Templar 250 resource guide [Archive]

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Fast_Freddy

01-22-2023, 04:39 PM

This is a collaborative effort that will be updated as new information becomes available. Please contribute what you can and leave discussion in other threads. We want to keep this thread limited to Templar 250 spec's, facts, useful info and links. Thanks to everyone in advance for your contributions!

Below are the guidelines for contribution:

-No live links to external vendor websites like Amazon (they die, sometimes quickly)
Instead, include the full description that can be googled, and you can mention the vendor(s) that have it to make it easy to find.
-No personal posts about your bike. Start your own thread to post that, or questions for forum members to help you out
-Links to ChinaRiders threads or individual posts are definitely useful, because there is lots of useful information hidden all over this website.
-Do not post untested parts or methods, only things that are proven to work. A link to your successful install or procedure on your own thread is perfect.
-Photos can be very useful if you have them.

Thanks!

Brakes:

Front & rear pads: FA86

Carb: Youall PE28, 120 main jet, 40 pilot jet, 1.5 turns out on idle mixture screw

*Suggested jetting start point for 0-2000' ASL: 125 main, 42 pilot, +1mm needle, 1.5 turns out on idle air mixture screw (YMMV)

How to: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=383473&postcount=25
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=389779&postcount=5

Exhaust: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=396893&postcount=28

Valves: Clearance .05mm +/- 0.02mm (.001-.003") *Cold

How to: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=393474&postcount=23

https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=382047&postcount=496

Spark plug: Torch D8TC (oem), NGK D8EA (copper), NGK DPR8EIX-9 (iridium) GAP: 0.6-0.8mm (.024-.031")

Ignition: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=390235&postcount=9

Headlight bulb: Base Templar: H6 BA20D, X/M: H4/9003/HB2

Replacement headlamp (https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=396352&postcount=29)

Front sprocket: 13 tooth

http://www.chinariders.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=27145&d=1656684324

Rear sprocket: X: 49 teeth Base/M: 47 teeth
28667
X/M* '23+ base Templar
29218
2022 Base/M*

* Templar M is known to ship with hubs drilled for either JTR210 or JTR897. Measure before ordering.
* Titan 2023+ now uses JTR210
* Oilcan has a 2023 Templar that uses JTR210 so 2023 Templar owners should measure before ordering.
* Apparently all Templar models from MY23 up use JTR210 rear sprocket. Measure your bike to be sure.

Chain:
Templar: 520x112L
X/M: 520x112L

Body panels: X/M = 2007-2009 Suzuki RMZ 250 (fitment verified), Base = 2013-2016 KTM 125-450 (unverified, try at your own risk)

Front forks: https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=32140

Rear shocks: https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=393341&postcount=22

How to lower your Templar (https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=399944&postcount=33)

Texas Pete's Torque Spec's (https://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_169618736469111&key=34762fb5761dc247f55c8a8e247c5fb4&libId=ln7u8smr0100j7ij000ULhfnl9688&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.chinariders.net%2Fshowthread .php%3Ft%3D27361%26page%3D2&v=1&opt=true&out=https%3A%2F%2Fdrive.google.com%2Ffile%2Fd%2F1d Awk8PladjcXnwD23IkAJmpODkhS-HNg%2Fview&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.chinariders.net%2Fsearch.php %3Fsearchid%3D3520420&title=Speedometer%20calibration%3F%20-%20Page%202%20-%20ChinaRiders%20Forums&txt=Texas%20Pete%27s%20Templar%20X%20250%20Torque% 20Specifications%20Sheet)

Texas Pete's wheel and tire specs and fitment (https://redirect.viglink.com/?format=go&jsonp=vglnk_171028411197611&key=34762fb5761dc247f55c8a8e247c5fb4&libId=ltoyzqpo0100j7ij000ULk1kx4hwj&loc=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.chinariders.net%2Fprivate.ph p%3Fdo%3Dshowpm%26pmid%3D61236&v=1&type=U&opt=true&out=https%3A%2F%2Fdocs.google.com%2Fspreadsheets%2 Fd%2F1YkUDLQS-F5d9xxIcCa3sLKVpk_iwCBgpv8XbDWVfXoQ%2Fedit%3Fusp%3 Dsharing&ref=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.chinariders.net%2Fprivate.ph p&title=ChinaRiders%20Forums%20-%20Tire%20and%20Rim%20Specifications%20for%20Templ ar%20X%20250%20Resources%20guide.&txt=https%3A%2F%2Fdocs.google.com%2Fspreadsheets%2 Fd%2F1YkUDLQS-F5d9xxIcCa3sLKVpk_iwCBgpv8XbDWVfXoQ%2Fedit%3Fusp%3 Dsharing)

Special thanks to Thumper for pioneering the way for future Templar owners, JerryHawk250 for moderating this great forum and all the members who contributed to this resource.

Okierider

01-22-2023, 06:21 PM

Rear sprockets-in this case 40 tooth JT Sprockets JTR210.40

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000GTYI44?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Plastics and graphics compatible with 2007-2009 RMZ 250

https://www.revzilla.com/motocross/acerbis-standard-plastic-kit-suzuki-rm-z-250-2007-2009?sku_id=737962

Carb Jets:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B08DY1XHR5?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

tknj99

01-23-2023, 10:15 AM

42T Rear Sprocket: JT Sprockets JTR210.42
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0068OC2T4/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bark Busters: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DXVKMVJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1

Thumper

01-23-2023, 06:41 PM

If this thread is going to be useful for QUICK, EASY to FIND information, please stick to tested solutions/procedures/equipment, or links to YOUR thread or a description of a tested and useful modification or maintenance procedure, with photo(s) if you have them. This advice is spread over hundreds of links-the idea here is to limit posts to useful information and links. Avoid links that might die (amazon, aliexpress), and PLEASE, no questions (post them in the main Forum).

Links to your posts in other threads where you worked out the details are good. A photos of the modification, maintenance procedure, or accessory is welcomed, along with a description of any issues related to the work...
Here are a few:

OEM smoothbore YouAll carb opening and rejetting, with pics. This is from the 2022 1/2 Templar X thread in the video and pics section. It shows how to take out the screws if they are "difficult":

https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=383309&postcount=7

This one has the jets, link and description, and recommended jets:

https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=383473&postcount=25

Weight (282lbs):
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=408616&postcount=23

HERE is a link to a post on Valve adjustment, with a pic. For the 172FMM (this engine), adjust your valves on a cold engine. In this post (link below) I recommended 0.002 on the intake, and 0.0025" on the exhaust. Some have recommended 0.001" on the intake, and 0.002" on the exhaust. There is a minor chance that when the engine heats up to running temp, the valves may not fully close, which can result in burn through in the long term (valve seat/valve damage). This problem is worse on push rod driven valves, where the length of the rod increases expansion changes upon heating, but this is an OHC head. So 0.001" might be fine on the intake. And the exhaust valve may close completely if set at 0.002" cold. The slightly wider gaps insure complete valve closure:
VALVE ADJUSTMENT procedure, with photos (https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=393474&postcount=21)

Nutcracker found and posted this front fork video. NICE (THANKS!).
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=382526&postcount=545

Front Fork REBUILD:
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=382540&postcount=546

And one from Blueridge on fork oil change:
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=382768&postcount=549

FRONT WHEEL BEARINGS/SEALS AND AXEL:
They are identical to Honda CRF250R for more than a decade (2004-2018) and also compatible with KTM SX 250, 380, 400, 520, 2000-2002. YES, the Axel too.
Bearing type: 6904 2RS - Dimensions: 37 x 20 x 9 mm
31644
Dimensions of shaft seals: 37 x 26 x 7 mm (6 or 7mm on thickness)

Thumper

01-24-2023, 09:12 AM

TK found this post for me. I had posted it in my thread in video and pics but there are SO many!
2022 Templar X 250 build quality and assembly

This is written for doing the job while the carb it still on the bike (yes, you can!!):

The taper on the jet needle determines just how much fuel is allowed up into the venturi area from the float bowl as the slide is lifted (throttle twist). Some needles have a clip and maybe 5 positions to select from. But even if your needle doesn't have this adjustment, you can shim it with washers without changing the position of the clip. That lifts the needle too. I remember learning how to do this on Suzuki CV carbs. The concept is the same, but much easier with just one carb!

It's tight but doable without removing the exhaust on the Templar X. If you do remove the carb, while you are in there, you may also want to bump main jet by one step, and I've also bumped the pilot by one step (still need brief choke to start in cold weather, but not in Summer). It is much easier to remove/replace the carb if you remove the exhaust and rear shock. But here is the method for doing this while carb is still on the bike...

