New Rhino 250 owner/member

[Slaphappy]

Just finished assembling my new Rhino but haven't been able to ride it other than in my yard. Working a lot and waiting on the paperwork to register it.

I have been reading this board for a few weeks and it looks like it is going to be my main source of info on this machine. It already helped knowing what to expect when the pallet arrived. Manual is worthless and the CD isn't even a good table coaster... knowing that before I got it was a good thing because I did some checking around on how to assemble it.

Now I chose this particular brand because the price is ridiculously cheap. My father is getting up there in age and I really wanted to have an ATV so we could ride at our camp before he isn't able to do it anymore. So this thing is going to be a casual rider for me.. 90% of it on seasonal gravel/dirt roads. I may put a hitch on it to tow a small 4x8 utility trailer to use in the yard...maybe. I say I am going to do a lot of things and never do it. We shall see.

I have a question. I have done the break in thing. Changed the oil with 15/40 and put locktite on the bolts I installed.

I'm not concerned with performance or speed right now. I pretty much just want a machine that will ride dependably on dirt roads. What should I do to it? I'm thinking of just getting a new chain for the stock sprockets a more robust battery and riding it until something pops up. Hopefully not 20 miles from home.

At some point I may want to mod it up a little but my mechanical experience/know how is pretty limited and I don't want to experiment on it when it is brand new. Anything need immediate lubing besides the chain?

I found the best way to start it is to use full choke..start it and let it stall and then turn choke off and use the throttle to idle it until it warms up. Once it warms up it actually runs pretty good.

The paperwork that did come with it said the manufacture date was in 2013. Wow..

Thanks to anyone who takes the time to read that.

[Widowmaker]

Welcome to the Rhino Club! I think the 37 tooth rear sprocket is a mod that should be done by any Rhino owner. The stock gear ratio is way to high, unless you just want to go fast.

[Slaphappy]

I may do the sprocket after reading about it and the difference it makes. Speed isn't something I am super worried about so maybe I will do it sooner rather than later. I may also change the carb sooner than I thought.

My concern is taking things apart and taking forever to get it back together right. My dad is already chomping at the bit to plan a ride and I've only had it for a week.

[Slaphappy]

My other motivation is ..every person I told that I bought a Chinese ATV looked at me like I was bananas. My brothers friend even mocked me. He didn't even know there was such a thing. I think he will be surprised when he sees it. It isn't terrible for the price. I just want to make sure it doesn't break down on the first ride..:shrug:

I'm going to maintain this thing like it cost me $400,000.

[Slaphappy]

Welcome to the Rhino Club! I think the 37 tooth rear sprocket is a mod that should be done by any Rhino owner. The stock gear ratio is way to high, unless you just want to go fast.

If I may ask...Did you keep the front sprocket original? And do you remember where you got the 37 tooth sprocket? And what chain did you end up with?

[justjoe001]

I bought this kit on ebay for like $136. Comes with 37 tooth front and 11 tooth rear and 530 chain.


Taotao Rhino 250 200 Front Sprocket 11 Tooth 530 Counter T 11T Kit 37 Tooth Rear

[Slaphappy]

I bought this kit on ebay for like $136. Comes with 37 tooth front and 11 tooth rear and 530 chain.


Taotao Rhino 250 200 Front Sprocket 11 Tooth 530 Counter T 11T Kit 37 Tooth Rear

One stop shopping. Thanks!

[2LZ]

My other motivation is ..every person I told that I bought a Chinese ATV looked at me like I was bananas. My brothers friend even mocked me. He didn't even know there was such a thing. I think he will be surprised when he sees it. It isn't terrible for the price. I just want to make sure it doesn't break down on the first ride..:shrug:

I'm going to maintain this thing like it cost me $400,000.

I maintain all of my rolling stock as you said in your last sentence. Whether it cost me 5.00 or 5000.00, mechanical things need a little love.

