How to install your 13T sprocket

[detours]

I installed my 13T countershaft sprocket today, replacing the stock 14T sprocket. This is a great way to widen the powerband of the engine and make your gearing more usable, especially on hills. It also gives you a usable 6th gear.

The swap was very easy, even though I had never done it before.

Tools Needed

8mm socket - countershaft sprocket cover bolts
13mm socket - outside axle locknut
13mm open ended wrench - inside axle locknut
18mm socket - left side axle bolt
19mm socket - right side axle nut
30mm socket - countershaft sprocket nut
Large flat blade screwdriver - countershaft sprocket safety washer

[detours]

First, lift the rear tire using a paddock stand or centerstand. This paddock stand from Harbor Freight was cheap and works great.

You can do the whole job on the side stand if you want, but this will give you a little more room, while keeping the bike very stable.

[detours]

Remove the countershaft sprocket cover on the left side of the bike by removing two 8mm bolts.

[detours]

The countershaft sprocket is secured by a 30mm nut. The nut has a safety washer bent over one edge.

Using a large flat-bladed screwdriver, bend the safety washer until it is nearly flat. You can use a socket extension or other blunt tool to flatten it, but be careful not to damage the washer. You need to reuse it to install your new sprocket.

[detours]

Make sure the bike is in gear. If in neutral, you will just turn the wheel.

Using a 30mm socket wrench with a short extension, remove the countershaft sprocket retaining nut.

Then remove the safety washer.

[detours]

Gently pull the sprocket and chain off the countershaft spindle. It should slide easy away from the engine.

Once it's off the spindle, hold the chain above the sprocket to create slack and gently work the sprocket out of the chain. There should be room to remove it without removing the chain guard or moving the rear wheel.

[detours]

Here is a shot of both sprockets for comparison. The 13T is smaller, which will put slack in your chain.

You can see a raised flange on each socket. This flange MUST face the engine to give the chain room on the other side.

Holding the top of the chain above the countershaft spindle, face the flange of the sprocket toward the engine. Then thread the teeth of the 13T sprocket into the chain.

Slide the sprocket onto the spindle. In order to line up the splines, you have have to rotate it a little.

[detours]

Replace the safety washer by aligning the metal piece into the sprocket hole.

Finger tighten the 30mm nut. Then tighten it firmly with your socket wrench until a flat edge lines up with the bent part of the washer.

Use a large flathead screwdriver to bend the side of the washer over the flat of the nut.

Now replace the countershaft sprocket cover and snug the 8mm bolts.

IMPORTANT: Recheck the countershaft sprocket nut and safety washer after your next ride. The nut is expected to loosen a bit, but the safety washer should remain firmly in place.

[detours]

Congratulations, you just installed a sprocket!

But you're not done yet! The smaller sprocket put too much slack in the chain and you need to tighten it up.

Take the bike off the paddock stand (or centerstand). It should be resting on the side stand when testing chain tension.

With an 18mm socket wrench, loosen the axle bolt. You may need to brace the axle nut on the other side with a 19mm wrench. The axle MUST be loose enough to slide backwards on the swingarm or you will strip the threads of the tension adjustment bolts.

[detours]

Loosen the inside 13mm locknut on both swingarms with an open ended wrench. Do this on both left and right swingarms to prevent the axle from binding during the next step.

Tighten the outside locknut with a socket wrench. As you tighten the nut, watch the chain get tighter and tighter.

Test the chain slack by pushing the chain up in the middle of the chain. The distance between the top of the chain and the bottom of the swingarm should be between 10mm and 25mm. The chain should not touch the swingarm.

Continue adjusting the outside locknut (in or out) until your chain is within spec. If it gets too tight, you may have to back out the outer locknut and then use the inner locknut to loosen the chain.

[detours]

With the chain tension adjusted, you now have to align the axle. CSC recommends measuring the distance from the swingarm bolt to each side of the axle bolt (http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/Articles.asp?ID=257).

If you don't have a metric ruler in millimeters or a yardstick to 1/16 inch, you can also use the axle alignment marks on the swingarm as described below. This is less exact but close enough.

