsKOgMkhMMZNY4ovgNjf9qhJKJ6a L9i0)

[SpudRider]

Joe Berk posted a nice video at the CSC blog demonstrating four tips which will help with the assembly of your RX3 motorcycle. :tup:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hght7wB-OYA

[SpudRider]

Here is another excellent video describing the proper procedure for preparing an AGM battery which is shipped with an external acid bottle. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xpg10yp4duo

[detours]

Here are some assembly tips, info and links I pulled together from the CSC site and various RX3 forums. I don't have my bike yet, but I thought I'd share with others.

The 'Extra Items' section contains some common sense checks on a new bike and a few issues as reported by some early adopters of the RX3.

Crate Weight (unassembled)

478 lbs (217 kg)


Crate Size

7.0 x 1.9 x 3.6 ft
83.5 x 22.2 x 43.3 in
2120 x 565 x 1100 mm


Initial Assembly Instructions

CSC RX3 Assembly Instructions (http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=15621)
CSC RX3 Leftover Parts List (http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=16239)
CSC RX3 Assembly Video Tips (https://youtu.be/hght7wB-OYA)


Extra Items to Check

Check crankcase vent plug (http://www.mychinamoto.com/forums/showthread.php?6634-Zongshen-RX3-report&p=69469&viewfull=1#post69469) has been removed (not applicable to US spec RX3)
Check torque on all bolts:
brake rotors
brake calipers (http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=16607)
engine sprocket nut (http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=16487)
shifter pedal bolt play
replace air filter panel screw (http://californiascooterco.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/DSC0067.jpg) with bolt to aid removal when luggage is installed (looking for a better pic)
Check drive chain slack (http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=15256)
Check wheel alignment (http://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=173199&postcount=332)
Exhaust checks:
tighten header to engine bolts
header to rear brake line clearance (http://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=182980&postcount=2932)
header to evaporation system tube clearance (http://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=182980&postcount=2932) (below battery behind main frame)
muffler mounting bolts (http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=16607)
check for weak spot weld on heat shield (http://www.rx3forums.com/forums/dbtgallery.php?do=gallery_image&id=91&gal=gallery&type=full) (if it rattles)
Adjust throttle cable (http://gear-garage.com/2011/12/23/adjust-throttle-cables-2/)
Check oil level before starting (US-spec bikes are about 100cc low (http://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=182980&postcount=2932) from factory):
replace oil with 1.5 qt new oil (http://advrider.com/forums/showpost.php?p=26717626&postcount=619)
oil change tutorial (http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=13911)
Adjust clutch to fix hard neutral (http://cyclone-rx3.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=57&sid=5fa2d114142f6856e321e0bc7b560079) (ensure correct oil level first)
Check electrical insulator on headlamp power (http://www.rx3forums.com/forums/showthread.php/114-Back-home-safely-Almost-without-incident)
Check and adjust headlight angle (http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/how-to-your-aim-true)


CSC Maintenance Tutorials

http://californiascooterco.com/rx3_maintenance_tutorials.htm


Edit: corrections based on info from Spudrider. New links to source issues.

[SpudRider]

Thanks for posting the detailed list. :)

Having assembled my bike and ridden it for over 900 miles, I can add a few comments. The RX3 is continually being improved by Zongshen, so some of the items on the detailed list above are no longer problems for the bikes being sold in the United States.

There is no need to check the crankcase vent. The crankcase vents at the front, left side of the engine. The vent goes to an oil separator, which separates into two tubes. The lower tube collects any excess oil which has been vented from the engine, and the tube descends to an area near the front of the skid plate. This tube has a plug to prevent any excess oil from venting to the ground. Do not remove this plug until you wish to empty any of the excess oil which might have been collected. After you do remove any excess oil, replace the plug. The plug not only protects the environment from oil pollution, but it also prevents dirt from entering the system, and fouling the oil separator.

