project Blastard (CHINA-BLASTER) IT'S ALIVE

[TeamCheap]

I did it, I went out and bought a nasty almost totally stripped blaster frame and will be using it to house the extra 200gy engine I have here.

http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/9868/dscf0010vn4.jpg
http://img403.imageshack.us/img403/1430/dscf0011kp6.jpg

Virtually nothing will get done on it until the weather breaks but I may get some things for it in the meantime.
Front wheels/tires(so I can roll it out of my way)
gas tank (needed to get engine clearance right)
swingarm bearings/bushings+bolt
handlebars & clamps/bolts

It's rough but I'll have no fear in cutting into it. :lol:

I think the blasters came with a 520 chain so I'll have to switch over to that and the exhaust will be a concern but the electrical and air filter and making engine mounts will be somewhat easy.



No the engine does NOT just slip in right now :cry:

[warrior91]

I'm exited for you. :lol:
Fun project and should be a fun ride.

[TeamCheap]

It will be a fun project but it will also just end up an extra.

I have a tank coming for it and at some point when the weather turns a bit better I"ll get the engine up in there and see if it will clear the tank.

I'll probably let my sister take it out for a ride at some point this summer if I get it done in time.

[katoranger]

It will be a fun project but it will also just end up an extra.

I have a tank coming for it and at some point when the weather turns a bit better I"ll get the engine up in there and see if it will clear the tank.

I'll probably let my sister take it out for a ride at some point this summer if I get it done in time.

I she going to be the test rider? It probably be a good low-cost atv for friends and family.

Allen

[TeamCheap]

No she wont be the crash test dummy, thats what I'm for. :lol:


It will be a very good, low cost ATV.
She has never really ridden a quad before she said which sort of shocked me because she has owned small dirtbikes in the past and has ridden around denver up in the mountains when she lived there.

Actually I'll probably sell it a year or so after it is rideable.

[TeamCheap]

Well I still havent went down and registered this thing but I do have a fuel tank now and a chinese atv exhaust pipe is coming for it.

I am looking for another parts blaster also since it is the cheapest way to get parts rather than 1 by 1 parts.Lucky for me that people dont know how to take care of a 2-stroke.

I took the tank out to the garage friday and was eyeing it up and it doesnt stick down below the top frame rails to much so that engine might fit in there easily.

I cant wait till this snow is gone and I can get out and tinker with this.

It should be fun, a nibble little quad with a torquey 4-stroke and electric start.Reverse would be nice but these are so small and light that I can just yank them around.

I know it doesnt look like much now.

[TeamCheap]

Got the title in the works and hope to have it soon.

I got an exhaust for it that will no doubt need to be reworked since it is for the chinese 200cc quads.

The weather is finally getting better (highs in the 40's :lol: ) but I have so many things to do before I can really get into this thing.I'll be stuffing the engine in the frame before to long.

I have to get the wifes bike ready for summer.
Which means taking the engine out, reworking the engine mount and moving all the electrical mounts and repositioning the battery then install the air filter and pipe and retune.

[Cal25]

I have a friend with a 200 blaster with a bad motor. He is wanting to do basically the same thing you are doing. I think he wants to find a motor with a reverse gear though.

[TeamCheap]

Seen a 200cc 4-stroke, 4 speed+reverse china engine on EBAY.

heres one 200cc (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/New-200cc-Engine-w-Reverse-China-200cc-ATV-China-Pts_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247 QQcategoryZ43977QQihZ004QQitemZ140141198072QQrdZ1Q QsspagenameZWD1V) and another 200cc (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/200CC-200-ENGINE-MOTOR-ATV-QUAD-GO-KART-4SPD-REVERSE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el 1247QQcategoryZ43977QQihZ005QQitemZ150131843942QQr dZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V) and another 200cc (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/200CC-LONCIN-WATER-COOLED-ATV-ENGINE-w-BUILT-IN-REVERSE_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el 1247QQcategoryZ43977QQihZ006QQitemZ160213533965QQr dZ1QQsspagenameZWD1V) and a 250cc (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/250cc-Engine-w-Reverse-Start-Motor-167FMM-China-Pts_W0QQitemZ380002546879QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item3 80002546879&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116) one more 250cc (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/250CC-LIFAN-WATER-COOLED-ATV-ENGINE-w-BUILT-IN-REVERSE_W0QQitemZ150153526542QQcmdZViewItem?hash=i tem150153526542&_trksid=p3286.m20.l1116) so yeah there are engines out there if you friend wants to do one but I think the fuel tank is going to be close.

I'd like that engine except the 4 speed but reverse would be OK but then again reverse is not really needed on the lightweight blasters.
I can yank a blaster around pretty easily.(my sister might not be able to though)

I'm more excited about having electric start and a nice running 4-stroke in a nimble little blaster frame more than anything.

I'm just using the engine that I have handy but I just might be able to do another one since I had someone tell me tonight he has two non-running blasters he wants to sell.(cheap=$400)

This is really looking like an easy project compared to the one I did back in the 90's.
We have so many more parts out there than before.
I already have an exhaust that should be much easier to fit up.
K&N makes an air filter for just about anything now which was one of the problems I had back in the 90's blaster conversion.
The only real problem I see is engine / fuel tank clearance and the wiring but even wiring is no big deal.

I can get a 520 sprocket for the china engine so I can just run stock blaster #520 chain.

[Cal25]

I will have to show hime the engines in the links you provided. He races Dirt track cars and just wants it for a pit bike. I'm sure he can make it fit too. Thanks and keep us up to date on the progress.

[kelly5150]

Umm, Well, how is this project going anyway TeamCheap ????

Is it alive yet ????? Weather is breaking you know ?

Cheers, Kelly5150

[TeamCheap]

Yeah the weather is finally starting to warm up, 50's is a heat wave for me.

I have to go get a parts blaster this weekend and then I have to get to work on the wifes bike then this project will be worked on in full.

It will happen, I did something like this back in the nineties to a blaster but I used a honda 200sx engine but this looks to be even easier to do because there are just more parts out here.

I already have the exaust for it(may need to be modded/gutted) and K&N makes filters for everything now not like back in the nineties.

I'll most likely post the build on my site so at some point when I have a decent update that is where the pics will be.

[kelly5150]

Cool,
hope it all happens soon for ya, and oh yeh, the wife too, so you can have something of hers to ride . :lol:
Were just evil that way !
My Gal has yet to but part one for her SUNL , because I have bought everything I sudgest her to buy before she gets a chance to do it ?
SHe doesn't know it yet, but I just got her a Pipe and Muffler and a Performance CDI last night off E-Bay too . Since i have the other race bike , I want hers to be a clone of my SUNL so we can compaire them when racing eachother . Plus I want to be able to gloat when I smoke her and tell her that they are actually the same bikes , which they are now . :lol:

Nice Web-site by the way , just browsed over it. Looks like a very cool spot to ride you got on your site with the sand and all .

