What is better than a CT110/ Postie Bike?

[XLsior]

So what is better than having a CT110?

[TominMO]

Two CT110s?

[XLsior]

You were close to the mark TominMO.

But I found a deal on 3 crusty postie bikes for the price of 1.

years are 1981,1984 and 2011.

2 non running 110cc dual range engines. the 84 was getting a rebuild and the previous owner just lost interest mid way.

Rolling frame 2011.

He still had his personal runner CT110 and sold of all the clunkers...

for a sucker like me to clear his storage space.

some crunchy cornflake areas but I think all frames can be saved.

I would say there's 1 original bike to be made out of the 3 and I'm partial to the 81 given it's the same vintage as myself. Rear wheel is locked up, so that's my first problem to fix.

Also need to find space under the house and somewhere safe to put the partially torn down 84 engine... Which other than a damaged head stud bolt and worn drive sprocket seems fine....the original piston and barrel seem fine...so scored a brand new cylinder and piston too...

[TominMO]

Nice score! :tup: :tup: :tup:

[XLsior]

Spent the better part of a whole day servicing the locked up rear wheel on the 81 Postie. Any way I got the wheel rolling after a good handful of what appeared to be river sand was removed from inside.

Seems the earlier year has some differences to the 84 so far as to say the rear drum plate/hub is different.

The more I spend time on the 81 the more apparent it is that its the donor bike...the frame is just too far gone with terminal rust to warrant expending time/effort into saving it. The 81 engine seems complete with less Odometer kilometers on the clock...but the kick start does not crank the engine over...just goes up and down without engaging.

The 84 on the other hand looks to be the best candidate for mostly original honda parts restoration.the fact the key works in the ignition switch,stem lock and helmet lock...is a strong affirmation. Rear drum plate appears to be a match for an XL185.

I found some scrags in the partially torn down 84 engine but it turns over really well...

Has to be a running engine out of the 2 somewhere there..

The 2011 has a lifan 125cc engine swap written all over it and will likely get some of the 81 ancillaries and the rear swing arm by the looks of things.

Also bought that CT110 seat and tank a while back on a separate occasion, so that will be put to good use now.

[Darkrider]

Nice score, Sounds like two of the bikes will be saved if i read that above post right.

[XLsior]

Nice score, Sounds like two of the bikes will be saved if i read that above post right.

All 3 could potentially be saved...

But the 81's inner mudguard seems to be the most crunchy and being an early year of production has the most quirks.

The 84 is in better condition just that the engine is partially torn down for whatever reason.
The dual range gearbox only came on the AG 'agricultural models'...so both these bikes have seen more cow manure that post boxes. Both engines have worn front sprockets and they aint that cheap to replace either...$70AUD

Ebay Lifan 125cc semiauto is $300 new here...So I can see how the last owner might have 'given up' mid rebuild.

The 2011 frame is not as rusty but it is the most beat on and has little to no running gear.
Being a model after 1999 its is also updated compared to the other 2 bikes, better front suspension being an updated component.

However I also believe that an XL185 tripple tree fits a CT110 frame (which i have a spare) So I'm think of putting the 2011 forks on the 84...

Pretty much the same scenario I had with me XL185 escapades being that it took 3 clapped out bikes to make 2 decent runners...well until I I rode the CG250 with a worst 'case' head gasket failure back home and cooked it.

[XLsior]

the High/Low gearbox requires a specific front drive sprocket Not an Achilles heel but somewhat of a sore thumb servicing and cost issue.

[TominMO]

Yeah, after draining the oil, basically you have to disassemble the whole high/low transfer case to get at it. Quite the PITA, but hardly impossible. No special tools needed. The high/low selector lever tends to freeze up over time, due to cooked oil in the vertical shaft that the lever connects to. Easy fix though--clean it out and coat the shaft with some high temp wheel bearing grease above the shaft's O-ring. Both of mine were this way; I have done one of them so far.

