Is the Hawk Chinese Junk After all?

[davisbm2]

So I have a Magician, not a Hawk. But the engines are essentially the same.

I took it on a 100 mile ride and the little thing rattles so much at high speed the exhaust stud broke off, leaving half of the shaft in the head.

Now if the metal is that soft, should we not be concerned about all the internal bits, gaskets, and everything else? I thought these were for 3rd world countries but it can't take paved roads?

Anywho the bike is 6 months old and the engine is under warranty with TX Powesports. Do I have any chance of them honoring a warranty claim?

[ben2go]

The reason it vibrates and rattles is because the engine isn't in a good state of tune. If the carb hasn't been tuned, it causes excess exhaust heat which can cause the header studs to overheat and become brittle. It is a common theme, even on the Hawks and other bikes with the same engine. With the engine being out of tune, I would be concerned about the exhaust valve dropping it's head into the cylinder and wrecking the engine. That's another common thing I have seen around the internets. This stuff is why a lot of members completely rework their bikes before they even ride them. The manufacturers make them lean to get them here. The owners tune them to get the reliability and power back.

[JerryHawk250]

The reason it vibrates and rattles is because the engine isn't in a good state of tune. If the carb hasn't been tuned, it causes excess exhaust heat which can cause the header studs to overheat and become brittle. It is a common theme, even on the Hawks and other bikes with the same engine. With the engine being out of tune, I would be concerned about the exhaust valve dropping it's head into the cylinder and wrecking the engine. That's another common thing I have seen around the internets. This stuff is why a lot of members completely rework their bikes before they even ride them. The manufacturers make them lean to get them here. The owners tune them to get the reliability and power back.

What he said ^^^^ I have over 4500 miles on my Hawk. Before tuning and broke in the engine ran rough. After tuning and some miles on it she runs smooth. Never had a bolt break so far.

[davisbm2]

I have spent DAYS dialing this engine in. Multiple Jet swaps to get the plug looking just right, and of course adjusted the valves when I got it and at 500 miles.

I have had multiple screws crack on this bike, not just ones contacting heat. I'm worried the frame will be next.

Again, I don't ride off-road, the bike rattles at high speed not due to carb adjustments, but because it uses old, unbalanced engine technology.

That being said I have a Magician, maybe everything on it is a step below the Hawk in quality? I doubt it. I want to believe in Chinese bikes but I think it would be unwise to not acknowledge potentially massive QC engine failures even on a perfectly maintained machine.

Am I totally wrong?

[JerryHawk250]

The engines are the same and the Hawk engine and seem to be a solid build. As far as frame quality, from what some other Magician owners have posted the frame quality is not quite up to par and have failed.
Check your engine mount bolts to make sure they are torqued down and that none of the mounting brackets are broke or cracked.

[Red Hawk]

^^^
They are right !!! The exhaust studs fracture because they heat cycle too many times so You'll have to dump the cat. You really need to port the head. The factory carb can't be tuned finally enough with the jet selection so it's got to go, buy a replacement. Parts are laughable cheap. I paid more for a single brake lever 20yrs ago the the Whole assembly costs now.
My bro is fixing his 96 XR, just to marginally run he's 1-1/2 the cost of my hawk.... To trail ride.

Some of the hardware can and needs to be upgraded. Hey it's a bike built almost entirely of aftermarket sub components. So if you find shortcomings fix it.

If you want plug-and-play plop the cash down and buy a Jap bike. OR save 4K-6k and wrench it your self. When your done you will know the bike well. What better to do in the winter break.

Searously port the head and dump the cat.

[DualSport]

I got a magician from the most positive-reviewed RPS dealer(Q9Powersports) two months ago and it's still sitting because they sent me a used one with a damaged engine.. They out right refused to replace the engine or any of the parts.. No mechanic from shady craigslist services to high end dealerships will touch it for any amount of money....... If you try any legal move on them you'll end up filing against a Chinese company and it'll never go anywhere..

Tip: Don't get it thinking you'll get years out of it without replacing primary parts and don't try to commute with it without a budget to fill TXPowersports pockets for prices that are a large fraction of what you paid for the whole bike.. This is why all the dealers keep playing shadow games with their names, so they can out run bad reputations from not doing warranty claims and even sending DOA products..

[jimwildman]

Are they junk, Yes! but by what standard?

My opinion is they are not well engineered, and have many shortcuts, compromises in the design. My buddy bought a Magician for his girl to cruise around on. Its fine for that. I was surprised to see the lower cradle unbolts from the frame. Again its fine for. beginner to cruise the trails on. Better than a grown up learning on a pitbike in my opinion as it fits her frame.

