Things that NEED replaced on grom clones

[RK97]

I have a Vader arriving in a few weeks. Already researching what breaks frequently.

Would love some help, input, etc compiling a list, and links to the appropriate replacement or upgrade parts.

I am resisting the urge to just buy a mikuni carburetor (or Chinese knock off...) before the bike ever arrives.

More concerned with things like the chain and engine mounts.

Thanks in advance for everyone’s input. This will be my first Chinese bike, and first street bike in more than 5 years.

[Big Bird]

The knock off carb kit is a great upgrade for the money, along with removing all the emissions.

They come with upgraded engine mount bolts now so you shouldn't have to worry about that. Chain is a good upgrade, the factory one keeps stretching.

The only thing I have had to replace was the rear axle because I stripped the stock one.

[RedCrowRides]

Most gas these days has ethanol in it ,which is terrible on whatever it is they make chinese fuel lines out of , unless you have access to ethanol free gas i would immediately switch the fuel line from the tank to the carb out with some silicone based fuel line , you can get it in the color of your choice on Ebay for about 5 bucks ,3"16" size is what you need to look for.

[Rangerscott]

Wheel bearings. Stock ones are crap. Even if it rolls and they dont feel bad, theyre still cheap bearings. Id rather not have a wheel lock up on me.

[RK97]

Most gas these days has ethanol in it ,which is terrible on whatever it is they make chinese fuel lines out of , unless you have access to ethanol free gas i would immediately switch the fuel line from the tank to the carb out with some silicone based fuel line , you can get it in the color of your choice on Ebay for about 5 bucks ,3"16" size is what you need to look for.

I actually do have ethanol free 90 octane locally. It’s like $3.60/gallon, but i keep 5-10 gallons of it on hand for my SV650 race bike anyway, so that shouldn’t be a problem, unless i have to fill up while out riding.

[Medicbobs]

So I just got a new 2020 Vader about a month ago, so I can just tell you the things that are flaws or went wrong so far.

- First, Don't sweat the engine bolts! They actually came with some 12.9 grade GOOD bolts this time, so they seemed to fix that issue.

- The speedometer will most likely be about 7-10mph off and there is no way to calibrate it that I know if yet. You'll see videos on Youtube about holding both buttons quickly after turning the key to the on position or holding the left button before you turn the key on, but that only works on the earlier gauge clusters.

- My starter solenoid went out on my bike after about 50 miles, but I made a video on how to fix that if it happens to you until you get the 9$ part:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007L58MTS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


- I know you don't want to buy a knock off carb, but man...it is a MUST with these bikes. It's only a matter of time before the thing rattles off from the cheap rivots they put in them. Cheap knock offs are like 35$:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Carburetor-for-VM22-26mm-Intake-Pipe-Pit-Dirt-Bike-110cc-125cc-Lifan-YX/352663004512?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649

Make sure you get a set of jets too so you can tune the carb when the temps or elevation changes:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B082WF8BP6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1


Everything I'm telling you on here fits as they are running on my bike. I've been a pretty big guinea pig with this bike as far as buying parts and everything has fit. I still won't ever talk bad about these bikes (This is my second one in 5 years). They are awesome, CHEAP, little starter bikes that will help you learn the in's and out's of them while having fun riding. If you have any questions, you can ask me on here as I've pretty much messed with most parts of the bike.


Here's my Youtube link too. I've been posting the progress on my bike recently and any issues I may have been having.

https://www.youtube.com/c/BobbyLaneMedic

[Rangerscott]

Fix your YouTube link. It just opens our own youtube page.

[RK97]

Awesome. Anyone feel that a 17 tooth front sprocket is a must? I will have a passenger at times, so i don’t want to do that immediately...

[RK97]

The knock off carb kit is a great upgrade for the money, along with removing all the emissions.

They come with upgraded engine mount bolts now so you shouldn't have to worry about that. Chain is a good upgrade, the factory one keeps stretching.

