Just took delivery of my new Venom X22R...

[Chrisguga]

It looks to be in perfect condition. So far I’m absolutely thrilled with Venom’s customer service and product. I had to rush back to work, but here are a few pics of the bike and my new helmet.

[JerryHawk250]

:tup:You know you're not going to get any work done now. :hehe: Nice looking helmet too.

[Chrisguga]

Hah, I’m rushing out as quickly as possible. I work all weekend too so I won’t get to play with the bike until Monday evening.

I’ll get it off of the pallet and into my sunroom before I head out of town tonight. It’s a really gorgeous bike and looks even better in person than I expected.

Thanks for all of your help along the way, JerryHawk250. I’ll definitely want to pick your brain some more in the future too.

[JerryHawk250]

Yes it looks better and sounds better in person. :tup:I see your kick stand hangs low too. Easy fix with a grinder or rotary tool. Have fun and enjoy.

[Chrisguga]

Yes it looks better and sounds better in person. :tup:I see your kick stand hangs low too. Easy fix with a grinder or rotary tool. Have fun and enjoy.

Yep, I saw your fix for that on YouTube and I’m definitely planning on doing it Monday.

[Megadan]

Great choice on the Helmet. The EXO R420 is one of the best budget helmets on the market.

[Chrisguga]

Great choice on the Helmet. The EXO R420 is one of the best budget helmets on the market.

Thanks. Either you or JerryHawk250 suggested it.

It feels like a higher quality helmet than the Shoei I had back in 2005 or so, possibly just due to more modern technologies and materials.

Now I’m looking into an Aerostich R3 1 piece suit for my frequent ~1 hour commutes. It seems like an excellent quality suit that’s easy on/off.

I also have an Alpine Star textile jacket with armored chest, back, elbows, and forearms and some leather gloves on the way.

[Megadan]

Thanks. Either you or JerryHawk250 suggested it.

It feels like a higher quality helmet than the Shoei I had back in 2005 or so, possibly just due to more modern technologies and materials.

Now I’m looking into an Aerostich R3 1 piece suit for my frequent ~1 hour commutes. It seems like an excellent quality suit that’s easy on/off.

I also have an Alpine Star textile jacket with armored chest, back, elbows, and forearms and some leather gloves on the way.

That Aerostich suit is 1200 bucks. One heck of an investment.

[culcune]

Please get some baseline numbers, stock, before mods, unless you really need the bike to be up to commuting duties right away and mods are warranted for such duty.

[Psomniferum]

Was only last year I took delivery of my x22https://www.chinariders.net/images/icons/cry23.gif Only had it for a few days before it was stolen! Be sure you do something to lock it. I parked outside a store to do some shopping. Someone kicked it out of gear and walked off with it. You should see it now, started a thread on my rebuild attempts. Good luck with yours, they're great little bikes! Tell Jeff at Venom I said, "Hi!"

[kirbo7106]

You have to wait until Monday?!?

There should be some rule about that! New Bike Day should be a national holiday! How are you supposed to work or let alone sleep when you have a new bike?

After watching JerryHawk250’s videos, eating might be optional!

Enjoy the Ride!

[Chrisguga]

Please get some baseline numbers, stock, before mods, unless you really need the bike to be up to commuting duties right away and mods are warranted for such duty.

I will do that. Are you mainly talking gps top speed and mpg? I don’t plan on any performance mods until I have the basics like security, phone mount, helmet lock, speedometer correction, etc. I should have plenty of opportunity to get whatever numbers you like after break-in.

And yes, I plan to get an alarm. I’ll have to look into other types of anti theft devices as well. I sold my 2003 naked Suzuki SV1000 to a guy who had it stolen within the first week. It was a great bike in fantastic shape. He emailed me after he got it home thanking me for taking such good care of it and then emailed a week later about how it was just stolen from his house.

[Chrisguga]

You have to wait until Monday?!?

There should be some rule about that! New Bike Day should be a national holiday! How are you supposed to work or let alone sleep when you have a new bike?

After watching JerryHawk250’s videos, eating might be optional!

Enjoy the Ride!

Hah, thinking about the bike sitting back home in the garage is tough! At least it gives me something to look forward to.

The Aerostich is pricey, but I’m not pulling the trigger on that just yet. I’m going to watch eBay to see if I can find the right size come up for sale on the used market for more like $600.

[Chrisguga]

I just purchased this caliper lock with alarm. Hopefully this will be a decent deterrent when I have to leave the bike outside at work, the gym, etc.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07G9XDSRC/

I swear, modding and customizing are half the fun. So far I’ve purchased the helmet lock, the caliper lock, the SpeedoDRD-U1, the charging phone mount, tank protector, and halogen bulbs so far along with maintenance items like Yamalube engine oil, chain lube, NGK spark plug, threadlocker 243, feeler gauges, and marine grease.

Anything else you all can think of I should buy?

[Megadan]

One more regular maintenance item.

Cable lubricant.

There are a bunch of options out there. This is my personal favorite/preference for many reasons. This one can will last you a very very long time too unless you go overboard.

https://www.amazon.com/PJ1-1-12-Cable-Lube-Aerosol/dp/B00HRXOGVW

Combine that with a cable lubing tool.

This style works ok, but can tend to be messy. https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0182-Cable-Luber/dp/B0012TYX9W/

This style works well, is a lot less messy, but costs more. https://www.amazon.com/Motion-Pro-08-0609-Cable-Luber/dp/B06XHLWLYB/

Advice about bike secuirty. Disc locks, etc can be somewhat effective deterrent, but a decent security chain or cable to secure it to something would be more ideal. My last hawk was simply picked up and tossed in a truck, which is one downside to these smaller lighter bikes.

[Psomniferum]

Exactly, Megadan! That's what I figured happened to MY bike! Someone just threw it in a truck. Til I watched the security footage! They had to stop me from kicking myself, guy just walks up, tugs on it, kicks it out of gear, and away he went! My bike weighs around 260lbs. wet. My buddy and I threw it in the back of the truck to take to DMV. Didn't take much...

[Chrisguga]

Ah yes, cable lube. I went ahead and bought that lube and the pricey tool. I want to get an enduro next year, probably a Brozz or the Orion, so I figure it’s worth investing in good motorcycle specific tools.

[Psomniferum]

Have you heard of a double O-ring chain? That was one of the first swaps I heard of after getting my bike. You can still lube the chain, if you wish. But I heard it's way less crucial with a double O-ring. They're better lubed to begin with and the lube stays a lot longer.

[Chrisguga]

I’ve heard of them, but also read the chain that comes stock on the bike is pretty decent. I’ll run the stock chain for a while and if I end up having to adjust it frequently, I’ll upgrade.

My next round of mods will include a 35-36 tooth rear sprocket and some sort of bag(s).

[JerryHawk250]

An o-ring chain isn't really necessary on these bikes as you're not taking this bike off road in the dirt and mud. When you do finally have to replace it then buy an o-ring chain. I have 500 miles on the stock chain and it only stretch a little within the first 20 miles or so and hasn't stretched anymore since then.

I have an o-ring chain installed on my Hawk because when I take that bike off road it gets covered in sandy mud and water. With a regular chain I would have to pull the chain after a ride in the spillway and give it a good cleaning and then soak it in gear oil afterward. With the o-ring chain I could just wash it down real good while on the bike and just spray it with chain lube afterwards.


As far as the sprocket. I think you told me you weigh a little more than I do. I think the 36 tooth might be a better choice. I do have a 34 tooth installed right now but I think I should of gone with a 35 tooth which puts me at the same gear ratio as my Hawk. I found that the 34 tooth puts the chain right on the hub and is just a little to tall for my liking. It may be okay once I do the head work. I know the engine will loosen up some more once I hit around a 1000 miles. I already have a 16 tooth and might try that one just to see how I like it for now.

[Chrisguga]

Thanks for the tip on the sprocket, Jerry. I’m 6’3” and 230lbs. Headed to get it registered now! I’m hoping to take a spin around town tonight.

I don’t want to go far until I check the valves though. I assume checking the valves with the feeler gauge is the same procedure as a Hawk? There are several videos on the Hawks, but none on this bike that I’ve seen.

[JerryHawk250]

Thanks for the tip on the sprocket, Jerry. I’m 6’3” and 230lbs. Headed to get it registered now! I’m hoping to take a spin around town tonight.

I don’t want to go far until I check the valves though. I assume checking the valves with the feeler gauge is the same procedure as a Hawk? There are several videos on the Hawks, but none on this bike that I’ve seen.
The valve adjustment procedure is a little different than the Hawk. Clearance will be the same. Do not attempt to remove the valve cover. You will have to remove the two round caps on the valve cover to access the valve adjusters. I was able to do mine without removing the tank but the intake vales are a pain to get to. If you haven't much experience in valve adjustment you will save yourself a lot of frustration by going the extra step of removing the tank. Many curse words came out my mouth only to find my valves were pretty close to spec. lol It's a good thing that tinkering around with these engine help relax my mind. :crazy: You might be okay until you get a few miles on it.
On my next oil change I will check them after I get some hours on the engine. The fairing is easy to remove and reinstall. I've probably done it 3 times already. This past weekend I removed it to replace one cracked panel that I missed when inspecting for shipping damage. Venom was quick to send out a replacement. :tup:

[Chrisguga]

The valve adjustment procedure is a little different than the Hawk. Clearance will be the same. Do not attempt to remove the valve cover. You will have to remove the two round caps on the valve cover to access the valve adjusters. I was able to do mine without removing the tank but the intake vales are a pain to get to. If you haven't much experience in valve adjustment you will save yourself a lot of frustration by going the extra step of removing the tank. Many curse words came out my mouth only to find my valves were pretty close to spec. lol It's a good thing that tinkering around with these engine help relax my mind. :crazy: You might be okay until you get a few miles on it.
On my next oil change I will check them after I get some hours on the engine. The fairing is easy to remove and reinstall. I've probably done it 3 times already. This past weekend I removed it to replace one cracked panel that I missed when inspecting for shipping damage. Venom was quick to send out a replacement. :tup:
Is removing the tank pretty straight forward? Any tips on that? I’ve never removed a motorcycle tank nor have I checked valve tolerances.

[JerryHawk250]

Is removing the tank pretty straight forward? Any tips on that? I’ve never removed a motorcycle tank nor have I checked valve tolerances.

I haven't removed the tank on this bike yet but looks like the same process as the Hawk. Shut the gas off at the petcock. That will be in the middle position. Disconnect the fuel line. Once you have the fairing removed there is a single bolt at the rear of the tank. Lift the tank up from the rear and disconnect the fuel sending unit. You should be able to lift it up and off after that. I'm not sure if the fuel over flow is connected to anything that I could see but sure you will know when you do. lol I don't know if you are planning to install an oil cooler or not but that would be the best time to do this while you have it all apart. I didn't remove my tank because I wasn't thinking and fill my tank full. :doh:

[Chrisguga]

Cool, thanks. I see you have oil coolers on both of your bikes. Obviously you feel that’s important since the oil for the engine and transmission is one in the same. I haven’t really researched oil coolers at all.

I could order the oil cooler and then install it when I do the valves. I’ll read up on them tonight.

[JerryHawk250]

Cool, thanks. I see you have oil coolers on both of your bikes. Obviously you feel that’s important since the oil for the engine and transmission is one in the same. I haven’t really researched oil coolers at all.

I could order the oil cooler and then install it when I do the valves. I’ll read up on them tonight.
It was necessary on the Hawk because of the higher compression ratio. It really extends the oil life which in turns extends the engine life. I was checking the oil yesterday and with 500 miles on it the oil hasn't changed color. It's still a nice golden brown. Before I installed an oil cooler on my hawk the oil would be black at 500 miles and this was before I did the head work. I think I paid under $60 for mine. I think it's worth it. My Hawk has over 7800 miles on it. I ran a bore scope in it about a month ago just for the heck of it and didn't see any signs of wear or scaring.

[JerryHawk250]

You might want to pick this kit up from member Nzbrakelates. it will make vale adjustment much easier on these engines. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Hawk-250-Apollo-AJP-PR3-4-Chinese-Air-cooled-Valve-adjustment-and-oil-drain/303506756191?hash=item46aa69925f:g:nSIAAOSwCVtcOuV d

[Chrisguga]

Hmm.. this is a little troubling in the gas tank.

