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Louis Angel
07-06-2015, 11:44 PM
Well, I got plum sick and tired of remodeling this darn house, so I took a night off from house restoration and decided I was in desperate need of
some " wrench therapy" :-D

As in my sig. , I still own a 2014 Genuine Scooter Company (subsidiary of Vespa as I understand it)
I gave it to my wife when I bought the Will200 Dual Sport, but she has put, now hold on, 1 ONE mile on it since February. So I ride it from time to time to keep the fuel swapped out and battery charged.
I had ordered all those "stage 2" performance goodies back many months ago, http://www.scooterworks.com/performance-kit--stage-2---genuine-buddy-50--roughhouse-products-8802.php?page_id=268#.VZtIf-9RGP8 and since I am so crunched for space in the new house, one GOOD way to get that big 'ol box out of the way is to PUT THEM ON!!!!! lmao!!!!!

Soooooooo, I laid in the floor and went to work.
Hard to tell in the pictures, but the 70cc sure is a LOT bigger piston than the 49cc !!!!
Tonight I got the old engine apart and new piston, jug, and head installed. Fought with that stupid teeny tiny wrist pin retaining snapring for nearly 20 min!!! UHHHGGGG! Anywhooooo, tomorrow I will remove and rejet the carb, install the exhaust, and tear down the CVT and hopefully by Thursday --weather permitting-- I can ride it to work again. Rode it today and remembered why I love the little scooters so much.
LOVE my big Yamaha V-Star cruiser, but the little scooters just work so darn well zipping around town! In bone stock form I have no problems keeping up with the in town traffic going to work. There is one, and only one section of the drive in to work that gives me trouble. A very very long 40 MPH 4 to 5% uphill section on the way in. 45ish MPH at the bottom, by the time I get to the top I am going MAYBE 30 MPH with umpteen cars behind me pissed off at the little scooter dork! :lmao:

I HOPE this will fix that problem!!! For my closed-course competition of course. I would Neeeeeeevvvvvver put it on the road. :p
:-D

Weldangrind
07-07-2015, 01:21 AM
Awesome! Did it jump to a 47mm piston? I ask that, because the horizontal dirt bike / atv motors use a 47mm piston in the 70cc engine.

Louis Angel
07-07-2015, 02:20 PM
Hey Weld, it is a 47mm bore. I am not sure if true displacement is 70cc, or 72cc, since the same kit is listed on the scooterworks website in 2 places, yet under 2 part#s ( 1st part # being part od the "stage 2 kit", 2nd part# being just the piston & jug kit alone )
Here is a link to the actual piston kit used in the S2 kit: http://www.scooterworks.com/prima-cylinder-kit--10mm-pin--72cc---minarelli-50-horizontal-products-8850.php#.VZwXvGfbKpo

Also I changed the bottom picture in my original post showing the "right now" scooter as it sat this morning.

Weldangrind
07-07-2015, 04:27 PM
Are you installing the original exhaust? What was the diameter of the original piston? Do you know the stroke?

Louis Angel
07-07-2015, 09:03 PM
Are you installing the original exhaust? What was the diameter of the original piston? Do you know the stroke?

As seen below, I installed the Prima pipe that came in the Stg2 kit.
I left off the rear fender & brackets on purpose.
The Prima pipe has a really great sound to it. Not too loud at all, but can definitely tell it has been modded well beyond stock. Some of this may be coming from the larger displacement as well.

Original bore & stroke an all 50cc PGO / Genuine 2 stroke engines
is 40mm x 39.2mm

************************************************** ********

Got the scoot back together today. Instantly noticeable power boost.
Still slower from everywhere from 0-Top end than a Honda PCX150.
That part really did surprise me because the RoughHouse is so much lighter, AND is a 2 stroke. :-/ Oh well.
I am not satisfied with the roller weight & contra spring set up.
It was faster 0-20 in bone stock form!!!
BUT, 21MPH & beyond it did better. A LOT better on the top end!
However, there is this, , , , , , , , lag, , , for the lack of a better term, from 35 to 45 MPH. It is like this:
0-20 "come on! Come ON!"
21-35 MPH " Oh WOW! Holly Crap! "
36-45 MPH "Where the CRAP did my power just go!!!!????!!!!!"
45 to whatever the heck I was doing (see pic below) "Oh wow, it is still speeding up! Weeeeeeeee!!!!!!!!!!!!! I am a scooter dork!!!! " LMAO!
Sorry guys, if you willingly CHOSE to ride a scooter, you are a DORK!
And I am a dork right there with you grinning all the way!

