It's here!

[JeremyC]

I ordered a hawk on thursday, and got it today! The crate framework had some damage, but none to the bike. I've been outside since 3pm putting it together, but still not finished. I probably would have been done, but I've also been removing bolts and putting loc-tite on them. I got it off the pallet, but still have the shock bolt and headlight to put on. I'm not in too much of a hurry anyway. :lmao:

[JeremyC]

I also have been gooping up the electrical connectors with dielectric grease as I go, too. The more I do now, the less I do later is the plan.

[Kipper1012]

I also have been gooping up the electrical connectors with dielectric grease as I go, too. The more I do now, the less I do later is the plan.

Congrats on the bike ! And Wise move with the grease

[JeremyC]

is there a certain way the handlebar caps are to be oriented? I noticed that there are dots cast into the tops, but wasn't paying attention to them when I was un-crating it. I put both caps with the dots forward, but want to make sure. There didn't look to be any difference when I was test fitting.

[crose4647]

Great deal, make sure you MCO says motorcycle when getting it titled and registered. Did mine in Salem in Marion county.

[JeremyC]

They're supposedly in the mail, but we shall see. I'll look the paperwork over when it comes in.

[timcosby]

that red is nice!

[JeremyC]

I was actually surprised by the black tank, but it has grown on me. :)

[Sir kayakalot]

You're doing a good job, don't be in any hurry and do it right the 1st time on assembly. It pays off in the long run.

[MOTOXtreme]

Yes dots go toward the front. Doubtful if it makes any difference though.

[Weldangrind]

Yes dots go toward the front. Doubtful if it makes any difference though.

It makes a difference in terms of clamping load. The clamps are supposed to be perfectly mated on one side and have a significant gap on the other. If the clamps are backwards, you'll have a small gap on both sides. With the caps incorrectly oriented, you may not have the clamping pressure that is required to hold the bars.

[dpl096]

Congratulations on the bike Jeremy....have fun! East Central Hellinois here...another inmate:crazy:

[dpl096]

The old saying "An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure" on CBs can't be stated strongly enough. Theres plenty of real life evidence right here on this site that if you take care of these bikes they provide a ton of entertainment and memories.


I also have been gooping up the electrical connectors with dielectric grease as I go, too. The more I do now, the less I do later is the plan.

[JeremyC]

Just a heads up, the header pipe does not like ac stick or mig welding. I had to take it to a welding shop, and they put a new piece of sheet steel around the CAT area, and had to use heli-arc to get that to work. It's thin and very low carbon.A dremel and 1/8" end mill took care of the globs of weld just inside of the mounting flange. So far the rest of the assembly has gone fairly smooth, except for the weld nut that's on the side of the swing arm to bolt on the chain guide (the one that needs a re-design). I took the bolt out, ground back the offending raised area that don't fall in line with the chain, went to put it back on with loctite, and "pop". Thankfully, the steel seems to be pretty good there, and I was able to weld on a new m6 nut. I was bolting it back on with a 1/4" ratchet with my fingertips when it popped. Just something everyone should watch out for...

[JeremyC]

Today, I put on the mikuni knockoff, changed the rear sprocket to 45 tooth, and put on the new unibear chain. If you keep the 15T drive sprocket, a 128 tooth looks like it's a perfect fit. I'll know for sure once I set the wheels on the ground. I think the last thing to do is adjust valves and put the brake pedal return spring on. Oh, and the battery. :lmao:

[RogerWFarrier]

Today, I put on the mikuni knockoff, changed the rear sprocket to 45 tooth, and put on the new unibear chain. If you keep the 15T drive sprocket, a 128 tooth looks like it's a perfect fit. I'll know for sure once I set the wheels on the ground. I think the last thing to do is adjust valves and put the brake pedal return spring on. Oh, and the battery. :lmao:
I'm running 17/45 on my TT 250 and 128 links on the chain is perfect as well.