The axle goes through a small bar on the left and right swingarm. On the swingarm below it, you can see a set of alignment marks. By comparing the position on the left and the right side, you can make sure the axle is straight across.


On the right side of the bike, tighten the outside locknut until the alignment is the same as the left side.
Re-check your chain tension. Readjust the left side if necessary and then readjust the right side to match.
When the chain tension is adjusted and both sides match, tighten the inside locknut.
Make sure all locknuts are tight and then re-check the chain tension and alignment marks. They should all match. If not, loosen and readjust.
Lastly, tighten the axle nut and bolt on both sides.

[SpudRider]

Thanks for posting the nice tutorial and excellent photos. :)

It is safe to bend each tab of the safety washer twice. However, if you bend either tab a third time, you risk losing the 30mm nut which holds the sprocket to the counter shaft (C/S). :ohno: Therefore, I don't recommend using the same safety washer more than 4 times. ;)

[detours]

Thanks! Let me know if you have any corrections or recommendations and I'll gladly update the instructions.

This might be a good page to link from the Maintenance sticky.

[SpudRider]

Indeed, it is important to verify the rear axle is the same distance from the swingarm bolt on each side of the motorcycle. Otherwise, the rear wheel will be canted. The canted wheel will accelerate wear of both sprockets, the drive chain, and the rear tire. In addition, the canted wheel will rob power from the engine. ;)

After removing the plastic cap covering the swingarm bolt, I use a tape measure to determine the distance from the center of the swingarm bolt to the center of the axle on each side of the motorcycle. If the two distances are not the same, I tighten/loosen the axle adjusting nuts until the two measurements match. The rear axle is now parallel to the swingarm bolt, and the rear wheel is not canted. :)

After aligning the rear axle with the swingarm bolt, I once again check the slack in the drive chain. If the slack needs to be adjusted, I tighten/loosen each axle adjusting nut the same amount on both sides of the wheel. Since the nuts are hexagons, I measure the adjustments in 1/6 turns of the nut. ;) For example, I might tighten each nut 2/6 turns, then check the drive train slack. I continue this process until I achieve the proper drive chain slack.

If you turn each axle adjusting nut the same amount every time you adjust the slack in the drive chain, you will maintain the proper, parallel orientation of the rear axle and the swingarm bolt. :)

[SpudRider]

Since you should only use the safety washer four times before replacement, it is wise to keep a small supply of spare safety washers. These washers only cost $0.88 apiece. I need to remember to order some of these safety washers the next time I get parts from CSC. ;) The CSC part number for these safety washers is Z20-113.

The Suzuki DRZ400S/DRZ400E motorcycles also use a counter shaft with very similar, or identical dimensions. These bikes also use a 30mm nut to secure the C/S sprocket to the counter shaft. ;) Therefore, if you are in a pinch, you can also use the Suzuki safety washer designed for these motorcycles. The safety washer has Suzuki part #09167-22012.

The Suzuki safety washer is held in place by the splines of the counter shaft.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g406/coolpizzadude/Picture110_zpsd4cc0fdc.jpg

After placing the 30mm nut over the washer, bend part of the washer over one side of the nut with a pair of pliers.

http://i1100.photobucket.com/albums/g406/coolpizzadude/Picture109_zps861abbde.jpg

[3banger]

Anyone round up a torque value for counter shaft nut?

[detours]

I couldn't find a torque value. But it didn't take much force to remove and I reinstalled with at least as much tension.

[SpudRider]

The torque quoted by CSC is very large. The torque quoted for the very similar, virtually identical, Suzuki sprocket is also large. The Suzuki torque is quoted as large as 100 foot-pounds.