Hell, not like anyone really cares what you ride. Seriously. Who can you say truly CARES that you ride a scooter? No one.
Had a guy in a 6.2L (gas) F150 tell me at the gas pump he was getting 13MPG. I said I am getting 98. He then replied "Yeah, but only dorks or dudes with too many DUI's ride scooters!" I then showed him pictures of my V-Star, my S-Class Mercedes, my wifes Volvo, and just grinned and said "Yes sir, my name is Louis, and I am a scooter dork" :lmao:
The MOST I squeezed in was $1.72, as I fired the little 50 (at the time) up and drove away, his pump was at $71 & change and still going! 0_0
* shakes head *

In the pic below of the speedometer, at the tip of my finger is where the needle stopped at tonight on my break in run. Not sure how fast it was, or how far off the speedometer is, but on 10" wobbly wheels, it was damn fast!
I ordered a Trail Tec Vapor speedo & tach, shipped UPS Next Day Air, and will try to install it tomorrow so I can get accurate RPM and TRUE speed readings. In bone stock but de-restricted form, it would just barely touch the 50MPH mark. So I will know, and report, how fast it was actually going at that mark (stock speed) and what the new true top out speed is.
Now, I am not saying that whatever speed it is, that it is all it can do.
I strongly feel with more tweaking and --maybe-- going even larger on the main jet, more speed could be found. I went from a 75 stock to a 95 that was provided in the kit. Time will tell.

In picture 2, I have the CVT cover was left off, and will remain off, during the next few weeks (or months) till I get tired of swapping stuff around on the CVT and feel that whatever combination I end up with is ideal. One would THINK what was provided in the Stage2 kit would be perfect.
Mmmmmmmmm. Maybe if you lived in flat Kansas maybe. lol

Picture 3 is of the Prima exhaust and deleted rear fender. I also removed the rear luggage rack since it is just adding weight and is never used.

OH!!!! And I almost forgot, I ordered a 3-In-One rear LED tail/stop/turn light assembly to go on the rear to further streamline the tail end. I have 3 different windscreens I can put on it, just got to play around and see what looks the best.

Ya know, I am kinda enjoying this. :)

Adjuster
07-07-2015, 09:25 PM
Very cool. Does it have the GY6 style engine?


/

Louis Angel
07-08-2015, 12:35 AM
Very cool. Does it have the GY6 style engine?

/

Nope. Nothing alike at all.

The GY6 is a 4-stroke.

The RoughHouse50 uses the 50cc 2-stroke PGO engine.
Transmission parts are much alike though.

And thanks. :))

Weldangrind
07-08-2015, 11:43 AM
Hey Weld, it is a 47mm bore. I am not sure if true displacement is 70cc, or 72cc

Your new displacement is 68cc, vs. 49cc with the old setup.

Weldangrind
07-08-2015, 11:48 AM
Awesome read! I'm definitely a scooter dork, but only from afar right now. I'm currently working on a similar two-stroke for a friend, but there's no big-bore kit in its future.

Is the carb the CV type? Do you think there's a reed valve from Boyesen that might fit?

Louis Angel
07-08-2015, 02:56 PM
.............Is the carb the CV type? Do you think there's a reed valve from Boyesen that might fit?

Not a clue. Oh either question. Sorry, I am still in the learning
phase on these Genuine scooters.

Louis Angel
07-08-2015, 03:06 PM
Your new displacement is 68cc, vs. 49cc with the old setup.

Advertisements are sometimes (often) misleading and iffy.
Math never lies!
Thanks for the computation!

Weldangrind
07-09-2015, 12:54 AM
Not a clue. Oh either question. Sorry, I am still in the learning
phase on these Genuine scooters.

A CV carb has a hat on top with four screws, and there is a vacuum actuated diaphragm underneath. If you don't have a CV, then you likely have a round slide carb, with a 1:1 pull as you twist the throttle.

