durtyrice
01-13-2020, 07:00 PM
Hello all,
Figured I would just compile my journey into one thread. Hopefully, this will help a future noob out so he doesn't have to do 20+ hours of wasted research and 20+ hours of tinkering! At this point I'm still not able to get it to ride, but the journey is close. REALLL close.
Okay, so I bought a used BD125-11 (ninja clone) with 300 miles on it on December 26. I have no motorcycle experience whatsoever, and my tool proficiency is questionable at best. BUT, I've learned a lot. This forum has helped a lot. I've lost a ton of screws, nuts, 10mm sockets, my sanity etc. but I still have a few days of tinkering left in me. I've always wanted to own a motorcycle and here's my chance * (I work 12-13 hours a day, 7 days a week and my garage doesn't have any light so I've been trying to fix this #### every single night since the 26th with a cell phone light in one hand and tool in the other) ANYWAYS let's begin.
The day after I bought the bike I was riding it around the neighborhood and it would often just sputter and stall at random times. The next day, the motorcycle wouldn't start at all. After doing some research, many people suggested an upgrade to a Mikuni carb for performance and for the fuel/air screw and idle screw.
https://www.amazon.com/VM22-26mm-Carburetor-Carb-CRF70/dp/B07HNW4QC6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=mikuni+carb&qid=1578957164&sr=8-4
Okay, great. So I get it installed. I'm hit with some confusion. The stock intake manifold has a nipple with a hose going to it.. but the Mikuni intake manifold does not.
https://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p392/dkimoh1/EGR%20SILVER%20BOX_zpsqv2vpmi4.jpg (https://s345.photobucket.com/user/dkimoh1/media/EGR%20SILVER%20BOX_zpsqv2vpmi4.jpg.html)
Hmm... Okay. I post about it and get some help from this forum. Turns out the silver box has something to do with emissions and long story short, I don't have emissions in my state so I can just remove it.
EXTRA: There was a hose that went from the top of the engine to the stock airbox. I wasn't sure what to do with it after upgrading to mikuni carb, so I just plugged it. Picture of the hose with yellow clamp
https://s345.photobucket.com/user/dkimoh1/media/engine%2520air%2520hose_zpsnpgcrkof.jpg.html?sort= 3&o=0
****EDIT!!: Don't plug this hose that comes from the top of the engine to the stock air filter.
"That hose has to breathe. It is designed to allow pressure out of the bottom end of the engine; if the hose is plugged, pressure will find another way out and that usually results in an oil leak. Route the hose behind the engine and point it at the ground at the very least. Ensure it is not plugged." Thanks Weldangrind!!
One of the hoses coming out of this silver emissions box goes to the front of the engine. With my limited knowledge I figured that a hole where a hose and gasket used to be wasn't good, so I asked this forum. A member of this forum suggested I buy a Universal EGR Block off plate for a GY6, and he told me it would fit my BD125-11. Off to Ebay I go. Four days later I go to see if it fit. It did.
OKAY. Good start. Intake manifold nipple crisis averted. I go to install my new mikuni carb.. It doesn't fit. @#$@#$@#@$. Okay, so after some research and forum posts, people have bought something called a Carb Spinner Adapter to fix their issue. Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Alloy-Adjuster-Carburetor-Spinner-Adaptor/dp/B078NTH4YX?th=1
I wait two days and it arrives. Uh oh, no screws. After multiple trips to multiple different Home Depots, I settled with a M6-1.0 screw. You want to be at around 20-25mm in length. The 30mm M6-1.0 screws will NOT work. Don't even try with the 12mm because it won't even clear the O ring. The M6 home depot screws don't sit perfectly flush with the carb spinner, so I had to buy a dremel and see if I can get the screws to seat properly. At this point I'm 90% sure the grinded down screws are not the cause of a vacuum leak (more on this later) After further research a respected member from this forum suggested buying a new 26mm carb spinner but the one without an o-ring and with the supplied screws. It ships out of China, so that's what I'm currently waiting on now.
