Valve Adjustment Notes

[NoVa Rider]

Completed my first RX3 valve adjustment. Here are a few observations.

On removing tank: after removing side plastic, and removing rear bolt, lift tank up at rear and pull backwards to release it from the front rubber mount. At this point there are a number of hoses that need to be disconnected if you want to remove tank entirely. For me it was easier to disconnect the two electrical connections, and set the tank down sideways on an old bath towel where the drivers seat goes. (Be careful to completely cover the starter relay and battery terminals: shorting the battery with your fuel tank would probably void CSC's warranty.) I used a second rolled bath towel to help prop the tank up so it was not sitting on the fuel connection, and I also put a strap around the rear of the tank down to the foot peg to ensure it wouldn't topple off. Had to be careful, but this avoided pulling lines off of the tank fittings and disconnecting the fuel injection line.

Taking off the cover and adjusting the intake valves was easy. I set mine at .004 inches. (Edit -- oops, should have been .04 mm to 6mm). But the exhaust valves were a different matter. CSC advises taking the radiators off of their mounts to give you more room for access, but I had difficulty finding a wrench that would fit the upper mount bolts: they are easy to see but the upper radiator hoses make it difficult to put a socket on them, and their position under the frame makes it difficult to get a wrench on them. (Edit: 8mm T handle like Spud suggests or an 8mm 1/4 inch socket on an extension works. ) So I tried leaving the radiators in place, got the cover off the exhaust valves, and squirmed around until I found a position where I could see the valve adjusters and get a hand on them. I eventually got a .006 feeler gauge under both, liked the setting, so I did not have to adjust either exhaust valve. (Again, oops -- should have used a .06 mm gauge!) It's better to unbolt the radiators.

As I prepared to reinstall the tank, I found a curved tab on the inner right frame member just where the fuel line "cannister" (the fuel filter) goes. Looked to me as if the tab was intended to secure a fuel line for a carb version of the RX3: it did not fit around the fuel filter and also would not fit into a slot on the side of the filter. I ended up bending the tab downwards slightly (its light metal and will break off easily), and just ensured that nothing was pinched as I reinstalled the tank. I considered using a zip tie to help secure the fuel line but decided against it.

Not a lot of problems. A couple of places reminded me that the RX3 is not quite up to Japanese fit/finish/assembly standards. Such as the curved tab that does not seem to fit the fuel injection line, and also a couple of cross threaded bolts holding the plastic in place. But its all back together and working well.

[SpudRider]

Completed my first RX3 valve adjustment. Here are a few observations.

On removing tank: after removing side plastic, and removing rear bolt, lift tank up at rear and pull backwards to release it from the front rubber mount. At this point there are a number of hoses that need to be disconnected if you want to remove tank entirely. For me it was easier to disconnect the two electrical connections, and set the tank down sideways on an old bath towel where the drivers seat goes. (Be careful to completely cover the battery terminals: shorting the battery with your fuel tank would probably void CSC's warranty.) I used a second rolled bath towel to help prop the tank up so it was not sitting on the fuel connection, and I also put a strap around the rear of the tank down to the foot peg to ensure it wouldn't topple off. Had to be careful, but this avoided pulling lines off of the tank fittings and disconnecting the fuel injection line...

After removing the rear bolt from the fuel tank, I pulled the tank back from the rubber mount. Then I placed the tank on top of the rubber mount so I had enough clearance beneath the tank to unhook the two vent hoses, and the two electrical connections for the fuel pump and the fuel gauge. With all other hoses and wires disconnected, I then disconnected the fuel line from the fuel filter. As the fuel started to leak, I flipped the fuel tank upside down, and the leaking stopped. Then I moved the fuel tank away from the bike, and set it to rest in the upside down position. ;)

...CSC advises taking the radiators off of their mounts to give you more room for access, but I had difficulty finding a wrench that would fit the upper mount bolts: they are easy to see but the upper radiator hoses make it impossible to put a socket on them, and their position under the frame makes it difficult to get a wrench on them. A wrench with a swivel socket end might work but I don't have one. So I ended up leaving the radiators in place, got the cover off the exhaust valves, and squirmed around until I found a position where I could see the valve adjusters and get a hand on them. I eventually got a .006 feeler gauge under both, liked the setting, so I did not have to adjust either exhaust valve. It would have been doable but fiddly. Perhaps I'll time my next valve adjustment to coincide with a coolant change so I can remove top radiator hoses, and get the radiators moved out of the way, just in case the exhaust valves need adjusting...

I used my Tusk Compact T-Handle Wrench Set to remove the radiator bolts. I believe I used the 8mm socket. I am sure one will find it very frustrating, if not impossible, to adjust the exhaust valve lash without getting the radiators out of the way. ;) The T-handle sockets make this job, and many other jobs very easy. :tup: I highly recommend this T-handle wrench set. :)

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/989/14349/Tusk-Compact-T-Handle-Wrench-Set?term=tusk%20t-handle%20set

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/t/tus_07_com_t_han_wre.jpg

I use these T-handle wrenchs all the time while working on my Honda CRF250X. :tup: I don't know what I would do without these tools. ;)

[NoVa Rider]

Good suggestions Spud. I hadn't thought about flipping the tank to keep fuel from running out after disconnecting the fuel line.

[SpudRider]

Thank you for starting this thread, and sharing your experience. :tup: If everyone shares his tips, we can all learn from each other. :)

[Co2]

This theme is pure mystery, NovaRider said 004 "inch", but i research and coming ansvers is sad 004"milimeter" and 006 "milimeter" ...

Solved methodology : need a victim^^ a zero kilometer rx3 owner, and first job making for help checking the valve values.

Or need zs177mm " services manual " , thanks for topic.

[SpudRider]

The CSC RX3 Service Manual species the following valve clearances. ;)

Intake valves: 0.04-0.06 mm
Exhaust valves: 0.04-0.06 mm

[Co2]

The CSC RX3 Service Manual species the following valve clearances. ;)

Intake valves: 0.04-0.06 mm
Exhaust valves: 0.04-0.06 mm

Thank you:thanks::tup:

[NoVa Rider]

My mistake on the valve adjustment clearances. Thanks to Co2 and Spud for catching this!

There was already a discussion of this on the valve clearance sticky.

What threw me off was my prior experience working on cars and motorcycles. My experience is that .004 inch to .008 inch (often called '4 thou' or '8 thou') is a common range for valve clearances. So when I saw the .04 to .06 range for the RX3, I failed to look closely and just assumed we were talking 4 to 6 'thou', rather than .04 to .06 mm.

Also, when I just did my first adjustment, I found the exhaust valves were both almost exactly .006 inch, so that reinforced my belief that we were in fact dealing with 'thou' rather than mm.

In fact, the sticker on the RX3 indicates the range should be .04 mm to .06 mm. Just like the CSC materials.

.05 mm is roughly equivalent to .002 inch. I have that blade on my feeler gauge, so I plan to redo the valve adjustment and set them at a middle spec of .002 inch. Once I get a wrench to fit the upper radiator bolts, that is.

.002 inch is a tight clearance in my experience, but then this is a small displacement motor with four valves.

I've only ridden a few miles with the looser valve settings, which were close to the original settings anyway, so I can't comment on whether I was hearing more valve "tappy."