If you can figure out the closest big name engine to your two-stroke, you might be able to find a Boyesen reed valve that would bolt in. I recommend that you research them.
http://www.boyesen.com/

Weldangrind
07-09-2015, 12:57 AM
Advertisements are sometimes (often) misleading and iffy.
Math never lies!
Thanks for the computation!

Even the major manufacturers round up; it's very common and acceptable. It's only the rare company (like Ducati) that will post actual displacements, like 821, 848 or 899. You gotta admit, it doesn't exactly roll off the tongue.

Louis Angel
07-09-2015, 07:30 PM
I understand. The Honda CB300F I had was actually 286cc.
However, the Ninja 300 is right on at 299cc. :-/

In other news, I made a YouTube vid on accelerating up a 2 to 3 % uphill from a stop after the current mods. And just an fyi, I don't always run it this hard. The posted peed limit for the vast majority of the trip to work & back is 35 mph
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ovm7jHogwq0
I ordered yet another $120ish worth of stuff from scooter works this morning.

NCY golden variator pulley (half) http://www.scooterworks.com/ncy-pulley--golden---qmb139-products-1327.php?page_id=268#.VZ8ATO9RGP8

Dr. Pulley 6.0g slider weights (currently running 8.0G NCY rollers)
http://www.scooterworks.com/dr--pulley-sliding-weights--16x13---genuine-buddy-50--rh50-products-1370.php?page_id=268#.VZ8AzO9RGP8

NCY 1500 RPM clutch springs
http://www.scooterworks.com/ncy-clutch-spring--qmb139-products-1329.php?page_id=268#.VZ8CRe9RGP8

NCY lightweight clutch bell
http://www.scooterworks.com/ncy-clutch-bell--qmb139-products-1331.php?page_id=268#.VZ8Cb-9RGP8

and a NCY secondary slider
http://www.scooterworks.com/ncy-secondary-slider--qmb139-products-1334.php?page_id=268#.VZ8Csu9RGP8

The NCY 1500 RPM contra spring is already installed.
The reason for all that junk is to boost the off the line acceleration.
As you can tell in the video, the initial launch from 0 to 10 MPH is VERY laggy. I read in a couple of places today that it is highly possible because of the new exhaust pipe. Too "peaky", ie. tuned entirely for top end RPM performance. But kills off the line efficiency. --- shrugs --- I guess I can always install the factory exhaust back on and see what it does. But I want to install all those above listed parts first. Take some readings, then install factory exhaust and run the same course and see what the difference is.

Louis Angel
07-09-2015, 08:10 PM
Hey y'all. I have an honest question.
The variator outer half looks like a lawnmower flywheel with those
cooling fan fins.
I have been running around for 2 days with my CVT cover off while
tuning & testing till I get the CVT tuned to how I want it.
Is there any danger, equipment wise, by running the scooter with the CVT cover off? ( I see obvious safety concerns, but this is only a temporary thing.)
Also, I see Kevlar belts listed for sale for $56. Are they better (performance wise) than a stock belt? I am not talking longer belt life, I am talking better speed & acceleration.

Variator pulley thingy with fins I am talking about:

Weldangrind
07-10-2015, 01:06 AM
I would think that an exposed variator would only run cooler. If you have a round slide carb, you might be able to move the clip on the needle. Perhaps even with a CV slide. That might help improve the mid-range stumble.

Louis Angel
07-10-2015, 05:52 PM
this is the carb that is on mine, WITHOUT the adjustable oil mix screw.

http://www.scooterworks.com/genuine-roughhouse-stock-carburetor-w-adjustable-mix-products-12471.php?page_id=133#.VaA7FGfbKpo

I been adding just a wee bit (about 2 oz. / gal. ) of 2 stroke oil directly into my fuel tank since changing over to the 68cc big(er) bore motor. Still not blowing blue smoke (a good thing) but puffing just a bit off idle (still a good thing) Extra oil, I am guessing, is a good thing up to the point it starts to noticeably smoke. I don't know what the factory correct mix ratio is, but in 275 miles, I have yet to refill the factory oil tank and there is still 1/4 to 1/3 a tank of oil in the oil tank. Seems to me that both my old Honda Express50 and my Yamaha Razz used about 1 tank of oil to every 2 tanks of gas, IIRC. I am quite certain EPA has something to do with that. Our old Husqvarna 268 saw ran 32:1, the new 460 Rancher says run 50:1mix. Why? EPA. That's why. So I borrowed the mechanics carb adjusting tool ( special dealer only funky looking splined shaft nut-driver ) and tuned the 576 to run on the old 32:1 mix. Smokes a bit when cold, but once warmed up it is a cutting little fool! With no adverse effects on spark plug life that I can tell. ----sorry, I know that went wayyyyyyy off topic there -----

Louis Angel
07-10-2015, 06:06 PM
Just some facts I learned about who Genuine Scooter Company is.
Remember when I said I though they had something to do with Vespa?