That blaster ought to be cool, and soooo easy to fix up nicely . Will probably suck your bank account up a little but oh well .

Good luck with the Web-site, hope it works out as well as Frostbites is working out for him . Maybe you could eventually make some money from advertizing too ? Not that your probably doing it for that reason, but the potential is there .

Later, Pit-Bike build time, its Saturday here and Kelly is VERY VERY VERY excited to finally get his rims and brakes on this bike and ride today or tommorrow. I hope :(

Cheers, Kelly5150 out

[TeamCheap]

The chinablaster is just an extra, uneeded (:lol: extra credit) toy that will just be a fun project.(might let my sister ride it-if it's safe enough)
Right now I have about $450 into it and I doubt I'll spend much over $600 total unless I start putting tires/aluminum rims, hydraulic brakes and aluminum parts all over it.

The wife has her raptor 350 so she's got a fun ride and her bike will be a lot better soon.
She can stick right behind me when I'm on my bike and she is on her quad except for the real real tight winding trails and the long whooped out sections.
she still stinks at mud crossing on the quad though. :lol:

My wife gets mad everytime I buy some parts but oh well. :roll:

yeah thanks for the comments on the web-site.
I was going to go all chinese but then I thought DUH dont want to compete with chinariders and even more so we have a mix of toys so I went a bit more general.
That site is fun but it has only just started and I can see so many changes that will happen over time.

That logo picture is of a small sand hill near ST.helens (mi) and I was on her LF200GY because mine was down at the time.(I look like a bear wearing a white tee-shirt riding a mini bike :lol: )
It would climb the hills but it took most of what it had to do it.
I want to take my bike back up there this year and run around to see how it handles it since mine has noticeably more power and just does better than the stock bikes did in the sand.

[TeamCheap]

My parts so far plus the 200cc china engine that is not in the picture.
http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/7006/dscf0024sb6.jpg


I am going to try and use that exhaust form a china quad but it will need to be reworked to fit.

I was doing a little measuring and it will be a tight fit for the china engine.

[warrior91]

Say T.C. Are those yellow shocks dual rate or different spring rate than the white ones...could be a good set of shocks.They look identical to my warrior shocks(pre load adjust?), and probably were some back yard mech's cheap susp. hop up years ago... Is the rear end preload and compression adjustable with a remote rez???

Just wonderin' :?:

[TeamCheap]

They look like dual rate springs and the rear is the same just bigger, no remote reservoir.
I like them and will most likely use them.
The almost complete roller is a 2001 and I need to get it titled or else I'll be stuck using the other chassis.

This project has me a bit excited since it is so close and should be a lot of fun when done.

Nimble blaster with cheap easy to get parts everywhere.
4-stroke (good for just putting around on and torque-E :lol:)
electric start (maybe kicker back up)

I enjoyed the new blaster I bought back in 89 but now I just dont care for 2-strokes and would rather have a bike that can just pull its way thru stuff without having to rev up to several thousand rpms first.

I posted my project plan on ATVfan forums a long time ago and of course there were people just dead set against it like it was some sort of Sacrilege to put a china engine in a jap quad. :roll:
yeah so I'm gonna do it anyway. :lol:

[warrior91]

Right on...Good on ya bud.

[msRandi]

I have been out of it for some time, and I have missed your posts I would love to see more pic's just keep bilding them.

[msRandi]

PS. No more vivas, but still have 2 motors left over that need a home like a nice honda xr or quid

[TeamCheap]

There is a yamaha big wheel 200 you know the ones with the atv tires no engine in it on EBAY just looking for someone who will care for it. :lol:

Possibly a fun project.1985 yamaha big whel bw 200/350 (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=012&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=220223265169&rd=1)

[katoranger]

PS. No more vivas, but still have 2 motors left over that need a home like a nice honda xr or quid

I am sending a PM.

Allen

[TeamCheap]

WHEW what a day I had to go thru.

I decided to try and get the title for the second parts blaster today while at work.

3 stops later its all set.

The first stop I didnt have ALL the sellers info.(DOH)
The second stop was to drop off the paper work with ALL the needed info.
The final stop had me nervous but I didnt see any sheriffs cars in the parking lot so I went in and it cleared WHEW.

It had to go thru a title search to see it is was stolen which always makes me nervous.I didnt think is was stolen or else I would never have bought it in the first place but you just never know.



SOOOOO let the cutting begin. :lol: :lol:

[TeamCheap]

So I was just messing around on the net looking for sprockets for this project and so far I guess I'll need to look for a #520 size counter sprocket that has a shaft size of 17(maybe 17.5)/5/20 but I will actually have to double check to make sure of what I have.

I guess the engine has a ratio of.....1st gear 2.769:1 (who REALLY knows what the chinese have stuck in there- :roll: :lol: )
and the stock blaster has a ratio of 1st gear 3.091:1

The blaster sprockets stock are 13/40 - #520
I think I'll start off with a 12/40 I could probably get away with 13/40 but I dont want it to fast just fun and reliable.
(This is a friends and family quad 8O )

I want all new chain/sprockets on it and I need them to get it all lined up correctly.

I still need to play with the numbers a lot but I'm rushed this morning.
(got to take mom shopping - she's a riot :lol: )

[TeamCheap]

I did some cutting today and got the engine slid in the frame.
Many obstacles to overcome like the carb hitting the botttom of the fuel tank(expected) and the need to cut the two diagonal frame members.

It is going to be a fun, challenging project.
I'll shim the tank up if I need to but first I need to get my chain/sprockets and get the major frame cut done and out of the way since it is keeping the engine from settling properly.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/DSCF0003.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/DSCF0004.jpg

The carb is tight and will give me a lot to think about. :lol:
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/DSCF0005.jpg


Well imageshack is down and looks out for good so I'm trying photobucket which seems to work well.

[DesertDog]

what frame is that quad ?
and engine ,
also what gave you the desire to do a challenge project, you've got alot of work ahead of you.
thanx for the pics
DD

[katoranger]

It is a yamaha blaster.

TC, will the kick start still be functional? Looks alittle tight in the area.

Allen

[DesertDog]

and the air hose to carb looks abit challenging

[katoranger]

He will have some work to do, but it will be a fun reliable ride when done.

Allen

[TeamCheap]

TC, will the kick start still be functional? Looks alittle tight in the area.
I doubt it, it doesnt look like it will be useable but it's not really even close to where it will be sitting so I'll just wait and see.

and the air hose to carb looks abit challenging
I most likely wont be using the stock airbox but instead a K&N filter but which one?(doesnt matter right now)

I'm looking at different intake manifolds to see how I can reposition the carb.(I may have one that will work but I'll have to measure it out first)

I'll have to make a rock guard for under the frame to protect the engine that will sitting as low as I can get it.

