Auxiliary Lights

[Huck369]

I added some Auxiliary Lights to my RX-3 over the weekend,
They are a set I saw on sale at Tractor Supply for $39.99

I like how they came out, they are a "Work Light" not a "Driving Light" so they have a wide spread of light, but do a Great job of lighting up off to the sides and around the bike...would be extra good addition to the LED headlight.
I got to ride it to work this morning in the Starlit sky, and no one Flashed me for them being too bright.

They are very well made, Cast Aluminum Housing, 5 LED lights in each one, and I mounted them to the mid Guard bolt, I have to grind a little on the bolt to let it fit in the bracket, but nothing much.

I wired them to the Aux #1 loom, and I am very happy with them.

Very easy to install.....

I highly Recommend for someone looking for some inexpensive LED Aux Lights..
A few pics. (We all like pics, right? :) )

[SpudRider]

Those are very nice lights, and that is a beautiful installation. :tup: Thanks for sharing the information, and posting the excellent photos. :)

[Huck369]

I'd have taken some pics of the spread of light on my way to work this morning, but it was 30 degrees, so I really didn't want to stop to take pics :)
I'll try to get some one morning, to add to the thread....

[Danimal]

Here are the lights I choose

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x125W-3000LM-CREE-U5-LED-Motorcycle-Driving-Fog-Spot-light-Headlight-US-/331377161027?hash=item4d279e3343:g:pLsAAOSwIBBUYwi 9&vxp=mtr

The clamps are mounted with two bolts, holding the lamps straight ahead.

This will not work, as the area close to the side panels is angled and not flat.

I disassembled the lights and removed the REAR screw bolting them to the clamp.
Then I adjusted the angle to where I wanted them pointing (using a 3cell Lipo for power) and then marked where the rear hold should be.

Drilled a new rear hold and bolted them up. Solid as a rock

Now these lights have three setting...high, low and strobe.
I hooed the up to BOTH A1 and A2, figuring that when I switched on A1 high would come on. Then I thought going to A2 would temporarily switch power off before A2 came on going to low beam, but apparently goping from A1 to A2 does NOT stop power to the item. So now I just flick to A1 back and forth to cycle to whatever function I want.
I may disable the three functions and make them JUST high beam (there's a video on You Tube showing how to disable with a small soldering)

Either way they work fine

[Huck369]

Link to the ones I used:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-15-watt-work-light-pack-of-2?cm_vc=-10005

[Adjuster]

If any of you guys have a Northern Tool Supply store in your towns make sure you check out their lights. My local store has a very nice selection of led lights and there all on a display so you can fire them up and check them out.


/

[SpudRider]

Link to the ones I used:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-15-watt-work-light-pack-of-2?cm_vc=-10005

Thanks for posting the link. :)

I would prefer to mount the lights inside the lower engine guard. Do you think these lights can be adapted to a circular bar mount, instead of the flat mount?

[Huck369]

Thanks for posting the link. :)

I would prefer to mount the lights inside the lower engine guard. Do you think these lights can be adapted to a circular bar mount, instead of the flat mount?

I think they will mount on the inside of the guards, right where I put them,(other end of the bolt) I even considered mounting them that way, but feel like the forks and wheel would block a lot of the light, so I mounted them outside, if you look at the last pic, I think there are other holes that can be used for mounting brackets too, but you would have to fab your own brackets.

[Danimal]

I really wanted to make sure that mine wouldn't be taken out in a tip-over, so I wanted them inside and on top, where CSC mounts theirs.

Although the bigger triangle should help with being seen.

[SpudRider]

If any of you guys have a Northern Tool Supply store in your towns make sure you check out their lights. My local store has a very nice selection of led lights and there all on a display so you can fire them up and check them out.


/

I wish we had a Northern Tool Supply nearby. :cry: Nevertheless, thanks for posting the good tip which can be useful to others more fortunate than I. :)

[Weldangrind]

I have to grind a little on the bolt to let it fit in the bracket, but nothing much.

You could also swap the bolt for a button head; that would likely give you the clearance you need.

Very nice installation. At that price, it's not the end of the world if you break one by dropping the bike.

[Weldangrind]

Then I thought going to A2 would temporarily switch power off before A2 came on going to low beam, but apparently going from A1 to A2 does NOT stop power to the item. So now I just flick to A1 back and forth to cycle to whatever function I want.

Are you saying that if you select A2, A1 still has power? If that's the case, you could wire an accessory (like grip heaters) to A1, and the lights to A2. That way, your grip heaters would remain on while the lights are on.

[Weldangrind]

I disassembled the lights and removed the REAR screw bolting them to the clamp.
Then I adjusted the angle to where I wanted them pointing (using a 3cell Lipo for power) and then marked where the rear hold should be.

Could your lights be simply clamped to the outside of the guard, similar to how Huck installed his? May we see a pic of your installation?

[Weldangrind]

Link to the ones I used:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-15-watt-work-light-pack-of-2?cm_vc=-10005

I really like those. I can see installing them on our quads.

[Danimal]

Could your lights be simply clamped to the outside of the guard, similar to how Huck installed his? May we see a pic of your installation?