If you follow my posts you will see what has to be done to make a hawk into a bike that can take whatever abuse I dish out.

I a nutshell.. The frame isnt bad, infact surprisingly strong.


No excuses for the bike. except for well it was cheap after all.

[DualSport]

By Shenzhen standards they are above average. I've been getting Chinese stuff since it first hit the South East in the early two-thousands, and the RPS dual sports are no worse than the best GY6 scooter I ever had..

Just don't try to use it like you would a Japanese or EU bike for things like commutes..

We should still hold both dealers and RPS to their warranty selling points though.. Going through a batch of bad $500.00 engines will put you past the cost of a good Japanese dual sport in a very short time.. You're not even suppose to have to buy one a warranty is in the cost at all dealers..

[bogieboy]

*snip*

Just don't try to use it like you would a Japanese or EU bike for things like commutes..

*snip*

i disagree... i commuted all summer 70mi a day on my Roketa....its essentially the same bike as a hawk/magician/etc... put almost 7000 miles on it.... had a few bolts back out (no biggie, im a mechanic and have craploads of spares) worst i had happen was i tossed a masterlink on the chain... my fault for letting the chain get too loose though... popped off the rear sprocket, shed the lock clip against the swingarm and launched it who know where.... LOL now i carry 3 masterlinks in my backpack when i ride... LOL live and learn...

[NzBrakelathes]

So I have a Magician, not a Hawk. But the engines are essentially the same.

I took it on a 100 mile ride and the little thing rattles so much at high speed the exhaust stud broke off, leaving half of the shaft in the head.

Now if the metal is that soft, should we not be concerned about all the internal bits, gaskets, and everything else? I thought these were for 3rd world countries but it can't take paved roads?

Anywho the bike is 6 months old and the engine is under warranty with TX Powesports. Do I have any chance of them honoring a warranty claim?

Well I was asking my Chongqing wholesaler about Bashan and the Hawk/Brazilian off road bikes and he said the quality is poor.

Most of the bikes exported that are not sold in China are, I live in China and see loads of Ok/decent and junk stuff

[Alpha Reign]

Just don't try to use it like you would a Japanese or EU bike for things like commutes..


I commuted to school and work everyday with no problems. Unfortunately it's too cold for my liking now. But if you take care of your bike, it will bring you plenty of joy. Working on my bike is a past time that relaxes me.

[Sochin]

I sheared off one of my exhaust studs too, it was the best thing that could happen.
I bought a head from CSC motorcycles for a TT250 which flows MUCH better.
I swapped over the the stock valves with 1200 miles on them, reground them......and it runs like a scolded chimp now.

[culcune]

Bought a used 2009 TMEC enduro in November 2012. Commuted on it daily, year round 33 miles a day until I bought a new TMEC 200 enduro in the spring of 2014. Commuted on it M-F 33 miles a day in the hot spring of southern AZ, through the harsh, hot summer of southern AZ, into fall until a lady ran me off the road into a curb on a two lane left turn. I was in the outer lane, she was in the inner lane--green arrow for us, she turned, and changed lanes, wrecking the bike. Banged parts back into place, and after two months of nursing myself back to health (I worked in a prison as a teacher, and prison rules do not allow one to work with broken bones) continued riding the battered bike daily. I put on 6000 miles a year, so got about 12000 miles out of the new bike, most of them after the accident. Heck, I still have that bike, but minus the wheels/tires, lol. Free for the taking, BTW, but you have to go to Yuma to pick it up--I am not shipping it...

[2LZ]

The exhaust studs should be reset after a number of heat cycles when the bikes are new....and don't bear down on them. They just need to be snug and seated evenly.

I've had a number of CB's over the years and have had great service out of every one of them. "Junk" is a relative term.

[ben2go]

10-12 ft lbs of torque is all that is needed. Locking washers may help hold better. Don't use nyloc nuts. They will melt and cause a mess that is a futile pain in the rear to clean off if the nuts actually come off.

[Ariel Red Hunter]

10-12 ft lbs of torque is all that is needed. Locking washers may help hold better. Don't use nyloc nuts. They will melt and cause a mess that is a futile pain in the rear to clean off if the nuts actually come off.I agree, don't use nyloc nuts. I used to double nut mine, that way you don't have to over torque them...ARH

[davisbm2]

Will a place like AutoZone really have the right studs? I feel like I'm going to bring in the correct stud and they won't have the right length or maybe they don't have metric sizing; and then I'm sure it will $20 a stud.