We never got the 110s with high/low, just the 90s. Our 110s had a normal front sprocket, like the newer CT125. Both of my front sprockets have some decent life left in 'em.

Link to my thread on The Carrot. Post #1 also contains a link to my other CT90, The Tomahto. Gonna get back into working on them this summer/fall.

https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=31919

[XLsior]

Took apart the 84 to see how the frame holds up.

The the exterior surface looks better to the 81 there are some questionable rust zones...

the rear guard underside is rough, the farm use has taken a toll.

A couple of rust through spots, But my main area of concern is the seam expansion near the battery box holder...

Tomorrow i will break down the 81 to see if the book is better than the cover...

Also I tried the xl185 triple tree in the ct110 head stock as I read somewhere it was possible...well it isn't.

[Mudflap]

Took apart the 84 to see how the frame holds up.

The the exterior surface looks better to the 81 there are some questionable rust zones...

the rear guard underside is rough, the farm use has taken a toll.

A couple of rust through spots, But my main area of concern is the seam expansion near the battery box holder...

Tomorrow i will break down the 81 to see if the book is better than the cover...

Also I tried the xl185 triple tree in the ct110 head stock as I read somewhere it was possible...well it isn't.


Anything is possible with an angle grinder and a welder! I put a XR100R front end on my 68 CT90 but had to lengthen the spindle a couple inches.

[XLsior]

yes it would take a longer spindle.

It's just the online claim of direct swap interchangeability is untrue.

[XLsior]

the 84 has a couple of blowouts but tapping the frame with a hammer it still has a ring to it...

the 81 on the other hand is a dull dud and is only good for cut out patches and everything else as spares/parts.

[XLsior]

I think I am piecing out the turn of events that lead to the previous owner to dump the bikes.

I'm not sure what was the original reason for the rebuild...but there is a new cam timing chain in the parts basket.

However during his attempt at the rebuild 1 of the head through studs snapped...heading down that rabbit hole it looks like a complete gasket kit, new cylinder and piston kit was purchased...

however the snapped stud was stuck in the case and an attempt to remove and subsequent drill out and thread tap was made...which resulted in a offset and askew...

I think then the seller went and found the 81 as an engine donor....but that engine is in pretty locked up shape...

I believe he then gave up on the engine rebuild found the 2011 with a china motor in it took that engine and opted to offload.

I am going to attempt a JB weld and re-tap of the stud mount hole.

the 81 engine will require a case split which I'm not equipped to deal with. The gear shift rod is bent and the foot lever is welded to it.

I have order some JIS screw bits and a hammer impact screwdriver. to tear down as far as possible and hopefully get a replacement stud out of it.

[XLsior]

Managed to double nut and remove the studs from the 81 donor engine.

left the JBweld to cure for a few days...

used 3 studs installed as a guide reference to drill the pilot and then the 6.5mm drill (allow for slop and wallow) for a M8x1.25tp thread tap.

It was not a machine shop perfect job by any means of the imagination...

but I managed to get a head stud installed close enough to still slip over the cylinder...

If the stud pulls out there is the next more drastic option of JB welding the stud into the case...

So hopefully the engine can get a second chance now of running another 30 years...

[XLsior]

Wanted to get the head and cylinder off the 81 CT110 stuck engine.

wanted to see the condition of the valves and if perhaps anything was in better condition than the 84 basket case parts...

Well I did manage to get the head and cylinder off...Cylinder is a definite write off...the head could be saved but the spark plug thread snapped, and the dowel pins that hold the rockers seem to be stuck to the rockers...so i can't pull them out to remove the valve springs... cam was a little crusty but could work in a pinch.

the timing chain side appear rust free...

The chain guide/idler pulley is like new so that's a part swap improvement.

looks like the same head stud is corroded worse than the 84. Seems to be a problematic stud location.

[XLsior]

Cleaned and lapped the original valves. They were in usable condition. Buying new valves cost more than I am prepared to pay for this project for now.