I suppose, as long as the up/down left/right adjustment is where you want the beam. These are VERY bright very focused spots with quite some throw as they have glass projector lens.
Again, I wanted them protected in a spill.
Here is a bit better pic. You can see that the cage is no longer in line with the clamp.
The clamp has two screws bolting it to the cage. Fixed in position.
All I did was disassemble the light, removed the REAR of the two screws holding the cage on, tightening the remaining one pretty tight.
Then reassemble light in cage, clamp assembly where you want it for up/down, and then turned the entire cage left/right to where you want it. The one screw will hold that position while you take the cage back apart. Then drill the new offset rear bolt hole in the cage. Reassemble and voila
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u123/Danimal_album_photos/D0A4F953-70C6-4F39-88CF-44353237FC25_zpszzzhtcna.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/Danimal_album_photos/media/D0A4F953-70C6-4F39-88CF-44353237FC25_zpszzzhtcna.jpg.html)

[Weldangrind]

Thanks for the pic. That makes more sense to me now.

[Danimal]

Now that I think of it, that rear bolt hole could easily be a curved slot, allowing you to fine tune the aim, rather than being fixed.
That way you wouldn't have to do the whole mounting and taking back apart
Does that make sense?

[dave92029]

initially I ordered the 30W Cree lights from CSC, but they put out too much light. I was afraid that they would blind or distract on coming traffic. I exchanged the 30W for CSC's 10W Cree lights. I am much happier with these lights.

I wanted the best triangle light effect with my standard headlight, so the Cree were mounted low and inside on the crash bars. This also provide good protection for the lights if the bike should fall over.

I compared CSC prices against what my BMW friends were paying for PIAA Cree lights and they appeared reasonable. You guys have gotten an even better deal, but I also wanted to continue to support CSC so they can continue to provide excellent customer service and maintain their inventory of spare parts.

Here are some photos of my CSC10W lights:

[Danimal]

initially I ordered the 30W Cree lights from CSC, but they put out too much light. I was afraid that they would blind or distract on coming traffic. I exchanged the 30W for CSC's 10W Cree lights. I am much happier with these lights.

I wanted the best triangle light effect with my standard headlight, so the Cree were mounted low and inside on the crash bars. This also provide good protection for the lights if the bike should fall over.

I compared CSC prices against what my BMW friends were paying for PIAA Cree lights and they appeared reasonable. You guys have gotten an even better deal, but I also wanted to continue to support CSC so they can continue to provide excellent customer service and maintain their inventory of spare parts.

Here are some photos of my CSC10W lights:

Those look fine. CSC will continue to get my business only when it makes sense. Costs are way down on higher output LEDs and drivers.
The 30W Crees are so focused it was simple to aim them so no one is blinded.
I have them nearly merged together about where the lowest edge of the main headlight beam hits the ground. Perhaps 20 ft from the bike.

And CSCs 30W are a combined 30W (multiple LEDs, each with its own little reflector)
Mine is a single 30W Cree chip. Big difference. Not so much scattered light

[SpudRider]

Dave,

That is a very nice, clean installation. Thanks for posting the excellent photos. :) Is the on/off switch mounted near one of the lights? Did you hook the auxiliary lights to the A1 power outlet?

[dave92029]

Dave,

That is a very nice, clean installation. Thanks for posting the excellent photos. :) Is the on/off switch mounted near one of the lights? Did you hook the auxiliary lights to the A1 power outlet?

My lights are hooked to A2, less chance of casually hitting the switch.

[SpudRider]

My lights are hooked to A2, less chance of casually hitting the switch.

That makes good sense. :) Is the on/off switch located near one of the lights?

[Weldangrind]

Now that I think of it, that rear bolt hole could easily be a curved slot, allowing you to fine tune the aim, rather than being fixed.
That way you wouldn't have to do the whole mounting and taking back apart
Does that make sense?

That does make sense. That said, perhaps the CSC mounting style would be easier. It seems to be easily adjustable on two planes.

[dave92029]

That makes good sense. :) Is the on/off switch located near one of the lights?

The aux 2 switch is my on/off switch for the Cree lights.

[Weldangrind]

initially I ordered the 30W Cree lights from CSC, but they put out too much light. I was afraid that they would blind or distract on coming traffic. I exchanged the 30W for CSC's 10W Cree lights. I am much happier with these lights.

That's the first question I was going to ask. I figured that 30W would be excessively bright.

...but I also wanted to continue to support CSC so they can continue to provide excellent customer service and maintain their inventory of spare parts.

Those look fine. CSC will continue to get my business only when it makes sense.


I agree with both of you. I would like to support CSC, but I'm also open to other vendors for such things. Even though I wish to support CSC, I wouldn't hesitate to shop on Taobao.

[Weldangrind]

The aux 2 switch is my on/off switch for the Cree lights.

Are you using a relay?

[dave92029]

That's the first question I was going to ask. I figured that 30W would be excessively bright.

I agree with both of you. I would like to support CSC, but I'm also open to other vendors for such things. Even though I wish to support CSC, I wouldn't hesitate to shop on Taobao.

Generally I like searching the web for the the best deal, but CSC hasn't become a large company yet. I can't believe that they are making very much by selling the RX3 for $3,495, so the accessories and parts are probably a higher margin sale for them. If we expect that the sole dealer in North America is to survive then the RX3 owners will need to continue to support CSC by purchasing accessories when needed.