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/DSCF0001.jpg
I'm thinking I can use that chain I just need to clean the rust off of it and soak it in oil for a few weeks. :lol: :lol:
(actually I'll probably have to cut it off with the torch)

This is about how I'll have to adjust the frame to get the engine to fit a little better.
The engine is also sitting slightly to the left but I cant really locate until I have a chain and sprocket set for it and replace the swingarm bushings/bolt.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/DSCF0004-1.jpg

With a 12T CS I'll have the engine sitting so low to where the chain will just clear the swingarm pivot.

[DesertDog]

i remember back in the early 70's , guy's used to remake , modify, frames to fit an engine or change the suspention, yur bringing back old memories, keep the pics coming :)
DD

[TeamCheap]

I got some more grinding, cutting and welding(chinese style :lol: ) done today.


I can now drop the engine in there any where I want it and just have to wait for parts now.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/a2.jpg
After measuring I think I can use the manifold I found but wont know for sure until it gets here.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/a4.jpg
So there isnt much room for the carb just yet as you can see in that picture but I hope the intake I have found will drop the carb downand over to the side just enough.
So I need :

a 12t #520 counter sprocket
a blaster chain set
and most likely I'll just buy a blaster swingarm bearing kit.

After I get all those parts I should be able to atleast get the engine mounts done then it all down hill.

[DesertDog]

:?: or since your cutin and weldin, cut that cross brace out , move it up an inch or two, or lower it, the one right behind the carb, just a thought , and you've probly went there already, and did'nt want to go there

[TeamCheap]

Yeah I was eyeing that up but those two cross braces right there hold the upper shock mount so I wont disturb them if I dont have to.

Right now its on hold until I get some parts in.

My hope is that the intake manifold I bought will put the carb in a much better spot.

[kelly5150]

Umm if you don't want to cut that out like the DesertDog sudgested ( me too would start cutting ) they do make complete 90* intake manifolds you know ? Problem solved, your motor sits soooo far back in that frame it wouldn't effect your legs either .
Just a thought .

Although if worst came to worse it looks like you can weld just fine and changing those shock strutts will not be an issue if they are welded good. JMHO.
Looks good, glad to see your doing her ! :lol:

Cheers, kelly5150 out

[TeamCheap]

I got sort of an S shaped intake coming that I hope puts the carb down and over in the clear but I wont know how it will work until it gets here.
This to me is about the best option as it should lower the carb enough to clear everything but I do wonder how a 4.5-5" long intake will affect tuning, if at all.
There are also different style carbs that I might be able to use but i dont like them with their electric chokes.

If it comes down to cutting those crossmembers out then out they will go and I'll just have to rebuild the mount.

I also have some sprockets on the way for the engine which will help me locate the engine and set the mounts.

I still have to rebuild the swingarm pivot bushings/bearings as those have to be tight to get the chain lined up correctly and all thats in there is a steel rod right now :roll: .
I got to look and see whats useable out of all my parts for the swingarm but I may just go and buy a new bearing set for it.

[kelly5150]

Good choice on the new bearing idea. Don't mess around with that part of the suspension, do it right, or it will do you !

Having an "S" shape intake will only slow the first initial gasp of air it chokes into the carb, after that , the "S" restriction from its turn will act like backpressure and make a Venturi effect rather than bog it down , so you should be good to go . Should not be a problem at all. It is knida like the guys that rough up there intake ports to swirl the gas around a bit more, which causes backpressure too and even atomizes the gas even further, equals better burn . Your Golden man !!!!

Later, Cheers and good luck on the new parts, hope they get there soon :lol: Don't you just hate waiting ? I do ! Then if the wrong part shows up, I go into deep depression . Or if the right part shows and it doesn't fit because we over thought the idea to start with, that is even worse . I have come up with a nice little vocabulary in my garage at times after tearing into my order boxes :lol:

Kelly out

[Cal25]

I remember a buddy of mine had a Trials 80 Yamaha. The carb on that thing was right up gainst the jug. I think that was one of the ways they improved the torque on that little engine. You could put the front tire up against a tree and let the clutch out and back tire would just start turning.
Loads of torque.

[TeamCheap]

I have come up with a nice little vocabulary in my garage at times after tearing into my order boxes

I call that my "magic chant of cuss words" tool ( sadly its the only tool I can always find in my tool box).

I havnt looked over the swingarm bearings I have just yet but I am leaning towards all new ones just so I know its all good.

Yeah I dont expect to much trouble from a long intake just some tuning needed should ba all I just hope it solves the problem.
I'm more concerned with the leverage it will have and the bouncing around with the weight of the carb and filter on it but I may just make a support bracket and end that probelm also.

[TeamCheap]

Well some parts are on the way.

2 front sprockets
1 S shaped intake
and a swingarm bearing set

I also have a CDI unit coming and will most likely try it on this once it is up and running.

I still have a lot of parts to get but I'll take it a little at a time.

[kelly5150]

Good idea to take is at you can , you never know what you need till you add a few parts here and there anyway . Seams to change other parts adding parts to a build , thats for sure . Then of course there is the MONEY aspect too, which I am sure we all know that one or we'd be driving Mercedez Benz and probably owne half a dozen KTM's .
I am pretty sure thats why were mostly about China here anyway right, a bargain is a bargain .
Cool, new parts !!!! :lol:
I swear by those performance or No rev CDI units, they work great, cheap and a real nice upgrade over stock anything .

Cheers, good luck, excited for you to see it comming along . Too bad we have to pay bills at the same time huh ? Oh well, such is life .

Kellyout

[TeamCheap]

I got my intake today and it looks promising but I havnt had time to mess with it since I am at home but on the clock. :lol: (lunch break)

It looks like it will drop the carb down a whopping 3" and move it rearward 4".

Now if it all just lines up correctly that will be a done deal.

I'll try messing with it when I get home and take some pictures.


worst case senario might be the carb tilted to far to one side but I'll just make an corrective aluminum plate for that if it comes up.

I'm silly I know for thinking I need the carb straight up and down and not tilted to far front or back (just a nice level float bowl is all I want)

[sanders]

Sounds like a fun little project. I knew better than to sell my 350 warrior after the engine blew... Oh well $800 bucks in the wallet for a worn out 350 warrior rolling chassis = good enough for me :wink:

[kelly5150]

TeamCheap,
that aint silly thinking, that's "Correct" thinking .

Hope it all works out .

Cheers, kelly5150

[TeamCheap]

:lol: kelly5150 I know it has to be very close to work best.

Some people may think you can just slap this stuff together but a little time to get things aligned saves a lot more time dowen the road.