Invested in a cheap valve spring compressor.

Did a little porting while I had the opportunity.

Biggest problem is the spark plug doesn't seem to want to budge (I was using a 2ft breaker bar, but not applying to much force). I snapped the 81 plug in the head so id rather not repeat it...

Looks like a fairly new NGK and it does have spark...but not being able to remove it means making lean/rich carburetor adjustments will be difficult...

So the Conundrum now is do I leave it and run it as is knowing the plug could snap trying to remove it engine assembled...

Or do I try to remove it now and deal with the consequences while its on the bench?

Ive got the head upside down reassembled with penetrating fluid covering the spark plug so giving it 24hrs to maybe try a 2nd plug extraction...

[Bruces]

Warm the area around the plug with a propane torch and melt a candle it will lube the threads and allow the plug to come out .

[XLsior]

1 of the photos shows the head cooking on my butane camp stove...which will get it warm.

though I have been in need of a propane torch to add to the tool collection for some time.

Just an ordinary paraffin white wax candle right? because I also have my own beeswax...

[Bruces]

Yes ,paraffin wax would work ,the camp stove should be ok too .

[XLsior]

Just doing heat soak cycles with a heat gun and penetrating fluid 'with added ptfe' claims.

Will try to unplug the plug after 24hrs of soak time.

[XLsior]

The 81 CT110 frame sacrifice to save the 84.

Both frames have some chassis blowouts.

As mentioned before the 84 has some hope left...

Just the messy rust discovery and removal phase.

Some blow outs are in similar trouble areas...but the main 84 problem spot can be cut out and patched.

Meanwhile..the 81 head is soaking in vinegar in an attempt to free up the rocker dowels and valves...

[XLsior]

Plug released its grip...

Cross threaded...quite badly. The thread tip of the extracted plug shows it started right at the tip all the way down.

I made a thread chaser out of a Chinese 'performance' sparkplug...So you can see what I think of its performance as a thread cleaner by making 2 disc cuts either side for swarf.

In other words don't get these orange 3 tip plugs...

Always start threading in spark plugs by hand people...

There must be enough material left to have some bind as a new NGK did seat with 1 half click of the wrist...

Glad I did it now while the head was on the bench as quite a bit of chewed thread material fell out of the spark plug hole...

This original Honda bike project is more of a personal shed/garage ornament and conversation starter, which I am just saving from a lost fate.

Yes I am trying to make it run. But replacement parts and maintenance make it expensive for long term on road viability.

Anyway If the plug holds I'll run it, if it ejects then I might think about helicoils and such...

[bigdano711]

Nicely done!

[cheesy]

Some people shouldn't be allowed to touch tools.

Good on ya. I've had to make my own 'taps' when working in the field. Sometimes it's the only way when you're looking at effed up BSPP.

[XLsior]

Does anyone know the part# for the 2 small return springs used inside the CDI timing advance assembly that is housed in the head attached to the cam timing gear?

[XLsior]

Found the rusted timing advance unit in the bin from the 81 donor.

Thankfully it had the only still intact tension spring.

took measurements and order a pack of 10 stainless steel

20mm long 5mm outside diameter and 0.4mm thick wire tension springs

expected shipping from aliexpress is a month away. But finding a genuine OEM Honda replacement would cost 10x more.

Just needs to make the bike run...

Also having doubts about the JB case/thread repair holding the head and providing enough gasket clamp pressure...so I am making a decision to JBweld the head stud into the case...if i can find where i put the JB weld is the issue right now

[cheesy]

if i can find where i put the JB weld is the issue right now

This is normal. It gets worse. Like, “I just had that effing 8mm wrench in my hand.” Which is why I now pad time on repairs.

[XLsior]

Got to many spinning plates half started now can't add any more or the whole lot could crash and leave a confusing mess...

Time to to to stop the spinning and rack things up.

