tt250 wire harness

[SensuBeanCartel]

Well I went ahead and got the tt250 harness, as i already had the stator and flywheel from a purchase a while back. Not sure if everything is gonna be included, but with the limited amount of electrical on this bike it shouldn't be too difficult (all of my aftermarket accessories might be worse to sort out in terms of cable management).

I purchased the CDI, I have the rectifier already but i am going to be using a FH020AA since its plug and play for the tt250 harness, i am also going to be using the handlebar switches from the tt250. I have also changed the ground to a higher quality 10G ground wire.

If anyone has already done this or has any advice it would be greatly appreciated, I would like to get my bike running as soon as possible. Any foresight into the problems ill run into would be amazing so i can order the parts or rectify the situation ahead of time. :)

For my hawk of course.

[SensuBeanCartel]

looks like the gearshift indicator\harness is different, however there is a bolt hole that can be tapped to fit in the tt250 harness, however im not sure if it fits. On that note im not sure it even matters because they should be the same (1,2,3,4,5,N) save the wire color coding. Just to be safe i had them fix my order and send out the indicator\Harness with the order as with the O ring it was only 5.36USD.

[NzBrakelathes]

Sounds like a hard way of doing it - what you trying to achieve?

[SensuBeanCartel]

I have Heated oxford grips, the digital cluster, every light on the bike is an LED, a volt meter\ two port charger, NoKo Battery indicator, a higher output CDI, mirrors with turn signals, An extremely loud car horn, and some other electronics that escape my memory ATM.
The harness is already out, wasnt difficult. I already replaced the stator, going to ace tomorrow to get a bolt that matches the flywheel bolt but is larger in length (to remove the flywheel).
Mainly was asking if anyone else has done this so I could order anything else i needed in advance, my R\R went out on me anyways, and i needed the extra output from the TT250 stator.


BTW even with a completely failing bloated lithium battery I could still manage to get the bike started every time and it got me home, 8000 miles or so and its never let me down (completely).

[NzBrakelathes]

I have Heated oxford grips, the digital cluster, every light on the bike is an LED, a volt meter\ two port charger, NoKo Battery indicator, a higher output CDI, mirrors with turn signals, An extremely loud car horn, and some other electronics that escape my memory ATM.
The harness is already out, wasnt difficult. I already replaced the stator, going to ace tomorrow to get a bolt that matches the flywheel bolt but is larger in length (to remove the flywheel).
Mainly was asking if anyone else has done this so I could order anything else i needed in advance, my R\R went out on me anyways, and i needed the extra output from the TT250 stator.


BTW even with a completely failing bloated lithium battery I could still manage to get the bike started every time and it got me home, 8000 miles or so and its never let me down (completely).

Hawks run on AC power so no battery needed
TT uses DC from battery

I’d suggest leave stock harness in, connect 3 yellow wires to the TT regulate and connect others to the loom color by color
Pick up connect to stock plug and use a universal CDI or just take red white wire and connect to dc if TT CDI plugs in to hawk loom

[NzBrakelathes]

TT has a rather different light switch or rh side switch set up
That might cause you confusion too
Even swapping all that you’ll also need a throttle cable etc
I’m kinda seeing other issues in doing the loom, best get terminals n stuff to add TT stator to hawk Harness

[SensuBeanCartel]

Not quite following, Is the throttle cable off the RH switch assembly rather then the mirrors? throttle cables 8 dollars, not a bad investment if thats the case.
Hawk if im not mistaken uses a single phase r\r while the other is a 3 stage as well. I appreciate the input, ill look into the handlebar switches, throttle cables cheap anyways. Not really trying to continue to splice the crap outta the used harness that has melted in some spots, and wiring a 3 phase regulator to a 1 phase set up though.

[SensuBeanCartel]

I also need the extra wattage, so if you could direct me into more things i can run into as a problem id appreciate it, however im not going to just use the stock harness, its gone, its out, deleted. The issue isnt a CDI either its the stator that will not work at all with the flywheel or harness on the hawk.

[OneLeggedRider]

So you're replacing the stator and flywheel with a TT250 setup? It was my understanding that both were physically too big for the Hawk motor. I'm looking forward to seeing your results.

[SensuBeanCartel]

The stator fit perfectly, the flywheel from the TT250 outside diameter is 112.02mm the hawk flywheel is 111ish i believe, inside diameter varies of course to accommodate the stator, with the entire assembly in i believe it will fit, i got to pull the flywheel first then check the fit, pretty sure it will work.

