Customizing my Hawk

[pcspecialist]

I cut off the buckles (leaving the loops intact) and drilled some holes in the seat pan to get a Coleman Comfort Ride(TM) Seat Protector to fit like a glove. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JMK7N8
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JMK7N8

http://i63.tinypic.com/vphwev.jpg
http://i67.tinypic.com/ivedtx.jpg
http://i63.tinypic.com/2md1e01.jpg
http://i65.tinypic.com/2duz1mr.jpg
http://i63.tinypic.com/j93our.jpg
http://i64.tinypic.com/5btzk0.jpg

Trunk fit beautifully, just needed some large nuts to raise it enough that I can get the seat on and off and the rear slots had to be filed a little bit to line up with the bolt holes on the Hawk. The trunk is easily removed, just turn the key and press a button. Now I just need a tank bag and some saddle bags.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351721854900

http://i64.tinypic.com/rr3uc8.jpg
http://i64.tinypic.com/15z0bvl.jpg

12" X 3.5" OWNER MANUAL CANISTER
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111693466254

NGK (2202) DPR8EIX-9 Iridium IX Spark Plug
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSGWZC

MSR DR-Z400 shifter (1 inch longer than stock)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WJAVJ4

With the stock carb, I removed the plug over the idle mixture screw and turned it out 1 3/4 turns. I used a center punch to indent and then tap off the tamper proof screws, shimmed up the needle with three #4 washers and replaced the main jet with a large round size 110 (N100.604/110).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171069472877

Replaced the front sprocket with a 17 tooth one. Discovered you can't get the cover back on with the chain on the 17 tooth, have to put the chain on after the cover is installed.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004DNA0KA

[2LZ]

Nice! I have one on my Rhino and love it. It doesn't look like much but after about an hour in the saddle, you realize that you're not sore yet. Well worth the 20 bucks.
Yes, the buckles were in the wrong spot for me too. They are no longer there. I tied them across. My only advice is to let it dry in the hot sun after a wash or you'll definitely get wet.

[pcspecialist]

I'll probably come up with something to put between myself and the Comfort Ride for those days that it got wet. It'll keep your butt dry on a hot sweaty day, but wet when it gets wet. I think it's a good tradeoff.

[paulesmann]

Looks awesome man!! Thank you for the detailed pics!

[w0ss]

Looks sharp. I need to add that canister to my list of mods ;)

[dpl096]

Looks great! I'm anxious for a ride report on the Coleman.

[pcspecialist]

I forgot to mention, I already discovered a weak spot in the fuel line. I tried bending it at the weak spot and it opened right up, doubtful it would have lasted me even 100 miles. I had the exact length of Tygon fuel line that I needed left over from when I replaced the fuel line on my TaoTao scooter.

[paulesmann]

how many inches does the pad add?

[pcspecialist]

how many inches does the pad add?

As many as you put between it and the seat. By itself, a little over 1/2 inch, but, it also helps you maintain a sitting position a little further back without sliding forward adding yet another 1/2 inch.

[pcspecialist]

It does bunch up some in the low spot so possibly close to 3/4 inch there.

[GeneralTso]

Can't wait until I can start doing the fun mods! Looks good, noted the canister for future mod.

[pcspecialist]

Inexpensive AGM battery from Chrome Battery fits really well, just needed some padding hot glued to it to make up the size difference. The YTZ7S-BS is shorter, BUT, a little wider so the plates have more surface area providing higher CCA. The boot actually works when you use it in a top mount configuration so that's what I did.

I've used batteries from Chrome Battery in the past and am very happy with them.

https://www.chromebattery.com/ytz7s-bs-high-performance-power-sports-battery.html

http://i64.tinypic.com/2j3p2me.jpg

[paulesmann]

pcs you're the man!!

[humanbeing]

...fits really well, just needed some padding hot glued to it to make up the size difference. The YTZ7S-BS...

http://i64.tinypic.com/2j3p2me.jpg
L*W*H Shorter (~1") / wider (~5/32") / taller (~5/32")
---
Same seller in different platform = save $ https://www.bonanza.com/listings/YTZ7S-Agm-Battery-For-Yamaha-Ttr-Xt-Wr-Honda-Crf-CBR1000RR-KLX450R-ZX10R-DRZ250/656293663

[Weldangrind]

I have the same seat pad, trunk and manual canister for my Lifan, but I haven't actually installed the pad yet. Good idea about cutting off the buckles.