[XLsior]

Removing the side cover of the 81 ct110 engine.

Had to cut off the welded on shift lever...

Inside found well established surface rust...I get the feeling this bike tried to be amphibious at some point in its life.

Though crunchy it all seems to be in place...and the case looks unmolested.

(unlike the 84...foreshadowing)

I don't have a 2 jaw fly wheel puller but in an attempt to remove the nut the engine did start to turn over albeit with the sound of some popular breakfast cereal. But the fact it turns suggests hope in a case split if ever required.

[XLsior]

Putting the 84 engine back together again with the included new and old parts.

New piston and cylinder + gaskets.

Also discovered this engine case has seen JB in its past before...possible chain loose/snap and case damage.

I cleaned it back and applied a fresh layer of JB weld...

Did all the timing and cam chain tensioner stuff...not that hard, just fiddly.

applied a smear of gasket sealer on the case side...cover side clean mating surface to paper gasket.

Grey clouds rolling in...so got it all closed up before humidity gets in...

[XLsior]

The 84 Hi lo transfer lever was a fraction of its former self and also put up a fight coming out of the cover...

the 81 will be replacing it after some clean and paint, then the transfer box can be reinstalled.

Most of seals seemed ok, even though I have a new seal kit nothing indicated to me that the original installed seals might be bad...so i just cleaned them and applied silicone grease...Some original cover gaskets looked ok too with a smear of sealer sealing the deal...

Just the timing advance CDI springs on wait...

[XLsior]

The Hi/Lo transfer box re assembled.

Nice confirming actuation.

Also the 81 Cylinder head has been soaking in the vinegar bucket for about a week so it was about time to see if it would free up.

I used an M7 fine thread tap in a drill to bite into the dowel and shock spin the dowel out of the rocker arms...

Which worked...

With those out of the way i could remove the valve springs and see if the valves could move, or if they were stuck in the guides...

penetrating fluid and lots of little taps with a little hammer and both valves did come out.

Suffice to say after a clean up other than some pitting on the valve springs and a well used intake valve all parts seem usable.

[TominMO]

Nice work! Like the orange range selector switch too.

[XLsior]

Nice work! Like the orange range selector switch too.

more orange in store...

[XLsior]

With a new set of wire wheel brushes and some industrial cola (phosphoric acid) Rust converter...

Made an effort on the 84 CT110 frame...

Mostly because I still have the welder spooled with mild steel so decided to use it now before switching to stainless steel on the van exhaust.

So needed the frame prepped for patch welding.

Found a couple of 40 old year Japanese weld 'quality' in the nether regions. Must have been a Monday or Friday.

The rust converter just makes surface rust inert (turns black) but it needs descaling to penetrate.

Got the 2 main rear fender patches zapped in enough to suggest solid metal where there wasn't any before.

Very thin material elsewhere on the fender so thinking it'll be a JB weld and body filler situation.

Still have a couple of inner fender patches to go but not bad for a first sheet metal zap and tap.

[XLsior]

A little more progress on the 84 rear mud guard.

cut a couple more 81 sacrifice patches to restore integrity on the 84.

then ran out of mig wire...

[XLsior]

So got the JB weld out and with a bit of masking tape as backing filled in the pitting and sieve holes...

after a next day cure pulled off the tape for a very nice outer surface...

then put the frame next to my other resting lounge ornament Honda project.

[XLsior]

With the main bike out of action for awhile felt like a good time to work on the 84 lounge ornament..


Wanted to get the welding out of the way and zip up any left over patch works...


Then opted to weld the seams to prevent any further/potential moisture ingress and inner layer corrosion from happening...the main area this occurred is on the battery box access side..


So more solid now than factory.



So the plan is to de-seam and fill/sand the multi layer chassis into a sleek CT110.


then get prepared for the rattle can spray booth...

[XLsior]

The aliexpress springs arrived to replace the rusted out original timing advance tension springs...