[Co2]

Mystery is'not end:hmm: service manual and adviced sad 0.04 milimeter(20/1milimeter?) intake , 0.06 milimeter exhaust
0.02 inch = 0.508 millimeters ? ( i understand this is a half milimeter?? )

My old and new filler gauge ( old start 0.05 and plus all 0.5 milimeter +++, but new start 0.02 and all 0.02++ 0.04+0.06+0.08....)

Values = 0.04 - 0.06 milimeter? i understand 1/20 or 1/18 mikrometer?? or im wrong ?

Again, best methode a new rx3 user helped this theme, and all know this, coorporations always hide this service secrets because need services maintenance payment, but me and other little village peoples non always finding services problem this:shrug:

[NoVa Rider]

There is an extra zero in the 'inch' figure. So it's .002 inch equals .051 mm. I think that should resolve the issue.

But thanks again for catching my mistake. I just reset my valves (and I did manage to get the upper radiator bolts out). I set the intakes to .002 inch, but went with a .003 inch gauge for the exhausts. Looser than the Zongshen spec (its closer to .08 mm rather than .06 mm) but close enough I think, especially since the bike only has 500 miles on it.

Maybe it's my imagination but it does seem quieter.

Thanks again for helping me through this. I feel like a noob again.

[dave92029]

I turned 600 miles today and I'm planning on doing the 1000km service tomorrow.

I read this discussion and decided to verify that my Sear's feeler gauge had .06mm. It did not, so I went to the local Harbor Freight (open till 9pm on Sat.) with the 25% off July 4th coupon and picked a feeler gauge with .04mm &.06mm. I also got a free LCD flashlight.

Again Thank you. Wish me luck tomorrow taking the bike apart to get to the valves...and putting back together.

[SpudRider]

Good luck, Dave. :)

The first inspection/adjustment requires the most time. After you learn the tricks, the next inspection/adjustment will go much quicker. :tup:

[Co2]

0.04 Milimeter , 0.06 Milimeter values is CONFİRMED.

This my 3rd check valves story, but this time ok.

İmportant Note's : 4t motos 2x time find TDC(top dead center) , never try our hand skill (master skills) , every time moto block on screws remove and see all marks ok for tdc

Moto block down is camshaft/alternator/volant mark.

Moto block top 2 screw window is camsahft chain on marks as "IL" and "RL" marks .
follow and found, later adjusted valve's , other ways = damaged valve's , i experienced that theme :)
Good condition after 300 kilometer riding 0.04 and 0.06 mm sett new valves.



Have nice day's . co2.

[ElectricCircus]

Mystery is'not end:hmm: service manual and adviced sad 0.04 milimeter(20/1milimeter?) intake , 0.06 milimeter exhaust.

The service manual for the RX3's colombian version (AKT TT 250 Adventour, carbureted) states the same: 0,04mm intake, 0,06mm exhaust.

[SpudRider]

Several service manuals available to us in the United States, including the CSC Service Manual, give the following specifications for valve lash.

Intake valve: 0.04 - 0.06 mm
Exhaust valve: 0.04 - 0.06 mm

I have been using these specifications for over 10,000 miles, and I am sure they are correct. ;)

[mckayprod]

LOTS of trouble with this procedure today. I couldn't disconnect the electrical connector on the tank and couldn't figure out how to plug all those hose connections. So I left the tank on and got to the valvetrain from the sides. Not enough space for a vertical screwdriver so it was "rotate and pray" until the setting was right. I figure if my .051 mm gauge fits but my .064 mm doesn't, I'm OK. But those are really floppy feeler gauges...trying to slide one in the mostly invisible spot it has to go is, as we used to say in timber country, "like trying to push a logging chain uphill".

NOW, the bike won't start. It tries, but won't catch and run. So, did I get the valves too tight or too loose? Checked spark plug, etc. I suspect measurement error.

HELP, Magic Forum!

[AZRider]

You may not have a valve problem if you truly believe that your adjustment was done correctly. Check your fuel connections as you may not be getting fuel. Inspect the spark plug to see if it's wet and make sure that you're getting a spark.

[mckayprod]

Thanks for the reply...plug was a little wet (not dripping) and plenty of spark (ouch!). I had so much trouble manipulating feeler gauges that I don't trust my settings. The valves seemed WAY tight when I measured them before the adjustment. The bike ran fine. Did I get them too loose?

[SpudRider]

I suggest you do the valve adjustment again. Here are a few tips to help you with the fuel tank. ;)

Go to your local auto parts store and get some 1/4" vacuum caps. The following package contains 4, which are red in color. ;)

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/detail/DAG0/47397/N1167.oap?ck=Search_N1167_-1_3701&pt=N1167&ppt=N1171

http://images.oreillyauto.com/parts/img/medium/dag/47397-003.jpg

Work on the right side of the motorcycle.

Place an old blanket behind the fuel tank before you remove the bolt which holds the fuel tank in place.

Remove the bolt, and lift the rear of the fuel tank. Slide the blanket under the rear of the fuel tank.

Pull back on the tank to remove it from the frame. Rest the fuel tank on its left side on top of the blanket.

Disconnect the 2-pin connector which attaches to the fuel gauge.
Using a flat screwdriver, pry open the buckle connector which attaches to the fuel pump.

Remove the two hoses from the fuel tank.

Press the two buttons, and remove the fuel hose on the nipple which is pointing upward. Let the small amount of fuel drain from the loose hose. Place one of the 1/4" vacuum plugs over the nipple to seal the fuel tank.

Turn the fuel tank on its back. Press the two buttons, and remove the fuel hose on the other nipple. Let the small amount of fuel drain from the loose hose. Place one of the 1/4" vacuum plugs over the nipple to seal the fuel tank.

Remove the fuel tank from the motorcycle, and set it aside in an upright position. Now you will have enough room to adjust the intake valves. :)

Set all four valves to 0.08 mm. A little too loose is better than a little too tight. ;)

After the valve adjustment is done, replace the fuel tank by following the steps above in reverse. :)

[mckayprod]

OK, got it, Spud. I'll post when I get the new valve setting set. Thanks.

[SpudRider]

You're welcome, and good luck. :)

[rtking]

Spud's instructions are excellent (as usual!)

Just a bit of advice: Once you're done setting the valves, turn the engine over by hand so the valves are actuated. You'll see when you're on the base circle of the cam because neither the exhaust or intake valves are moving. Once you are at that point where both sets of valves are at their highest position (no load on any of the valves), insert your feeler gauge again and ensure you have the correct clearance.

As Spud said, looser is better than tighter, but too loose and you'll get a lot of valve train clatter.

Take your time, and take a break after adjusting the valves. Better to get it right than to do the job again.

[mckayprod]

ALRIGHTY THEN! Removed the tank and set the valves as per Spud. Learned a trick...take the feeler gauge out of the handle. It moves better that way. Set clearance tight with the .076 mm, and the .064 mm slid right in. Juggled all the hoses back into place and she started right up.

Thanks for all the help. I'll be changing oil and checking the chain tomorrow.

[SpudRider]

ALRIGHTY THEN! Removed the tank and set the valves as per Spud. Learned a trick...take the feeler gauge out of the handle. It moves better that way. Set clearance tight with the .076 mm, and the .064 mm slid right in. Juggled all the hoses back into place and she started right up.

Thanks for all the help. I'll be changing oil and checking the chain tomorrow.