Is that a Class A motorhome in your first pic?

[pcspecialist]

Is that a Class A motorhome in your first pic?

Yes, about to become my full-time home.

[paulesmann]

Any good ideas for putting something inbetween the pad and seat to add a little seat height? I'm trying to think of something that wouldn't slide around a bunch and would add like an inch or two

[pcspecialist]

I'd try this: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DCVWIRG

[Weldangrind]

Yes, about to become my full-time home.

I admit that I'm quite interested in that lifestyle. The hard part for me would be no shop.

[w0ss]

How did you mount the canister. I can't see any holes that line up in the area of the picture.

[pcspecialist]

How did you mount the canister. I can't see any holes that line up in the area of the picture.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m1RZf6wKEXo

[w0ss]

Thanks, I should have known MotoCheez would have a video.

[pcspecialist]

I forgot to update this when I drained the (factory) motor oil out of the forks and put 170ml (or was it 180ml, I forgot) of Maxima 10w fork oil in each of them. They firmed up nicely and no longer bottom out. Had I know spud recommend Mobile 1 ATF, I probably would have used it instead:

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=10266&highlight=chart&page=2

[pcspecialist]

Rear Brake Light Banjo Bolt Pressure Switch

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251717584893
http://i64.tinypic.com/97760w.jpg

And painted the trunk
http://i68.tinypic.com/2n7f7et.jpg
http://i67.tinypic.com/4hqq8z.jpg

[mjstef]

Rear Brake Light Banjo Bolt Pressure Switch

http://www.ebay.com/itm/251717584893
http://i64.tinypic.com/97760w.jpg



I was just going to ask where to find a brake light switch and the one on the hawk is a cheap POS and mine is now totally broke. Thanks for the link!!

[mjstef]

If you don't need one right away, China is a good option.... http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Hydraulic-Brake-Pressure-Switch-Light-Banjo-Bolt-ATV-Motorcycle-10x1-25mm-/291644691249?hash=item43e760d331:g:77YAAOSwKPNTyI-e&vxp=mtr

[pcspecialist]

Yes, if you don't mind the wait, you can get them for $6.56 less (basically 1/2 price) from China.

[kohburn]

I admit that I'm quite interested in that lifestyle. The hard part for me would be no shop.

toy hauler/shop trailer pulled behind the motorhome

[kohburn]

something like this should do nicely


http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-BAkA6HGC63g/U-rVQzi9jeI/AAAAAAAAHo0/OclT8VQhYJw/s1600/DSCN2697.JPG
https://s-media-cache-ak0.pinimg.com/736x/4d/0c/6b/4d0c6b79968d648a691a7df5ec0d3cd0.jpg

[newrider93]

How hard was it to wire up the rear brake banjo pressure switch?

[pcspecialist]

How hard was it to wire up the rear brake banjo pressure switch?

pull out the two pins from the old switch using anything you can find to depress the little tabs on the pins, insert the pins from the banjo pressure switch, plug the connector back in..... done wired.

[pcspecialist]

45t rear sprocket makes a huge difference, though, it might pair up better with a 16t in the front than the 17t that I used. Paired with the 17t is fine for on the street, but, a little taller than I'd like on the trails.

I'll probably keep the 17t on it most of the time but I have a 16t on it's way for when needed.
45t rear: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0068O5W3M
16t front: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AVVXMW

[hertz9753]

I went 16/44 on the gearing. It works fine for both on and off road.

[pcspecialist]

16/44 is only a torque gain of 3.7%, speed decrease of 3.7% from 17/45. I doubt I'd like it any better on the trails. I think 16/45 (nearly 6% compared to 17/45) is probably the best compromise and with front sprockets being so easy to change, switching between compromise and ideal street gearing is easy.

17/50 is probably the best compromise for anyone spending much time on the trails that wants street ability. I thought it was great on the trails, but, just didn't do it for me on the highway. It was okay, but, had me longing for more.

[pcspecialist]

15/45 is only a 2% increase torque / decrease speed difference from 17/50. Maybe I won't get the 16..... I thought I had ordered it but don't see it under my orders. I liked 17/50 on trails, 15/45 would be nearly identical.