However, as you have seen, after you ride the bike a few miles, the nut gets very loose, and is only retained by the safety washer. That is why it is so important not to bend the tabs on the safety washer more than twice. ;)

I merely tighten the sprocket nut as hard as I can with a normal socket wrench. I don't use either a breaker bar, or a torque wrench, since the nut is going to loosen anyway. ;) Then I make sure I attach the locking washer securely. No matter how hard you tighten the nut, it is going to loosen to a hand tight fitment. Therefore, the locking washer is crucial for keeping the nut on the sprocket. ;)

[SpudRider]

Detours,

Thanks for posting this fine tutorial, and taking the time to document your work with such excellent photographs. I have added this thread to the RX3 Tech Sticky, under the Maintenance subheading. :tup:

The RX3 Tech Sticky is permanently pinned to the top of this forum.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14228

[Jay In Milpitas]

Detours & Spud, thank you both for elaborating the procedure for those new to wrenching.

Am I seeing a 15 tooth in your pic, Spud? That's what I want to try for my freeway flyer commuter to bring the 6th gear revs down. Is that a Suz part or aftermarket part for the DRZ?

Also, good point to measure from swing arm pivot to axle center, as the marks for the adjustors may not be accurate. Once I've determined their accuracy, I know if I can rely on them for adjustment on the road.

If you are able to torque the sprocket nut to 100 ft/lbs, it should not loosen up for a very long time, if ever. Best way I've found to achieve that is to hold the rear brake on while taking the nut to final torque value. A click type wrench is best for that, since trying to read a beam scale while bent over the seat & holding the brake on is an advanced Yoga skill.

Happy wrenching, Jay.

[SpudRider]

Detours & Spud, thank you both for elaborating the procedure for those new to wrenching.

Am I seeing a 15 tooth in your pic, Spud? That's what I want to try for my freeway flyer commuter to bring the 6th gear revs down. Is that a Suz part or aftermarket part for the DRZ?

Also, good point to measure from swing arm pivot to axle center, as the marks for the adjustors may not be accurate. Once I've determined their accuracy, I know if I can rely on them for adjustment on the road.

If you are able to torque the sprocket nut to 100 ft/lbs, it should not loosen up for a very long time, if ever. Best way I've found to achieve that is to hold the rear brake on while taking the nut to final torque value. A click type wrench is best for that, since trying to read a beam scale while bent over the seat & holding the brake on is an advanced Yoga skill.

Happy wrenching, Jay.

The photograph isn't mine; I 'borrowed' it from Thumpertalk, Jay. ;) The sprocket in the second photo is a Primary Drive, 15T C/S sprocket sold by Rocky Mountain ATV/MC.

The Suzuki C/S sprocket is very close to the Zongshen sprocket, but I would not recommend using the Suzuki sprocket. ;) Close is good for horseshoes and hand grenades. However, close isn't good enough for C/S sprockets. :hehe:

Here are the dimensions for the Suzuki C/S sprocket.

http://www.jtsprockets.com/fileadmin/code/images/large/jtf432.jpg

In contrast, I have measured the Zongshen sprocket and recorded the following values.

Minimum spline diameter: 19 mm
Maximum spline diameter: 22 mm
Thickness: 11 mm

Using the Suzuki C/S sprocket might strip the counter shaft splines. :ohno: Proper C/S sprockets for the RX3 are readily available from CSC for reasonable prices. Therefore, I think it is unwise to risk damage to the bike's countershaft by using the Suzuki sprockets. ;) However, the Suzuki safety washer might work well enough, if you are ever caught shorthanded. :)

[Jay In Milpitas]

Thanks for the clarification and dimensions, Spud.

Agreed that close enough isn't good.

[SpudRider]

Jay,

If you want a lower sprocket ratio, you do have several choices. I was told CSC is going to sell rear sprockets in the range 42T-46T. Therefore, you could purchase a smaller, 42T sprocket from CSC to lower the sprocket ratio.

Also, the JTR473 sprocket is available in 40T, and it should be a perfect fit for the rear hub of the RX3. :)

http://www.jtsprockets.com/fileadmin/code/images/large/jtr473.jpg

You can buy this rear sprocket from Amazon for $21.37, with free shipping. ;)

http://www.amazon.com/JT-Sprockets-JTR473-40-Steel-Sprocket/dp/B005DL7JLO

[dpl096]

detours : Excellent write up! I'm curious if you are still running the stock chain or have updated to something else?

[detours]

At 2800 miles I'm still running the stock chain.