[SensuBeanCartel]

Didnt even think about it, but would the FH020AA even work since this systems stator is supposed to use DC? or am i thinking about this incorrectly as its just a 3 phase AC stator?

"If the engine is not providing the appropriate output AC
voltage or the resistance between the stator leads is too high
(as measured at the connector shown earlier), there is a
problem with the stator, the engine’s internal wiring from
the stator, or the rotor.It will be necessary to remove the
left engine crankcase cover to inspect and correct "

https://www.cscmotorcycles.com/fckimages/PDF/TT250%20Service%20Manual.pdf page -109

from the csc website i believe its actually a 3 phase AC stator. makes sense since it has a higher output wattage with correlates with AC... or did i read that wrong?

[NzBrakelathes]

I also need the extra wattage, so if you could direct me into more things i can run into as a problem id appreciate it, however im not going to just use the stock harness, its gone, its out, deleted. The issue isnt a CDI either its the stator that will not work at all with the flywheel or harness on the hawk.

Correct, there are changes in plugs on harness.
Changes in Flywheel etc
Possibly stator housing is different as well
there are about 5 different stators on CG engines from about 160W,180W 200W 250W 300W.

Diameters change and then the thickness changes to add 50W extra
So 200W is a diameter and add thickness adds 50W more to get 250W
Regs differ harness connections differ, power for CDI differs between AC or DC and CDI plugs can differ.

It must be possible but how many parts and how it get modded is unknown to me sorry.

On a side note I have seen a China bike run 2 batteries stock - think that was to make up for power needed at times while other times it would charge batteries

[SensuBeanCartel]

Hundred percent right the outside diameters of the flywheels vary as wheel as the internal diameter, also the cases are probably different because of the tt250s balancer however I can’t check the fit on the flywheel/case till tomorrow night, I forgot to go to ace to get a bolt to remove the Flywheel. There’s only a slight variation of 1mm on the flywheel I don’t believe this is enough to cause any sort of rubbing in the magnet while the flywheels in

[NzBrakelathes]

Hundred percent right the outside diameters of the flywheels vary as wheel as the internal diameter, also the cases are probably different because of the tt250s balancer however I can’t check the fit on the flywheel/case till tomorrow night, I forgot to go to ace to get a bolt to remove the Flywheel. There’s only a slight variation of 1mm on the flywheel I don’t believe this is enough to cause any sort of rubbing in the magnet while the flywheels in

I'm sure theres a solution just I don't know what that is and there will be several work arounds depending on what tools skills you have etc.

[SensuBeanCartel]

IT fits :0 , i dry fitted the flywheel over the stator no clearance issues in the case. No modification necessary just need to remove your flywheel bolt and get one from ace thats super long in order to remove the original and replace it, the only thing that can go wrong is the spindle being different, however i doubt thats the case the flywheels are basically identical.

[SensuBeanCartel]

Everything’s looks to be lining up , flywheel is in, stator is in, cover is on , TDC on compression stroke holds true , everything appers to have gone right so far. Electrical harness comes in tomorrow.

[Megadan]

So far I am not shocked at all by any of this working. Then again I do more than just guess.

Good work so far.

As far as the reg/rec. is concerned, you should have 3 charge wires, power and ground. The unit the Hawk uses has 2 charge wires, power, ground, and a sense/Regulating circuit (black wire). The FH022 and most other 3 wire reg/recs are self regulating, so simply cap off the black wire to prevent it shorting. The reg/rec function will be separate from the cdi.

I am curious about the nature of the CDI of the Hawk. So many people say it's AC. but neither of my Hawks would run without a battery, which indicates a DC system. If that is the case, then that will really simplify things.

In truth, you can upgrade the stator, flywheel, and regulator/rectifier without changing anything else about the Hawk's wiring outside of a connector or two related to those systems. I wired up a 3 wire reg/rec to my last Hawk using only 2 of the 3 connections and eliminating the sense circuit and it worked just fine, just had to change connectors to suit the new reg/rec.

[SensuBeanCartel]

Yea I saw on a post you and another had done that but I didn’t wanna use the shindengen on the stock charging system , I was also worried just in case that the tt250s wiring was a little beefier or maybe better quality, but like you said it should be fine without the harness as the regulator is directly wired to the battery/stator. NZ also stated this, but I had a lot of splices and just junk in my harness.