I also purchased CSC seat and heated grips. There was a forum topic about where other RX3 owners were getting their heated grips. No one mentioned CSC. I checked ebay and other sources and when you add shipping and handling CSC was asking a fair price.

I don't like over paying, but it sure is nice to call Ryan or Gerry and get an immediate response. That service has value to me and I'm willing to pay a little more to have that great customer service and parts inventory when I need it.

I have no affiliation with CSC, except as a satisfied customer who wants them to continue to do well and provide all RX3 owners with new products ( progressive shock, etc)

[MattyBoy1976]

Are you saying that if you select A2, A1 still has power? If that's the case, you could wire an accessory (like grip heaters) to A1, and the lights to A2. That way, your grip heaters would remain on while the lights are on.

When I installed my heated grips, I tested that idea, because I wondered the same thing. My multimeter registered power to each plug only when the respective switch was on. That is, there's power only to A1 when A1 is on, and power only to A2 when it's on. Bummer!

[SpudRider]

The aux 2 switch is my on/off switch for the Cree lights.

Yes, of course. Then the large object in the wire must be a plug. Is that correct?

http://www.chinariders.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=3726&stc=1&d=1445297808

[NoVa Rider]

Based on Danimal's recommendation, I just ordered the $35 set from EBay.

I plan to wire them into the red hazard warning switch. Never felt I needed the hazard warning feature on a motorcycle.

I expect that by using the hazard switch, it will be easy to toggle through low, high, and strobe settings. That way I'll avoid the need for a headlight modulator.

[dave92029]

Yes, of course. Then the large object in the wire must be a plug. Is that correct?

http://www.chinariders.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=3726&stc=1&d=1445297808

Yes

[SpudRider]

The plug is a nice feature which makes it much easier to remove engine guards without having to remove the lights. :tup:

[SpudRider]

That does make sense. That said, perhaps the CSC mounting style would be easier. It seems to be easily adjustable on two planes.

The CSC lights are very well designed. I like the robust adjustable mounts and the large plugs in the wiring harness near the lights. I also like the secure placement of the lights which are fully inside the upper engine guard. :tup:

http://www.chinariders.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=3725&stc=1&d=1445297808

[Huck369]

Took some pics of the light spread...

First one Light on Low, no Aux lights, 2nd pic, Light on low with the Aux lights on also...

[SpudRider]

Thanks for posting the excellent photos. I obviously need to add some auxiliary lighting. The stock headlight does a good job illuminating the roadway ahead, but the peripheral lighting is marginal. ;) Your second photo demonstrates the auxiliary lights are doing an excellent job. :)

[Danimal]

Word to the wise for anyone considering using the one's I am using that have
High/Low/Strobe functions
This morning for some reason they are not in synch any longer. When one is on high the other is on strobe, etc.
I can correct this by unplugging one and getting them on the same off/on sequence...but that may be a pain in the ass eventually if it continues to happen.

There IS a video on youtube showing how to disable the three-way and make them always on high with just a simple soldered bridge on the circuit board. I think that is where I am heading with them. I see no need for low power OR strobe (although strobing at a slow moving cage would no doubt get their attention, although illegal)

[Weldangrind]

Given the mounting style, brightness and toggle issue, I think I'd gravitate towards the TSC lights. The pattern that I'm seeing from Huck's pics looks quite good.

Danimal, what size do you think the clamp on your lights was meant to accommodate? 7/8"?

[Weldangrind]

Thanks for posting the excellent photos. I obviously need to add some auxiliary lighting. The stock headlight does a good job illuminating the roadway ahead, but the peripheral lighting is marginal. ;) Your second photo demonstrates the auxiliary lights are doing an excellent job. :)

LED auxiliary lights might be the perfect complement to the LED headlight that you're not currently using.

[roots]

Word to the wise for anyone considering using the one's I am using that have
High/Low/Strobe functions
This morning for some reason they are not in synch any longer. When one is on high the other is on strobe, etc.
I can correct this by unplugging one and getting them on the same off/on sequence...but

I have similar lights but without the cage around them. I thought I would have an issue with the functions, however they work perfectly once I hooked everything up with a relay. I have them tapped into aux1 and keep it on all the time. Everytime I start up they on are high and have not become un synced. If I switched the ignition power on/off/on quickly they toggle through the different modes. Or while riding if I switch the aux1 off and then on quickly they toggle, but if I pause for at least 5 seconds then they just turn back on in the hig mode.

I have no idea why it would matter, but I think it seems to related to the way I wired it.

[SpudRider]

I just discovered a new Tractor Supply in town. :) I am going to visit the store, and look for Huck's auxiliary lights. :tup:

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-15-watt-work-light-pack-of-2?cm_vc=-10005

[Weldangrind]

To see what a good deal you're getting at TSC, take a look at these lights from Princess Auto: http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/2-3-4-x-2-3-4-in-aluminum-utility-led-flood-light/A-p8466096e

A lousy nine watts total, and they're $69.99 each! >:

[Danimal]

Given the mounting style, brightness and toggle issue, I think I'd gravitate towards the TSC lights. The pattern that I'm seeing from Huck's pics looks quite good.