The upper tube exiting the oil separator goes back and enters the air box, where it can either vent to the engine, or the outside air, via the air filter. :)

I have examined the entire exhaust system, and I cannot find any wires or tubes which are in danger of being damaged from excess heat. :) The rear brake line is well below the exhaust header and muffler. It is securely routed along the swingarm, and is well protected. I did not find any evaporative system tubes anywhere on my motorcycle. If such tubes exist, they are not located anywhere near the exhaust system. :tup:

[SpudRider]

Also, having removed my headlight, I did not discover any wires rubbing the frame. Indeed, I have not yet discovered any faults in the wiring harness. If anyone discovers a wiring defect, please do post photographs of the defective wiring so everyone can locate the problem, and correct it. :)

[SpudRider]

My exhaust header was securely attached to the cylinder head. However, I did tighten the bolts a little more to prevent any possible problems. ;)

My drive chain was slightly, but not excessively tight. I rode a few hundred miles before I loosened both adjuster bolts 1/6 turn. I did check the sprocket alignment. The center of the rear axle was aligned the exact same distance from the swingarm bolt on both sides of the motorcycle. :tup:

The rear axle adjustment nuts were tight on my motorcycle. However, I do strongly encourage everyone to verify these nuts are tight on a regular basis. ;) If one, or both of these nuts ever loosen, you can damage one, or all of the wheel bearings. :ohno:

[SpudRider]

Thanks for posting the tip regarding the split side panel covering the air filter. :tup:

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/03/DSC0067.jpg

I have not yet installed my panniers. However, after examining the motorcycles, I am confident there will be no problems accessing the top rear screw shown in the photograph. The only problem with access is likely to be the bottom rear screw on this panel, which is not visible in the photograph. ;)

Since I currently don't have the proper bolt, I merely removed the bottom rear screw for the interim. The front portion of the split side cover is retained by a tab and two other screws at the top of the panel. Therefore, I believe the panel will be very secure without the bottom rear screw, at least until I can get the proper bolt. ;)

[detours]

Thanks for posting the detailed list. :)

Having assembled my bike and ridden it for over 900 miles, I can add a few comments. The RX3 is continually being improved by Zongshen, so some of the items on the detailed list above are no longer problems for the bikes being sold in the United States.

There is no need to check the crankcase vent. The crankcase vents at the front, left side of the engine. The vent goes to an oil separator, which separates into two tubes. The lower tube collects any excess oil which has been vented from the engine, and the tube descends to an area near the front of the skid plate. This tube has a plug to prevent any excess oil from venting to the ground. Do not remove this plug until you wish to empty any of the excess oil which might have been collected. After you do remove any excess oil, replace the plug. The plug not only protects the environment from oil pollution, but it also prevents dirt from entering the system, and fouling the oil separator.

The upper tube exiting the oil separator goes back and enters the air box, where it can either vent to the engine, or the outside air, via the air filter. :)

I have examined the entire exhaust system, and I cannot find any wires or tubes which are in danger of being damaged from excess heat. :) The rear brake line is well below the exhaust header and muffler. It is securely routed along the swingarm, and is well protected. I did not find any evaporative system tubes anywhere on my motorcycle. If such tubes exist, they are not located anywhere near the exhaust system. :tup:

Thanks for the corrections! I don't have my RX3 yet, but I compiled my list based on other reports, so I can be ready when it arrives. (Maybe it was premature to share it)

[SpudRider]

Thank you for you input; it was not the least bit premature. We appreciate the time and effort you spent making this detailed list, and we are glad you shared it with us. :tup:

[woodlandsprite]

CSC has highlighted a few additional fasteners to focus on:
http://californiascooterco.com/blog/?p=16607

Detours has already captured the Muffler Mounting and Front Caliper Bolts above.
Also called out are the Exhaust Pipe Fasteners and heat shield screws.

[SpudRider]

I think one of the hardest parts of assembling a new motorcycle is raising the bike to install the front wheel. Once the front wheel is on the motorcycle, the rest of the job becomes much easier. The RX3 is pretty heavy, so if you don't have a strong back, you will want to lift the front of the bike with a jack of some sort.

Fortunately for me, I own a Husky 3-Ton jack I purchased from Home Depot. A nice feature of this jack is the ability to remove the lifting pad, which reveals a hollow tube beneath. This feature was added so you can easily install an extension beneath the lifting surface. However, you can also use the hollow tube on this jack to securely lift the RX3 from either the front, or back of the motorcycle. :tup:

Whenever I wish to lift the rear wheel of the bike, I can remove the lifting pad, and place the hollow tube of the jack around the centerstand support on the right side of the bike, as shown below. I used this method while adjusting the shock spring preload on my RX3.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14677

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3510_zpsxye6kyd8.jpg

You can also use this method to change the rear tire, remove and lubricate the suspension linkage, et cetera. :)