[hertz9753]

I'm only 5'10" and 165 pounds with out my "gear" on. I think I did the diet wrong because I used to be 5"11" and 155 two years ago.


A persons weight is a big factor when choosing the proper gearing.

[pcspecialist]

New instrument cluster installed. I took my time and did some grinding, filing, and spacering the bracket to get it as close to perfect as is possible.

With the tank and panels off, it was a good time to load up every electrical connector with dielectric grease so I did that.

I wish I had known my fuel sender was off, would have been the perfect time to bend the wire to the float. The factory cluster's fuel guage was broken so I had no way of knowing the sender needed tweaking. I'll see what I can do from the filler opening, maybe a dowel with a hook on it and another dowel that has been notched will do the trick.
http://i68.tinypic.com/2072rua.jpg

[pcspecialist]

Sorry I forgot to take photos of the header pipe when it was cut open, I cut a window 1/2" left of the left weld and 1/2" of the right weld, and the bottom cut was 180 degrees of the top cut.

I applied several coats of DEI Hi-Temp Silicone Coating to the header pipe, then I wrapped it with 15' of DEI Black 1" Exhaust Wrap, which I had soaked in water before applying. Drove the bike for about 1/2 hour to dry the wrap and then applied 3 coats of the DEI Hi-Temp Silicone Coating to the wrap.

DEI Hi-Temp Silicone Coating: http://www.ebay.com/itm/221945914241
DEI Black 1" Exhaust Wrap - 15': https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E28EH0

http://i63.tinypic.com/2yzejau.jpg

Here it is after using hose clamps to hold screws to which I screwed on stand-offs to which I attached the factory heat shield.

http://i67.tinypic.com/kcidjl.jpg

http://i65.tinypic.com/xlcz2d.jpg

[pcspecialist]

To keep the chain from rubbing against the tire, take a box knife or razor blade to the ridge.

http://i63.tinypic.com/11uw80j.jpg

Now, instead of pushing the chain towards the tire, it is pushing it away from the tire.

http://i63.tinypic.com/2liykq9.jpg

[pcspecialist]

Once again, I forgot about this thread when I posted my latest update. Anyway, here's the latest:

Wolftrax posted pics of his Hawk with the Laminar LIP H2104C (for the Honda CB500X) on it and it was exactly what I wanted so I decided to purchase and install one.

http://www.laminarlip.com/cb500x.php

It couldn't be more perfect. Because of the way it is curved, it does the job of much taller windscreens. Wind is deflected away from my chest, and, from my neck up, it is no different than without the windscreen. I may even be getting a few more MPH with the Laminar LIP.

http://i63.tinypic.com/14ctdau.jpg
http://i65.tinypic.com/vhvtiu.jpg

You can see why such a short windscreen is as effective as taller ones in this photo:
http://i66.tinypic.com/149ppo1.jpg

[pcspecialist]

You may have noticed that I don't have the stock mirrors. I have these on it and they hold their adjustment, plus, stick out far enough that I can see what is behind me without moving out of the way.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016DRCZ6K

[BlackBike]

You may have noticed that I don't have the stock mirrors. I have these on it and they hold their adjustment, plus, stick out far enough that I can see what is behind me without moving out of the way.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016DRCZ6K

Also have them...Indeed these are great mirrors

Ouch, $84 for wind deflector, they get good money for those! Looks cool I would also choose clear.

[pcspecialist]

Yes, Laminar does charge a lot for the wind deflector, but, I'm sure I would have gone through that much and possibly more trying to find something I like. I was going to start with a cut up plastic garbage can, but, I knew I wouldn't like the height of the thing. I suppose I could have played with a heat gun and possibly got a product I could tolerate.

I doubt I'll ever regret paying $84 + shipping, I will likely never find a more perfect wind deflector for the Hawk.