Danimal, what size do you think the clamp on your lights was meant to accommodate? 7/8"?

1" I think. The clamp fits the cage perfectly as far as diameter

I will repeat. You cannot compare the 30W output that is using 6 x 5W Cree LEDs to a projector using a single U5 Cree 30W chip.

The single chip projectors are VERY focused with little "bleed" to cause issues with oncoming cars (assuming you do not have them aimed too high.)

[Riceburner]

My Cree 10 watt driving lights, Duct Tape, the cure for what ever ales you...

The little attaching screw at the bottom of the light housing to the mounting bracket worked loose, both lights and they had blue lock tight (but it's the Filipino brand) :crazy:

I do like them inside the crash bars, low and wide but they get a bit dirty, have to wash them off sometimes but the cars can still see me in the daytime, I keep them always turned "ON".

I wired the headlight "Hot", always "on" (not switched); here in the Philippines they are not always on like the US version and I want to be seen by on coming traffic.

So I used the OEM light switch, what the US RX3 uses as auxiliary A1 - A2, I used that for the driving lights, A1 is set to operate the right side light as a single unit if I want and A2 operates both. I'm sure your asking yourself, "self, why would he do that???" :hmm: Because I live in the Philippines, that's why.

The drivers here are nuts, their lights are out of adjustment and yet they flash me :crazy:. I know my headlight and driving lights do not shine high, not even close but they still flash me. The left light actually shines more to center on my travel line, in front of the tire path and the right is set to shine along the edge of the road so I can see the people walking with dark shirts on or the bicycle rider with no lights or reflectors.

With the the driving lights set to A1 and A2 I can turn off the left driving light, this reduces the flashing from on coming traffic but does not eliminate it.

3768

3769

3770,

Oh, my order of duct Tape arrived yesterday morning, just in time for that roadside fix-it yesterday afternoon...

[ElectricCircus]

Oh, my order of duct Tape arrived yesterday morning, just in time for that roadside fix-it yesterday afternoon...
:lol:

[NoVa Rider]

I mounted the $35 aux lights that are sold by the following ebay seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x125W-3000L...BUYwi9&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x125W-3000LM-CREE-U5-LED-Motorcycle-Driving-Fog-Spot-light-Headlight-US-/331377161027?hash=item4d279e3343:g:pLsAAOSwIBBUYwi 9&vxp=mtr)

I used the through bolt mount that joins the upper and lower engine guards, just like Huck did with his Tractor Supply lights in the first post in this thread. Ditched the clamps that came with the lights, got a longer (60mm) 8mm bolt and a half inch spacer, and ran the bolt through the sheet metal exterior frame of the lights. Super easy. They are exposed but I like the wider triangle for visibility for oncoming drivers. And in a spill, they are only $35.

My idea of rewiring the red hazard switch to work the lights did not work out. The wires go directly from the hazard switch to the turn signal switch. It could be done but I think too difficult to run new wires through the switch. So I wired the lights into the A2 circuit. Easy to toggle through high, low and strobe settings.

One of the lamps stopped working after about an hour. But the ebay seller has sent me a new one with apologies and no questions asked. I will give him a positive rating, and hope the failed lamp was a fluke.

I like the looks though on close inspection they are cheap. I am OK with the spot projection. I don't ride at night, and I mainly want the lights to increase visibility to oncoming drivers. And I admit it, the "cool" factor of aux lights without spending much money.

[SpudRider]

If you have time, please post photos of your installation. :)

[Danimal]

I mounted the $35 aux lights that are sold by the following ebay seller.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x125W-3000L...BUYwi9&vxp=mtr (http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x125W-3000LM-CREE-U5-LED-Motorcycle-Driving-Fog-Spot-light-Headlight-US-/331377161027?hash=item4d279e3343:g:pLsAAOSwIBBUYwi 9&vxp=mtr)

I used the through bolt mount that joins the upper and lower engine guards, just like Huck did with his Tractor Supply lights in the first post in this thread. Ditched the clamps that came with the lights, got a longer (60mm) 8mm bolt and a half inch spacer, and ran the bolt through the sheet metal exterior frame of the lights. Super easy. They are exposed but I like the wider triangle for visibility for oncoming drivers. And in a spill, they are only $35.

My idea of rewiring the red hazard switch to work the lights did not work out. The wires go directly from the hazard switch to the turn signal switch. It could be done but I think too difficult to run new wires through the switch. So I wired the lights into the A2 circuit. Easy to toggle through high, low and strobe settings.

One of the lamps stopped working after about an hour. But the ebay seller has sent me a new one with apologies and no questions asked. I will give him a positive rating, and hope the failed lamp was a fluke.

I like the looks though on close inspection they are cheap. I am OK with the spot projection. I don't ride at night, and I mainly want the lights to increase visibility to oncoming drivers. And I admit it, the "cool" factor of aux lights without spending much money.

