Tutorial: Adjusting the Shock Spring Preload for the RX3

[SpudRider]

The spring preload setting of the shock absorber in the RX3 produces a very harsh ride. Fortunately, adjusting the spring preload allows this shock to perform much better.

Remove both saddles from the bike, and remove the black plastic panel which covers the battery on the right side of the bike.

To adjust the shock spring preload, you must raise the rear wheel from the ground to remove the bike's weight from the shock absorber. If you have a center stand, lift the bike onto it, and weight the front of the bike to raise the rear wheel from the ground.

I don't have a center stand. Therefore, I place the side stand of my RX3 on a brick, which almost raises the bike to a vertical position. I then turn the front wheel to the left, and place my Husky 3-Ton jack under the center stand support on the right side of the motorcycle. Pumping the jack lever raises the rear wheel off the ground, and places the bike in a very solid, secure position.

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3510_zpsxye6kyd8.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3510_zpsxye6kyd8.jpg.html)

[SpudRider]

Remove the rear wheel so it was not weighting the shock absorber, and to enable yourself to gain better access to the shock itself. To protect the brake caliper and brake line, secure the rear brake caliper to the swingarm with a piece of Romex wire.

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3518_zpsv9zkj5k8.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3518_zpsv9zkj5k8.jpg.html)

[SpudRider]

The locking ring for the shock spring has a single Allen bolt which tightens it. You adjust the spring preload either by turning the spring itself, or by turning the locking ring, which sits above the spring at the top of the shock. You don't need a special tool to tighten the spring preload. To gain access to the locking ring and the Allen bolt, remove the battery and the battery box from the motorcycle.

First, remove the battery. Then remove the evaporative canister which is attached to the bottom of the battery box.

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3517_zpsfupmxdmz.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3517_zpsfupmxdmz.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3512_zpsezygjkdk.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3512_zpsezygjkdk.jpg.html)

[SpudRider]

However, before you can remove the battery box itself, you need to gain access to one of the four bolts securing the battery box, which is partially covered by the upper side panel at the rear of the bike. Remove the screw at the back of the side panel, and remove the bolt securing the right side of the passenger hand grip. This will allow you to pop the side cover panel from its rubber grommet. With the panel loose, tilt it clockwise, which will allow you to remove the final bolt which secures the battery box.

After removing all four bolts, remove the battery box, which allows full access to the locking ring of the shock spring.

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3521_zpslnl6jzbm.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3521_zpslnl6jzbm.jpg.html)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3514_zpshqqh5z92.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3514_zpshqqh5z92.jpg.html)

[SpudRider]

Using a socket wrench and an Allen key adapter, loosen the locking ring. Moving aside the mud flap, grab the shock spring with your left hand. Kneeling beside the bike, also grab the shock spring with your right hand.

Turning the spring counter-clockwise for three revolutions of the locking bolt, you should completely loosen the locking ring. This will verify the shock has been set at the minimum spring preload.

After verifying minimum spring preload, tighten the spring for three revolutions of the locking ring, returning the spring to its original setting. Then tighten the spring for an additional, three complete revolutions, to increase the spring preload. Next, tighten the Allen bolt, which secures the locking ring in place.

[SpudRider]

Having adjusted the spring preload, replace the battery box. Then, attach the evaporative canister to the bottom of the battery box. Replace the battery. Then return the side cover panel to its original position. Finally, replace the wheel. Lower the bike from the jack or center stand, replace the black panel covering the battery, and replace both saddles. With the bike fully assembled, you are ready to take a ride to test the shock absorber with the increased spring preload.

Repeat this entire procedure, either tightening, or loosening the shock spring preload, until the shock absorber performs as you desire.

[Weldangrind]

I presume that six full turns from zero preload is about right for a 200+lbs rider; is that correct?

[SpudRider]

I presume that six full turns from zero preload is about right for a 200+lbs rider; is that correct?

I would guess six full turns from the stock position, which is minimal preload, would be about right for a rider who weighs 200 pounds. :) Unfortunately, I weigh more than I should, so I am going outside shortly to add another 3 turns to the spring preload on my RX3. :hehe: This setting will bring me nine full turns from the minimal preload position.

I haven't added all the luggage, and the crash bars, to my RX3. Therefore, I might need to adjust the spring preload some more, after I finish adding all the equipment. However, it is much easier working on the bike in its current 'naked' configuration. I suggest riders sort out the suspension on this bike before they add all the luggage, et cetera. ;)

[katflap]

Great tutorial Spud, Thanks,

Now for a dumb question :hehe:

Being a beginner at suspension adjustment

What is the " ride feel " I'm after for when it's set right.

or is it one of those things that can't be explained

Spotted another difference CSC / Honley, no evaporation canister for us (UK)

[SpudRider]

Great tutorial Spud, Thanks,

Now for a dumb question :hehe:

Being a beginner at suspension adjustment

What is the " ride feel " I'm after for when it's set right.

or is it one of those things that can't be explained

Spotted another difference CSC / Honley, no evaporation canister for us (UK)

Thank you, Kat. :)

You want the suspension to feel smooth. You don't want to feel any harshness or jarring when you encounter potholes, or bumps in the road or trail.

I will take more photos of the connections to the evaporation canister when I check the valve lash. It doesn't weigh much, and it doesn't block access to anything, but I am still considering removing it. ;)

[pete]

did you measure the sags before adjusting the shock
to give you a idea where you need to be heading
or if you can get the correct setting with the standard spring
for your weight..

what you should be after is
35mm Static Sag. "bike under it's own weight"
33% - 1/3 of suspension travel , Rider Sag.. "Rider on bike"




.