[Chrisguga]

Damn, it’s worse off to the side. Thoughts?

[JerryHawk250]

Wow, that doesn't look good. I know I checked my tank before I put gas in it and was clean. I would send that picture to Venom.

[Chrisguga]

Yeah, this screws my potential first night getting to ride. I don’t want to put gas in it at this point.

[JerryHawk250]

Yeah. That kind of puts a damper on it. I'm sure Venom will take care of it.

[Chrisguga]

Current situation. I’ll either get a new tank from Venom or have to figure out how to fix this one. This isn’t how I expected my first “brand new” motorcycle purchase to go.

[JerryHawk250]

Now would be a good time for valve adjustment and oil cooler install. I sure Venom will take care of the tank.

[Chrisguga]

Now would be a good time for valve adjustment and oil cooler install. I sure Venom will take care of the tank.

Yes, I’m definitely getting any and all maintenance items completed while I have the plastics and tank off and await a resolution.

I see those caps that have to be removed for the valve adjustment. I bought the feeler gauges, but it looks like I might need the offset ones in order to approach from the top. I’ll know more when I pop those caps off tonight.

[JerryHawk250]

I used the regular feeler gauge though the angled ones would work better. It's a good time to do the header wrap too.

[Chrisguga]

Well, Venom tells me this is normal from test firing the motor and the rust is caused by the residual gas left in the tank.

I’m going to use oxacylic acid and water to clear out the rust and then use one of these gas tank coatings like POR15 to coat it before I reinstall it. I’ll have to figure out how to protect the electrical components in the tank during this process.

This is disappointing, but it is what it is.

[JerryHawk250]

Hopefully you can clean it out. I would avoid using a tank liner is possible and just clean it with the rust remover. Be ready to use a oil and gas mixture to coat the inside of the tank as soon as you clean it out to prevent flash rust.
Tank liners can fail and cause more issues later on. Tank liners or intended as a last resort for old tanks that have rusted through.

[JerryHawk250]

I would use Evapo-Rust Remover so you don't get the flash rust. https://www.amazon.com/Evapo-Rust-Original-contains-non-toxic-biodegradable/dp/B00M0TLQ66/

[Chrisguga]

Hopefully you can clean it out. I would avoid using a tank liner is possible and just clean it with the rust remover. Be ready to use a oil and gas mixture to coat the inside of the tank as soon as you clean it out to prevent flash rust.
Tank liners can fail and cause more issues later on. Tank liners or intended as a last resort for old tanks that have rusted through.

Man, I need to start listening to my buddy. He gave me the exact same advice on the oil and gas mixture.

Thanks for all of your help, Jerry. I’m still glad I purchased the bike, but was definitely wondering if I should have just financed a new Kawasaki Ninja1000 vs paying cash for this bike when I was out there at 11pm last night cursing the rust.

[JerryHawk250]

True story from this past weekend. I have a buddy of mine that's a diehard HD rider told me "why you buy that cheap Chinese junk?" I told him. Didn't you just pay $38,000+ for that bike you just bought? How much did it cost you when you had to take it to shop to get repaired two weeks ago? You could here crickets. :hehe: It damn near cost him as much as our bikes cost to fix. :lmao: Then I told him. Yeah my 3 year old $1100 Hawk never left me on the side of the road either. :hehe: Nuff said. :D

[Chrisguga]

I went ahead and ordered the oil cooler and set of valve adjustment tools. I hope like hell I like this bike because I sure have spent a lot on maintenance items and accessories. Well, a lot in relation to the cost of the bike.

It’s still exceptionally cheap compared to boating!

[JerryHawk250]

It’s still exceptionally cheap compared to boating!
Ain't that the truth. lol

[Chrisguga]

So tonight’s progress...

I treated the gas tank with oxacylic acid and water 3 times. This did a nice job of removing the rust. I then swished some 50:1 gas:oil mix that I use in my weed eater and blower to give the tank a light coating of oil. I did this twice and emptied the contents each time.

Here are before and after pics. I used these plugs from a car interior fastener kit to plug the holes in the bottom of the tank.

I had to use the Dremel on some of the plastic to fit one of the mirrors as the plastic was covering the threads. That’s the last pic.

[Chrisguga]

Oh yeah, the plugs. I thought it was a good idea and it worked well.

I also installed my NGK plug and changed the oil tonight. I decided to go ahead and put the plastics back on so I could ride and get 100 miles on it so when I do the valves and oil cooler, I’m ready for my next oil change. Getting the plastics back on is a bit of a pain, but I’ll be faster with it next time.

Here’s how she sits all buttoned back up.

[JerryHawk250]

So tonight’s progress...

I treated the gas tank with oxacylic acid and water 3 times. This did a nice job of removing the rust. I then swished some 50:1 gas:oil mix that I use in my weed eater and blower to give the tank a light coating of oil. I did this twice and emptied the contents each time.

Here are before and after pics. I used these plugs from a car interior fastener kit to plug the holes in the bottom of the tank.

I had to use the Dremel on some of the plastic to fit one of the mirrors as the plastic was covering the threads. That’s the last pic.
That method looks to work well. Glad you were able to get it cleaned up. I sure this will help someone else if have rust in there tank. :tup:

[JerryHawk250]

Oh yeah, the plugs. I thought it was a good idea and it worked well.

I also installed my NGK plug and changed the oil tonight. I decided to go ahead and put the plastics back on so I could ride and get 100 miles on it so when I do the valves and oil cooler, I’m ready for my next oil change. Getting the plastics back on is a bit of a pain, but I’ll be faster with it next time.

Here’s how she sits all buttoned back up.

Bike sure is pretty. Looks almost as good as mine. :hehe: I could just be bias. Removing and replacing the plastic gets much easier the 2nd go around.

[Chrisguga]

Tonight, I’ll work on loosening the chain again. I attempted to this morning and loosed the axle nut, lock nuts, and attempted to adjust the adjustment screws, but nothing I did had any effect on the chain. I’ll revisit it tonight.

My idle is also nearly 3000 rpm so I’ll need to look into turning that down.

[JerryHawk250]

The adjuster only work to take slack out of the chain. loosen the axle bolt and adjuster nuts and slide the wheel forward. lightly snug up the axle bolt and use the adjusters to remove the slack. once set then tighten up the axle bolt and lock the adjuster nuts in place.
Rpms should be around 1500 rpms at idle.

[Chrisguga]

Cool, I’ll do that.

Also, I didn’t see an obvious idle screw on the side of the carb. I’m new to carbs so it’s a learning curve for me. Is it under it?

From reading, there are idle speed and idle richness screws? You adjust the richness screw up as the idle speed increases until you reach the max and then adjust the idle speed down until 1500, correct? Where are these two screws located?

Thanks Jerry!

[JerryHawk250]

Cool, I’ll do that.

Also, I didn’t see an obvious idle screw on the side of the carb. I’m new to carbs so it’s a learning curve for me. Is it under it?

From reading, there are idle speed and idle richness screws? You adjust the richness screw up as the idle speed increases until you reach the max and then adjust the idle speed down until 1500, correct? Where are these two screws located?

Thanks Jerry!

The idle speed screw is on the right side of the carb right next to where the throttle cable attaches. It's in line with the slide of the carb. This will adjust the idle speed. DO that first.
The idle mixture is on the bottom of the carb on the engine side of the carb. There is an aluminum plug covering it that you will have to drill out. Mine popped out before I finished drilling it. I was able to do this without disconnecting the cables. My idle mixture screw was almost all the way closed. I turned it out 1 1/2 turns out from lightly seated and ran perfect.

[Chrisguga]

Perfect, thanks again for all of your help, Jerry.

I hope I can one day be a solid resource to the board as well.

[JerryHawk250]

Perfect, thanks again for all of your help, Jerry.

I hope I can one day be a solid resource to the board as well.

You already have. Your tank cleaning method seem to have done a great job. Just check your fuel filter every once in a while in case it's collecting any residue from the rust.

[Chrisguga]

I think i’ll try some handlebar risers like these. Ill need to take some measurements first. My weight is shifted too forward on my arms for comfortable riding, especially after the gym.

Rox Speed FX Pivot Handlebar 2" Riser 7/8"Handlebar Black 1R-P2SS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0052YK270/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LjJAEb951P651

Ill also need to adjust the carb a bit more. I adjusted the idle down now so that’s good, but now I’m getting a sputtering miss under load at 1/4 to 1/2 throttle in 5th gear around 50mph.

[JerryHawk250]

Yeah, you're a little taller than i am so the 2" risers should help.

You will need to adjust the idle mixture. Sounds like it's set to lean like mine was. Also i would order a set of jets. The stock carb comes with a 98 main which is on the lean side. A 105 main will probably be about right.

[Chrisguga]

The needle affects 1/4-3/4 throttle mixture, doesn’t it? I wonder if I need to try a washer or two to shim it? I will definitely order a jet kit.

[JerryHawk250]

The needle affects 1/4-3/4 throttle mixture, doesn’t it? I wonder if I need to try a washer or two to shim it? I will definitely order a jet kit. Yes but you need to get your idle mixture dialed in first.

[Chrisguga]

Ok, so tonight’s update. I did the kickstand mod and it’s now parallel to the ground when up, mounted the license plate, pulled the bars in at a steeper angle which helped the riding fatigue a bit, put some slack in the chain. It’s right at 1” or 25mm movement now. I don’t know the specs for this bike, but that seems like a good number based on other bikes.

I also tightened up the plastics a bit more because I was getting some rattles, but that’s now good. The brakes seem to be getting slightly grabbier as they break in. I do have a low speed squeak which I need to figure out. I can’t stand odd noises.

Finally, and the biggest problem at the moment, is that I couldn’t pull more than 60mph indicated today because once I was up to 60mph indicated, at approximately 6k rpms, it started missing so badly that it simply couldn’t pull past that rpm/mph.

So, obviously the carb tuning is out of wack, but I also wonder if the bit of oil I added to this first tank of fuel is fowling things up? I planned to take the bike to the girlfriend’s house an hour away this weekend, but I’m second guessing that considering I can barely run a legit 50-55 mph.

Can the idle mixture screw have any effect on higher speed power or is it simply for idle speed?

[JerryHawk250]

You should clean the brake rotors real good with brake cleaner to remove the film off. They will grab much better.

Idle mixture effects idle to 1/4 throttle. The 98 main jet is too small so you'll need to put a larger jet. The first few hundred miles the engine will be tight. It will loosen up with some miles on it. Once I got my carb dialed in I could hit 70 mph GPS confirm easily.
Stock sprocket is to low geared.

[Chrisguga]

You should clean the brake rotors real good with brake cleaner to remove the film off. They will grab much better.

Idle mixture effects idle to 1/4 throttle. The 98 main jet is too small so you'll need to put a larger jet. The first few hundred miles the engine will be tight. It will loosen up with some miles on it. Once I got my carb dialed in I could hit 70 mph GPS confirm easily.
Stock sprocket is to low geared.

I ordered that jet kit you recommended in your mods thread. I also ordered the thicker grips.

I think I’ll like the bike a lot better once I have the carb sorted out. I can barely keep up with traffic stoplight to stoplight at this point and can’t even keep up with traffic up a hill in 45 mph zones.

The motor totally falls on its face past 5000 rpm at any throttle position.

[Chrisguga]

If your bike don't have rubber washers on the plastics mounting bolts you might want to add them. They will help with the vibrations and keep them from cracking.

Hmm.. good tip. These are the first plastics I’ve ever removed on a bike so I didn’t know such a thing existed. Thank you. I’ll look into those.

[Megadan]

Getting the jetting sorted out will help a lot, but give the motor a couple hundred miles to wake up as well. You would be surprised at how big of an impact the lack of ring sealing has on the power, especially at higher RPM. Take it out for some random rides and rack up some miles on it.

Those risers you bought are similar to the ones I used on my Hawk, they will make a big difference in your ergos. Just make sure the cables and lines don't get too tight lock to lock, and that you clear the tank.

Do yourself a favor with the fuel tank and add a couple ounces of MMO to a tank once in a while. Does a good job of coating the tank and preventing rust as well as lubricating the throttle slide and needle and needle jet.