Here's how to shim the needle:
You can loosen the clamps on both sides of the carb, twist the carb top to the right, unscrew the slide cap, and pull the slide out over the head pipe.

Remove the cable from the slide by making slack so the clamped button on the end of the cable can come out via the slot on the side of the slide. You need to compress the large return spring to make slack in the cable. Careful not to lose control of the spring, and keep it clean.

Now that you have the slide out and disconnected from the carb, reach in with hemostat or long skinny pliers to pinch and remove the clip down in the bottom of the slide. Push the needle up/out of the slide. Slide a tiny washer (1mm thick or so-thickness determines shim height) onto the needle and reinstall the needle. You have now shimmed the needle.

Reinstall the needle clip to hold the needle in the slide. The needle clip/clamp that holds the needle down won't seem to fit all the way down, but that's OK... It will be held down by the large spring-no problem

Reinstall the cable (don't forget to make sure the large spring is between the slide cap and slide barrel. Now you see the large spring holding down the needle clip at the bottom of the slide, even though the clip didn't seem to fit. It's going nowhere, and the needle will stay planted!

Put the slide back into the carb. The slot on the side of the slide must align with the guide post in the inside of slide tower (only one way in!).
Screw the cap back on and straighten the carb back in place, tighten the clamps. Done.

Thumper

01-24-2023, 09:37 AM

The OEM idle adjustment screw (slide height) is knurled, But it is still a little difficult to reach, pinch and twist. Good news is that there are inexpensive replacements with big "knobs"! I found one on AliExpress for $2.82 plus a few bucks shipping. It is a perfect fit. To find it, Google:

ZS Racing Motorcycle Carburetor Idle Speed Adjustment Screw For Universal PWK Carburetor

WARNING: This knob will hit the frame on the base Templar. So this upgrade is good for Templar X and Templar M models.

It takes about 3 weeks by US mail, but worth it. Just order it and forget about it. It will show up eventually! There are others out there. Just keep with the dimensions.

I measured the OEM slide screw first. Diameter/length of the nub was good, and it fit in my thread gauge (M5-0.80) so I tried it:

28418

The add on AliExpress shows dimensions, and they match:

28419

Here it is installed
28420

Only one thing to keep in mind... The spring that comes with it it strong and kind of too long, so I reused the OEM spring from the original. ALSO, the thing comes with a nice washer, which I used on the carb side of the spring.

NOTE: this replacement idle adjustment knob fits Keihin PE replacement carbs (PE28 is a direct replacement).

AIRSCREW:
It is an airscrew (adjusts air, not fuel), so counterclockwise is leaner. Find it on the right side behind the idle adjustment knob. Drill out the EPA cap, it is a brass flathead screw in there. Gently close and count how many turns it was. Then open to 1-1/2 to start (or adjust based on your knowledge and what it was).

31634

Fast_Freddy

01-24-2023, 01:52 PM

Regarding the shimming of the needle jet, you can buy special shim washers (https://smile.amazon.com/Sudco-Shims-Needle-Keihin-009-396/dp/B00T6J9Z7K/ref=sr_1_1?crid=8RCPJJQ85PQB&keywords=carb+needle+shim+washers&qid=1674586238&sprefix=carb+needle+shim+washers%2Caps%2C157&sr=8-1) sold specifically for this purpose that are 0.5mm thick or get 0.5mm thick M3 washers from any hardware store. SAE #4 washers can also be used but are slightly larger diameter and thicker (0.8mm). It's best to use stainless steel or brass.

tknj99

01-24-2023, 02:08 PM

Replacement carb for anyone that botches up the oem one or doesn't want to fuss or muss with it: For PE28 28mm,KIMISS Carburetor Carb Fits for Honda CR80 CR80RB 1996-2002 CR85 CR85R 2003
https://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/asin/b07h6l1gwv?tag=namespacebran131-20

Thumper

02-03-2023, 04:14 PM

If you want to buy a fixed advance high performance or adjustable CDI box, you have to choose AC or DC. Which is it on the 5 speed Templar X ?

The power in wire on a DC CDI box gets 12V as soon as you turn on the ignition, whereas an AC type isn't powered until the engine is turning over so it gets AC power directly from the stator. Here is a picture of the CDI box on the Templar. The front wire in the photo (black/red) is the power wire. It does NOT get powered when you turn on the ignition. The other clue is that it is the narrower, smaller type of CDI box, which are typically AC type. Some AC CDIs are larger, but AC CDIs can be the smaller format, and this is.

NOTE: My 6speed Templar X has a DC CDI unit. This adjustable AC unit won't work on the 6 speed.

28491

TESTED-WORKS. The Naraku adjustable advance CDI worked in my 5-speed Templar X
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qm42eL-fmfo

28492

NOTE: ADVANCE KEY VERSUS ELECTRONIC CDI ADVANCE??
Electronic advance is a standard used in high performance engines. It is plug and play, no wrenching, but there are other advantages, including no advance at idle (prevents kickback...easier starting). In other words, an advance key changes the firing time by a fixed number all the way across rpm range including idle (when you don't want it and don't need it).
Here is more information on this:
https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=32071&highlight=ignition

Thumper

02-06-2023, 05:10 PM

HERE IS A WIRING DIAGRAM from my 2022 TemplarX (5-speed) owners manual:

31343

NOTE: The wiring diagram is incomplete, doesn't show lights/horn/ignition lockout circuits!

It is a good idea to wrap the rear wires in a protector. I posted this last year:
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=378843&postcount=1
See the 6th and 7th pics.

But the wiring needs to be pinned up on the fender. I did this on the 6 speed, but finally did it on the 5 speed. Simple task-just drill a couple of holes for each zip strip position. Two of them seems enough for mine:
28518
28519
28520

Zooker89

02-06-2023, 09:12 PM

It is a good idea to wrap the rear wires in a protector. I posted this last year:
https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=378843&postcount=1
See the 6th and 7th pics.

But the wiring needs to be pinned up on the fender. I did this on the 6 speed, but finally did it on the 5 speed. Simple task-just drill a couple of holes for each zip strip position. Two of them seems enough for mine:
28518
28519
28520

This is the thing that bothered me the most about the bike. I have done the same thing, but am using the sticky zip tie holders under the fender. If they pop off I will drill and zip tie like you. I originally didn't want the holes, but I would rather that than ripping the harness out.

Texas Pete

02-25-2023, 02:00 PM

I have fished my now grease stained and handwritten marked up Templar X 250 Torque Specifications Spreadsheet that I had made and updated it and put the document up on Google Drive for anyone to download.

Update now includes separate columns for Nuts, Bolts and Other (Usually Socket Cap screw heads, etc.).

I have started to populate the bolt and nut sizes as I encounter them (and remember to record them!) on the sheet. If folks want to continue to fill out the blanks and then share a copy of their data back I'll re-compiled their updated information into the document for all to be able to download the latest updates with.

Added in this update:

New columns for bolts, nuts and other fasteners
Some populated figures for the above
Engine guard plate (skid plate)
Engine oil bolt (inc. my torque specifications I use)

Screenshot:

https://www.chinariders.net/data:image/png;base64,iVBORw0KGgoAAAANSUhEUgAAAgsAAACOCAIAAAA w39zbAAAACXBIWXMAAA7EAAAOxAGVKw4bAAAgAElEQVR4nO3de 1xM+f8H8M9M97tipKysUBIVSTaX5PKIkrKhEpWw7pbciq3IEna tdavNhooUubW5dlsJlUrpJkqiC61UozJTzZnz++N8d36zMyOlm TkzeT//8Gim47zf53RmPnNm5rw+FBzHEQAAAMCHSnYDAAAAJBSMEAAAAA SDEQIAAIBgMEIAAAAQDEYIAAAAgsEIAQAAQDAYIQAAAAgGIwQA AADBYIQAAAAgGIwQAAAABIMRAgAAgGAwQgAAABAMRggAAACCwQ gBAABAMBghAAAACAYjBAAAAMFghAAAACAYjBAAAAAEgxECAACA YDBCAAAAEAxGCAAAAILJCmUtFApFKOsBAAhRS0uLqqoq2V0AyY LjeNcXFs4I0d2qQkShUMRfmpSiJNYFUg2OGVJI5qO1u6/m4V0mAAAAggntHKK7CgoKSkpKEEIUCkVTU3P8+PF9+vQRW93Jk ycPHDgQIZSVlcVgMKZOnSqG0uXl5RkZGa2trSYmJlZWVmKoKNX YbPbFixc1NTVtbW0RQq2trQkJCTNmzOjXrx/ZrYHuIf52PHfa29urqamR0g/oBlwYvmA927dvRwiZm5ubm5v369dPVVX10aNHYihN1J0zZw5x0 9PTc/r06aIuiuP4wYMHZWVlBw8ePHr0aCqV6uDg0N7eLoa60ovBYCCE KBRKdnY2juMvX75ECKWnp5Pdl5SRhGOmurra0NDQ0NBQSUlJUV GR+LmiooLsvkRLEvY8v+52RfK7TJmZmTk5Oc+fP29paYmPjxdP UW1t7Zs3byYnJ4unHEKooKDA19d31apVL1++LCgouHLlSkJCwp 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28685

Get your copy of the Torque Specifications here:

https://drive.google.com/file/d/1dAwk8PladjcXnwD23IkAJmpODkhS-HNg/view?usp=sharing

Let me know if the link does or doesn't work for you in a separate PM to keep this thread clean.

