Xpro Vader 125 - First Ride Attempt

[SpeedTurtle]

Hey guys, I’m a new user all around. New to the forums, riding, and motorcycles in general. I chose one of these clones for 2 reasons. Cheap and I want to learn motorcycles in general and would rather learn on something not so expensive.

I have a Xpro Vader 125 Second Gen. Researching this bike indicated that I should do some upgrades.

Let me say where I’m at.

I’m at 0 odometer miles.

What I’ve done so far is

Changed oil.
Emissions Delete.
Upraded Carb. New Vm22 mikumi clone.
Tighten up the bolts around the bike.

The carb gave me a few issues but it turns on and idles at 1500rpm (at least yesterday it did).

Now for my questions.

#1: Regarding the pictures, there seems to be some leak on that part of the exhaust. Should I adjust or is this just how it is? This is how it came from the factory. I’m in Houston TX btw, (very humid) so if that’s how it deals with the humidity then idk. This was about 1 minute of run-time.

#2: Finding Neutral is kinda impossible. I may be a new rider but after passing the msf course, I know how to find it. (I read that it may be difficult to find during the break in period). What do you guys think?

#3: Yesterday she was idling at roughly 1500 rpm in neutral, now in first gear (completely stopped) she seems to have fallen down to 1000-1200. I haven’t adjusted it since yesterday. Should I just readjust or leave as is?

Thanks everyone!

[4T_Goblin]

That looks like water, so humidity could be having a go in your pipes.

It's a brand new bike, not even broken in, so you'll have some smells, some wetness, some issues shifting.

For your idle circuit- sounding like it's rich, but I can't be sure. Set your AF mixture screw to the highest steadiest idle by leaning it out, and then turn it back rich a 1/8 a turn after you find the high idle spot.
Once it's steady you can dial the idle screw to whatever you want.

[SpeedTurtle]

That looks like water, so humidity could be having a go in your pipes.

It's a brand new bike, not even broken in, so you'll have some smells, some wetness, some issues shifting.

For your idle circuit- sounding like it's rich, but I can't be sure. Set your AF mixture screw to the highest steadiest idle by leaning it out, and then turn it back rich a 1/8 a turn after you find the high idle spot.
Once it's steady you can dial the idle screw to whatever you want.

Thanks for the reply!

I have a video of what it sounds like, what do you think?

https://odysee.com/zz39819:5

I tried taking off and it just cuts out. Hardly started moving and turns off. :doh:

[4T_Goblin]

There are lots of posts on and tons of YouTube content regarding this carb. I would look that up first as you might come across this exact issue

I have a genuine mikuni and it took me a while to get it right but any carb can be tuned if you know what to look for

Check out your pilot circuit and your float height, that should be a good start

[Doubledown]

There are lots of posts on and tons of YouTube content regarding this carb. I would look that up first as you might come across this exact issue

I have a genuine Mikuni and it took me a while to get it right but any carb can be tuned if you know what to look for

Check out your pilot circuit and your float height, that should be a good start

Wondering where you got your intake pipe from? Do you have the same bike as the OP?
I wanted to get a genuine Mikuni initially but was finding it a pain to find an intake pipe that was correct for the motor as well as the carb side. All the knock offs have mounting holes that are offset up whereas Mikuni are right in the middle.
I ended up getting a knock off that I haven't setup yet but if there are issues I would like to know what intake you got so I have options. Thank you,

[Doubledown]

Agree with 4t on 1 & 3.

Regarding neutral, I have a BD125-8, which I believe is the same motor, that I now have just under 300 miles where the shifting is just smoothing out and neutral is getting skipped paste far less often.
I wouldn't worry about it until you are up in the mileage as I am finding, and reading, these have a long "break in" period for smoothness.

[4T_Goblin]

I bought a 26mm intake from Amazon that had the right holes for my mikuni vm22-133

The shifting issue can be addressed through looking at each adjustment point along the clutch cable. First at the tensioner midway up the cable, next at the lever, third under the clutch cover but I really think a little bit of break in is in order. Give it a hundred miles. If you find that you can't find neutral while the bike is on, but can easily with it off, then you might check under your clutch cover, see about that set screw

I recommend riding the bike stock until you have to fix something then do mods.