[SpudRider]

Yes, I did measure the static sag. I'm waiting for my friend to help me measure the rider sag. However, I think those measurements apply more to dirt bikes, than adventure bikes. Also, in this particular instance, this shock absorber seriously needs to be adjusted to achieve the best results, irregardless of the 'ideal' numbers. ;)

[pete]

Road bikes set for
10mm static & 20% rider
so if you set somewhere in the middle
of road & dirt you could be about right...

Be a Soft road set up or a hard dirt set up...

[AZRider]

I used a shock spanner wrench and jacked the bike up to lift the rear wheel as Spud suggested. It was a bit fiddly, but I was able to make 3 full turns in a few minutes without removing anything.

[SpudRider]

did you measure the sags before adjusting the shock
to give you a idea where you need to be heading
or if you can get the correct setting with the standard spring
for your weight..

what you should be after is
35mm Static Sag. "bike under it's own weight"
33% - 1/3 of suspension travel , Rider Sag.. "Rider on bike"

.

That's the way I set up the shock preload on my other bikes, Pete. :) I used that method when I installed a stronger spring on the XT225 shock absorber of my Zongshen ZS200GY-2. I also used that method after I installed lowering links on both my Honda XR650L, and my Honda CRF250X.

I wanted to use that method on my Zongshen RX3, but my good friend who has helped me in the past was unavailable for about a week. The RX3 shock absorber is soft enough in stock configuration to be punishing at times. :ohno: Also, it was set for the minimal spring preload, so I decided to experiment with the spring preload while I waited for my friend to find time to help me. ;)

Because of the limited suspension travel, and the adventure/street bike characteristics of the suspension, I decided to adjust the spring preload for the best riding response on pavement and dirt while I waited for my friend to help me perform the traditional method.

I believe I have optimized the shock preload as best I can for the stock equipment, but the shock performance is still not satisfactory. I suspect either the limited suspension travel (5.6 inches) is not adequate for dual purpose riding, or, most probably, the stock shock spring is not strong enough for my weight. ;)

Therefore, I am going to keep the current settings until my friend finds time to help me employ the traditional, proven method. ;)

[SpudRider]

Road bikes set for
10mm static & 20% rider
so if you set somewhere in the middle
of road & dirt you could be about right...

Be a Soft road set up or a hard dirt set up...

Thanks for the additional input, Pete. :) I was going to research that information, but I haven't had the time to do so. ;)

[SpudRider]

I used a shock spanner wrench and jacked the bike up to lift the rear wheel as Spud suggested. It was a bit fiddly, but I was able to make 3 full turns in a few minutes without removing anything.

Good for you, George. :) Have you had time to do a test ride? If so, what were the results.?

[SpudRider]

Pete's method is certainly the correct way to configure the shock spring preload, and I should have mentioned that at the beginning. ;) However, I was anxious to improve the sometimes punishing ride of the stock configuration, and I know RJ in Walla Walla was also looking for some relief. ;) I strongly suspect the stock shock spring is too weak for many occidental riders, and we will need to find a stronger, aftermarket shock spring.

I should be able to confirm my suspicions when my friend is available to help me perform the correct method. ;) Until then, I will keep my current configuration, since the ride is much better on both pavement and dirt with the increased spring preload I have configured.

[pete]

I suspect either the limited suspension travel (5.6 inches) is not adequate for dual purpose riding,


if thats all it's got you will need to use harder settings or you will
bottoming out on ruts/pot holes etc
8" - 200mm would be far better for a ADV bike..





.

[AZRider]

Good for you, George. :) Have you had time to do a test ride? If so, what were the results.?

Unlike your results Spud, I found the suspension had been set too firm so I loosened it by 3 turns. The shock now soaks up the bumps rather than jar my coccyx, but I didn't find any noticeable difference in handling. The rear wheel follows the contours of the road much better, although I still need to play with the rebound for additional fine tuning.

Once I have the rear set up, I'll turn to the front and review your comments on fork oil viscosity. I don't want to make too many changes at one time so that I can isolate the effects of each one.

[SpudRider]

Unlike your results Spud, I found the suspension had been set too firm so I loosened it by 3 turns. The shock now soaks up the bumps rather than jar my coccyx, but I didn't find any noticeable difference in handling. The rear wheel follows the contours of the road much better, although I still need to play with the rebound for additional fine tuning.

Once I have the rear set up, I'll turn to the front and review your comments on fork oil viscosity. I don't want to make too many changes at one time so that I can isolate the effects of each one.

You are wise to make one change at at time. ;) If you loosened the shock spring preload by three turns, you now have virtually no spring preload. Is that correct? If I may ask, how much do you weight?

[SpudRider]

if thats all it's got you will need to use harder settings or you will
bottoming out on ruts/pot holes etc
8" - 200mm would be far better for a ADV bike...

Undoubtedly, 8 inches of shock travel would be much better. I'm hoping a shock absorber with more travel designed for another motorcycle might fit the RX3. I will take some measurements when I have time. In the meanwhile, I would like to install a stronger shock spring. ;)

[SpudRider]

I got my friend Andy to help me make some measurements. Here is the current configuration of the shock spring preload for my Zongshen RX3.

R1, the first measurement, was made with the rear wheel lifted, and the suspension totally extended.

http://www.harrymoto.com/MX/RaceSag/Sag1.jpg

R1 = 23"

R2, the second measurement, was made while I stood on the foot pegs, with full riding gear.

http://www.harrymoto.com/MX/RaceSag/Sag2.jpg

R2 = 21-1/4"

Race Sag = R1 minus R2 = 23" minus 21-1/4" = 1-3/4" = 1.75 inches

Total suspension travel = 5.6 inches

Race Sag should be roughly 33 percent of total suspension travel. (1.75 inches Race Sag) divided by (5.6 inches total travel) = 31 percent

R3, the third measurement, is the bike supporting its own weight.

http://www.harrymoto.com/MX/RaceSag/Sag3.jpg

R3 = 22-3/8"

Free Sag = R1 - R3 = 23" minus 22-3/8" = 5/8" = 16 mm

I obtained these numbers with the spring preload tightened to 6 turns beyond minimum preload. The shock travel is still a little too soft for me, so I need a heavier shock spring. This situation is also corroborated by the size of the Free Sag.