If you remove the skid plate from the RX3, you will discover a strong mount attached to the frame which secures the front bolt of the skid plate. When assembling the bike, I removed the skid plate, and placed the hollow tube of my Husky jack around that mounting tab. The mounting tab provides a strong, secure projection which will prevent the motorcycle from slipping off the jack. :tup:

While my friend steadied the bike, I raised the front of the motorcycle using this procedure, and quickly attached the front wheel. Once the front wheel was in place, I lowered the jack, and rolled the bike to a convenient location. From that point I easily completed the rest of the bike's assembly by myself. :)

[Adjuster]

I am sure it has already been answered somewhere in here but is CSC offering a pre assembled deal?


/

[SpudRider]

I am sure it has already been answered somewhere in here but is CSC offering a pre assembled deal?


/

Yes, CSC will assemble the motorcycle for you. They will also ship an assembled RX3 motorcycle to you in a custom wooden crate. :)

[MotoJoey]

the rx3 is a beautiful bike im sure you dont want to answer this but what are they running wouldn't mind adding one to my collection.

[SpudRider]

the rx3 is a beautiful bike im sure you dont want to answer this but what are they running wouldn't mind adding one to my collection.

Thank you. The RX3 is sold in the United States by California Scooter Company, in Azusa, California. Here is the link to their website. They will be happy to answer all your questions. The current price for the RX3 is $3,495. ;)

http://californiascooterco.com/
http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/category-s/100.htm

[woodlandsprite]

https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5337/17741885571_b29ff2cc54_z.jpg

Mine arrived :) - partially assembled. It shipped strapped down in a custom crate - had to install mirrors, windscreen and top case (though I might go looking into the larger travel trunk that folks seem fond about).

Be careful while unstrapping - I made sure the kickstand would land on a board on the pallet, but even so, when the tie down was released and weight shifted to the kickstand, the kickstand broke through the pallet and we were not able to arrest its fall so my poor bike has battle wounds already ;) (some scuffs on the guards and left pannier) - anyone know if these guards are going to rust? If so I'm open to paint recommendations to do some touch up work :P

[SpudRider]

Congratulations on receiving your new RX3. :tup:

Your question regarding touchup paint for the engine/luggage guards is excellent, and I'm sure the topic will arise again. I'm tempted to suggest you start a new thread on this topic, since I suspect you might receive many different recommendations. It would be nice to have this information available in one thread, for future reference. :)

[woodlandsprite]

Anyone know if there is a torque value for the engine sprocket nut? I noticed mine had some play today so I tightened it some. (There was no movement when I received my bike)

Also, anyone know what size bolt/screw the air filter panel takes? I bought a #10 machine screw with a hex head that looked to be about right but the thread spacing must be just a hair off.

[SpudRider]

I suggest you call CSC for the definitive answer to both questions. ;) However, the EC Cami 250 Owner's Manual specifies the torque for the counter shaft (C/S) sprocket to be 55 Nm, which is 41 foot-pounds.

Are you inquiring about the screw which holds the air filter assembly together? If so, it might be included in part #9, the Air Filter Element Bracket.

http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/category-s/154.htm

http://cdn3.volusion.com/qsgah.sptja/v/vspfiles/photos/Z39-100-2.jpg?1427887385

[woodlandsprite]

Thanks Spud.
Will call CSC and see if they have a torque value for me.

As for the screw - it's the bottom one that holds the split panel that houses the air filter
the one referred to in post #9 (http://chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=184202&postcount=9) in this thread :)

[SpudRider]

I'm sure that screw is metric. I will try to remember to measure it for you when I get a chance. ;) I merely removed that screw, and did not replace it. I think the other screws will hold the panel securely. :)

[woodlandsprite]

I'm sure that screw is metric.
:) confirmed it is metric, but CSC did not have a size.

As for the Countershaft sprocket nut, they report a torque value of 125Nm

And as for me, I need to have a lesson in what all everything is called on the bike - because it seems I was wondering about the engine cover (and the countershaft sprocket is behind a something that I probably haven't even removed to check) :embarassed: Oh well, the only way to learn is to ask :doh:

[SpudRider]

:) confirmed it is metric, but CSC did not have a size.

