Clutch slipping & oil level on LF200?

[guttafixit]

Hello,
I took the bike for a ride 3 days ago. Went up a steep hill in 5th gear. I gave it more throttle and it gained speed. 45 mph at the bottom of the hill and I was going 50 at the top and I didn't have it full throttle. No slipping of the clutch at all.
I went today to get it inspected and I noticed it was slipping a little.
I changed the oil and went for a test ride after fixing the front brake and it was slipping really bad.
The oil looks full. This is oil level in the sight glass. But the level on the dip stick reads over full. :hmm::hmm:
One owners manual I found read that my bike took 1.1 liters (1100 milliliters)
Another one I found read that it takes .9 liters (1000 milliliters) to fill it.
I put 1000 milliliters in it today and the dipstick reads over. I'm lost. lol
Do you think this could cause my clutch to slip being over filled or not enough?
Is my clutch gone and I have to buy a new one?
Bike has about 400 miles on it now.

Any help would be appreciated.
Thank you, Dan

[guttafixit]

Could it be the oil I'm using? Here is a pic of the oil I'm using. Not anywhere on the oil does it show a motorcycle. A guy at work told me it supposed to have a motorcycle on the back of it.

[pete]

are you screwing the dip stick in to get a oil level...
Don't... just sit it on the case...

Sometimes the wrong oil can make the clutch slip
not often but it can happen....
Oil... I only use Motul 5100 "Yamalube" but everyone
has there own preference..

check the cable adjustment for free play , which it should have...

remember this... your motor lives on air & oil.... clean air & good oil...





.

[guttafixit]

are you screwing the dip stick in to get a oil level...
Don't... just sit it on the case...

Yes, If I wasn't there would be less oil showing.

[pete]

Yes, If I wasn't there would be less oil showing.

so you prob got the right amount..screwing the dip stick in is giving a false reading "high"

[guttafixit]

so you prob got the right amount..screwing the dip stick in is giving a false reading "high"

Sounds right. Not sure about the clutch slipping though.

[SpudRider]

As Pete told you, your oil level is correct. Always trust the sight glass; it never lies. Also, don't screw in the oil dip stick. ;)

The Rotella oil you used is good oil; it will not cause your clutch to slip. Once again, I agree with Pete. Check your clutch cable for damage, and make sure it is adjusted properly. ;)

[guttafixit]

As Pete told you, your oil level is correct. Always trust the sight glass; it never lies. Also, don't screw in the oil dip stick. ;)

The Rotella oil you used is good oil; it will not cause your clutch to slip. Once again, I agree with Pete. Check your clutch cable for damage, and make sure it is adjusted properly. ;)

I got a new cable but I will check this morning. Do you think it might stretch this soon? I won't screw the dip stick in next time. Always thought you had to. :shrug:

Thanks, Dan

[guttafixit]

I adjusted the clutch cable down by the clutch lever on the engine. I tried both ways. One way I pull the clutch lever in and it still acts like it's in gear. I went for a test ride and it still slipped. So I went the other way and when the clutch lever is pulled in it acts correctly. But when I went for a test ride it slips really bad. I even added 100 milliliters to the oil figuring maybe it takes 1100 milliliters and it was low causing the slip. Never made a difference.
You think the clutch needs to be cleaned since I had gas mixed in with the oil from running it with the full choke on?
Or I need a new clutch?
I'm going to take the cover off and take a look at the plates.
Any suggestions?
Thanks

[Weldangrind]

Dan, to put a finer point on Spud's comments, don't use the dipstick at all; it's likely wrong. Only use the sight glass, and only when the bike is fully upright.

Too little or marginally too much oil would not have the effect you're experiencing.

Perhaps the previous owner was using regular 10W30 car oil, in which case the clutch would begin to slip. The good news is that new friction discs are cheap on eBay, as is the cover gasket.

I use 15W40 Rotella all the time, in all of my bikes and ATV's.

[guttafixit]

After Pete and Spud told me about the dip stick I used the site glass. But in the 2 owners manuals I found they are different amount of oil to be full. I can see the point of little/over oil shouldn't make a difference. I'll use only the site glass. I'm going to taker some brake cleaner and spray the plates and then see if that makes a difference. If not I'll order new plates. Any idea what I would look for on ebay? I see LF200 GY-S. Don't see any GY-5. For the plates.

Thank you

[guttafixit]

Found some plates.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/EBC-CK-Clutch-Kit-For-Honda-CR-80R-85R-CRF150F-TRX-XR200R-/191187571838?hash=item2c83aad47e&vxp=mtr
Will order them next week.

[humanbeing]

If not I'll order new plates. Any idea what I would look for on ebay? I see LF200 GY-S. Don't see any GY-5. For the plates...

Vertical chonda (CG) plates cames in std or oversize. Nobody knows what's the stock one w/o comapring. Wear limit: 2.6mm
http://gd4.alicdn.com/imgextra/i4/650603356/T2kIWhXe8aXXXXXXXX_!!650603356.jpghttp://gd1.alicdn.com/imgextra/i1/650603356/T2sZuhXlFaXXXXXXXX_!!650603356.jpg
The std one are easy to find (EBC/ Vesrah / Weisco) at EVERY bike shop. Nameless in fleabay works BUT longevity ...
Chinese mechanic trust these brand more .
FCC http://www.fcc-net.co.jp (as Honda OEM)
http://gd4.alicdn.com/imgextra/i4/128798290/T2xl2zXjFaXXXXXXXX_!!128798290.jpg
BM http://www.benmagroup.com/ (as tons domestic maker's OEM)http://gd2.alicdn.com/bao/uploaded/i2/389662530/T2eJx4X5XXXXXXXXXX_!!389662530.jpg