The only thing I have had to replace was the rear axle because I stripped the stock one.


I haven’t seen my bike yet to know exactly what you mean by “removing all the emissions” junk, but i expect that means i will need to buy a new exhaust, yes?

I don’t have the tools or welding skills to make my own pipe at the moment...

[Deckard_Cain]

I haven’t seen my bike yet to know exactly what you mean by “removing all the emissions” junk, but i expect that means i will need to buy a new exhaust, yes?

I don’t have the tools or welding skills to make my own pipe at the moment...

No, they have a giant, complicated airbox up front, with vacuum lines galore, and a few purge valves and evaporative emissions solenoids.

You can remove it all, put block off vac caps on open ports and such and just run a pod filter on your upgraded VM22 carb.

Unless your State has emissions requirements and inspections you need to pass. Then I guess put it all back on for the inspection then take it off again when home.

[RK97]

No, they have a giant, complicated airbox up front, with vacuum lines galore, and a few purge valves and evaporative emissions solenoids.

You can remove it all, put block off vac caps on open ports and such and just run a pod filter on your upgraded VM22 carb.

Unless your State has emissions requirements and inspections you need to pass. Then I guess put it all back on for the inspection then take it off again when home.

Oh you meant intake stuff. I was (obviously, based on my post) thinking exhaust.

Better bearings sound like a good call. Will have to get sizes on those. I crashed my SV at the track on Saturday, so it’s done for the season, but OMRL has races 10/4 where i can see how the Vader struggles in stock trim 😂

[Big Bird]

I haven’t seen my bike yet to know exactly what you mean by “removing all the emissions” junk, but i expect that means i will need to buy a new exhaust, yes?

I don’t have the tools or welding skills to make my own pipe at the moment... The problem is the evap system. Biggest issue is fuel flow due to the often pinched or restricted tank venting. The carburetor is also set lean and has tamper screws, and its undersized.

If you want a exhaust this one bolts right on though. You just need to add a 51mm slip on muffler and make a simple L bracket to mount the muffler.

https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Exhaust-Muffler-Middle-System/dp/B07K68WYRY/ref=mp_s_a_1_30?dchild=1&keywords=grom+exhaust&qid=1600704710&sprefix=grom+&sr=8-30

I run a 16t sprocket so I still have good torque while being able to hit top speed and keep the revs down. 17t is probably ok as long as the rider is light weight, which I'm not. Probably not the best choice if you have a passenger either.

[Big Bird]

Oh you meant intake stuff. I was (obviously, based on my post) thinking exhaust.

Better bearings sound like a good call. Will have to get sizes on those. I crashed my SV at the track on Saturday, so it’s done for the season, but OMRL has races 10/4 where i can see how the Vader struggles in stock trim 😂

You can just get grom bearings. They are the same size and come in sets.

[Medicbobs]

Fix your YouTube link. It just opens our own youtube page.

Fixed. Thanks for the catch.

[ripcuda]

On my HC... the steering headstem bearings where way too tight making them notchy when turning handlebars lock-to-lock. I was able to disassemble, regrease and properly tighten them to fix it. Some replace the cheap bearings with better stem bearings... good option too.


Cheers!

[Big Bird]

One of my factory 12.9 engine mount bolts broke last time I rode mine. I had already replaced the top bolt with a 120mm 12.9 from home depot but left the factory lower bolt in once I realized they were marked 12.9 like the ones I bought( also because it's more of an pain to change the lower bolt). I guess I will see if the home depot ones last longer. If they break again I'm gonna go with a ARP engine bolt or drill out the mounts for m10 bolts.

[ripcuda]

My engine mount bolts where greenish in color and had 12.9 stamped on them (2020 Hellcat)... so I too thought perhaps they were improved. The first ride after installing my knobbie tires... the lower engine mount bolt broke. Probably exacerbated from the knobbie tire vibes. I upgraded to some Grade8 bolts from the hardware store and made an under-the-engine 3rd mount. No issues since.
Cheers!

