All around South America

[madarumoto]

Hi amigos
I bought a Chinese 250 in 2011 and rode it all around every country in South America for 8 years, clocking up over 80,000 kms. It was this Ronco Demolition 250, which they sell in Peru. I recently began posting Youtube videos about my adventures. The day I bought the bike is in this video, the good bit begins at the 58 minute mark, follow this link

https://youtu.be/Gdd38WU0CBw?t=3479

More to come.

[Big Bird]

Wow 80,000 kilometers is impressive. I think I'm gonna look for a catholic priest to bless my bike.

[TxTaoRider]

Makes my life feel so ordinary now. Welcome to the site, I'll watch more of the videos later.

[madarumoto]

Wow 80,000 kilometers is impressive. I think I'm gonna look for a catholic priest to bless my bike.
I did have my fair share of mechanical problems... but in the end I reckon I got my moneys worth. ps here is a trailer with a map of where I rode https://youtu.be/Z5L7MtOKUXg

[madarumoto]

heres a video from 2019

https://youtu.be/MQMmirCY83I

[culcune]

There was/is(?) a gentleman in Peru (ex-pat American retiree) who taught small engine repair at a local college and would source bikes for people wishing to have budget motorcycle adventures, provided they wanted to begin their adventure in Peru. He seemed to have many takers, mainly from Europe. I know he posted on Horizonsunlimited-hubb a lot, and seemed like a solid guy. Did you get your bike from him? Does he sound familiar? Is he still dealing in budget adventure bikes (aka Chinese dual-sports)?

I will continue watching your videos...so far so good!! :tup:

[madarumoto]

There was/is(?) a gentleman in Peru (ex-pat American retiree) who taught small engine repair at a local college and would source bikes for people wishing to have budget motorcycle adventures, provided they wanted to begin their adventure in Peru. He seemed to have many takers, mainly from Europe. I know he posted on Horizonsunlimited-hubb a lot, and seemed like a solid guy. Did you get your bike from him? Does he sound familiar? Is he still dealing in budget adventure bikes (aka Chinese dual-sports)?

I will continue watching your videos...so far so good!! :tup:

No I dont know that who that guy might be. I bought mine new from the Ronco dealership in Cusco. Or I should say "one of the Ronco dealerships" because there are several shops in the same street that have new Ronco models for sale in their showrooms. Because I wanted mine in orange, it was special order, and came disassembled in a box on a truck from Lima, the capital.

[Sullybiker]

I like your storytelling style.



The Ronco looks interesting - it's the same CG-based bike as loads familiar to Chinariders. They're solid bikes, and I'm impressed you got such crazy mileage out of it.

[madarumoto]

I like your storytelling style.
The Ronco looks interesting - it's the same CG-based bike as loads familiar to Chinariders. They're solid bikes, and I'm impressed you got such crazy mileage out of it.

Thanks Sullybiker! Actually over the course of 8 years and 86,000+kms, it had three different engines, not counting several rebuilds. The factory engine lasted over 20,000kms, if I remember correctly, and it was replaced at a cost of only $650 fitted (and I think I overpaid!) The original engine did fail early on, but I think it was because of my mistreatment of it. It was rebuilt fairly cheaply and lasted a long time.
A few years and many tens of thousands of kms later, I fitted a Honda engine, but it gave me a lot of problems, in hindsight it was a bad idea.
Here is episode 7, a bit long at 90 minutes, but I wanted to just finish all the pre-tour stuff and have it online. From now on the episodes will only cover a day or two and be much shorter. https://youtu.be/4q97kZT3GLc

[madarumoto]

New episode, this one only 14 minutes long

https://youtu.be/8g342Np2s40

[madarumoto]

New episode, only 17 minutes long. This was the day before I set off for Patagonia on my brand new bike. Also a bit about how the Incas sacrificed children, ironically in the main plaza, there is a statue commemorating the ruler who instigated this barbaric custom.
https://youtu.be/qdiUnK4ZZI0

[madarumoto]

Episode 10: Day one and the first 390 kms of what ended up being an epic 8 year, 86,457 km motorbike odyssey. I leave urban Cusco in drizzling rain on my brand new Chinese bike in the company of Angelo, an experienced motorcycle guide. En route we ride over the high mountain pass of Abra La Raya, before entering the altiplano and heading for Puno on Lake Titicaca. https://youtu.be/6jdeYzGchVg

[madarumoto]

Day 2 didnt exactly go according to plan....
https://youtu.be/sQd9nHO7EqU

[madarumoto]

New 11 minute episode, day 3, Puno to Arequipa:

https://youtu.be/juKaaJM1_SQ

[moresnow]

Interesting vid/story. What on earth is all packed on that bike? I pack to travel indefinitely totaling 35lbs!