Old-dude

03-01-2023, 12:35 AM

Nice!!!! Since thereis no service manual (at least that i can find) this is very valuable info.

ThanksTexas Pete!

Old-dude

03-01-2023, 12:37 AM

Oh and also a shout out to Thumper. Already using some of his carb info... Thanks again!!

The carb comes out fairly easy without removing exhaust or shock.

1. lossen the hose clamps on the inlet and outlet of the carb.
2.Carb can then be slide out of intake mount and airfilter.
3.Remove the the 2 intake screws 8 mm & remove intake
4.unscrew the needle
5. uncrew the choke cable
6. Remove fuel line
7.Carb can now be removed from right side

Fast_Freddy

03-05-2023, 07:49 PM

Fork preload spacers for the KKE forks are available from Joe Henner Motorsports. Joe can be contacted on Facebook (https://www.facebook.com/hennermotorsports) or by email at race858@yahoo.com

tknj99

03-20-2023, 08:12 AM

I actually had spare jets on hand to fit the main and i think this was the pilot but don't quote me on that as i may be mixing it up with the pilot jet from my former Titan DLX: https://www.amazon.com/Motofoal-pilot-Bleed-MIKUNI-Carburetor/dp/B09VS7M62Q/ref=sr_1_2?crid=Y9K1J5RK2UZE&keywords=jet+kit+vm22&qid=1679314172&sprefix=jet+kit+vm22%2Caps%2C77&sr=8-2

The needle is adjustable and the carb fits exactly as the stock one does.

WeebleWobble

03-26-2023, 05:20 PM

As mentioned in the main Templar thread, there is no gasket between the intake boot and cylinder head. I was able to find a gasket at my local Autozone auto parts store that is a good fit. It's a thermostat housing gasket, part #35368.

28892

28893

28894

Okierider

04-15-2023, 09:10 PM

What about replacement shocks? I am heavy and would like to replace at least the rear. Anyone know if there is there a cross reference bike?

Came here looking for this as well, or at least a new spring-I’m unfamiliar with how they are sized.

Fast_Freddy

04-16-2023, 11:43 AM

What about replacement shocks? I am heavy and would like to replace at least the rear. Anyone know if there is there a cross reference bike?

Unfortunately I don't have any information on replacement suspension components or exact specs for the oem parts. Your best bet is to start a new thread about it and any useful information posted will be added here as it becomes available.

Another option is to contact Joe Henner Motorsports on Facebook. He offers suspension tuning for Chinese bikes. I got some fork preload spacers from him recently that helped immensely with my too-soft Templar forks (I weigh 250lbs). Good luck.

Thumper

04-16-2023, 02:45 PM

The OEM spring on the KKE rear shock on the Templar is 350 lbs per inch. It is the stiffest spring available from KKE for that shock. I contacted KKE Racing
(2260 S. Haven Ave Unit B, Ontario California 91761, United States), but their primary motorcycle product for North America is wheels, not shocks. But they can get you a replacement shock.
KKE model number is MA40B03
He quoted me $169 plus $80 shipping
Ya I know, shipping is ridiculous, but these are OEM supplied by KKE, manufactured in China for motorcycle builders like Zuumav, Kamax, etc.

To figure out what spring could replace it (not KKE racing), measure the mounted length from end to end first, Then you can remove the shock and measure the internal diameter on the mounting ends. You can measure the length uncompressed when you have it out if you want to. Overall spring length is kind of important. It might be hard to find much stiffer spring though.

FYI- I compressed the shock by more than one inch and it was STIFF!!!

Chances are, all you really need to do is compress the preload.

Look at posts 12 through 14 in this thread for a how to on preload adjustment:
https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=31860

Alternatively, The bolt diameter is 10mm (upper and lower rear shock mounts) and bushing length (22mm for the upper, and I think the lower one is identical - you can measure it). Find a shock with the same mounting bolt size, ~ same length or shorter if you want to lower it (1" shorter creates ~3" to 3-1/2" lowering). The only possible issue is the side mounted ballonet has to be at a slight angle to fit. Just get one without a ballonet to avoid that problem!.

Here are some specs I sent to KKE racing:
Some specifications:
-460mm distance from top to bottom mounting positions (center to center of mounting holes)
-10mm bolts top and bottom (mounting holes)
-22mm wide upper mount bushing
-350lbs/inch spring
-rebound adjustment is at the base of the cylinder on the lower mount
-compression adjustment is on the top of the ballonet

Thumper

04-18-2023, 08:46 PM

Adjusting the valves on these SOHC 249cc 4 stroke engines is really easy. But depending on the make model you have, you may have to take stuff off to get to the head, more work than the adjustment in most cases! :crazy: So plan any other things you might want to do with the tank off.
The procedure described here can be applied to practically any OHC four stroke (push rod engines just need wider gaps), but this is written for the 172FMM-3A which is the OEM 5 speed engine on the Spring 2022 Templar X and currently on the Templar M and standard Templar. Same procedure applies to the 6 speed.

Templar X started to ship with a 6 speed counterbalanced version of this engine later last Summer, the ZS172FMM-5 (yeah I know, why -5 if it is a 6 speed!) but the valve adjustment is the same for ALL of the 172FMM engines, including the ones on other brands like Lifan.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Heads UP! Start this task with almost empty fuel tank.:tup:
Not necessarily in exactly this order, here is what to do on the Templar:

-Take the seat off. Find the two 8mm bolts just behind the forward rack mount on the Templars.

-Remove the gas tank. Here comes the fun part. You need to drain the tank or have golf tees ready to plug the hoses as you remove them. This isn't all that complicated, so I am not going to give step by step instructions. The Golf Tees work!! So now you can remove the tank... Two 6mm allen bolts (one on each end of the tank) AND two more 8mm bolts at the front lower mounts for the air wings that mount to the black metal framed louvres. The gas tank rests forward on those wings nicely, off in the corner somewhere.

Now remove the right side metal wind louvre (two more 8mm bolts). OK, that is the worst of it. Now would be the time to replace the coil or other work under there if you need to.

-Take the spark plug out. This is optional, but it makes it much easier to get the crankshaft positioned TDC, and you can read the plug to see if you are running lean or rich.

-remove the access port on the left case, and put a 14mm socket on the nut that holds the flywheel/harmonic balancer/rotor on the crankshaft. Just in case you did not know, the stator is mounted inside this rotor.

-remove the view port on the top of the left case to see the timing marks for aligning TDC
Here is a photo showing these two ports BIG flathead screwdriver on the 5speed, 10mm allen wrench on the 6speed:

29042
29043

-Counterclockwise rotation on the crank. I like to use a 3/8" breaker bar ($12 at Herbie Fright) to rotate the crank (14mm socket).

29046

This gives you extreme control on the position of the crank. The valve springs are strong, and the crank slips past TDC SOoo easily. Slow counterclockwise movement to keep the cam chain tensioned/valves closed at TDC.

-As you rotate the crank, watch for the T| mark on the rotor. Align the | just right of the T

29045

OK, It is a 4 stroke engine (2 revolutions), so either BOTH valves are closed (compression stroke), or just the intake valve is closed (exhaust stroke). You can rotate the crankshaft and watch the rocker arms as the crank approaches TDC.
Leave it at TDC with BOTH valves closed so you can adjust both of them. A 10mm nut locks the adjustment stem-loosen it. Adjust it with a little screwdriver to 0.002" on both (0.0015" is OK on the intake side).

