Battery not charging / Testing results

[Meech86]

Hello everyone,

The more I dive into my recent purchase of my LF200GY-2, the more I can see what issues it has, to me it's nothing major since I only paid 50$ for the bike.

I connected my battery which only has 3 volts remaining on it and ran the bike to see what kind of voltage I would get. I received a reading of 4 to 5 volts and when I'd rev the motor high up it would reach 7 Volts.

I finally understand why the lights are not working. The circuit for the lights isn't wired completely, tail light and front turn signals weren't hooked up so that would explain why the headlight did not come on. (incomplete circuit)

For the rectifier and Stator tests,

I ran a Continuity test on my rectifier, I have a 5 pin rectifier and the colors are as follows according to a search. I inserted my negative/black lead into the red wire pin and went around to each pin with my red/positive lead and received the following readings.

Green - Ground = .992
Yellow - AC Input = .545
Pink - AC Input = .549
Black - Key Switch = 0
Red - DC+ Output

I ran an OHMS test for the Stator at the pins, I'm uncertain if I did correctly but I inserted my negative (black) lead into the Green/White wire nd went around to each pin and received these results.

Green/White to Blue/White = 135.5 OHMS
Green/White to Pink = Jumps from 4.0 to 7.0 OHMS
Green/White to Yellow = .700 to 1.1100 OHMS
Green/White to Black/Red = 5.00 to 6.15 OHMS


From these tests, I would assume that the rectifier is still fine but I need to replace the Stator. If I didn't run the Stator test correctly please let me know as I have a hard time finding Stator tests with the same coloured pins as I have.

When I picked the bike up it was already bare frame and there were two cover bolts removed from the stator side as well as a bunch of wires added here and there. This is another sign that the stator might be done.

Please let me know what you guys think and If I ran my tests correctly.

Thank you,

Mitch

[Emerikol]

Mitch, first things first, get a good battery on the bike and then start running down electrical issues. If the battery wasn't disconnected when you were doing your tests, it's possible you got some wonky readings. I can't speak to stator testing by itself, as I haven't ever had to run down issues on one yet. Pickup coils are a different story all together. :ohno: After you have a fully charged battery on the bike, you can do your idle/high rpm voltage tests and then decide what else needs to be addressed. Let us know if you need any specific guidance. This forum is chocked full of knowledgeable members willing to share ideas.

[Meech86]

Mitch, first things first, get a good battery on the bike and then start running down electrical issues. If the battery wasn't disconnected when you were doing your tests, it's possible you got some wonky readings. I can't speak to stator testing by itself, as I haven't ever had to run down issues on one yet. Pickup coils are a different story all together. :ohno: After you have a fully charged battery on the bike, you can do your idle/high rpm voltage tests and then decide what else needs to be addressed. Let us know if you need any specific guidance. This forum is chocked full of knowledgeable members willing to share ideas.


Hello Emerikol,

The battery was disconnected while running the tests for the rectifier and the stator. I did the tests at the connector themselves with the battery removed.

I had the battery connected while I ran the first test which was to see how many volts I'm getting at the terminals while the bike is running. I believe I should see over 12 volts as the stator and rectifier should be pushing out 12 above volts. After I noticed I was only getting 7 volts total, it made me go towards the stator and rectifier.

[Bruces]

Are you certain your bike isn’t a 6 volt model ?

[JerryHawk250]

Are you certain your bike isn’t a 6 volt model ?

You beat me to it. lol

[Meech86]

Are you certain your bike isn’t a 6 volt model ?

You beat me to it. lol

This has definitely crossed my mind, most places that I look says these bikes are 12 volts. How would I be able to find that information as to what voltage it should be? The battery has no stamp on it of what voltage it is.

Thanks guys

[JerryHawk250]

This has definitely crossed my mind, most places that I look says these bikes are 12 volts. How would I be able to find that information as to what voltage it should be? The battery has no stamp on it of what voltage it is.

Thanks guys

A 6 volt battery will only have 3 cells. Usually tall and narrow. 12 volt has 6 cells and will be wide.

[Meech86]

A 6 volt battery will only have 3 cells. Usually tall and narrow. 12 volt has 6 cells and will be wide.

Hi Jerry,

Thank you for the quick response. The battery that came with the bike has 6 cells on it. I also noticed that the person who owned it before installed a relay on the bike for LED turn signals and the relay is stamped with 12.8V on it.