[pcspecialist]

The handguards are NEXT Components Defender Hand Guards.
http://www.motosport.com/next-components-defender-hand-guards

[2LZ]

The handguards are NEXT Components Defender Hand Guards. They are okay, but, you can probably do better for the price.
http://www.motosport.com/next-components-defender-hand-guards

If you're looking for a light duty handguard that hangs on by a simple mount, I really like these. I have them on everything. Do a good job on brush and bugs, look good and are inexpensive.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LGW4KM/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[pcspecialist]

Pretty much finalized my exhaust mods so I've copied over all the info from another thread. I had already decatitated the exhaust and drilled holes in the muffler, but, didn't notice much of a power gain so I decided to increase the opening on the end of the muffler by replacing the stock insert with a Pro Circuit one (which is a bolt in replacement). It doesn't fall flat on it's face past 6K RPMs like it used to so I'm now shifting at 8K RPM (when trying to get up to speed quickly) and can really feel it pull with EVERY shift. I could do 55MPH comfortably all day long, even sustaining 60MPH is no problem at all if not fighting a wind.

Drilled holes inside muffler with a long bit I have for running cables to reduce back pressure. The plate inside the muffler is further away than the zoom lens make it look like. Probably too many holes, wish I had used the larger insert instead of stock one when I was test driving between hole drilling (there are more than you see in the picture).

http://i68.tinypic.com/1r9flh.jpg

With the insert installed

http://i65.tinypic.com/2lscqie.jpg

Here it is all polished up:

http://i67.tinypic.com/2w6gems.jpg

This is the insert I purchased, but, what I received does not protrude into the muffler so I won't be able to hose-clamp a screen on the inside as I wanted.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001654JK0
don't know why it keeps changing it to amazon.ca (where you can't even get it) here's the url you need: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001654JK0

[pcspecialist]

Polished it up with Wenol and aluminum foil:

http://i67.tinypic.com/1okp5f.jpg

Here's the back side:

http://i66.tinypic.com/25sadq8.jpg

I could possibly screw screen to the inside of the muffler:

http://i68.tinypic.com/1108v1e.jpg

[Weldangrind]

I bet there is a thin piece of stainless tube that would slip right over the existing tube, between the tube and the flange. It could then be welded in place, allowing you to attach screen.

[2LZ]

Maybe I'm missing something here....but why not just cut a round hunk of screen the same size as your muffler and sandwich it between the nozzle and the muffler on the three mounting screws?

I should have probably read back further..... Apologies if I missed something.

[pcspecialist]

why not just cut a round hunk of screen the same size as your muffler and sandwich it between the nozzle and the muffler on the three mounting screws
for the same reason filters for garden hoses and washing machine hoses are not flat, but, instead are dome shaped..... flat would restrict air flow. Need more surface area.

[2LZ]

for the same reason filters for garden hoses and washing machine hoses are not flat, but, instead are dome shaped..... flat would restrict air flow. Need more surface area.

Understood....but is there anything preventing someone from forming a dome? Screen bends. Just cut a larger disk, make the dome, sandwich it together, then trim off the excess?
Kind of like a sombrero?

Just thoughts is all......... It looks like something simple has to be workable.

[pcspecialist]

I think it would be difficult to get a seal..... maybe with a gasket on either side of the screen.

[Weldangrind]

I think it would be difficult to get a seal..... maybe with a gasket on either side of the screen.

Or a flange cut from steel.

[paulesmann]

Man I haven't been on for a minute. Your hawk is looking SICK man!!

[kohburn]

it would be getto as fk but you could cut a tin can and roll it to the right size you jam between the pipe and flange as a pipe extension, then wire tie a screen cone onto that.


not sure how hot that exhaust tip gets but maybe could use some high temp solder to hold it in place.

[pcspecialist]

Man I haven't been on for a minute.
We should do Larch Mountain this weekend

[MDStroup]

Your hawk looks awesome. Can we get an updated full bike picture?

[pcspecialist]

I've posted a bunch of pictures of it on facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10206531901200162.1073741846.1349642813&type=1&l=db3d5e2b09

[MDStroup]

I've posted a bunch of pictures of it on facebook:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10206531901200162.1073741846.1349642813&type=1&l=db3d5e2b09

Thank you for the link. The bike looks great! I hope you get many years of enjoyment out of her.

[hertz9753]

pc doesn't want to be my friend on FB. Maybe the Michael thing confused him?

[MDStroup]

pc doesn't want to be my friend on FB. Maybe the Michael thing confused him?

What?