29047

The tappet stem WILL tighten when you secure it with the 10mm locking nut if you don't hold it at position. Check it after you tension it. Gorilla tightening is NOT advised. Just snug it down and then another 1/8th turn to lock. Seriously, Don't. You don't want to replace these!

Close it all up and you are done.

tknj99

04-18-2023, 08:53 PM

Nice write-up on valve adjustments, although you can get away with not having to drain the tank by just lifting it to one side and resting on something while you do the adjustments. Also, after removing the spark plug i found it to be very informative to use a long wooden dowel or something you can inset in the plug hole to feel when the piston is at the top

Thumper

04-23-2023, 02:50 PM

Here is a good option for a replacement battery for the Templars. The dimensions are shown:
29072

I got one last year for the 6 speed. It has performed well. I just got another for the 5 speed, and it cost even less ($26.99). Found it in Amazonia. It is slightly bigger but fits perfectly in the battery cradle.

Google this description to find it.
Weize YTX5L-BS High Performance - Maintenance Free

Fast_Freddy

05-19-2023, 09:51 PM

So I am still looking at this.. I appreciate your research.

Unfortunately the Templar and Templar M do not have preload adjustments.

I think the most cost effective solution is a replacement spring with more lbs per sq in.

Still kicking myself for not getting the X...

The Templar and M both have preload adjustment on the rear shock. Fork preload spacers are available from Joe Henner Motosports. You can contact him on Facebook. Here is a video (https://youtu.be/671kXyVSwOY)showing fork spacer installation. I myself am running Henner's max spacers which require a bit more disassembly to install but work great for my 250lb weight.

IA_Grvlrnr

05-22-2023, 06:54 PM

Find yourself a Stainless Steel middle/Mid-Pipe Slip-On Connector Replacement for a Piaggio:

BEVERLY 125/300 2009-2016
MP3 125 2008-2014
MP3 250/250LT 2008-2013
MP3 300/300LT 2008-2016
X10 125 2012-2016

Found this 51mm/2" muffler adapter to work great. The O.D. of the stock exhaust pipe is ~32mm. It was available from a few sources with a search. You may need to fine tune the length depending on the dimensions of the muffler to get muffler mount to line up.

https://chinariders.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=29264&stc=1&d=1684793466

https://chinariders.net/attachment.php?attachmentid=29268&stc=1&d=1684795895

Fast_Freddy

06-16-2023, 02:57 PM

The stock headlamp on the Templar is worthless. It's a reflector housing which only works well with incandescent bulbs but it is fitted with a very cheap, low output LED bulb. The only incandescent bulbs that fit the BA-20D base are low wattage and useless for a headlight. I tried installing a better LED but although much brighter, it had a terrible beam pattern (as expected). It was blinding to on-coming traffic with a weak, scattered pattern extending from roadway to sky.

LED headlights require a projector housing to work properly so I decided to test this dual projector replacement headlamp assembly from Amazon.

29443

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BRQ1ZZL3?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details

Watch for coupons on this item. I got 40% off and today it's 20% off. The same headlamp is also available with a plastic number plate and mounting straps on Amazon for ~$60 (hthttps://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B13XDLNS/ref=twister_B0B2PJBQC7?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1tp://).

Installation was a breeze. The light assembly is a direct fit replacement for the oem unit. The new light includes a separate pigtail connector to allow you to change the wiring pinout to match the oem 4-pin male harness plug. The oem wire color assignments are listed below:

Green - ground
White - low beam/running light*
Brown - running light/low beam*
Blue - high beam

* Interchangeable. Both are +12v when headlamp switch is 'on'

I wired mine:

OEM - New
Green - black (gnd)
white - white (RL)
blue - brown (HB)
brown - blue (LB)

The results are amazing! The beam pattern is near perfect, the cut-off is clean and well defined and the light output is very impressive. I would definitely buy it again. It is the single biggest improvement to my Templar yet. I don't plan to ride a lot at night but at least now I can and with confidence.

Note: I have no idea if this fits the Templar X or M number plate but the version with a new plate should fit without issue.

Minisumo

08-01-2023, 10:18 AM

Templar X replacement throttle cable that is the same as the original is the Nibbi CB Throttle cable 36.8"/5.0 or 36.8/5.1. And comes in different colors if you are into that.

Leroi

09-22-2023, 07:55 PM

New user here, I have read the entire post of the Templar X, a lot of it several times. I ordered the Templar X after reading.
Mine has a born on date of June 2023, and they have addressed a few issues noted in earlier posts.
Mine has an intake gasket, it also has a washer between the right side rear axle spacer to make clearance for the brake caliper, so no dragging of the pads.
Removing the carb is a pain, and I followed directions from user Old-Dude to get it out by removing the intake "manifold" and modify it.

When it came time to adjust the shock, I was too impatient to hammer it around one notch at a time. I started to remove the air box and then figured out.
1.Remove the seat and right side panel (if you cut a notch with a razor knife instead of the hole, you don't have to loosen the luggage rack every time you need to remove the panel, I read that somewhere on here and did it).
2.Muffler
3. Crankcase vent from airbox to engine. (I tried both ends, and the engine side is easier to reinstall).
4. Loosen clamp on rear of carburetor to airbox.
5.Remove two allen head screws in the frame and loosen the bolt right behind the gas tank.

Now the entire rear subframe will pivot up and rest on the gas tank.
Battery and all wiring stays in place.

You have unrestricted access to the shock preload adjustment and also a straight shot at the carburetor. I was able to change the jets without (removing the gas tank)....Duh, I meant to say disconnecting the carb cables or fuel line.

Hope someone finds this useful.

Thumper

09-22-2023, 09:07 PM

I just remove the exhaust to pull the carb out. You do not have to remove the tank to get the carb out.

In fact, you can pull the slide out without removing the exhaust (just loosen the clamps and twist the carb to shim the needle). There are exhaust gaskets (in this thread, above) if you need one for reinstallation of the exhaust.

To get the rear shock out, just remove the upper mount bolt, and the lower linkage. The shock drops out the bottom in minutes.

I took the rear frame off when I first got my X too. I wanted to check out the structure, reassemble with loctite where needed, but I wont do that again. That is way more work than either removing the exhaust to get the carb out, and way more work than unbolting the rear shock and dropping it out the bottom. The linkage is easy to put back together, and you can drill a new lower mounting hole on the rear shock to lower the bike while it is out. I compressed the rear shock spring to dial up some preload (turned the collar by hand with spring compressed!).

Thumper

09-22-2023, 11:03 PM

I see that your description has the rear frame pivoting, not removed. Your photos showed it entirely removed. But you still have to remove the muffler to pivot the frame. But as I said, you can easily remove the rear shock through the bottom. Just remove the top mounting bolt and the linkage. I have a spring compression tool so I can compress it and tighten the adjustment collar by hand. It is easier on those threads (aluminum), and reinstallation of the shock is easy.

And removing the carb is easy if you remove the exhaust. Removing the exhaust is easier than pivoting the frame too. It is just less work.

No need to mess with the rear frame.

GypsyR

09-23-2023, 12:25 PM

Not quite getting the rear shock adjustment. After immediately seeing the wrench I use on other bikes would in no way get in there I just grabbed a very long and skinny punch. Ground the end nice and flat and tapped it with a hammer until I got it to where I thought I might like it and test rode. Took like three minutes maybe. This is a '23 X, as we know not all Templars are 100% the same.

Thumper

09-25-2023, 09:10 AM

Here is the thread in the Dual Sport section about lowering the Templar X. I thought I should add a link to this thread to the resource guide so it is easier to find.

I added the lowering mount position on my Blue 2022 and a 1/2 Templar X before I sold it, and this thread has the photos from that process. I will probably do this with the 5 speed X this Winter, and dialup maybe a 1/3 inch of compression to stiffen it up. But I will just drop the bike a couple of inches, not 3 to 3-1/2 inches. To do this, I will drill the new hole closer to the original lower mounting position.

Note: If you have the entire shock/spring out, free from the bike, you can use a drill press and get the new mounting hole exactly where you want it, and square across the TWO forks. This is important for lining up for re-installation, but also for smoothe lower linkagage movement. It is a 10mm bolt, so a 10mm drill bit is best.

https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=31860

To remove the shock for this process, I will drop it out through the linkage area. As I mentioned a couple of posts back, this is an easy way to remove the rear shock.

GypsyR

09-25-2023, 10:08 AM

Because I seem to be that kind of person, I lowered my X the same way except I took nothing loose but the pivot link. Never pulled the shock and drilled it right there on the bike. I'm a mechanical shortcut kind of guy. Comes from spending some early years working flat rate I expect.