[Weldangrind]

Just a heads up, the header pipe does not like ac stick or mig welding. I had to take it to a welding shop, and they put a new piece of sheet steel around the CAT area, and had to use heli-arc to get that to work. It's thin and very low carbon.A dremel and 1/8" end mill took care of the globs of weld just inside of the mounting flange. So far the rest of the assembly has gone fairly smooth, except for the weld nut that's on the side of the swing arm to bolt on the chain guide (the one that needs a re-design). I took the bolt out, ground back the offending raised area that don't fall in line with the chain, went to put it back on with loctite, and "pop". Thankfully, the steel seems to be pretty good there, and I was able to weld on a new m6 nut. I was bolting it back on with a 1/4" ratchet with my fingertips when it popped. Just something everyone should watch out for...

What kind of welder are you using?

[JeremyC]

I attempted it with ac stick at low amperage.. wasn't happening, so off it went to the welding shop. He tried his clark mig 1st, no go.
I got the paperwork in the mail today, so I must have been one of the lucky ones (I ordered from that Manny feller). Heading out here in a few to adjust valves, change oil, and a couple other things.

[JeremyC]

It took its first breath! I have to let it cool down and do some minor carb adjustments. I have a slight pop/miss at idle, and it's slightly worse just off idle.. I probably just need to open the fuel mixture screw a touch more. I can just "blip" the throttle and it's very responsive, so I'm surely not off by much.
Still gotta adjust the chain, swap the wires for the front turn signals (might be confusing when the front signal is the opposite of the rear when flashing :lmao: ), adjust the clutch cable at the motor (too hot ATM), and a few little piddly things before the 1st ride!

[2LZ]

I have a slight pop/miss at idle, and it's slightly worse just off idle.. I probably just need to open the fuel mixture screw a touch more. I can just "blip" the throttle and it's very responsive, so I'm surely not off by much.


Run it for a while. Take a few rides. It's mood will get better. Then do some more adjusting.

[JeremyC]

It's done! I rode it off and on for well over an hour. Lots of fun, smiles, and relearning how to ride in this old body LOL! I'm impressed with the torque and power this bike produces!:)

[BlackBike]

It's done! I rode it off and on for well over an hour. Lots of fun, smiles, and relearning how to ride in this old body LOL! I'm impressed with the torque and power this bike produces!:)

After break in you will be amazed how they will handle grades in their powerband...careful out there!

[JerryHawk250]

It's done! I rode it off and on for well over an hour. Lots of fun, smiles, and relearning how to ride in this old body LOL! I'm impressed with the torque and power this bike produces!:) After you hit about 500 miles these bikes really smooth out.

[JeremyC]

After you hit about 500 miles these bikes really smooth out.

I bet I'll hit that before summer's over! :yay: In two days, I've put 32 miles (as per the odometer, so probably closer to 24) on it, so I went ahead and changed the oil. Nothing too surprising, just the usual fine aluminum powder mixed in there. I did start out with fresh Rotella before i ever fired it up for the 1st time.

[JeremyC]

I do want to thank all of you who have made various comments throughout all of the threads on here about what you run for carb jets. I did go ahead and play with the idle mixture screw yesterday, and it only needed another 1/8 to 1/4 turn out to get the popping at idle to go away, and the 120 main along with the needle clip one notch below center seems to be dead on. I'll know more when I run it a while and check the plug.

[JeremyC]

I drained the forks and refilled with dexron VI (it was on the shelf) last night. I drained out 180ML and put the same back in. Should I add more, or does that sound about right? I'm thinking they could hold more, but how much?

[old kid]

I drained the forks and refilled with dexron VI (it was on the shelf) last night. I drained out 180ML and put the same back in. Should I add more, or does that sound about right? I'm thinking they could hold more, but how much?


200 ml's is what i got out of mine, you can adjust that a little depending on your preference just dont put too much in.
whatever they had in min forks looked like burnt motor oil.

[JerryHawk250]

I drained 200ml out and put 210ml in. Made it nice and firm for off road trail riding. Before I changed it the forks would bottom out.

[old kid]

mine were the same way , they would bottom out thats why i changed it, i put in 200 ml of 10wt fork oil and it is good for me,

im not sure how much more you can put in without running the risk of blowing the seals out, i wouldnt go over 20ml just to be safe.

[JeremyC]

200 ml's is what i got out of mine, you can adjust that a little depending on your preference just dont put too much in.
whatever they had in min forks looked like burnt motor oil.

