RX3: How to Clean and Grease the Lower Shock Linkage

[SpudRider]

It is important to clean and grease the lower shock linkage every 10,000 miles. Otherwise, you can damage the bearings, and possibly damage the shock linkage. ;) With 12,000 miles on the odometer, I performed this service on my Zongshen RX3.

In order to remove the lower shock linkage, you must first remove all weight from the rear wheel. You can either employ your center stand, or you can use a jack to accomplish this goal. Since my bike doesn't have a center stand, I raised the rear wheel by supporting the bike on a jack, and the side stand.

Once the rear wheel is lifted, I always remove the wheel. This gives me much more space to loosen/tighten bolts, and also facilitates lifting the swingarm to align bolt holes, et cetera. ;)

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/GEDC1694_zpspcznyoa9.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/GEDC1694_zpspcznyoa9.jpg.html)

[SpudRider]

I start by removing the rear bolt of the dogbone/link. After swinging the dogbone/link out of the way, I have easy access to remove the lower shock bolt. Then it is a simple matter to remove the final bolts for both the rocker/arm/knuckle, and the dogbone/link.

After the lower shock linkage is removed, I disassemble, clean, grease, and re-assemble the lower shock linkage as shown in the following videos. :)

[SpudRider]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=s3VFFJ17Lvc

[SpudRider]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oim0NfAoBBs

[SpudRider]

The only difficult pieces to remove are the elements of the lower shock mount, located in the front of the rocker/knuckle/arm. In this instance you must carefully pry off the dust seals before you can remove the inner elements. ;) I use a sharp pick to pry around the circumference of half the seal, until the seal finally releases. After both dust seals are removed, the rest of the pieces come out easily. :)

[SpudRider]

I use Lucas Oil Red 'N' Tacky #2 grease to lubricate the bearings and bushings.

http://static.summitracing.com/global/images/prod/large/luc-10574.jpg?rep=False

However, many people like the Maxima and BelRay, waterproof greases. :)

https://images.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/m/max_12_hi_tem_wat_pro_gre_16_oz_tub.jpg

https://images.rockymountainatvmc.com/images/prod/400/b/bel_15_wat_pro_gre_tub.jpg

[SpudRider]

All of the bearings in the lower shock linkage are caged needle bearings, except the bearing for the lower shock linkage. :tup: For this last bearing I perform the following steps.

Using a pick, I remove all the needles (36) from the bearing, and drop them onto a paper towel. I clean the needles by rolling them around on the paper towel.

I then clean the bearing race with a Q-tip. I apply grease to the inside of the race, and re-install the needles with a pair of tweezers. I then grease, and replace the bushings and dust seals as I do with the other bearings.

[SpudRider]

The lower shock linkage of the RX3 employs bolts the same size as most of the bolts in the lower shock linkage of my Honda CRF250X. Therefore, I used the same torque specification of 38 foot-pounds.

First, I install the front bolt for the dogbone/link.
Then I install the top, swingarm bolt for the rocker/knuckle/arm.
I then install the lower shock bolt, lifting the swingarm as necessary, to align the bolt holes.
Finally, I install the rear bolt for the dogbone/link.

After I replace the rear wheel, I lower the bike to the ground. I then test the suspension by bouncing it several times while seated in the saddle. If all is well, the job is complete. :)

[SpudRider]

If you remove the rear wheel, you will have easy access to all the bolts, except one. You cannot remove the top, swingarm bolt of the rocker, because it is blocked by the chain slider. Remove the Allen head bolt which holds the chain slider to the bottom of the swingarm, and you can move the chain slider out of the way to remove this bolt from the rocker/knuckle/arm. ;)

When I re-assembled the lower shock linkage, I inserted this bolt from the right side. Therefore, I won't need to mess with the chain slider next time. ;)

[SpudRider]

I have added this thread to the RX3 Tech Sticky, which is pinned to the top of this forum. The link appears under the Maintenance subheading. :)

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=14228

[SpudRider]

I use a sharp pick to remove the dust seals and the free needles from the lower shock bearing, which is at the front of the rocker/knuckle/arm. I purchased the following pick set from Harbor Freight, which comes in handy for many jobs. :)

http://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-pick-and-hook-set-66836.html

You can apply grease to the bearings with your fingers, or small brushes. I usually employ small shop brushes, which I also bought from Harbor Freight. ;)

http://www.harborfreight.com/36-pc-12-in-horsehair-bristle-acid-shop-brushes-61880.html

[Jay In Milpitas]

A most excellent tutorial, Spud! Thanks for doing it.

I'm guessing that although you had all that out, you didn't remove the rear shock to inspect it? I remember that you have expressed discontent with it's performance, and wonder if it's sealed or rebuildable.

[detours]

Fantastic walk through! I'm still well away from 10000 miles, but it's good to know what's coming.

[SpudRider]

A most excellent tutorial, Spud! Thanks for doing it.

I'm guessing that although you had all that out, you didn't remove the rear shock to inspect it? I remember that you have expressed discontent with it's performance, and wonder if it's sealed or rebuildable.