GypsyR

10-05-2023, 10:23 AM

If/when you take the seat off, have a look at that "button" that holds the front of the seat on. Take the screw out of it, put some Loc-Tite on it, and put it back. Mine loosened itself and there was nothing holding the front of the seat on. No big deal. But if you lose either that oddly short screw, or God forbid, that button you'll be in a bad way trying to find replacements I bet.

Texas Pete

10-13-2023, 05:35 PM

Templar X 250 Fuse: F10AL250V

F 10A L

F: Fast Blow
L: Low Over Current required to start blowing
10A: 10 Amps
250V: Can handle voltages up to 250 volts and still function as designed

Size Metric: 6x30mm
Size SAE: 1/4" x 1 1/4"

Example Domestic Supply (NAPA):
Fast Acting, Glass Tube, 1/4 x 1 1/4 (6.3 mm x 32 mm) Physical Size, Nickel Plated Brass Endcap Construction, UL Listed Product Meets Standard 248 14
Made in Taiwan vs Made in China
https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/BK_7822060

NAPA Fuse: BP/AGC-10-RP

BP: "Bolted Pigtail" type of fuse
AGC: All Glass C size Cartridge (1/4" x 1 1/4")
10: 10 Amp
RP: The "RP" in a fuse designation does not have a universally standardized meaning but may refer to a "rejection type" or "rejection pin" design, which is often used to ensure that fuses of the wrong amperage rating cannot be inserted into a circuit. R at the end usually means RoHS compliant, but there is nothing in the data sheets that mention what RP means.

Most AG fuses which are made for Automotive use have a Voltage Rating: 32V AC/DC

GypsyR

11-08-2023, 01:25 PM

Yet another Loc-Tite tip. When I had the seat off (again) I noticed that the rear brackets are (supposed) to be held to the plastic seat pan by two little screws in each. One of mine had gone and its mate loose. Turns out there are tiny nuts in the plastic pan that not secured terribly well. My nut had flipped over sideways, I had to flip it back square with a pick. I was able to match up the (tiny) missing screw out of my parts stash but it was very much an oddball. Really difficult to tighten these suckers, even pressing hard on the cushion. Even harder to get them to start after you've taken one out. So actually instead of Loc-Tite I believe giving them a little tighten and then putting a dab of like hot glue or other glue over the head of the screw might be better preventative maintenance. It would at least keep you from losing the screws maybe

If I ever take the upholstery off my seat this is something I will definitely improve upon with some larger nutserts or something.

12-22-2023, 02:47 PM

Front & Rear brake pads - EBC FA86 . I have installed them and they improve braking. There is also EBC FA86HH That are supposed to be better in the dirt.

K'hermiit

12-23-2023, 08:06 AM

Does anybody know were I can find engine torque specs? I have tried everywhere including Joe Henner, GPX , and even Zuma. I want to install a 300cc big bore kit but, I need to Know the Engine Torque Specifications.

When no info is available, I use the fastener size and the threaded material to determine torque values. I have never experienced a failure doing this in 30 years.

Example for metric bolts...
https://i.postimg.cc/zBRrSv0K/Metric-Bolt-Torque-Chart.png (https://postimg.cc/62wgBWsp)

Thumper

01-05-2024, 12:11 PM

Here are measurements taken by GigaXi with photos:
Thank you!

https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=403224&postcount=11

Thumper

02-05-2024, 05:12 PM

I am posting this youtube video from youtube. He does a nice job demonstrating and discussing assembly, and he has lots of comments on the components, suspension. He has the 172FMM-3A (5 speed), which I have on my original Templar X. You have to go to youtube to view the video.

Hold the control key while clicking if it gives you any trouble

======https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DcVDa25F1jE======

This review is complete and he has lots of info with links for upgrades (Thanks!)

Weresquatch

02-06-2024, 03:28 PM

Thanks for dropping that link. That's the video that made me pull the trigger. I live in the same state and surrounded by the same terrain.

vividpixel

02-16-2024, 10:25 AM

Exact replacement for shift lever: a.co/d/3tbNWgD
Please copy and paste the link into your browser due to the forum's "VigLink" script breaking links.
Akozon Gear Shift Lever, Aluminium Alloy Motorcycle Gear Shifter Folding Foot Shifter for Kayo BSE Apollo Zongshen CG CB NC 125 150 200 250 450 ATV Quad Dirt Pit Bikes
▶ Suitable For: The gear shift lever fit for Kayo BSE Apollo Zongshen CG CB NC 125 150 200 250 450 ATV Quad Dirt Pit Bikes, universal for Chinese Engine Dirt Bike MX Motocross ATV Quad.
▶ Suitable For: The gear shift lever fit for Kayo BSE Apollo Zongshen CG CB NC 125 150 200 250 450 ATV Quad Dirt Pit Bikes, universal for Chinese Engine Dirt Bike MX Motocross ATV Quad.
▶ Premium Quality: The shift lever is made of premium aluminium alloy material, lighter and stronger than the stock lever, provide precise and comfortable shifting.
▶ Professional Design: The knurled shift lever tip designed for no‑slip shifting, also enhance the safety while kicking. Forged gear shift lever with CNC‑machined folding lever tip, with high structural durabilities.
▶ High Perormance: It will improve your driving experience and manipulative sense, provides a quicker and smoother shifting, more comfortable to drive.
▶ Simple Installation: The aluminium alloy gear shift lever is easy to install, direct replacement, great for repair, modification, decoration, etc. It can be installed quickly, no modification required.

vividpixel

02-16-2024, 08:48 PM

UPDATE: My previous clutch cable recommendation was only barely long enough, and I realized it may not even have fit for someone with a stock clutch lever. Here is a clutch cable I just installed that has plenty of slack, so should work for anybody.

You will have to copy-paste and replace the "0" with a letter "o", because the forum's "VigLink vBulletin Plugin v2.0.6" is messing with links and sending users to different sites.

amazon.c0m/dp/B00WUA4Y0U
GOOFIT 48.43" Clutch Cable for 200cc 250cc Water-Cooled ATV

While I'm here, these foot pegs were a perfect fit:
amazon.c0m/gp/product/B0CBRDTJGC
MZS Dirt Bike Foot Pegs, CNC Motocross Footpeg MX Footrest Rest Pedal Black Compatible with CRF150F | CRF230F | KDX200 | Light Bee S/X | X160 X260 | MX3 MX4 | XR150L | HAWK 250

JerryHawk250

02-19-2024, 08:11 AM

Link just goes to "Superoffers.com's" landing page.
Is this the shifter? https://www.amazon.com/Akozon-Aluminium-Motorcycle-Shifter-Zongshen/dp/B09Y88TB4Y

I only have this problem on my laptop and not every time. If you press the ctrl key when clicking on the link, the link will work properly.

Diehard

03-07-2024, 09:54 PM

Thanks to everyone for all the info you shared on the templar 250 x I've been lurking hard got my templar done and modded rk chain nibbi carb 30 mm cat delete lithium ion battery motoz tractionator desert ht rear tire 110/90/18 pirelli mt 21 rallycross 80/90/21 front tire Michilen heavy duty tubes bark busters mx pro graphics kit for 2007-2009 rmz 250 added a custom seat cover i found on ebay installedblna better head light and beefed up the factory brake pedal by welding some flat stock to the sides [/QUOTE]

vividpixel

03-11-2024, 02:22 PM

WOOSTAR 7/8" 22mm Handlebar 2 Function Right Start Switch
Copy and paste link: a.co/d/0GjGif1 (do not click it)
https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/5188m6fcxLL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

Shinigami117s

03-12-2024, 12:06 AM

So I’m confused with the cdi page. Is it ac or dc cdi?
The YouTube video shows the naraku unit working on the bike.
It doesn’t say if it’s ac or dc but looks like it’s an ac unit according to eBay?

I have a Templar 250 6 speed with no spark. What pin out goes where?
I put both green wires to ground. The blue wire to the pulse igniter coil. The red wire to positive 12v . White wire I tried disconnected or connected to 12v . And the yel/blk wire to the coil.

I don’t get any spark.

I’ve tried 3 Templar cdi units no luck. I tried a gold colored one and it works.

Twowheeler

03-29-2024, 02:16 PM

[QUOTE=Fast_Freddy;389714]This is a collaborative effort that will be updated as new information becomes available. Please contribute what you can and leave discussion in other threads. We want to keep this thread limited to Templar 250 spec's, facts, useful info and links. Thanks to everyone in advance for your contributions!