Seems I was out by 0.1mm on gauge so they are a bit slack...however they are a match in every other aspect.


I honestly suspect this was the original fault that led down the previous owners rebuild escapade and the rabbit hole down the path of the snapped head stud...


Well I replaced the springs and the CDI snaps back so will see if the tension is enough...


But under the engine case the was a wet oil patch so I have an oil leak...

[XLsior]

Oil appeared to be coming from the clutch cover gasket...


So got the impact screw driver out and removed the wallowed out factory case screws....


with that out of the way the internals looked good... the original gasket remained intact on the engine case side...So I Opted not to attempt to peel it off and get access to the pull out mesh screen...


Some shmutz in the bottom of the case but nothing i'm concerned about...


Looked at the kick lever seal and it was munted....So went to look at the gasket/seal parts bin....and....no....replacement...kick lever case seal...


Hmmmm.....OK now I realize why it leaks and why there is no replacement seal...because the munted seal is the new seal...ugh.


Ok repeat process on 81 swampy engine... Inspect internals...rough. missing semi auto clutch adjustment spring...But all there it seems...


the seal is ok but firmly set...the rest of cover is rough...


So went to Ebay and purchased another ct110 seal kit...


Lesson is...always confirm and have the right part in hand before trying to replace it when possible.

[2LZ]

Starting to look around for one of these, minus engine. I ran across a Hensim 110 quad for free. The plastics are shot and the frame is rusted out from sitting outdoors, but the engine has almost no hours on it. The 110 has no reverse. It would be the perfect donor motor.

[XLsior]

Starting to look around for one of these, minus engine. I ran across a Hensim 110 quad for free. The plastics are shot and the frame is rusted out from sitting outdoors, but the engine has almost no hours on it. The 110 has no reverse. It would be the perfect donor motor.


I've been searching for roached pitbikes/pitbike engines on FB marketplace as a donor for the rolling 2011 frame I have tucked away. But I might just go with a fresh crate lifan 125cc from Ebay when funds allow it.



It'd be nice not to do a top end rebuild everytime I try to build a new bike for a change...

[XLsior]

Got the new kick lever shaft case seal but I don't want to risk more back strain with regards to my current sciatica.


So refurbishing a working original carburetor seems feasible given I have 3 in disrepair...


the middle 1 was the 81...I did not use any parts from it...


I ended up mashing the other 2 together.


There was some questionable areas in regard to the previous owners...


But out of the all the parts I do believe i have something resembling a potentially functional carburetor.


Currently now sanding layers of body filler on the chassis...but not a lot to show for it yet as it just look like a dogs breakfast right now...

[XLsior]

Still managing sciatic back pain, but on the mend.

In no position to ride bikes as the chance of hitting any bump in the road spark fear into my lower spine.


However I can move around sub normally, which means I can attempt some tasks...


so decided to fix that kick lever shaft case seal.


Got a craft knife and carefully separated the original gasket form the case...
the filter screen could be removed and inspected...some fluff and specs but nothing dire.


all surfaces were cleaned and added a light smear of sealant on both sides of the gasket.


Using an appropriate sized socket tapped the seal home and seated with a rubber mallet.


All installed and nipped up but resting on side overnight before testing if the oil will weep again...

[XLsior]

To make sure the side cover gaskets stopped weeping oil I placed the engine on fresh cardboard and left it alone...


overnight there were some wet spots but did a reposition and concluded there was some residual surface oil wicking out.


2 weeks later and the card board is still dry, dipstick looked good...which means the engine by all accounts is ready to go home into a frame.


So finishing the frame is next for the 84 CT110 AG


Also happy new year 2024 as NYE already in OZ.

[2LZ]

Glad you got that solved.
Still hunting for a donor. Some of these guys are sniffing glue. There's a clean roller, minus motor, on FBMP. 1200.00!!! He said it's a good candidate for an e-conversion. He must be a salesman.