OK here are some pics.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/DSCF0001-1.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/DSCF0002-1.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/DSCF0003-1.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/DSCF0004-2.jpg
This is the engine all the way forward which helps clear the tank but the counter sprocket is way to far forward also.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/DSCF0006.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/DSCF0007.jpg

So I guess I'll just find a spot for the carb behind the upper shock cross members and go from there.
Atleast that way it will wheelie real easy. :lol:

[DesertDog]

hey team cheap, what other options are there that u've brainstormed about,
my thought is what about a 30 deg or so might be 10 degrees, and turn the carb to the left/or right , just enough to run the air intake under that cross member , it is better to run an air hose pipe to a carb , than a intake pipe from carb to the engine.
then that way you can leave your engine back where you want it ,
just my thought
DD

[TeamCheap]

well one thing I havnt done yet is to flip the stock intake around and see where that puts the carb.(DOH)

I'm not fond of the long intake but it should still work.
I plan to just use a K&N filter on it since we really dont ride much water/mud

I was surprized that new intake fit as well as it does and it does move the carb back to a more useable position but I still think the counter shaft will have to come up to get a good alignment for the chain.

[AZ200cc]

Measure twice..Build once :D You'll get TC all in due time

[TeamCheap]

I just got two packages in the mail Hmmm I wonder what they could be oh well it will have to wait since I am on my lunch break.

[kelly5150]

Goodies are always nice in the mail .

I am sure you have noticed , but look how many hits this topic has brought in ? Many !
Your pretty popular , and so is the topic . Your doing what most don't have the talent or daring to do or to even try . Kudos fellow builder .

Cheers, Kelly5150 out :lol:

[TeamCheap]

you know what, I havnt looked at how many hits its gotten.
To me those are like post counts (dont really matter) but I'm glad a lot of people are following along.

The packages are the swingarm bearing kit and my counter shaft sprockets that fit the engine perfectly and are the correct #520 size to match the blasters rear sprocket size.

I went with a 12T and a 13T and I plan to get a new chain and rear sprocket when needed but for now I should be able to get the engine aligned.

I will try the 13T sprocket first and if I dont like that then I can hopefully just slip the 12T in there and adjust the chain up with out having to remove any links.

[TeamCheap]

OK a small update.
I have been working on this a little bit here and there while waiting for a rear caliper rebuild kit to come for my 300ex.

I have replaced the swingarm bearings and it is like new now so I can start the process of mounting the engine.
I had to use one of the old spacers to fill the gap in the swingarm area that the blaster engine would have filled.

And I finally found the counter-sprocket washer/lock so I can actually get it all lined up and weld in some engine mounts.

I still need a wire harness for it or I'll have to make one and then there are the control lever issues but I guess getting the engine mounted in is next.

I was thinking about switching the rear brakes to hydraulic in hopes of making room for the kick starter lever but I'll know better when the engine is in.

[TeamCheap]

:lol: Been so long since I've been here but I have gotten more done on the "chinablaster" or as I call it now "blastard".

Got the upper & lower rear engine mounts tacked in and the chain is set.
Worked all day long yesturday on the carb intake manifold, yeah I had to make it so it is crude but fitting for this project I suppose.

Probably be months before I get back here again :roll:.

I'll clean up the intake manifold and and check it for leaks some more and go out to the shed and look for any/all parts I might have for this then make a list of what I still need.

I know I need a wire harness and handlebar controls and a key but I think I have the rest.

I wish I could have gotten all this from a donor but never found one.
I thought about using parts off my wifes china bike but I hate to tear it apart just to get this to run plus I need a chinese ATV wire harness for it not the full motorcycle harness.

[Jim]

Hey welcome back, while shaking my head at the wiring on my beast, I found a gio beast wiring harness on ebay for $20 plus shipping, not sure if it will help you, http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/GIO-200CC-BEAST-ATV-QUAD-WIRE-HARNESS-/370415565921?pt=Motors_ATV_Parts_Accessories&hash=item563e7cfc61#ht_3153wt_1165

[TeamCheap]

That would probably work I already seen that.
I found this also and at about the same averall cost.
EBAY-Wire Harness 200cc 250cc (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=380245366845&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMESINDXX%3AIT)

I have to go look around to see what exactly I need still and to start working on the mounting brackets for the electrical stuff.

[Weldangrind]

Thanks for bringing this old thread back to life; I hadn't come across it before. The intake tube you bought is exactly the one that comes stock on the Gio Beast 200. It is required so that the carb will sit low enough to accomodate the throttle cable into the top of the carb, vs a CV style that has the cable at the side.

I've toyed with the idea of a Chinese CV carb for my Beast, but it runs really well, so why mess with it?

[Jim]

but it runs really well, so why mess with it?



Cledus Snow: Well they said it ain't never been done before.
Bandit: W'hell thats the reason, son.
Cledus Snow: [shrugs] That's good with Fred.
Bandit: [laughing] Ten-four

[TeamCheap]

That intake even though it is long and drops the carb, it just wasnt right for my blastard project.No matter how I tried the rear shock support or the bottom of the fuel tank got in the way.

I looked at the CV carbs but just didnt like them, to much extra junk on them.

I finally gave in and tried to make one and even though it is hideous, I think it will work.Nothing fancy just steel plate and 1" black pipe cut and welded together.

I just dug up some other parts and I did keep the blaster air cleaner parts so I'm hoping I can use that instead of buying a K&N for it although a K&N would be fine by me, just dont have the cash.

Trying to get this 200cc china engine stuffed into this blaster frame has been a long time project but delayed by some real life problems but I am determined to ride it in the snow this winter so I'll just keep plugging away at it.

I have a lot done on it really compared to where I left off and it looks good so far with the engine set in place, the chain set and now the carb mountable.

[TeamCheap]

OK I got a coil, starter relay, CDI, regulator, a 300ex battery box.

I'll still need the thumb throttle and cable, choke cable, wire harness, left hand control switches, key, K&N filter I think I can make the blaster clutch cable work.

Hers is a picture.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/DSCF0023.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/DSCF0028.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/DSCF0029.jpg

I'll still have to shim the tank up so it clears the valve cover.

http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/DSCF0024.jpg

[Weldangrind]

I like your intake manifold. What did you use to seal the flange to the head?

Your new chain looks very straight; you seem to have accomplished good sprocket alignment.

[TeamCheap]

I like your intake manifold. What did you use to seal the flange to the head?

Your new chain looks very straight; you seem to have accomplished good sprocket alignment.Nothing yet but I'll make a gasket and use some RTV.I know I should have made it so it used an O-ring but I just didnt think I could do it.

The sprocket alignment looks good but I'll be happier once I actually try it and see how it works.

I got to clean up out there, its a mess but I'll get the front engine brackets done first since there will be lots of cutting/grinding.

[ejcycles]

Just a suggestion... Yamabond #4 or Three Bond T1194, they are both basically the same, just different names. They make a rubberized seal that fuel, oil, heat etc. will not affect the material in the product. Yamabond #4 has been used since the 60's to assemble 2-stroke crank cases, without a gasket.

[TeamCheap]

Just a suggestion... Yamabond #4 or Three Bond T1194, they are both basically the same, just different names. They make a rubberized seal that fuel, oil, heat etc. will not affect the material in the product. Yamabond #4 has been used since the 60's to assemble 2-stroke crank cases, without a gasket.Thanks, I may need something like that.