I'm glad you got the bike running again. :tup:

Yes, I always remove the feeler gauges from the holder. It is very important to do so with the smaller gauges, especially when used in cramped quarters. ;)

[GSC]

So when I turn the crank, and align marks in view hole on stater, must i turn clockwise or counter clockwise? One way is easier to turn, but I don't want to mess it up, you know.
Thanks for experienced advise here

[SpudRider]

Turn the crankshaft counter-clockwise. I always turn the crankshaft toward the front of the motorcycle, in the same direction it turns while the engine is running. ;)

[GSC]

Thanks Spudrider
Its so nice to get the real truth.
Thats the opposite of what the coffee shop guys just told me.
Back out in the garage I go.

[rtking]

GSC - just want to suggest that having the valve covers off and watching the rockers as your rotate the engine counter-clockwise is helpful as well. That way you can tell when both intake and exhaust valves are unloaded by the cam lobes and verify by looking at the timing mark.

[SpudRider]

GSC - just want to suggest that having the valve covers off and watching the rockers as your rotate the engine counter-clockwise is helpful as well. That way you can tell when both intake and exhaust valves are unloaded by the cam lobes and verify by looking at the timing mark.

That's a good tip. :)

I always remove the valve covers first. ;) After I rotate the crankshaft to TDC, I reach up and wiggle the exhaust tappets to see if I am on the compression stroke. If the tappets are tight, the piston is on the exhaust stroke, so I rotate the crankshaft another 360 degrees. :)

[Jay In Milpitas]

So when I turn the crank, and align marks in view hole on stater, must i turn clockwise or counter clockwise? One way is easier to turn, but I don't want to mess it up, you know.
Thanks for experienced advise here

The reason it turns easier CCW (counter clockwise) is that when turning clockwise you are now engaging the roller clutch for the electric starter and trying to turn it as well.

It should not harm anything turning clockwise small amounts, but one should not do it a lot.

Congrats on your first valve adjustment!

[SpudRider]

... Congrats on your first valve adjustment!

Indeed, good for you. :) The first time takes the longest. The next time you will be done much more quickly. :tup:

[Lee R]

I agree wholeheartedly with Spud, worked on a friends over the weekend and the 2nd check took less than half the time once I figured out how to hold the radiators (bungees) and send my arm between the front forks.

This bike keeps impressing me. Zongshen makes great bikes!

[GSC]

Thanks Jay and All,
Turning crank counter clockwise was the trick. My first time ever and with ya'lls help a total success. The 2nd time in this wknd I only pulled left radiator out of the way with a bungee.
1st time I must have had it on the exhaust stroke. Big difference huh?

Last week I installed heated grips @ BikeMaster and Enduro Engineering CSC's grip guards. Ready for winter riding now!
Thanks to you for being there for this rank novice.
Even Gerry at CSC wrote me back. And on a Sunday morning?

[SpudRider]

...1st time I must have had it on the exhaust stroke. Big difference huh?...

Yes, that definitely makes a difference. ;)

[woodlandsprite]

Ugh. I have the valve covers off and 3 valves seem too tight but I can't seem to budge the valve lock nuts. Using an 8mm combo wrench. Just what direction should I be turning looking down from the top?

[SpudRider]

The tappets have a conventional thread. Looking from the top, turn counter-clockwise (left) to loosen the lock nuts.

Good luck with your valve adjustment. :) Be patient, and take your time. The job will certainly go much faster the next time you do it. I'll be checking in periodically to see if you have more questions. ;)

[rtking]

Woodland sprite... I'm sure you've got it covered, but wanted to just say it (just in case) that all load be off the valve before you try to loosen the locking nut. (i.e. you should be able to wiggle the valve tappet slightly.)

Spud is correct... "lefty loosey, righty tight." It may be a bit tough to loosen, but if having difficulty, using another wrench (or hammer) on the wrench to tap lightly will help to loosen. Just don't round-off the nut!

Good luck!

[AZRider]

Sprite, it you're using a combo wrench then you're not able to generate enough torque to overcome the production tightening. You should be able to get a socket on the nut, then use a breaker bar to loosen. Do not use a breaker bar to tighten, use a torque wrench if possible or get a feel for the torque on another nut then use your socket set to replicate. Good luck.

[Jay In Milpitas]

I'd gotten tired of looking in to the hole in the alternator cover for the mark and remembered that the cam timing marks are easily viewed through the screw plugs in the head. :doh:

By watching for the "L" mark in the rear (intake) hole, you know you are just about to see the "R" mark in about 90 degrees crank rotation.

http://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=198316&postcount=5

Third picture down. Note,,,,,,, they're not really yellow.

[woodlandsprite]

Thanks everyone
I thought for a while I was going to have to come in here and post a plea to try to bribe AZRider into giving me a hand :P

Managed to get my hands a little dirty today without breaking a nail ;)

https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5636/23326921734_f4c86271f1.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/Bxjz8L)

Got the bike apart, managed to dribble gasoline all over various things while the tank was upside down (didn't manage to siphon it completely dry) - luckily I remembered to buy vacuum caps so I could flip it back over after plugging the gas lines outputs.

I did manage to break the retaining tab on the bigger electrical connector - could not get it to release, then when I tried to "encourage" it by prying it up a little, it snapped. The connector seems to fit fairly snugly, so I didn't do anything to try to secure it better (I suppose I could have deployed some self fusing tape).

I wound up taking the feelergages out of the housing because they were a right pain in the you know what trying to get to the valves at the front of the bike. Speaking of which, those were THE WORST to try to get to what with the radiators constantly getting in the way.

I did not reseat the valve cover bolts with a torque wrench, but I did try to tighten them relatively snugly...the rear ones went on easily with a T handled wrench, the front ones...I managed to finally get a socket on them. As for the valve lock nuts, I was never able to get a socket on the front ones - the rear ones were reachable with the t-handled wrench if I remember right - I was seriously worried I was going to round them off the way it was going!

If anything, my valves might be a hair loose now, but I *think* 3 of them were on the tight side - either that or I was having issues with the feeler gauges catching on something. buttoned the bike back up and made sure it started ;) didn't get a chance to take it out for a ride - husband noted there was a lot of traffic (and likely distracted drivers) out this afternoon, so I didn't go for a test drive after I put everything back together.

Here's the proof that I finally got inside the bike ;)
https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5757/23955683155_9ab20766dd.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/CuT8ZV)

Thanks again for being so helpful and supportive - it was an interesting day getting intimate with my zong ;) :hehe:

[Jay In Milpitas]

Ya done good, Kiddo!

[woodlandsprite]

Ya done good, Kiddo!

Thanks Jay :) I just hope I had the engine turned right - I didn't read through the tips about checking the tappets to see if they jiggled or not - had a heck of a time seeing the mark through the view cap - was so happy when I finally spotted it I went straight to the valves. I guess I'll find out if it sounds rather tappy - when I fired it up, it didn't sound significantly different than I did before I took it apart, so I'm assuming it's done alright...

just for my reference in the future, which ones are the exhaust valves?

[rtking]

just for my reference in the future, which ones are the exhaust valves?

Well done, Woodlandsprite! Sounds like you did it properly. If you didn't line up the marks properly, you'd likely have A LOT of valve noise as the gaps would have been too wide. (Ask me how I know!)

The exhaust valves are the "pain in the patoiee" ones to reach. (i.e. The valves at the front of the bike.)

[Jay In Milpitas]

The exhaust valves are the ones where the exhaust pipe lives.

The valve covers do not need the bolts very tight, just enough to make the rubber seal and the bolts to not back out.