Same lights I have. It was easy to drill a new hole in the cage for the clamps so they were angled right, and have them protected and high.
Aimed properly they actually throw usable light. Not a flood

[SpudRider]

I installed the Tractor Supply Traveller auxiliary lights discovered by Huck369. :tup: I posted the details of my installation at the following thread. ;)

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15437

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/GEDC1799_zpscu4fgryh.jpg

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/GEDC1797_zpsnwqjvqxg.jpg

[NoVa Rider]

Here are photos of my aux lights purchased from an ebay seller. Simple installation and good wide stance. I kind of like the military "ray gun" look, though the surrounding guards are just painted sheet metal. They are vulnerable to tip overs in this position but they are only $35.

Again, I ditched the clamps, and used the bolt that secures the upper and lower guards. I needed a longer 8mm bolt a 1/2 spacer, and ran the bolt through the inner sheet metal "guard" for the lamp. The lights can be swiveled up or down, and the lamps can be adjusted left or right. They produce a focused spot pattern. One failed but the ebay seller sent me a replacement and I have my fingers crossed that they will last.

[rtking]

Looks great, NoVA Rider! Between you, Spud and everyone else... I'm having Auxiliary Light Envy! :hehe:

I saw a fellow RX3 rider's 30W lights over the weekend. It was daylight, and they were indeed bright. But I'm tempted to give those a try... they're more spendy, but I'm thinking those lights would be useful for both the Urban Jungle, and for remote trails if I ride in the early AM hours or get caught in the dusk hours. I need to save up a few shekels though... been spending on a another project on the RX3. :p

[MattyBoy1976]

I found these lights on Amazon, and installed them yesterday:
3939
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HA14OK4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s01

For 50 bucks with free Prime shipping, not a bad deal. I like the fact that they came equipped with weatherproof (resistant!) plugs.

I also purchased this wiring harness from an eBay seller in England:
3940
http://www.ebay.com/itm/191533392034?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

I know my limitations, and creating neat wiring is an area in which I am limited ;). I liked this one because it came with the same weather resistant plugs that the lights came with-pretty handy.

I purchased the 1" bar mounts from CSC, and mounted the lights inside the lower crash bars.

http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/1-BAR-CLAMP-BLACK-1-2-HOLE-EACH-p/csc-1011.htm

I wanted a large triangle of lights for daytime visibility, so I was a little concerned about mounting them inside the crash bars. But after hooking these things up and turning them on, I'll probably be summoning aliens-they're plenty bright! Plus, I can always move them if I want.

I also stole a tutorial from a website called Canyon Chasers on how to build a power distribution block for a motorcycle:

http://www.canyonchasers.net/shop/generic/relay.php

I couldn't find the sort of block the author used, but I did find this device that's apparently used for car stereo amplifiers:
3941
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0051UH9DU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

Once I had the power distribution block wired together (it stows nicely under the passenger seat), I hooked up my previously-installed heated grips to make sure it worked. It did. So I hooked up my new wiring harness, mounted the lights, and they fired right up, too. By the way, I have the power distribution block powered with a relay that's attached to the Auxiliary 1 switch. So I can turn the switch to the Aux 1 position, and then have power for my heated grips or lights or both, and each is switched on and off separately.

Here's what they look like mounted to the crash bar:
3942
Here's "on:"
3943
Now I just have to wait for my new O2 sensor to arrive from CSC, and the current round of snow to melt, and I can go try them out!

[keithmaine]

Nice job

[SpudRider]

Here are photos of my aux lights purchased from an ebay seller. Simple installation and good wide stance. I kind of like the military "ray gun" look, though the surrounding guards are just painted sheet metal. They are vulnerable to tip overs in this position but they are only $35.

Again, I ditched the clamps, and used the bolt that secures the upper and lower guards. I needed a longer 8mm bolt a 1/2 spacer, and ran the bolt through the inner sheet metal "guard" for the lamp. The lights can be swiveled up or down, and the lamps can be adjusted left or right. They produce a focused spot pattern. One failed but the ebay seller sent me a replacement and I have my fingers crossed that they will last.

Thanks for posting the photos of your installation. You did a nice job. :tup:

http://www.chinariders.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=3934&stc=1&d=1447252007

[SpudRider]

I found these lights on Amazon, and installed them yesterday...

That is a clean installation. :) Thanks for posting all the great links and excellent photographs. :tup:

http://www.chinariders.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=3943&d=1447264673

[MattyBoy1976]

[QUOTE=SpudRider;197416]That is a clean installation. :) Thanks for posting all the great links and excellent photographs. :tup:


Thanks for the kind words...you notice I didn't post any pics of the underside of the install! I think I'll reroute cables when I have the gas tank off when I do the valve adjustment, and then I might reveal what it looks like behind closed doors!

[SpudRider]

We will await further photos after you pull the fuel tank. :)

Please tell me more about the power distribution block.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410jAbsaBML.jpg

One block connects to 12V+, and the other block connects to ground. You have four outputs for each input. Where do you attach the wires?

[MattyBoy1976]

We will await further photos after you pull the fuel tank. :)

Please tell me more about the power distribution block.

http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/410jAbsaBML.jpg

One block connects to 12V+, and the other block connects to ground. You have four outputs for each input. Where do you attach the wires?