[pcspecialist]

I get a lot of friend requests, yours was buried in a bunch of others.

[LunaTech]

I get a lot of friend requests, yours was buried in a bunch of others.

Great pics of the bike. I just sent you a friend request also. My FB pic is the same as my avatar here.

Jeff

[BlackBike]

What good are friends? Do we get coupons for the Outback Steak House?

[hertz9753]

What good are friends? Do we get coupons for the Outback Steak House?

Are you giving out coupons to your backyard?

[pcspecialist]

I just discovered that I never updated this thread with photos of the new side covers I got from CSC. My Hawk is a little less green now and the black of the tank extends into the panels. The two pieces were not meant to be the same color, that's why the larger piece has a window slot revealing the smaller piece.

http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/TT250-OEM-LEFT-SIDE-CAP-PEARL-BLACK-p/zt30-103.htm

http://i67.tinypic.com/5n6hll.jpg

http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/TT250-OEM-RIGHT-SIDE-CAP-BLACK-p/zt30-109.htm

http://i68.tinypic.com/106gch0.jpg

[pcspecialist]

I previously posted about this, but, it belongs in this thread. On the left is the "fuel sensor" I got from CSC and on the right is the one that came with my Hawk. Is it any wonder the factory sensor was registering empty 1/2 tank and below? It was too short to get anywhere near the bottom of the tank. BTW, the factory one (on the right) originally had the bend next to the float at a 90 degree angle but I had corrected that shortly after getting the Hawk. The CSC one on the left shipped as you see it.

http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/TT250-OEM-FUEL-SENSOR-p/zt8-113.htm

http://i68.tinypic.com/24xnvnt.jpg

[jet321]

Where did you get your hand guards? I got some but one has already broke due to cheap plastic.

[pcspecialist]

Where did you get your hand guards?

#44 (on page 3) in this thread

[pcspecialist]

Topeak Mountain Morph Bike Pump
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FI6XJE

http://i67.tinypic.com/n3qb2c.jpg

[pcspecialist]

Better mirrors (in case you missed my comment about them earlier in this thread):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B016DRCZ6K

Cruise control (an o-ring):
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BQ1BL46

Handle Bar Ends Grips Heavy Weight:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/172090290044

Engaged:

http://i68.tinypic.com/242a1sp.jpg

Disengaged:

http://i64.tinypic.com/xd9v15.jpg

[vicbarber]

where on the muffler did u drill the holes?




Pretty much finalized my exhaust mods so I've copied over all the info from another thread. I had already decatitated the exhaust and drilled holes in the muffler, but, didn't notice much of a power gain so I decided to increase the opening on the end of the muffler by replacing the stock insert with a Pro Circuit one (which is a bolt in replacement). It doesn't fall flat on it's face past 6K RPMs like it used to so I'm now shifting at 8K RPM (when trying to get up to speed quickly) and can really feel it pull with EVERY shift. I could do 55MPH comfortably all day long, even sustaining 60MPH is no problem at all if not fighting a wind.

Drilled holes inside muffler with a long bit I have for running cables to reduce back pressure. The plate inside the muffler is further away than the zoom lens make it look like. Probably too many holes, wish I had used the larger insert instead of stock one when I was test driving between hole drilling (there are more than you see in the picture).

http://i68.tinypic.com/1r9flh.jpg

With the insert installed

http://i65.tinypic.com/2lscqie.jpg

Here it is all polished up:

http://i67.tinypic.com/2w6gems.jpg

This is the insert I purchased, but, what I received does not protrude into the muffler so I won't be able to hose-clamp a screen on the inside as I wanted.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001654JK0
don't know why it keeps changing it to amazon.ca (where you can't even get it) here's the url you need: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001654JK0

[Nithious]

Thanks for the idea on the seat cover, I was scratching my head on how to get it to snog in perfect.
7293

[timcosby]

I cut off the buckles (leaving the loops intact) and drilled some holes in the seat pan to get a Coleman Comfort Ride(TM) Seat Protector to fit like a glove. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JMK7N8
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B006JMK7N8

http://i63.tinypic.com/vphwev.jpg
http://i67.tinypic.com/ivedtx.jpg
http://i63.tinypic.com/2md1e01.jpg
http://i65.tinypic.com/2duz1mr.jpg
http://i63.tinypic.com/j93our.jpg
http://i64.tinypic.com/5btzk0.jpg