[Rangerscott]

Forgot to add when I said bearings to also replace the axle bolts, they're crap. One of mine was bent.

The oem grom ones are good and fit better with a thicker diameter.

If I bought one and was keeping it stock, here's my list.

Wheel bearings and (seals if need be)
Axle bolts
Chain (use d.i.d or RK)
Any bolts that look sketchy
Fork oil


Carb only if the one that comes with it if I cant get it to run right or want a better one.

[hounderd]

cheap chinese fuel lines and fuel filter will deteriorate and eventually clog up the carb.

[RK97]

What jetting is everyone starting out with as a baseline for the vm22?

Both arrive Saturday, and while i know i will have to mess with it, starting off close would be nice.

Also, where is everyone venting the crank case breather with the airbox removed?

[Big Bird]

What jetting is everyone starting out with as a baseline for the vm22?

Both arrive Saturday, and while i know i will have to mess with it, starting off close would be nice.

Also, where is everyone venting the crank case breather with the airbox removed? Jetting depends on mods, altitude, temp, humidity. So it's hard to throw out a starting point. I'm at sea level and started with a 100 main with stock exhaust in 90+ degree temps. Now I'm at a 110 with a aftermarket exhaust and milder temps. I wouldn't be surprised if I need to change to a 115-120 in the winter. I haven't messed with the pilot and never adjusted the idle air/fuel from the 1.5 turns out starting point. The way it runs now you would think its fuel injected it just runs that good. Needle has always liked to be on the richer side of the clip settings. At least in my situation this thing always seems to respond well to more fuel. It's always a battle against being too lean, never too rich. And the plug shows no signs of being close to fouling. Always nice and tanish brown.

I have a small filter on the end of the crankcase vent hose that is zip tied high up on the frame so I have less chance of oil making a mess. I found the smallest one I could on ebay. Some auto parts stores carry a small one too in there performance parts section that people use.

[RK97]

Has anyone cut open their stock exhaust to reveal how restrictive they really are?

I am hesitant to buy an exhaust without being sure it will fit ��

[Iflipper]

Hello guys, I’m new here and new to my BD125-10. I’m having issues with my Chinese chikuni carb with stock jets (95 main, 38 pilot) and it’s bogging on fast throttle, also I notice my fuel tank is not venting properly as when I move fuel line going to carb I see air bubbles in fuel filter causing restricted flow then faster flow when I pop gas cap. Thanks for any reply and sorry if I posted in wrong thread

[RK97]

...so I’m going to end up taping a coffee filter over it, and running it vertically up the frame. Gotcha.

[Big Bird]

Hello guys, I’m new here and new to my BD125-10. I’m having issues with my Chinese chikuni carb with stock jets (95 main, 38 pilot) and it’s bogging on fast throttle, also I notice my fuel tank is not venting properly as when I move fuel line going to carb I see air bubbles in fuel filter causing restricted flow then faster flow when I pop gas cap. Thanks for any reply and sorry if I posted in wrong thread
The way they route the breather hose from the tank often ends up pinched by the tank plastics. It's best to remove the plastics and route the line in a way that doesn't pinch it when you re install the plastics. If you haven't already you should remove all the smog stuff and plug the egr port on the head. Or at least remove the check valve on the tank vent line.

[Iflipper]

The way they route the breather hose from the tank often ends up pinched by the tank plastics. It's best to remove the plastics and route the line in a way that doesn't pinch it when you re install the plastics. If you haven't already you should remove all the smog stuff and plug the egr port on the head. Or at least remove the check valve on the tank vent line.

Is this the check valve? I removed egr and have the one under cylinder head blocked off and one open
Not sure how to attach photo but it’s the round plastic connecting the hose above tank

[Big Bird]

Is this the check valve? I removed egr and have the one under cylinder head blocked off and one open
Not sure how to attach photo but it’s the round plastic connecting the hose above tankThe vent hose should just vent to atmosphere(for best performance and reliability). Remove the plastic thing.