I bought the wrong NGK Iridium plug (DPR8EIX-9). It's longer than the OEM. I just ordered some OEM plugs. I could not find NGK DPREIX-9 (iridium). Maybe NGK discontinued it, or maybe it's a typo here, Idk. Also, my M rear shock is not the same as the X. There's no room to drill another hole. I've tried to put compressors on it to remove/replace it, but you can only get 1 on and it looks sketchy. I'd like to be able to get on it without Jackie Channing my leg over it. I'm definitely replacing the carb. The stock one is poorly adjusted. It spits and sputters and stalls. Also it makes the exhaust turn orange, when warming up. I can still start it and ride, but it uses a lot of fuel with it backfiring or whatever. I wish there were a dealer or shop that would work on it near me. There used to one, within 10 miles. None anywhere now. The Jap shops won't touch it, save for one place that will replace tires, etc. Any help/advice is welcome and appreciated. All I can find on here is tons of stuff about the X. I should have gotten it, but changed my mind at the last minute. I just had to have a kickstart.

GypsyR

03-29-2024, 08:17 PM

I bought the wrong NGK Iridium plug (DPR8EIX-9). It's longer than the OEM.
I've meaning to buy a new plug. Does that mean a plug for the X doesn't fit the M engine? That would be good info for folks to know.

By the way, when you quote someone it's easy to trim it down to the specific bit you want to quote. Example: what I just did above. No need to copy four pages for a sentence or two. Could be a thing that bugs just me though.

Twowheeler

04-03-2024, 03:45 PM

The Templar and M both have preload adjustment on the rear shock. Fork preload spacers are available from Joe Henner Motosports. You can contact him on Facebook. Here is a video (https://youtu.be/671kXyVSwOY)showing fork spacer installation. I myself am running Henner's max spacers which require a bit more disassembly to install but work great for my 250lb weight.

My 2022 M that I got in March 2023, has no adjustments and no gas charge. I tried to put spring clamps on in order to remove, but couldn't. I just wish now, that I'd bought the X. Mine has no way of drilling a hole higher up.:doh:

Fast_Freddy

04-03-2024, 10:30 PM

I bought the wrong NGK Iridium plug (DPR8EIX-9). It's longer than the OEM. I just ordered some OEM plugs. I could not find NGK DPREIX-9 (iridium). Maybe NGK discontinued it, or maybe it's a typo here, Idk. Also, my M rear shock is not the same as the X. There's no room to drill another hole. I've tried to put compressors on it to remove/replace it, but you can only get 1 on and it looks sketchy. I'd like to be able to get on it without Jackie Channing my leg over it. I'm definitely replacing the carb. The stock one is poorly adjusted. It spits and sputters and stalls. Also it makes the exhaust turn orange, when warming up. I can still start it and ride, but it uses a lot of fuel with it backfiring or whatever. I wish there were a dealer or shop that would work on it near me. There used to one, within 10 miles. None anywhere now. The Jap shops won't touch it, save for one place that will replace tires, etc. Any help/advice is welcome and appreciated. All I can find on here is tons of stuff about the X. I should have gotten it, but changed my mind at the last minute. I just had to have a kickstart.

DPR8EIX-9 will work in the ZS172FMM-3A engine. Yes, it is slightly longer than the stock plug but dozens (possibly hundreds) of people have been running this plug without issue. To be safe you could install it and hand crank the engine to confirm clearance.

DPREIX-9 was a typo. All NGK plug numbers have a numeric value in the middle that represents the heat range of the plug. Thanks for pointing out my typo, I have corrected it.

Are you sure there is no spring pre-load adjustment on the rear shock? Only the X has damping adjustments but the base model definitely has pre-load adjustment and I was certain that the M also had pre-load adjustment rings.

Please do me a favor and start a new thread for your bike. Ask questions there and you should get lots of useful help. We are trying to keep this thread dedicated to general information about the Templar models. Thanks and by all means tune or replace the stock carb. It comes tuned too lean.

:thanks:

Twowheeler

04-25-2024, 12:10 AM

Yeah, I just realized that it was huge, so I tried trimming it. I'm not very good at this.

Twowheeler

04-25-2024, 12:14 AM

[QUOTE=GypsyR;406249]I've meaning to buy a new plug. Does that mean a plug for the X doesn't fit the M engine?
I do not know about the X. I have an M.

Twowheeler

04-25-2024, 12:16 AM

Yes, my M has preload rings.

Fast_Freddy

04-27-2024, 12:28 AM

Yes, my M has preload rings.

Thanks. In answer to your spark plug question, all Templars share the same engine and spark plug.

Thumper

04-28-2024, 03:06 PM

I removed the link while lowering the 2022 5 speed Templar X.
You have to remove the rear brake to remove the front mounting bolt, but it isn't much work.

I did this to get dimensions to begin the quest for a compatible lowering link in aftermarket. THe dimensions are in the next post. This one is about the removal.

Feel free to search, or take these dimensions to your local Honda dealership (or anywhere!) and see if they have lowering links to measure dimensions. Or order one if you are feeling lucky.

-Place a center stand under the motor and get the rear wheel unweighted so the link isn't under stress. That's just touching the ground, so the shock isn't getting compressed or holding up the swingarm.

-The rear mounting bolt has a locking nut on the left side, and the left mount is threaded as well, so remove the nut, then unscrew the bolt.

I used a rod to tap it out after clearing the threads.

31350

-Do you see the lower chain roller? That roller is held on the extension from the front mounting bolt. It won't be removable until you remove the bolt from the right side, but loosen the nut of the threads for now.

31351

-The nut on the bolt needs to be held in place while you remove the bolt. I propped the combination wrench on a 12" 4x4 so I didn't have to hold it while I removed the bolt from the other side. It is partially obscured behind the chain in the photo:

31352

Here is the right side (brake lever removed).

31353

The bushing rides on needle bearings, as you would expect. I will post dimensions in the next post.

31354

Thumper

04-28-2024, 03:08 PM

I got the micrometer on it and took some measurements so we can begin looking for aftermarket lowering links.

31356

31355

31358

Thumper

05-29-2024, 06:21 PM

This bears repeating. My guess is that Honda CRF 250F lowering link will work. Maybe a different model. Or maybe a KTM. I can't order them and measure since they are not cheap. Maybe if free returns are OK (??!)

Anyway, until someone finds a lowering link, you can always shorten the rear shock on the Templar. 5/8" center to center (10mm bore) will give you about 1-3/4" lowering or more. Add a 1/4" to 1/2" front fork drop, and you are probably going to be happy with an inseem of 30-32". Almost flat footed, and the kickstand will still work. Maybe put the kickstand in a hole or downhill to be sure ;)

31500

We did this on the new 2024 Temp X for my son. We also dialed up about 175 lbs of additional preload (350 lbs/inch). AND reset the compression and rebound adjustment to 5 clicks off the bottom. So it sags less and feels more stiff. Nice feel. This is a ~$165 fully adjustable shock. You can leave the lock ring behind while you roll up the collar to keep track of how much additional preload you add. Buy the shock from PSM/Maxpro when they are in stock if you need one. Nice shock.

31498
31499

Mumen Rider

05-29-2024, 11:05 PM

Anyway, until someone finds a lowering link, you can always shorten the rear shock on the Templar.

Debating if I want to pick one of these up come June 1st. Both list the 08 CRF250/450. My OEM link is actually bent from shipping.

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/Sc92d9432938f4b17b100850b984d3e04J.jpg

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S530bc2befbf945829a85f806be6b38ac3.jpg

Mumen Rider

05-30-2024, 04:37 PM

Otom CRF250R front brake disc guards fit the front forks perfectly. You will need your own M6-1.0 bolts and washers to mount it.

https://i.ibb.co/Nmqvyvm/1717100734538.jpg

https://i.ibb.co/2hMRh3T/1717100734609.jpg (https://ibb.co/P9yL6L9)

Mumen Rider

05-30-2024, 09:38 PM

I ran out of cut off wheels for my dremel tool but I have these pliers that managed to get the OEM carb screws out without much fuss even with the red thread lock on the bolts. Engineer PZ-57 Japanese pliers($16 on Amazon, a great alternative if you don't have a dremel tool or don't want to spend the money for this one job). You will need M4-.70x20mm screws to replace the OEM headless bolts.

I could only fit one .5mm shim under the needle and still have the white plastic needle retainer clip into the slide piston.

https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61oZnUkkaFL._AC_SL1500_.jpg

Thumper

06-11-2024, 11:19 PM

I posted the 5/8" new lower mounting hole on the rear shock (post #59 (https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=408980&postcount=59)), which drops about 1.75" and if you drop the front forks about a half inch, you get a solid 2" lowering. I also compressed the preload by about 175 pounds (~ half inch @ 350 pounds per inch). This is a NICE way to stiffen and lower the bike moderately.