Trunk fit beautifully, just needed some large nuts to raise it enough that I can get the seat on and off and the rear slots had to be filed a little bit to line up with the bolt holes on the Hawk. The trunk is easily removed, just turn the key and press a button. Now I just need a tank bag and some saddle bags.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351721854900

http://i64.tinypic.com/rr3uc8.jpg
http://i64.tinypic.com/15z0bvl.jpg

12" X 3.5" OWNER MANUAL CANISTER
http://www.ebay.com/itm/111693466254

NGK (2202) DPR8EIX-9 Iridium IX Spark Plug
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CSGWZC

MSR DR-Z400 shifter (1 inch longer than stock)
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000WJAVJ4

With the stock carb, I removed the plug over the idle mixture screw and turned it out 1 3/4 turns. I used a center punch to indent and then tap off the tamper proof screws, shimmed up the needle with three #4 washers and replaced the main jet with a large round size 110 (N100.604/110).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/171069472877

Replaced the front sprocket with a 17 tooth one. Discovered you can't get the cover back on with the chain on the 17 tooth, have to put the chain on after the cover is installed.
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B004DNA0KA

my cover went on with the chain on just had to find that one elusive spot for it to clear everything.

[MDStroup]

I previously posted about this, but, it belongs in this thread. On the left is the "fuel sensor" I got from CSC and on the right is the one that came with my Hawk. Is it any wonder the factory sensor was registering empty 1/2 tank and below? It was too short to get anywhere near the bottom of the tank. BTW, the factory one (on the right) originally had the bend next to the float at a 90 degree angle but I had corrected that shortly after getting the Hawk. The CSC one on the left shipped as you see it.

http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/TT250-OEM-FUEL-SENSOR-p/zt8-113.htm

http://i68.tinypic.com/24xnvnt.jpg
Good find on that. Thanks for the heads up

[pcspecialist]

Fired it up for the first time this year. Runs great, but, I really need a larger battery.

Any suggestions.

[chuck]

Fired it up for the first time this year. Runs great, but, I really need a larger battery.

Any suggestions.
Yuasa 12N5-3B

[pcspecialist]

Turns out it was my CDI, ignition was too far advanced.

[Weldangrind]

Meaning you were using a performance CDI?

[pcspecialist]

yes

[Weldangrind]

Thanks for sharing that. I have a performance CDI on my quad, and that might be why it's so hard to start. Once it's warm it's ok, but getting to that point is a nuisance.

[pcspecialist]

warm or cold it's hard to start because the starter has to fight against combustion taking place before TDC.

[pcspecialist]

I checked the charging voltage and it was too low with the OEM headlight on but perfect with the headlight off. I swapped out the OEM headlight with a 5 COB Led and now the charging voltage is perfect with the headlight on and off.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252471031075

[hertz9753]

I checked the charging voltage and it was too low with the OEM headlight on but perfect with the headlight off. I swapped out the OEM headlight with a 5 COB Led and now the charging voltage is perfect with the headlight on and off.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/252471031075

I have had one of those bulbs in my cart for awhile. Is the light white or blue/white?

[Megadan]

I have had one of those bulbs in my cart for awhile. Is the light white or blue/white?

Mine is white.

[XDoubleXA]

Mine is white.

I have one of these, but have not installed it yet. Are you guys cutting into the wires, or is there a adapter harness for it?

[JerryHawk250]

I have one of these, but have not installed it yet. Are you guys cutting into the wires, or is there a adapter harness for it?Plug and play :tup:

[pcspecialist]

I have had one of those bulbs in my cart for awhile. Is the light white or blue/white?

Noon/Daylight white (slightly bluish). Maybe a tad more bluish than daylight. I prefer a lot more yellowish (more so than tungsten), but, for what I paid, I'm not complaining.

[Megadan]

In the lighting color spectrum, they are in the 5000k to 6000k light range. Mine are spot on for 5000k. Which is pure white - which is that "tad more" bit of bluish color. My only complain is the throw of the light, but it wasn't much better with the H4 style halogen bulb either, which means it's mainly the housing design. Luckily, it's hard to out drive the headlight with these bikes.

