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Swampy
05-30-2017, 11:09 AM
Morning All,

I have an older 14’ Gregor Aluminum boat that has developed a pinhole leak on the bottom right under one of the bench seats. I use the boat quite a bit and I am looking for any tips or tricks for a repair. Structurally the boat is in good condition, it’s just been well used and I have always believed water should stay on the outside of the boat.

JB Weld? Epoxy? I have seen the “Melt it Bars” and wonder if anyone has any experience with them.

Thanks, Swampy

JerryHawk250
05-30-2017, 11:13 AM
I have used the aluminum welding rods from harbor freight with great success. https://www.harborfreight.com/8-piece-low-temperature-aluminum-welding-rods-44810.html All you need is a propane torch. You can acually weld an aluminum can to practice. I have also use them to repair a broken aluminum prop blade for an old 3hp air cooled outboard.

cheesy
05-30-2017, 12:18 PM
RTV has worked in a pinch. Come to think of it, that repair held for almost 20 years.

old kid
05-30-2017, 12:23 PM
i used flex-seal to seal up my aluminum duck boat, the seam at the transom was leaking.

the stuff does work, i've had it on there for two years now and still holding,

i have found that the brush on type works better


I got it at lowes i think or maybe home depot.

Bruce's
05-30-2017, 02:34 PM
The aluminum solder stuff does work ,but you need a ton of heat on an aluminum boat because the boat becomes a huge heat sink

JerryHawk250
05-30-2017, 02:48 PM
The aluminum solder stuff does work ,but you need a ton of heat on an aluminum boat because the boat becomes a huge heat sink
your correct. You should use MAPP gas for a hotter flame.

2LZ
05-30-2017, 03:57 PM
Come on guys! The answer is obvious! Doesn't one drop of Krazy Glue hold 1000 pounds?????

Happy to be of service, Swampy. You can thank me later. ;-)

pistolclass
05-30-2017, 04:01 PM
Dixie cup. Just bail it out every 10 minutes.

ben2go
05-30-2017, 04:10 PM
Trying to braze an aluminum boat with propane or MAPP gas will cause warping of the hull. Guess who made that mistake. :ohno: If it's a rivet leak and you can get to it, use two hammers to buck it tight. Use one on the outside as an anvil and give the inside a few solid whacks. If it's a split, get it pro welded. Otherwise, you can use 3M 4200 or 5200. Also, check out www.tinboats.net (http://www.tinboats.net) .I was a mod and member over there many years ago.

'16 TT250
06-27-2017, 11:14 PM
JBweld epoxy is good stuff and I've used it a lot, but because it has iron in it it may not be the best for this repair.

The cause and location of the leak would dictate the best repair method. If the leak is because the aluminum is corroded you need to look at stopping that from continuing/spreading, not just stopping the leak. If it's a stress failure issue it needs to be thought long & hard to use the appropriate repair method. If it was an impact puncture in a low stress area then there's a long list of stuff that'll work well.

I realize this is almost a month old; have you repaired it already?

Swampy
07-03-2017, 06:01 PM
JBweld epoxy is good stuff and I've used it a lot, but because it has iron in it it may not be the best for this repair.

The cause and location of the leak would dictate the best repair method. If the leak is because the aluminum is corroded you need to look at stopping that from continuing/spreading, not just stopping the leak. If it's a stress failure issue it needs to be thought long & hard to use the appropriate repair method. If it was an impact puncture in a low stress area then there's a long list of stuff that'll work well.

I realize this is almost a month old; have you repaired it already?

It was a small hole adjacent to a weld for a support piece of aluminum near the bow. Looks like the welder (heat) weakened the area and 35 years later it popped. Went with the JB as the area is under zero stress and am happy to report after two weeks of hard bay work the water is staying where it should.

Thanks for all the advice, even 2LZs little gem.......