That lock tab on the fuel pump connector is far too close to the mount bolt to suit me, too. You are probably right about it being such a snug fit that the tab isn't needed. Just in case, keep that fact in the back of your mind in case some day the engine quits for no reason. If it does, just peek in there to see if it has popped out.

I agree that valve adjustment on the RX-3 is a nuisance, but it's the only complaint I have about the bike.

[SpudRider]

I'd gotten tired of looking in to the hole in the alternator cover for the mark and remembered that the cam timing marks are easily viewed through the screw plugs in the head. :doh:

By watching for the "L" mark in the rear (intake) hole, you know you are just about to see the "R" mark in about 90 degrees crank rotation.

http://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=198316&postcount=5

Third picture down. Note,,,,,,, they're not really yellow.

That's the way to do it. :tup: It is not only easier, but you will never make a mistake by adjusting the valves on the exhaust stroke, instead of the compression stroke. ;)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zong%20Engine%20Rebuild%2051687%20Miles/Camshaft%20Timing_zpskghfuotu.jpg

[SpudRider]

Good for you, Sprite. :tup: The next time you will complete the job much faster, since you are now more familiar with the entire procedure. :)

[Lee R]

I find a soda straw in the spark plug hole works really well to judge what stroke your on as well, you can see it rise all the way to the top on compression and you know your at TDC. Get the flexible end type and bend the top at an angle to prevent it from falling all the way in. The rocker arms should "wiggle" a small amount when you rock them side to side. This is how I check the Guzzi valves without pulling all the rubber plugs to find the index mark.

Shifting to a high gear and using the rear wheel (on a stand) also makes it easy to cycle through strokes.

The timing marks also look like a good technique.

Here's a good video of how each stroke works for those who are curious or don't know already.
http://youtu.be/OGj8OneMjek

[Weldangrind]

I say this with all respect: Atta girl, Sprite! Good for you for jumping in and taking care of it.

[AZRider]

Way to go Sprite. And for future reference, I'm retired and have plenty of time on my hands, so would be happy to help any time you have the need.

[willy dog]

adj. valves yesterday all went well, took the zong out for 130 miles valve cover on exhaust side was leaking. always carry spare oil got it home o ring looked fine nothing loose cleaned everything up again this time put thin layer of permitex any body else had this problem?

[Inroads]

One of my intakes was leaking turns out you can install upside down.

[rjmorel]

And you can't swap intake cover for exhaust cover if memory serves me right. I marked mine before I took them off the first time, always put them back on according to that and they have never leaked. rj

[willy dog]

i knew intake and exhaust were diff. i know i got that right did not know could install upside down, it is right now don't no how it was when leaking thank you all

[SpudRider]

One of my intakes was leaking turns out you can install upside down.

And you can't swap intake cover for exhaust cover if memory serves me right. I marked mine before I took them off the first time, always put them back on according to that and they have never leaked. rj

:)

In addition, eventually the O-rings will harden, leak oil, and need to be replaced. ;)

http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/PART-2-ON-ILLUSTRATION-RING-p/z10-101.htm

[detours]

I thought both valve covers were identical, but I guess not. They definitely can be installed upside down. The bolt holes are oriented different on each side.

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/32635978824.html?productId=32635978824

[dave92029]

How many have found that their valves were unchanged from their previous adjustment? No adjustment required.

[SpudRider]

How many have found that their valves were unchanged from their previous adjustment? No adjustment required.

With 14,000 miles on the odometer, I have adjusted the valve lash about six times. Perhaps once the valve lash was unchanged from the previous adjustment. :shrug: That's why I check the valve lash every 2,500 miles, as originally specified by CSC.

[willy dog]

doing 2nd valve adj. as i type when i pulled plug wire and plug noticed end of plug has threaded part no little cap that threads on is that normal or did i lose the cap on the plug

[detours]

doing 2nd valve adj. as i type when i pulled plug wire and plug noticed end of plug has threaded part no little cap that threads on is that normal or did i lose the cap on the plug

That's normal. There is no smooth cap on our plugs. It just sits on the threads.

[willy dog]

thank you detours once again you save the day on a side note checked valves at 500miles did not need adj now at around 1800miles still not tight not really winding it up much past 8000rpms should i wait till 2500miles and check again it runs great :thanks:

[rjmorel]

Willy, I didn't do my first valve check until 2500 on the clock so unless you drastically change your riding style like riding it like a teenager you should be OK

[Ron B]

I guess CSC changed it. my new manual says check/adjust at 500 and then every 5000 from then on.

[jbfla]

I guess CSC canged it. my new manual says check/adjust at 500 and then every 5000 from then on.

That's what I was led to believe....

...and I ended up with a damaged camshaft and associated parts....

....which would have cost me hundreds of $$$ to repair if not for the kindness of CSC.

I was advised to check the valve clearances every 2,500 miles.

jb

[detours]

I guess CSC canged it. my new manual says check/adjust at 500 and then every 5000 from then on.

Officially, CSC did change the valve check/adjust intervals to 500, then 5000 thereafter. This was after they took that 5000 mile Western Tour and saw very little valve wear. The new recommendation assumes that you are using the new 0.08 mm gap recommendation (instead of 0.06 mm). If you set a smaller gap, you should check it more frequently.

For myself, I'm going to stick with a 2500 or 3000 mile valve check until I am confident in a longer interval.

[madsocial]

We'll be doing the 500 mile service today. We'll keep you posted on how it goes. We plan on keeping them at .08 setting, if they have even moved.

Hope you guys have a great Saturday! Pics/video coming later.

[2LZ]

We'll be doing the 500 mile service today. We'll keep you posted on how it goes. We plan on keeping them at .08 setting, if they have even moved.

Hope you guys have a great Saturday! Pics/video coming later.
That's what I set mine at, even though the tutorial stated .06. Three of the four valves were at .08 out of factory, so I set the fourth one there also. I only had about 120 miles on it but I wanted to check them out of paranoia since the "jbfla incident".

Good luck, take your time and keep some valium on hand. ;-)

[dpl096]

That's what I set mine at, even though the tutorial stated .06. Three of the four valves were at .08 out of factory, so I set the fourth one there also. I only had about 120 miles on it but I wanted to check them out of paranoia since the "jbfla incident".

Good luck, take your time and keep some valium on hand. ;-)

I'm doing mine at 500 but I'm with 2LZ, I believe I'm going to go with .08 ...

[detours]

We'll be doing the 500 mile service today. We'll keep you posted on how it goes. We plan on keeping them at .08 setting, if they have even moved.

Hope you guys have a great Saturday! Pics/video coming later.

You'll do fine. Just take it slow and allow plenty of time. Make sure the locknuts are torqued down nice and tight, whether or not you adjust the gap.

[jbfla]

......... Make sure the locknuts are torqued down nice and tight.....

How are you able to get a torque wrench on the exhaust valve adjusters?

jb

[detours]

How are you able to get a torque wrench on the exhaust valve adjusters?

jb

I just meant tighten them up :tup:

[madsocial]

QUICK UPDATE-

Got the job done. I'll post pics in the morning. I'm too damn tired. :zzz: We have to do the damn valve adjustment again tomorrow. Only this time, I know it won't take 5 hours! I kept telling my husband .08mm. Turns out his filler gauges are in INCHES and we ended up setting the valves to .008in!!!!! :wtf: :ohno: :cry:

BE SURE you are doing 'milimeters' ...if you are doin it in "inches" or SAE, be sure it is .003 inches. That equates to .08mm.