[XDoubleXA]

Plug and play :tup:

I see no place to plug and play this........lol

http://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-5-COB-HID-White-Motorcycle-LED-Headlight-Kit-Hi-Lo-Beam-Light-2500LM-25W/252471031075?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

[JerryHawk250]

I see no place to plug and play this........lol

http://www.ebay.com/itm/H4-5-COB-HID-White-Motorcycle-LED-Headlight-Kit-Hi-Lo-Beam-Light-2500LM-25W/252471031075?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649
Sure, you unplug old bulb and plug in new harness. Just have to figure out which adapter ring to use for the light to install the new light. Instructions were useless.

[Megadan]

Instructions were useless.

Useless is an understatement. It's easy enough to figure out though, take the bulb you remove from the headlight, match the adapter ring to it, orient said adapter ring so the concave side matches that same bulb you took out, install adapter ring by lining up a small peg hole on the ring with a little alignment peg on the bulb, push it past that, and twist to lock the ring in place. Just make sure you orient the bulb correctly with the alignment tabs on the adapter ring for the housing so the 3 low beams that fire face up and you are good.

As far as not seeing the plug and play part... You don't see the 3 prong connector on the right side of the picture? That's a classic H4 plug.

[XDoubleXA]

As far as not seeing the plug and play part... You don't see the 3 prong connector on the right side of the picture? That's a classic H4 plug.[/QUOTE]

yeah, i really cant find it. my other headlight plug in the harness is different:hmm:

[XDoubleXA]

As far as not seeing the plug and play part... You don't see the 3 prong connector on the right side of the picture? That's a classic H4 plug.

yeah, i really cant find it. my other headlight plug in the harness is different:hmm: where do you plug it in the harness at?[/QUOTE]

[JerryHawk250]

As far as not seeing the plug and play part... You don't see the 3 prong connector on the right side of the picture? That's a classic H4 plug.

yeah, i really cant find it. my other headlight plug in the harness is different:hmm:[/QUOTE] So your existing headlight bulb doesn't have 3 prongs like the one in the lower right hand corner of the picture?
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/yt8AAOSwqfNXkecK/s-l1600.jpg

[JerryHawk250]

yeah, i really cant find it. my other headlight plug in the harness is different:hmm: where do you plug it in the harness at?[/QUOTE] your existing bulb should be similar to this one.
http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/~lAAAOSwd2xXP9gZ/s-l1600.jpg

[Sir kayakalot]

I'm fighting this light issue right now myself. I feel like an idiot. I can't figure out for the life of me how to get the damn bulb back in. I found the black ring that matches the shape of the old bulb. I can snap it on and twist it and lock it on the new bulb. Am I supposed to have the spring and white plastic piece on too? I've tried it every way I can think of. Help me before I burn the whole SOB to the ground lol!

[Sir kayakalot]

Ok never mind. A miracle happened and I figured it out

[Sir kayakalot]

Now that it's dark outside I went out and did a test run with the new headlight, very impressive. Huge difference compared to the stock bulb which is an absolute joke. Thanks for the link pcspecialist

[XDoubleXA]

Sure, you unplug old bulb and plug in new harness. Just have to figure out which adapter ring to use for the light to install the new light. Instructions were useless.

I got it, I'm retarded.:doh:

[JerryHawk250]

I got it, I'm retarded.:doh: LOL, we all have those moments. Never, ever try working on something after a long days work. I'll get brain lock up and give up then get up the next morning and have the "you dumb ass, why I didn't see that yesterday":doh: moments.

[XDoubleXA]

LOL, we all have those moments. Never, ever try working on something after a long days work. I'll get brain lock up and give up then get up the next morning and have the "you dumb ass, why I didn't see that yesterday":doh: moments.

Exactly what happened. :lmao:

[pcspecialist]

https://scontent.fsnc1-1.fna.fbcdn.net/v/t31.0-8/20414341_10209991958899442_8866470545687995014_o.j pg?oh=56efbd2a58f912ad4d90d562099d490f&oe=5A0190D3

[pcspecialist]

I thought I had posted about the 2009 R1 MOSFET R/R swap in this thread but apparently, I posted about it elsewhere.

I got it installed and it holds the voltage between 14.1v and 14.3v, much better than the OEM's under 13v to a little over 15v.