[Weldangrind]

Three Bond is an excellent product, and Loctite makes a version as well.

[TeamCheap]

Well its getting closer and closer.

I got the front engine mounts done WHEW so the engine can be bolted in securely.

The carb manifold is done just need to make a gasket.

I think I got the stock blaster clutch lever/cable to work but wont know until I get to ride it.

I need to get the electrical stuff I'm missing and the thumb throttle & cable and choke cable.

No kick start lever ....yet, it just wont fit with the rear brakes right there but I may have a solution to that but it is low priority.

I got to clean up the gargage now its a mess and most of the heavy cutting/grinding & welding is done.

[TeamCheap]

I was out looking thru my junk and found the exhaust.
(I thought I had bought one-you should never leave projects undone for to long)
That saves me a little cash and headache but as you can see in the picture its a bit short.( ohh well it gives me something to do)
I need to make a coupling of sorts since I just cant snake it thru the right opening in the frame.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/Blastardexhaust.jpg

Tonight I hope to yank the engine out for like the hundreth time and flip the blastard up and check the welds and do some touch up.Then clean it all up and hit it with some paint to seal it until summer.

Then it will go back on the stand, engine will go back in and I'll cut that exhaust to make it fit.

Having that exhaust is great because it gives me something to do until the electrical stuff gets here.

I noticed the rear brake cable has a broken adjuster at the rear disc, I hope I can come up with a teamcheap fix for that.

[FastDoc]

Great project. Ambitious! Great fabrication skills. This makes my Lifan XR looks easy!

[TeamCheap]

Thanks for the comments, it helps to keep me going.

This has been in the making for far to long and I must get it done and ride it in some snow this winter or I'll just pop.

I purposefuly stuck it up on the rack in my gaarge so I could see it everytime I go in there as a reminder to get to work on it. :)

The 12 days off over christmas was just what I needed to get some major things done on it.

[Weldangrind]

I have that very exhaust on my Gio Beast. I have a replacement muffler for mine, and I've offered to perform surgery on Jim's as well. TurboT's Beast woke right up with a new muffler (along with other mods).

Check this out, if you're interested in opening up that muffler: http://www.chinariders.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=10760

Excellent work so far. Thanks for the updates. :D

[TeamCheap]

Good reading on the exhaust mods THANKS.

The big problem here is if the muffler doesnt have "USFS" stamped on it meaning it is United States Forest Service approved and they catch me they can and most likely will fine my hiney.

That doesnt mean I wont use it because I will but I'll start off with it stock so I hopefully wont have to do to much tuning.
I dont want to have to mess with rejetting to much I'm hoping to just get it to fire up and run well enough to test it then fine tune from there.

This summer I'll go for more performance after it has been taken on some shake down runs.

I did do a little more welding on the bottom where I couldnt get to before and slapped some paint on it and came inside because the wifes chili smelled so good.

[TeamCheap]

Not much more done really.
The engine is bolted in, carb is in (hope it doesnt leak), clutch is hooked up, chain is on, yeah it looks tight but it has free play and loosens up a tiny bit more once it comes off that lower chain roller.
Ugly primer paint but thats all I have right now and I'll touch it all up this summer anyway.(if it runs- :roll: )

Heres the front engine mounts.
Both had to be made to be removable so I can slide the engine forward out of the rear mounts and then just slide the engine out of the frame.
They work perfectly.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/frontbrackets.jpg


Heres just a left side shot.
The fuel tank is going to have to be shimmed up just a little.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/leftside.jpg

The exhaust pipe that had to be cut.
I'll have to mod it a bit and make a coupling.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/exhaust3.jpg

Still waiting on electrical so I can work on that exhaust.

[Weldangrind]

I don't know why, but I've always been drawn to the primer look, with red oxide being my favourite. Maybe because it implies a work in progress. :D

Glad to hear that the mounts are successful. It looks like the oil filter screen in accessible; can you remove the cap easily?

Is the rear brake a dual-action setup (operable by either foot or hand)?

Do you plan to use the top engine mount? It's not used on my Gio Beast atv.

I recommend that you modify the "6-Speed" decal with a Sharpie. :lol:

[TeamCheap]

I don't know why, but I've always been drawn to the primer look, with red oxide being my favourite. Maybe because it implies a work in progress. :D

Glad to hear that the mounts are successful. It looks like the oil filter screen in accessible; can you remove the cap easily?

Is the rear brake a dual-action setup (operable by either foot or hand)?

Do you plan to use the top engine mount? It's not used on my Gio Beast atv.

I recommend that you modify the "6-Speed" decal with a Sharpie. :lol:The oil screen, dipstick are accessable and the drain plug is just hanging there but I really need to plate it down there so I dont bash the bottom of the engine.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/DSCF0030.jpg

The rear brake is foot operated and also park with the front brake lever so all 4 tires are locked when park is applied.

The top engine mount may still get cut off I have to decide if it will be worth doing, it hits the botom of the gas tank.That engine is rock solid in there even with the bolts just slid in.
It would give me a bit more clearance from the bottom of the gas tank but then it would just rest on the valve cover.That upper mount isnt needed on this but if I were to want to put that engine back in a bike it would be needed so I am reluctant to cut it off.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/DSCF0034.jpg

I'll do something with that 6-speed thing but most likely will cut that part of the sticker off.

[mizke]

looks great

[TeamCheap]

Thanks.

If I could just get it to sound great but then I havnt been out working on it since its so cold out there in the garage and I havnt refilled my propane tanks yet.

I'm going to try and get it to turn over today and maybe/hopefully pop then I'll work on the exhaust some more.

[mizke]

i like how my fmf powercore 2 sounds on my 200cc beast. its got a different sound and its loud as crap due to not having a quite core inscert for it..

check out lexx they have a nice muffler and many options to tune the sound of the exhaust..

[TeamCheap]

When I said I just want it to sound good I really meant I just want it to make a sound. :lol:

I have to get this wire harness under control since it isnt going to be a simple plug & play its going to be more of a curse & moan.

I started last night with editing a wiring diagram and eliminating all the extra unused stuff then I started looking and the harness and making some simple changes.
I'm hoping I dont have to completely take the wire harness apart to make some changes and so far it looks like it will just need to be mapped out and rearranged a bit.

I'm not going to have a clutch switch but I need the nuetral switch for safety.
I dont need blinkers, gear selection indicator, tach, horn and so on, well I may reserve the tach wire for later use but its not real important to me.

I do need connectors though to make it easy.

[mizke]

you could just use a china wire harness and china parts on it. you could also just take it one plug at a time and swap plugs to a different kind that you can find at radio shack. but doing that it might be easier in the long run to copy the old harness and build a new one.. easier said then done, i know..if i could sit down and build a new harness i would route some of the harness completely different to avoid that rats nest look wires tend to get..