PGO if your curious: (that explains the PGO head stamp on the motor! :-D )
clicky thingy--------> https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PGO_Scooters

Weldangrind
07-11-2015, 12:21 PM
You've confirmed that your carb is a round slide, which makes things super easy. Just unscrew the top cap, withdraw the slide and spring assembly, and move the clip one notch on the needle. Go for a ride and evaluate.

Louis Angel
07-11-2015, 10:17 PM
You've confirmed that your carb is a round slide, which makes things super easy. Just unscrew the top cap, withdraw the slide and spring assembly, and move the clip one notch on the needle. Go for a ride and evaluate.

:thanks:

Awesome! Thanks! Ummmmm, move clip? Right. Move it up or down?

Weldangrind
07-12-2015, 12:45 PM
Yes.

:D

Not sure. Try a move, then evaluate. Better or worse?

Louis Angel
07-15-2015, 02:23 PM
........... Just unscrew the top cap, withdraw the slide and spring assembly, and move the clip one notch on the needle.........


I took some pictures. I can not see any way whatsoever for adjustment's
of any kind on this throttle cap / "butterfly" assembly.
I am seriously thinking I need to increase the size of the idle speed jet from #42 (stock) to, I don't know, maybe 48 ish. I have ordered a new stock idle speed jet ( so I have a backup) and when it comes in I will start playing around with opening up the idle speed jet holes.

ALSO OF NOTE: Last night after installing all the latest CVT goodies ordered, I seen ZERO gain in anything. None. Nada.
To re-explain the problem, from a dead stop at idle like sitting at one of the umpteen hundred traffic lights we have here in Paris, when the light turns green and I roll on the throttle, the scoot CREAPS forward at like 2 to 5 mph, spitting & sputtering the whole solid 4 to 5 seconds, before taking off like a rocket. SOOOOOOOOOOO embarrassing! I am saying if you can picture this: Green light, 3ish MPH until dang near through the intersection! One thousand one, one thousand two, one thousand three, one thousand four, one thousand five, GO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
SO, I put the original factory exhaust back on, and whatever that EPA canister thingy that LOOKS like it has something to do with EGR system of some sort, yet dumps into the CVT case. ( ! :hmm: ! )
After putting the factory exhaust back on, I now have 100% power off the line back -- YAY!!! -- but now top out at 41MPH on the flats and 36MPH going up this blasted hill I hate so much going to work. GRRRRRRRR!!!!!!

There HAS to be something I am missing here.
Maybe the idle jet will remedy the issue. If not, I will be selling the Genuine (after putting the 50cc factory motor back in) and putting everything in the trans back to bone stock and selling the RH50.
After sold, I will get a 150cc GY6 , , , , , , , , something'ta'nother.
And then put those transmission parts in it! :)

Adjuster
07-15-2015, 02:33 PM
In your 3rd picture that is the slide and needle. Remove the needle from the slide. Some of them (needles) have a 3 position adjustment. Some of them have no adjustment. If yours is adjustable there will be a little c clip that you remove and then you can change the position of the needle and lock it back in with the c clip.


/

Adjuster
07-15-2015, 02:34 PM
This guy is good, I have watched all of his videos. This explains the needle postion and how to adjust.

https://youtu.be/KXxxJrA5hNY



/

Louis Angel
07-15-2015, 04:34 PM
Thanks Adjuster! I will watch everything I can tonight when I get home.
I fount this on the internet today. Not just a whole lot more money than
what I have spent on the PARTS upgrades alone on the Genuine! :wtf:

Looks really cool!
http://countyimports.com/inc/sdetail/2015-ssr-motorsports-x6-150cc-/34589/36829

http://www.ssrmotorsports.com/store/scooter/x6_150.html

Weldangrind
07-16-2015, 12:37 AM
I'm really hopeful that the needle has grooves that allow you to move the clip. If it does, move the clip down a notch and see what happens.