BUT, the kickstand is too long now. Aussie mentioned that the kickstand had nice thick walls, so I decided that my weak welding skills could be successfully brought to bear :hehe:

I took a ~1.25" section out, below the lower spring mounting post:
31575

I set it up pinning it vertically to a red landscaping cinderblock and ground off a section to pin the grounding clamp:
31576

A strip of masking tape was good enough to hold it for the first tack weld, then pulled the tape off and finished it off:
31577
31578

Lovely weld, eh :tup:
In my defense, most of that is slag. It was pretty good underneath the mess :tup:

I filed off the crap and gave it a flat black finish. Done. The bike leans over nicely. You can even park it with the kickstand uphill now. Plenty strong enough.
31579
This worked out great.

GypsyR

06-12-2024, 10:16 AM

I was chicken with mine. Cut 3/4" off first and then about another 3/4".

Mumen Rider

06-18-2024, 05:49 PM

FYI: the rear axle nut is 31mm.

Mumen Rider

06-18-2024, 09:09 PM

32mm actually.

No, it's 31mm. I bought a 31mm socket and it fits perfectly compared to the loose fit of a 32mm.

Nut 31.22mm
31mm socket 31.4mm
32mm socket 32.2mm (ISO/DIN standard: 32.08 - 32.48mm)

If someone uses a 32mm with an impact to loosen it they are going to deform the nut.

Thumper

06-18-2024, 10:23 PM

32mm works. A 1-1/4" socket will also work. I use a breaker bar.

Megadan

06-19-2024, 09:51 PM

No, it's 31mm. I bought a 31mm socket and it fits perfectly compared to the loose fit of a 32mm.

Nut 31.22mm
31mm socket 31.4mm
32mm socket 32.2mm (ISO/DIN standard: 32.08 - 32.48mm)

If someone uses a 32mm with an impact to loosen it they are going to deform the nut.

If the nut measures 31.22mm, it is considered to be 32mm nominally by every industrial and automotive measurement standard. Cheap hardware is notorious for being below standards, and often greatly undersized. If a 31mm fits, great, I would use that.

If a 32mm fits, also great, I would use that.

If some standard size fits better than either of them, I would use that.

My point is. Who cares? Use whatever fits the tightest or works. This is like arguing about who got more milk in their glass.

Thumper

06-19-2024, 11:24 PM

I'm glad the 31mm socket works for you. My 32 works, and I have a 1-1/4" backup that works too. It's just a couple of turns to loosen, tightens easy to, and I like using a breaker bar to make it easy. It's like 55-60 foot pounds. No need to use an impact driver. I don't need to buy a new socket.

Fast_Freddy

06-20-2024, 12:02 AM

I used an adjustable wrench because I couldn't find a suitable socket. I think I have a 11/4" socket so if I can find it easily I'll try it next time. Maybe buy the right socket some day.

GypsyR

06-20-2024, 10:02 AM

I'd appreciate it if like a half a dozen or so posts at the tail of this otherwise very helpful resource thread were deleted.
And then this one too. For the record, until a few posts back I never knew or cared what size the axle nut was. I just loosened and tightened it with whatever it was I had that fit. An adjustable wrench would work. I see it as a non-issue.

buzz

07-14-2024, 02:22 PM

you are so right GypyR. a pair of good pliers wood work.

vividpixel

08-28-2024, 12:59 PM

Update: New sensor works great and matches up with the original, but still no 1st gear.
I just bought the last one of these gear position sensors for the Templar X 250, and here's the link in case someone else wants one when they restock: ebay.com/itm/225647471555 (copy-paste to your browser's address bar)

It's sold by XPro. Once I install it, I'll edit this post to confirm that it fits, and at least didn't make the problem any worse (missing indicator for 1st gear).

FastKart1

08-29-2024, 10:18 PM

Mumen Rider

09-10-2024, 06:08 PM

https://ae01.alicdn.com/kf/S2766c56cf027452190082835d2a9e08bA.jpg

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804671542578.html

Sold by Zuumav's official Aliexpress store. I have purchased one, I believe it will bolt right up to our bikes.

Edit: Light received, it does not fit our mounts. You can however use those rubber straps to mount it but you would still need the lower bracket to mount it at four points. It is physically larger than our light and fairing by a fair bit too.

Weresquatch

09-10-2024, 06:30 PM

tknj99

10-03-2024, 06:28 PM

Does anyone know the maker listed for the base Templar? My former Titan DLX maker was Koolcnchet on the MSO, while the Templar X showed Zumaav. I’m wondering if the base Templar willl show Zumaav since it has the overhead cam Zongshen engine and is branded as a Templar instead of Titan. Thanks

Mumen Rider

10-03-2024, 07:44 PM

Zhejiang Koolcnchet Industry & Trade Co Ltd(Xmoto) is the trade company that imported your Titan DLX if that's what is listed on your MSO. All of these Xpro models(titan/templar) are Zuumav regardless of the importer. X-Pro(Zuumav) has a handful of different businesses selling the same models under different names.

tknj99

10-03-2024, 09:51 PM

Thanks for that info!

I'm also curious to see how much more powerful the Templar will feel over the old Titan being that it will have the 249cc engine vs the 229cc... maybe a little extra oomph.. that and its lighter i believe than the Templar X so that's a plus.

redhatengineer

10-07-2024, 12:46 PM

Has anyone ordered a better skid plate/bash guard for the templar x 6 speed? 4th time out managed to catch a rock directly in the left case cover and punched a nice hole in it 15 miles out on the trail. Luckily i was riding with folks and we were able to effect a trail repair to get it back to camp but I'd like to fit something on it that can protect the case a little better as the stock skid plate only covers underneath. Looking at the devol case cover for the rmz 250 ( https://www.motosport.com/devol-skid-plate?variant[DEV0009]=DEV0009-X001-Y044 ) which looks like it might bolt up but curious if anyone's confirmed fitment on anything.

GypsyR

10-07-2024, 01:28 PM

There's AT LEAST one mention of skid plates in the main (non reference guide) Templar thread. Here one is, halfway down this page - https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=30518&page=114

redhatengineer

10-07-2024, 01:49 PM

There's AT LEAST one mention of skid plates in the main (non reference guide) Templar thread. Here one is, halfway down this page - https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=30518&page=114

Hey thank you! I'm not sure how I missed that, I searched through that thread a few times haha. That particular plate they used leaves a nice gaping hole right where the rock punched a hole in my case so i probably won't get that one lol. But it gives me a good fitment reference!

Mumen Rider

10-20-2024, 10:45 PM

https://www.youtube.com/shorts/9g-RJBPMFhs

Youtube short showing idle AFR with a stock Templar X 250 that has the cat removed. The carb is untouched from factory.

Thumper

10-21-2024, 09:41 AM

MOST Templars arrive with sealed Youall carburetors jet LEAN from the factory. In fact, this is common for most crate bikes.

This "sealed carb" lean jet state isn't necessarily a problem for folks that live in Santa Fe or the high plains over 4500 feet. I live at 800 feet, and I had to rejet three Templar X bikes to enrich the pilot and main jetting, and also shimmed the needle about one millimeter. The popping on decel and the missing on throttle twist completely went away, and the spark plug read perfectly. They were definitely too lean.

Most people find that they can eliminate the lean running behavior by bumping from 40 to 42 on the pilot, and from 120 to 125 on the main jet.

As I say, most crate bikes ship lean. Your experience may vary, but

https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=383473&postcount=25

Mumen Rider

10-21-2024, 11:21 AM

Yeah, going to have to disagree completely with you there after seeing the numbers myself. This was with a factory carb(120m/40p) that still had the plug on the pilot screw at ~9' ASL. Popping on deceleration doesn't indicate a lean running condition. If it's running this rich at sea level, it's only going to run richer the higher you go.

I just did some logging with the factory carb running 122m/40p.

1'-50' ASL, 75-79 degrees F and humidity was 55-65%.

Idle AFR with one turn out on the pilot: 12.2-13.0 (towards the richer side after warming up)
WOT AFR: 12.2-13.2 (richer at the top end)

WOT runs ran in 4th gear up to 10k rpm which was ~65mph.

Hotled

10-21-2024, 03:18 PM

So no one makes extended tanks for gas?