[TeamCheap]

Thats just it, it is a china wire harness made for a china ATV and a bit different than the dualsport wire harness that came with our china bikes.

Anyway the more I look at it and mess with it the more I see I have much less to correct.I need to make a few changes and it should work.

The starter relay plug needs to be changed and the 9-pin plug up front needs to go but all in all it is very close.

I have a three day weekend this weekend and expect to have it running unless something else gets in the way.

Looks like its time to break out the soldering iron.

[mizke]

good luck, hope you get it sorted out and running soon.. nothing is better then the first start up of a project

[TeamCheap]

Thanks.
Yeah the first start up should be exciting.

I had to wait until I got my two 20lb. propane tanks filled so I have heat out there.

I will be out there saturday working on the exhaust getting it hooked up and hopefully getting the battery box and wiring done enough to be able to start it.The 3 day weekend is gonna be good for me and the Blastard.

The more I looked at the wiring the more it all falls into place and since all I'll have is a neutral safety switch as a safety I wont need the diode. The headlight and brake light and brake light switch dont need to be done right now.

I'll just pull the battery out of my 300ex and use an extra box I have to make a battery mount.The 300ex battery looks bigger than the stock battery that came in the lifan GY5 bike originally.

[mizke]

sounds like a plan, just take youre time and do a clean job. it always looks and works better in the end when people take their time with projects.

ive seen how cheap bare frames are and believe me ive had passing thoughts of how awesome it would be to do what you are doing..having a cheap power plant but yet being able to buy extending swing arms and controls, and just having the all around r&d that was put in the brand name quads

[TeamCheap]

Yeah the blaster is a solid, proven platform with many items out there for it.

I like that it has grease zerks all over and as far as riding it is a bit small but very nible I just hope this one works out.

I had a brand new 89 blaster and I put a honda 200 ATC engine in another one back in the early 90's but I think this one will will be even better.

I may have to make up a kick start that kicks forward using a chain and two spockets to make it work or go to hydraulic brakes atleast for the back to get enough room for a kick lever.

None of that should hold me back from getting it to run.Once its up and running I can go for more performance with rejetting and exhaust mods.

[mizke]

you could even do a setup to where you can use the kick start.. but keep the kick start lever stashed and zip tied to the frame somewhere hidden from sight.. then when you are out riding should the battery ever die, you can still get her started and back home..

[TeamCheap]

yeah thats an idea......I wont be using the stock air filter so I have lots of room under the seat.

[mizke]

well there ya go, i just like the idea of having a back means to start quads.. cuz if its electric start and the battery dies, you get to push a round a 300 almost 400 pds rolling paper weight..

[TeamCheap]

Well its not that bad.....we dont push, we pull behind the other quad, never ride alone.
We could always pull start it to get it back too but a kick lever would allow me to continue to ride without much hassle.

I just want to get it to turn over and start first then go from there.

[TeamCheap]

OK so well I spent a few minutes out in the garage today and messed around with the wiring and had to change some stuff but................

IT'S ALIVE 8O

It's still in critical shape meaning the wire harness is just hanging there and I'm still missing two indicator lights, headlight, tail light and all the mounts to hold it all on the frame but atleast it POPPED and ran for a few seconds.

Yeah I did the bad "sure shot" starting fluid but even worse is it just has a straight pipe for an exhaust right now, I used my jump box for a power source.
So I'll work on the exhuast today and hopefully get some of the electrical component mounts done.

Once the exhuast is done I'll thow the tank on and fire it up and run it on fuel for a minute or so and watch for smoking wires.

It's really coming together with the handle bar mounted choke and a functioning electric start.The neutral safety switch on the gear selector works as it should and the key switch works as well.

WOW almost 3 years on this project and still not done but then we did have to move which has slowed me down a bit.

[Weldangrind]

Congratulations! :D

You made my day, despite the starting fluid. :lol:

[Jim]

Congratulations :)

[TeamCheap]

Thanks.

I'm very happy today.
My wife came home from staying at her sisters and I fired it for a second and it scared her a little.

I know I shouldnt use the starting fluid but I'm done with that now and will get it some good ole regular here ASAP.

I have some running around to do today now so I have to wait until later to get anything else done but I'm over the hump on this one, now it's just clean it all up time.
(unless the wiring smokes on me)

[TeamCheap]

Well didnt get as much done as I wanted but it is closer.

The 300ex battery box is installed under the seat so now the rest of the electrical stuff can be mounted which is going to take some work but it just keeps getting easier and easier.

With the exhaust pretty much done, well atleast good enough to run it a bit and it sounds good, starts and idles like it should.

I just cant hardly wait to take it for its first ride around the yard because I'm curious as to how close I got the chain/sprockets set to the right ratio.

This thing should be a blast with more conveniences than a regular blaster, electric start, left hand thumb choke, four stroke putt-putt engine :wink:

[mizke]

good deal man, sounds like she will be a blast..

[Weldangrind]

I hope you get video of the maiden voyage. :D

[TeamCheap]

Still have lots to do but here it is as it stands this morning.

This is where the CDI, regulator and relay will be located.(I may shield them from tire fling a bit later)
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/cdi-regulator-relay.jpg

I cut the top mount and the tank just clears so I'll most likely shim it 1/4" just to give a little room over the valve cover.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/tankclearance.jpg

This is just the right side but the exhaust is on tucked neatly behind/under the plastic fender.(needs a little heat shield to protect leg)
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/rightside.jpg

The 300ex battery box.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/battbox1.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/battboxtop.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/battboxmount.jpg

The wire mess but it doesnt scare me I have it beat.(still got work to do on it but I'm all over it)
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/thewiremess.jpg

[Cal25]

Looks great! Your almost done too.

[Weldangrind]

Can you apply some adhesive heat shield to the underside of the tank? It might be a good idea, considering the heat that is generated through the valve cover.

The upper steering support is obviously where the design came from that's on the Gio Beast. May we have a close-up shot of the bottom of the steering shaft?

Your quad is coming along nicely. Only a few more hours! :D

[FastDoc]

Great work. I am impressed and bet you will have a lot of fun with the finished project. Looks like you're almost there.

The trick to the wiring nightmare is to look at it as many small projects rather than one big one. The make each connection 100% secure. Soldering and shrink tubing is the way I like to do it. Then pray, and turn the key. :D

[TeamCheap]

Thanks for the comments.

I am excited about how close it is but wont be able to work on it until the weekend.My garage just takes to much to heat up so I like to make a full day of it when I'm out there.

The wiring was harder than it should have been but easier than I thought it would be.I may order a terminal kit from vintage connections (http://www.vintageconnections.com/).I wanted to before but never got around to it then we moved but I could make use of them.

yeah some sort of heat shield will most likely be needed although the stock blaster engine was also right under it but better safe than engulfed in flames.

It is close to rideable but even after that there is a lot to do to it but it will all come around soon.

I think I'll go ahead and order the rear brake cable and a taillight for it.