That said, a GY6 150 scoot with goodies would be cool.

Louis Angel
07-16-2015, 12:37 PM
No groves. Un moveable without breaking apart & super gluing back together. :-/
NEW problem. As I was pulling up the drive and into the garage, I noticed 2 cycle oil on my floorboard. Upon looking down the driveway after parking the scoot, I see drops of oil like a little trail of tears going from my garage to, I am assuming, all the way back to work. I walked the "trail of oil" for about 200 yards and drips were consistent with where I slowed down. Sooooooooooo, I now have oil tank or lines or oil pump issues.
YAY! :ohno:

Louis Angel
07-16-2015, 11:35 PM
Several things to report.
1) Oil leak fixed. Was a cracked tank. (See pics below)
After 30+ min. of removing plastic bits where I could get TO
the tank, it was a simple repair. Somehow, some way during
this repair I bent over with the 14v. Dewalt drill and managed to
throw my back out. :ohno:
2) While waiting for epoxy to dry, I piddled around with the carb some
more. I removed the jet stack, removed the main jet, found an
unknown size drill bit in the bottom of my big toolbox that I could
tell was just a weeeeee bit bigger than the holes in the idle jet, so
I drilled the 4 holes out to the larger size. Stuck the 102 main jet in
and gave the 95 a home in the growing collection box. LOL
VOLA!!!!! After I got all the bits back together (Also put the performance
exhaust back on!) I went for a ride.
NO oil leaks! No where near as much lag off the line. Still has about a 2 second stumble / stutter, but is not as hard of a lag/stutter and I can live with it like that. BUT, not going to. :-D I am convinced I have taken a step in the right direction, and if I can go just a bit bigger yet again in the idle jet and back the main off to a 98, I will have the mixture pegged!
After a 30 min. ride the plug was very black, most of the ride was at WOT.
So I know the 102 jet is just a bit too much.
Also of note, on a long'ish 2-3% Down hill stretch, I reached 57 MPH. :)
And was pushing 11,000 RPM! 0_0
On the flats I could hold 52, and on the way back UP that same hill was at 48.6 at the top of the hill. This is all on 6.0g Dr Pulley sliders.
I can live with that. :-)
I see often times people in various forums list a "cruise speed".
I am assuming that is a speed at witch one can maintain with only 3/4 throttle instead of wide open throttle. If that is the case, my cruise speed
would be 42 to 44 MPH @ just a sniff over 9000 RPM.

Adjuster
07-17-2015, 12:12 AM
Good job man.


/

Weldangrind
07-17-2015, 01:04 AM
You're on the right track with jetting.

Try this: get yourself up to a desired speed on level grade, and then quickly release the throttle and only open it slightly. You might be able to maintain the cruising speed without being at WOT.

Louis Angel
07-19-2015, 07:47 PM
Ok, continuing on with my custom GY6 Roushhouse,
Since I try not to work much on Sunday, I did not get just a whole lot done. No matter though. New engine is not supposed to arrive till
1st of August. Then the fab work, and who knows what all else.
In the meantime, I must find the parts if available, or build my own set of drag bars. I was unsure of what the Roughhouse handlebar was going to look like under all that plastic. I was hoping it was a 2 piece unit, where I could just simply swap out the 7/8" bars for the drag bars for a Honda Rebel. NOPE! The bar and it's mount are all welded together in a 1 pc.
" Y " of sorts. That simply will not do. So an hour and umpteen blasted screws and wires later, I got the whole front cowling, dash and front fender off.
I went ahead and removed the seat, all the plastic body bits, tail light / signals and fuel tank. Unplugged all connections. only 2 bolts left to remove and the whole engine & trans is out. I have to keep it to where I can roll it around for the most part, so I left the engine in for now.
While waiting for the GY6 150cc to arrive, I am going to put the original parts back in including the 49cc piston & jug and al OEM transmission parts. I plan on reselling the PGO engine on e-bay, along with anything else I do not pan to reuse.

Here is pics from today:
Nothing exciting, just a documented tear down.