The current settings give me an acceptable ride, but I will certainly be looking for a stiffer shock spring. I am also interested in an aftermarket shock absorber with more travel, or a shock absorber designed for another bike with more travel. ;)

[oldqwerty]

Be careful what you ask for. 8 inches of suspension travel adds ~1.6 inches of ground clearance and seat height, contributing to the top heavy feeling of other adventure boats. Think KLR, Versys, Strom, and about any BMW GS other than the original 650 single. All of these bikes borrow from racer suspension technology to try to create what is essentially a dirt road tourer. Such faddish engineering does not provide good results. Back in the olden days us old farts raced everything with 5-6 inches of suspension travel. We went a LOT faster than any Cyclone will ever go (140mph was a competitive speed) on 5-6 inches of well controlled suspension travel.

For adventuring I'd rather have a well controlled 5.5 inches of travel with the corresponding lower center of gravity since I generally ride at slow-down-and-smell-the-roadkill speeds these days. After all, that's what an adventure bike is for.

If you prefer dualsport riding, pretty much a play racer with lights, the Cyclone is the wrong bike for you. Get yourself something with a chassis designed for less weight and longer travel. There are a plethora of such bikes available form a variety of manufacturers. I'll happily putt along on my TW or Cyclone with 5-6 inches of suspension travel and let the play racers with their 9-11 inches of suspension travel pass. I'll generally catch up to them when they crash.

My opinion is trying to turn the Cyclone into a dualsport bike will ruin the unique character of the bike.

[SpudRider]

My Zongsen ZS200GY-2 has 6.5 inches of fork travel. The XT225 shock absorber I installed on it has 7.5 inches of travel. I have ridden this bike over 69,000 miles, and traveled on it for many multi-day trips to Nevada, Utah, Wyoming, and Montana. Of course, I have also ridden it extensively throughout East and Central Idaho.

I don't race my Zongshen Sierra. I enjoy riding it at a slow pace, just as you do with your TW200. :) The suspension in my Zongshen ZS200GY-2 is much superior to the stock suspension of the RX3, at all speeds. Perhaps after you receive your RX3, and start riding it, you might get a different impression of the bike's suspension. However, I certainly do plan to experiment with a stiffer spring on the stock shock absorber before I start looking for alternative shocks. :)

Indeed, if you are a lighter rider, the stock shock absorber might work perfectly for you. :)

[Weldangrind]

Spud, did you go through this process with your 200? I don't recall seeing a thread about it.

[SpudRider]

Spud, did you go through this process with your 200? I don't recall seeing a thread about it.

After I performed my XT225 swingarm conversion, I noticed the XT225 shock absorber was too soft. Doing some research on the XTT225 forum, I discovered this was a common complaint for many larger riders. The solution was to order a stiffer shock spring from Cogent Dynamics. ;)

http://www.xt225.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=61341

I ordered the Cogent Dynamics spring, and installed it on my shock absorber. :) After installing the stiffer shock spring, I adjusted the shock preload as described in this thread. :) However, I did not post a thread on this topic. ;)

You rode my Zongshen Sierra with that shock absorber over 500 miles to the Bonneville Salt Flats two years ago; what do you think?

[oldqwerty]

My Zongsen ZS200GY-2 has 6.5 inches of fork travel. The XT225 shock absorber I installed on it has 7.5 inches of travel. I have ridden this bike over 69,000 miles, and traveled on it for many multi-day trips to Nevada, Utah, Wyoming, and Montana. Of course, I have also ridden it extensively throughout East and Central Idaho.

I don't race my Zongshen Sierra. I enjoy riding it at a slow pace, just as you do with your TW200. :) The suspension in my Zongshen ZS200GY-2 is much superior to the stock suspension of the RX3, at all speeds. Perhaps after you receive your RX3, and start riding it, you might get a different impression of the bike's suspension. However, I certainly do plan to experiment with a stiffer spring on the stock shock absorber before I start looking for alternative shocks. :)

Indeed, if you are a lighter rider, the stock shock absorber might work perfectly for you. :)

I'm not a light rider, and I'm not saying the ride can't be improved. Every bike I've ever owned has needed some help in the suspension department, doesn't matter if it was new, old, big, little, fast, or slow. That's just part of the personalization process every rider could do to maximize satisfaction with any bike. All I'm saying is 5.5 inches is enough travel for the bike's intended use and that 5.5 inches needs to be well controlled. Of course, your definition of "adventure" may be quite different from mine, and that's okay, too.

Nor do I always ride slow. Plenty of other riders have commented on even Tdub's ability to keep up with bigger bikes.

The shock will have to be really bad for me to spend the money to replace it. I'll get it the best I can without spending a ton of money and ride within its limits, which shouldn't be a problem because my Cyclone rides will demand significantly less of the bike than yours. We are not blessed with the plethora of beautiful back roads you enjoy. Our back roads are paved, and what isn't paved is pretty much in a fenced park where you ride in circles or reserved for horses and hikers. Yes, it sucks.