I have a 45T rear sprocket on backorder and I would like to install a new X-ring chain at the same time, but I'm not sure what length to get. The stock chain will fit a 45T, but if a longer, 112 link chain will fit, I should get that, so I can switch to a 46T if I want.

[dpl096]

At 2800 miles I'm still running the stock chain.

I have a 45T rear sprocket on backorder and I would like to install a new X-ring chain at the same time, but I'm not sure what length to get. The stock chain will fit a 45T, but if a longer, 112 link chain will fit, I should get that, so I can switch to a 46T if I want.

So you are going to run the 14T front and the 45T rear ? What are the advantages? I know you felt the 14T spread out the usable power more efficiently.

[SpudRider]

At 2800 miles I'm still running the stock chain.

I have a 45T rear sprocket on backorder and I would like to install a new X-ring chain at the same time, but I'm not sure what length to get. The stock chain will fit a 45T, but if a longer, 112 link chain will fit, I should get that, so I can switch to a 46T if I want.

I suggest you get a 112-link drive chain. I barely managed to fit the stock, 110-link drive chain over the 13T/46T sprocket combination. I'm sure the 112-link drive chain will fit the 13T/45T sprockets. :) Also, you can always remove two links if you wish to switch back to a 13T/44T sprocket combination, et cetera. ;)

[SpudRider]

So you are going to run the 14T front and the 45T rear ? What are the advantages? I know you felt the 14T spread out the usable power more efficiently.

I'm sure he is going to keep the 13T C/S sprocket. ;)

I'm running a 13T/46T sprocket combination, and I like it a lot. I have more torque for low speed riding, and accelerating away from stop lights. Low speed riding is easier, and I can sustain higher speeds while ascending inclines with the lower gearing. However, I live at 4,400 feet above sea level, and everywhere I ride the elevation is higher yet. ;)

[detours]

I'm going to keep the 13T and try the 45T first, then get the 46T if I still need lower gearing.

Sounds like the 112 link x-ring is the one to get. Thanks :tup:

[SpudRider]

You're welcome. :)

I have the RK 520EXW drive chain installed on my Honda XR650L, Honda CRF250X, and Zongshen RX3. I really like this drive chain. :tup:

https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p/3970/24278/RK-520EXW-XW-RING-Chain

https://images.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/r/rk_09_520_exw_x-rin_cha.jpg

[Co2]

Nice topic :tup:

Rx3 stock front gear is 14? wouv , fit problems? 13t my stock and i fear never accept 14 very tight tolarance front place.. (13 /40 supermoto generally for road , 13 / 51 cross/enduro=first 2 gear careful ;))

[SpudRider]

Nice topic :tup:

Rx3 stock front gear is 14? wouv , fit problems? 13t my stock and i fear never accept 14 very tight tolarance front place.. (13 /40 supermoto generally for road , 13 / 51 cross/enduro=first 2 gear careful ;))

The RX3 motorcycles come from the factory with a 14T sprocket on the counter shaft. Since you have an identical, NC250 (ZS177MM) engine, I'm sure you can fit a 14T sprocket on your motorcycle. ;)

[keithmaine]

Great post

[dpl096]

I'm going to keep the 13T and try the 45T first, then get the 46T if I still need lower gearing.

Sounds like the 112 link x-ring is the one to get. Thanks :tup:

Thanx detours!

[Lee R]

Great writeup!

I got around to installing my 13T today. Much better gearing for me on road with only a small drop in top end speed. I called CSC for the sprocket nut torque and they said 65-75 ft lbs. I torqued it to that with blue locktight (also recommended by CSC) then bent the tabs and witness marked it for easy inspection.
I'm thinking 45T rear as well for the next chain replacement.

[SpudRider]

Great writeup!

I got around to installing my 13T today. Much better gearing for me on road with only a small drop in top end speed. I called CSC for the sprocket nut torque and they said 65-75 ft lbs. I torqued it to that with blue locktight (also recommended by CSC) then bent the tabs and witness marked it for easy inspection.
I'm thinking 45T rear as well for the next chain replacement.