[JerryHawk250]

If your bike don't have rubber washers on the plastics mounting bolts you might want to add them. They will help with the vibrations and keep them from cracking.

That's what I did. Rubber washers for faucets in the plumbing section at Lowe's work perfect.:tup:

[Chrisguga]

So, I am here to eat my crow, get laughed at, etc...

It turns out I’ve had my choke on the whole time I’ve been complaining about not being able to get the bike past 6k rpm. It has no effect at idle so I figured maybe it didn’t work it and I just randomly left it on choke while I was fooling with other things.

I took it on my first hour long ride and randomly pushed the choke in the other direction and it started pulling rpm all the way to redline and I went from holding up traffic in a 55 mph zone to easily running a true 65mph and keeping up.

I installed the lift on my new truck myself, rebuilt my 10,000 pound boat trailer with all new hubs, bearings, disc brake to drum brake conversion, new leaf springs, surge brakes to electric over hydraulic conversion, installed new flooring in my house, etc etc etc... but screwed up the choke position on a freaking motorcycle.

So anyway, that was a huge improvement, but now after an hour long ride I really want to lower the foot pegs. That’s my next task. Anyone have any suggestions?

[JerryHawk250]

Lol, been there done that on my Hawk. I accidentally push the lever on half choke. Had me scratching my head trying figure out what I messed up.
I think lowering the pegs could be possible. I'll need to look at that .

[JerryHawk250]

Okay, I was looking at the lowering the pegs. It should be easy. You could make an adapter plate with a piece of flat bar to make the mount lower. Depending on how much adjustment you have in the shift linkage, you might have to push it a little forward too. I may do it to get a little more leg room.

[Chrisguga]

Okay, I was looking at the lowering the pegs. It should be easy. You could make an adapter plate with a piece of flat bar to make the mount lower. Depending on how much adjustment you have in the shift linkage, you might have to push it a little forward too. I may do it to get a little more leg room.

I looked at it this morning too and I worry that the exhaust may be in the way on the right side. Either way, I definitely want to adjust the brake pedal down a little as it feels a bit high. The clutch feels like it’s in a good position though.

Oh, and the oil cooler instructions are 100% in Chinese. Any tips or tricks or instructions on that install? I plan to tackle that tonight along with a few other things.

Also, I bought the grips you recommended. I can barely fit them over the bar ends, let alone the grips. Did you hear them with a heat gun or use hand sanitizer to lube them up to get them on?

[JerryHawk250]

I looked at it this morning too and I worry that the exhaust may be in the way on the right side. Either way, I definitely want to adjust the brake pedal down a little as it feels a bit high. The clutch feels like it’s in a good position though.

Oh, and the oil cooler instructions are 100% in Chinese. Any tips or tricks or instructions on that install? I plan to tackle that tonight along with a few other things.

Also, I bought the grips you recommended. I can barely fit them over the bar ends, let alone the grips. Did you hear them with a heat gun or use hand sanitizer to lube them up to get them on?

Yeah the brake side would be a little close to the exhaust. Maybe the adapter plate could be offset enough to miss the exhaust. I'm not in front of my bike right now so i'll look at it when i get home.

Easy to set up. Put the line with the filter to the port that goes to the center of the adapter. This is a suction line so you want to catch any metal shavings that could of been left behind in the cooler.

As far as the grips i put a light coat of dawn liquid soap and slid right on.

[Chrisguga]

The oil cooler is 95% installed. I plan to run to Lowe’s tomorrow to get some lock washers to secure the bolts holding the cooler to the frame instead of just using the regular washers and nuts the kit came with, but it’s fully functional otherwise and full of oil.

Jerry, I noticed you rotated your horn up and out of the way so I did the same.

Oh, and here’s my spark plug after 135 miles. It looks pretty good considering how rich I ran it for a while, imo.

[JerryHawk250]

Looks good. :tup: If you look at the video you will also noticed i removed the Secondary Air injection too. I made a block off plate out of some 1/8" aluminum i had laying around. Just remember to cap off the vacuum nipple at the intake manifold.

[Chrisguga]

Tonight I gapped the NGK plug, installed the tank protector, am currently adjusting the valves (what a pain!), and might start on rejetting the carb.

Jerry, you went with a 108 main. Did you change the pilot or adjust the needle at all?

[Chrisguga]

Valves are done.

But, in addition to the needle and pilot jet questions, anyone know where this tiny o-ring goes? It fell out while I was drilling the idle adjustment screw and I can’t figure out where it came from.

Thanks!

[franque]

Is there one on the air-idle mixture screw? There should be a spring, a washer, and then an o-ring. Otherwise the jet that's on the float bowl looks like it might be missing it's o-ring.

[Chrisguga]

Here are more angles of the carb. I need to figure out where this o-ring Goes so I can have the bike back together by tonight. I hope to have it ready to ride so I can take it out of town this weekend and get a few hundred more miles on it.

[JerryHawk250]

Tonight I gapped the NGK plug, installed the tank protector, am currently adjusting the valves (what a pain!), and might start on rejetting the carb.

Jerry, you went with a 108 main. Did you change the pilot or adjust the needle at all?

Tank protector looks good. I almost got the same one. If you didn't remove the cat i would go with the 105. leave the stock pilot in and needle on the middle slot.

[JerryHawk250]

I have no idea where that oring goes. I didn't see any orings that size when i pulled mine apart. There's one on the idle mixture screw but if you didn't pull the idle mixture screw out it wouldn't be for that. Somebody through in a mistery part to mess with your mind. lol

[Chrisguga]

Thanks Jerry. To avoid taking the needle apart, is it already in the middle position from the factory? I’d rather not risk taking it apart and struggling to get it back together if it’s not needed.

I’ll just assume that o-ring was a little gift thrown in for fun and ignore it. lol

Oh, and those hand grip covers make a nice difference in riding comfort and your Dawn dish soap trick worked great.

Dumb question, but I ran the bike with the petcock in all 3 positions for a few minutes each and the bike never did stall. I assume the tab up is run, down is reserve, and to the right is off?

I ended up just clamping the fuel line to prevent the gas in the tank from going everywhere.

[JerryHawk250]

Thanks Jerry. To avoid taking the needle apart, is it already in the middle position from the factory? I’d rather not risk taking it apart and struggling to get it back together if it’s not needed.

I’ll just assume that o-ring was a little gift thrown in for fun and ignore it. lol

Oh, and those hand grip covers make a nice difference in riding comfort and your Dawn dish soap trick worked great.

Dumb question, but I ran the bike with the petcock in all 3 positions for a few minutes each and the bike never did stall. I assume the tab up is run, down is reserve, and to the right is off?

I ended up just clamping the fuel line to prevent the gas in the tank from going everywhere.
The needles in the middle position from the factory.
Yes the grips make a difference. The throttle feels better in your hand especially if you have big hands like i do. They also reduce vibration. I have them on my Hawk too.

The lever end down is run, Middle off and up is reserve.

[Chrisguga]

Great, thanks again Jerry. And yeah, I have huge hands.

I’m also considering getting some weighted bar ends to reduce the vibrations even further. I’ll let everyone know what I get and how well they work.

[JerryHawk250]

Great, thanks again Jerry. And yeah, I have huge hands.

I’m also considering getting some weighted bar ends to reduce the vibrations even further. I’ll let everyone know what I get and how well they work.
Whenever you change the rear sprocket you will notice a big reduction in vibration. The engine won't be revving so high when cruising 55-60 mph.

[Chrisguga]

Whenever you change the rear sprocket you will notice a big reduction in vibration. The engine won't be revving so high when cruising 55-60 mph.

That’s definitely next on my list. I need to go ahead and order the sprocket so it’s ready to go when I have time to install it.

[JerryHawk250]

That’s definitely next on my list. I need to go ahead and order the sprocket so it’s ready to go when I have time to install it.
You will be amazed how much different the bike will feel. I did the same on my Hawk. That thing was geared to climb trees. lol

[Chrisguga]

Tonight, I have the carb back on and I think everything went back together correctly. I went with the 105 jet per Jerry’s suggestion with my otherwise stock bike.

I also installed the phone holder with charger. It won’t charge through my case apparently, but I just ordered a 5 pack of black 6” charge cables so I can charge my phone on the run if needed. I can just plug one into this charge port on the side of the holder and underneath into my phone.

I also readjusted the brake and clutch levers to as low a position as possible without hitting the windshield and tightened up the clutch adjustment a bit to remove some slack.

I’m going to install the Speedo DRD next. Jerry, do you have any pictures of the wire location you tapped for this? Apparently one wire goes to power, ground, and then signal in and out.

Thanks!

[JerryHawk250]

I don't remember the colors of the wires but can check tomorrow after I get off work if you need me to. I used a volt meter to determine which was positive and negative. The remaining wire will be the signal wire. That's the only wire you need to cut. The power and ground I just stripped the plastic coating and crimped the bullet connectors on.

[Chrisguga]

Where is the wire located? I can’t even figure that out with any certainty. lol

[JerryHawk250]

Where is the wire located? I can’t even figure that out with any certainty. lol
Just follow the wire up from the speed sensor on the left side of the front wheel.

[JerryHawk250]

https://youtu.be/CiE0JifqkFw

[Chrisguga]

Gotcha. That was my thought as well, but I only saw one black wire. I guess I need to strip that back to expose the different colored wires.

[JerryHawk250]

Gotcha. That was my thought as well, but I only saw one black wire. I guess I need to strip that back to expose the different colored wires.
The wires are exposed under the dash at the speedometer connector.

[Chrisguga]

Are you accessing that by removing the dash cluster? Coming in from underneath? What’s the best route?

[JerryHawk250]

Are you accessing that by removing the dash cluster? Coming in from underneath? What’s the best route? I did mine when I had the side panels off. You might be able to reach in from underneath and unplug it from the cluster.

[Chrisguga]

I gave up on it for last night, but you actually unplug a plug from the cluster, splice it, and then plug the plug back in?

I’m debating whether I want to further take apart the front plastics on the bike or save that for when I replace the headlight bulbs in the next week or two.

[JerryHawk250]

I gave up on it for last night, but you actually unplug a plug from the cluster, splice it, and then plug the plug back in?

I’m debating whether I want to further take apart the front plastics on the bike or save that for when I replace the headlight bulbs in the next week or two.
Yes, that's what i did. If i were you i would wait till you do the bulbs. It would be much easier and less stressful. lol

[Chrisguga]

So I’m not sure what I installed incorrectly, but when I first tried to fire the engine, it rev’d to redline without any throttle input and I had to hit the kill switch to shut off the engine.

The throttle feels like there’s no tension when applying throttle, but the cable moves the piece on the carb like it appears it should.

It acts like the throttle is wide open, but I have no idea why.

:edit: Here is the position with the throttle closed and open.

It definitely feels like much less tension when I twist the throttle, but I don’t know why.

[Chrisguga]

I’m going to leave my mistake up here in hopes it helps another newbie working on their carb for the first time.

It turns out I haphazardly put the needle back down in the carb and didn’t line up the slot on the needle cylinder with the tab in the carb. It was holding the throttle wide open as a result.

Here’s a picture of the protrusion down in the carb and the slot in the needle you have to line up with it. Now all is good except that phone charger is apparently draining my battery so I’ll have to recharge it and put a quick connect on one of the connections for the phone charger.

[JerryHawk250]

You won't be the first to make that mistake.
There is a switch to turn off the USB port right next to the port.

[Chrisguga]

Ah, thank you Jerry for the phone holder tip.

Also, for those asking about relatively stock performance, I hit 67 mph on the gps at 8k rpms tucked down out of the wind and I either hit a rev limiter or was at the limit of that 105 jet as it started cutting out and wouldn’t pull past 8k.

[JerryHawk250]

Ah, thank you Jerry for the phone holder tip.

Also, for those asking about relatively stock performance, I hit 67 mph on the gps at 8k rpms tucked down out of the wind and I either hit a rev limiter or was at the limit of that 105 jet as it started cutting out and wouldn’t pull past 8k.
Rev limiter is well pass 8k. Mine will turn 10k . It sounds like it's a tad rich. Go down to the next size you have.

[franque]

Just so I'm clear, did you install the piston backwards? So that it was wide open?