I didn't buy an inexpensive bike to spend more than it cost to turn it into a Strom or BMW. That's what I did with Tdub2 and CSC comes out with the Cyclone for 1/3 the price and pretty much the same mission objective. If I'd have known, I would have made Tdub2 into a really gnarly offroader with the stock TW34 tire on the front and some ATV meat on the back. I'm going to build one of those next. :yay:

Zong on!

[oldqwerty]

Found this link on another site.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IOzkdgiaiYM&feature=youtu.be

[SpudRider]

Found this link on another site.

Question: Who needs suspension, anyway?
Answer: Not those guys! :wtf:

:hehe:

[Weldangrind]

You rode my Zongshen Sierra with that shock absorber over 500 miles to the Bonneville Salt Flats two years ago; what do you think?

I loved it. I could've ridden it home to Canada. :D

[AZRider]

You are wise to make one change at at time. ;) If you loosened the shock spring preload by three turns, you now have virtually no spring preload. Is that correct? If I may ask, how much do you weight?

I have no knowledge of how consistent the factory is in setting up each bike, so it may be that mine was set up extra firm. I have not measured sag as I'm more of an old school seat of the pants rider, but there is definitely preload on the spring. My weight runs consistently between 170-175lbs.

[SpudRider]

I bet you are correct. ;) Thank you, George. :)

[woodlandsprite]

Ugh. I think there is a lot of inconsistency in the preload setup on the bikes. I noticed very little rider sag when I got on my bike...very different feeling than when I get on my husband's bike. (Not a euphamism :hehe:).

I am guessing this means I'm going to have to try to back off the preload by a fair bit? Is there an obvious 'zero' preload position?. Looks like I need to go shopping for another tool ;)

[SpudRider]

Ugh. I think there is a lot of inconsistency in the preload setup on the bikes. I noticed very little rider sag when I got on my bike...very different feeling than when I get on my husband's bike. (Not a euphamism :hehe:).

I am guessing this means I'm going to have to try to back off the preload by a fair bit? Is there an obvious 'zero' preload position?. Looks like I need to go shopping for another tool ;)

I counted the number of complete turns required to completely remove the preload from the shock spring. In other words, the spring was completely uncompressed, and there was a visible gap between the spring and the locking ring. Since I only counted three complete turns to this position, I knew the spring preload was at its minimum setting. Therefore, I tightened the spring three complete turns, and returned to the minimal preload setting, before I began my adjustments. I measured all adjustments from this mimimal preload setting, and finally settled at six full turns tighter than the mimimal preload setting. ;)

[SpudRider]

After loosening the allen nut on the locking collar, I was able to turn the spring with both hands. However, you can also use a punch and hammer to turn the locking collar. Turning the spring by hand is much faster, if you have the strength to do so. ;)

[woodlandsprite]

I Am going to have to see if the jack for our truck is suitable for lifting the bike. And then attempt to follow azrider George's shock spanner use to minimize what all has to come off the bike. Course if I don't have a Jack that will work I'll have to get a Jack *and* a spanner wrench

[SpudRider]

A good tool is always an excellent investment. :)

[Weldangrind]

I Am going to have to see if the jack for our truck is suitable for lifting the bike. And then attempt to follow azrider George's shock spanner use to minimize what all has to come off the bike. Course if I don't have a Jack that will work I'll have to get a Jack *and* a spanner wrench

Perhaps a bike lifter would be a good choice for you. I have the HF model, but it's a little clumsy. I've seen bike lifters that have very smooth operation, and decent mechanical advantage. This is similar to what I have: https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/875/48090/Husqvarna-Lift-Stand

If you have the floor space, perhaps this would be easier for you: http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/lifts-stands/1500-lb-capacity-atvmotorcycle-lift-61632.html It's on sale, too. :tup:

[SpudRider]

Those are nice stands, Weld. :)

However, unlike my other motorcycles, the RX3 really wants to lift the front wheel, no matter how far back you place the jack. :wtf: If you use a lift stand, you will definitely need to weight the front of the bike to loft the rear wheel. In fact, I think it is just about impossible to loft both wheels at the same time, because of the location of the circular mounts for the centerstand. :ohno: Also, a lot of lift stands designed for dirt bikes won't adjust low enough to fit under the perimeter frame of the RX3. ;)

I really like using the Husky jack for this purpose, since it is very unobtrusive, and allows wonderful access to the lower shock linkage. :) Since this linkage doesn't have any grease zerks, it will certainly need to be disassembled periodically for inspection, and lubrication. ;)

Of course, the CSC centerstand will also work very well, as long as you weight the front wheel. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=I4R1nB0v1Yc

[SpudRider]

One will also need to remove the swingarm for periodic inspection and lubrication of the bearings. ;) The Husky jack provides a very stable platform for this procedure, yet it allows easy access to all the bolts, and allows plenty of space to remove the swingarm, and re-install it, et cetera. :)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3510_zpsxye6kyd8.jpg

[woodlandsprite]

Of course, the CSC centerstand will also work very well, as long as you weight the front wheel. :)



I was thinking that....but I have no center stand as yet ;) but I could wait for it to arrive before tackling the shock adjustment. Still need to see if my jack from our truck would work...took advantage of the nice cooler weather today to go for a ride instead :)

[oldqwerty]

During the set up process I'll be adding Zerks to the swing arm pivots and shock mounts.

