Hawk Stator testing or upgrading?

[mjstef]

As i posted before, My battery was not charging. I pulled the tank and checked the output of the regulator and nothing. Pulled the plug for the stator and checked all pins using the battery for ground, Nothing. So i pulled the cover off to poke around a little and found nothing amiss. The flywheel has good magnetic pull. Can a stator be tested? Where can i find an stator with higher output? any help would be appreciated as electrical is one of my weaker points......

[w0ss]

I wonder if the tt250 stator would work.

[mjstef]

I wonder if the tt250 stator would work.

Not sure. Also not sure if i tested it properly......

[mjstef]

OK, Got the OHM meter out. The ignition side is Blue/white-Green On the 20K scale it reads .13 OHMS The Yellow and White is the charge circuit. It reads "0" on 20K. Dropping it down to 2000 read "0" and at 200 read 1.0. See pics below. Also checked for shorts to ground and found none. So it seems the stator is bad if I tested it properly. Any thoughts??

[hertz9753]

It's laying on a cement floor. Try putting it on a piece of wood it could be grounding out. I know that I'm not much help but I try.

[mjstef]

It's laying on a cement floor. Try putting it on a piece of wood it could be grounding out. I know that I'm not much help but I try.


Last 3 pics where on a workbench......

['16 TT250]

1 ohm seems too low, but you need the specs for your stator to know for sure. I think I saw it here recently, I believe it was posted by human being.

Edit: having in on the cement, wood, steel, etc. makes no difference.

[humanbeing]

Healthy stator:
[Energy] Source aka exciter... Bl/R >50V | 300-600Ω Bypass it w/ "DC-CDI" is a streetwise fix
[When] Pickup aka trigger... Bu/W >0.5V | 120-180Ω
[To r/r] Yellow /pink /white... Full wave NO continuity to gnd/ <2 ohm btw either wires
===
Typical "8"
http://img.alicdn.com/imgextra/i3/1124898290/TB2XjRLeVXXXXb1XXXXXXXXXXXX_!!1124898290.jpg
http://img.alicdn.com/imgextra/i1/1124898290/TB2SqEEepXXXXatXpXXXXXXXXXX_!!1124898290.jpg

[humanbeing]

Which stator? Ø 88.* or 93mm | Some accepts 93mm w/o modding...
===
There's 150W ALL DC "12" Ø88.* http://gd2.alicdn.com/imgextra/i6/23515000/T2_ZXiXmJXXXXXXXXX_!!23515000.jpg

[mjstef]

So anyone have a link for a replacement? Running into dead ends. Want to get the bike running again....

[ughmas]

maybe this will help you with the resistance testing http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/Articles.asp?ID=304

I don't see why the upgraded tt250 stator wouldn't work, but then again I don't even think they have replacement parts in stock yet. :shrug:

['16 TT250]

maybe this will help you with the resistance testing http://www.cscmotorcycles.com/Articles.asp?ID=304

I don't see why the upgraded tt250 stator wouldn't work, but then again I don't even think they have replacement parts in stock yet. :shrug:

Good find.

From that tutorial: "The next step is to measure the output of the charging system at the crankshaft. We’ll check for AC voltage and resistance. Find the charging circuit harness with the engine running and measure the AC voltage between all three leads. At idle, it should be 12 VDC. With the engine at maximum rpm, it should be 60 VDC."

Note that they state 12 and 60 VDC, those should both read VAC. They don't tell you how it's measured: put one meter lead to ground (clip to the battery - or any clean chassis ground) and touch the other lead to each of the stator wires one at a time. All outputs should read pretty close to each other when tested at the same RPM. This is high voltage and will give you a good tingle if you touch any of the outputs so be careful.

The only reason to upgrade to a higher output stator is if you're adding accessories that will demand more power than the stock one can supply. A higher output stator isn't any more reliable than a low output one. It'll run hotter, put more load on the engine, and the regulator will run hotter too. The TT comes with accessory outputs from the factory so they've upped the stator power to keep up with the potential extra demand.