I have to look around and see if I have all the plastic, for some reason I think I'm missing the front hood.

Pics of the lower steering stem.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/steerstem4.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/steerstem3.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/steerstem2.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/steerstem1.jpg

I dont know if I got the shot you wanted let me know.

[FastDoc]

Those look like some very nice kits, and a major timesaver.

[Weldangrind]

Thanks for the great shots! It's amazing, that's exactly how my Beast is set up. I knew that there were some similarities, but not this close.

Is that a rubber washer / isolator above the castle nut? If so, that would explain why the hole was drilled so far down on our quads. I stacked stainless washers to take up the space so that the castle nut would line up with the cotter pin. If that is a rubber piece, I might order one to see if it removes some steering vibration. What year and model is your quad?

[FastDoc]

Seems to me the grease zerk is a nice touch too. I don't think my Kawasaki has one there.

[TeamCheap]

I cant off hand remember what year this blaster is, maybe an early 90's, they are all pretty much the same up until around 03.

The grease zerks are nice and found all over the yamaha's which I like, as you can see this thing needs to be cleaned up. :oops:

If it wasnt 1:30 A.M. I'd go out and take a poke at the bushing just above the castle nut but I'll check it out thursday for you.(I doubt its rubber)

The blaster is a good, simple, solid ATV that has a proven design and would be safe to copy which is what it looks like the chinese did to a certain extent.The chinese are not stupid, I havnt seen them make a copy of the yugo :lol:.

Here is a exploded view of the frame showing a bushing for that.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/522_frame.gif

The steering stem.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/522_steering.gif

I did order two connector kits to complete the wiring and have it look professional as well as the rear brake cable that is broke and an led tail light for it.
The brakes still work but an adjuster is broke and it wont last long with use.

[Weldangrind]

Thanks for the expoded views. The steering shaft, the clamshell bearing halves with o-rings, the tie rods, everything looks the same. Good to know there's another source for parts. :D

[TeamCheap]

Thanks for the expoded views. The steering shaft, the clamshell bearing halves with o-rings, the tie rods, everything looks the same. Good to know there's another source for parts. :DNo problem.
Posting those are easy since most every online yamaha dealer has the online microfiche.

[TeamCheap]

Well to my amazement I got my wire connectors today but I doubt I'll get anything done, just havnt been up to doing to much the last couple of days.

I'll get out there sunday and get a few things done on the electrical.

[TeamCheap]

Rode it.....I just came in from taking it for a little ride around the yard.

Its still not all put together, fenders and such but it is running although not perfectly smooth, I'm guessing I'll need to clean the carb and double check the wiring for loose connections.

But anyway the thing rocks even though I have no traction on the ice out in the yard it seems to have very good final ratio.

I'll know when I take it down the road if it tops out to soon or cant pull 5th.

I may have to hook up a clutch safety switch because having to go back to neutral to start it is going to drive me nuts.


EDIT:Heres a vid---a lousy vid and it was cold outside (13F)
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/th_100_0910.jpg (http://s294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/?action=view&current=100_0910.mp4)

[Jim]

Congrats, looks like you had some fun with it :)

[Weldangrind]

TeamCheap, you just made my day! :D That's exactly what I would have been doing today if I had it my way.

[TeamCheap]

Thanks.

I wasnt sure if I would even get this far since I sat in the house thursday, friday and saturday, just wasnt up to going out and working on it or doing much of anything.

Sunday I dragged myself out there and got some stuff done and I love the "vintage connectors" kits I bought although I feel they are a bit over priced.

The quad does run but not quit right so I'll start looking it over to see whats up.It may be the intake manifold or gunk in the carb or an electrical issue.

I'm really leaning hard towards a clutch switch so I can start it in gear if I want to, if I do that I'll need to wire in a diode to keep the neutral light from lighting everytime the clutch is pulled. :roll:

[TeamCheap]

Ok so I took the carb off and yes there was some gunk and crud in there.

I cleaned it up and put it back together but didnt have a small filter so I have to get one but it was running much better.

Now it idles for a minute or so then will increase rpms for 15-20 seconds then idle back down all on its own.
I was just sitting on it for a few minutes listening to it cycle.

Before cleaning it it ran OK but was very inconsistant and stalled easy now atleast it is very consistant and stays running just surging a bit.

I dont tlike that tiny O-ring between the carb and intake manifold so I'll look for a replacement.

[FastDoc]

I dont like that tiny O-ring between the carb and intake manifold so I'll look for a replacement.

That's a good idea because it seems to me your idle problem is a vacuum leak.

[Weldangrind]

My guess is the o-ring between the intake tube and the head is the culprit.

See this thread for details, page four: http://www.chinariders.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=8928&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=45

[TeamCheap]

My guess is the o-ring between the intake tube and the head is the culprit.

See this thread for details, page four: http://www.chinariders.net/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=8928&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=45Yeah I had seen that post and was thinking about that when I was looking at that tiny, thin O-ring.

I'll get a positive seal there and hopefully that will be it but it could be the intake manifold I made thats leaking somewhere.

Ohh well its not to bad right now and is very rideable and fun even with the over inflated tires on the ice and snow with next to zero traction it still spins the tires like mad and gets going.

[ejcycles]

TC
Suggestion... Leave the O-Ring, add a gasket & T1194 {from 3-Bond} that will seal any leak @ that point. I had an old 1978 Honda XL100 I rebuilt for a guy, had issues with vacuum leaks @ carburetor-n-manifold & manifold & head. I added a gasket & T1194, done no more vacuum leaks.

[FastDoc]

Permatex also makes an outstanding sticky slimy sealant.

[TeamCheap]

Thanks for the suggestions.

I'll work on it this saturday and put a gasket and T1194 on it.

Had a long day at work today changing a 12" valve.

[midlifekrisiz]

My guess is the o-ring between the intake tube and the head is the culprit.

i am leaning towards a loose nut near the fuel tank....

[Weldangrind]

If that means the operator, you might be right. :lol:

[Jim]

If that means the operator, you might be right. :lol:

Reminds me of some song lyrics.

What is the most important part of an automobile? An old timer once told me it's the nut that holds the wheel.

[midlifekrisiz]

If that means the operator, you might be right. :lol:


BINGO you win a xtra large double double .....we'll buy

[TeamCheap]

:lol:

I worked on the exhaust a bit more sunday mainly making a clamp and sizing the pipe for a tighter fit, no picture sorry. (no big deal)

I did take a picture of the hideous wiring mounts I made,....I dont know why I took the picture but here it is.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/Blastardwiring.jpg

I like the nuts welded where things get mounted it just makes it easier to work on later.
(I try to limit the amount of loose nuts I have to deal with :lol: )

I still have to make a mount for the ignition switch and wire in the headlight, taillight, nuetral indicator light and high beam indicator light as well as the clutch switch.

[Jim]

Sounds like it's coming a long :)

[Weldangrind]

I say abandon this project now. That engine belongs in your new mini bike.