Good for you, Lee. :)

I suggest you only bend one tab; it is sufficient to hold the sprocket nut. You can safely bend each tab twice, allowing you to use the same safety washer four times. :) However, don't bend the tabs more than twice, or you will risk losing your sprocket nut. ;)

[Lee R]

Good for you, Lee. :)

I suggest you only bend one tab; it is sufficient to hold the sprocket nut. You can safely bend each tab twice, allowing you to use the same safety washer four times. :) However, don't bend the tabs more than twice, or you will risk losing your sprocket nut. ;)


Good tip Spud. I'll likely order a replacement tab for the next change as I beat this one up pretty good with the screw driver and mallot bending it flat. Mine came with both tabs very well bent over the nut and it wasn't going anywhere from the factory.

I love the screw adjusters on this bike. My last chain drive bike (Tiger 1050) was a very finicky process to get chain slack just right. And if it wasn't just right that bike shifted horribly.

[dpl096]

I'm going to keep the 13T and try the 45T first, then get the 46T if I still need lower gearing.

Sounds like the 112 link x-ring is the one to get. Thanks :tup:

Where did you order your 45T from?

[SpudRider]

Where did you order your 45T from?

I modified a sprocket carrier, and I ordered a 46T JTR811 sprocket. I can also get the 45T JT811 sprocket.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15125&highlight=sprocket+carrier+modification

However, I just checked the CSC parts website, and I noticed the 42T, 43T, 45T and 46T rear sprockets are listed for sale. :)

http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/SPROCK...AINS-s/186.htm

[2LZ]

Excellent post! I'm seriously thinking of getting one of there for Mrs 2LZ. She's a very experienced rider but since moving to Volcano, she finds her Victory Kingpin more of a handful in the tight twisties and canyons around our area and some of the "fun factor" has vanished.

So dropping to a 13T C/S sprocket doesn't effect the top speed that much? She would also use this bike for commuting on an open, 2 lane highway (65mph limit) on "casual Fridays".
What do you think going 13/45 would do to top speed?

[Weldangrind]

My last chain drive bike (Tiger 1050) was a very finicky process to get chain slack just right. And if it wasn't just right that bike shifted horribly.

I haven't had that experience, but I'm going to pay closer attention in the future. Thanks for that thought.

[Danimal]

I modified a sprocket carrier, and I ordered a 46T JTR811 sprocket. I can also get the 45T JT811 sprocket.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15125&highlight=sprocket+carrier+modification

However, I just checked the CSC parts website, and I noticed the 42T, 43T, 45T and 46T rear sprockets are listed for sale. :)

http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/SPROCK...AINS-s/186.htm

Spud,

Wouldn't it be easier to just remove some material from the sprocket to make it fit, rather than removing material from the carrier?

I really want to go to a 14/46 combo. Am not enamored by running a small 13T front. Going small up front promotes rapid chain wear. Better to go big in back.

[SpudRider]

Excellent post! I'm seriously thinking of getting one of there for Mrs 2LZ. She's a very experienced rider but since moving to Volcano, she finds her Victory Kingpin more of a handful in the tight twisties and canyons around our area and some of the "fun factor" has vanished.

So dropping to a 13T C/S sprocket doesn't effect the top speed that much? She would also use this bike for commuting on an open, 2 lane highway (65mph limit) on "casual Fridays".
What do you think going 13/45 would do to top speed?

I think you wife would like the RX3; it's a lot of fun to ride.

With the 13T C/S sprocket, you will lose a little top speed riding on level terrain. However, if you ride at higher elevations, the 13T C/S sprocket actually allows you to maintain a higher average speed. The better torque allows you to maintain speed without down shifting.

The stock rear sprocket is 44T. If you get an RX3, I suggest your try a 13T/44T sprocket combination first. The 45T and 46T sprockets help a lot if you are doing more technical riding at higher elevations. ;)

[SpudRider]

Spud,

Wouldn't it be easier to just remove some material from the sprocket to make it fit, rather than removing material from the carrier?