If you do upgrade the stator you might need to upgrade the regulator and some wiring as well so that everything handles the extra amperage.

How it works: the stator is always putting out max power, it's not directly regulated. The regulator absorbs any extra power not consumed by shunting it to ground, it's basically a controlled short circuit that's wasting any excess current to keep the voltage from going too high. So the engine is always loaded by however many watts the stator can put out and the regulator is always turning any unused power into heat. Not a great way to do it, but it's the norm on bikes. There are new regulators called series regulator that work more efficiently but they're beyond CB budget; $200+ I believe.

[mjstef]

Good find.

From that tutorial: "The next step is to measure the output of the charging system at the crankshaft. We’ll check for AC voltage and resistance. Find the charging circuit harness with the engine running and measure the AC voltage between all three leads. At idle, it should be 12 VDC. With the engine at maximum rpm, it should be 60 VDC."

Note that they state 12 and 60 VDC, those should both read VAC. They don't tell you how it's measured: put one meter lead to ground (clip to the battery - or any clean chassis ground) and touch the other lead to each of the stator wires one at a time. All outputs should read pretty close to each other when tested at the same RPM. This is high voltage and will give you a good tingle if you touch any of the outputs so be careful.

The only reason to upgrade to a higher output stator is if you're adding accessories that will demand more power than the stock one can supply. A higher output stator isn't any more reliable than a low output one. It'll run hotter, put more load on the engine, and the regulator will run hotter too. The TT comes with accessory outputs from the factory so they've upped the stator power to keep up with the potential extra demand.

If you do upgrade the stator you might need to upgrade the regulator and some wiring as well so that everything handles the extra amperage.

How it works: the stator is always putting out max power, it's not directly regulated. The regulator absorbs any extra power not consumed by shunting it to ground, it's basically a controlled short circuit that's wasting any excess current to keep the voltage from going too high. So the engine is always loaded by however many watts the stator can put out and the regulator is always turning any unused power into heat. Not a great way to do it, but it's the norm on bikes. There are new regulators called series regulator that work more efficiently but they're beyond CB budget; $200+ I believe.


Already tested it with it running and had no output at all......

['16 TT250]

A little odd to have decent resistance and no output. Check that the rotor isn't slipping on the shaft before putting a new stator in.

[fitze]

Upgrading NOT recommended as said by '16 TT250. I have purchased engine parts like stators and carburetors on aliexpress.com with no problems yet.

[mjstef]

A little odd to have decent resistance and no output. Check that the rotor isn't slipping on the shaft before putting a new stator in.


It's ONLY got output on the ignition side, NO the charging side....

['16 TT250]

Duh, it runs so obviously the rotor is good-wasn't fully thinking. You did test their output with an AC meter and not DC right?

[Ariel Red Hunter]

If it runs, but won't charge the battery, and the wiring is good, I would suspect the lighting coil. I don't think you can change out only the lighting (battery charging) coil. So, if you've checked out all of the leads, and the grounds are all good, it looks like a stator failure to me. :grr:It's ONLY got output on the ignition side, NO the charging side....

[mjstef]

Damn China bikes!! Put everything back together tonight and low and behold the stator was putting out 30V at idle and 90V at 6,000 RPM! Checked the regulator output ans i was getting 14.3! It works again! I might at a voltmeter just to keep an eye on it......

[hertz9753]

So it was just a bad wire connection?

[mjstef]

So it was just a bad wire connection?


Had to have been!

[BlackBike]

May have been all the jostling around doing your console testing. Wiring :tdown: like that sometimes.

[Weldangrind]

I hate when things fix themselves with no explanation. That said, I usually call it a win and go for a ride.

[BlackBike]

I hate when things fix themselves with no explanation. That said, I usually call it a win and go for a ride.

Agree...It's a win till they come back for their final appearance :hehe:

I have one of my auxiliary lights not work, no trouble since