Valve clearances

[Danimal]

Is everyone seeing the same thing upon their first valve inspection, that the gaps are too wide?

I haven't done mine yet, but have seen multiple reports that the gaps are too wide, even after 1000 miles. (supposed to be .06, measured at .1 or something to that effect)

Too wide is better than too tight.

Do we think Zongshen is trying to compromise, assuming that many owners won't check or adjust their valves often enough?...and maybe leaving them wide in order to allow more leeway?

Lee's recent post about poor mpg started me thinking. I'm just through my first tank of gas, and after this coming weekend will no doubt be around 500 miles or so.

Lee did also post about top speed, and his was right in line with others, indicating the motor is running well?

Just trying to understand.

[Adjuster]

I am guessing its simply because of a new engine that needs to be broken in. Get some miles on the engine and then the valve gap will settle down. Right now you set the proper gap but the engine has a lot of 'give' per say making the gap quickly and dramatically change. After the engine is broken in the proper gap will hold.


/

[Danimal]

I am guessing its simply because of a new engine that needs to be broken in. Get some miles on the engine and then the valve gap will settle down. Right now you set the proper gap but the engine has a lot of 'give' per say making the gap quickly and dramatically change. After the engine is broken in the proper gap will hold.


/

If that is the case, then WHY adjust to "correct" clearances as early as 500 miles if the motor is not fully broken in yet?

Who here has checked their valves at 1000 miles and still found them loose?

[Adjuster]

You should always check and adjust your valves to proper setting. Just expect the first few times to have some wiggle room.


/

[SpudRider]

Is everyone seeing the same thing upon their first valve inspection, that the gaps are too wide?...

No, my valves were tight. Several others also reported tight valves. ;)

The only way to know is to check the valve lash yourself. I do suggest you follow CSC recommendations, and check the valve lash at 500 miles. ;)

[Lee R]

Is everyone seeing the same thing upon their first valve inspection, that the gaps are too wide?

I haven't done mine yet, but have seen multiple reports that the gaps are too wide, even after 1000 miles. (supposed to be .06, measured at .1 or something to that effect)

Too wide is better than too tight.

Do we think Zongshen is trying to compromise, assuming that many owners won't check or adjust their valves often enough?...and maybe leaving them wide in order to allow more leeway?

Lee's recent post about poor mpg started me thinking. I'm just through my first tank of gas, and after this coming weekend will no doubt be around 500 miles or so.

Lee did also post about top speed, and his was right in line with others, indicating the motor is running well?

Just trying to understand.

Danimal,

I'll know this weekend as I just hit 500 miles and am doing the first round of maintenance. I don't think anything is wrong with my bike, it's more a Yeti with a heavy right hand that's causing the MPG issues. I'll be adjusting a friends who bought at the same time as well. I rode his bike and it's no different than mine.

My Guzzi also uses screw adjusters and they were tight the first couple of checks even with me setting them to the loose end of the spec. I'm expecting the RX3 to be as well.

I'm also purposely going slower to see if I hit 65-70mpg. If that's the case then I know it's me and won't worry about it after that. I've been riding a lot of trails also which is probably part of it. Loose sand hill climbs probably aren't good for mpg:doh: I've got to say this RX3 is the best dirt bike of the adventure bikes!


http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/kalimarus/DSCF3257_zps0mull7ol.jpg (http://s924.photobucket.com/user/kalimarus/media/DSCF3257_zps0mull7ol.jpg.html)

[Riceburner]

My valves were "tight"... :hmm:

[pete]

Is everyone seeing the same thing upon their first valve inspection, that the gaps are too wide?

I haven't done mine yet, but have seen multiple reports that the gaps are too wide, even after 1000 miles. (supposed to be .06, measured at .1 or something to that effect)

Too wide is better than too tight.

Do we think Zongshen is trying to compromise, assuming that many owners won't check or adjust their valves often enough?...and maybe leaving them wide in order to allow more leeway?

Lee's recent post about poor mpg started me thinking. I'm just through my first tank of gas, and after this coming weekend will no doubt be around 500 miles or so.

Lee did also post about top speed, and his was right in line with others, indicating the motor is running well?

