Hawk Fuel gauge

[Musictrek]

The pic below shows when the approx. trigger point is when filling tank and indicating full.

[Musictrek]

Did some readjusting of the float on the Hawk gas gauge. It was always going to the 1 bar fuel pump flashing way too early. This was happing on like a half a tank of gas. So, I spent some time tearing into it and figuring out when the trigger point of the 1 bar fuel pump flashing starts with respect to the float position. On mine (which may not be typical on all Hawks) my 1 bar flashing fuel pump on the digital cluster occurs at about 64 ohms. my fuel float rheostat gives allot a dead space from 64 ohms to empty with a ohm reading of about 83 ohms at empty with respect to the float position and how far the wire can travel on the rheostat. So, my goal was to get the float closer down to the bottom of the tank right at the 64 ohm trigger point and still leave some gas in the tank and also of course going to reserve if ever needed. Doing this change did widen the full indication though. Meaning that the readout is a little longer for showing a full tank as the gas is burned up. I'm ok with that. As I stated above, I was going to 1 bar with fuel pump flashing in the cluster way too early with at least a half a tank of gas. The pic below shows when the approx. trigger point is when filling tank and indicating full.

So, for the 3/4 trigger of 3 bars on the cluster the gas is just under the hump

[Musictrek]

So, for the 3/4 trigger of 3 bars on the cluster the gas is just under the hump
For the two bar indicator on the cluster the gas is a little bit higher in the tank and about 62 ohms if I was to read the rheostat at that position.

[Musictrek]

For the two bar indicator on the cluster the gas is a bit lower in the tank and about 62 ohms if I was to read the rheostat at that position.
Did some readjusting of the float on the Hawk gas gauge. It was always going to the 1 bar fuel pump flashing way too early. This was happing on like a half a tank of gas. So, I spent some time tearing into it and figuring out when the trigger point of the 1 bar fuel pump flashing starts with respect to the float position. On mine (which may not be typical on all Hawks) my 1 bar flashing fuel pump on the digital cluster occurs at about 64 ohms. my fuel float rheostat gives allot a dead space from 64 ohms to empty with a ohm reading of about 83 ohms at empty with respect to the float position and how far the wire can travel on the rheostat. So, my goal was to get the float closer down to the bottom of the tank right at the 64 ohm trigger point and still leave some gas in the tank and also of course going to reserve if ever needed. Doing this change did widen the full indication though. Meaning that the readout is a little longer for showing a full tank as the gas is burned up. I'm ok with that. As I stated above, I was going to 1 bar with fuel pump flashing in the cluster way too early with at least a half a tank of gas.
For the one bar fuel pump flashing on the cluster. This will now occur on my tank with this fuel float position. It still leaves me with gas, But its now more of a need to consider finding a gas station.

[Musictrek]

My float triggers a one bar and fuel pump flashing at this float positon. Which is about 64 ohms. I adjusted my wire on the float to set this up. Id say my float has allot of dead space in terms of cluster readout. the changed readout from 3/4 to full is pretty tight. Although the tank is pretty wide at that point.

[Megadan]

My only concern for a fuel gauge is if the 1/4 tank indicator is accurate, but even I would be a little irritated if it read full for so long. By the time it reaches the level you see as full, that's somewhere between 3/4 and 1/2 full. How much bending did you end up doing to get it accurate?

[Musictrek]

My only concern for a fuel gauge is if the 1/4 tank indicator is accurate, but even I would be a little irritated if it read full for so long. By the time it reaches the level you see as full, that's somewhere between 3/4 and 1/2 full. How much bending did you end up doing to get it accurate?
I'm pretty sure my float is just flawed due to the winding wire around the pc board that the metal contactor travels on. The windings are not evenly spaced and leaves allot of room for getting various ohm readouts and different positions on the float travel. when I first got my bike, it never read full on the cluster. I tore into it then to find out that the travel of the metal plate on the wound wire needed to go further to lower the resistance so the gauge would read full. If you noticed on my float, I bent out the stop tabs so my float travel would be more and that also got me the lower resistance value of about 11 ohms so my cluster would read full. That was just luck in doing that. Back then I really didn't try and adjust the float to full to empty with respect to transitions of gas level. On this fix. I made sure that I will get the 1 bar fuel pump flash when the float gets low at the 64 ohms. It took allot of test trys to get it repeatable by bending the wire. The wire didn't have to be bent very much. A little goes a long ways on my setup. if the wires were wound better on the pc board of the float, I could set the float range a little better. I just didn't go that far into it. the transition from 3/4 3 bars to 1/2 two bars will be pretty short I think on my bike. Its all about that resistance on that float. As long as my float is not touching the tank, I'm pretty sure I'll get consistent readings down to the 1 bar flashing pump trigger point and still have gas. What I did notice is that the float has more room at full than down to empty as the tank gets narrow. This thing is touchy.

[Musictrek]

My only concern for a fuel gauge is if the 1/4 tank indicator is accurate, but even I would be a little irritated if it read full for so long. By the time it reaches the level you see as full, that's somewhere between 3/4 and 1/2 full. How much bending did you end up doing to get it accurate?
Maybe I should have tried adjusting the metal tab on the wound wires of the pc board of the float. my float in the pic triggers the 1 bar flashing pump at nearly the middle of the float travel. which means all the travel to the left is only going to show the same info on the cluster. then I probably wouldn't have had to spread out the stops. I bet now that was the problem all along. The back metal contactor tab was never in the right position. It does have some kind of spring to it maybe for adjustment. I need to check my older post here. I think I have a picture of the back of this float.

[Musictrek]

Maybe I should have tried adjusting the metal tab on the wound wires of the pc board of the float. my float in the pic triggers the 1 bar flashing pump at nearly the middle of the float travel. which means all the travel to the left is only going to show the same info on the cluster. then I probably wouldn't have had to spread out the stops. I bet now that was the problem all along. The back metal contactor tab was never in the right position. It does have some kind of spring to it maybe for adjustment. I need to check my older post here. I think I have a picture of the back of this float.
I found my old pic, the metal contactor was pretty much lined up with the wire rod. I'm not sure if I could have done much with that now.
http://www.chinariders.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=9186&stc=1&d=1490834951
Wow, I guess if you compare my old pic to the now adjusted one. I moved it allot.

[pcspecialist]

http://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=230316&postcount=67

[timcosby]

seems like i remember someone bending the ears on the unit to make it read 10 ohm to 90 ohms