[Chrisguga]

I guess you could say it was backwards. I had it rotated incorrectly so the spring was compressed and the needle was pulled out which effectively applied full throttle.

[JerryHawk250]

Chris,
Do you plan on removing the catalytic converter? That's one thing that really help these bikes breathe better.

[Chrisguga]

Chris,
Do you plan on removing the catalytic converter? That's one thing that really help these bikes breathe better.

I plan to eventually. I can’t weld, or at least I never have, so I’ll save that project for the winter when I shave and port the head and buy the aftermarket carb, intake, and air filter.

I’d just hate for the bike to be down for a few weeks while I do all of this during good riding weather.

I wonder if I could remove the exhaust and knock the cat out with a pipe cleaner or drain clearing device. Just how sturdy is the cat?

[Chrisguga]

And truthfully, I’m waiting for you to do it so I can have some instruction on removing the head. I’d probably go ahead and knock it out during a week and weekend if I felt confident in the procedure.

[JerryHawk250]

I plan to eventually. I can’t weld, or at least I never have, so I’ll save that project for the winter when I shave and port the head and buy the aftermarket carb, intake, and air filter.

I’d just hate for the bike to be down for a few weeks while I do all of this during good riding weather.

I wonder if I could remove the exhaust and knock the cat out with a pipe cleaner or drain clearing device. Just how sturdy is the cat?

It's pretty tough. You're not going to knock it out. Not the best way to do this but you could always cut it and use a short piece of pipe and clamp it back together. Another option is to take it to a local muffler shop and pay them to weld it back. I've tried looking for an after market header pipe that would work. I would like to change it out to stainless steel. I'm sure i'll run across one eventually.

[Chrisguga]

Yeah, I might take it to a muffler shop. I’m sure that would be a very easy job for them, or for slightly more money I could just buy a decent Harbor a Freight welder and teach myself.

I bought their cheap flux wire welder, but after playing with it, I have very little faith in its ability to create an effective weld.

[JerryHawk250]

I have a very old Harbor Freight Mig welder that still works great. Too bad they don't sell that model anymore. It was made in Italy and not China. lol

I think this header pipe would work but would still have to add length to the pipe. I haven't given up hope on finding the right one but when i do i'll be sure to post it.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000117319916.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.10.729 d2547xwFjUF&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.13338.141931.0&scm_id=1007.13338.141931.0&scm-url=1007.13338.141931.0&pvid=81339df4-0fd5-4076-ab11-c255ea19b9d4

[JerryHawk250]

Yeah, I might take it to a muffler shop. I’m sure that would be a very easy job for them, or for slightly more money I could just buy a decent Harbor a Freight welder and teach myself.

I bought their cheap flux wire welder, but after playing with it, I have very little faith in its ability to create an effective weld.

If you decide to buy another flux core welder just make sure it is DC. AC isn't worth a darn for flux core welding. There are Youtube videos on how to convert the cheap AC one to DC. Don't use the cheap Harbor Freight wire either. It's only for single pass and not multiple passes. The GS designation is for single pass and -11 is for multi pass. Makes a big difference.

[Chrisguga]

Gotcha, I’ll look into converting mine to DC and if it works, I’ll buy some -11 rated wire.

[JerryHawk250]

I'm temped to try if i can find one cheap enough to experiment with. The exhaust for the Pre-2016 Honda CBR150R might be a close match. https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000344652954.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.4d232 9eaVUnFfI&algo_pvid=ca133d9c-0cdb-461b-b048-1d76bb531d07&algo_expid=ca133d9c-0cdb-461b-b048-1d76bb531d07-0&btsid=0ab50f4415850848919977772eccbc&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb 201603_

[Chrisguga]

So for tonight’s work on the bike... I readjusted the clutch lever. I adjusted it out to where it was releasing right at the end of its travel. No good. Now it’s back to the factory spec.

I bought new handgrips because I slightly tore one of them during installation and now my left sided grip is free spinning. I broke some sort of mechanism in there. I’ll take the bar end off and see if I can figure it out and if not, I’ll try to drill a small hole in the bottom of the grip and drive a small stainless screw up in there to hold it in place.

I also rechecked the valves because they seemed noisier than I thought they should. The intake was perfect, but the exhaust was really loose. I don’t think it came loose, but rather I did a poor job adjusting them the first time. I have it right at 0.005 now.

Finally, I switched to the 100 jet and was able to increase my top speed from 67 on the gps to 71 by pulling to 8500 rpm rather than 8000. It still started to show signs of stumbling and running rich and just wouldn’t pull more rpm than that. Maybe I have a weak motor that did well with the 98 factory jet. I made small screwdriver indentions in the lateral parts of the jet head when I first removed it, but I guess I’ll try to reinstall it and see what happens.

I also adjusted the idle mixture screw and I’m very happy with my idle now. It settles in very nicely at 1500 and is nice and snappy off idle.

Thoughts on the jetting and the free spinning left handlebar grip?

[JerryHawk250]

I don't know what elevation you are at. With the cat still in the 98 may be good. Once you open up the exhaust and intake you will need to up the main jet. The more mile you get the better it will run. The smaller rear sprocket is going to make big difference.

[Chrisguga]

I’m in Thomasville, GA which is just 279’ elevation.

The problem with the smaller sprocket, is that I don’t have the power to pull redline with the deeper geared sprocket. The taller gearing will require more power to pul redline. I’m going to sort out getting this thing to 10k rpm before I change the sprocket as I already have trouble maintaining speed up small hills.

[JerryHawk250]

I'm a flat lander. What's a hill? Lol The rpm's will get up as it breaks in. Mine was the same way. I though I was hitting the rev limiter at 8000 then one day after a long ride I decided to push it and she reved right up there. I installed the smaller sprocket the first weekend I had it.

[franque]

Make sure that you have a minimum of 1/8 freeplay at the clutch lever, otherwise it'll start to slip when the clutch warms up. For the grip, did you put grip glue on it when you reinstalled it?

[Chrisguga]

Make sure that you have a minimum of 1/8 freeplay at the clutch lever, otherwise it'll start to slip when the clutch warms up. For the grip, did you put grip glue on it when you reinstalled it?

Yes, it has at least that much free play now.

Grip glue? I didn’t. I had to use dishwashing liquid and water to get the things on.

It’s not the additional grip that’s free spinning. The entire factory grip is now spinning round and round the handlebar. Any suggestions on fixing that?

[JerryHawk250]

Yes, it has at least that much free play now.

Grip glue? I didn’t. I had to use dishwashing liquid and water to get the things on.

It’s not the additional grip that’s free spinning. The entire factory grip is now spinning round and round the handlebar. Any suggestions on fixing that?
I've never had that happen on any bike but have heard about it happening before. Yes there is such a thing as grip glue. People in motocross use it because you're literally carrying the bike around by it grips. All that twisting will eventually loosen the grips. As far as your free spinning. Check to make sure your grip hasn't split or cracked.

[franque]

I'm not sure what could've cracked on the left side, unless you're saying like the switches are free spinning. Don't ever use soap to get a grip on, and yes, you should use grip glue. You can use hairspray to get a grip on, because that'll dry, or if you have a compressor, you can use a blower to get the grip on. I'd take the whole grip off and clean off the soap.

[Megadan]

Hairspray works amazingly well. Not only does it dry, but it is also tacky. I have never had a grip come off using hair spray.

I have used grip glues, but had weird luck with them. They also have a pretty long set time, at least 24 hours, and even then I have had a grip not set before.

[Weldangrind]

I have a very old Harbor Freight Mig welder that still works great. Too bad they don't sell that model anymore. It was made in Italy and not China. lol

That’s the spiffy Cebora welder they used to sell. I learned to weld with one of those and built my first trailer with it. I also upgraded it by adding a cooling fan and a larger ground wire with heavy duty ground clamp. The welds were marginally better, but the duty cycle was greatly improved.
Back to your regularly scheduled program.

[Chrisguga]

Just ordered this air filter to attach directly to the carb. I chose this one because it’ll be here in 3 days and the ones half as expensive take a month to arrive.

K&N Vent Air Filter/ Breather: High Performance, Premium, Washable, Replacement Engine Filter: Flange Diameter: 1.75 In, Filter Height: 2.5 In, Flange Length: 0.625 In, Shape: Breather, 62-1470 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00062YJPY/

[JerryHawk250]

Chris,
I found these handle bar riser that would match what's already on the bike. I didn't measure what size we need yet. I think i'm going to get them.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CHFC2SY/

[Chrisguga]

Man, you find all the good stuff. That color will look good with the other gold accents too.

Please post up once you figure out which size we need and I’ll order them too!

Afterall, imitation is the best form of flattery!

[Megadan]

If you know the size you need I know of a couple other risers that are a bit taller.

[JerryHawk250]

Man, you find all the good stuff. That color will look good with the other gold accents too.

Please post up once you figure out which size we need and I’ll order them too!

Afterall, imitation is the best form of flattery!I'll measure it today. The bike is filthy from the limestone parking lot at work. Today I'll change the oil and a good cleaning.

[JerryHawk250]

Man, you find all the good stuff. That color will look good with the other gold accents too.

Please post up once you figure out which size we need and I’ll order them too!

Afterall, imitation is the best form of flattery!
They are 48mm.

[Chrisguga]

Awesome, just ordered them!

[Chrisguga]

I played around with the bike tonight and installed this K&N filter directly to the carb. I had been running a bit rich and hoped this would help out, plus you can’t get much more free flowing than an open pod filter. I was fairly impressed with the stock air filter unit though. It was pretty robust.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00062YJPY/

This fit the stock carb perfectly. I didn’t get above 50mph or so, but it seems to run well. You can definitely hear that open intake sucking a lot of air. It’s pretty loud! I’ll go for some new top speed numbers tomorrow because I’m taking a 100 mile round trip on the bike to visit the girlfriend.

I also installed these mirrors thanks to JerryHawk250’s suggestion. I didn’t really even take note of their performance when I went out for a quick test ride because it was dark and I was more worried about the carb, but they look nice and sleek. The stock mirrors vibrate so much at speed that they’re pretty much useless and these are supposed to provide a nice clear image.

Excuse the leaves in the garage. We had a huge storm and it blew them all in today. The new mirror is the smaller sleek black one on the right for comparison. I’ll get better pics tomorrow.

[JerryHawk250]

Those mirrors are smaller but much more clearer and they extend out just a little further so you can see around you. The stock mirrors gave me a good view of my side. lol They also have a blue tint which blocks out the glare of headlights at night. Best part is they don't move or vibrate and stay put.

[Chrisguga]

Yeah, I could definitely tell they vibrate less on my drive to work this morning. I could also tell they’re wider as it took a little more finesse to fit between the truck and the middle pole in the garage.

The throttle is definitely more snappy and it’s pulling a little harder around 6-8k on my stoplight to stoplight commute to work. I’ll open it up more on the highway this evening. So far, I’m very happy with both mods. I can’t wait to gut that cat.

[JerryHawk250]

Yeah, I could definitely tell they vibrate less on my drive to work this morning. I could also tell they’re wider as it took a little more finesse to fit between the truck and the middle pole in the garage.

The throttle is definitely more snappy and it’s pulling a little harder around 6-8k on my stoplight to stoplight commute to work. I’ll open it up more on the highway this evening. So far, I’m very happy with both mods. I can’t wait to gut that cat.

Same here, its a little tighter squeeze getting mine out too.
It only gets better as you put the miles on. :D

[Chrisguga]

I hit my new personal best gps speed today.

100 jet in the carb, the NGK plug, and the pod air filter are my only speed mods. 69 mph gps. I couldn’t get it to pull past 8k rpm. It just didn’t have the power. I can rev it out to 10k in the lower gears, but not 5th just yet. I’m at 340 miles. Hopefully it’s still loosening up a bit.

I’ll gut the cat and try the 105 jet soon and see where that gets me.

[JerryHawk250]

7000 to 8000 rpm's is where these engines make there power. That's why I keep emphasising to change the sprocket. You will understand what I'm talking about when you do. ;)

[Chrisguga]

Yeah, I haven’t gotten around to it yet as I’ll need to look into buying chain links to put the chain back together after I shorten it, the chain cutting tool, the tool to crimp the new links into place, the swing arm dowels, the bike stand to use on the dowels, making sure I get the correct sprocket ordered, etc.

