Oil Screen/Filter for 196FML engine.

[ImEazy]

I know that this was discussed a little over on TT and thought I would add
my $.02. I have the 169FML pushrod engine which came with a manual.
The manual clearly shows the oil screen in the following pic. Parts 21,22,23
and 24.

http://www.eazys.net/GY200/oilscreen.jpg

http://www.eazys.net/GY200/oilscreen2.jpg

It also shows an actual oil filter as well in the following pics. Sorry for the
quality. I know that pullin-gs on TT has this same engine as a back up and
has posted some pics of the engine apart, but never mentioned finding the
oil filter. Has anyone taken thiers apart enough to actually confirm this? I
do know that some of the things in the manual are not accurate, but I
couldn't imagine them listing this if it weren't there.

http://www.eazys.net/GY200/oilfilter.jpg

http://www.eazys.net/GY200/oilfilter2.jpg

http://www.eazys.net/GY200/oilfilter2a.jpg

I would pull mine apart but I'm not absolutely sure where it is located.
As for the manual I was gonna scan it all and put together a pdf but it
is 88 pages and I haven't found the time yet. I have to go to my folks
house to scan it. If I ever do I will post it here for you all.

[frostbite]

Sorry man, but I don't see any oil filter in the pics. I see references to it in the documents but I would be tempted to chalk that up to Engrish (http://www.engrish.com)

[ImEazy]

You could very well be correct. I have looked at the diagram many times
but can't figure out where it may be. I think it is just the oil pump, not a
filter. Then again I could be wrong? :)

[ohbowhntr]

Mine only has the screen in there, no filter, but I have the OHC engine also. I am thinking about experimenting with this next oil change and slipping a liite magnet in the screen to see if it pick up any more shavings. My first two oil changes at 10 and 50 miles had small amounts of shavings, but my last 2 didn't. I believe this change I will slide a small magnet into the screen. Likely tomorrow.

[bfe71730]

Mine has the screen also, it's the same as my Honda ATC200x. The oil plug, spring and it's location are all the same. I'm pretty sure that the screen is as close to a filter as ur gonna get. I have the same manual, only mine is a pushrod engine.

[ohbowhntr]

Changed my mind, I forgot how small that little screen really was. I changed the oil today, it was pretty clean, and re-filled w/ Castrol 20w-50, and then punched a hole in the exhaust to see what type of performance/sound difference I'd get. Not really much difference, maybe a little throatier, but not much. I'd still like to put a FMF Universal Muffler on it, but I will likely wait till next spring if the bike lasts that long.

[dlunt]

Changed the oil today for the first time. What kind of oil is in these from the factory? It smelled weird. I noticed it when I first got the bike. It reminded me of cooking oil. A sweet smell.

Thanks for the tip on where the screen was. I cleaned it and there were a few metal shavings and quite a bit of fuzz. It looked like cotton fibers.

I couldn't believe that I had to take off an engine guard to get to the drain plug! It wasn't any big deal just a nuisance. Has anybody cut a hole through their guard to have easy access?

[ImEazy]

I couldn't believe that I had to take off an engine guard to get to the drain plug! It wasn't any big deal just a nuisance. Has anybody cut a hole through their guard to have easy access?

I had to do the same. The hole was off by a few inches. I haven't cut
one yet, but do plan to. Just less hasssle that way. My kids 125's actually
line up.

[bfe71730]

I noticed a pic on one of the yahoo groups that had the oil screen and cover descriptions. This bike also had a separate drain plug. This is another difference in motors, mine only has the screen and cover, no separate drain plug. There is a hole cut out in the center of the skid plate, but for what I don't know. My engine # is KZ169FML, pushrod design. Has anyone else noticed this?

[ImEazy]

I have the 169FML engine as well. It has a drain plug on the bottom
of the engine. Here's a couple pics. You can see how the hole in the
skidplate doesn't line up for draining.

http://www.eazys.net/GY200/drain.jpg

http://www.eazys.net/GY200/drain2.jpg

[bfe71730]

I went ahead and took the plate off the last 2 times I changed the oil, even though it drained out the side, it still made a mess the first time it was changed (picture a shower head). I looked at mine a little closer and there appears to be a place in the engine case where a drain plug could be tapped and installed, reckon why they didn't install one?

[ImEazy]

Man, that's odd. Maybe due to poor quality control. I would probably have
to drill and tap so I could install one. That would definately be a pain to
change the oil.

[Beerslayer]

I was thinking to change my oil for the first time tonight. The drain plug on mine is not lined up with the hole either. It looks like it would be easy to remove though and I am going to pull it off and knock a new hole in it that lines up.

[mdionis]

I noticed on mine that no drain plug is installed. It looks as though one should be on the bike. Don't know if I want to risk drilling and tapping which may cause shavings inside the engine. Where is this screen located, maybe I should look over the parts manual.