Live and learn. Thank God we didn't run the bike long. The tapping was so loud you heard it over the exhaust. :cry:

I bought a newer filler gauge! :tup:

[BlackBike]

QUICK UPDATE-

Got the job done. I'll post pics in the morning. I'm too damn tired. :zzz: We have to do the damn valve adjustment again tomorrow. Only this time, I know it won't take 5 hours! I kept telling my husband .08mm. Turns out his filler gauges are in INCHES and we ended up setting the valves to .008in!!!!! :wtf: :ohno: :cry:

BE SURE you are doing 'milimeters' ...if you are doin it in "inches" or SAE, be sure it is .003 inches. That equates to .08mm.

Live and learn. Thank God we didn't run the bike long. The tapping was so loud you heard it over the exhaust. :cry:

I bought a newer filler gauge! :tup:

Classic....

Practice makes perfect

[Lee R]

I did my second adjustment today (3000 miles on the bike) and all of them were at .03-4mm. I adjusted everything to .08mm and I'll check again at 6000. I'm not confident in the 5000 mile interval just yet. It's back to happy-tappy and just about ready for a 3000 mile ride.

By the way the method of lining up the two cam sprocket markers and the index line make things quite a bit easier and foolproof when setting TDC.

[surfndirt]

Did my first adjustment today at 2000 mi. Intake valves were still .08mm, exhaust weren't bad at .04 and .05, but I got them back to .08.

Fairings, gas tank, took me about 25 minutes. Next most annoying thing was when I was going to take the crank cover off, that dribbled a little oil which was fine...then I opened the front view port and oil gushed out - I quickly closed it. For some reason no one's ever noted this would be an issue. I know it'd be fine with a center stand. I found TDC without the viewport anyway through spark plug hole and a thin screw driver - and obviously the L&R cam chain covers.

Overall it was a lot easier than I expected and would probably take 2-3 hrs next time.

[Lee R]

Nice work on the valve check, you basically just tackled the hardest part of routine maintenance on a bike.

Those exhaust valves would be far easier if that metal bar wasn't right in the way! I wish that had another bolt on the other end you it could be easily removed and out of the way, then the check would be far easier.

I prop the tank up like so to save the trouble of removing it. Run it near empty or you'll get some spillage from the breather tube.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/BW9xxBrGtnX-kKDCA6TD8k_-SzA5Noa-ZfBx78SqEs9P80HETBWSD_ol6ODxH3JSj2SRfy5OksjSNTghXX UHYLU73g74Oa72X2lt7TchIlfu4_zX6yoFP5N7sIztJ6m9pzUu nGIxaXhDpJ5QDcxhI5xnfHR2B1mY_aMhwsIABprVuCmjVqc3tR gDfnShuv34BdpWBM71E8Sp7qQ6dM-zCXsQJEkDjQSeZumgOmpdm6k527LDZ-DTQXAQLyU8nAomEDOWBcNWcACm1NHkSQe65Q2mdYz0-J67y7gimjJTgla4fhrUy0LiynVkU5Stj08aFYiWZ5oIxWt2vmL I_ZdQs_gJH7dfy1r2uizFeDEEcbTotqtqhFRwoN5laIq7QKA4y 6MpxJa8gdSEUMMDAVmVx9efkH-yONTFznjL8o309nm2nCfC7LW7Dqzp5QhGDe2TP0IR8RSpftVfS P4SWBZ46DNR6QialXmgX0pI4uSeSaqaSaCWaPWvPzRhuPUrJpl Jj6Ax5q7ixnMQXfE1PUgn59431iFcqxdjSrq28P7PUR8P5WPLn _s7xORbeSqwAFp8cSAOjuW9bu94ZM1-1iN9Pyl0tO6OD6A=w1698-h955-no

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/58ehdsdJHooIsqrVTbLMNQBL5cLKipqsOa-MXfaEVqgyZGF1AYYTw89w5sDKRrCAhhROzYIG0tFHCWHRHgA4x-RQL5WgWncMBumc5qeJGwSAK0DfZnRveR0Y1i906oDcdP2Ua7cO ctxIIvASLjGjiWiR-hY_9CwKVM4E_sCMLKkN1Q9Q9rJoAESG5NCG-uw49H0ijTTYAvtiEjt9ZjiyRC9Gf6W4iHkqBl0KyulCPhyn344 Rhu9KtefTs5dt7D3S6j57ZFtwEImeaCdCkpfozpX74KhCBVdmb FQ42Uh4QGxWe-0AUS6y3U9KKtng5-sT7rh2VlWjhd_QsLuhzDlaz2X8hN7WkZO19zIpqrfo76qSK0Xg dEqV6DrrDwq5Q7tEGPVUftb4-JG07tVEOky-SCGnxKp8T9g0P2eHQd34XUK6yFjawkVdPSOIG5PCPH8VfUJBo8 7Lk4CLmk6zel2Yc6W6C9UuEhYRaYElwCLVvirPuK8yeQ0NmOom BoMfr5fHdUdFkjquhPlUYm9bfJA4etAceA12Okfiq3mLfjfckr 9Ti2g1YifotGh6SmLFpqBlDRWjQq7M5uCYlznT8M5JbUVDOZrc 5ls=w1698-h955-no

[detours]

rNex most annoying thing was when I was going to take the crank cover off, that dribbled a little oil which was fine...then I opened the front view port and oil gushed out - I quickly closed it.

I've had a little oil come out the front view port, but it hasn't ever gushed. On the other hand, I never open that port anymore because I use the timing chain ports and it's much easier.

[Lee R]

Yeah the timing chain ports are the way to go, so much easier. The service manual should have people do it that way, takes the error out of finding TDC.

I always check for a tiny bit of free play in the rockers just to be sure.

[willy dog]

2700 miles and valves still need no adjustment i feel left out. Fastest blue lives in 5th gear 7000-8500 rpms or 3rd 6000to 7500 who knows guess i am to easy on the ZONG

[dpl096]

Thanx for the post WD ... I did my 500 mile the other day and mine didnt need adjusted. I'm glad to hear someone else went though the 500 check without adjustment - ive worried some that I didnt check them correctly. Ditto on using the timing chain ports as TDC alignment assist.....made it a lot easier.

[2LZ]

Thanx for the post WD ... I did my 500 mile the other day and mine didnt need adjusted. I'm glad to hear someone else went though the 500 check without adjustment - ive worried some that I didnt check them correctly. Ditto on using the timing chain ports as TDC alignment assist.....made it a lot easier.

I'm going to go back through mine again. When I checked mine, 3 were fine and one seemed a little tight. I think the one I adjusted I loosened too much and now here one slightly louder tick. Drives me nuts. Should have left it alone!

[dpl096]

I'm going to go back through mine again. When I checked mine, 3 were fine and one seemed a little tight. I think the one I adjusted I loosened too much and now here one slightly louder tick. Drives me nuts. Should have left it alone!

I had the brake side exhaust that was the tightest but I didnt mess with it. I'll rest easier after the 1000 mile check.

[GSC]

I did my valve check today. Found all 4 at a tight .005" inches.
Thats kinda loose I'd say. Yes I used the cam chain ports and dbl. checked with the T bar regestration on the stator.

So I reset the intakes to .003" inches and left the exhaust's alone at the found .005"inches. Figuring they'd get tight on there own?
Now I know .005" is way outa spec. but CSC sets 'em at .003" or .08mm.