There’s a lot that goes into that change.

Plus, i can’t pull this sprocket to redline. A smaller sprocket will give even more of a gearing disadvantage.

The sprocket will eventually happen as my goal is a 60-65 mph cruise at 5500-6500 rpm to reduce the vibrations that come on around 7000rpm.

[JerryHawk250]

The chain has a master link on it so nothing to crimp back on. All you need to do is grind the pins off on the link you want to remove or use a chain cutting tool if you want. Never used one of them. lol
Install the 36 tooth and that will put you at the rpm's you are looking for at those speeds. Like i said earlier the engine makes it peek power in the 7000-8000 rpm range. Your're not going to pull redline in 5th.
Here's a link for a sprocket calculator. Use the RPS Hawk for the data as it will have the correct transmission data. Just change the rear tire size and enter the sprockets you want to use. You can compare three different sprocket setups. https://www.gearingcommander.com/

[JerryHawk250]

When you do order the sprocket just send them this picture along with the order so there is no mistake on what you are asking for.
http://www.jtsprockets.com/fileadmin/product_images/diagrams/large/JTR242.png

[Chrisguga]

Ah, I was under the impression you achieved 81 mph pulling 10k in 5th. That’s why I was worried about effectively decreasing my torque with the sprocket when I already can’t pull redline in 5th.

[JerryHawk250]

Chris,
I was doing some maintenance on both my bikes over the weekend and noticed that i had a gap between the stud and hub. I ended up putting washers on the stud to take up the gap. There is no need to groove the back of the sprocket so the only information you need to give them is the center hole size, bolt hole size and diameter of bolt pattern. I just assumed i had to recess the studs since the stock sprocket was recessed. That will simplify the order.

[Chrisguga]

I went ahead and ordered a 36 tooth sprocket. That should put me around 5600 rpm at 60mph which is perfect since peak torque is 5500 rpm and peak hp is at 7000. I hope to have the cat out this week and the 105 jet in and ready to go.

Thanks again for for your help, Jerry.

[JerryHawk250]

You'll like the bike more after the sprocket change.
Did you ever receive your handle bar risers? My order was never shipped so i ended up cancelling the order and found them on Ebay for a little less and could only find them from China. No body had them in stock in the US. I placed the order on April 2nd and they have already past through customs and on there way here. I should have them by the end of the week.

[Chrisguga]

You'll like the bike more after the sprocket change.
Did you ever receive your handle bar risers? My order was never shipped so i ended up cancelling the order and found them on Ebay for a little less and could only find them from China. No body had them in stock in the US. I placed the order on April 2nd and they have already past through customs and on there way here. I should have them by the end of the week.

Well dang, Amazon shows it as shipped, but the tracking number shows that the USPS is awaiting shipment.

I also just purchased the item from eBay and cancelled my Amazon order.

[Chrisguga]

So, I was up until 3am working on the exhaust and rejetting the carb to the 105 main jet. I can definitely feel a power increase at mid throttle. I haven’t gone WOT just yet. I’m going to tune the idle mixture after work as I didn’t feel like messing with it last night.

I’m very happy with the mod so far! The bike is really waking up between the engine breaking in, the air filter, cat removal, and larger jet. The sprocket should be here this week too.

[Chrisguga]

I think the weld came out great, personally. The thin wed is the factory weld, for comparison. I have black exhaust wrap on the way. I could have ground the welds out to look even nicer, but that seems pointless up under the bike and it’ll get wrapped anyway.

Here’s a pic of the K&N filter from the top, too.

[JerryHawk250]

Well dang, Amazon shows it as shipped, but the tracking number shows that the USPS is awaiting shipment.

I also just purchased the item from eBay and cancelled my Amazon order.

That's the same thing that happen with two orders i made. I cancelled both and ordered through Ebay.

[JerryHawk250]

So, I was up until 3am working on the exhaust and rejetting the carb to the 105 main jet. I can definitely feel a power increase at mid throttle. I haven’t gone WOT just yet. I’m going to tune the idle mixture after work as I didn’t feel like messing with it last night.

I’m very happy with the mod so far! The bike is really waking up between the engine breaking in, the air filter, cat removal, and larger jet. The sprocket should be here this week too.
It came out great! :tup: Yes all these little mods add up and gets better with the miles. After giving Venom some feed back on the sprocket they will try to get these bikes with a 38 tooth on the next batch and better mirrors. They really like getting feed back as it helps them correct issues so the next one will be better.

[Chrisguga]

The cheap original battery doesn’t seem to hold a charge very well and I plan to change it out, but I get tired of having to remove the side panel to charge it. I mounted this remote charge location under the seat which makes things much easier.

I fused it with a 10 amp fuse although I may step it down to a 7.5 if this is too much. Opinions?

I connect the positive to this and the ground to somewhere on the bike. The exhaust hanger and also the bolt for the fuel tank work well.

This isn’t a pretty job, but it’s all quality stuff. All connections are 3M heat shrink, the rubber insulated wire clamp is stainless, the fuse holder is waterproof, and the wire is marine grade tinned copper. Blue is 10ga and the yellow is 12ga. I also mounted the fuse holder so the fuse can be changed out if needed without disassembling anything. I have all saltwater rated wiring components on hand because I boat mostly in saltwater and saltwater is not forgiving on electrical components!

[Chrisguga]

I think I have the tuning fairly spot on except the idle mixture screw isn’t behaving as I’d expect. It’s on the fuel side so when I turn it clockwise, it should lean the mixture until it eventually restricts too much fuel and cuts off the engine.

Mine is acting the opposite way and lowers the idle and cuts the bike off as I turn the screw counterclockwise and out. It idles better and higher when I turn the screw in.

Either way, it’s idling great, the throttle is snappy off idle, it pulls smoothly without any bog or flat spots to redline, and the exhaust definitely has a sharper bark with that cat removed. I’m a happy camper and this will do just fine until I port and shave the head over the winter.

My sprocket supposedly shipped today with a 3 day shipping estimate so it might be here by Friday. Jerry, you said to grind off the old pins on the links you want to remove in the chain and that there is a master link to reconnect the chain. Is there anything at all I need to buy to do this? Any tool or new pins or links? I have plenty of grinding options. Thanks!

[franque]

Is that screw on the filter side or the engine side?

[Chrisguga]

Is that screw on the filter side or the engine side?

Engine side. The tighter I screw it in to the right, even fully seated, the better it idles. This goes against what I thought should happen.

[franque]

It could be too big of a pilot. I'd step it down a size and see what that does for you.

[JerryHawk250]

Engine side. The tighter I screw it in to the right, even fully seated, the better it idles. This goes against what I thought should happen.

You should be around 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 turns out. From what yo posted earlier it sounds like you got it.

[JerryHawk250]

My sprocket supposedly shipped today with a 3 day shipping estimate so it might be here by Friday. Jerry, you said to grind off the old pins on the links you want to remove in the chain and that there is a master link to reconnect the chain. Is there anything at all I need to buy to do this? Any tool or new pins or links? I have plenty of grinding options. Thanks!
I used my rotary tool and ground the pins down.

[JerryHawk250]

The cheap original battery doesn’t seem to hold a charge very well and I plan to change it out, but I get tired of having to remove the side panel to charge it. I mounted this remote charge location under the seat which makes things much easier.

I fused it with a 10 amp fuse although I may step it down to a 7.5 if this is too much. Opinions?

I connect the positive to this and the ground to somewhere on the bike. The exhaust hanger and also the bolt for the fuel tank work well.

This isn’t a pretty job, but it’s all quality stuff. All connections are 3M heat shrink, the rubber insulated wire clamp is stainless, the fuse holder is waterproof, and the wire is marine grade tinned copper. Blue is 10ga and the yellow is 12ga. I also mounted the fuse holder so the fuse can be changed out if needed without disassembling anything. I have all saltwater rated wiring components on hand because I boat mostly in saltwater and saltwater is not forgiving on electrical components!
So far my battery has been pretty strong from day one. My Hawk battery was the same way. well over 2 years before replacing. We don' have extreme cold here so batteries usually last. The Harbor Freight generator SLA batteries are an exact fit. I have them on my ATV and daughters UTV which has a wench and is held up through the winter without any charging. I use the 20% discount on both. I think there's a 25% coupon for the Easter weekend. It be a good time to snatch one up.

[Chrisguga]

I’ll check out the HF batteries. I found several good options on Amazon, but they’re almost always slightly too long to fit.

[JerryHawk250]

I’ll check out the HF batteries. I found several good options on Amazon, but they’re almost always slightly too long to fit.
They are a 10ah battery. 5-7/8" L x 3-5/8" W x 5-1/6" H

[Chrisguga]

They are a 10ah battery. 5-7/8" L x 3-5/8" W x 5-1/6" H

Good deal on the fit. I don’t see the CCA listed which will be somewhat important if I increase the compression. It’s worth a try at that price point though.

[JerryHawk250]

Good deal on the fit. I don’t see the CCA listed which will be somewhat important if I increase the compression. It’s worth a try at that price point though.

Not sure what the CCA are but caught my daughter cranking the hell out of her UTV this weekend because it was out of gas. :hehe: It never phased the battery.

[Chrisguga]

�� women

[Chrisguga]

I just went for a good ride and set a new personal best gps number. I’m 6’3” and 230lbs so I have size working against me.

Stock with a 100 jet in the carb (stock jet is 98), I went 69 at 8000 rpm.
Pod air filter, catalytic converter removed, and the 105 jet, I hit 73 at 8600 rpm in 5th.

If I could pull redline with a ported head and increased compression, I could theoretically hit about 78mph.

I also made a little drag strip area for myself from a stoplight and up a hill to a driveway at the top. I hit 57 gps at the top of the drive. I’ll use this for a rough estimation of acceleration in the future.

I might try the 108 jet just to see if it improves, but it feels pretty dialed in right now.

[JerryHawk250]

Awesome! Now all you need is the sprocket and you're in the 80's. :tup:

[Chrisguga]

I made another run 50 miles to the girlfriend’s house. I last made this ride when the bike had 100 miles on it and dead stock. It struggled to maintain 55-60 mph, especially up hills, where I’d have to tuck in behind the windshield to maintain speed.

Now, with 400 miles on it and just a $22 K&N pod filter, an $11 or so jet kit for the 105 jet, and a basically free mod removing the cat, and I had to be careful not to run over 65. Maintaining 60-65mph while going up small hills and sitting bolt upright is now easy and I can even gain a mph or two going up them if I choose.

At one point I passed a Tahoe and a semi truck and trailer at the same time on a 2 lane highway tucking in and going WOT, hitting 72-73 pretty easily.

Next up, the 36 tooth sprocket and then likely a cam, head work, and 11:1 Weisco piston.

[Fabian]

Has anyone switched out the brake and clutch levers ? I got some from ebay but they didnt fit. Was going to see if anyone can share a link if you have replaced with levers that fit.

[Chrisguga]

Has anyone switched out the brake and clutch levers ? I got some from ebay but they didnt fit. Was going to see if anyone can share a link if you have replaced with levers that fit.

I’ve thought about it, but it’s pretty far down on my “to do” list. Please share if you do find some that work well.

[Chrisguga]

Tonight’s mod was installing the new handlebar risers. This gold color doesn’t match so I’ll run them for about a week like this to make sure I like them and order the black set. They’re definitely thinner than the originals, but they seem strong enough to do the job.

I took it for a late night spin around the block and so far so good. The brake fluid reservoir does hit the windshield a little so I may have to put some nylon washers between the windshield and the bike to create a little more room.

Also, I changed the oil and the oil looked far lighter in color after 420 miles with the oil cooler than it did the first 120 miles without. It seems to be doing the job.

Finally, I adjusted the rear shock to be slightly more firm. I don’t have a spanner wrench so I used a large screwdriver and a hammer, but this is a very inefficient way to adjust it and I was tearing up the adjustment collar. That little bit did help though as I think the bike’s suspension was designed for a 130lb rider and I’m about 230. I’ll need to firm this up some more in the future.

Credit to JerryHawk250 for finding these risers.