Same here! It was used break-in oil without a doubt. I'll ride it a while before I add more, but it does seem a bit spongy. Another option would be longer spacers to increase the pre-load on the springs, but how much is too much?

[Mojo01]

Just finished putting two Hawks together this week, I also had to swap the front blinkers on the first one. (Seems to work better when front and rear blink together on same side) ;). Did the locktite, had to adjust chain mine were both real tight. I only got 170ml out of all the forks, so that is how much Merc/Dextron I put back in, does seem smooth on a nice road but a little soft for the trail, think I'll add 20ml more to start. Haven't changed the sprockets yet, most our riding is easy trails, is the 15/ 45 (?) or 17/45 still ok for the trail with some single track?
Also surprised they came with DOT tires and black rims, that was nice. I live at 7000' so the carb being lean is very close, just a little tweaking should be all it needs. All in all so far so good!

[Mojo01]

Also changed the oil before first start, put in Rotella 15/40 thought I'd go 75 miles before first oil change. Have 40 miles now on both. Wife is enjoying her new bike, so that makes it fun. Oh did find one spoke on each bike loose, will check them all again soon. Also if I do upgrade sprockets do i look for Honda XR 185 parts if so what years?

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Just finished putting two Hawks together this week, I also had to swap the front blinkers on the first one. (Seems to work better when front and rear blink together on same side) ;). Did the locktite, had to adjust chain mine were both real tight. I only got 170ml out of all the forks, so that is how much Merc/Dextron I put back in, does seem smooth on a nice road but a little soft for the trail, think I'll add 20ml more to start. Haven't changed the sprockets yet, most our riding is easy trails, is the 15/ 45 (?) or 17/45 still ok for the trail with some single track?
Also surprised they came with DOT tires and black rims, that was nice. I live at 7000' so the carb being lean is very close, just a little tweaking should be all it needs. All in all so far so good!Hawks should have 200 cc of oil in them. The amount of oil in the forks affects the springing. More oil increases air pressure as the forks retract, and this affects felt spring pressure....ARH

[JeremyC]

Hawks should have 200 cc of oil in them. The amount of oil in the forks affects the springing. More oil increases air pressure as the forks retract, and this affects felt spring pressure....ARH

Thanks, ARH. I was hoping you'd chime in again. I'll take the caps off and add another 20CCs to each one. :thanks:

I bought an MSR shifter for a DRZ400 last week, but the DRZ400 shifters are for 13MM splined shaft, and ours are 11MM. Just a heads up, because if you search on here long enough, a few posts mentioned that it worked. It does NOT!!!

Today, I got in what was supposed to be the correct MSR shifter, but they sent an IMS Flightline instead. Oh well, I got a good deal on it, considering what they usually charge for an IMS. At least it's the right one this time! :lmao:

I also have a few spokes that don't "ping", and a front wheel with 1/8" of side runout so that's on the list, too.

[pete]

Theres no magic fix for a soft front end... new springs...
If you don't want to buy springs the next best is to
add more pre-load to the springs you have...longer spacers
between the spring & top fork cap...
PVC pluming pipe works fine , easy to find , easy to make,
easy to try diffrent lengths till you get near what you are after...

As for the size of the air cushon at the top of the fork.. changing to size of
it is a tuning tool not a setup tool... as it's effect is so small , it dose have a
greater effect on slower forks with less movement like in a road bike... but still
very small effect...
So it could be worth a try.... I keep forgetting a lot of you fella's buy duel sports
for mainly road use...


...

[Ariel Red Hunter]

Thanks, ARH. I was hoping you'd chime in again. I'll take the caps off and add another 20CCs to each one. :thanks:

I bought an MSR shifter for a DRZ400 last week, but the DRZ400 shifters are for 13MM splined shaft, and ours are 11MM. Just a heads up, because if you search on here long enough, a few posts mentioned that it worked. It does NOT!!!