Bike ran very good , so my question is may I leave those exhaust valves at .005" or .13mm?

Spec is .04-.06 mm or .0015"-.0025" inches

I hope i'm not getting to, you know, 'out there' about all this. Any thoughts or advise?

[BlackBike]

I did my valve check today. Found all 4 at a tight .005" inches.
Thats kinda loose I'd say. Yes I used the cam chain ports and dbl. checked with the T bar regestration on the stator.

So I reset the intakes to .003" inches and left the exhaust's alone at the found .005"inches. Figuring they'd get tight on there own?
Now I know .005" is way outa spec. but CSC sets 'em at .003" or .08mm.

Bike ran very good , so my question is may I leave those exhaust valves at .005" or .13mm?

Spec is .04-.06 mm or .0015"-.0025" inches

I hope i'm not getting to, you know, 'out there' about all this. Any thoughts or advise?

you lost me at...math :hmm:

[NoVa Rider]

GSC, you've done Baja so I assume you have some miles on the bike. So we can presume settings have stabilized somewhat. For me .005 inches would be too loose and when I had a chance I'd go back in and reset the exhausts to .003. There is no real advantage to running too loose and it can increase wear over the long haul. Short term won't hurt. I just did my check, 4000 miles since previous, intakes had loosened a bit, exhausts were unchanged. I set intakes at .002 inch and exhausts at .003.

[GSC]

Thanks Nova

That's the kinda stuff I wanted to hear. Experienced advise.

Actually its a warranty replacement engine w 1k miles

[2LZ]

GSC, you've done Baja so I assume you have some miles on the bike. So we can presume settings have stabilized somewhat. For me .005 inches would be too loose and when I had a chance I'd go back in and reset the exhausts to .003. There is no real advantage to running too loose and it can increase wear over the long haul. Short term won't hurt. I just did my check, 4000 miles since previous, intakes had loosened a bit, exhausts were unchanged. I set intakes at .002 inch and exhausts at .003.

That's strange that they loosened with wear. They usually tighten as the seats wear and the valve comes up slightly toward the rocker. Generally why I set mine a tad on the loose side.
I'll have to see what my second setting tells me here in a couple weeks.

[fjmartin]

In prep for the CSC Baja ride in a few weeks I did all my bike maintenance that will be needed for the mileage that will occur and that included checking/adjusting the valves. I've done the valves many times and have a couple of observations beyond the great tutorials that are given in this and other threads. First, on my bike the intake valves stopped moving with in the first 1500 miles. I check them every time I do valves but haven't had to adjust them sense. I'm now at 4200 miles. The exhaust valves have continued to move but I think they are close to being done. On this latest adjustment one of them was still at .08 and the other was somewhere between .05 and .07 and only took a minor adjustment. I think I'll soon be able to switch to adjusting them every 5K like CSC says. Since it's been the exhaust valves that continued to move, I would know it was time to adjust them as the bike would start dying when riding it, even when warm, when I'd release the throttle quickly. Anytime that would start, I would check the exhaust valves and they'd be at .04. Hope this helps some of the newer owners with what they might expect with their bikes over time.

[willy dog]

well after my fifth valve adj. one exhaust valve was tight only have 4000 miles on the zong has only been on one long ride most of the time it makes trips between fishing holes checked them at 500/1000/1500 2500 and found intakes too be a little loose. and exh.were fine Was stalling at idle and wile downshifting found one tight exhaust runs great again it lives at 7500 to 8000 rpms guess i just don't ride it hard enough really love my limited blue they stopped making them just to fast

[jogirob]

Just did mine at about 600 miles. I wish I had read this thread first. I read at least twice through the CSC tutorials online and it seemed like a great walk through but didn't realize the shortcomings till I actually had the bike in pieces. I went to a different site to figure out how to remove the gas tank, figure out which direction to crank to find TDC, and other small stuff and about half of the instructions were wrong.

By the way, am I the only one with a runny gas tank? Instead of just catching residual fuel from the fuel lines my entire gas tank ended up emptying out while I was toiling away on the valves. :doh:

[fjmartin]

Rather than fully removing the tank I simply lift the front end of it and put a 2x4 on end that is about a foot long there which gets the tank out of the way and I don't have to disconnect any wiring or hoses and no fuel spillage.

[willy dog]

gas will come out of the bigger vent fitting you just have to put it on the other side but i like the idea of not disconnecting tank i have not yet got filter back to were it was first time on side note drove the zong 1tenth of a mile to buddy's garage to adj. valves it was by no means hot took everything off to get it ready checked valves three hours later all good next day found one tight best let it sit overnight IMHO

[SpudRider]

Rather than fully removing the tank I simply lift the front end of it and put a 2x4 on end that is about a foot long there which gets the tank out of the way and I don't have to disconnect any wiring or hoses and no fuel spillage.

I would like to try your method, but I don't understand the placement of the 2x4 lumber. :hmm: The next time you check the valve lash, would you please take a photograph and post it here? :)

[NoVa Rider]

Last time I checked my valves I didn't move the tank at all. Just took off the side plastic body pieces. There is enough room to remove the intake valve cover and check valve clearance with tank still in place. Admittedly if you need to adjust an intake valve, a bit more clearance would be nice, although not necessary. Sounds like fjmartin's suggestion to use a scrap of wood to prop the front of the tank up would do the trick. For first timers, probably best to remove the tank to see more clearly what you are doing.

[fjmartin]

Spud, my plan is to do the valves either tomorrow or next week so I'll post an actual picture of what i'm doing with it but here is a crappy hand drawing of what it sorta looks like. I am NOT an artist :-)

[SpudRider]

Thank you, Joe.

I imagined you were raising the rear of the fuel tank, so I am eager to see where you place the wooden block to support the front of the fuel tank. :)

[fjmartin]

Here are the pic's of how I tilt the tank to make valve adjustments easier. The 2x4 is 11" long. I place it under the forward tank bracket and the steerer tube. It holds nice and steady.

[fjmartin]

Oh, and it had been about 3000 miles since I did my last valve check/adjust and the intakes were again exactly where they've been since about mile 2000 but the exhaust valves were just a little bit tight. They are now adjusted. I'm at just a bit under 7200 miles now on the bike. Take care!

[SpudRider]

Thanks for posting the photos, Joe. :tup:

[TripwirePig]

Why is it that when I set all four valves to 0.06mm and I crank he engine a couple of times then I go back to TDC. I check my clearance and like clock work, the exhaust valves are so tight that I can't fit a 0.06mm filler gauge. Then I check intake valves and its way over 0.08mm.

This is very frustrating.

Here's how I did it and see if anyone can find a flaw in the way I did it. (This is my second time and I didn't have this problem the first time!!)

1. Set TDC.
2. Set all four valves to 0.06mm.
3. Turn the engine two times and re-check.
4. I get same results as above!!!!!

WTF!!!

[TripwirePig]

Is there a different TDC for each valve (intake vs. exhaust?)

[SpudRider]

Is there a different TDC for each valve (intake vs. exhaust?)

Yes, you must set the valve lash at TDC on the compression stroke. ;)

Here is a foolproof method for finding TDC on the compression stroke.