So each of the holes in the block has a set screw that tightens down on the wire that is inserted into the respective hole. The block is intended for rather large wire (4 gauge input and 8 gauge output), and I used 14 gauge wire for my install. I had trouble getting the set screws to go down far enough to hold the smaller wire securely, so I ended up crimping a ring terminal onto my wire, pinching the sides to make the ring just small enough to slip into the hole in the block, and then had no problem tightening the set screws to get a secure grab. I'll see how this works, and may modify later if needed. I'll probably also put a piece of Velcro on the bottom to secure it a little better to the area under the passenger pillion, too.

The other nice feature of this block is that the two terminal portions (the metal parts) are covered with removable acrylic covers, which keeps any inadvertent short-circuits from happening. All in all, once I figured out how to keep the smaller wires secure, it's a nice, simple piece of equipment.

By the way, this particular one measures about 2 3/8 inches square, if anyone was wondering.

[SpudRider]

Thanks for posting the detailed explanation. :) Now I understand how it works. ;)

[Adjuster]

If you live anywhere near any kind of boating/marine supply store they are the best place to purchase any kind of electrical connection type components. Boats have tons of electrical accessories needing all types of components and everything is marine rated at a minimum water resistant all the way up to salt waterproof. The connections above are called busbars and come in every imaginable shape and size. Marine supply stores sell every shape and size.



/

[keithmaine]

Amazon and ebay have many many varieties of bus bars with or without fuses. If you prefer online sources.

[Danimal]

Here is a follow up report on my Cree U5 125w led spotlights.
These are the ones selling so cheaply everywhere. Look like a transformer with the cage surrounding the light with the large glass projector lens.
In a nutshell, they suck.
When new, they are incredible although frustrating with a 3 stage switch (high, low and strobe) they project a nice aimable spot.
Problem is they are no where near waterproof as they claim. I have had three fail now. Bought from Banggood US warehouse for $18 each.
When the first failed, Became frustrated dealing with their lack of customer service and just ordered another.
Last weeks ride in the fog had water running amuck in both, and both fried the LED chips.
Sent pics last night to Banggood demanding replacements.
IF they send them I will do two things. Take them apart and seal all threads and add an o ring to face of lens. Then I will solder a jumper to the board disabling the 3 way so they are always on high. (Video on YouTube showing how)
In the meantime, I ordered a set that are kinda like the Tractior Supply lights, but these are 4" wide and have 6x3w Cree LEDs in each producing 1800 lumens.
Maybe overkill, but perfect for such an under kill bike!
Will post pics when they arrive

The new ones

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/171447104915

[keithmaine]

Here is a follow up report on my Cree U5 125w led spotlights.
These are the ones selling so cheaply everywhere. Look like a transformer with the cage surrounding the light with the large glass projector lens.
In a nutshell, they suck.
When new, they are incredible although frustrating with a 3 stage switch (high, low and strobe) they project a nice aimable spot.
Problem is they are no where near waterproof as they claim. I have had three fail now. Bought from Banggood US warehouse for $18 each.
When the first failed, Became frustrated dealing with their lack of customer service and just ordered another.
Last weeks ride in the fog had water running amuck in both, and both fried the LED chips.
Sent pics last night to Banggood demanding replacements.
IF they send them I will do two things. Take them apart and seal all threads and add an o ring to face of lens. Then I will solder a jumper to the board disabling the 3 way so they are always on high. (Video on YouTube showing how)
In the meantime, I ordered a set that are kinda like the Tractior Supply lights, but these are 4" wide and have 6x3w Cree LEDs in each producing 1800 lumens.
Maybe overkill, but perfect for such an under kill bike!
Will post pics when they arrive

The new ones

http://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/171447104915

Thanks for the update and being a test subject. :)

[Danimal]

With lenses removed you can clearly see the water egress and even mud made its way in there
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u123/Danimal_album_photos/42576C12-9F47-4698-9FC1-BB0EFC5D5611_zpsvcvwggnh.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/Danimal_album_photos/media/42576C12-9F47-4698-9FC1-BB0EFC5D5611_zpsvcvwggnh.jpg.html)

Close up showing dirt water and a fried 15w Cree LED
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u123/Danimal_album_photos/79CA3C09-C5B7-4659-A84B-C7FBD4494CBD_zpsrmlmppz4.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/Danimal_album_photos/media/79CA3C09-C5B7-4659-A84B-C7FBD4494CBD_zpsrmlmppz4.jpg.html)

[Huck369]

The Tractor Supply lights were on sale recently for $29.99.....they are a 5 LED design

[SpudRider]

I like the Tractor Supply Work Lights. :) However, I paid $40 for mine, and that is the current price.

http://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/traveller-15-watt-work-light-pack-of-2?cm_vc=-10005&avad=55963_ba190ff5&al_affid=41227

[Danimal]

These are the ones I just ordered.