Mike

[mdionis]

This may be a stupid question, but like in the previous post I don't have an oil drain screw. How can I successfully drain the oil, what would I need to remove. Where can I get a oil drain screw to put in where it should be?

Thanks,

Mike

[bfe71730]

Look on the bottom left side, there is a cap with a hex-nut head, should be 24mm. This is your drain plug and there is a spring w/the filter inside, the filter looks like a thimble. I take my skid plate off just so the oil will drain freely and won't be dripping everywhere. after all the oil is drained, you might want to hold it over a bit on it's sidestand just to be sure all the old oil is out.

[mdionis]

Thanks for the quick reply and answer. I was getting a bit worried on how I was going to drain the oil. Short of turning the machine upside down. :lol:

Thanks Again,

Mike

Look on the bottom left side, there is a cap with a hex-nut head, should be 24mm. This is your drain plug and there is a spring w/the filter inside, the filter looks like a thimble. I take my skid plate off just so the oil will drain freely and won't be dripping everywhere. after all the oil is drained, you might want to hold it over a bit on it's sidestand just to be sure all the old oil is out.

[ImEazy]

This may be a stupid question, but like in the previous post I don't have an oil drain screw. How can I successfully drain the oil, what would I need to remove. Where can I get a oil drain screw to put in where it should be?

Thanks,

Mike

You can get one at your local auto parts store. I seen them at Advance
auto parts for about $3 or $4. They were magnetic as well. The drain
plug that came in mine is magnetic also. It had a bunch of small particles
of metal on it as did both of my kids 125's as well. I changed the oil
before ever running them.

[fratermus]

Mine only has the screen in there, no filter, but I have the OHC engine also. I am thinking about experimenting with this next oil change and slipping a liite magnet in the screen to see if it pick up any more shavings.

Anyhow know if any of the Honda 200 magnetic drainplugs fit the Chinese 200s?

[RookieBiker]

I have the 169FML engine as well. It has a drain plug on the bottom
of the engine. Here's a couple pics. You can see how the hole in the
skidplate doesn't line up for draining.

http://www.eazys.net/GY200/drain.jpg

http://www.eazys.net/GY200/drain2.jpg

On My 150 Maxfine the manual indicates the larger side bolt shown in your photo, that contains the screen, is the drain. I have been changing my oil through there. Is that not right? Seems like all the oil comes out just fine as the bike leans that way and it actually becomes about the lowest point.

[Beerslayer]

If your MaxFine has a drain plug you might be better off to use it. There is probably a little well on the bottom where the plug is that will tend to collect the little metal particles from the breakin period. When you shut down the motor, the particles in suspension will accumulate on the bottom of the crankcase. While you can drain out most of the oil by removing the filter cap on the side, it looked to me like there would still be a little oil left in the bottom of the crankcase.

I had to remove my skid plate to get to the drain plug the first time I changed my oil. While I had the skid plate off I cut a bigger hole in it so I could get to the plug.

Try pulling your skid plate off and see if there is a plug in the bottom of the motor. It looks like a bolt head sticking down there.

If indeed there is no drain plug, then you are limited to using the filter cap to drain the oil. If you drain it immediately after riding, most of the particulates will still be suspended in the oil and will come out with it.

Good luck!

[RookieBiker]

If your MaxFine has a drain plug you might be better off to use it. There is probably a little well on the bottom where the plug is that will tend to collect the little metal particles from the breakin period. When you shut down the motor, the particles in suspension will accumulate on the bottom of the crankcase. While you can drain out most of the oil by removing the filter cap on the side, it looked to me like there would still be a little oil left in the bottom of the crankcase.

I had to remove my skid plate to get to the drain plug the first time I changed my oil. While I had the skid plate off I cut a bigger hole in it so I could get to the plug.

Try pulling your skid plate off and see if there is a plug in the bottom of the motor. It looks like a bolt head sticking down there.

If indeed there is no drain plug, then you are limited to using the filter cap to drain the oil. If you drain it immediately after riding, most of the particulates will still be suspended in the oil and will come out with it.

Good luck!

Thanks - I will check it and see if there is another drain on the bootom. That all makes sense - just never looked underneath since it was marked in the manual as the drain plug.

[RookieBiker]

Well no drain on the bottom of the 150 and the fiter cap and outlet are actually forming a small dip at the bottom of the engine which makes it the absolte lowest spot so I guess for this engine the filter cap is the drain.

[ImEazy]

You can get one at your local auto parts store. I seen them at Advance
auto parts for about $3 or $4. They were magnetic as well. The drain
plug that came in mine is magnetic also. It had a bunch of small particles
of metal on it as did both of my kids 125's as well. I changed the oil
before ever running them.

