A pop, a rattle and a surprise!

[detours]

I was on a ride last week when I heard a pop and a rattle in the engine. I wasn't far from home, so I turned around and parked the. When I found time to pull things apart, I figured out what happened.

On the intake valve side, the adjuster locknut had come loose. Worse, the foot at the bottom of the valve adjuster had broken off and both of them were bouncing around under the valve cover!

Luckily I was able to fish them both out with a magnet and there doesn't seem to be any other damage.

Apparently, I didn't tighten the locknut enough during my last valve job and it worked itself loose. Then the adjuster backed itself out far enough to pop the foot off.

[detours]

Anyway, I called Gerry today and asked him how to repair it. I was worried I might have to remove the engine and take off the top end to take off the valve rocker ... which kind of scares me!

Luckily, he tried out a few ideas on his bench engine and gave me a workaround.

The valve adjuster is actually two parts: a threaded bolt and a foot, which fit together like a ball and socket. Gerry is going to send me the adjustment screw and foot separated (at no charge ... thanks CSC!). I'll screw in the adjuster and hold the foot in place until it pops in. Then I'll adjust the valves like normal, and I'll be back on the road.

[SpudRider]

Thanks for posting the warning, amigo. :) We should always make sure to tighten the nut on the valve tappet. ;) I'm glad your engine didn't sustain any more damage. :tup:

Also, thanks for letting us know about the design of the tappet, and the usual, excellent customer service from CSC. :tup:

[Jay In Milpitas]

Good info Detours, thanks for sharing.

[Weldangrind]

Gerry is going to send me the adjustment screw and foot separated (at no charge ... thanks CSC!).

CSC has earned every future sale with awesome service like that!

[detours]

Yeah, definitely double-check the lock nut. I'm sure I tightened it, but obviously not enough.

CSC offers really great service. Gerry spent time on the phone with me making sure he understood the exact issue. Then we texted lots of pics back and forth and he gave me the procedure and then talked me through it on the phone to make sure everything was clear.

It's a rare shop that cares whether you understand the issue and how to fix it ... then send the part for free even though it was most likely my fault.

[SpudRider]

Amen on all points, mate. :)

[keithmaine]

Yeah, definitely double-check the lock nut. I'm sure I tightened it, but obviously not enough.

CSC offers really great service. Gerry spent time on the phone with me making sure he understood the exact issue. Then we texted lots of pics back and forth and he gave me the procedure and then talked me through it on the phone to make sure everything was clear.

It's a rare shop that cares whether you understand the issue and how to fix it ... then send the part for free even though it was most likely my fault.

Sorry that happened to you glad it all worked out. And it is always good to hear of CSC customer service coming thru time after time.

[Lee R]

Thanks for sharing detours, all of us will probably tighten than locknut a bit more next check!

[keithmaine]

On my Ural I change the nuts to a self locking nuts as a precaution because guys had nuts back off also. Maybe the same is doable on the RX3

[3banger]

Thanks for the update. Glad more damage wasn't done! That part could have bounced down the cam chain path and done a lot more damage. If the lock nut came looses its likely the adjuster backed off until the ball/foot could turned sideways and get knocked off its ball mount. And another fine example of CSC's excellent customer service!

Also this I the first issue I've seen posted to any forum about any internal engine issue at all with the RX3! Well this and my clutch but that was all my fault and at some level a clutch is a wear item.

[DanKearney]

Thanks for that heads-up.

Dan K.

[3banger]

Detours, how many miles since your last valve adjustment?

[Weldangrind]

On my Ural I change the nuts to a self locking nuts as a precaution because guys had nuts back off also. Maybe the same is doable on the RX3

Excellent tip! What type of locking nuts did you use on the Ural? I've thought about that in the past, but wondered if the nylon in a typical Nyloc nut might melt. I also considered a distressed thread nut, like you find in automotive applications. I'm very curious about what worked for you.

[keithmaine]

Excellent tip! What type of locking nuts did you use on the Ural? I've thought about that in the past, but wondered if the nylon in a typical Nyloc nut might melt. I also considered a distressed thread nut, like you find in automotive applications. I'm very curious about what worked for you.

they are nylon and they do not melt, melting point of nylon is in the area of 470F. The Ural is air cooled and the head temps are from 275f-325f. I would assume that the RX3 would be slightly cooler.

I believe they were these

McMasterCarr 90576A116
Zinc-Plated Class 8 Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut, M8x1 Thread Size, 13mm Wide, 8mm High

[detours]

Detours, how many miles since your last valve adjustment?

About 1000 miles. There was no noticeable performance loss while the adjuster was backing out, so I didn't know anything was wrong until the foot popped off and started rattling around.

I did notice I was starting to collect more fuel in the PCV catch tube. But that may have been extra condensation on the cylinder wall from the colder weather. It will be interesting to see if that changes with proper intake valve adjustment.

[willy dog]

it is possible to over tighten the jam nut when you do your valve adj. have not done mine yet only 100 miles, but i imagine not a very large dia. on adj. you want it tight but not strong like bull smart like tractor tight you can do damage by cranking down on nut like it was a large bolt

[Weldangrind]

they are nylon and they do not melt, melting point of nylon is in the area of 470F. The Ural is air cooled and the head temps are from 275f-325f. I would assume that the RX3 would be slightly cooler.

I believe they were these

McMasterCarr 90576A116
Zinc-Plated Class 8 Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut, M8x1 Thread Size, 13mm Wide, 8mm High

:thanks:

[keithmaine]

:thanks:

anytime Weld

[Riceburner]

Yeah, definitely double-check the lock nut. I'm sure I tightened it, but obviously not enough.

CSC offers really great service. Gerry spent time on the phone with me making sure he understood the exact issue. Then we texted lots of pics back and forth and he gave me the procedure and then talked me through it on the phone to make sure everything was clear.

It's a rare shop that cares whether you understand the issue and how to fix it ... then send the part for free even though it was most likely my fault.

From my post on engine problem: "I mentioned to Ryan that I'll probably have to join the group and make raving claims of wonderfulness, speediness and GREATNESS of CSC customer service :lmao: :lmao: :lmao: WAIT, did I just do that???"

My dealer Motorstar didn't have the bearings in stock and could not locate or "order" them. They provide no service and only aggravation. :grr:

[jbfla]

they are nylon and they do not melt, melting point of nylon is in the area of 470F. The Ural is air cooled and the head temps are from 275f-325f. I would assume that the RX3 would be slightly cooler.

I believe they were these

McMasterCarr 90576A116
Zinc-Plated Class 8 Steel Nylon-Insert Locknut, M8x1 Thread Size, 13mm Wide, 8mm High

Hi Keith,

I tried unsuccessfully to find some self locking nuts for my TW200, since I had one unscrew itself.

Any chance that the ones from the Ural will fit.

My TW is in NC, so I can't easily check the size.

EDIT Nevermind, Keith. Found it. M4 fine pitch.

jb