[woodlandsprite]

*sigh* I also now understand why people out here buy houses with lots and lots of garage space. We have a 3-bay garage, but the 3rd bay is somewhat truncated by a built in shelf and the fact that one of the walls has an angled wall - it was fine until we shoehorned in the 2nd bike :P Looking for ways to clear up space in that bay now ;) especially since the other bike doesn't have luggage on it right now and we intend to get it a set of cases at some point! Not to mention the various other pieces of equipment I think I'm going to be acquiring to do maintenance ;)

[Weldangrind]

However, unlike my other motorcycles, the RX3 really wants to lift the front wheel, no matter how far back you place the jack. :wtf: If you use a lift stand, you will definitely need to weight the front of the bike to loft the rear wheel. In fact, I think it is just about impossible to loft both wheels at the same time, because of the location of the circular mounts for the centerstand. :ohno: Also, a lot of lift stands designed for dirt bikes won't adjust low enough to fit under the perimeter frame of the RX3. ;)

Having never seen an RX3 up close, I can't be sure, but I suspect that a ratchet tie-down strap that secures the frame to the jack would allow a level lift.

That presumes the jack will slide under the bike.

[Weldangrind]

...took advantage of the nice cooler weather today to go for a ride instead :)

Excellent choice! :tup:

[Weldangrind]

*sigh* I also now understand why people out here buy houses with lots and lots of garage space. We have a 3-bay garage, but the 3rd bay is somewhat truncated by a built in shelf and the fact that one of the walls has an angled wall - it was fine until we shoehorned in the 2nd bike :P Looking for ways to clear up space in that bay now ;) especially since the other bike doesn't have luggage on it right now and we intend to get it a set of cases at some point! Not to mention the various other pieces of equipment I think I'm going to be acquiring to do maintenance ;)

Sounds like it's time for a shed. In my municipality, we can build a 110 square foot shed without a permit, as long as it is a certain distance from property lines.

[SpudRider]

Having never seen an RX3 up close, I can't be sure, but I suspect that a ratchet tie-down strap that secures the frame to the jack would allow a level lift.

That presumes the jack will slide under the bike.

I really don't think so, Weld. ;) If the RX3 frame didn't have centerstand mounts, you could undoubtedly get a level lift. However, the protruding mounts for the centerstand make this task very difficult if not impossible. ;) If you could somehow manage to get a level lift, it would not only be tenuous, it would also undoubtedly block access to the lower shock linkage. :ohno:

In any event, I don't care to work that hard, especially when my Husky jack allows me to quickly, and securely lift either wheel. :tup:

[SpudRider]

Of course, one can also install the CSC centerstand. :) However, I have heard it takes a good bit of upper body strength, and a strong back, to get the RX3 up on that centerstand. :wtf: Since my aging back has seen better days, I would rather let my Husky jack do all the work. ;)

[woodlandsprite]

Sounds like it's time for a shed. In my municipality, we can build a 110 square foot shed without a permit, as long as it is a certain distance from property lines.

Or I need to go buy another house with property that would be more suitable for a shed ;) :lol:

The current house was purchased without all these additional vehicles in mind and it occupies a goodly portion of the lot, leaving hardly any room for a shed - ah the things I will have to keep in mind when we move and "downsize"

[Weldangrind]

I really don't think so, Weld. ;) If the RX3 frame didn't have centerstand mounts, you could undoubtedly get a level lift. However, the protruding mounts for the centerstand make this task very difficult if not impossible. ;) If you could somehow manage to get a level lift, it would not only be tenuous, it would also undoubtedly block access to the lower shock linkage. :ohno:

In any event, I don't care to work that hard, especially when my Husky jack allows me to quickly, and securely lift either wheel. :tup:

Perhaps there's an RX3-specific opportunity to contribute. My 3 ton floor jack has a removable saddle, which leaves a hole in the frame. A pad could be fabricated that fits into the mounting hole, and provides clearance for the protrusions. The pad could also be covered with a rubber mudflap to protect the underside of the frame.

[Weldangrind]

Of course, one can also install the CSC centerstand. :) However, I have heard it takes a good bit of upper body strength, and a strong back, to get the RX3 up on that centerstand. :wtf: Since my aging back has seen better days, I would rather let my Husky jack do all the work. ;)

My old '79 Yamaha XS650 Special was brutal to pull up on the center stand, until my buddy's Dad showed me the technique. He was a very slim man, and I couldn't believe how easy he made it look.

Not saying that you're not familiar with the technique, Spud. I'm saying that I wasn't.

I thought that I needed to pull from the bars to rock the bike onto the stand, but I actually needed to pull from the rear bar / carrying rack. It seemed so counter-intuitive to me, but it worked very well.

[Weldangrind]

Or I need to go buy another house with property that would be more suitable for a shed ;) :lol:

The current house was purchased without all these additional vehicles in mind and it occupies a goodly portion of the lot, leaving hardly any room for a shed - ah the things I will have to keep in mind when we move and "downsize"

Instead of 10x11, could you find space for a smaller shed, like 8x10 or even 5x10? That would at least allow you to get the mower, etc out of the garage.

[SpudRider]

My old '79 Yamaha XS650 Special was brutal to pull up on the center stand, until my buddy's Dad showed me the technique. He was a very slim man, and I couldn't believe how easy he made it look.

Not saying that you're not familiar with the technique, Spud. I'm saying that I wasn't.

I thought that I needed to pull from the bars to rock the bike onto the stand, but I actually needed to pull from the rear bar / carrying rack. It seemed so counter-intuitive to me, but it worked very well.

That's the method I used to pull my '79 Honda CB400T onto the center stand. :) I faced backward, and used my legs to lift the bike onto the center stand as I held the rear passenger grip. ;) However, I was told matters are different for the RX3, so I declined to buy the center stand. ;) Perhaps the person who told me of the difficulty was unaware of the proper method, but he seemed to be pretty knowledgeable. ;) Perhaps someone else who owns the CSC center stand can either confirm, or deny the difficulty of using the stand. ;)

[SpudRider]

Perhaps there's an RX3-specific opportunity to contribute. My 3 ton floor jack has a removable saddle, which leaves a hole in the frame. A pad could be fabricated that fits into the mounting hole, and provides clearance for the protrusions. The pad could also be covered with a rubber mudflap to protect the underside of the frame.