I really want to go to a 14/46 combo. Am not enamored by running a small 13T front. Going small up front promotes rapid chain wear. Better to go big in back.

If you are a machinist, and you have tooling to cut hardened steel, it might be easier. However, it was far easier for me to trim a little aluminum from the hub once, rather than to cut hardened steel every time. ;)

CSC is now stocking the 42T, 43T, 44T (stock), 45T, and 46T rear sprockets. Therefore, you don't need to modify either the sprocket carrier, or the sprockets, if you buy your sprockets from CSC. :)

[willy dog]

i have found that 3rd gear works well on the dirt roads around here, but it seems that it is geared a little high have to down shift on the hills we have lots of them 2nd seems to low. should i change to 13t on front and leave back alone bike will never see the freeway would like to keep stock chain bear in mind i am new to all this a 3 day safety course and 400 miles is what i have for riding time but i bet i have biggest grin you all are very helpful :thanks:

[rjmorel]

I think for the riding you do Willydog, the 13t would be a big improvement. I tried it and still rode down the interstate all day long at the 65mph speed limit. MPG went south to middle 50's. But the 13t really made a difference when going on gravel fire roads and up hills. I switched back to 14T when knowing I'll be on the highway lots. rj

[willy dog]

thank you found answer on early posts think i will start out with 13ft and 44 r see how that works thanks again

[SpudRider]

As usual, Rob gave you good advice. ;) I think you will enjoy the 13T/44T sprocket combination. :)

[RedHawk47]

One thing missing from the chain adjustment instructions:
Put the transmission in neutral while adjusting the chain. If you don't do this you may have some slack in the upper run which would mess up your true chain tension.

[rjmorel]

Good advice Redhawk47, never even thought about that little detail, rj

[Weldangrind]

One thing missing from the chain adjustment instructions:
Put the transmission in neutral while adjusting the chain. If you don't do this you may have some slack in the upper run which would mess up your true chain tension.

Good thinking! :tup:

[Gaijin]

Tools Needed

8mm socket - countershaft sprocket cover bolts
13mm socket - outside axle locknut
13mm open ended wrench - inside axle locknut
18mm socket - left side axle bolt
19mm socket - right side axle nut
30mm socket - countershaft sprocket nut
Large flat blade screwdriver - countershaft sprocket safety washer


This is a fantastic tutorial, thanks for taking the time to write it up!


One thing I have to point out -- this was apparently written for earlier models; on my 2018 the countershaft sprocket nut requires a 32mm socket.

[dannybiker]

Has anyone raised the gearing? There's lots of talk about lower gearing for off road riding and I totally get this, but I'm not sure if I can stand the high revs all the time on the road for ever.

Keeping up with the traffic sees my bike living around 7500 and this is tiring and noisy. I can redline the bike in top on any flattish road and so wondered if it was feasible to replace the rear sprocket with something smaller thereby raising the gearing and making the whole thing a bit less frantic.

I'd appreciate your thoughts :thanks:

[Gaijin]

Well, you can certainly do exactly that. CSC sells rear sprockets in a variety of sizes, from 42 to 46 teeth. Dropping to 42 teeth should lower your RPMs by almost 5% at any given speed.

[calvarez]

The lower gearing is for road riding. I almost never go off road. The bike is much more rideable on the highway with the 13t sprocket. The choice is between holding high RPM or losing speed all the time because the motor can't pull the gearing.

[rjmorel]

So I geared mine up when I rode the Iron Butt 1000 I did a few years back. Totally worthless on the roads I rode because to many hills and wind. Oregon, Idaho. I was always downshifting into 4th or 5th to get over hills or get out of traffics way. I think I went down 2 teeth on the rear sprocket.
On level ground it may be OK . Stock 6th gear is almost overdrive and I found the stock RX3 geared about as high as I would want to go IN MY NECK OF THE WOODS. YMMV

If someone needs a rear sprocket to gear it up and give it a try...……..hows $5 plus shipping? I think it's a 42T but would need to dig it out and confirm. rj

[ddilink]

I looked everywhere to find the proper chain tension. Not in the owner's manual. Finally found it here. Thanks.