[JerryHawk250]

My risers should be here Monday or Tuesday. I installed rubber washers on my windshield when I installed it. I also installed rubber washers on all the fairing screws. The oil cooler make a big difference on oil life. You will need it for when you increase the CR. The head work will increase the temperature of the head.

[Chrisguga]

I also installed rubber washers on all of my plastics and that made a big difference in the rattling. I’ll need to space out that windshield a bit though. I’m riding it 60 miles today and then back tomorrow as well as again Tuesday and Wednesday so I’ll get a good feel for the risers.

I’m debating trying to tackle that sprocket Monday night. I just need to make sure I can get it done in one night so it’s ready to ride by Tuesday.

[JerryHawk250]

As long as you have a good large snap ring pliers it can be done less than a 30 minutes. That snap ring is a mofo to get off an on without the right tool but can be done. I used my rotary tool to grind the pins off to remove links from the chain. It probably took me about an hour for the whole process.

[Chrisguga]

I don’t have any, but I’m going to run by Harbor Freight today to see if I can buy some and also a spanner wrench.

This bike definitely take some tinkering and sorting out to tailor it to the individual rider and their needs, but it’s really turning into a nice bike and it’s such an amazing value. Plus, I love having a project and researching mods.

I let my best friend ride it who also used to ride bikes back in college. He was surprised at how much midrange juice it had and he didn’t even go wide open throttle. Of course, I made sure to lower his expectations by letting him know it has 5 less hp than my riding mower. lol

[Chrisguga]

I forgot to mention, my first tank of gas that I calculated the mileage came in at 54mpg. That was 3.5 gallons used over 189 miles and the tank had quite a bit left in it. The tank is rated at 4 gallons, but it holds more than that. I’m estimating 4.5 gallons counting the reserve. I put 4 gallons in it the first time I added gas and it wasn’t all that close to the top of the tank.

That mileage includes ripping around at 3/4 throttle or more in stop and go traffic and one country ride down some 2 lane at 55-60mph.

I have no doubt I’d see 60+ on the highway, especially after I change this sprocket Monday. That’s a huge improvement over the 9-10 city and 14 mpg highway my 4” lifted Hemi Ram on 35s gets and it’s how I justified the bike’s purchase to myself.

[JerryHawk250]

I have the HF snap ring pliers. They just barely get the snap ring off but worked. Just took a little patients. ��

[JerryHawk250]

The tank takes 5 gallons. I filled mine yesterday and took 4.4 and didn't touch reserve. I've been averaging around 65 mpg. My first tank was 58 mpg. That probably because of the high gear ratio.

[Chrisguga]

O have the HF snap ring pliers. They just barely get the snap ring off but worked. Just took a little patients. ��

I have patience and Corona Extra. I’ll happily sit out in my garage and drink a few beers while I figure out the pliers and sprocket.:)

[Chrisguga]

The tank takes 5 gallons. I filled mine yesterday and took 4.4 and didn't touch reserve. I've been averaging around 65 mpg. My first tank was 58 mpg. That probably because of the high gear ratio.

I bet you’re right about the 5 gallons. That was a big selling point to me as the ethanol free gas station is a bit out of the way so the fewer fill ups the better.

I love hearing about that gas mileage with the new sprocket. Bringing the revs down from 7000-7500 to 5500-6000 has to improve economy at 60-65 mph.

[JerryHawk250]

Tonight’s mod was installing the new handlebar risers. This gold color doesn’t match so I’ll run them for about a week like this to make sure I like them and order the black set. They’re definitely thinner than the originals, but they seem strong enough to do the job.

I took it for a late night spin around the block and so far so good. The brake fluid reservoir does hit the windshield a little so I may have to put some nylon washers between the windshield and the bike to create a little more room.

Credit to JerryHawk250 for finding these risers.
It would of been nice if they matched a little closer. I have a buddy that does powder coating so If mine are too light i'll get then done in black. Probably could just spray them black. Just don't know how well the paint will hold up.

[Chrisguga]

I wasn’t able to ride my 110 or so miles this weekend due to storms, but I did ride it to work this morning. It feels a lot different with the risers. I have my bars at too much of an angle and I tried my clutch lever angled down a bit more than I had it, but I’ll widen out the bar angle and raise the clutch lever a bit this afternoon. I think I’ll appreciate the raised bars on my longer rides as the ride to work is only 2 miles.

I’m going to knock out that sprocket install tonight. I bought the best snap lock pliers Harbor Freight had and they look pretty beefy. I’m going to hang my bike from the rafters using some ratchet straps like you did, Jerry.

I need to go ahead and buy a bike stand and swing arm dowels so I can drill and tap some holes on the swing arm and install them.

[JerryHawk250]

We lucked out and all the bad weather just missed us.
I ended up buying a Swing arm stand form HF about two weeks ago. It made my chain maintenance much easier. lol I contacted HF to buy the front fork adapters but was told they were discontinued. I did find them on Ebay but was only available from one seller in Italy. I might have them for the weekend or next week. https://www.ebay.com/itm/Paddock-Stand-Bobbins-Frame-Fork-Adaptors-Hooks-Motorcycle-Bikers-Rear-Lift/173309301184

[Chrisguga]

I like that Hf swingarm stand that won’t require me to buy and install those spools. I’ll pick that up today for sure for my project tonight.

I’ll also buy those adapters for the front. You sure are good at getting me to spend money on mods. lol

I’m going to make a decision on where I go with engine mods after I run this sprocket for a week or two. At the absolutely least for short term, I’ll port and deck the head and go from the 3 layer stock head gasket to 1 layer. That’ll equal about 10.7:1 or slightly higher compression.

That’s a 1mm or 0.04ish decrease from the decking and a 0.015 decrease from the gasket. Stock, there is 0.1 gap between piston and valves. This should leave plenty of piston to valve clearance. The head decking is worth about a point of compression and the gasket is worth around .4. It’ll require premium gas, but that’s ok.

Then, over the winter I’ll likely go with the Athena 67mm piston kit with an 11:1 piston, a thin copper head gasket to take it to a true 11:1, which will take it from 223cc to 233cc, a new CSC head that I’ll port, some Kibblewhite valve springs, and either than Terry Miller 2.5 cam or the Webb 89A. Maybe the Web 40/402 cam. That’s about $900 is parts though not counting the new carb and intake manifold I’d need to optimize it. So, I’ll just raise the compression for now! lol

[JerryHawk250]

I like that Hf swingarm stand that won’t require me to buy and install those spools. I’ll pick that up today for sure for my project tonight.

I’ll also buy those adapters for the front. You sure are good at getting me to spend money on mods. lol

I’m going to make a decision on where I go with engine mods after I run this sprocket for a week or two. At the absolutely least for short term, I’ll port and deck the head and go from the 3 layer stock head gasket to 1 layer. That’ll equal about 10.7:1 or slightly higher compression.

That’s a 1mm or 0.04ish decrease from the decking and a 0.015 decrease from the gasket. Stock, there is 0.1 gap between piston and valves. This should leave plenty of piston to valve clearance. The head decking is worth about a point of compression and the gasket is worth around .4. It’ll require premium gas, but that’s ok.

Then, over the winter I’ll likely go with the Athena 67mm piston kit with an 11:1 piston, a thin copper head gasket to take it to a true 11:1, which will take it from 223cc to 233cc, a new CSC head that I’ll port, some Kibblewhite valve springs, and either than Terry Miller 2.5 cam or the Webb 89A. Maybe the Web 40/402 cam. That’s about $900 is parts though not counting the new carb and intake manifold I’d need to optimize it. So, I’ll just raise the compression for now! lol
You need to download the HF Coupon App and get the 20% off coupon. :tup:

The thinner head gasket sounds like it will work. I'm not sure how thick the stock gasket is yet. Now you got me spending money. :p

The CSC TT250 head will not work on these engines. The TT250 is a push rod engine.

[Chrisguga]

You need to download the HF Coupon App and get the 20% off coupon. :tup:

The thinner head gasket sounds like it will work. I'm not sure how thick the stock gasket is yet. Now you got me spending money. :p


The CSC TT250 head will not work on these engines. The TT250 is a push rod engine.

I’m a big fan of the HF coupons. I used a 25% off coupon on those pliers.

Doh, I need to find a new source for a head then whether Chinese or a CRF230F.

The other option is to do a Weisco piston for about $105 that claims 11:1, but is really more like 10.5:1, and then do a thin gasket to get the desired 11:1 compression. This is nice because it leaves the head stock so you don’t have to worry about piston to valve clearance with a big cam. The piston is domed, but not in the area of the valves so it won’t get in the way of a cam. The drawback is it appears you have to remove the engine from the frame to install it.

Apparently the stock CRF230F gasket is 3 layers riveted together. People drill out the rivets and then just use the top or bottom layer for a half point compression increase.

I’ve learned a lot about these engines on thumpertalk. They’re a fairly popular engine to mod.

[JerryHawk250]

I'm just going to port and deck the stock head. The CRF230F heads run $170-200. I ran across a chinese head for $90. You could probably order one from Venom.

[Chrisguga]

I'm just going to port and deck the stock head. The CRF230F heads run $170-200. I ran across a chinese head for $90. You could probably order one from Venom.

Yeah, I’ll need torque down low to pull the tall gear at highway speeds and the compression boost is exactly what the doctor ordered. Plus, it’s free minus the cost of the materials to do the job. And, you don’t have to remove the engine.

That’s a win win.

[JerryHawk250]

Yeah, I’ll need torque down low to pull the tall gear at highway speeds and the compression boost is exactly what the doctor ordered. Plus, it’s free minus the cost of the materials to do the job. And, you don’t have to remove the engine.

That’s a win win.

You can also use a thinner base gasket. This will drop the cylinder and increase the CR. On my old 200x i wouldn't use the base gasket and used copper seal. Easier than shaving the head. lol

[Chrisguga]

You can also use a thinner base gasket. This will drop the cylinder and increase the CR. On my old 200x i wouldn't use the base gasket and used copper seal. Easier than shaving the head. lol

Yeah, but then you get back to possibly having to remove the engine to get the cylinder off which I’m trying to avoid.

[JerryHawk250]

Has anyone switched out the brake and clutch levers ? I got some from ebay but they didnt fit. Was going to see if anyone can share a link if you have replaced with levers that fit.
I installed these but not an exact fit. I had to make a bushing out of some copper tubing for the brake lever bolt. the hole was a little larger than the bolt. On the clutch lever i had to sand a little to fit. it was just a tad thicker. It works perfect with those little mods.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07PG7K21Q/

[TiggerOG]

Got mine ordered this morning. Can't wait for it to show up! Lol

[JerryHawk250]

Got mine ordered this morning. Can't wait for it to show up! Lol
Congrats on the new bike. :tup: I see you got the Blue.

[TiggerOG]

Yeah actually just got off the phone with them. They only had the red available. There was however a blue 2018 which I was assured would be the exact same... So got that one coming. I just can't see myself on a red bike lol. Also I ordered the helmet lock and it just came in today... They sent me the tiniest little 2 stroke motor instead of a helmet lock lol. Just not my day today. What am I supposed to do with this lol. Lighter for size comparison 😂 edit::turns out it is a chainsaw motor lol

[JerryHawk250]

Yeah actually just got off the phone with them. They only had the red available. There was however a blue 2018 which I was assured would be the exact same... So got that one coming. I just can't see myself on a red bike lol. Also I ordered the helmet lock and it just came in today... They sent me the tiniest little 2 stroke motor instead of a helmet lock lol. Just not my day today. What am I supposed to do with this lol. Lighter for size comparison 😂

:lmao: That's a bolt on mod for an extra .10 HP. That's a fancy helmet lock.

[bogieboy]

i am very familiar with that motor... i have an MS170... if they dont ask for it back i could use it as mine is getting tired....LOL

[Chrisguga]

Hey, congrats on the bike! You’ll really love it once it gets broken in and you start to personalize it a bit to your riding style and needs.

[TiggerOG]

i am very familiar with that motor... i have an MS170... if they dont ask for it back i could use it as mine is getting tired....LOL

Actually have a buddy in tree services that said he could use it lol so it's headed to him

[TiggerOG]

Hey, congrats on the bike! You’ll really love it once it gets broken in and you start to personalize it a bit to your riding style and needs.