You'll get callused to the China Bike doubters and hecklers. Bottom line is, they're either completely ignorant, only trust "their brand" or end up buying one after they see/ride yours. It's always the same after they pull up on it. "This only cost HOW MUCH!?"
My neighbor, who had ZERO trust in Chinese goods, to the point of making fun of my stock, bought a TT250 after he rode my wife's.

[Slaphappy]

I maintain all of my rolling stock as you said in your last sentence. Whether it cost me 5.00 or 5000.00, mechanical things need a little love.

You'll get callused to the China Bike doubters and hecklers. Bottom line is, they're either completely ignorant, only trust "their brand" or end up buying one after they see/ride yours. It's always the same after they pull up on it. "This only cost HOW MUCH!?"
My neighbor, who had ZERO trust in Chinese goods, to the point of making fun of my stock, bought a TT250 after he rode my wife's.

I believe that last part. I know they will change their opinion once they see it...especially after I mod it up a little. I was going to ride this stock for a little bit but after going through some of these threads I don't think I want to wait anymore.

If I had to pick between sprocket/chain mod or new carb what would be better? Open question to anyone actually. I need a new roof this spring and would like to get that out of the way before getting too deep.

[2LZ]

If the carb runs good enough at your elevation, I wouldn't worry about it. If you're not going to be towing or hauling anything slow, the stock gearing should be ok for you.

I drag a cart around the property and never leave first gear so the gearing was important to me. I needed slow speed pulling power more than fun trail riding speed.

Regarding the engine mods, I did them all because for one, I can't leave well-enough-alone ands two, the carb was definitely not working right for me.....plus I had an extra FMF Turbine Core 2 laying around so it was begging to be mounted.

[Slaphappy]

I'm going to copy your hitch design though. I doubt I would ever haul more than a few hundred pounds with it. Everything just seems to work so darn good out of the box right now. It's a little cranky until it warms up but so am I.

When things slow down mid summer I know I will get the itch to do something.. especially if I keep reading this board. Thanks for the reply.

[Slaphappy]

Was able to hook up the trailer I use with the lawn tractor to the Rhino. Went around my 4 acres picking up branches that came down in a bad wind storm a few weeks ago. So much faster and easier than using the mower. And more fun.

Then I picked my way through the woods for a bit on a joy ride... even more fun!

I think my favorite thing about this ATV is its simplicity and I can get my hands in there to work on things.

[Darth Racer]

If it all worked good for you the first upgrade I would shoot for is a Mikuni or Mikuni Clone carb... will give your more horsepower and a more responsive engine.

Sounds like you don't need lower torqued sprockets.. the extra oomph from the carb upgrade will just make it all better. If anything you will then have a carb you can open up when things get all gummed up and be able to get it working again.

[Slaphappy]

If it all worked good for you the first upgrade I would shoot for is a Mikuni or Mikuni Clone carb... will give your more horsepower and a more responsive engine.

Sounds like you don't need lower torqued sprockets.. the extra oomph from the carb upgrade will just make it all better. If anything you will then have a carb you can open up when things get all gummed up and be able to get it working again.

Makes sense to me. Fairly cheap too. Have to admit I'm a little intimidated by the tuning part of it. Probably won't be as bad as I am imagining.

Discovered a problem I hadn't thought of until a little while ago. My 15 x 25 foot shed is getting cramped. Snowmobile, tractor, snowblower, tool cart and work bench required me to do chess moves to get the stuff out I wanted to use. Throw the Rhino in there and it has become more of a choreographed dance. Sweating to the oldies kinda thing. Could have worse problems I suppose.

[Swampy]

Time for another shed!

[Slaphappy]

Time for another shed!

I've always dreamed of building a pole barn.

Can anyone tell me if it matters if I use a small round or large round jet in the mikuni?

[Darth Racer]

Honestly when you buy the carb you will be taking it apart. Learn how it is put together.. not hard. You will have a better understanding of it when maintenance time comes or worse you break down when deep in the woods with a carb issue.