When I first bought my Husky jack, I fabricated a plate which I can substitute for the stock saddle. :) I tried using this plate, as well as several lifting stands, et cetera, to loft the rear wheel of my RX3. ;) The method I used below is easily the quickest, and the most secure method I know to loft the rear wheel of the RX3. :tup:

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/DSCF3510_zpsxye6kyd8.jpg

[AZRider]

I have a motorcycle specific jack from Sears Craftsman that I use on all my bikes, and with the addition of a block of wood have made it functional for the RX-3. The bike is stable,but adding a couple of tie down straps ensures a higher level of safety. It also lifts both wheels off the ground easily.

[SpudRider]

Thanks for your input, George. That's a nice jack. :)

I see you have the rear support placed all the way behind the centerstand mounts.

[fishman10]

i have found that standing on the left side, i bend down slightly,enoughto grab the passenger footpeg mounting bracket with my right hand,,an with my lefthand on the handlebar .i can usually get it up on the stand on the second '' rock''...oh an of course my foot is on the centerstands ''tab'' to hold it on the ground. it works better for me than when i was trying to use the passenger seat grab rail,,as it was too high an i could not get any leverage.

[AZRider]

Thanks for your input, George. That's a nice jack. :)

I see you have the rear support placed all the way behind the centerstand mounts.

I had initially omitted the wood block, but the bike rocked on the two "legs" behind the center stand mounts. The block provides a more secure base.

[SpudRider]

I had initially omitted the wood block, but the bike rocked on the two "legs" behind the center stand mounts. The block provides a more secure base.

:tup:

[katflap]

Thanks to the posts in this thread I have now adjusted my rear shock. A definite benefit to the ride feel.:tup:

loosened off 1 1/2 turns , think I need to up my pie intake :D

[SpudRider]

Good for you, Kat. :tup: Thanks for letting us know the results. :)

[woodlandsprite]

so...what is the slow/fast dial on the bottom of the shock for - does it actually adjust the rebound damping of the shock a noticeable amount?

[SpudRider]

so...what is the slow/fast dial on the bottom of the shock for - does it actually adjust the rebound damping of the shock a noticeable amount?

Yes, the screw at the bottom of the shock absorber is used to adjust the rebound damping. Turning the screw counter-clockwise allows for less damping, and a faster rebound. Turning the screw clockwise allows for more damping, and a slower rebound. The rebound damping of the RX3 shock absorber has 16 positions, and works well. :) Adjusting the screw does result in a noticeable difference in rebound damping.

[fishman10]

i got lucky,,the locking collar with the set screw was facing foward,,,so after removing both side panels i was able to reach in with a small ''L'' shaped allen wrench and loosen the set screw.Oh forgot to mention bike was up on the centerstand,,,,at this point i was able to just reach in and turn the collar counterclockwise loosening the spring ,as i thought it was much too harsh.Mine was set at about the middle of the of the threaded area. i could have loosened more ,,cause its slightly better,,but still not great.

[woodlandsprite]

Hey AZRider George - hope you're still popping in here - do you happen to know what kind of shock spanner wrench you have? the one I bought is too big - and absolutely useless for trying to turn the locking collar on the RX3. While I had the side panel and seat off the bike earlier today to install a battery tender pigtail, I went ahead and loosened the allen nut and was able to turn the spring by hand to reduce the preload - I was not able to turn it to completely remove the preload, and I lost count of how many times I turned it because at first it didn't look like it was actually advancing the collar up the threaded shaft at all. I kept turning, hoping to get to 0 preload so I could try to start from 0 preload, but eventually got to a point where perhaps my hands fatigued out - or just got too sweaty (it was getting hot in the garage). There is definitely a lot more rider sag on the bike now....hopefully I didn't back it off too far :P In any case, in order to turn that locking collar I think I'm going to be needing a proper wrench - I think I'd rather go that route than a punch + hammer.

[AZRider]

Hey AZRider George - hope you're still popping in here - do you happen to know what kind of shock spanner wrench you have? the one I bought is too big - and absolutely useless for trying to turn the locking collar

Sorry Sprite, but I don't have an actual size as I used the spanner from my Valkyrie. If you have a Cycle gear or similar store close by, ride the RX-3 there and have them match it to the bike. Most shocks on bikes are of a similar size, did you buy one intended for a car or truck?

[woodlandsprite]

Most shocks on bikes are of a similar size, did you buy one intended for a car or truck?
Thanks George - There isn't a Cycle Gear close enough for me to ride the bike to (still getting comfortable on the streets and cars around) - but I can drive my car to one :P

I suspect the one I ordered was for an ATV, though when I read the reviews, I thought I saw some folks mentioning it working for their bike(s)

ah well, maybe I will have lucked out and I have the spring set where I want it now - one could hope....

[SpudRider]

Loosening the preload is easier than tightening the preload. Also, the job becomes much easier if you remove the rear wheel. ;)

The space available for turning a spanner wrench is very limited. ;) If you wear gloves and remove the rear wheel, I think it is easiest to turn the shock spring by hand. However, I own this punch and chisel set sold by Harbor Freight, and I have used it on the RX3 shock spring collar. ;)

http://www.harborfreight.com/12-piece-punch-and-chisel-set-66337.html

One of the small round punches perfectly fits the holes in the shock spring collar. You can insert this punch in a hole, and use the punch as a lever to turn the shock spring. :) Also, you can easily turn the collar by striking the larger pencil punches with a hammer. I can affirm the pencil punches will not damage the collar. ;)

[AZRider]

Thanks George - There isn't a Cycle Gear close enough for me to ride the bike to (still getting comfortable on the streets and cars around) - but I can drive my car to one :P

I suspect the one I ordered was for an ATV, though when I read the reviews, I thought I saw some folks mentioning it working for their bike(s)

ah well, maybe I will have lucked out and I have the spring set where I want it now - one could hope....