Thanks, I'm pretty stoked. Been too long since I've been on two wheels. Already have a bunch of parts on order and already sitting here waiting for it. Gonna try to resist modding it till I get her broke in though so I can see the full difference. Sprockets, carb and jets, mirrors, led headlights, turn signals, oil cooler, the list goes on lol

[JerryHawk250]

Thanks, I'm pretty stoked. Been too long since I've been on two wheels. Already have a bunch of parts on order and already sitting here waiting for it. Gonna try to resist modding it till I get her broke in though so I can see the full difference. Sprockets, carb and jets, mirrors, led headlights, turn signals, oil cooler, the list goes on lol LOL i can see you've been reading my thread.

[TiggerOG]

I like to be prepared and it seems everyone with these make the same simple mods with a great return on investment so why not right?

[Chrisguga]

Thanks, I'm pretty stoked. Been too long since I've been on two wheels. Already have a bunch of parts on order and already sitting here waiting for it. Gonna try to resist modding it till I get her broke in though so I can see the full difference. Sprockets, carb and jets, mirrors, led headlights, turn signals, oil cooler, the list goes on lol

My biggest bang for the buck mods were the pod air filter and removing the cat from the exhaust, followed by the appropriate jetting change. That, plus the break in, felt like a 25% power increase. Obviously it wasn’t that dramatic, but the increased noise of the exhaust tone and the growl of the open air intake add to the feeling of more power and speed. Placebo effect, but it still adds to the fun factor!

[TiggerOG]

Many years ago, about 10-11, I rebuilt one of those dragon 3/4 choppers... Was fun learning about these little thumpers. I rode that thing everywhere. I painted it candy red with black two tone and a plethora of little things. It was a blast. I must've rode that about 3k miles in about 6 months time.

[Chrisguga]

Hah, that’s awesome. I’d love to ride one of those bikes. That model is actually what sparked my interest in Chinese bikes. I thought it was wild looking so I started researching other models. I like the bike I chose for its relative practicality for highway riding and fun around town, but that chopper definitely has the cool factor.

[TiggerOG]

Yeah I paid 300 for it with 4 miles on it. It was rusted and wouldn't run. It had been sitting uncovered outdoors, but I took it upon myself to make it live. Sold it for 2k when all was said and done so I got my money's worth lol.

[2LZ]

I can always appreciate someone's hard work and effort. That thing is badass. Before I retired, my commute took me past a 3/4 chopper that was the Spiderman version. It was cool but had a small horizontal motor in it.

[franque]

Haha, that's crazy! Did you ride it that long without an exhaust?

[TiggerOG]

Haha, that's crazy! Did you ride it that long without an exhaust?

Lol nah those pics were from just assembling the painted parts back on the bike. Had a straight pipe exhaust that ran all the way back to the rear wheel

[TiggerOG]

Found a link I posted on here under another account from ten years ago that had some progress pictures too lol
http://s835.photobucket.com/albums/zz277/djdonkey/bike/

[Chrisguga]

I just installed the 36 rear sprocket, changing from the 46 tooth rear, and still have the 17 tooth front and I love it so far. I went for a short shakedown ride and the bike runs square, as we call it in the boat world. 40 mph is 4K rpm. 50 is 5k. 60 is 6k. 70 is 7k. Cruising at 60mph, which was my goal all along for commuting, is much more comfortable at 6k rpms compared to the buzzy feeling at 7k with the old sprocket.

I can basically use my tach for a speedometer at this point in 5th gear which is awesome.

Oh, I also filled up the tank again so I can log the mpg with the new sprocket. I changed the main jet out during that last tank of gas and spilled the entire carb bowl worth of gas, but I still managed 64mpg hand calculated. I bet this next tank of gas will easily exceed 70mpg.

I’ll go snap some pics of my gold chain too. I picked the chain because it had the best reviews for the price on Amazon and I wasn’t so sure about the gold links, but I think it looks pretty good. I’m also going to leave that chain guard off for now to show off the chain a bit more.

[Chrisguga]

I think it looks pretty good. It looks tight here, but has about 22mm of play up and down which is just about perfect. It’ll loosen up some as I ride and I’ll continue to check it.

[Chrisguga]

And those are upside down, but you get the idea.

I just did some top speed runs and ironically, my top speed is the exact same as before, 74 mph gps. Now it’s at 7400 rpm instead of 8600, but it can’t pull past that. I’ll try the 108 jet soon in place of the 105, but I’m very happy how it’s running from mid throttle on up to full throttle. Throttle is crisp and it feels strong. I still haven’t messed with washers on the needle yet, but will play around with that sometime.

Overall, the bike is 100% improved with the new sprocket. It cruises effortlessly at 60-65 mph with far far less vibrations and oddly enough, feels stronger in the lower gears as the taller gearing keeps the bike in its powerband longer in each gear as I’m not having to shift through the gears so quickly.

[JerryHawk250]

See, I wasn't so crazy after all. Lol. Like the bling ( gold chain) :tup: it gets better as she breaks in too.

[Megadan]

the bike runs square, as we call it in the boat world. 40 mph is 4K rpm. 50 is 5k. 60 is 6k. 70 is 7k. Cruising at 60mph, which was my goal all along for commuting, is much more comfortable at 6k rpms compared to the buzzy feeling at 7k with the old sprocket.



What you have right there is the exact same final drive gearing a Hawk gets with a 17 front and 43 rear sprocket. 40=4000rpm, 50=5000, etc. I consider it the best compromise for a road bike between speed, acceleration, and cruising.



And those are upside down, but you get the idea.

I just did some top speed runs and ironically, my top speed is the exact same as before, 74 mph gps. Now it’s at 7400 rpm instead of 8600, but it can’t pull past that. I’ll try the 108 jet soon in place of the 105, but I’m very happy how it’s running from mid throttle on up to full throttle. Throttle is crisp and it feels strong. I still haven’t messed with washers on the needle yet, but will play around with that sometime.

Overall, the bike is 100% improved with the new sprocket. It cruises effortlessly at 60-65 mph with far far less vibrations and oddly enough, feels stronger in the lower gears as the taller gearing keeps the bike in its powerband longer in each gear as I’m not having to shift through the gears so quickly.

As Jerry said, give it time/miles and the bike will open up on the top end more. You would be amazed at how different the bike will get at 300, 500, and even at 1000 miles it will still wake up just a bit. I think once you have your carb jetting dialed in and the motor broken in, you should be able to top out right about 80mph. More importantly though is that you can cruise along at 60-65 without hammering the throttle and vibrating your teeth out of your skull.

Honestly, I am amazed that you are getting away with a 105 main with a decat and pod filter. You must live at elevation because a stock Hawk runs well on a 105 main.

[JerryHawk250]

Megadan, I was running a 105 for a little while and as it broke in I had to move up to a 108. Now with the pe30 I'm only running a 110. Strange thing is I'm running a 125 on my Hawk and 110 when it was stock.

[Chrisguga]

Dan, it continues to feel better and better as it breaks in. I’m at 560 miles right now.

You’re right, this gearing seems about perfect for what I want to do. I can hold my speed with extra throttle up small hills and can always briefly tuck in behind the windshield on a large hill which always equals 2-4 more mph.

I’m happy enough with my carb tuning right now, but it did stall on me once yesterday at a stoplight. The rpms would also hang at about 1800 for 4-5 seconds and then drop past my normal idle at 1500 down to about 1100-1200. Applying choke would remedy this and bring the rpms back to 1500 so clearly I’m too lean at idle.

The idle screw doesn’t currently make sense to me though as it’s on the fuel side, but turning it all the way in, and I mean all the way in, yielded the best idle. No idea why. I’ll play with it some more this afternoon.

[bogieboy]

Chrisguga, sound like you might have an air leak somewhere in the intake tract if the idle is hanging....

[JerryHawk250]

The idle screw doesn’t currently make sense to me though as it’s on the fuel side, but turning it all the way in, and I mean all the way in, yielded the best idle. No idea why. I’ll play with it some more this afternoon.
That doesn't seem right. Did you leave the stock pilot jet in? With the stock pilot i set mine at 1 1/2 turns out and idled perfect. Didn't bother adjusting it any further because it idles so well. with it all the way closed the idle mixture
should be real lean. That would explain the high idle hanging and having to hit the choke.
The PE30 is another story. I had to keep swapping pilot jets before i could get it to idle smooth. I still think i'm a tad rich on the idle mixture. I think once i port, deck and install the cam the PE30 will be a better match.

[JerryHawk250]

Chrisguga, sound like you might have an air leak somewhere in the intake tract if the idle is hanging....

This is highly possible.
Chris, Does the vacuum nipple on the intake have a hose connected to it?

[Chrisguga]

Chrisguga, sound like you might have an air leak somewhere in the intake tract if the idle is hanging....

I’ll have to look at the pod air filter. There really isn’t anywhere to have an air leak besides the joint between the air filter and the carb as it’s mounted directly to it. I know I have it tightened down very tight to the carb with the worm gears. Hmm

[Chrisguga]

This is highly possible.
Chris, Does the vacuum nipple on the intake have a hose connected to it?

Ok, we may be onto something because you know the two hoses that run into the factory air box? I just left them there. One is the crankcase breather and I figured it’s fine to vent into the old air box, but I don’t know what the other does nor did I do anything with them.

[Chrisguga]

Yes, stock pilot jet. I did the basic idle mixture procedure as how I learned it online. Adjust the rpm idle screw a bit low so you can hear variances one the idle speed, and then adjust the idle mixture screw richer and richer until the idle reaches its peak speed and then go slightly more lean until it starts to slow again, then go right to that point it’s right at its fastest. Then adjust the rpm screw to where you want it.

The odd thing here is, the rpm just kept getting faster as I turned the idle mixture screw clockwise until I could no longer turn it. It seemed odd, but at the time also idled really well. It’s only now hanging and then dropping idle after 4-5 seconds at idle, once warm.

[JerryHawk250]

The air leak Bogieboy is speaking of will be where the carb attaches to the intake. You don't want to over tighten it. remove the carb and check that the o-ring isn't damaged. I usually smear a little grease on it to help it seal.

[JerryHawk250]

Ok, we may be onto something because you know the two hoses that run into the factory air box? I just left them there. One is the crankcase breather and I figured it’s fine to vent into the old air box, but I don’t know what the other does nor did I do anything with them. The nipple i'm talking about is on the intake between the carb and engine. If it is uncapped or no hose connected to it then it will run like it's real lean. Fast idle and idle hangs. But from what i'm reading you just need to open up the idle mixture some to give it more fuel.

[Chrisguga]

Ok, thank you Jerry. I’ll look at the intake and play with the idle mixture screw after work. Well, I’m actually running the 100 miles round trip after work to visit the girlfriend, but I’ll check both Wednesday.

I’m excited to log some miles with the bar risers and new sprocket.

[JerryHawk250]

Ok, thank you Jerry. I’ll look at the intake and play with the idle mixture screw after work. Well, I’m actually running the 100 miles round trip after work to visit the girlfriend, but I’ll check both Wednesday.

I’m excited to log some miles with the bar risers and new sprocket.
I'm sure your going to enjoy your ride a lot more with the 36 tooth sprocket. I have to hit the interstate today for about 60 miles to go look at a new project. I get to joy ride on the bike while at work. lol Oh well somebody has to do it. Might as well be me. :D

[Chrisguga]

I just ran the 50 miles to the girlfriend’s house. The bike is much more pleasant to ride with the sprocket change. I also had no problem pulling hills at 60-70 mph. It helps that the bike’s peak torque is at 5500 rpm, or 55 mph, and the bike’s peak hp is at 7000 rpm, or 70 mph. It’s perfect as the bike pulls great in this range and it’s the exact range of speeds I run.

My next project is to drop the rear shock out of the bike so I can adjust it to be more firm. I can’t get any tool on the adjustment at the base of it with it installed on the bike. Anyone have any suggestions?

I also want to buy a tank bag and tail bag to improve my carrying capacity when I travel on the bike. I may even buy some matching saddlebags.

[JerryHawk250]

Glad the sprocket is working out for you.

Hang the bike from the rafters and remove the shock will probably be the best way.