[XLsior]

Well Australia basically rode the posties as throwaways up until a point people started realizing they were getting thin on the ground or just abused to death...So even in Australian dollar terms they are not cheap as the were some 10 years ago. I found the 3 questionable conditioned abuse victims for a decent price but they were definite 'projects'...
However getting 3 bikes for the rough price of a busted single bike seemed like an 'investment' though no return on time spent as per usual...


So its just a personal hobby/pastime when the mind drifts in that direction.


I'm guessing the CT90 situation in the USA would be worse...Though I believe the C90 Cub scene in the UK is even worse somehow...

[2LZ]

Well Australia basically rode the posties as throwaways up until a point people started realizing they were getting thin on the ground or just abused to death...So even in Australian dollar terms they are not cheap as the were some 10 years ago. I found the 3 questionable conditioned abuse victims for a decent price but they were definite 'projects'...
However getting 3 bikes for the rough price of a busted single bike seemed like an 'investment' though no return on time spent as per usual...


So its just a personal hobby/pastime when the mind drifts in that direction.


I'm guessing the CT90 situation in the USA would be worse...Though I believe the C90 Cub scene in the UK is even worse somehow...
Here in CA we're very fortunate that the only rusty bikes are the ones that sat next to backyard sheds for decades. It's generally dry. A good, clean-ish CT90 runner is around 2000.00+ USD in my market. Winter has dropped prices a little but I'm sure that's temporary.

[XLsior]

I mean for that sort of money some of the supercub/passport and ct70/Dax clones seem like better value...neither of which are available here in Australia.

[2LZ]

I mean for that sort of money some of the supercub/passport and ct70/Dax clones seem like better value...neither of which are available here in Australia.
Nor here in CA.....unless I want to sticker it for off-road only.

[XLsior]

ahh, that old chestnut...

[TominMO]

Nor here in CA.....unless I want to sticker it for off-road only.Actually there is the Amigo Rocky, but according to this video it is too expensive and had poor build quality. Mike has several videos on this bike.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2NzZ4CjPxq8

[Mudflap]

Here in CA we're very fortunate that the only rusty bikes are the ones that sat next to backyard sheds for decades. It's generally dry. A good, clean-ish CT90 runner is around 2000.00+ USD in my market. Winter has dropped prices a little but I'm sure that's temporary.
I bought my first new Trail 90 in 1970 for $275.00 (got dealer price) and have had at least one in the garage ever since. Never imagined a used one would ever sell for $2k. My 68 is still in use but with major mods including a Lifan 140cc engine. Can't beat a super light bike for getting to places where a bigger bike can't go.

[2LZ]

I bought my first new Trail 90 in 1970 for $275.00 (got dealer price) and have had at least one in the garage ever since. Never imagined a used one would ever sell for $2k. My 68 is still in use but with major mods including a Lifan 140cc engine. Can't beat a super light bike for getting to places where a bigger bike can't go.
1968.....the best year in my book and the one I'd be looking for. Link front end, first year two speed tranny and the last year of the small speedo, if I got all that correct.

I love and grew up on two strokes but it's one of the reasons I gave the Bearcat to my brother. I want something small and light, but I'm beyond the ring-ding and smoke....and again, I inherited that donor motor from Mrs. 2LZ dad that would go right in a CT frame.

I'll keep my nose to the market. It's bound to get better here in a few weeks after the holiday ebb. Every morning is like a rerun on CL and FBMP here at the moment.

[XLsior]

There is an "alternative" CT110...


the Sachs MadAss 125cc.


https://www.webbikeworld.com/sachs-madass-125-review/

[XLsior]

Red Fox Powersports has one listed on thier website but its kindof choped up looking. Might be a good start if you can find original parts to make it look right,and it is a 125cc manual.




are you referring to this?



https://www.redfoxpowersports.com/125-rtx-scooter-moped-with-manual-transmission-classic-scooter-style#


suggests "CA Approval" could be an option for those in the USA

[2LZ]

are you referring to this?
https://www.redfoxpowersports.com/125-rtx-scooter-moped-with-manual-transmission-classic-scooter-style#
suggests "CA Approval" could be an option for those in the USA
This is a prime example of what we have to go through here online. It says "CA Approved"....but they don't say which approval. You have to call them.