Just trying to understand.

In the first few thousand km is when the motor dose the most
settling in...
I would rarther see lose vavles over tight dueing that time...


..

[SpudRider]

Danimal,

I'll know this weekend as I just hit 500 miles and am doing the first round of maintenance. I don't think anything is wrong with my bike, it's more a Yeti with a heavy right hand that's causing the MPG issues...

http://i924.photobucket.com/albums/ad85/kalimarus/DSCF3257_zps0mull7ol.jpg (http://s924.photobucket.com/user/kalimarus/media/DSCF3257_zps0mull7ol.jpg.html)

Now you did it; you made me homesick. ;) I was raised in Pennsylvania, and I miss the wonderful fall foliage. Thanks for posting the beautiful photograph from upstate New York. :tup:

P.S. I think you are correct. If you are easier on the throttle, I think you will see a big boost in gas mileage. :)

[SpudRider]

My valves were "tight"... :hmm:

Translation:

My valve clearances were less than the specified minimum of 0.04 mm. ;) Therefore, the space between the valve tappet and valve stem was too narrow for the feeler gauge, or 'tight.'

[SpudRider]

In the first few thousand km is when the motor dose the most
settling in...
I would rarther see lose vavles over tight dueing that time...


..

Amen. Slappy valves are happy valves. ;) Loose valves are better than tight valves. :)

[Riceburner]

Translation:

My valve clearances were less than the specified minimum of 0.04 mm. ;) Therefore, the space between the valve tappet and valve stem was too narrow for the feeler gauge, or 'tight.'

Yeah SudRider, that's what I said... :lmao:, :lmao:, :lmao:

I could not get a 0.04 to fit; I wrote down the gap but don't have it here with me now but baby, it was tight...

[Lee R]

I'm checking mine right now, intake valves were both below .038 which is the smallest feeler I have. I set them to .06mm.

Spark plug was in good shape so that's a good sign.


Now I'm staring at the front trying to figure out how to get to them. My hands are huge and it may require removing the radiators.

[Lee R]

Well thankfully the exhaust valves were about .065 so a little loose and I left them that way. That is one hell of a pain if you have large hands to get too. I'm just pulling the radiators off and changing coolant next check.

My Guzzi takes an hour to do both cylinders as they are both fully exposed and 4 bolts to open. This one took me about 4-5 hours with a good 3 hours messing with the front.

Pulling the regulator/rectifier off lets you move the left radiator a bit further back but not enough for me.

Get a t-handle or 8 inch socket extension as a wrench will be very difficult on the left radiator top bolt.

Intakes were less than .038 and adjusted to .06mm

Exhaust were .065mm in the first 500 miles.


Lee

[rtking]

Tight valves on mine at 200 miles. Exhaust was tough, but having to do the job a couple of times (don't ask), I've got the process down and only loosen the left side radiator to do this job.

[SpudRider]

Well thankfully the exhaust valves were about .065 so a little loose and I left them that way. That is one hell of a pain if you have large hands to get too. I'm just pulling the radiators off and changing coolant next check.

My Guzzi takes an hour two do both cylinders as they are both fully exposed and 4 bolts to open. This one took me about 4-5 hours with a good 3 hours messing with the front.

Pulling the regulator/rectifier off lets you move the left radiator a bit further back but not enough for me.

Get a t-handle or 8 inch socket extension as a wrench will be very difficult on the left radiator top bolt.

Intakes were less than .38 and adjusted to .06mm

Exhaust were .065mm in the first 500 miles.


Lee

Yes, it's a tedious job adjusting the valves on this bike. There is not a lot of room available to adjust the intake valves, and the exhaust valves are even worse.

I loosen only the left radiator. First I move the regulator/rectifier (RR) out of the way. Then I pull the left radiator back, and hold it out of the way with a bungee cord. I work only on the left side while adjusting the exhaust valves. ;)

I can adjust the valves on my Honda XR650L and Zongshen ZS200GY-2 in a leisurely 45 minutes. I budget 2-3 hours to adjust the valves on my RX3. ;) The Chinese really shoehorned the engine into the frame on this motorcycle.