CC-John

10-21-2024, 03:27 PM

Yeah, popping on deceleration is usually an indicator of a leaky exhaust system and fresh air being drawn in is helping the unburned fuel in the exhaust gasses to ignite in the exhaust system causing the popping. I pulled the muffler off of my Templar and drilled out the rivets holding the endcaps on and sealed the endcaps with high temp RTV silicone, then reinstalled with new pop rivets. Also sealed the slip joint where the muffler connects to the header pipe when putting the muffler back on the bike. The popping on decel has totally disappeared, and I'm still running the stock jetting with just a mild tweak to the idle mixture jet after removing the plug over it. I'm located about 55-60 feet above sea level..

CC-John

10-21-2024, 03:34 PM

So no one makes extended tanks for gas?

I got a two gallon Giant Loop Armadillo Bag to extend my range when I'm gonna be riding where gas stations are scarce. Just fill it up and lash it to the rear rack until needed, then roll it up and stuff it in a saddlebag when it's empty. It's not inexpensive, but not much difference between it and a 2 gallon RotoPax with appropriate mounting system.

https://www.giantloopmoto.com/product/armadillo-bag-liquid-power-reservoir/

MaLfUnCtIoN

11-14-2024, 12:42 PM

How is the seat attached? I tried giving it a good yank, looked for screws... Want to put a battery tender to it. Feel foolish

Thumper

11-14-2024, 01:43 PM

How is the seat attached? I tried giving it a good yank, looked for screws... Want to put a battery tender to it. Feel foolish

8mm bolts left and right tucked under the back end of the seat. They come out pretty easy, but it can be hard to push the seat down to get them back in. I ground the hole downwards (tabs on the seat) to make it easier to get the bolts back in. Good idea on the tender leads.

MaLfUnCtIoN

11-14-2024, 01:58 PM

8mm bolts left and right tucked under the back end of the seat. They come out pretty easy, but it can be hard to push the seat down to get them back in. I ground the hole downwards (tabs on the seat) to make it easier to get the bolts back in. Good idea on the tender leads.

Thanks. Also, tried putting in an ngk iridium but despite using the part number suggested (dpr8eix-9), it wouldn't fit the plug wire boot. Looks like stock uses threads.

vividpixel

11-14-2024, 02:45 PM

(dpr8eix-9), it wouldn't fit the plug wire boot.
Oh, something I can help with! Unscrew the tip from the spark plug, and you will find the threads you're looking for. ;)

Campdog

12-02-2024, 03:54 PM

Hello, New to forum. I just ordered a templar X and I live in Idaho. I live at an elevation of 2800 feet and all of the riding that I plan on doing will be at a higher elevation, most will be between 4K and 8K. Should I try to start with the stock carburetor or re-jet to the 42 and 125, or just get the Nibbi 30 or 28. On a second note, I also noticed that there isn't a forest service approved spark arrestor listed in the forum yet...any suggestions. I also wanted to thank everyone for all of the great information.

Thumper

12-02-2024, 06:19 PM

The bike comes with an appropriate carburetor for the engine/exhaust. If jetted as noted in the resource (early pages), you might be perfect for you elevation, with some minor changes. Buy jet kits NOW. The right jets are noted in the thread (early posts).

Before doing anything, run it. You should have no trouble starting it and running at ~3000 feet, but make mental notes like, "does it need FULL choke and then even more choke after I start it until it's warm. And, how does it perform in midrange after fully heated. Get it through a few heat cycles before doing anything. Then pull the carb and drill out the airscrew, check the jet sizes. Adjust accordingly.

Or buy a carb and do the same thing. I have owned an original 5 speed Templar X, a 6 speed Templar X, and my son still owns his 6 speed Templar X. We never bought a different carb. The Youall carb it comes with is a smoothbore and it takes standard jets. No real reason to replace it unless you object to shimming the needle (also in the first few posts of this thread).

Have fun!!!

Faceracer

12-09-2024, 07:44 PM

GypsyR

12-09-2024, 08:10 PM

Faceracer

12-10-2024, 01:41 PM

I soured on those little "K&N" type filters many years ago. They tend to flow less air then an oiled foam filter and let in more dirt.
I put a 30mm Nibbi on mine solely because I ran across a heckuva deal on one while shopping for a 28mm.

Looks like there is no pre filter for that filter. I think I may just return it to Amazon. Definitely don’t want to run it without one. I contacted Outwears with the dimensions and they said they don’t have one. I used their pre filters on dirt bikes and quads I had k&n filters on with good results.

Thumper

12-10-2024, 03:06 PM

When I purchased my new Templer Templar X 250 from Amazon they said everybody purchased a 30 mm Nibbi carb and this Nibbi high flow air cleaner the cone shaped one I’ve been watching some YouTube videos and doing some research and it seems like people are putting that carburetor on, but everybody’s leaving the stock air box I’m wondering why they are not removing the stock airbox and using the high flow filter. Can anybody give me some info or feedback on this? If there’s some negative things to it I’m gonna put a pre-filter over it if I put it on there, but since I bought it, I would like to install it. Thanks!

The OEM carb is a smoothbore and properly jet it works great (jets cost under $10). That OEM filter is a high flow setup with lots of filter area. More to the point, you are chasing a half horsepower with carb/intake mods on this 2 valve engine. Porting and decat are necessary to bring your yield to 1-2 horsepower.

The essential OEM carb jetting/needle shim process is covered in the first half dozen posts in the resource guide. Honestly, unless you port the head, you are working real hard for modest hp improvements. Clearly, you are up to the task, no matter WHAT you do!

Have fun!

Faceracer

12-10-2024, 06:45 PM

The OEM carb is a smoothbore and properly jet it works great (jets cost under $10). That OEM filter is a high flow setup with lots of filter area. More to the point, you are chasing a half horsepower with carb/intake mods on this 2 valve engine. Porting and decat are necessary to bring your yield to 1-2 horsepower.

The essential OEM carb jetting/needle shim process is covered in the first half dozen posts in the resource guide. Honestly, unless you port the head, you are working real hard for modest hp improvements. Clearly, you are up to the task, no matter WHAT you do!

Have fun!

Thanks I’m going to return the filter and stick with the stock one. I’m glad I found this forum to bounce ideas of ya’ll. Thanks!

blackimaje

12-18-2024, 10:56 AM

Anybody try something like this ? Might be worth a shot considering it's only 14 bucks and the wiring and dashboard unit supports it -just a thought

https://www.walmart.com/ip/Motorcycle-Scooter-Gas-Fuel-Tank-Level-Sensor-Sending-Unit-for-Yamaha-ZY125/319896067?sid=277c21eb-ac32-4e30-b0fb-b691afa4cf69

Thumper

12-31-2024, 01:20 PM

I thought I should put this in the resource. I had taken the photo a few months ago while we were assembling it, but forgot to post. I am sure you can do this on any of these bikes.

It is a simple strategy for getting the headlight leveled down a bit :wtf:

32475

This also gives you more room for wiring and access to the ignition key slot, which is ridiculous unless you do something!

blackimaje

01-05-2025, 11:25 AM

I noticed with the wiring on the back of the bike is not great especially the fuse holder .I blew my fuse when messing with the rear tailight and when I checked the fuse I noticed it was just a wire clamped with a fuse and a protective cover -piss poor design so I went with the short fast blow fuse and put this one in -much better for space and nice weatherproof connection and then I keep.
a spare package of fuses in with the airbox

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C65MFNPY?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Weresquatch

01-10-2025, 06:11 PM

That is a GREAT idea. I've never been happy with that mess.

Sixes

01-11-2025, 06:29 PM

So i was thinking about buying the new Templar Y.
I was originally going to purchase the Templar M because it was going to be used off road 99% of the time and it has more torque then the templar x and has a back up kick start, but didn't have the nice suspension. The Y seems to have everything I'm looking for, just not sure about the torque on it. Climbing hills is all about the grunt.

vividpixel

01-16-2025, 09:30 PM

On a second note, I also noticed that there isn't a forest service approved spark arrestor listed in the forum yet...any suggestions.
FischMoto Kit 30 (https://fischmoto.com/products/fisch-moto-spark-arrestor?variant=31742112497764) is exactly the spark arrestor you need for the X. I learned that from Mike Festiva on YouTube and I can confirm it fits great.

Weresquatch

01-17-2025, 02:07 PM

It's what I use too.

Amil0991

03-28-2025, 03:39 AM

Hello I have a 2024 base model xpro Templar and am looking for full plastic kits that fit along with adjustable shocks I’m also wondering if anyone has removed the stock air box when changing their carb