Is it????

"Ca Approved for Road Use" (regular, streetable plate)
"Ca Approved, Green Sticker" (Off-Road Only, all year, open to USFS Lands)
"Ca Approved, Red Sticker" (Off-Road Only, closed courses, only certain times of year)

They usually don't specify online. I could buy that as CA Approved and may only be able to ride it off road. I had to cancel a quad order years ago because it was CA Approved, Red Sticker.

[XLsior]

I buy stuff from Aliexpress so marketing grease I'm all to familiar with. The CA approval red tag was dubious just from looking at where is was positioned on the page listing.


looking at the bike its not the best example of a cub clone Ive seen... price wasn't that appealing either.



The CTs/trails are out there you just have to be ready when they pop up like a mushroom on a foggy morning.

[Mudflap]

This is a prime example of what we have to go through here online. It says "CA Approved"....but they don't say which approval. You have to call them.

Is it????

"Ca Approved for Road Use" (regular, streetable plate)
"Ca Approved, Green Sticker" (Off-Road Only, all year, open to USFS Lands)
"Ca Approved, Red Sticker" (Off-Road Only, closed courses, only certain times of year)

They usually don't specify online. I could buy that as CA Approved and may only be able to ride it off road. I had to cancel a quad order years ago because it was CA Approved, Red Sticker.
Are there any bikes above 50cc that are street legal in California without being fuel injected?

[2LZ]

Are there any bikes above 50cc that are street legal in California without being fuel injected?
Now??? Not sure. I know our TT250 was carbed and street legal. It had the little air pump on it for the cat.

For the dealers though, it's always been "Why grease Gavin's palm when we greased the EPA and can sell to 49 other states?" It's been a challenge for us over the years. Not may options until CSC showed up.

[XLsior]

Weather has been sodden for a few months now, but a bit of sunshine happened so did some more frame/chassis prep work.

[XLsior]

Still working on the 84 CT110 AG frame.


I'm not sure how the original press chassis contour lines went.


So I'm just making look good and flush. My old tub of body filler dried out so now I have a fresh pot.


I think its about the 5th pass by now...


It deserves a coat of paint pretty soon.

[XLsior]

Getting close to painting now,



However I need a fresh can of primer...


So while the sun was shining, I finished the bulk of body filler sanding and went over the whole bike with sand paper, then a spritz of rust converter...sun bake, then a rinse then another sun bake.



Still have a couple of cans of bed liner/armor, So it seemed like the right time to seal and protect the inner rear guard from any further deterioration.


Weeks weather forecast looks like showers however.

[XLsior]

1st coat of primer went on and had a few days to cure.


This showed up any hidden details that could not be seen prior.


Which meant for another filler pass and then sanding back 240grit to take down any high spots and fill some scratches.


But lets not beat around the bush and forget what the the starting material was...
So there are going to be some rough spots and scuffs...


However 2nd coat of primer and then top coat...


Then comes all the other bits that bolt onto the chassis.

[XLsior]

Full sun and no wind.


1st and 2nd coats of Rustoleum 2x gloss orange.

[XLsior]

Some of you might recall that I purchased a postie seat and tank off ebay prior to getting the 3 CT110 combo.


Well the redemption arc of that ebay purchase has arrived. I did end up using tank sealer on it way back around the same time I was working on the XL350 tank mod and had some sealer left over.


Yes I'm in a position where I have 4 tanks and 2 seats to work with...



washing, sanding, priming, sanding, washing and 2 top coats later when required.


Also did the lamp housing brackets and swing arm...


However finished top coat is all curing for now...next photos.


Think there's enough in the can for the front fender but that needs major repair work first.