[Lee R]

Yes, it's a tedious job adjusting the valves on this bike. There is not a lot of room available to adjust the intake valves, and the exhaust valves are even worse.

I loosen only the left radiator. First I move the regulator/rectifier (RR) out of the way. Then I pull the left radiator back, and hold it out of the way with a bungee cord. I work only on the left side while adjusting the exhaust valves. ;)

I can adjust the valves on my Honda XR650L and Zongshen ZS200GY-2 in a leisurely 45 minutes. I budget 2-3 hours to adjust the valves on my RX3. ;) The Chinese really shoehorned the engine into the frame on this motorcycle.

This ones a challenge for the exhaust valves!

I may remove that bracket for the radiator from the frame next time and work just off the left side. That was giving me a really hard time getting my hand in there.

Maybe a longer or modified feeler would help as well. I'm using some that I "bent" on my own to fit without flexing and throwing off the feeler.

I'm also curious how hard it would be to just remove the stuff in the way from the top and go after the exhaust from there.

[SpudRider]

You're not going to be able to work on the exhaust valves from the top. :ohno: I can only poke a screwdriver down from the top to hold the tappet in place as I tighten the nut. ;)

[rtking]

I didn't remove the rectifier, but it's a great idea to. That would have made swinging the left radiator up a lot easier. Bungee or wire is a must to tie the radiator out of the way.

After you get the exhaust valve cover off, take a break. Grab a soda or beer. Take a bio break. Point is... You're going to need all the patience you can muster for the exhaust valves. And you're going to want to check your work three times to ensure that gap is correct because you sure as heck don't want to do this job again if you can avoid it. So being somewhat rested an relaxed is going to help tremendously.

A long 8 mm open ended and closed end wrench will be invaluable. A long and short flat head screwdriver will be helpful. And don't worry about bending the feeler gauge...it's only .040 - .060 mm, so it's plenty flexible. But getting the gauge under the tappet, then tightening the tappet to get a feel for the drag on the feeler gauge is going to be critical.

[SpudRider]

I didn't remove the rectifier, but it's a great idea to. That would have made swinging the left radiator up a lot easier. Bungee or wire is a must to tie the radiator out of the way.

After you get the exhaust valve cover off, take a break. Grab a soda or beer. Take a bio break. Point is... You're going to need all the patience you can muster for the exhaust valves. And you're going to want to check your work three times to ensure that gap is correct because you sure as heck don't want to do this job again if you can avoid it. So being somewhat rested an relaxed is going to help tremendously.

A long 8 mm open ended and closed end wrench will be invaluable. A long and short flat head screwdriver will be helpful. And don't worry about bending the feeler gauge...it's only .040 - .060 mm, so it's plenty flexible. But getting the gauge under the tappet, then tightening the tappet to get a feel for the drag on the feeler gauge is going to be critical.

All this advice is excellent, especially the remark concerning the 8mm wrench. :) Several years ago I bought an 8mm, Kobalt combination wrench for my Zongshen ZS200GY-2, and it is a perfect tool for adjusting the valves of the RX3. :tup:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_337658-25428-85633_0__?productId=3387166&Ntt=

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/099198/099198856339.jpg

[Lee R]

All this advice is excellent, especially the remark concerning the 8mm wrench. :) Several years ago I bought an 8mm, Kobalt combination wrench for my Zongshen ZS200GY-2, and it is a perfect tool for adjusting the valves of the RX3. :tup:

http://www.lowes.com/pd_337658-25428-85633_0__?productId=3387166&Ntt=

http://images.lowes.com/product/converted/099198/099198856339.jpg



Funny I have that same wrench and used it for my valve checks as well. Also works great on the Guzzi.


Lee

[SpudRider]

Funny I have that same wrench and used it for my valve checks as well. Also works great on the Guzzi.


Lee

The clearance between the cylinder head and the valve tappet nuts is close, so it is sometimes difficult to get the box end of a combination wrench over the nut. I was pleased I had this particular wrench in my tool kit, because it made the job much easier. Also, the length of this wrench facilitates tightening the valve tappet nuts. :)