As for the Countershaft sprocket nut, they report a torque value of 125Nm

And as for me, I need to have a lesson in what all everything is called on the bike - because it seems I was wondering about the engine cover (and the countershaft sprocket is behind a something that I probably haven't even removed to check) :embarassed: Oh well, the only way to learn is to ask :doh:

My goodness! I calculate that 125 Nm is 92 foot-pounds. :wtf: That is the amount of torque you might put on a crankshaft bolt, not a counter shaft, sprocket nut. ;) I really think 41 ft-lbs is much more reasonable. :shrug:

If you wish, start a new thread on Motorcycle Nomenclature. We will be happy to answer your questions. :)

[woodlandsprite]

My goodness! I calculate that 125 Nm is 92 foot-pounds. :wtf: That is the amount of torque you might put on a crankshaft bolt, not a counter shaft, sprocket nut. ;) I really think 41 ft-lbs is much more reasonable. :shrug:


I even asked for confirmation on that value...it certainly seemed excessive

[SpudRider]

Personally, I wouldn't tighten it that much, especially since the C/S sprocket for the RX3 has a locking tab. You really don't get much lateral pressure on the counter shaft sprocket. :shrug:

My Zongshen ZS200GY-2 only employs a retaining clip for the C/S sprocket, which allows some lateral movement of the sprocket on the counter shaft. My Honda XR650L also employs a retainer which bolts to the C/S sprocket, and allows lateral movement of the sprocket on the counter shaft. My Honda CRF250X specifies a torque of only 23 ft-lbs for the bolt holding the C/S sprocket. :shrug:

It will require considerable effort to torque that bolt to 92 ft-lbs. It will also require a breaker bar to loosen a bolt torqued to 92 ft-lbs. :wtf: The C/S sprocket nut will not loosen if it is tightened to 41 ft-lbs, and secured with the locking tab. ;)

[SpudRider]

...As for the screw - it's the bottom one that holds the split panel that houses the air filter
the one referred to in post #9 (http://chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=184202&postcount=9) in this thread :)

I'm sure that screw is metric. I will try to remember to measure it for you when I get a chance. ;) I merely removed that screw, and did not replace it. I think the other screws will hold the panel securely. :)

I measured the screw. It is designed for a 3 mm hole. However, I don't know the thread pitch. :shrug: I assume it is the standard thread pitch for a 3 mm screw/bolt. ;)

[JTHSPACE]

You can get too much information, such as this

Metric Screw Threads (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ISO_metric_screw_thread)

Here is a useful guide to sizes, torques etc.

Sizes and Torques (http://www.thomsonrail.com/Technical%20Resources/A%20short%20guide%20to%20metric%20nuts%20and%20bol ts.pdf)

Metric nuts and bolts are the current standard across the globe. In the UK, they have replaced older standards using imperial units, such as the British Standard Whitworth (BSW) standard. Metric bolt sizes are specified in millimetres and include the diameter, pitch, and length of a bolt.

Diameter
The first number in a metric bolt specification refers to the bolt's nominal outer diameter. For example, a bolt specified as "M6-1.0 x 30" fits a 6.0-mm diameter hole. The "M" indicates that it is a metric size. Keep in mind that metric bolts are usually slightly smaller than their specified diameter. For example, a M16 bolt is often 15.97 mm in diameter. This creates a small "clearance" that allows some flexibility for misaligned parts. In general, larger bolts are also stronger, though the bolt's material also plays an important role in its strength. Stainless steel bolts are weaker than hardened steel bolts of the same diameter.

Pitch
In the metric specification, the pitch refers to the distance between two adjacent threads in millimetres. The M6-1.0 bolt has a pitch of 1.0 mm. To convert pitch to "Threads per Inch" (TPI), multiply by 0.03937 to change the metric pitch to inches and then divide 1 by the resulting number. For example, a bolt's 1.0 mm pitch equals 0.0394 inches and results in a 25.40 TPI. The pitch also indicates whether it is a "fine" or "coarse" bolt. Metric fine bolts have a pitch of 1.5 mm or smaller. Bolts with a diameter of 24 mm and larger are exceptions, as a 2.0 mm pitch indicates a fine thread. The most common metric threads are coarse. If the bolt size does not specify pitch, assume it is coarse.

Length
The length of a bolt is the last number in its metric size specification. Using the same example, the M6-1.0 x 30 bolt has a length of 30 mm. Most bolts, including cheese, hex, pan, socket, button, and low socket head types, are measured from under the head to the tip of the bolt. However, the length of oval and flat head bolts includes their head height.