[Bruces]

Try to find some other original electrical components and look for a 6v on them .Your test results bring up the possibility that your bike is 6volt ,it might be 12volt but anything is possible .

[JerryHawk250]

Hi Jerry,

Thank you for the quick response. The battery that came with the bike has 6 cells on it. I also noticed that the person who owned it before installed a relay on the bike for LED turn signals and the relay is stamped with 12.8V on it.
It could still be possible it's a 6 volt system and the previous owner stuck a 12 volt battery on there not knowing it is 6 volts. Hopefully someone on here with better knowledge on the electrical position on this bike will chime in. Member Humanbeing will be the guy to help.

[Meech86]

Try to find some other original electrical components and look for a 6v on them .Your test results bring up the possibility that your bike is 6volt ,it might be 12volt but anything is possible .

I will take a look, I wonder if the starter would be stamped with voltage capacity.

It could still be possible it's a 6 volt system and the previous owner stuck a 12 volt battery on there not knowing it is 6 volts. Hopefully someone on here with better knowledge on the electrical position on this bike will chime in. Member Humanbeing will be the guy to help.

This is also true! I just find my stator readings so sporadic, so not sure if I did the test correctly also lol

[cheesy]

6volt was my thought, too.

[Meech86]

6volt was my thought, too.

I just verified and the starter relay is stamped as 12V and also has the original part number stamped on it as well.

[Bruces]

Well honestly that’s good news as 6 volt lighting sucks on a bike .
Let the fun begin ,

[Meech86]

Well honestly that’s good news as 6 volt lighting sucks on a bike .
Let the fun begin ,

haha I could just imagine. So now it's just figuring out if I ran the stator test correctly.

[JerryHawk250]

haha I could just imagine. So now it's just figuring out if I ran the stator test correctly.

There are plenty of YouTube videos on how to test the stator.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+test+motorcycle+stator

also plenty of volt to 12 volt conversions. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=6+volt+to+12+volt+conversion+ motorcycle

[Meech86]

There are plenty of YouTube videos on how to test the stator.
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=how+to+test+motorcycle+stator

also plenty of volt to 12 volt conversions. https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=6+volt+to+12+volt+conversion+ motorcycle

I've watched a lot of these videos but the only thing is they always have 3 yellow wires to verify. I have all different colours so I just need to track down witch colours are these 3 yellow ones.

Thank you for the links!

[cheesy]

Well honestly that’s good news as 6 volt lighting sucks on a bike .
Let the fun begin ,

My Solex is living proof.:hehe:

[Meech86]

Hello Everyone,

I pulled my stator tonight and ran an OHMS test. I tested all 3 phases across, here are my readings below.

1-2 = .745 OHMS
2-3= 00.5 OHMS
1-3 = 5.40 OHMS

I think that it's safe to say that with these readings that my stator needs to be replaced. Time to order one!

[cheesy]

Yup.

[Meech86]

Hello everyone,

I have received my new stator and have installed it. I started the bike up and ran a test at the leads where the battery would be hooked up to.

At idle, I'm getting a reading of 8-10 volts but mainly remains around 8 and when I rev the engine it drops down to 6-7 volts. These tests are ran without a battery in place, I don't believe you need the battery to see if the system is generating the correct amount of volts.

I would guess this means that my rectifier is now the issue? What I don't understand is that with the old stator I would receive 4 to 5 volts at idle and now I'm getting 8 volts with the new one. Would this point in the direction that both components were going bad?

Thank you for the help

[Meech86]

I ran more tests. I ran the bike with the car battery hooked up and when measuring at the leads i get 12.7 volts at idle and 13.5 or so at 4000 rpm.I guess you have to have a battery to actually complete the circuit?

I thought that it should push 12 volts at the leads regardless of a battery being present or not.. Is this because the ground just off the frame doesn't actually ground completely?

[cheesy]

Always, always, have a battery in place when running an AC to DC system like your moto. The battery 'excites' the alternator so it makes the proper voltage. Luckily, it sounds like you didn't booger up the system and the numbers look really good.

[Meech86]

Always, always, have a battery in place when running an AC to DC system like your moto. The battery 'excites' the alternator so it makes the proper voltage. Luckily, it sounds like you didn't booger up the system and the numbers look really good.

Good to know! Thanks. Can't wait to finish up the wiring and assemble the bike back together.