I'll see your 5 LEDs and raise you one LED:p

Urge Overkill!:D
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u123/Danimal_album_photos/Danimal_album_photos003/s-l500_zpsiihsj4yx.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/Danimal_album_photos/media/Danimal_album_photos003/s-l500_zpsiihsj4yx.jpg.html)

[SpudRider]

Please let us know how you like the new lights. ;)

[Danimal]

In anticipation of their arrival, I cut a piece of paper to the same dimensions to get a perspective of just how damn big these are in relation to the Roxxer's front end (BTW, that's my name for all RX3's)
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u123/Danimal_album_photos/59584916-7AF4-4F8D-AF65-A4B55917B054_zps9eypeat7.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/Danimal_album_photos/media/59584916-7AF4-4F8D-AF65-A4B55917B054_zps9eypeat7.jpg.html)

Also, mounted a touch light in the top case. Have these in my Givis on my other bike.
Cheap as sin on Banggood and use a rechargeable abc cell. Experience has shown one charge to last damn near a season. Carry a spare charged cell and you're good
Hot glue wherever you like, as long as the touch panel is exposed as well as battery access
Here one is glued next to the lock. Small and light
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u123/Danimal_album_photos/E2D78598-A96E-4179-84EC-01D420492F24_zpsq9cfbzov.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/Danimal_album_photos/media/E2D78598-A96E-4179-84EC-01D420492F24_zpsq9cfbzov.jpg.html)

And lit

http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u123/Danimal_album_photos/90CD6385-37BF-4827-8B07-69888CD068B7_zpsftpahxmk.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/Danimal_album_photos/media/90CD6385-37BF-4827-8B07-69888CD068B7_zpsftpahxmk.jpg.html)

[SpudRider]

Thanks for posting the tip on the inexpensive torch lights. If you have time, please post a link for those lights. :)

[Danimal]

Thanks for posting the tip on the inexpensive torch lights. If you have time, please post a link for those lights. :)

The touch lights
http://www.banggood.com/Mini-Touch-Switch-Small-LG-LED-Light-Use-16340-CR123A-Batteries-p-929091.html

batteries and charger
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-1200mA-16340-Battery-CR123A-LR123A-3-7V-Rechargeable-Li-Ion-2x-Charger-/291547137492?hash=item43e19045d4:g:7QIAAOSwLVZVufQ 5

[Danimal]

(please excuse the filthy state of my Roxxer. Promise to wash her in the Spring):zzz:

[SpudRider]

The touch lights
http://www.banggood.com/Mini-Touch-Switch-Small-LG-LED-Light-Use-16340-CR123A-Batteries-p-929091.html

batteries and charger
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2x-1200mA-16340-Battery-CR123A-LR123A-3-7V-Rechargeable-Li-Ion-2x-Charger-/291547137492?hash=item43e19045d4:g:7QIAAOSwLVZVufQ 5

Thanks for posting the links, Dan. :)

[keithmaine]

Yes thanks I can find all kinds of uses for these lights

[Weldangrind]

I can see those touch lights being a benefit in my camping trailer.

[Danimal]

yep. SO much easier than routing wiring and such. And the CR123A batteries have great capacity for how little draw the lights take, so they really last a long time on a charge.
If you search Banggood for "LED touch light" you will see a similar version that has one end that plugs into a USP port for power.

[bogieboy]

These are the ones I just ordered.

I'll see your 5 LEDs and raise you one LED:p

Urge Overkill!:D
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u123/Danimal_album_photos/Danimal_album_photos003/s-l500_zpsiihsj4yx.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/Danimal_album_photos/media/Danimal_album_photos003/s-l500_zpsiihsj4yx.jpg.html)
ill see your 6 leds, and up the ante to a dual-B-Zenon HID projector retrofit on my shineray....

http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/uu346/bogieboy01/20151207_142715_zpsqdnssdwe.jpg (http://s662.photobucket.com/user/bogieboy01/media/20151207_142715_zpsqdnssdwe.jpg.html)

http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15572

[Danimal]

ill see your 6 leds, and up the ante to a dual-B-Zenon HID projector retrofit on my shineray....

http://i662.photobucket.com/albums/uu346/bogieboy01/20151207_142715_zpsqdnssdwe.jpg (http://s662.photobucket.com/user/bogieboy01/media/20151207_142715_zpsqdnssdwe.jpg.html)

http://chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=15572


FAIL

To usurp you would have needed more LED's Son.....

And I hate to say it, but based on my experience (retrofitted bi xenon projectors in my regular bike) that two of the 18W 6Cree lights I have coming put out a combined 3600 lumens.
THAT is on par with any HID system

[bogieboy]

FAIL

To usurp you would have needed more LED's Son.....

And I hate to say it, but based on my experience (retrofitted bi xenon projectors in my regular bike) that two of the 18W 6Cree lights I have coming put out a combined 3600 lumens.
THAT is on par with any HID system
fine... maybe i could plop my 2 18w LEDs in those turnsignal holes and use em as aux lights...hehehe

[Danimal]

So my 18W Cree XD8 LED lights came in (each unit has 6 x3w LEDs) and I mounted them up.
Bought mounts from Drag Specialties that are pretty much just like the one's CSC sells.
Everything was straight forward. Lights heavy duty and very well constructed.

A few pics.
Lights are so damn bright that my camera will not distinguish them at any real straight-on angle
so here they are at an angle
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u123/Danimal_album_photos/0DF43893-050C-4AFB-A4FE-D4AA6164EA9F_zpsbucuwt9n.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/Danimal_album_photos/media/0DF43893-050C-4AFB-A4FE-D4AA6164EA9F_zpsbucuwt9n.jpg.html)

and from above
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u123/Danimal_album_photos/7AC63634-945B-4FAD-986C-AA6D7C4F1BDB_zpsqmtchcob.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/Danimal_album_photos/media/7AC63634-945B-4FAD-986C-AA6D7C4F1BDB_zpsqmtchcob.jpg.html)

took em for a spin. They are usable as main lights. Put out more than the 55W halogen main.
Altogether was awesome. Trying to make sure they're not aimed too high

[SpudRider]

The lights look good. :tup: Please post photos showing the mounting system. Also, can you post a link for the Drag Specialties mounts?