Louis Angel
07-20-2015, 09:18 AM
I found this ling to a heavily customized Genuine Rattler 110. ( 110cc 2-stroker) It is the Roughouse big brother.
This bikes overall stance is a LOT like what I am going for.
Not a big fan of his color choices, and that is 100% A-OK. :-D
Bit I give him a perfect 10 for application and overall looks.

Clicky thingy ---> http://www.modernbuddy.com/forum/topic20096.html

Adjuster
07-20-2015, 09:50 AM
Wow those customs are amazing.



/

Weldangrind
07-20-2015, 11:45 AM
I'm geeking out over this thread!

Louis Angel
07-23-2015, 04:34 PM
Also there will be a color change from original plans. There are just so many black & reds rolling around, I am still going with the "Stealth Black"
body. Front struts, rims, engine case, and underbelly of the scooters new color will be , , , , , announced latter. :-D

Also have decided to keep the factory handlebar. For now. Eventually
it will be changed out for a different style. Eventually.

More to come. ;)

Louis Angel
07-23-2015, 09:45 PM
as of today, removed tires, front forks, engine & transmission assembly, and rear half of factory wire harness. New engine came in today early, so tomorrow I will start painting it and it's bits. Can't do much this weekend. Wife is pushing me HARD to finish stripping the wallpaper in her kitchen. :ohno:
. Body panels painted, all going smoothly SO FAR and ahead of schedule. For a change. But not counting my chickens before they hatch just yet. Still have to paint the frame and put it all back together!

Weldangrind
07-25-2015, 01:23 AM
Caution: stripping wallpaper often leads to divorce.

cheesy
07-25-2015, 05:52 AM
Caution: stripping wallpaper often leads to divorce.

That should be wallpaper in general.

Louis Angel
07-25-2015, 09:31 PM
Caution: stripping wallpaper often leads to divorce.

Well, , , , , , , , since you mentioned it. :ohno:

jk. but, it is not all that bad. just highly time consuming.
I put on some Christian Rap music ( yeah, I am weird like that) and just start scrapping away. If I keep my mind on the task at hand, and not on how bad I want to be out on the open road on my V-star at that moment, it is not too bad. ;)

Louis Angel
07-25-2015, 09:56 PM
So now that all painting is complete, and I am -- mostly-- satisfied with the results, here is some picks. Will look awesome once all is put back together. Still waiting on chopper style mirrors and new hand grips to come in. I cut the springs down 10 coils in the front fork tubes. Hoping for a 2" drop. Dumb me, I have no clue what the factory stance front height was, so no way to know if it is a true 2" drop.
On top of everything else, I had to order new rims. Was not planning on doing that right now. WAS going to go to a "fatty tire" in the rear, latter on when more money comes in. So I got the cheapest thing I could.
A set of 13" 3-spoke aluminum rims from one amazon seller, and a set of (forgot the brand but had excellent reviews) 130/60/13 tires from another amazon seller.
Reason is the factory Genuine Roughhouse50 (applies to the Buddy as well) rear 10" rim uses 110mm drum brake. The Long case GY6 uses a 130mm drum brake. Not sure what size the brakes are on a short case GY6 150, but I would be willing to bet they are 110mm.
If someone could verify that, it would be an important thing to know in reguards to one of the differences between a long and short case GY6.

For future reference!!!! -----> If anyone in any post anywhere asks about doing a GY6 swap, for the love of God, tell them to just buy a COMPLETE cheapest complete 150cc scooter!!!!!!!
Better yet, order one with rear disc brakes! It cost $350 to buy the parts to convert from drum to rear disc!!! :wtf:

Even with the $250 shipping fees for a 150cc scooter, all the little bits & rims / tires / wire harnesses / exhaust system and on and on and on that is required for a GY6 swap makes buying a $259 engine (plus $69 S&H) NOT a bargain after all!!!!!

OK, so, picture time! :D

Weldangrind
07-26-2015, 12:15 PM
That's a bold colour choice; I like it.

You have a really cool shop, from what I can see. It looks like you get up to all kinds of no good in there.

How do the existing handlebars mount? May we see a pic? I have an idea that might work.