30 for the pilot and 115 for the main jet seems to be a good starting point and a workable range. What position you put the clip on the needle is trial an error.

The performance difference you get when it's right is a beautiful thing. If you like your Rhino now you'll love it with a dialed in carb. Mine really woke up with it installed.

Most here will tell you the carb that came with it will only last about one season so replacing the carb is going to happen whether you want to or not most likely.

The battery is one other weak spot that will only last about a season. So be mindful of that too.

[Mudflap]

Curious to know what wears out on your carb?

Honestly when you buy the carb you will be taking it apart. Learn how it is put together.. not hard. You will have a better understanding of it when maintenance time comes or worse you break down when deep in the woods with a carb issue.

30 for the pilot and 115 for the main jet seems to be a good starting point and a workable range. What position you put the clip on the needle is trial an error.

The performance difference you get when it's right is a beautiful thing. If you like your Rhino now you'll love it with a dialed in carb. Mine really woke up with it installed.

Most here will tell you the carb that came with it will only last about one season so replacing the carb is going to happen whether you want to or not most likely.

The battery is one other weak spot that will only last about a season. So be mindful of that too.

[Darth Racer]

Floats get messed up/stuck .. jets get clogged... cables break.. springs break... screws lose their settings/back out... varnish deposits break free or gum things up.

Not much you can do when the stock carb's screw heads are all cut off.

[Mudflap]

A sealed carb is a really dumb idea but 5 minutes with a dremil tool will take care of that. I used to work with a guy who replaced carbs all the time but in my 20+ years as a mechanic I never replaced a single one that wasn't damaged by the owner screwing with it. Never saw one worn out.

[Darth Racer]

Don't know why you are so hung up on words wear and worn.. neither were stated anywhere in this thread.

A season of running ethanol laced fuel though will do it's bit on it.

When all is said and done with the Dremel, you are still stuck with a carb you can't get jets for... hard to identify if you try... no clip adjustment on the needle.

[Slaphappy]

Do you suppose this carbs on here come without the screws cut off?


Have to copy into browser..can't get the link to work..


https://www.vmcchineseparts.com/collections/4-stroke-cable-choke-carburetors/products/chinese-pz30-carburetor-cable-choke-version-12

[Mudflap]

This sentence is why. "Most here will tell you the carb that came with it will only last about one season so replacing the carb is going to happen whether you want to or not most likely."

Maybe the ethanol fuel is different where you live but here in Oregon it doesn't have a big effect on how long the carb lasts. Drain the float bowl before a long period of non use and it'll last 20+ years. For example the carbs on my GL500 are 36 years old, 12 years old on the Zonketa, 10 on the Lifan, and have never run anything but 10% ethanol fuel.

Main jets for the PZ27 are the same as Keihin small round, easily available. Pilot jets can be more of a challenge. Shim under needle clip works fine on the newer carbs without slots.

Don't know why you are so hung up on words wear and worn.. neither were stated anywhere in this thread.

A season of running ethanol laced fuel though will do it's bit on it.

When all is said and done with the Dremel, you are still stuck with a carb you can't get jets for... hard to identify if you try... no clip adjustment on the needle.

[Darth Racer]

You are a mechanic by trade of course all your engines are taken care of properly.

Most here aren't, and many don't. This is the time of year people will start popping up on the forum with carb issues. Could it be the gas from last fall/summer was left in it? Ethanol laced fuel doesn't age well either. Unless you live in Oregon it's a problem everywhere else.

Simply running the engine with the petcock closed until it stops running at the end of the day will do wonders for the lifespan of the carb. Some can't be bothered with that either.

https://68.media.tumblr.com/4eda37c5dab2403b77249a0110dac056/tumblr_ns9rmhX7LS1uxle3jo1_500.gif

[BlackBike]

Darth, please see if you can save that gif in your album so we can all post it at will

I approve!

No horses were harmed in the creation of this or any related posts

[Darth Racer]

Didn't know I had an album here. Not familiar with this forum software. It's there now.