Since the regulator pooped on me I figured eh what the hay. The bolt I needed to remove the flywheel matched the threading on the flywheel (really simple no puller needed, I just went to ace and had them size it, it’s a coarse thread can’t rember the size atm). Gearshift indicator should match but if it doesn’t I’ll just find what wires need to go where and upgrade the connectors.

I also need to solder a hole I made in my gas tank though, definitely watch the way those bolts go into the top motor mount, last time I messed with it I had them turned around and it jackhammered the thread into my tank.

I’m really excited to see what the tt250 harness looks like, I got gloves and more shop towels today as well as those new tub o towels (they work great for cleaning up tools), if anyone is super curious about anything I’ll have to eventually split the engine case back open to put a new gasket on or atleast coat the gasket so I can reuse it, at that point I can take some pictures and do some comparisons (my phone camera is broken otherwise I would’ve done it already). Super pumped for the handlebar switches too.

[SensuBeanCartel]

I probably should go with an 8 gauge ground too huh? The 10g I put in was a lot better but I think some solid 8g would do it justice.

[NzBrakelathes]

So far I am not shocked at all by any of this working. Then again I do more than just guess.

Good work so far.

As far as the reg/rec. is concerned, you should have 3 charge wires, power and ground. The unit the Hawk uses has 2 charge wires, power, ground, and a sense/Regulating circuit (black wire). The FH022 and most other 3 wire reg/recs are self regulating, so simply cap off the black wire to prevent it shorting. The reg/rec function will be separate from the cdi.

I am curious about the nature of the CDI of the Hawk. So many people say it's AC. but neither of my Hawks would run without a battery, which indicates a DC system. If that is the case, then that will really simplify things.

In truth, you can upgrade the stator, flywheel, and regulator/rectifier without changing anything else about the Hawk's wiring outside of a connector or two related to those systems. I wired up a 3 wire reg/rec to my last Hawk using only 2 of the 3 connections and eliminating the sense circuit and it worked just fine, just had to change connectors to suit the new reg/rec.


Hawk TBR7 or any small 8 pole 2 charge wire and red white strip wire is AC
Trust me, pull ignition barrel plug n kick start it you’ll see.

DC CDI typically only uses 5 wire one missing from 2 pin plug and the other is black being dc ign on.
AC has wire to kill switch and red with white is the ac 75v or so power from stator to run cdi

[SensuBeanCartel]

everything has lined up great, definitely need the tt250 harness if you go to use the handlebar switch assemblies as the wires from those are a freaking nightmare if you try and connect them yourself. Otherwise definitely do not need the tt250 harness if your just upgrading the stator\flywheel and regulator\rectifier, however the tt250 is alot nicer, the fuse location, the routing, cable management. Im not at all upset that i got the harness, and the few times i got scared about stuff its because i had extra parts from my last harness lying around. The grounds are alot nicer on the TT250 harness as well.

You have to take out the neutral wire from the pigtail and just re insert it into the pigtail you already wired for your digital cluster, and the 4 wire pigtail coming from the dash cluster has to be redone, even though the TT250 has the same wires at that point the connectors used are different as the spades in the hawk harness were bigger. Trying to find exactly what those wires from the cluster are, think its ignition related.

Some of the wires dont match even from the tt250 harness going to the TT250 parts (handle switch assemblies dont match color lol) so im not too worried, but one connector from the tt250 harness to the dash cluster matches color but is mismatched in terms of where they go, im going to definetly look this one up before i fire it up in case i have to move the wires around in the connector but it could be just like the handlebars, just the way it is.


Also theres another 4 way connect coming from the tt250 harness for the lights, which is different from the hawk however (3 way connector), not too difficult there, im gonna wire the ignition to the running light like i had it before on the hawk harness but im going to do it cleaner. I think what they did was just eliminate some of the butt connectors used by the hawk.

[SensuBeanCartel]

the 6 way connector are for the cluster, neutral, turn signals, that stuff. Theres one color difference between the two bikes on that note black and brown. i believe this is the power wire for the brakes. the tt250 wiring diagram is wayyyyyy off. Im gonna color code the that panel appropriately since the hawks wires corresponded correctly there, and the only difference between the two is the brake light color code. I believe they made the wiring diagram before they updated the cluster, also some of looks to be generic since it applies to the hawk and not the harness i got.

https://www.cscmotorcycles.com/fckimages/PDF/TT250%20Service%20Manual.pdf

[SensuBeanCartel]

turns out its shouldnt matter, those two and probably more from what it looked like (about 5 wires daisy chained) are just common grounds. so the brown brake light ground and the other black grounding wire can be placed in whatever two spots are left.

edit: common power wires apparently, WTH? could they have not used red? since the wiring for this harness doesn't even necessarily match what they have on their maintenance manual, or diagram its pretty confusing. however it shows blacks connecting to red and the positive side of the battery, with green being the ground wires in that section of the harness.