Today, I got in what was supposed to be the correct MSR shifter, but they sent an IMS Flightline instead. Oh well, I got a good deal on it, considering what they usually charge for an IMS. At least it's the right one this time! :lmao:

I also have a few spokes that don't "ping", and a front wheel with 1/8" of side runout so that's on the list, too.A new bike with 1/8th inch runout? That's a lot. I'd call the people you bought it from and ask them what they intend to do about it...ARH

[JeremyC]

ARH, I thought so too! I added the extra 20CC of oil to the forks, and they're much better! I honestly think they didn't have enough oil to start with, let alone who knows what the viscosity of that swill was. I'm leaving them alone now.. I'm happy with them. Before, they seemed spongy and the rebound was too much.

If anyone tries the IMS flightline shifter, you're going to need a different bolt to tighten it up, because of clearance issues with the chain cover. I used an M6 cap screw, and that gave it the clearance I needed to even get the bolt into the shifter. I had a couple M6 x 1.0, run it down in the shifter, then ground off the excess thread length.

[JeremyC]

Well, I'm embarrassed to tell this story, but here goes... I destroyed the front wheel today. I was in the yard, goosed the throttle through a mud puddle that was starting to dry (soft, yet sticky), the front end came up, feet slipped off the pegs (so at this point I'm at 1/2 throttle or better in 1st), somehow got it set back down and hit the rear brake 5 feet from the side of a 16' car trailer. the rim is now an S shape looking from the front, broke a turn signal, bent its bracket (now straight and painted), and bent 1/3 of the spokes.
The forks are a little out of alignment, but they'll straighten right out. The only damage to me is a sore left hip from where me and Thumper went down, and some damaged pride (and wallet). All I can say is the break-in on the motor is going well... it's already making more power.

I guess a replacement front wheel for the bad runout is out of the question now.. it has so much "runout" that it hits the forks now.

[JeremyC]

I forgot to mention that the new shifter did its job.. no damage to it or the shift shaft.

[JerryHawk250]

New rim and hub $200 Ouch! http://www.therps.net/DB-Hawk.html I think that hurts more than the actual accident. You have to pay attention. We told you to break in the motor not break the bike. lol :p If you do some research you may be able to buy a rim and spokes and relace them.

[JeremyC]

Yeah, rps has them at $200, the dealers show them at $75. I'm not sure what's up with that. I swear, I wasn't into the throttle much, so it took me by surprise.

[MOTOXtreme]

I must say I'm surprised too. You would think it would have held up better. It was basically an unplanned wheelie right? or am I missing something?

[JeremyC]

I must say I'm surprised too. You would think it would have held up better. It was basically an unplanned wheelie right? or am I missing something?

Yes, very much unplanned, in 1st gear, and the hit was at somewhere around 5 mph. No harder than I hit, I was fine and I thought the bike was too, until I stood it up. :hmm:

I'm also wondering if the wheel being bad to begin with didn't have a little to do with the damage. It already had a good bit of runout out of the box (1/8"-3/16"). The place I got it has no front wheels at this time, so I'm on the hunt.

[JeremyC]

The rubber inserts have now been removed from the footpegs. I think that's why my feet slipped off.

[JeremyC]

Huh.. I went out to where the "incident" happened, and there are 2 skid marks in the grass... 1 from the rear wheel where I was standing on the brakes, 1 where the front tire was locked. Problem is, I didn't have the front brakes applied at all! That out of whack front wheel folded up, then locked against the inside of the forks! I've been calling and emailing everywhere, and no front wheels until May 15th. Don at APSC is trying to help me find one that'll fit until then. I'm gonna press this issue as a warranty claim with txps. I had just emailed them the night before this happened to get the ball rolling.
If nothing else, I'll have a spare.

[old kid]

i have turn signals if you need them, i swapped mine out with shorter led ones so i have all 4 stock ones just laying around, let me know

[JeremyC]

i have turn signals if you need them, i swapped mine out with shorter led ones so i have all 4 stock ones just laying around, let me know

Man, I wish I'd seen this a half hour ago... I just bought the set of 4 LED signals on ebay. While you're here (or if anyone else knows), is there a flasher change required to make them work? I know a lot of cars and trucks need a different flasher, or you get the strobe effect LOL!