Well I took and drained the oil once again today. I wanted to take the
drain plug to the parts store to see if I could get a magnetic one. Well
they only had M12 x 1.25 and M12 x 1.75 ones that wouldn't work. The
one outta my GY is M12 x 1.50. So I got on the web and found one that
I may invest in once I have the funds. Unfortunately they are a little
more than a few dollars. Almost $20 to be exact. A couple links that I
found.

Zip Ty Racing.
http://www.ziptyracing.com/products/product_detail.aspx?id=MTA1Mw==

Dual Star. This is the one I want.
http://www.dual-star.com/index2/Brand/Kawasaki/KLR%20650%20Magnetic%20Drain%20Plug.htm

Some reading from a KLR650 site...

What size is the oil plug?
The oil plug thread is M12 x 1.50. Moose makes a magnetic drain plug (p/n M0103), and Dual Star makes a low-profile one. (You can also knock some of the hex off of the Moose plug with a lathe or grinder.) Cutting down the drain plug is a good idea for off-roading, as it can stick out past the skid plate. One Moose adopter reported having to run a thread die over the plug to get an easy fit into the drain hole. A further option is Honda p/n 92800-12000.

Could this be the same Honda part number as the XR200? After a google
and ebay search I came up emty handed. Hope this helps...

[DeethDaa]

Imeazy,

There are two oil filters on these engines, as ther are on the Hondas. One is the wire mesh located on the lower left hand side (altenator side). The other is a rotor type affair, which is bolted onto the crank on the right side of the engine (clutch side). The oil is passed into this filter from an oilway in the clutch cover. As it is mounted on the crankshaft this filter is rotating at engine rpm, and so works as a centrafuge. On these engines you will need to remove the clutch cover to gain access to it. Hope this helps.

I have labeled pullin-gs's photos below:

http://www.nalyd.freeserve.co.uk/GY200/mm8.JPG

http://www.nalyd.freeserve.co.uk/GY200/mm6.JPG

[ImEazy]

Thanks for the info. That's what I was wondering from the pic in the manual. Does the internal filter need to be cleaned as often as the screen? I just changed the oil the other day and the screen was comepletely clean, no metal shavings at all. I have no idea as to how many miles are on this thing. Still working to afford a speedo cable. laughs.

[DeethDaa]

ImEazy,

I have owned three small bore SOHC Honda engines (CB100N CB125 XL125) when I was in in my teens. I only cleaned these filters when I had cause to remove the clutch cover. I never owned them for any length of time. I also owned a CB500T (inline twin) which also had the same type of filter. However there was a cover on the clutch casing which allowed you access tho the filter without having to remove the entire clutch cover. Initially when I owned this bike, I would clean it every oil change. But due to the the hassle and small amount of debri, I eventually did it about twice a year.

I've also owned British bike which used this principle. However they used one of the crank webs as the centifuge. There was a large blanking screw which you could remove to clean out the web. However the crank had to be removed from the bike to do this (complete engine dismantle) therefore it was not what you would call routine maintainance.

I've recently bought a GY200, which uses the OHC Honda clone engine. I personally intend to make this an annual task. I don't recall ever seeing a time/milage scale in any manual for this. If anyone knows different, I would be interested to hear.

[ImEazy]

I've recently bought a GY200, which uses the OHC Honda clone engine. I personally intend to make this an annual task. I don't recall ever seeing a time/milage scale in any manual for this. If anyone knows different, I would be interested to hear.

I was thinking about once a year as well. Depends on what I have to do for replacement gaskets. I'll get to it eventually. I did do a web search to find out about this type of filter, but don't remember reading about any time frame. If I can find the time I'll look again and let you know. Thanks again.

[CathastrophiX]

Oil plug M12x1,5 with magnet SEK89=$12

http://www.jofrab.se/commercePortal/product.asp?PageNo=PRODUCTCARD&Catalog=JOfrab&ProductId=46-51-105&rubrik=cro18Universaldelar&sk=&altrubrik=&fromSearch=yes

[ImEazy]

Thanks for the link CathastrophiX. I tried to view the site three different times, but it wouldn't load comepletely? I'll probably just go with the one I mentioned earlier as this looks to be in Sweden. Shipping may be more than it's worth. I have to get a job before I can really afford anymore anyhow. Still trying to get a speedo cable. Laughs...

[BradleyHindman]

I am having trouble finding a matching voltage regulator for my cheetah 200. my motor number is kz169fml i ordered one from buyatvsonline.com that was supposed to be a perfect match but it wasnt. The wires dont match up on any of the others i found and until i replace it my lights and horn dont work. Any tips? and also I cant find a vin plate, just the motor number. Is it possible it was never titled?