Louis Angel
07-26-2015, 02:38 PM
The center post is simply a tube with a slot about 3/4" deep cut on
both sides at the top. The handlebars themselves literally just clamp on.
My initial plan was to use a "drag bar" style handlebar.
but have since decided what I would really like to do, and would look
better / more in line with the overall design of the build, is to install
sport bike style handle bars. . . . . . . . . . . . somehow. I have a
9" lathe, a mig welder, a AC/DC stick welder, and a drill press, along with several different bench grinders and side grinders. What I do not have, yet, is a tube bender. :-/
I too have many ideas running around in my head. But am ALWAYS open minded and quick to listen to any other ideas & advice! Life just seems to
go much smoother that way! :)

Pic 1 is from the Buddy parts book, but is the same handlebar set up. Oh their website they are calling those "drag bars" as well. I just noticed that. --- shrugs --- Whatever it is, I am going to build my own version of them.
Pic 2 is the style I am going for when I get to building it

Weldangrind
07-27-2015, 11:41 AM
I didn't realize that the bars clamp over the steering tube; I thought they would be inserted in it.

Therefore, I like your idea of building clip-ons over a faux triple; that's a cool look, and it's adjustable.

Here's my tubing roller: http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=tubing+roller

You can find good deals on clip-ons on eBay, and use those for raw material for your project.

katoranger
07-27-2015, 06:59 PM
The Zong parts bike has clip-ons. Send me a PM if you want them for your project. You would just need to make that center clamp portion then.

Louis Angel
07-27-2015, 11:44 PM
The Zong parts bike has clip-ons. Send me a PM if you want them for your project. You would just need to make that center clamp portion then.

WOW! Thanks for the offer man!
For now, for the moment, let me see what I can build, but
may hit you up in a day or two on those. :-D

Louis Angel
07-27-2015, 11:46 PM
How do you like that bender Weld? I see one in the store and was unsure
about it. I looked at one the day I bought my mini air compressor.
Also picked up a cheap 1/2" drive impact wrench and man that thing is STOUT to be so cheap!
I am kinda a harbor freight junky! lol

Weldangrind
07-28-2015, 10:52 AM
Me too! They have a 7" polisher on sale for $29.99 that I might grab tomorrow.

I've only used the bender a couple of times so far, but it worked well for me. I once found a video of a similar bender in use, and that sold me on it. Plus, they're stupid money where I live, so crossing the border for HF made sense.

I even bought the extra mandrels for it, so I can bend square tube.

katoranger
07-28-2015, 04:04 PM
WOW! Thanks for the offer man!
For now, for the moment, let me see what I can build, but
may hit you up in a day or two on those. :-D


Just let me know. I am not going to use them. I have a rolling chassis in my shed.

Louis Angel
07-31-2015, 09:35 PM
I have been focusing my attention on the kitchen remodel, so not spen much time working on the scoot. But I am getting there (see next post)
;)

the green & white dining room in the background is what I finished up last month, the wood cabinets used to be white and I refinished them, and the red paint that you can (barely) see is the new paint. Had to peel 3 layers of old a$$ wallpaper off to get to the 'rock just to paint! lol

Down to touch up spackling spots and this final wall.

Louis Angel
07-31-2015, 09:40 PM
So here is where the scoot is at as of 07/31/2015.
I added captions to the pics so they are for the most part self explanatory.
Only REALLLLY bad snag I am running into is the 3-bolt pattern on the brake disc vs. the new wheel.
Factory brake disc is 3 on 2.5". New 13" wheel is 3 on 2.75"
So just get a new rotor, no biggy right? Noooooooo!!!!!!
The factory brake rotor is 6-1/4" OD. ALL brake rotors I can find online ( from over a 3 hour search) that do have the 2.75" 3-bolt pattern all are much larger OD. :-/ Dang.
anywhoo, pics:


.

Adjuster
07-31-2015, 09:44 PM
You have two very nice projects going on.


/

Weldangrind
08-01-2015, 12:43 PM
It looks like there was a "see-through" between the kitchen and the dining room. Did you panel over it recently? I'm guessing so, since 7/15 is painted on it.

How do you set the engine back? Does that mess with shock geometry?

Are you going to drill the rotors to suit?

Louis Angel
08-01-2015, 01:14 PM
It looks like there was a "see-through" between the kitchen and the dining room. Did you panel over it recently? I'm guessing so, since 7/15 is painted on it.

How do you set the engine back? Does that mess with shock geometry?