Remove the two inspection ports at the top of the engine, and rotate the crankshaft in the counter-clockwise direction. Look for the "L" mark on the cam sprocket. After you see the "L" mark, carefully rotate the crankshaft until the "L" mark is aligned with the left inspection port, and the "R" mark is aligned with the right inspection port. When the cam sprocket is in this position, you are always aligned with TDC on the compression stroke. :tup:

You don't even need to open the inspection port on the flywheel. ;) Using this method, you will never make a mistake by adjusting the valves on the exhaust stroke, instead of the compression stroke. :yay:

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zong%20Engine%20Rebuild%2051687%20Miles/Camshaft%20Timing_zpskghfuotu.jpg

[TripwirePig]

Where exactly are the two inspection ports located?10035

[TripwirePig]

How come the valves are not loaded. They freely go up and down when I line up the TDC using the inspection ports?

Is this how it's supposed to be ? The valves freely go up and down?

[SpudRider]

Yes, you must have space between the rocker arms and the valve tappets when the crankshaft is at TDC on the compression stroke. All is well. :tup: Set the proper valve lash, and you have completed the job. ;)

[TripwirePig]

So after three tries I couldn't get the valve clearance right.
Thanks to SPUD, it made all sense to me--I was doing it wrong on my first valve clearance check.

It took me 4 tries and two days to get it right the second time.
Thanks Again SPUD!!

At least now I know how to tear down my bike for th next valve check.

She's up and running!!

[SpudRider]

Good for you! Your next valve adjustment will go much faster. :tup:

[vttrailboss]

After adjusting my valves, my stalling went away (300 miles and no stall), and the bike seems to be running better. I'm pretty sure the clearance was below .03mm for intake and exhaust. I set to .08. Surprisingly they're prettyl quiet... I figured they would be loud and tappy.

BTW, I didn't have to remove my tank. I could simply turn it sideways. Access the the valves was a PIA, but got it done.

[rdp5008]

Set my valves to .08 today. Kinda loud and tappy but seems okay.

When I was all finished and she was put back together I found an extra intake valve cover sitting on the work bench. I wonder where that came from? Derp.

Thankfully I was confident enough not to start the damn thing until she was all put together. No harm just wasted time.

[pyoungbl]

Set my valves to .08 today. Kinda loud and tappy but seems okay.

When I was all finished and she was put back together I found an extra intake valve cover sitting on the work bench. I wonder where that came from? Derp.

Thankfully I was confident enough not to start the damn thing until she was all put together. No harm just wasted time.

Was that .08mm or .008"...big difference! Also, I cannot understand how you would have an 'extra' intake valve cover. There are only two, one intake, one exhaust. Maybe I'm just missing something in translation...not the first time for me.

[rdp5008]

.08mm. I used my .06, .08 and .10 mm feelers to check the tolerance. .06 in easy. .08 in tight. .10 not in at all.

I was being sarcastic. Not very obvious, sorry. I forgot to put the intake valve cover on. No harm done. I noticed before I started the engine. Just a silly mistake that wasted a bit of time this morning. I just had to remove the seat and gas tank to get to the intake valve cover. Luckily I put the exhaust valve cover on before putting her back together. That one is a bear to get to.

[willy dog]

[QUOTE=rdp5008;261046]Set my valves to .08 today. Kinda loud and tappy but seems okay.

When I was all finished and she was put back together I found an extra intake valve cover sitting on the work bench. I wonder where that came from? Derp.

first time was careful to mark intake and exhaust but still managed to install one cover upside down did not notice till saw puddle of oil under the mighty ZONG :doh:

[vttrailboss]

I did the same thing... lol. Luckily it was the intake. 5 minutes later, and I was back in business.

[mckayprod]

Did my third (?) valve adjustment yesterday at 10k miles and I have to say this isn't getting any easier! Even without the forgotten screws, botched oil change, upside-down valve cover and other stuff that had to be redone it still takes two or three hours for me to do this. I hope I don't just need more practice, because it's no fun at all. Do longer feeler gauges help?

[2LZ]

Did my third (?) valve adjustment yesterday at 10k miles and I have to say this isn't getting any easier! Even without the forgotten screws, botched oil change, upside-down valve cover and other stuff that had to be redone it still takes two or three hours for me to do this. I hope I don't just need more practice, because it's no fun at all. Do longer feeler gauges help?

I feel your pain. Especially now that I'm half blind and not near as nimble with the fingers as I once was. I'm ok and can tear through it but it's still not fun and the exhaust valves still suck. If you get a line on a custom feeler gauge for getting at them better, please post.

[jbfla]

Did my third (?) valve adjustment yesterday at 10k miles and I have to say this isn't getting any easier! Even without the forgotten screws, botched oil change, upside-down valve cover and other stuff that had to be redone it still takes two or three hours for me to do this. I hope I don't just need more practice, because it's no fun at all. Do longer feeler gauges help?

I've done 11 valve check/adjustments.

It doesn't get any easier for me, other than I have all the steps memorized.

Still takes about 2 hours. Since I have other bike I can ride, I occasionally let the RX3 sit unused until I can get motivated to do a valve check.

As for the feeler gauge, I use 2. One is an angled single feeler gauge. I think CSC sells one.

The other is a long single feeler. If you are using a gauge in a bundle, it helps to separate the one you are using from the rest.

http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/FEELER-GAUGE-p/wps57-80526.htm

The shipping will probably cost more than the gauge.

Maybe you can find it from another vendor.

I had mine on hand, since it is the one I use on the DR 650......which btw, only requires 7,500 mile valve check.

jb

[mckayprod]

Good to know I'm not the only one who thinks this is a chore. I'm too stubborn to quit now, so I'll get better at it or die trying! I've seen feelers from Motion Pro at the local shop, longer and pre-bent. Maybe they'll help getting around the frame in front of the exhaust valves. Redesign the radiator mounts?

[willy dog]

the single pre bent one makes a difference that and practice

[2LZ]

It's not just that the exhausts are hard to access, it's also that the size gauge is so dang thin and flimsy. It bends and tweeks around trying to find the slot. I found it easier last time just to loosen the adjusters way up, put the blade in between, then adjust them down checking for drag. If the gap was twice as fat, it would probably make accessing them far easier.

[rtking]

I found it easier last time just to loosen the adjusters way up, put the blade in between, then adjust them down checking for drag.

Agreed!

I am seriously thinking of buying another feeler gauge set (they're certainly cheap enough) so that I can have a feeler gauge under each tappet as I perform the adjustment. That would make things much quicker as then I can balance the adjustment across both valves.

[jbfla]

It's not just that the exhausts are hard to access, it's also that the size gauge is so dang thin and flimsy. It bends and tweeks around trying to find the slot. I found it easier last time just to loosen the adjusters way up, put the blade in between, then adjust them down checking for drag. If the gap was twice as fat, it would probably make accessing them far easier.

If you loosen the adjusting screws before measuring the gap, you won't know if the clearances are getting wider or closing up.

IMO, that would be a good thing to know.

jb

[RC]

Does anyone hear their valves sounding tappier after adjusting? I just did my recent one and had to finish up in a bit of a hurry and I swear it sounds more tappy than before. Is that normal or am I just paranoid? I actually think I set the closer to .06 than .08, but it fired up and seems to idle smoothly. And yes I'm quite confident my valve covers are on.

Or maybe my ears are just playing tricks on me, because I was pretty sure that the bike got quieter after my recent oil change.