[Danimal]

mounts

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281760136084?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

picture of light showing mounting bolt, which goes through hole in clamp
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u123/Danimal_album_photos/Danimal_album_photos005/A_zpsdwe5ohmz.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/Danimal_album_photos/media/Danimal_album_photos005/A_zpsdwe5ohmz.jpg.html)

back of light, showing pivot mechanism
http://i167.photobucket.com/albums/u123/Danimal_album_photos/Danimal_album_photos007/C_zpsiw9623ad.jpg (http://s167.photobucket.com/user/Danimal_album_photos/media/Danimal_album_photos007/C_zpsiw9623ad.jpg.html)

[SpudRider]

Thanks for posting the link to the Drag Specialties Mounts, Dan. :)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281760136084?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&rmvSB=true

[keithmaine]

Thanks Dan, I like em, I like em alot

[rtking]

Many thanks, Danimal! I followed in your footsteps and ordered up a pair of the lights and the Drag Specialties mounts. I wired them up this evening and am impressed by the amount of light they give out. Can't wait to give them a road test... hopefully tomorrow AM.

Cheers! :tup::thanks:

[rtking]

Just a follow-up on the GP Thunder lights. I like them pretty well, but they're a wide angle/flood type light, not a focused "spot beam." It works fine for my purposes which is to provide more light in front of the bike and off to the sides, and it makes me much more visible to other motorists.

One note for anyone ordering the GP Thunder lights: Check the mounting block on the light themselves. They should have a washer, then a bolt in the light body itself. Mine did not have the washer and the mounting bolt would not tighten well. Hence, if you look in the attached photo at the right side auxiliary light, the light rattled free of the bolt and was hanging by the wire. No bueno.

The solution is to take the side of the light off (the side without the wiring) and add a washer to bolt and then thread on the nut loosely. Then slide the bolt (with washer and nut) onto the aluminum light body. There's a cutout for the washer in the aluminum body. Once you do this, tightening the bolt is no issue. Other than this issue (which I hope was an oversight on my set of lights only), I like the lights really well.

Hope the New Year is treating everyone well and that everyone was able to get some riding in!

[Danimal]

FWIW, I have an unused set of GP Thunder floods for sale. Noticing the flood description too late I went and ordered another set from another vendor that are spot focused.
Was thinking maybe right side spot left flood? But never tried it yet.
Even the spot configuration lights up the surrounding area well.

[rtking]

Even the spot configuration lights up the surrounding area well.

Hi Danimal - do you recall if your spot lights were 20 or 30 degree angle spots?

I'm somewhat torn as the floods do a nice job of lighting up a surrounding area (including in front of the bike), but doesn't project very far down the road. I understand that a mix of flood and spot is best, but perhaps the floods might blind drivers since it's 60 degree light output in all directions.

The lights are cheap enough that I'll order a set of spots and give them a try. But I think the floods will work great as a set of project/garage lights if I mount them to a set of clamps or stand and connect them up to a LiPo battery.

[DanKearney]

Joe Berk mentioned the aux. light mounting that the AKT guys are selling down in Colombia. They're mounted on each side of the headlight nacelle and are (I think) part of the headlight lens guard.

http://californiascooterco.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2015/12/151213_9939-650.jpg

They look the most practcal setup I've seen so far as when the bike inevitably falls over on the trail this mounting position looks much less likely to be the first point of contact with the ground. Unfortunately, most of the other mountings I've seen make the aux. lights look very vulnerable.

I hope CSC decides to import them.

Cheers,

Dan K.

[rtking]

They look the most practcal setup I've seen so far as when the bike inevitably falls over on the trail this mounting position looks much less likely to be the first point of contact with the ground. Unfortunately, most of the other mountings I've seen make the aux. lights look very vulnerable.

I hope CSC decides to import them.



Agreed Dan! I like the AKT setup of the headlight guard and the auxiliary lights integrated. If CSC imports them, I'd bet they'd get a lot of sales of that item.

I also considered the tip over and mounted the rectangular auxiliary lights I ordered inside of the crash guards. Unfortunately there's about an inch of clearance between the plastic pieces on the fork and the lights, so if the lights were to ever shift inboard from their mount, there would be contact.

Good news is that, with the lights on and riding in the morning sun, cagers around were able to see me. I think the brighter LED lights help to make me a bit more visible which, in my mind, is a HUGE plus.

[SpudRider]

I'm positive the conspicuity of LED lights adds greatly to motorcycle visibility, and safety, at all times. :)

[AZRider]

Good review on Webbikeworld on the Oz lights.

http://www.webbikeworld.com/lights/oz-led-mini-trail-lights-review/

[SpudRider]

Thanks for posting the good link, George. :)

[rtking]

Jontando - those look really good! Very clean placement!