Anywho, at this point I'm super excited and finally got my carb spinner and mikuni carb installed. I can't get the bike to start. After some research, I learn about fuel, compression and spark. I buy a new spark plug, and go to check out the gas. There's a BUNCH of rust. I go buy two gallons of evaporust on Amazon. I pour it in, then find out that I have a 4 gallon tank. Oof. Each gallon is roughly 25 bucks so I'm SOL. A member from this forum suggests electrolysis. A few hours of research later I go buy a steel plate from Home Depot, and a battery charger. After two days of electrolysis, I'm feeling good.
This black canister had two hoses that attached to the bottom of my gas tank. Supposedly it's better to leave them attached to the gas tank for better MPG, but I left them unplugged for now since I didn't want to deal with it. The two nipples at bottom of my tank have hoses that go nowhere for now.
https://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p392/dkimoh1/Black%20cylinder_zps8nvhsrtl.jpg (https://s345.photobucket.com/user/dkimoh1/media/Black%20cylinder_zps8nvhsrtl.jpg.html)
FINALLY, rust is gone. Carb is installed. FRESH gas is in.. She starts.. but idles extremely high 7-8k rpm range. Oh no. The idle screw does nothing to the idle. Even with the idle screw completely off the rpm doesn't go down.
This is what I'm currently stuck on. I'm hoping that it's a leak somewhere between the carb to manifold, or manifold to engine since that's the only part I've been working on.. but I'm not quite sure how I would check that. As soon as I turn on the bike it idles at 7-8k rpm and I'm worried. I know that I've seated the throttle cable needle correctly to the carb itself. The throttle is not sticking. I have no 'play' in my throttle though. The throttle cable itself is not pinched. Not sure if that would affect the high RPM or not. I think this is indicative of a air leak but I need some advice. The ONLY thing right now that I could see being the cause of the leak if the grinded down screws... but it's unlikely. I can't do anything about the screws until the kit ships from China. Any suggestions?
Figured I would just compile my journey into one thread. Hopefully, this will help a future noob out so he doesn't have to do 20+ hours of wasted research and 20+ hours of tinkering! At this point I'm still not able to get it to ride, but the journey is close. REALLL close.
Okay, so I bought a used BD125-11 (ninja clone) with 300 miles on it on December 26. I have no motorcycle experience whatsoever, and my tool proficiency is questionable at best. BUT, I've learned a lot. This forum has helped a lot. I've lost a ton of screws, nuts, 10mm sockets, my sanity etc. but I still have a few days of tinkering left in me. I've always wanted to own a motorcycle and here's my chance * (I work 12-13 hours a day, 7 days a week and my garage doesn't have any light so I've been trying to fix this #### every single night since the 26th with a cell phone light in one hand and tool in the other) ANYWAYS let's begin.
The day after I bought the bike I was riding it around the neighborhood and it would often just sputter and stall at random times. The next day, the motorcycle wouldn't start at all. After doing some research, many people suggested an upgrade to a Mikuni carb for performance and for the fuel/air screw and idle screw.
https://www.amazon.com/VM22-26mm-Carburetor-Carb-CRF70/dp/B07HNW4QC6/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=mikuni+carb&qid=1578957164&sr=8-4
Okay, great. So I get it installed. I'm hit with some confusion. The stock intake manifold has a nipple with a hose going to it.. but the Mikuni intake manifold does not.
https://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p392/dkimoh1/EGR%20SILVER%20BOX_zpsqv2vpmi4.jpg (https://s345.photobucket.com/user/dkimoh1/media/EGR%20SILVER%20BOX_zpsqv2vpmi4.jpg.html)
Hmm... Okay. I post about it and get some help from this forum. Turns out the silver box has something to do with emissions and long story short, I don't have emissions in my state so I can just remove it.
