CG250 ate the tang.. and didn't like it.

[grumpyunk]

Hi y'all
The PO stripped the oil drain threads. Almost completely. I installed an insert, and went to break off the 'tang' using needle nose. Problem being the diameter forced the pliers closed before they could grab the tang. Okay, I figured, I'd use a hooked probe to pull the tang out. Oops. It broke off and fell into the engine.
Well, after 50 miles of riding, I found out where the tang lodged. Went to used the kickstart, and it was difficult to turn over the engine. It jammed, but finally moved around when I put full weight on it.
Being totally in dummy mode, I used the electric and did my short ride.
It finally dawned on me a couple hours later why the kick was so difficult.
It had 'found' the broken-off tang. I assumed it would fall to the bottom of the sump and lay there forever... Not.
So, the question is: Can I use a magnet probed through the oil fill to possibly access the kick start gears? Or, will I have to split the case?
I have not diddled with it since first trying to kick it over, so the tang bits could still be embedded in the kickstart gears. The tang is magnetic.
Ideas? I had never done an insert previously, and was so proud that I was able to clean up the PO's mess without getting shavings into the sump. Fooled me.
tom
Added: this CG is a 2019 CSC SG250 with ~2600 miles... I now know why it was priced as it was.

[TheChairman]

Kickstart mech is behind the right sidecover.

If it's stuck in there, you should be able to get it out without splitting the case.

[grumpyunk]

From the pictures I could find, I figured the gears are inside the transmission, on the 'inner' side of the main case, with the kick start shaft sticking out through the case and then through the outer cover.
If I am wrong, it sure would be nice. I have a gasket set, and some roller rocker arms coming, figuring while I had it apart I would try a bit of an upgrade.
In the drawing I saw, the kick lever gear, the idler, and the gear the turns the clutch basket, (thence the crankshaft) are all inside the case. There were pictures on a post about a 250 that ate a valve, and I interpreted what I saw to mean it was inaccessible without splitting the case.
My eyes popped when I saw that little bit of metal had disappeared... the bike was on its right side, wheels up in the air for surgery... so gravity... took me a while to figure out why the kick start was binding. I will pull the clutch basket cover first, and inspect to be sure.
tom

[grumpyunk]

Found the little bit and may have attached a picture. While looking at the insides of the left case, noted that the thread repair was working its way out of the case, soon to waddle around inside the bottom of the sump.
Glad to see that was discovered when searching for the little bit of tang. It would not be fun to have all the oil drop out onto the road as that would leave the bearings dry, not to mention oiling the rear tire along with the roadway.
For scale, the tang is next to a 1/4" drive 8mm HF socket. I.e., a small bit of metal. I have not removed the drain plug and am still mumbling around for methods to secure drain, either re-cut a larger size, or get an insert designed for through holes. I *think* this was designed for blind holes where it could not continue to wind its way in. I used Loctite, but apparently it did not work.
If I knew regularly available drain plug sizes, I could determine what size to get, and if I have a proper tap. Not my idea of a fun project, but glad I found out this way.
tom