[tknj99]

That bike looks just like the Bashan Brozz :)

[madarumoto]

Interesting vid/story. What on earth is all packed on that bike? I pack to travel indefinitely totaling 35lbs!

A lot of stuff I never ended up using! Like sleeping bag, tent, roll mat (thats in the big orange cylinder-like bag. The roll mat was very voluminous but didnt weigh much). In 8 years, I only camped a handful of times, but, I figured, carry a tent and sleeping bag & roll mat just in case I get caught somewhere. I also carried a laptop, a DSLR, several lenses, a tripod, three GPS units (because I LOVE playing with GPS), two pocket cameras and several external hard discs which I triple wrapped in padded stuff to save it from damage. The topbox only had a Gigapan unit which weighs only about 1.6 kgs, but it takes 6 AA batteries so I carried a couple of dozen of them because my GPS also used AAs. I did weigh all my stuff at one point and it came within specs, about the same as a pillion passenger. But, in hindsight, I carried way too much, and later you will see overloading caused the first serious breakdown that nearly killed me, halfway down the desert coast of Chile.

[madarumoto]

That bike looks just like the Bashan Brozz :)

The 2011 Ronco Demolition 250 used a generic Shineray engine. I saw virtually identical bikes sold under various names in several South American countries. You can zoom in and see more detail in this zoomable hi res gigapan. https://www.gigapan.com/gigapans/95964 and here is how she looked after 13,000 kms https://www.gigapan.com/gigapans/120401 (in the end I did 86,000kms)

[madarumoto]

Episode 13, eleven minutes long, descent from Arequipa to Moquegua, via the desolate Chala region. https://youtu.be/EqOfY2yu43I

[madarumoto]

Ep 14: bombs and murderers (sort of!) 17 minutes https://youtu.be/nrv_M__wZKM

[madarumoto]

New 80 minute episode, about the family that lives in an abandoned railway carriage https://youtu.be/GITctN8QyBY

[madarumoto]

new episode, 18 minutes long

https://youtu.be/QxA16EvCkyo

[madarumoto]

Episode 17, 28 minutes long

https://youtu.be/50l2lo7-ulY

[GlennR]

madarumoto, :tup:

I really want to explore South America. Looks like you've had a wonderful time of it.

[madarumoto]

madarumoto, :tup:

I really want to explore South America. Looks like you've had a wonderful time of it.
yes the trip took 8 years. Actually, 10 years and still counting, as Im still in Peru trying to edit all the hours of video while also waiting for airfares to drop. I was fortunate to finish the trip just a few weeks before Covid arrived.

[madarumoto]

madarumoto, :tup:

I really want to explore South America. Looks like you've had a wonderful time of it.

Here is a new channel trailer that condenses 8 years into 33 minutes. It also gives a preview of what future episodes will contain:

https://youtu.be/u-8RK8kglcE

[madarumoto]

Episode 18, 12 minutes long:

https://youtu.be/DezcmnQ0-MA

[madarumoto]

Latest video, 24 minutes long: https://youtu.be/vqJJBWExTBM

[madarumoto]

New 10 minute episode: After spending my first night camping in an abandoned saltpetre plant, I pack up and continue to head south on the PanAmerican Highway in northern Chile, covering over 500kms in the absolute desolation of the Atacama Desert, passing the 3000kms mark, a hotel called "Las Bombas", a weird rock formation called tafoni, a shrine to an unofficial saint, the foggy coastal town of Chañaral, and then spend some time looking for, and finally exploring, the fascinating archaeological site of Viña del Cerro, where Inca-Diaguita coppersmiths reduced copper ore using an ingenious device called a huayrachina, and an Inca ushnu platform exists, in this case integral to the other buildings for use as a solar horizon calendar, and possibly human sacrifices.



https://youtu.be/JxhsWIaTjWA

[madarumoto]

Episode 21, 11 minutes long: Leaving Tierra Amarilla I rejoin the Pan American Highway seeing along the way huge mining machinery transport convoys, wind turbines, and cactus with red protuberances which indicates I am finally leaving the Atacama Desert. I cross Puente Juan Soldado and recount how he saved the town from pirate attacks, and how a later pirate, William Dampier, left his mark on the next town I visit, La Serena, where I explore on foot some interesting buildings before returning to the hostel to receive a distressing email.
https://youtu.be/2AlVIl-5SDI

[madarumoto]

New 15 minute episode- first half about interesting things seen in La Serena local museum, second half about my near-catastrophic wheel failure (BTW all my fault)
https://youtu.be/uqZYjK1lQiI

[madarumoto]

Epsiode 23, 17 minutes long.
Having had my bike's spokes replaced, I decided to take her for a test run before making the trip to Valparaiso. I heard from the Hotel Socos staff that Valle del Encanto, about 25 kms distant, was worth a visit. Once there, I found ancient rock inscriptions, "piedras tacitas" - (which literally translates as "little cup stones" ) that have been assigned all sorts of functions including sacrificial bloodletting and celestial mapping, trees and plants that provide medicines and hallucinogenic concoctions, plenty of cactus, plus I discuss the mysterious whistling pots and the area's alleged connection with UFO phenomena.


https://youtu.be/k_SjdoKz96I

[madarumoto]

Episode #24, only 13 minutes long. Unfortunately it doesnt contain any road footage as my action cam wasnt working that day, but I tried to make up for it by adding computer graphics and lots of local history.
https://youtu.be/tyTN-AAbrDI

[madarumoto]

Episode 25 - in Valparaiso, Chile Installed in the historic Villa Kunterbunt biker hostel, guest of the very amiable Senor Enzo and Señora Martina, I face a dilemma due my father's imminent surgery, unable to reschedule a flight home, and having no credit card to fall back on in any case. Yet, the charms of Valparaiso made me feel at ease, especially when coupled with the camaraderie of my fellow bikers, who came from Austria, Switzerland, USA, Ireland and several from Germany, mostly on BMWs. One rider was on his life's mission, which involved the death of his father, a motorcyclist. Another came from Mexico on a tiny 150cc budget bike. Not to mention the family’s mischievous but lovable Afghan dog. Experienced an earthquake and I explain the orogeny of the central Andes and San Fernández Tectonic Microplate. Visiting many attractions, including Pablo Neruda's La Sebastiana mansion, their vintage trolley busses, 130 year old cable railway funicular "asensores", and amazing street art, I also pay visit to a master moto mechanic in the capital Santiago, where I saw a vigil in response to a hate crime.
https://youtu.be/lqDv2E25-5I

[madarumoto]

Episode 26 just posted - 18 minutes long. Leaving the Villa Kunterbunt after almost 3 weeks, I wanted to take a route called Gunpowder Road, but ended up taking a different route. While leaving central Valparaíso I pass a sign saying "Welcome to Cyber Independence" which reminds one of how Chile was one of the first countries in the world to build a working internet - rudimentary and short-lived though it was. Covering 510 kms in just under 11 hours, Atwakey and I see very little traffic in central Valparaiso early on Easter Sunday, though later in the day there was a lot of traffic heading north along the Panamericana. I stop at the Rio Maule, a watershed river in more ways than one, before finding a camping ground at San Manuel, on the banks of the Rio Perquilauquen, a short distance from a place that will always hold a sinister if tragic place in Chilean history. https://youtu.be/GYyTVzJTtlc

[madarumoto]

17 minutes long
Leaving the camp ground of San Manuel by the Perquelauquen River, I ride northeast to rejoin the Pan American before turning south again. Along the way I see a Chernobyl-like structure, clock up 5000kms and bury a geocache to commemorate, see a perfectly formed volcanic cone, pass an extremely long bridge, give up trying to find a certain fire station in the town of Lautaro, so named after a Mapuche warrior whose incredible story deserves a quick retelling. I had a near accident at the village of Quepe that saw me lock up my brakes for the first time in 5000kms. Then southwards to the town of Freire, where a local hotelier takes me under his wing and shows me some local attractions, including a leaning cupola, a German enclave, and a shooting location for the classic film "The Motorcycle Diaries".
https://youtu.be/Y3fFkHQygBw

[madarumoto]

ep 28: 12 minutes long. Leaving the town of Friere I am frustrated by thick fog which forced me to ride with my visor open. Because of that I made the decision to ride east towards the Argentine border, on the other side of the Andes it should be drier. Today I rode 291kms, and saw some interesting things, including a house surrounded by unrestored classic cars and a mystery wooden machine, a separate motor museum brimming with Studebakers, some high voltage electrical workers, an unusual factory yard, and I briefly recount the tragic history of Galvarino and Janequeo, Mapuche warriors whose tribes held the Spanish off for over 300 years.

https://youtu.be/Ct-D00OPE1w

[madarumoto]

episode 29, 12 minutes long.
Leaving the lakeside town of Entre Lagos, I ride up over the Chile-Argentina border that looks like a disaster zone - because it is! Volcanic ash covered lakes and killed the forest. Some unusual mountains seen along the way, a strange bullet-riddled "Bridge of the Gringo", plus some history about the strawberry, native to this region, including how the humble strawberry patch was used as an ambush weapon, and then before I knew it Atwakey and I were in San Carlos de Bariloche, Argentina.

https://youtu.be/w4zK3xGzlcU

[madarumoto]

Episode 30, 31 minutes long. A few days spent exploring San Carlos de Bariloche, a mountain resort renown for its chocolate, trout fishing and skiing, also its curious past regarding a mad scientist's experiments with nuclear reactions, and the devastating fallout from the 2011 Puyehue volcanic eruption. A few tenuous links to Australia, also a ride up a funicular to see some amazing views, plus a bit about music censorship during Argentina's military dictatorship.

https://youtu.be/_AVK5agqluY

[madarumoto]

New episode, 18 minutes long. Leaving Bariloche I see graffiti sprayed on the road surface that is a reminder of Argentina's tragic past. Scooting around Lake Gutierrez, where wind has whipped up some small waves, I pass the 6000 km mark on my bike's odometer, riding through lovely Patagonian countryside and Ruta 40, after 303 kms arriving in the town of Esquel where I have difficulty finding a room for me and Atwakey, dental problems manifest (again!), and find my expensive cameras and GPS units are all broken. But a surprise is waiting for me in the form of an historic steam engine, the Old Patagonian Express. https://youtu.be/j961-ElgJc8

[Wild Dog]

g in the town of Esquel where I have difficulty finding a room for me and Atwakey, dental problems manifest (again!)

I hate those turist traps, because that's what they are. In fact by law they are required to show you or inform you the price beforehand.
Sadly if they see they are not from the country they will try to pull it anyway, i knew this girl from Brazil that was screw over an asado (barbecue), because they hide from her a few details about the pricing...

Then they complain that they don't get as many tourist as they wish... Well stop with the tourist traps..

[madarumoto]

I hate those turist traps, because that's what they are. In fact by law they are required to show you or inform you the price beforehand.
Sadly if they see they are not from the country they will try to pull it anyway, i knew this girl from Brazil that was screw over an asado (barbecue), because they hide from her a few details about the pricing...

Then they complain that they don't get as many tourist as they wish... Well stop with the tourist traps..

Yeah that one I smelt a rat right from the beginning because the young duty manager refused to tell me the price until I had seen the room, even though I asked him two or three times. He was probably told to act that way however, by his boss, thinking once I saw the room I would be so tired I would just take it. But not me, not at the price he was quoting me.
There is another Australian motorbike YouTuber called Peter Ricci ("Solo World Traveller") who recounted on one of his Argentina hotels they tried to get US$100 out of him for a broken electric lamp. He said as soon as he touched it, it fell to pieces, he didnt knock it over or anything like that. They already had his credit card, and he was riding a KTM. He sensed a scam, refused to pay, and after a lot of arguing eventually they relented.
What I found is sometimes they play upon your memory not being 100% and charge you an extra day if you stayed over a week or so. They tried that on me in India a few times as well. You only get bitten once before you get alert to these scams, and overall the vast majority of hosts are pretty helpful and welcoming.

[Wild Dog]

There is another Australian motorbike YouTuber called Peter Ricci ("Solo World Traveller") who recounted on one of his Argentina hotels they tried to get US$100 out of him for a broken electric lamp. He said as soon as he touched it, it fell to pieces, he didnt knock it over or anything like that. They already had his credit card, and he was riding a KTM. He sensed a scam, refused to pay, and after a lot of arguing eventually they relented.


That's like the abc of scams, because 100 usd for an electric lamp is insane, even taken into account all the inflation.
I really hate those "hostel" and "hotel" because they screw everyone for a quick buck.

The north and the south of the country are underexploited and the ministry of tourism keeps their focus always at the same spots.

[madarumoto]

new episode, #32, ten minutes long: In my final afternoon in Esquel I visit a local art exhibition, see something relating to the Falklands War posing as art, see an item recovered from a local time capsule, and see parked in the street an Argentine Ford Falcon, a car which has both a fascinating and sinister role in Argentina's tragic history, notwithstanding its connection with Australia via one of its former CEOs. Farewelled by my hospitable hosts Armando and Anuska, I hit the road, the legendary Ruta 40, continuing south. The land becomes flat, almost featureless, except for a few wild horses and car wrecks. Passing an abandoned gas station and rusted car wreck, I try to refuel from my plastic jerry can in high winds, with limited success, before finally having to drop my bike when caught in extremely strong winds at the town of Rio Mayo, said to be Argentina's National Capital of Shearing.
https://youtu.be/z0OC7cHV_mA

[madarumoto]

Episode 33, 12 minutes long:
Leaving the cosy Hotel Aka-Ta in Rio Mayo, I don't even leave the town limits before getting lost, and bogged, near the colourful local cemetery. On an unsealed section of Ruta 40, I found my bike so unstable in the wind that I dared not go faster than 40 kmph. In the town of Perito Moreno, a pretty policewoman convinces me not to continue on Ruta 40, as she deemed it dangerous to ride alone. Heading east along RP43, I take shelter from the strong winds in a purpose built windbreak - but measure the wind to be still almost 50 miles per hour. A quick visit to the oil town of Las Heras, then onto the Bridasaurio, a full sized metal dinosaur sculpture. Arriving at the small village of Fitz Roy, I find no rooms are available and end up having to pitch my tent in howling winds.

https://youtu.be/EVXO6zbvpEI

[madarumoto]

Episode 34, 12 minutes long:

https://youtu.be/2Nz6TTw151U

[madarumoto]

https://youtu.be/MFQ_5FzANYc

[IdahoRider]

Thanks for sharing. I'm surprised you don't have far more subscribers, I've learned a lot and I've only gotten to episode 4. I started following Riding on Eggshell's world tour a couple of weeks ago and when I starting watching your videos this week I thought, "That sure looks like Harry from walking on eggshells, that is Harry!" My chinese motorcycle (Lifan KPX 250) should be here in a few days and I hope to do some long road trips here and into Canada.

Do you have any other trips planned? Royal Enfields have gotten quite popular again, hopefully you've finally picked one up.

[madarumoto]

Thanks for sharing. I'm surprised you don't have far more subscribers, I've learned a lot and I've only gotten to episode 4. I started following Riding on Eggshell's world tour a couple of weeks ago and when I starting watching your videos this week I thought, "That sure looks like Harry from walking on eggshells, that is Harry!" My chinese motorcycle (Lifan KPX 250) should be here in a few days and I hope to do some long road trips here and into Canada.

Do you have any other trips planned? Royal Enfields have gotten quite popular again, hopefully you've finally picked one up.

Yep... me and Harry have a shared history... on screen, in cheap Mumbai hotels, we had the same talent agent, and even on a bike once or twice!

I almost bought a Royal Enfield diesel, but gave up on the idea because the paperwork to get one out of India was too time consuming.

I had plenty of problems with my Shineray-powered Ronco Demolition, but half of it was my own fault for overloading her. But according to my calculations, even with all the repairs and rebuilds, it was still a pretty cheap way to get around.

BTW the real bike trip doesnt start until episode 10.

And as of episode 35, Im only 2 months into an 8 year trip!

Not planning any trips in the near future, one reason is my licence expired during Covid, and I havent gone back to Australia to renew it.

The other reason is, at my age and stage... 8 years and 86,000kms.... is enough!

[IdahoRider]

The sheer amount of video you took is impressive. Looking forward to continuing on with the series.

[madarumoto]

Episode 36, only ten minutes long, not much about the bike in this episode:
https://youtu.be/OJMt1uv3wc0

[madarumoto]

Episode 37, 28 minutes, not much about the bike in this episode:
https://youtu.be/iFi7xzrgvxY

[IdahoRider]

Got caught up with all of your videos last night. Quite a trip. Do you still live in South America? What is your latest adventure now that you're not acting or riding any longer?

[madarumoto]

Got caught up with all of your videos last night. Quite a trip. Do you still live in South America? What is your latest adventure now that you're not acting or riding any longer?
I have been in Cusco Peru since I ended the trip here just before Covid struck ... good timing I guess! But I am returning to Australia next week, after having been away for almost a decade. Not sure whether anyone will give me a job seeing how long Ive been away and out of my trade which is electrician. So Im thinking about selling what few possessions I have in storage and maybe coming back to Latin America to teach English. Doing YouTube videos is fun but very time-consuming and so far not many views, so not sure if I can keep editing full time. Glad you enjoyed my videos!

[IdahoRider]

Wow 2 months out of 8 years worth of videos, yes you have a lot of work but I hope you still find the time to keep going. Seems like you could certainly teach a general history class of South America!

[Magician16]

madarumoto, I've enjoyed your videos. I wish I had the nerves to try some of the stuff you've done.

[madarumoto]

madarumoto, I've enjoyed your videos. I wish I had the nerves to try some of the stuff you've done.

Actually the hardest part is just making the initial decision to just do it. Once youre on the road, the rest comes easily. Assuming you have the time and money of course. The hardest part was deciding when and where to end the trip. Its a lifestyle that is very addictive. The only part that needed strong nerves, that I remember, was when I was in a crowd watching Chumbivilcano community boxing matches. Lots of people were drunk, agitated, and staring at me, the only gringo, in the front row at the fence, filming with my video camera.
A man whispered to me, "leave before the last fight, or you will get robbed!"
I took his advice... and everything was ok.

[madarumoto]

Episode #38, it is 44 minutes long. Some ad-hoc heated grips added to my bike, then I ride south. Much history abut the British in their efforts to map the Strait of Magellan, the Salesian Catholic mystic Don Bosco and the sad demise of the Selknam native people...

https://youtu.be/T6UvFrwyE0c

[madarumoto]

Also a quick "in between" episode: https://youtu.be/HCYqKZZSYgQ

[AJ22_ChinaRider]

Nice. Subscribing to this.
Have anyone else here ridden through SA/Central Am/Mexico before? or plan to?

[madarumoto]

Episode 39 just posted, 20 minutes duration. Mostly about the history of Port Famine.
Staying with Señor Jose, he regales me with stories of lost trekkers and skulls in the forest. Although freezing cold overnight, the sun came out and after heading south just to see how far I can ride, I turned around a few miles south of the village of San Juan. On the way north I stop at Puerto Hambre, where Sarmiento de Gamboa tried to start a Spanish outpost. Sarmiento witnessed not one but three strange astronomical events in a short period, before his luck (and everyone else's luck) took an extreme turn for the worse. Leaving the monument marking this ill-fated venture I head north intending to cross the border in Argentina before nightfall. But, about 90 minutes outside the town of Punta Arenas, a serious engine failure in my almost-new bike put paid to that plan!

https://youtu.be/rQt2Z0WbYl4

[Mikd]

Just started watching your series, excellent work!