[guttafixit]

I took it apart. Sprayed the clutch plates with brake cleaner. Took my air gun to them to make sure they were dry. I put everything back together. Filled with oil to the "H" on the site glass which is about 1000 milliliters. Took it for a test ride. Went great until I went into 2 to 3 rd gear. While it was in 2nd I rolled on the throttle and I noticed it started to slip. I tried 3rd gear and it was the same.
I took everything back off and ordered the special socket to get the round part off. (Anyone know what that is called and what it does?) I have no clue. lol
Can I use my cordless impact to get that nut off when my socket arrives? Or would it hurt something?
I don't know much about motorcycles. Sorry
I'm going to order the clutch kit.
Humanbeing what brand would you buy if you had to buy a kit? I wanna buy the best one (or close to it). Rather do it right then do it half a*s.

Thank you, Dan

[SpudRider]

For best results you should soak the clutch pads in oil for several hours before you install them. Therefore, your clutch might work better if you let the bike sit overnight, and repeat the test ride tomorrow. ;)

[guttafixit]

For best results you should soak the brake pads in oil for several hours before you install them. Therefore, your brakes might work better if you let the bike sit overnight, and repeat the test ride tomorrow. ;)

Soak brake pads in oil? You mean clutch plates?

[SpudRider]

I'm sorry; I corrected my mistake in the previous post. ;) You are supposed to soak the fiber clutch pads in oil for a few hours before you install them. If you didn't do this, the fiber clutch pads will need to soak up oil from the transmission for a few days before they begin to perform optimally. ;)

[guttafixit]

I'm sorry; I corrected my mistake in the previous post. ;) You are supposed to soak the fiber clutch pads in oil for a few hours before you install them. If you didn't do this, the fiber clutch pads will need to soak up oil from the transmission for a few days before they begin to perform optimally. ;)

I figured that's what you meant. Glad you told me that because I had no idea. I will let them soak couple days before I install them.
Thank you
:tup:

[guttafixit]

Just bought this one.
http://www.amazon.com/EBC-DIRT-RACER-CLUTCHES-Manufacturer/dp/B008YEQLVQ

[SpudRider]

An overnight soaking of the fiber clutch pads in oil is plenty long enough. ;)

[Weldangrind]

I took it apart. Sprayed the clutch plates with brake cleaner. Took my air gun to them to make sure they were dry. I put everything back together. Filled with oil to the "H" on the site glass which is about 1000 milliliters. Took it for a test ride. Went great until I went into 2 to 3 rd gear. While it was in 2nd I rolled on the throttle and I noticed it started to slip. I tried 3rd gear and it was the same.
I took everything back off and ordered the special socket to get the round part off. (Anyone know what that is called and what it does?) I have no clue. lol
Can I use my cordless impact to get that nut off when my socket arrives? Or would it hurt something?
I don't know much about motorcycles. Sorry
I'm going to order the clutch kit.
Humanbeing what brand would you buy if you had to buy a kit? I wanna buy the best one (or close to it). Rather do it right then do it half a*s.

Thank you, Dan

If you sprayed the friction discs with brake cleaner while the clutch was assembled, it would have little effect. By "special socket", do you mean a clutch tool? If so, yes, that is also the correct tool for dismantling the centrifugal oil pump rotor. When you remove the three Phillips screws (which are probably not Phillips, but JIS), you'll find the nut under the cover. That's also the opportunity to clean out the rotor, because sludge will collect there.

I use an impact to remove and install the nut, but I do it gently. Too much force, and you'll break the aluminum rotor.

[Weldangrind]

I've had some friction discs marinating in Rotella for two years now. I think they're almost ready.

[SpudRider]

I've had some friction discs marinating in Rotella for two years now. I think they're almost ready.

Are you sure? :hmm:

:lmao:

[guttafixit]

If you sprayed the friction discs with brake cleaner while the clutch was assembled, it would have little effect. By "special socket", do you mean a clutch tool? If so, yes, that is also the correct tool for dismantling the centrifugal oil pump rotor. When you remove the three Phillips screws (which are probably not Phillips, but JIS), you'll find the nut under the cover. That's also the opportunity to clean out the rotor, because sludge will collect there.

I use an impact to remove and install the nut, but I do it gently. Too much force, and you'll break the aluminum rotor.

That is what I meant about the special socket. Mine had 3 phillips screws that held the cover on. Already clean the gunk that was in there. I will go gentle when I use my impact. I ordered the clutch kit. I already made a tool to hold the centrifugal oil pump rotor while I take the nut off.
When I take the plates off I'm going to measure them.

[Weldangrind]

The tool I use to hold the oil pump rotor is my hand in a glove. I still have all of my fingers. I counted very slowly to be sure.

While you're replacing the friction discs, you might want to replace the clutch springs. If you buy some on eBay, be sure to get the correct amount. I haven't changed mine yet, but when I do, I'll likely use heavy duty aftermarket springs.

[guttafixit]

UPDATE...
I ordered the special socket but it won't be here until next week if that. So I went to the tarp tool store and bought a cheap ($3.00) deep 7/8" socket. I used my caliper to measure where to mark where to cut. After taking the clutch off I looked at the fiber plates. Well some flat. The metal plates had rust on them. I think from sitting for years. Took it for a test ride. I noticed it took off in 1st really aggressive. Like it should be. :tup: Went about 5 miles and went great. :clap: I soaked the new plates in new oil over night.
Thanks everyone....

[guttafixit]

added pics

[SpudRider]

:tup:

[Weldangrind]

Nice work! Glad to hear you were successful.