I feel like AutoZone like stores are good if you have an '89 Silverado, but not so much for Chinese scooters or motorcycles...

[JerryHawk250]

Will a place like AutoZone really have the right studs? I feel like I'm going to bring in the correct stud and they won't have the right length or maybe they don't have metric sizing; and then I'm sure it will $20 a stud.

I feel like AutoZone like stores are good if you have an '89 Silverado, but not so much for Chinese scooters or motorcycles...

Somebody like NAPA Auto Parts or Orielly's might have a wider selection. If you have to drill and tap new holes you can go with a SAE thread if metric is not available.


I just checked my local Orielly's and they carry them.

[Mudflap]

You can always order a stud from a Honda shop if need be.

For removing those studs, rather than trying to drill it out I place a nut over the broken off stud then weld it to the stud with a wire welder. It has worked every time, quick and easy.

[JerryHawk250]

You can always order a stud from a Honda shop if need be.

For removing those studs, rather than trying to drill it out I place a nut over the broken off stud then weld it to the stud with a wire welder. It has worked every time, quick and easy.
I've used that method many times. :tup: Works most the time.

[2LZ]

This begs the question. How come they don't hold head pipes on with a couple of springs anymore? EPA?

[timcosby]

bike or boat....never fails you must fix something at the start of the season/

[Sochin]

I found my exhaust studs at my local Ace hardware store in the.........you guessed it....hardware section of bolts and nuts. You be surprised at what you can find there. They are grade 8 to boot..........to exhaust flange and head will break before the bolt do.

[Megadan]

They are grade 8 to boot..........to exhaust flange and head will break before the bolt do.

Since the studs in question are metric (M8 x 1.25) the equivalent of grade 8 (SAE) would be grade 10.9. :tup:

On my last Hawk and the current one, I upgraded to stainless steel (A2) studs, washers, and nuts. Much like ARH, I use a double nut (main and locking) to secure the head pipe. I have never had one come loose or back out. The mid pipe mount is also crucial to prevent stud breakage (the one on the frame under the seat area). If that is loose and allows the pipe to vibrate it will put a lot of stress on the studs and increase the chance of, or lead up to, failures. I put two large flat washers on each side of the rubber in order to tighten it down enough without completely destroying the rubber in the process.

[zendick]

I have over 3000 miles (not kms) on my magician, lost a couple screws/nuts due to vibration unscrewing but no breaks no fractures.

I beat on this bike, I get a solid 3' of air over railroad tracks and ride the speed humps like mougles.

I weight 200lbs

[davisbm2]

So I had some luck, kinda.. I bought left handed bits and drilled slowly, stepping the size as I went. Never got the stud to back out, but I did remove material down so far as to start exposing the top of the threads. So I took a metric tap and ran it into the hole, sort of cutting out what was left of the screw.

So I bought new studs at NAPA, added some blue loctite, and installed. I’d say there is a thread engagement of about 60%, hopefully enough to get me another 1000 Miles if I’m careful. No 65mph 100 mile trips anymore... I’m sad about that. But I did take the double nut method which I would recommend doing to the stock machines as part of the setup procedure of these bikes.

I had NOT thought about the exhaust split point putting added stress on the studs, but that makes sense. I’m not sure what rubber part is being referred to but I just tighten the heck out of the metal connector and check it once in a while, is there a better way to provide support there?

[Megadan]

So I had some luck, kinda.. I bought left handed bits and drilled slowly, stepping the size as I went. Never got the stud to back out, but I did remove material down so far as to start exposing the top of the threads. So I took a metric tap and ran it into the hole, sort of cutting out what was left of the screw.

So I bought new studs at NAPA, added some blue loctite, and installed. I’d say there is a thread engagement of about 60%, hopefully enough to get me another 1000 Miles if I’m careful. No 65mph 100 mile trips anymore... I’m sad about that. But I did take the double nut method which I would recommend doing to the stock machines as part of the setup procedure of these bikes.

I had NOT thought about the exhaust split point putting added stress on the studs, but that makes sense. I’m not sure what rubber part is being referred to but I just tighten the heck out of the metal connector and check it once in a while, is there a better way to provide support there?

You are referring to the flanged pipe connection. I am talking about the mount to the frame behind that.

[Sochin]

When my studs broke off, the bracket you're talking about Dan.......broke....due to Chinese welding......causing the failure. Now I welded it, time will show if mine is better than Chinese welding? :P