Are you going to drill the rotors to suit?

** Yep, the kitchen had that "80's styling" going on! LOL Had the white wagon wheel spindles in where that hole was. Was in perfect condition, but just very dated! So I tore all that out.

** The engine is set back by way of fabricating an entire new engine to frame mount. Now, if you own a Honda Ruckus, you can just buy this
part already made. If you want to spend $395 + S&H for it that is. :crazy:
So I am building my own. As to the shock, the factory shock will have to be changed I am certain. No clue yet how much longer it will have to be.
May even have to move the upper shock mount back a bit to keep tings lined up right.

** Unsure about the rotors. Kind of leaning that way, but need to make sure if I drill the rotors out a bit that there will not be clearance issues with the brake caliper where the bolt heads pass through. That is still yet to be determined. What I do know is, for the moment, I will be running the factory 10" wheel in the front until I can get back to that issue latter on. Unless a Eureka moment happens.

Weldangrind
08-01-2015, 01:19 PM
It looks like the innermost drilled holes in the rotor don't have scuff marks, indicating that the caliper doesn't extend that far. If that's the case, perhaps you'll have enough room to elongate the holes. You might need to clearance the body of the caliper a tad.

Can you get another rotor just like the one you have? That gives you a spare to play with.

jct842
08-01-2015, 06:48 PM
Or....If you have the where with how to redrill the correct spacing in the three unused spokes on the disk. A good divider would work on the lay out.

If it were mine thats what I would do. Once you got the layout all it would be is center punch and drill. A good drafting divider that locks is all you need.

Weldangrind
08-02-2015, 12:55 PM
Excellent idea!

Louis Angel
08-09-2015, 01:16 PM
IF ANYONE WAS CURIOUS ABOUT SIZE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN
A 2-STROKE MINARELLI ENGINE vs. A 4-STROKE " GY6 " LONG CASE ENGINE, HERE ARE A COUPLE OF COMPARISON PHOTOS
FOR FUTURE REFERNCE.
NOTE, THE MINARELLI 2-STROKE IS ALMOST THE SAME SIZE AS
A 50CC 4-STROKE QMB139 ENGINE.

.
.

Weldangrind
08-10-2015, 10:46 PM
The mounting points don't look much different at all.

Louis Angel
08-12-2015, 09:07 PM
The mounting points don't look much different at all.

That is what I thought, till the engine came in and I went to install the engine.
Very different in how they line up. :-/

Louis Angel
08-12-2015, 09:17 PM
Dad blamit! Axle shaft is wayyyyyyyyyyyy too long!

Now I got to find a shorter axle. Grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr.



.

Weldangrind
08-13-2015, 01:38 PM
So, you'll need a GY6-specific axle?

Louis Angel
08-14-2015, 10:41 PM
I would guess so. Not real sure. It is a GY6 engine anyways, so I would think so. Unless someone knows if other axles will work.

jct842
08-14-2015, 11:57 PM
I would call "scrappy dog parts" in vegas and explain what you have to them. they do have a web site too. http://www.scrappydogscooters.com/ They are very knowledgeable in the 50 and 150 chinese scooters

Louis Angel
10-01-2015, 12:14 PM
Just a silly you tube vid i made late last night on the current
state of my project. Made it for my brother in law and another close friend to see, but figured i would link it here as well just for the heck of
it.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=c7bV5L0onBU

bogieboy
10-01-2015, 12:20 PM
im sorry but i had to laugh... you have the voice of a big bad biker guy and youre talking about a little 50/150cc scooter... cracked me up...LOL:lmao::lmao:

Louis Angel
10-01-2015, 07:18 PM
im sorry but i had to laugh... you have the voice of a big bad biker guy and youre talking about a little 50/150cc scooter... cracked me up...LOL:lmao::lmao:

:-D

:lmao:

Weldangrind
10-02-2015, 01:14 AM
I enjoyed that video; thanks for sharing it. As I've shared, I'm a fellow scooter dork.

culcune
10-05-2015, 10:10 PM
I, too, enjoyed the video...yesterday, I became the proud owner of a 2004 TGB Express (the pizza delivery scooter) in 150cc form. Will probably replace the TMEC 200 endure. More info to follow, and not to hijack, but now absorbing all the scooter 'stuff' I can.