EXTRA: There was a hose that went from the top of the engine to the stock airbox. I wasn't sure what to do with it after upgrading to mikuni carb, so I just plugged it. Picture of the hose with yellow clamp
https://s345.photobucket.com/user/dkimoh1/media/engine%2520air%2520hose_zpsnpgcrkof.jpg.html?sort= 3&o=0
****EDIT!!: Don't plug this hose that comes from the top of the engine to the stock air filter.
"That hose has to breathe. It is designed to allow pressure out of the bottom end of the engine; if the hose is plugged, pressure will find another way out and that usually results in an oil leak. Route the hose behind the engine and point it at the ground at the very least. Ensure it is not plugged." Thanks Weldangrind!!
One of the hoses coming out of this silver emissions box goes to the front of the engine. With my limited knowledge I figured that a hole where a hose and gasket used to be wasn't good, so I asked this forum. A member of this forum suggested I buy a Universal EGR Block off plate for a GY6, and he told me it would fit my BD125-11. Off to Ebay I go. Four days later I go to see if it fit. It did.
OKAY. Good start. Intake manifold nipple crisis averted. I go to install my new mikuni carb.. It doesn't fit. @#$@#$@#@$. Okay, so after some research and forum posts, people have bought something called a Carb Spinner Adapter to fix their issue. Something like this
https://www.amazon.com/Alloy-Adjuster-Carburetor-Spinner-Adaptor/dp/B078NTH4YX?th=1
I wait two days and it arrives. Uh oh, no screws. After multiple trips to multiple different Home Depots, I settled with a M6-1.0 screw. You want to be at around 20-25mm in length. The 30mm M6-1.0 screws will NOT work. Don't even try with the 12mm because it won't even clear the O ring. The M6 home depot screws don't sit perfectly flush with the carb spinner, so I had to buy a dremel and see if I can get the screws to seat properly. At this point I'm 90% sure the grinded down screws are not the cause of a vacuum leak (more on this later) After further research a respected member from this forum suggested buying a new 26mm carb spinner but the one without an o-ring and with the supplied screws. It ships out of China, so that's what I'm currently waiting on now.
Anywho, at this point I'm super excited and finally got my carb spinner and mikuni carb installed. I can't get the bike to start. After some research, I learn about fuel, compression and spark. I buy a new spark plug, and go to check out the gas. There's a BUNCH of rust. I go buy two gallons of evaporust on Amazon. I pour it in, then find out that I have a 4 gallon tank. Oof. Each gallon is roughly 25 bucks so I'm SOL. A member from this forum suggests electrolysis. A few hours of research later I go buy a steel plate from Home Depot, and a battery charger. After two days of electrolysis, I'm feeling good.
This black canister had two hoses that attached to the bottom of my gas tank. Supposedly it's better to leave them attached to the gas tank for better MPG, but I left them unplugged for now since I didn't want to deal with it. The two nipples at bottom of my tank have hoses that go nowhere for now.
https://i345.photobucket.com/albums/p392/dkimoh1/Black%20cylinder_zps8nvhsrtl.jpg (https://s345.photobucket.com/user/dkimoh1/media/Black%20cylinder_zps8nvhsrtl.jpg.html)
FINALLY, rust is gone. Carb is installed. FRESH gas is in.. She starts.. but idles extremely high 7-8k rpm range. Oh no. The idle screw does nothing to the idle. Even with the idle screw completely off the rpm doesn't go down.
This is what I'm currently stuck on. I'm hoping that it's a leak somewhere between the carb to manifold, or manifold to engine since that's the only part I've been working on.. but I'm not quite sure how I would check that. As soon as I turn on the bike it idles at 7-8k rpm and I'm worried. I know that I've seated the throttle cable needle correctly to the carb itself. The throttle is not sticking. I have no 'play' in my throttle though. The throttle cable itself is not pinched. Not sure if that would affect the high RPM or not. I think this is indicative of a air leak but I need some advice. The ONLY thing right now that I could see being the cause of the leak if the grinded down screws... but it's unlikely. I can't do anything about the screws until the kit ships from China. Any suggestions?