I use my tail bag daily. It's just big enough to store a rain suit and few extra small items. I stuck a HF generator battery in it on Friday.

[Chrisguga]

I ordered a really nice Chase Harper tail bag and a Chase Harper magnetic tank bag, but in the meantime this is how I roll when I need to carry a lot.

Also, I’m at about 190 miles on this tank of gas with the new sprocket and at about half a tank of fuel. This mileage calculation is going to be better than I expected.

[Chrisguga]

I can’t get a picture to show up straight to save my life. iPhone 10 and the damn camera already broke so I’m having to use the selfie camera and I think that’s what is messing up the pics.

:edit: Yep, that’s much better. Sigh

[JerryHawk250]

Man you got her loaded up pretty good. The best fuel mileage I've gotten so far was just over 81mpg. 362 miles on the tank. 4 days riding to work on the current and still over 3/4 left in tank. But only driving 59 to 60 mph. My worst was around 65mpg.

[Chrisguga]

Man you got her loaded up pretty good. The best fuel mileage I've gotten so far was just over 81mpg. 362 miles on the tank. 4 days riding to work on the current and still over 3/4 left in tank. But only driving 59 to 60 mph. My worst was around 65mpg.

The fuel mileage on this bike is incredible. My last tank of gas with the stock sprockets, spilling a whole carb worth of fuel, and lots of WOT acceleration yielded 64mpg. I bet I see 75 this tank. Much better than I expected.

[Chrisguga]

New luggage test fit. Chase Harper bags.

Oh, and I hit 72.2 mpg on the last tank of gas with the new sprocket. 302 miles on 4.18 gallons of gas. Very happy with that.

[JerryHawk250]

Bags look great! :tup: Good fuel mileage too. It only gets better as it breaks in and of course staying out the full throttle helps too. lol

[Chrisguga]

Yeah, the bags are fantastic quality. I’m very happy with them considering the reasonable price point.

I should hit 1000 miles this weekend. That 72mpg number included 4 WOT top speed runs and multiple runs from 0-60 or so wide open. I also ran 70+ mph at nearly wide open throttle for an hour straight the other day. I could have gotten even better mileage.

[Chrisguga]

Let’s see if I can get these luggage pics to post properly instead of sideways. The first is my current luggage assortment including the book bag. The next is leaving my house, and then the rest are arriving at the girlfriend’s house an hour away.

I love these Harper Chase bags and think I’ll buy the matching saddlebags so I can retire the book bag.

Sigh... I see one made it right side up. Small victory I guess.

[JerryHawk250]

Even though the pics are upside down the bags still look great! :tup: It's an Iphone thing never had any post upside down on my LG G7 or any other Android phone. Pay attention to which way you were holding the phone for the picture that posted correctly. Was the top of the phone to the left or right?

[Chrisguga]

Even though the pics are upside down the bags still look great! :tup: It's an Iphone thing never had any post upside down on my LG G7 or any other Android phone. Pay attention to which way you were holding the phone for the picture that posted correctly. Was the top of the phone to the left or right?

Yeah, I’ll pay attention to the phone’s orientation next time.

I had to retighten my new chain tonight. I noticed it was sagging down and nearly resting on the top of the swing arm on my ride home from work. I hope it’s all stretched out now and won’t continue to require adjustment.

[JerryHawk250]

Yeah, I’ll pay attention to the phone’s orientation next time.

I had to retighten my new chain tonight. I noticed it was sagging down and nearly resting on the top of the swing arm on my ride home from work. I hope it’s all stretched out now and won’t continue to require adjustment.

They all stretch a little the first few miles. I'm not sure if i mentioned it to you but on the rear sprocket I ended up milling out the sprocket to recess the stock steel ring. The snap ring sprocket retainer was starting to chew up the aluminum on the sprocket. I used milling bit in my drill press to mill it out.

[Chrisguga]

They all stretch a little the first few miles. I'm not sure if i mentioned it to you but on the rear sprocket I ended up milling out the sprocket to recess the stock steel ring. The snap ring sprocket retainer was starting to chew up the aluminum on the sprocket. I used milling bit in my drill press to mill it out.

Hey Jerry, I was just looking at that on mine last night and it’s also chewing up my sprocket a bit. I don’t have a drill press so I’ll just have to think of a creative way to cut out a pocket for that ring. I’m glad I didn’t throw it away.

[JerryHawk250]

Hey Jerry, I was just looking at that on mine last night and it’s also chewing up my sprocket a bit. I don’t have a drill press so I’ll just have to think of a creative way to cut out a pocket for that ring. I’m glad I didn’t throw it away.
Maybe a router with a carbide bit. :shrug:

[Chrisguga]

The aftermarket sprocket is thicker than the stock one which is why the steel ring and the snap ring won’t fit so I might just sand both sides of the new sprocket down equally until it’s the same thickness as the original. I think that would be easiest for me with the tools I have and I’ll use my digital calipers to make sure it’s accurate.

[JerryHawk250]

The aftermarket sprocket is thicker than the stock one which is why the steel ring and the snap ring won’t fit so I might just sand both sides of the new sprocket down equally until it’s the same thickness as the original. I think that would be easiest for me with the tools I have and I’ll use my digital calipers to make sure it’s accurate.
That sounds like a plan. It's not much that needs to be taken off. I'll know on my next one i order what needs to be done now.

[Chrisguga]

Tell me about it. I already want an Orion RXB250L and then that new cruiser Venom is putting out looks sweet as well. I need to get my Chinese bike buying desires under control.

I do love the idea of buying bikes with this CB engine though so I’m familiar with the mods and working on it.

I have my eye on those new offerings with EFI, 6 speed, and larger displacement next year too.

I think I basically just need to marry a rich woman so I can have about 10 bikes.

[Chrisguga]

Tonight’s project included removing the aftermarket sprocket and narrowing the area where the factory steel retainer ring goes in order to install the snap ring over top of it. The aftermarket sprocket is wider than factory so the snap ring doesn’t fit into the groove with the steel ring installed, but the snap ring digs into the aluminum sprocket without the steel ring and would have eventually worn through it.

I removed the sprocket with the intention of just sanding the whole face of it down but I got no where fast doing that. I ended up taking an angle grinder with a 60 grit flap disc on it and narrowing just the inner portion of the sprocket where that steel ring rides. I took off a little bit at a time and test fit it until I took off just enough.

The stock sprocket is .28” wide, the aftermarket one is .32” wide, and the steel ring is .08” wide, but the stock sprocket also has recessed portions where it bolts to the wheel so I had to take the sprocket all the way down to about .24” thick for the steel ring to fit.

I’m visiting two cities this weekend and running about 230 miles round trip so I also topped off the battery’s charge and added the EZ tire beads to each tire which balance them as you ride.

[JerryHawk250]

Looks like that did the trick. :tup: You know what the best part is? Your picture came out the right way. lol
I haven't used the tire beads on this bike yet. The tires seem to be well balanced. I don't know how your tires are holding up. I was looking at my rear tire last night and with only a little over 1400 miles the center groove is just about gone. The front still looks like new.
I think i'm going to order another rear tire and maybe go just a little wider. 150/60-17 instead of the 140/60-17.

[Chrisguga]

Looks like that did the trick. :tup: You know what the best part is? Your picture came out the right way. lol
I haven't used the tire beads on this bike yet. The tires seem to be well balanced. I don't know how your tires are holding up. I was looking at my rear tire last night and with only a little over 1400 miles the center groove is just about gone. The front still looks like new.
I think i'm going to order another rear tire and maybe go just a little wider. 150/60-17 instead of the 140/60-17.

Hah, yeah.. I took pictures in landscape with the phone in each direction to make sure at least one loaded straight.

My rear tire’s center groove is also almost worn out, but it has plenty of tread left on the sides so I may try to get another 500 or so miles out of it.

I tires didn’t seem out of balance, but if I try to start pushing the bike to greater speeds with the new mods, I figured ensuring they were balanced at speed for $11 or whatever the beads cost was cheap insurance.

[JerryHawk250]

Hah, yeah.. I took pictures in landscape with the phone in each direction to make sure at least one loaded straight.

My rear tire’s center groove is also almost worn out, but it has plenty of tread left on the sides so I may try to get another 500 or so miles out of it.

I tires didn’t seem out of balance, but if I try to start pushing the bike to greater speeds with the new mods, I figured ensuring they were balanced at speed for $11 or whatever the beads cost was cheap insurance.
Threads on the side are fine. I'm just curious how much rubber or how thick that tire is in the center. I'll probably go ahead and order a rear tire anyway just to have on hand ready to go.

[Chrisguga]

Threads on the side are fine. I'm just curious how much rubber or how thick that tire is in the center. I'll probably go ahead and order a rear tire anyway just to have on hand ready to go.

Yeah, I guess in my mind I’ll just ride it until I see cords. lol

I don’t do high performance riding anyway.

But, I will go ahead and order a new one too. I guess I need to start researching tires.

[JerryHawk250]

Your only choice in a 140/60-17 tire is the Shinko 006 Podium Radial. You will have to go a little wider or narrower to find any other brand besides the stock Chinese tire.

[Chrisguga]

Your only choice in a 140/60-17 tire is the Shinko 006 Podium Radial. You will have to go a little wider or narrower to find any other brand besides the stock Chinese tire.

Gotcha, I’ll definitely go wider then. It’ll look better being slightly wider and the tiny bit of extra height will also give us an even taller gear ratio.

Speaking of... we could gear the bike taller by getting a taller sidewall on the rear tire. I don’t know if that’s something people regularly do on motorcycles.

[franque]

You can do that, but it's also possible to change the handling quite a bit, too, as it'll effectively decrease trail by effectively decreasing steering rake. It'll make for twitchier handling if you change it too radically.

[Ina Ditch]

I have a very old Harbor Freight Mig welder that still works great. Too bad they don't sell that model anymore. It was made in Italy and not China. lol

I think this header pipe would work but would still have to add length to the pipe. I haven't given up hope on finding the right one but when i do i'll be sure to post it.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4000117319916.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.1000014.10.729 d2547xwFjUF&gps-id=pcDetailBottomMoreOtherSeller&scm=1007.13338.141931.0&scm_id=1007.13338.141931.0&scm-url=1007.13338.141931.0&pvid=81339df4-0fd5-4076-ab11-c255ea19b9d4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rvioin8Swm4 https://primeweld.com/ I have a shop full of welders, I bought these out of curiosity figuring if they were decent that I would give them to my son in law and grandsons. I have been happy with them, as a matter of fact I played with the yes welder mig yesterday for awhile. I know first hand that PrimeWeld has excellent customer service and YesWelder refunded my money and let me keep some mig nozzles to compensate for slow delivery which was not their fault so I suspect their reputation for good customer service is earned as well. I have 2 of the PrimeWeld multi-process machines and the YesWelder 165 dc arc/tig and 205ds mig, they are in the HF price range and very good for the price. OK, I hijacked the thread long enough, if you have more interest PM me and I will answer questions. Chris, I live near you and maybe able to help you out with your exhaust cat.

[Ina Ditch]

OOPPSS, I see your exhaust is done, didn't read far enough into the thread before shooting my mouth off. my mamma warned me about that.

[Chrisguga]

Ina Ditch, I appreciate your offer, but I did get the cat out and the amateur welds are holding up so far.

Jerry, I meant to mention that while it may be placebo, the bike felt smoother than ever after adding those balancing beads. I was cruising along at around 65, not even thinking about the beads, and just thinking how good the bike felt. I felt like I was going slower than I really was and then remembered I added those beads. So, they might be worth a shot. I figured for $18, I’d go for it.

The key to getting them in is to fill the plastic tube halfway and then blow them in. But, the condensation from your breath will start clogging the tube so you have to wait 15-20 seconds between applications to get them to go in smoothly.

[Ina Ditch]

not a problem, glad you got it done. I'm amateur to so you probably did as well as I could have I just didn't read far enough to realize you had a machine. I am enjoying this thread!!!

[Chrisguga]

Who doesn’t like pictures?!? I cleaned it up a little and tried to take a few decent ones.

[JerryHawk250]

Who doesn’t like pictures?!? I cleaned it up a little and tried to take a few decent ones.
Looks almost as pretty as mine. :hehe: Looks great! :tup: