KPM200 oil change - Filter question

[KPM]

Hello All.

While I await my delivery, I am trying to stock up on oil change supplies. In this case, particularly oil filters. Looking at the KPM200 Resource page, the KN-112 filter is compatible @ $10 each. Amazon pops up other brands of filters that are $15 or $17 for 5 total filters. Looking at the KPM manual posted on line, it states filters are supposed to be cleaned, not replaced. Regardless, I plan on replacing my filters every year (1k-2k miles of riding in that time frame).

My question is, does the filter replacement require an O-ring on the cover ?

[herbie]

The cover does have an oring and it can be reused as long as it isn’t damaged in some way. If you get an extra o ring with your filter then that’s a bonus. Personally I would stick with a good brand name filter. And the engine also has a screen behind the big plug on the side of the engine that’s reusable and needs cleaned from time to time.

[Falkon45]

The bike comes with a reusable stainless steel oil filter in it already. It doesn't filter enough for my liking, so I went with a conventional filter. If you don't plan to keep buying filters, the reusable filter is great for your riding. If you're careful with the o-ring, you shouldn't need to replace it.

[KPM]

Thanks for the replies guys. :thanks: I intend to do my break in with an actual filter, not a screen. I want to minimize the risk of metal 'sandpaper' of whatever makes it thru the screen.

Will stick to K&N for the first 2-3 filter changes. But hard to justify $10 a filter, when competitors are $17 for 4-5 of them on Amazon. Part of me says $10 a year, cheap insurance. The other part of me say :hmm::crazy::grr: @ paying more $ than needed.

Some say the O-ring is too small, some say it's too big on different bikes. But the filter is the same across the board. There's a debate if it has a backflow valve or not, but then again for the KPM to have a screen means there's no backflow valve anyway.

Amazon links below for reference. NOT RECOMMENDING THESE, JUST POSTING WHAT I FOUND AVAILABLE.
2 for $14 (https://www.amazon.com/Tvent-Replacement-CRF250L-CRF250M-CBR250R/dp/B08GG8J22S/ref=sr_1_16?crid=20C3JY3CPKD77&keywords=112+filter&qid=1655006497&sprefix=112+filter%2Caps%2C86&sr=8-16#customerReviews) and 10 for $20 (https://www.amazon.com/Physeed-Replacement-Polaris-Predator-Kawasaki/dp/B091GMP7ZV/ref=sr_1_18?crid=20C3JY3CPKD77&keywords=112+filter&qid=1655006497&sprefix=112+filter%2Caps%2C86&sr=8-18)

And I'm personally planning to use Rotella T6 15W40 (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/shell-rotella-t6-15w-40-full-synthetic-heavy-duty-diesel-engine-oil-1-gallon-550050467/12043805-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=12043805-P&adtype=pla&product_channel=online&store_code=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-pCVBhCFARIsAGMxhAdREeZWP2q7Lt-GxOpYYYtug3o5OpLVTIqBCh39hEPjULjVpZrf5SMaAtHOEALw_ wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds). Used it in the past in 7 motorcycles with a combined 10K miles without a problem. Don't see how this engine is any different.

And for anyone wanting to read about synthetics in wet clutches, this is a good read. (https://www.zxforums.com/threads/clearing-up-the-myths-synthetic-oil-and-wet-clutches.13675/)

Now this is the internet, information posted here will be available to future generations using the search function. DO NOT take my info as gospel, I'm just a person posting on this internet. Do as you wish at your own risk.

[Falkon45]

Thanks for the replies guys. :thanks: I intend to do my break in with an actual filter, not a screen. I want to minimize the risk of metal 'sandpaper' of whatever makes it thru the screen.

Will stick to K&N for the first 2-3 filter changes. But hard to justify $10 a filter, when competitors are $17 for 4-5 of them on Amazon. Part of me says $10 a year, cheap insurance. The other part of me say :hmm::crazy::grr: @ paying more $ than needed.

Some say the O-ring is too small, some say it's too big on different bikes. But the filter is the same across the board. There's a debate if it has a backflow valve or not, but then again for the KPM to have a screen means there's no backflow valve anyway.

Amazon links below for reference. NOT RECOMMENDING THESE, JUST POSTING WHAT I FOUND AVAILABLE.
2 for $14 (https://www.amazon.com/Tvent-Replacement-CRF250L-CRF250M-CBR250R/dp/B08GG8J22S/ref=sr_1_16?crid=20C3JY3CPKD77&keywords=112+filter&qid=1655006497&sprefix=112+filter%2Caps%2C86&sr=8-16#customerReviews) and 10 for $20 (https://www.amazon.com/Physeed-Replacement-Polaris-Predator-Kawasaki/dp/B091GMP7ZV/ref=sr_1_18?crid=20C3JY3CPKD77&keywords=112+filter&qid=1655006497&sprefix=112+filter%2Caps%2C86&sr=8-18)

And I'm personally planning to use Rotella T6 15W40 (https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/shell-rotella-t6-15w-40-full-synthetic-heavy-duty-diesel-engine-oil-1-gallon-550050467/12043805-p?c3ch=PLA&c3nid=12043805-P&adtype=pla&product_channel=online&store_code=&gclid=Cj0KCQjw-pCVBhCFARIsAGMxhAdREeZWP2q7Lt-GxOpYYYtug3o5OpLVTIqBCh39hEPjULjVpZrf5SMaAtHOEALw_ wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds). Used it in the past in 7 motorcycles with a combined 10K miles without a problem. Don't see how this engine is any different.

And for anyone wanting to read about synthetics in wet clutches, this is a good read. (https://www.zxforums.com/threads/clearing-up-the-myths-synthetic-oil-and-wet-clutches.13675/)

Now this is the internet, information posted here will be available to future generations using the search function. DO NOT take my info as gospel, I'm just a person posting on this internet. Do as you wish at your own risk.

None of the filters have a backflow preventer. They aren't needed, as these are cartridge style filters, and not screw on type filters. They're constantly submerged in oil, rather than having to have oil fed into them. They do have a relief valve, though. l That's the most important part.

All my bikes use synthetic oil, except my ZX7R, at the moment. It's 22 years old, and I just want to see what the oil consumption is like before I make the move to synthetic. I've been a little leery about using normal car oil, and I'm not sure how much that would effect the clutch.

[KPM]

I've been a little leery about using normal car oil, and I'm not sure how much that would effect the clutch.

The issue with car oil isn't the oil itself. It's the 'reduced friction' modifiers used in some of them. Adding friction reducers onto your wet clutch plates that are supposed to grip via friction is the reason car oil isn't recommended.

Between 1. Normal car oil 2.Car oil with friction reducers 3.Wet clutches 4.Dry clutches that makes multiple combos that can and cannot mess up your clutches. Instead of trusting consumers and then having to put up with warranty claims, manufactures chose the most logical option and made a blank statement to NOT USE CAR OIL IN MOTORCYCLES. Of course the people that didn't listen and used the car oil with friction modifiers (cause you know, more expensive oil must be better) then started posting on the net also about their bad experiences, so that's what lead to the 'internet knowledge'.

If you want to use car oil in your motorcycle, research the following term and make your own decision. " Rotella t6 for motorcycles "

[Falkon45]

The issue with car oil isn't the oil itself. It's the 'reduced friction' modifiers used in some of them. Adding friction reducers onto your wet clutch plates that are supposed to grip via friction is the reason car oil isn't recommended.

Between 1. Normal car oil 2.Car oil with friction reducers 3.Wet clutches 4.Dry clutches that makes multiple combos that can and cannot mess up your clutches. Instead of trusting consumers and then having to put up with warranty claims, manufactures chose the most logical option and made a blank statement to NOT USE CAR OIL IN MOTORCYCLES. Of course the people that didn't listen and used the car oil with friction modifiers (cause you know, more expensive oil must be better) then started posting on the net also about their bad experiences, so that's what lead to the 'internet knowledge'.

If you want to use car oil in your motorcycle, research the following term and make your own decision. " Rotella t6 for motorcycles "

Yeah, I just looked it up. Apparently, the Rotella T6 carries a motorcycle rating. I might have to give it a shot. I still have a case of my castrol I need to finish, though. I guess I'll use those for the minis, and try the rotella on the KPM next oil change.

[Teklock]

The bike comes with a reusable stainless steel oil filter in it already. It doesn't filter enough for my liking, so I went with a conventional filter. If you don't plan to keep buying filters, the reusable filter is great for your riding. If you're careful with the o-ring, you shouldn't need to replace it.

I haven't received my bike yet so this is not completely clear to me. From videos I've seen of the new KPR. It seems there is a normal non-reusable oil filter and a reusable steel screen somewhere else that needs to be cleaned. Is that correct and just different from the new 2022 KPM?

[Falkon45]

I haven't received my bike yet so this is not completely clear to me. From videos I've seen of the new KPR. It seems there is a normal non-reusable oil filter and a reusable steel screen somewhere else that needs to be cleaned. Is that correct and just different from the new 2022 KPM?

Look on the KPM200 Resource thread. I have pictures of what comes in the bike, and the K&N filter I replaced it with.

This link (https://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_165539796503612&key=34762fb5761dc247f55c8a8e247c5fb4&libId=l4h99b2k0100j7ij000DL5rnls2kp&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.chinariders.net%2Fshowthread. php%3Ft%3D27356&v=1&opt=true&out=https%3A%2F%2Fphotos.app.goo.gl%2FfC5YusCp8xQR UDyu9&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.chinariders.net%2Fforumdispla y.php%3Ff%3D104&title=KPM%20200%20Resource%20thread%20-%20ChinaRiders%20Forums&txt=https%3A%2F%2Fphotos.app.goo.gl%2FfC5YusCp8xQR UDyu9) Also shows a bit of the oil change process. If the KPR comes with the NBF2 now, this should be your oil change process and components as well.

[Teklock]

Look on the KPM200 Resource thread. I have pictures of what comes in the bike, and the K&N filter I replaced it with.

This link (https://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_165539796503612&key=34762fb5761dc247f55c8a8e247c5fb4&libId=l4h99b2k0100j7ij000DL5rnls2kp&loc=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.chinariders.net%2Fshowthread. php%3Ft%3D27356&v=1&opt=true&out=https%3A%2F%2Fphotos.app.goo.gl%2FfC5YusCp8xQR UDyu9&ref=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.chinariders.net%2Fforumdispla y.php%3Ff%3D104&title=KPM%20200%20Resource%20thread%20-%20ChinaRiders%20Forums&txt=https%3A%2F%2Fphotos.app.goo.gl%2FfC5YusCp8xQR UDyu9) Also shows a bit of the oil change process. If the KPR comes with the NBF2 now, this should be your oil change process and components as well.

I did read your thread but it wasn't clear to me. You said "So, as I've stated before, the engine comes with two oil strainers. A coarse and fine strainer. But, if you don't think that's enough, I have found oil filters that may work: Fram ch6015-04" It sounds like from that post the K&N filter takes care of both of those strainers, but that's not the case.

This guy asked you the same question but it never was answered.

http://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=30899

I suspect the new ones don't come with the reusable filter either. Like herbie posted in his thread. I guess the OP can confirm.

[Falkon45]

Ahhh. I didn't see that question. You still need the coarse strainer. It's there to catch larger bits of debris that could pass and damage the filter and oil pump. It's same thing I have that deal with in my RC 390. But, the first strainer in the 390 is about the same micron as the main filter in the KPM, and it has a normal paper element filter as the main filter.

Overall, you still need both, no matter what.