I've been keeping this 'under my hat,' but since you directly asked about the shock absorber, I want to be forthright. ;)

Yes, I did remove the Chinese shock, and installed a Progressive shock absorber which was sent to me for testing. The stock shock has a notch at the bottom of the shock tube, so I guess you could break it apart. :shrug: However, I don't know where you would get the proper parts to rebuild it. ;) Therefore, for all practical purposes, I don't consider the stock shock to be rebuildable. ;)

The Progressive shock absorber is wonderful. It is far superior to the stock shock absorber, and it is completely rebuildable. :tup:

http://i442.photobucket.com/albums/qq146/spudrider/Zongshen%20RX3/GEDC1690_zpsoyp9nz29.jpg (http://s442.photobucket.com/user/spudrider/media/Zongshen%20RX3/GEDC1690_zpsoyp9nz29.jpg.html)

CSC is still testing different springs for the Progressive shock. Also, I think they plan to further test the shock, perhaps taking it on the Barstow/Vegas ride. Therefore, I haven't mentioned the Progressive shock until now, because I didn't want to subject the guys at CSC to a lot of phone calls regarding a product they haven't yet finalized for sale. ;)

[rtking]

Nice Spud! That Progressive shock looks like it has a wider shock body, so the piston has more surface area (better control). Also, there's more usable spring travel since you won't get into spring bind like the more tightly coiled stock spring. Glad to read that it's a superior shock!

One more item to add to my "Christmas want list" for the RX3! :clap:

[SpudRider]

Yes, the Progressive shock is beefier, and it has more travel than the Chinese shock. :tup: Also, rebound damping is superior. Simply put, the Progressive shock is superior in every way to the stock shock absorber. CSC did a very good job developing this aftermarket shock. :)

[rjmorel]

Spud , did you find plenty of grease from the factory in the bearings or was it kind of sparse like some of the Jap bikes come with? I'm wondering if grease zerks could be added to the bolt centers or on the linkage somewhere so we can grease them w/o taking apart?
thanks for excellent write up and tutorial. I have a lowering link on the way and your write up will be a big help. rj

[detours]

Very cool about the progressive shock. That will be on my christmas list if it comes out in time :tup:

[SpudRider]

Spud , did you find plenty of grease from the factory in the bearings or was it kind of sparse like some of the Jap bikes come with? I'm wondering if grease zerks could be added to the bolt centers or on the linkage somewhere so we can grease them w/o taking apart?
thanks for excellent write up and tutorial. I have a lowering link on the way and your write up will be a big help. rj

The grease was sparse, as is typical of many Japanese bikes. ;) It is probably best to grease a new bike, but we always have other issues to deal with, so we delay greasing the suspension. ;) I did not discover any serious damage to the bearings, but the lower shock bearing always takes the greatest abuse. This bearing was fairly dirty, and was showing some wear.

You could add a few grease zerks, but I don't think it's worth the effort. ;) As I said, the lower shock bearing always takes the most abuse, and you definitely cannot add a grease zerk to that bearing. Since you need to remove the shock linkage to service the lower shock bearing, you might as well service the rest of the bearings at the same time. Also, you really need to visually inspect the bearings periodically, and grease zerks tend to lead people into a false sense of security. ;)

[Weldangrind]

That coil rate looks to be far superior.

[Weldangrind]

...grease zerks tend to lead people into a false sense of security. ;)

Agreed. The only real purpose for zerks in an application like that is to ensure water is displaced. They're not a substitute for bearing maintenance.

[SpudRider]

If you inspect, and grease the lower shock linkage on a regular basis, you will greatly prolong the life of the bearings. :) Otherwise, you will need to replace bearings, as shown in the following videos. ;)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kxVVa69Rw78

[SpudRider]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7vFHiunSFXs

[SpudRider]

Needless to say, preventive maintenance is much easier, and less expensive, than replacing worn bearings. ;)

[Jay In Milpitas]

Something to remember in this and other tasks, Heat and Cold are your friends.

Heating the part that the bearing is in can make it easier to remove & install the bearing. If I'm not in a rush, I use an old hair dryer on the high heat setting, with the part in a cardboard box if the weather is cold. About 200F is enough. A propane torch can also be used, but more caution must be exercised.

Cooling the bearings before installation allows them to shrink and thus slide in easier. I sit them on a couple folded paper towel or folded cloth in the kitchen freezer for about 20-30 minutes. When I'm ready to install I gather the paper/cloth towel over the bearing so that the heat of my hand doesn't hasten their warming. Quickly position the bearing to the hole it lives in. In some cases no pressing is necessary, they will just slip in.

Jay
Signature line deficient.

[SpudRider]

Indeed, heat and cold are two of your best friends when installing or removing bearings. :) I always put my wheel bearings in the freezer before I install them in the hub. ;)

[Weldangrind]

I've pulled bearings out of blind holes in the bottom end of motorcycle engines by placing the entire case half in boiling water. In most cases, the bearing simply falls out.