PDA

View Full Version : Tbr7 loose kneck!


Cracklife94
03-20-2020, 07:25 PM
So I just unboxed my tbr7 and I paid extra to have it assembled on arrival. But the front where the triple clamps are and the neck holds it is loose. I rode it around the block and when you use the front brake the handlebars and shocks and everything shifts forward, does it need tightened or does it have a bad bearing up there or what should I do next??

Cracklife94
03-20-2020, 07:48 PM
Also I just realized the handlebar lock housing rubs against the other part of the lock mechanism thays on the neck side and grinds metal from it

Bruces
03-20-2020, 07:56 PM
This is exactly why in most cases it’s a waste of money to pay for the pro assembly .The bearings should of been adjusted and greased by the assembly fools ,you can do it now ,and while you are at it you might as well go through the rest of the bike because the lazy or unskilled dude who did it ,didn’t do it properly .

Cracklife94
03-20-2020, 08:16 PM
Sorry to ask another question but I'm a noob, is there a link to a video or chat on how to adjust and grease the bearing in the neck?

Bruces
03-20-2020, 08:42 PM
Take a look at Megadans thread on setting up a hawk ,it will get you going in the right direction

Megadan
03-20-2020, 09:08 PM
The first 8 minutes of this video I made covers the basics of it. Not the best video quality or detail, but it is enough to kind of get you going.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gWWVi40GQs0

kingofqueenz
03-20-2020, 09:31 PM
One word of advice.. you will need a "big boy" socket size for the head and a hook wrench.

Exactly what Dan has in the video...but highly unlikely you have lying around the house.

I had to specifically purchase those..but then again, if you didn't want to turn a wrench you wouldnt have purchased a china bike

Megadan
03-20-2020, 09:36 PM
One word of advice.. you will need a "big boy" socket size for the head and a hook wrench.

Exactly what Dan has in the video...but highly unlikely you have lying around the house.

I had to specifically purchase those..but then again, if you didn't want to turn a wrench you wouldnt have purchased a china bike

More specifically, a 30mm socket or wrench for the upper triple clamp nut (assuming it is the same size as the Hawk at least).

Another name for the "hook wrench" is a C spanner or hook spanner.

The one I used in the video is very similar to this one. It's a good tool to have around that will work on multiple bikes and more than one application.
https://www.amazon.com/Tusk-Steering-Stem-Spanner-Wrench/dp/B0039LHINO/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=steering+stem+wrench&qid=1584754527&s=automotive&sr=1-3

kingofqueenz
03-21-2020, 12:08 AM
Dan

Thanks so much for the link ( and the alias names for the wrench )... the ones I found locally and at Harbor Freight look like a stiff wind or hard sneeze could bend them.

I purchased one from Amazon and it barely did the trick and was very cheaply made compared to the one in your vid...also its funny when you search by the wrong name on Amazon it yields very different search results.

For reference my TBR7 2019 was a 30mm as well.

Be safe!

Megadan
03-21-2020, 09:51 PM
Just one more tidbit I left out. Once you have the bearings lubed and set and you put the top triple back on, torque that top 30mm nut to 50ft/lbs. That is the spec for the top nut CSC gives for the TT250, and what the heck, it works well for me too.

If you need some guidance on the adjustment, this guide is pretty good. https://www.cscmotorcycles.com/check-out-our--tt250-steering-stem-bearing-adjustment

Rocket tests
03-21-2020, 10:16 PM
I just checked mine and it was a little loose as well. I used a screwdriver and a dead blow to knock the head nut clockwise until all the play was gone and it all turned free. I loosened the top clamps and tightened the top nut then re-tightened the tube clamps. All is tight and right now. Some time after this shelter in place stuff is over I'll take it completely apart and put some grease in there.

Megadan
03-21-2020, 10:21 PM
I just checked mine and it was a little loose as well. I used a screwdriver and a dead blow to knock the head nut clockwise until all the play was gone and it all turned free. I loosened the top clamps and tightened the top nut then re-tightened the tube clamps. All is tight and right now. Some time after this shelter in place stuff is over I'll take it completely apart and put some grease in there.

I have no problem with the hammer and punch method other than it damages the nut over time. The proper wrench isn't that expensive so I tend to push the use of those over the former.