[NzBrakelathes]

turns out its shouldnt matter, those two and probably more from what it looked like (about 5 wires daisy chained) are just common grounds. so the brown brake light ground and the other black grounding wire can be placed in whatever two spots are left.

edit: common power wires apparently, WTH? could they have not used red? since the wiring for this harness doesn't even necessarily match what they have on their maintenance manual, or diagram its pretty confusing. however it shows blacks connecting to red and the positive side of the battery, with green being the ground wires in that section of the harness.

Black is ignition 12v
Brown park lamp
The bikes use same generic colors

[SensuBeanCartel]

yea mostly, some are different though like the brake lamp is black and green\white and the one that i have is brown\green. Funny the only light i think i didnt upgrade to the tt250 lights previously were the headlamp (since it isnt LED anyways) and the tailight. All my turn signals are the LEDS from the tt250 and have been for a while, they were color coded the same funny enough.

Throttle cable is in from the tt250, i like it more than the stock cable, and since its in the control switch housing its neater. The freeplay is a little off, however it was with my previous set up since the Nibbi carb i have on there is mounted slightly differently. I also like that there is more throttle cable or atleast a better adjustment with the tt250.

All the wiring is almost done, just gotta make sure the correct wiring for the brakes, and i havent gotten to putting in my battery and key yet, still doing cable management. The gaskets suprisingly work for the tt250 on the left side crank case, which is freaking amazing since theyre so cheap (i ordered 5). I need to go ahead and bust the thing open again, make sure the screws are correct (i used a cardboard template but it fell down, and two screws are in fact larger than the others). I also need to clean up everything and make sure it has no grit, ill be doing this with white coffee filters since they are super clean, leave no lint, and they reveal any dirt or grime that you wipe.

Also where the instrument cluster connected to the crank sense trigger wires and stuff, i went ahead and added a two way female bullett connectors instead of that slice and splice thing, i did this to several wires that needed it. Looks alot more clean, and its a better connection, I could've also done this for the mirror turn signals as well for easy and quick disconnect, but i wasn't too worried about that.

[SensuBeanCartel]

I had to re wire the the entire left hand switch assembly the pigtails did not match at all, had my horn being turned on with the hazard switch and the blinkers were switched. Cant believe that happened since the wire harness and lights are all from CSC, must of been an oversight. Fixed the wiring and everything is better, although i dont like not having an on\off switch for the lights.

I changed the connector for the left hand switch since it was wrong anyways into a 9 pin connector, i left the white off which is the headlamp power (i believe) and daisy chained it to a weatherproof on\off button. Im going to trace the running wire for the 3 pin connector on the tail light and do the same. I dont mind the little parking lamp\running light lamp always being on, so that is going to get left alone.

[SensuBeanCartel]

Everything's up an running, I thought I made an error when i soldered the lug terminals for the battery, but i forgot to completely tighten my ground and the electricity was shunted through the system, no harm done I tightened the ground and all is well.

Everything works, the new throttle cable is awesome, same with the switches, I love having a hazard switch, and the two weatherproof buttons I added turn the headlight and tail light off. Bike starts up sooooooooooo clean and everything just sounds better.

OMG take that back, it was the crappy $#%$#%#$% battery tender battery. My old lithium battery went out and i got the new battery tender upgraded version (less CCA, but they added a BMS) the bms was going bonkers, and the stupid reset switch is attached to some nasty looking battery tender cable charger that i didn't need, and it was tripping itself without the stupid cable. guess ill have two charging ports now since my noko battery indicator has been on there for quite some time and its attached to my dash already.

[OneLeggedRider]

Very impressive and I wouldn't mind seeing some pics if you get time. Do you think the bigger flywheel is heavier, like when you wrap on the throttle?

[SensuBeanCartel]

Sorry for the late reply , no issues at all with the throttle,and the two flywheels seemed comprable in weight, so much so I didn’t weigh them. Everything works flawlessly, I figured out the weird issues in the wiring (some stuff being backwards), and I feel like it really helped make my throttle more crisp especially with the new cables and throttle housing from the tt250