Maybe this pic will help.

[SpudRider]

That wrench is certainly short enough to fit in the limited space available. :tup: Thanks for posting the photo, George. :)

I don't own a shock spanner wrench; all the ones I have seen for sale are much longer than that wrench. I suppose one could also purchase a longer wrench, and cut it to the desired length. ;)

[woodlandsprite]

Indeed, that photo is helpful - unfortunately the 2 I saw on the cycle gear site seem like they might both be too large.

[SpudRider]

Seriously, I did test the Harbor Freight (HF) punch and chisel set mentioned in post #69 of this thread. ;) Both the round punch and the pencil punches worked well, and neither damaged the locking ring. :) However, I abandoned the punches when I discovered it was much faster for me to turn the shock spring by hand. ;)

[woodlandsprite]

:) thanks spud. That may be the route I have to go since I definitely can't seem to turn the spring to tighten it by hand

[rjmorel]

Of course, one can also install the CSC centerstand. :) However, I have heard it takes a good bit of upper body strength, and a strong back, to get the RX3 up on that centerstand. :wtf: Since my aging back has seen better days, I would rather let my Husky jack do all the work. ;)

Spud, here's what I did for my aging back to get it up on center stand easier out in the field.
http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?p=187142&posted=1#post187142

The Husky jack would be more challenging to take out on a ride I must admit, rj

[SpudRider]

Spud, here's what I did for my aging back to get it up on center stand easier out in the field.
http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?p=187142&posted=1#post187142

The Husky jack would be more challenging to take out on a ride I must admit, rj

:lol:

Thanks for posting that great tip, RJ. :tup: In a pinch, one could also roll the rear wheel onto a flat rock. :)

[dave92029]

Thank you for this tutorial and all the helpful comments. You guys gave me confidence to adjust my shock today. :thanks:

I took a slightly different approach. I removed the heat shield from the exhaust pipe and the clamp that secures the pipe. This gave me access to the shock, even with my very large hands.

I then used a 5/32 Hex socket from my 10pc HF hex set to loosen the retaining ring.

I only tightened my shock 3 full rotations. This is a big improvement. I might need to tighten an other turn but I'll ride the bike for a while and see how this feels.

I found that both my tires were delivered with approx 6 lbs more air pressure than the owners handbook suggests, so I brought the tire pressure inline with the handbook.

I also softened the rebound dampening.

The bike has about 400 sMiles on her in the first week so we are still getting to know each other. I'm really enjoying the ride. :tup:

[SpudRider]

Thanks for the kind words and updating the thread with your personal experience regarding the preload adjustment procedure. :)

[fishman10]

i've adjusted my dampening to no avail to slow down the rebound dampening ,it only has one click left,,,sigh

[SpudRider]

i've adjusted my dampening to no avail to slow down the rebound dampening ,it only has one click left,,,sigh

If/when CSC starts selling an aftermarket shock absorber, I will certainly be buying one. ;) How about you, Fish?

[fishman10]

if csc's pricing is fair ,,,yes indeed!! i will buy .... it will transform this great little bike!,,,i think even the stock shock on mine is defective as it seems to have no dampening ,, just a spring effect ,,as it trys to launch me at times . On a side note ,,,,it runs much better now that the valves are adjusted..

[rtking]

As always, thanks to Spud and all that posted on doing the preload adjustment. As a big guy, the stock setting had me bottoming the shock with any kind of bounce on the seat. Following the guide posted by Spud, I was able to access the Allen Head screw that was facing rearward by removing the battery. I gave 8 turns to the coil/collar which firms up the spring quite a bit, and I oriented the collar's lock screw toward the left side of the bike so I can now back-off the screw without having to disassemble the side panels and battery.

8 turns feels pretty stiff, but the bike handled pavement great. I think for any kind of off road use, I'd probably back off the preload by 2 turns and get it back to 6 turns tighter/stiffer from the stock setting.

I also changed the oil today (after 58 hard break-in miles) and was glad to have done so. There was what I am assuming to be assembly lube and metal particles around the drain plug, and around the screen filters. This was expected. But I feel better putting fresh dino-oil (Valvoline 4T 10w-40) into the bike, and the bike rewarded me with an easier time finding neutral.

I am loving this bike more and more each time I ride it!

[3banger]

I'm curious where people are setting up there rear shocks? Here is where I left mine; the preload measurment is the exposed threads on the shock body.

http://www.chinariders.net/picture.php?albumid=115&pictureid=599

[rtking]

I'm curious where people are setting up there rear shocks? Here is where I left mine; the preload measurment is the exposed threads on the shock body.

Interesting. Seems mine was set really loose from the factory. In the attached image, you can see the darker area of the shock body is where the stock setting was. I didn't measure sag, but tried to follow your table (see below.)

8 turns stiffer was indeed pretty stiff, but rode well for my weight (well north of 230 lbs) on smooth highway. Backing off one turn (to 7 turns total toward stiffer) seems to yield the best compromise... but I'll test it out more this coming weekend when I can go for a longer ride.

Just a note that, turning the collar so the Allen head lock-nut on the collar is facing the left side of the bike made adjustment so much easier. A long extension and I can release the Allen head screw, and using leather work gloves, I can reach the spring from the left side and from behind the mud flap to rotate the spring (after unloading the shock, of course.) Very easy.