From the OEM R/R. the black wire is a sensing wire, it isn't used with the MOSFET R/R. Red is +, Green is - and the other two are the stator. I plugged the middle gray connector and hooked up the two stator wires to the remaining gray connector terminals but you can do it in any order you like.

[ben2go]

I thought I had posted about the 2009 R1 MOSFET R/R swap in this thread but apparently, I posted about it elsewhere.

I got it installed and it holds the voltage between 14.1v and 14.3v, much better than the OEM's under 13v to a little over 15v.

From the OEM R/R. the black wire is a sensing wire, it isn't used with the MOSFET R/R. Red is +, Green is - and the other two are the stator. I plugged the middle gray connector and hooked up the two stator wires to the remaining gray connector terminals but you can do it in any order you like.

I do this mod to all the bikes I have if they don't come with a mosfet rectifier. I use the FH012AA or FH020.

[ben2go]

I use the Eastern Beaver kit to make the connections. My R/R came from a Polaris ATV. I never give more than $50 shipped off ebay.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Connectors/R-R_Connectors/r-r_connectors.html


FH dictates that the R/R has mosfet based shunts. SH dictates that the R/R has old standard type shunts
https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4304/35430551254_796e2ca6b8_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4297/36263577275_102c6c8215_c.jpg

https://farm5.staticflickr.com/4309/36263576765_844ae7c33f_c.jpg

[Musictrek]

I previously posted about this, but, it belongs in this thread. On the left is the "fuel sensor" I got from CSC and on the right is the one that came with my Hawk. Is it any wonder the factory sensor was registering empty 1/2 tank and below? It was too short to get anywhere near the bottom of the tank. BTW, the factory one (on the right) originally had the bend next to the float at a 90 degree angle but I had corrected that shortly after getting the Hawk. The CSC one on the left shipped as you see it.

http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/TT250-OEM-FUEL-SENSOR-p/zt8-113.htm

http://i68.tinypic.com/24xnvnt.jpgk

I think i will order it. Im curious of its differences and resistance range of the float as it moves

[Musictrek]

I previously posted about this, but, it belongs in this thread. On the left is the "fuel sensor" I got from CSC and on the right is the one that came with my Hawk. Is it any wonder the factory sensor was registering empty 1/2 tank and below? It was too short to get anywhere near the bottom of the tank. BTW, the factory one (on the right) originally had the bend next to the float at a 90 degree angle but I had corrected that shortly after getting the Hawk. The CSC one on the left shipped as you see it.

http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/TT250-OEM-FUEL-SENSOR-p/zt8-113.htm

http://i68.tinypic.com/24xnvnt.jpg
thank you for showing this. There having a black Friday sale and I got it for about 12 bucks plus shipping. I noticed there taking pre orders now of the 2018 TT

[TheDC]

LOVING your Hawk,OP,and a lot of good info here :D

[Musictrek]

I previously posted about this, but, it belongs in this thread. On the left is the "fuel sensor" I got from CSC and on the right is the one that came with my Hawk. Is it any wonder the factory sensor was registering empty 1/2 tank and below? It was too short to get anywhere near the bottom of the tank. BTW, the factory one (on the right) originally had the bend next to the float at a 90 degree angle but I had corrected that shortly after getting the Hawk. The CSC one on the left shipped as you see it.

http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/TT250-OEM-FUEL-SENSOR-p/zt8-113.htm

http://i68.tinypic.com/24xnvnt.jpg

Hello! I received a new fuel float today and it was longer than my original. Like yours my new one from CSC is longer which does clear the tank better without getting hung up. Thank you for pointing this out. Its been over three years that I had this problem. I took a resistance reading on the new float and the trigger point of one bar and flashing gas pump on the gauge has the float closer to the tab stop. my old one was way off.

[nij_tp]

Hi am I doing something wrong or using the wrong browser or OS? Most of the pictures are a little yellow 'man' telling me to go to tinyurl. I really wanted to see how the OP fitted that cover.

So it would appear the [ics are no longer hosted. I spoke with PCSpecialist but it doesn't have the bike or the pictures anymore. So if anyone had save the pics or did this, and is happy to share the pics I would be appreciative.

Thanks in advance