[old kid]

[QUOTE=JeremyC;253174]Man, I wish I'd seen this a half hour ago... I just bought the set of 4 LED signals on ebay. While you're here (or if anyone else knows), is there a flasher change required to make them work? I know a lot of cars and trucks need a different flasher, or you get the strobe effect LOL![/QUOTE


i got a complete led conversion kit from amazon, i didnt have to change the flashers, im not really sure but i think the turn signals have the resistors built right into them,the whole thing was a simple plug and play,
im sure there is someone here that knows more about how these work than i do,

[timcosby]

Man, I wish I'd seen this a half hour ago... I just bought the set of 4 LED signals on ebay. While you're here (or if anyone else knows), is there a flasher change required to make them work? I know a lot of cars and trucks need a different flasher, or you get the strobe effect LOL!

shipping would probably cost as much as the new set also.
i think the ones i ordered were $9 shipped.

[JeremyC]

These were around $11 shipped and not on a slow boat LOL! At least I'll have something to do I guess.

[JeremyC]

I got a surprise from fedex today. Last time I'd emailed txps, the front wheels weren't expected to arrive until next week, but it came today with no email notification, so it was unexpected. Looks like I have a weekend project! I'll be glad to be riding again.. it's been almost 2 months!

I just checked the spokes.. got a few that are under-tightened, so every one of you guys should be checking spokes right out of the crate. I had a few loose ones on the bike, and now a couple loose ones on the replacement.

[JerryHawk250]

I got a surprise from fedex today. Last time I'd emailed txps, the front wheels weren't expected to arrive until next week, but it came today with no email notification, so it was unexpected. Looks like I have a weekend project! I'll be glad to be riding again.. it's been almost 2 months!

I just checked the spokes.. got a few that are under-tightened, so every one of you guys should be checking spokes right out of the crate. I had a few loose ones on the bike, and now a couple loose ones on the replacement. Good deal :tup: Get her rollin again. Spokes should be check during assembly. I check mine before I take off riding. A quick pinging of the spokes will let you know if they need tightening. Comes from many years of riding. Just don't over tighten them. If you feel uncomfortable with it you can always pick up a spoke torque wrench.

[JeremyC]

Already taken care of. Now, to get all my afternoon running done, so I can get this thing back together.

[JeremyC]

It rides again, but I'm pretty sure both forks are bent, with the left one being the worst one. The point of the fender is off center by about 7/16". I'm just gonna ride the hell out of it and not worry about it until the seals start leaking.

OK question: Someone on here recently swapped out the tree and forks from a honda.. what models and years will fit our bikes? I know where there's an XR250 for sale with no motor for $100. If I knew for sure the tree and forks would swap, I'd look into getting it.

[Weldangrind]

That would depend on the year of XR250. I swapped a 1985 XR250 front end onto Son of Weldangrind's XR200, which is likely to have the same steering neck as a Honda clone China bike. Not a guarantee, mind you.

[jimwildman]

It rides again, but I'm pretty sure both forks are bent, with the left one being the worst one. The point of the fender is off center by about 7/16". I'm just gonna ride the hell out of it and not worry about it until the seals start leaking.

OK question: Someone on here recently swapped out the tree and forks from a honda.. what models and years will fit our bikes? I know where there's an XR250 for sale with no motor for $100. If I knew for sure the tree and forks would swap, I'd look into getting it.


go here http://www.allballsracing.com/index.php/forkconversion

and type in Dirt/ 1992 / Honda /XR200R

you will be presented with a list of bikes, and bearing sets.. those sets will convert the fork&tree from that bike to the hawk's steering column.

There are many possible doner bikes listed... the bearing kit will have the better roller bearings and the supplied races fit right into the hawks stem.

The new bearings will take much more side load.


You still have to be concerned about any offset in the doner tripple tree, or clearance issues encountered as a result of much bigger tubes or wider tripple tree.

It also doesn't account for stem lengh, "I had to thread mine over an inch further down the stem"

That said I used forks from a 1985 xr350, they are 41mm tubes, and the tripple tree is a bit wider "i didnt measure it" , But it barely touches the tank at full turn "on the stops" so i placed a peice of dense foam there and let it bang the tank a few times, plenty of clearance now.

The forks are longer "but that was needed" and you can just leave the extra sticking out the top of the tripple tree if you want it lower. Mine can be extended 1" further in the stem before the limit line so I used most of the forks length..