[TeamCheap]

:lol: That engine is bigger than that minibike besides I have a 250cc polaris with CVT that I want to stuff in the minibike.

[TeamCheap]

Ok some fresh pictures.
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/100_0944.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/100_0947.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/100_0943.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/100_0945.jpg
http://i294.photobucket.com/albums/mm105/TeamCheap/Blastard/100_0946.jpg

[TeamCheap]

Hers a vid of me getting a little crazy in the yard.
Its running pretty good but I did have to put a 107.5 main jet in it and I may still have to fine tune some more.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7pptPxGa1IA&feature=player_profilepage

[FastDoc]

Hey that looks great! Congratulations on your project!

[mizke]

looks very good awesome job..


i wonder what the blaster frame weighed compared to the china frame.. it seems it might be a good bit lighter cuz my 200cc quad with mods and a rejet cant ride a first gear wheelie that good with out some serious yanking up and mashing the throttle at the right time..

[TeamCheap]

Thanks for the kind words guys I am very happy with it so far.

So far it seems to be working well but I wont call it done until I get several trouble free hours on it.
It does have a lot of nit picky things that I have to do to it and I plan to paint the frame red this fall if its still running and in one piece.


It will pull the front end somewhat easily but I think the weight bias has a lot more to do with it than people think.

My wifes raptor 350 is almost impossible to get the front end up on which is what I wanted for her.
My 300ex is a wheelie machine and will pull the front end up with ease which is what I like when having to climb over a fallen tree.

The blastard is in the middle of those two.

[mizke]

oh believe me buddy i more then understand just how much the power to weight ratio means.. thats how a turbo'd 4banger honda can run with a cobra. the honda only needs about 350-375whp or a little less to run with a 500hp cobra due to the cobra being some where in the 4000-4500pd range and the honda 2000-2500pds..

if you remove 4lbs off the rotational mass of a cars flywheel, it has the same effect as removing 100pds off the body of the car in terms of acceleration..

[Weldangrind]

That looks store bought! I'd be worried about busting spindles on my China quad riding on both right wheels like that. :lol:

There's horsepower hiding in that muffler.

[TeamCheap]

I wasnt talking about the power to weight ratio's I was talking about the weight bias/weight distribution having an effect on on how easy or hard it is to pull a wheelie.

At some point when you have gobbs of horse power it will just easily overcome the weight but on a little 200cc atv with modest HP its more of a matter of where the weight is on the ATV overall.If I had put that engine farther forward it would take a lot more to pull the front end up.
I jammed the engine as far back as it could go for chain reasons more than weight distribution.

Weldandgrind It does have a bent left spindle already (I have another) but I have no worries with that frame although they will break.
There is all the work I did to it to worry about but overall I can beat it hard and it will come back for more.
That exhaust is more open than I thought and I will most likely have to rejet it again.
I'm sure your ATV would hold up just fine.
7" of suspension travel is nice and I hope I can use it all soon, I cant hardly wait to get it up to the trails..

Riding it on two side wheels like that is easy and fun I love how easy the blasters are to ride.

I have to do some serious work on the rear brakes because they are almost unnoticable.

[TeamCheap]

OMG
I just came in from checking the intake manifold I made for leaks and............its a leaker.....well was a leaker, I got a lot of them welded up but I still have to clean/grind on it and recheck.

I took it off the quad because I ran it and noticed a backfire and seen a small jet of fuel shooting out of the manifold side when it backfired. :roll:

I removed it and made a couple of block off plates for the ends and one has a air hose fitting that I was putting about 15-20psi into then checking with some leak detection solution you can buy most anywhere.

It still has a few very very small leaks that I'll take care of sunday.

[Weldangrind]

Maybe you could tap the intake tube for pipe thread, which would allow you to install a small barb. The benefit is that you could connect a vacuum gauge to confirm that there are no leaks, and you could use it for tuning. As I understand it, the air / fuel screw will be at the correct point (at idle) when the vacuum signal is the highest.

BTW, if there is a vacuum leak, the gauge will bounce.

[TeamCheap]

I may have to install a vacuum port for later tuning/diagnostics but for now just taking it off and adding low pressure and leak detection liquid is working just fine.

I wish I had gotten the gas kit for my wire welder instead of having to use the flux-cored stuff.

It just amazed me at how much leakage there was from the tiniest hole.

I may try making another one and try to make it cleaner and lighter but it wont be easy for me.

[TeamCheap]

We went up riding 9/4/11 (beautiful day for it) and I hit the sprocket ratio perfectly since for the most part on the trails it was in 3rd but on the open sandy road it would pull 5th gear and it was hauling butt, 1st and 2nd were good for climbing the hills.

I am very pleased at how it runs.

Now for the repairs I need to make to it since it has always had a bent left spindle and after colliding with a 3 wheeler on the trail which bent the left tierod end to an unusable angle.
Tagged a small tree stump which sent me off course a little, I recovered but looked back and when I looked forward there he was and with about a second or so to react there wasnt much I could do going around 25mph.

The trail was as wide as an ATV and rutted down, lined with tree stumps and saplings, I glanced off his 3 wheeler and fell over.
YES yes I was going a bit to fast but honestly I would have been going even faster if I wasnt waiting for my wife to catch up.
My left arm is swollen up and looks like popeyes arm.

I have those parts on the parts frame so that wont cost anything but time.

[Weldangrind]

Yikes! 8O

Glad to hear that you're ok, for the most part. Hope your arm heals quickly. How's the other guy?

[TeamCheap]

I'll be fine, just a bit sore and stiff with mild brusing and he took a hit to his leg and was bleeding just a little but said he'll be fine.
He wasnt hurt as bad as me when I lost it on my minibike.

It could have been much worse but I cut to the right at about a half second late but misssed the head on.

[FastDoc]

That sucks but I'm glad you and the machine are (relatively) fine. :wink:

[TeamCheap]

I love this thing.

We went riding saturday and the blastard ran great.........again.

The ATLANTA trails werent the best being snowmobile trails which were to smooth, wide and unchallenging and the ORV trail was lined with serious stumps and trees much worse than the "norm".

But we still had fun...just had to go slow and I mean slow like 5-10mph thru the tight ORV trail because of the stuff in the way.

Not much left I would want to do to it maybe some new tires and new handlebars and hook up a clutch switch so I can start it in gear with the clutch pulled in.

[Weldangrind]

That clutch switch is an excellent idea! You might already have a switch on the clutch that is unused. Maybe I'll do that.

Have you considered aluminum handlebars? I've never owned any, but I understand that they minimize vibration.

[TeamCheap]

The engine is from my dualsport so yeah it is supposed to have a clutch switch and a diode so the neutral indicator doesnt light everytime the clutch is pulled in if I remember it all right.

Aluminum handlebars will be 1st choice decided overall by price but more than that I want/need taller bars because I hunch over a bit when standing and dont like that.