[jogirob]

I didn't see any mention of the adjustment screw on the bottom of the shock/spring assembly. It has and "increase/decrease" setting. Is this something new for the 2016 models? Or is this screw for fine tuning?

[jbfla]

I didn't see any mention of the adjustment screw on the bottom of the shock/spring assembly. It has and "increase/decrease" setting. Is this something new for the 2016 models? Or is this screw for fine tuning?

It is a rebound damping adjustment.

I spent hours going back and forth over bumpy pavement to get the adjustment right for me.

I changed the setting one click at a time, then tested.

Others have said they could not feel the difference from on setting to the next.

For me it made the ride go from spine jarring to tolerable.

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e341/mascioj/CSC%20Motorcycles/rear%20suspension/damping%20adjustment_zpsk0q9ghsx.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e341/mascioj/CSC%20Motorcycles/rear%20suspension/test%20road%20closeup_zpsyxkjggz8.jpg

jb

[Jay In Milpitas]

I didn't see any mention of the adjustment screw on the bottom of the shock/spring assembly. It has and "increase/decrease" setting. Is this something new for the 2016 models? Or is this screw for fine tuning?

It's not new, it is also on the 2015 models.

[jogirob]

Ah OK thanks for the explanation. The screw is actually shown one of the first photos posted in this tutorial. I don't know how I missed it!

[GSC]

adjusted pre-load today.
went in from left side after disconnecting PCV line from bottom of airbox, two hands with right hand under mudflap makes turning easy.
#4 allen loosened the collar, added 3 turns clockwise or down, job done.
my off road ride much improved.

thanks people for good advise on many ways to gain access.

[nextor]

Im doing this procedure. But the spring is very hard for my hand and only do 4 turns around the spring with my hand. You know any procedure for can do more turns? Thanks-

[Jay In Milpitas]

Im doing this procedure. But the spring is very hard for my hand and only do 4 turns around the spring with my hand. You know any procedure for can do more turns? Thanks-

Is the rear wheel off the ground?

[fjmartin]

Wheel of the ground helps AND do you have the tool? https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Adjustment-Spanner-Spring-Preload/dp/B005SUTYAY. Use it with a 3/8" socket and it's pretty easy

[jbfla]

Im doing this procedure. But the spring is very hard for my hand and only do 4 turns around the spring with my hand. You know any procedure for can do more turns? Thanks-

I used a long punch tool to adjust the rear shock:

https://www.motionpro.com/product/08-0483

Also available on Amazon and other vendors.

You could also try a long flat blade screw driver to turn the adjusting rings.

jb

[ChopperCharles]

The trick to getting any bike on the center stand isn't about pulling backwards at all. I find the rx3 extremely easy to put on the stand - way easier than my old CX500 or my V65 Magna. Put your right foot on the deployment pedal of the center stand. Hold the bike upright with your left hand on the left grip. All the left hand does is stabilze the bike, no pulling whatsoever. Grab the bike somewhere with your right hand as close to directly above your right foot as possible. Your elbow should be completely straight and your shoulder engaged, as if you are about to deadlift a barbell. Stand on the center stand pedal and keep your shoulder engaged. Don't use your biceps at all, the power comes from back, shoulder, and leg. Far bigger muscles than your biceps! If you do it right, the bike will literally shoot up. It requires no backwards pull whatsoever.

Charles.

[Bob Kelly]

Although this thread is mainly about the RX3 I have some info on the RX4 to share
after the initial "first ride" I took out all the preload on my RX4 it has 2 nuts on the shock not a locking collar I just moved the nuts to the top of the shock... I did this to LOWER the bike which it did ! by 2" at least..... but the ride was still as bad as the first ride and it beat me to death.... I put on 121 miles like that and finally decided to attack the harsh ride issue.... I ordered a spring from Race tech and got a 10" long 2" i.d. by 500lb rate spring.... It rode just the same so I pulled off the shock put it in the vice and studied it a while the stock shock is 17" long eyelet to eyelet... it has a progressive or double rate spring on it that is exceedingly stiff... so I thought replacing the spring with something weaker was the answer. I was told that the spring rate of the stock shock was 650lbs so I thought I'd try 500lbs
I was wrong..... the problem was that the shock has a mear 2.1" of travel in it !
and the threads on the upper part of the shock that adjust the pre-load are about 4" long..... as you raise the nuts you lower the piston in the shock so in reality what I did by putting the nuts all the way to the top was bottom out the shock ! because of it's short stroke.... when I realised what I did and how I screwed up I put the stock spring back on and extended the shock all the way UP and then ran the nuts down to the top of the spring....
this will give me maximum shock travel and maximum seat height to my chagrin...
I can no longer flat foot that bike i could when I had the shock bottomed out but the ride was horrible ! I had to run 28 p.s.i. in the rear tire just to be able to ride it !
the only way I can get the seat height down is to buy a lowering kit or make a new horseshoe/dog bone that is longer so if anyone knows of a lowering kit for the RX4 please say so, I'm desperate !
..... the RX4 I have is a 2021 that I got from CSC and the weather is finally good enough to ride it... but it is definitely too tall for me with it lowered 2" I could flat foot both feet as a stop sign and I will have it like that again one way or another.... even if I have to fabricate up my own suspension bracket !.... it won't be the first time !
....
sense the shock on the RX4 only has a 2.1" travel the preload is a joke ! because if you set the preload to the normal sag etc.etc. you stand a real good chance of bottoming out the shock ! and that is probably why they put in such a heavy spring in the first place......
sitting on my bike is like sitting on a park bench there is no give at all....no flex when I get on it or jump up and bounce on it it is rock solid ... and that is the way it came !
....I am trying to change that as the roads around here are rough to say the least !
....
Bob...