[2LZ]

Does anyone hear their valves sounding tappier after adjusting? I just did my recent one and had to finish up in a bit of a hurry and I swear it sounds more tappy than before. Is that normal or am I just paranoid? I actually think I set the closer to .06 than .08, but it fired up and seems to idle smoothly. And yes I'm quite confident my valve covers are on.

Or maybe my ears are just playing tricks on me, because I was pretty sure that the bike got quieter after my recent oil change.

LOL! I know EXACTLY what you're talking about! I set Mrs. 2LZ RX3 and they sound "as expected" but on my RX3, I swear they make more noise, especially when cold. They sound basically normal when it's hot....but still rattlier than Mrs 2LZ. As we all are, I was totally anal in making sure the gaps on both RX3 were .08.

I think it's my paranoia after hearing some of the mishaps here with setting the valves too tight. I'm still thinking that I may recheck mine again....,out of paranoia. ;-)

[RC]

Yes its a little quieter when warmed up, but still it has that thumper sound to it. I don't notice any reduction in power, so I guess its all good, although I have been rather gentile on the RPMs. Strangely though, I've had a bunch of stalls since the latest adjust. And my tail/brake light went out. Gonna check out the fuses tomorrow.

[fjmartin]

I've got 13269.1 miles on the bike and it has been 4500 miles since the last time I checked and adjusted the valves. As I had previously stated, the intake valves haven't moved since around mile 1500 but this is the first time that my exhaust valves were still spot on. NICE! I guess they do finally settle in! I'll keep checking every 5000 miles now and see what happens.

Joe

[pyoungbl]

Joe, this is good news to me. I talked to another RX3 owner recently and he was talking about the intake valves receding into the head. It looks like this is something for each of us to monitor. A little record keeping is in order. I have been creeping up on longer valve check intervals so my next one will be interesting...about 2500 miles. The bike runs so well that I hate to tempt fate.

[Color of the day]

I just hit the 500 mile mark finally. I just got clearance from my Doc to ride and was able to put some miles on it.

I am going to perform the valve adjustment. Looks like fun. I'll keep you guys posted as i have never done this before.

[fjmartin]

Take it easy the first time, remove the plastics and you can tilt up the tank rather than removing it. I suggest cleaning the bike before so no dirt drops into the open covers. Also before removing the spark plug make sure to use compressed air or something to make sure no small rocks are in that whole the plug goes in....they could fall into the cylinder when you pull the plug. Make sure to follow the tutorial on aligning the timing marks. Don't overtighten the valve covers when you put them back on. Use locktite when you put the plastics back on. Use anti-sieze on the port hole covers and don't overtighten them. Undoing the two bolts on the right side radiator will allow you to push them forward to make room to get your hands in for the exhaust valves. Random thoughts done!!!

[Inroads]

I recently purchased my 2nd RX3 and the PO had said he adjusted the valves on the tight side of the spec.
Bike takes 2 or 3 stabs at the starter and then will die off the idle until warmed up and then it seems to run ok.

I'm going to check them even though the bike has just 1200 miles and it sounds
To me as if he set them up on the too loose side possibly.

[rjmorel]

I'm thinking he set them up to tight because of the hard starting and dying issue . Do you hear the "tappy valves are happy valves "noise? tick , tick ,tick. rj

[Inroads]

^^^ So if valve clearances increase when motor gets hot I'm thinking PO adjusted them too tight.

Which makes sense that it runs better after warmed up. Thanks for your help.

I need to get some happy slappy valves.

[fjmartin]

It's a fact:

[Inroads]

So it turns out that my cold starting and cold idle issues were the result of too

Slappy happy....checked the valves today and they were all in the .005" range

So I closed them up to .003" and my bike is all happy now....must be careful to not go too

Slappy happy.

On adjustment notes have the go-no go gage technique working with the .003" and .004"

Is the way to go.

Also the only way to easily check the exhaust for me is to take the right radiator completely out of the way....so much easier....

[jbfla]

..........

Also the only way to easily check the exhaust for me is to take the right radiator completely out of the way....so much easier....

That's strange. For some unknown reason, I move the left radiator to check the exhaust valves.....

:hmm:

jb

[Color of the day]

I just hit the 500 mile mark finally. I just got clearance from my Doc to ride and was able to put some miles on it.

I am going to perform the valve adjustment. Looks like fun. I'll keep you guys posted as i have never done this before.

Here is what I have done so far. It was pretty easy. I have to pick up some locktite, antiseize, and a 10mm allen wrench before I open any of the covers that allow things inside the motor. Of all the things I don't have a freakin allen wrench. There is not much room to work.

Kudos to Mr. fjmartin for the 2x4 idea. That is pretty slick..
10801

[fjmartin]

Glad that worked for ya!

[pyoungbl]

Color, when you put everything back together make sure your gas tank is centered laterally. This is a big deal. I use a flashlight to look under the tank and insure that the tank mount was equally distant from each end of the pad it hooks onto. If you do not have the tank centered it becomes a real chore to get all the body panels back on and lined up with their various mounting spots. The worst is those two 6mm screws that hook the radiator to the plastic side pieces. Oh, and watch out for those 6mm screws because the metal is pretty soft and all too easy to round out the hole.

Peter Y.

[Color of the day]

Thanks. I picked up my allen wrenches today. Will finish tomorrow. I'll post the results.

[fjmartin]

Don't forget to locktite all the bolts except the valve cover ones. I put anti-sieze on those. I also put it on the threads for the view ports and the spark plug.

First time I did mine I called Gerry to make sure of a few things while I was doing it.

Joe

[Color of the day]

Thanks. Just got off the phone with Gerry. I had them set too loose. I just set the first one again and the .08 feeler pinched as I pulled out on the first exhaust valve.

I may take the radiators off to get in their and have more room. I have big hands.

[Color of the day]

Okay. I have adjusted the valves and spun the motor more than two times. My .08mm feeler pinches between the valves. My next biggest feeler is a .15mm ( I don't have a .10mm) will NOT go under the valves.

I assume that I am good and ready to button up the bike..

Also - The nuts that are on the valves; I got those as tight as I could with two different wrenches. They are tight and I assume that's good.

Thanks in advance.

[pyoungbl]

Color, if you are really a gorilla you can actually strip those lock nuts. Don't go overboard. Second item, most spark plug manufacturers say do not use anti sieze on the plugs. The logic is that you are trying to get enough tension on the threads so they do not back out. When you put new plugs in you are compressing a gasket. Whatever torque setting they list is from dry threads. You are actually better off to bring the plug snug against the gasket and then turn it a designated number of degrees (the mfg will give you this) which puts the right amount of tension on the threads. After that, if you use the same plug, you still bring it up snug and then tension a set number of degrees...I recall using 1/8 turn. Remember that a torque setting is really an indirect way of measuring how much tension is on a fastener. If you are using a slippery lube the torque setting will be much too high for the job.

Yes, I have been called anal.

Peter Y.

[Color of the day]

I finished the valve adjustment. I had a good talk with Gerry and a great with Mr. fjmartin. I put the bike back together and noticed a hose hanging down behind my center stand almost dragging the ground. Not leaking any fuel and not sure where it goes.

I don't remember that being there before. See the picture. Thanks for any help.10815

[Color of the day]

Crisis averted. I was informed that hose is an overflow hose. I just don't remember it being that long.

[rjmorel]

Crisis averted. I was informed that hose is an overflow hose. I just don't remember it being that long.

Yah , its so when we over fill the tank, the gas goes down the hose to the ground rather down our crotches. Quite handy actually :yay: rj