[XLsior]

With the paint cured I could begin the reassembly process.


But it's nice to have another lounge ornament again.



Also as I go through the parts I might be able to stick 2 seat pans together (laminate/patch) and make something a more sturdy. I don't really want to remove the cover and foam on the primary seat but the is a major rust weak spot and welding is not really an option...


So I'm think a cut out patch and JB weld a reinforcement patch...thing.

[J4Fun]

Your project looks very nice XLsior! :tup:

[XLsior]

Your project looks very nice XLsior! :tup:




I think the magic of gloss paint is doing most of the work.



Its shaping up alright.

[XLsior]

The seat resto took a turn as I peeled back the layers.


I was just going to JB the crunchy corner, but 1 thing lead to another and the cover and foam came off.


Rust busted and fully welded seat pan overlap ensued. Also welded a couple of rusted out cover hooks.


I probably should have taken the cover off first before cutting the support piece, just another lesson in 'dont cut corners'



Then more spray bed liner to seal the deal and a coat of satin black caliper paint underneath.


Used the better rubber tank pads and the heat gun helped replacing the plastic edge protection strip


Foam and cover back on and attached to the tank...the seat pins are getting the vinegar and spray treatment.


A seat worth sitting on

[XLsior]

I was north of the main cyclone impact zone so came out unscathed. As of now just persistent rain deluge as ex-tropical cyclone Alfred dumps rain and leaves behind some major flash flood zones. 300-400mm (over 1ft) of rain in places



Just going over the wiring on the CT110 now and giving it a fresh loom tape wrap.


I have 3 lamp buckets to work with but they all have something wrong with them, However for this bike I will be using the middle of photo option.


The switches look functional just need some cleaning.



Both 80s bikes front suspension options are shot so the 2010 will have to oblige to keep the project moving without spending $.


I have cleaned and rust treated the wheels but cant paint due to the weather.


Other parts are soaking in the vinegar bucket vaporizing rust.

[XLsior]

Just a comparison showing what a week soaked in ordinary white vinegar can do for rust removal.


the bare metal will flash rust very quickly so I after a rinse and a heat gun dry-off it was painted almost immediately. Also don't use this method with any aluminum/alloys it will corrode.

[XLsior]

I removed the shocks from the 1984 and 2011.



The old shocks are ruined and would perform like brown bananas.


no sure which year but Honda updated the CT110 shocks to be more robust and the inner springs can be removed via the top of the stanchion thanks to a top nut in threaded bushing type arrangement.


Anyway the 2011 shocks are in vastly better condition other than a paint job. Will probably use paint stripper but using some 120grit to give it better penetration. The whole 2011 frame will also need paint stripping, So a trip to the hardware store at some point.


Cleaned the wheel hubs and spokes and gave them some spray rust converter then hit them with some leftover VHT high temp aluminum paint (not because i needed high temp its just what I had around) gave the rim a test spray of Dulux cream white but it had some fish eye reactions and I'm not convinced the cream color works here so might just go all the way with the aluminum VHT.



Yes there was a fair bit of original chrome but the rust pitting in some areas was to much.

[XLsior]

Using the 2011 shocks and the 1984 upper springs, I've combined and assembled what is essentially upgraded modern postie shocks as the upper springs were discontinued fitment at some point.


Don't have rubber gator boots but I think it looks cooler without them.


I took out the inner spring for a clean and drained out the zombie blood for fork oil at replaced with 100ml of 15w fork oil in each fork.


Contemplated using the best 2 of 6 bad tires but I cannot bring myself to put old rubber on a restoration project so have ordered some new budget 3.00x17 'trial tyre' ebay specials

[XLsior]

Fresh Treads.

[XLsior]

1 of the old inner tubes failed so I dug out the 2011 frame in the hope the back wheel still held pressure.


Taking off the wheel I began to notice more and more signs of abuse the 2011 had experienced.


At some point I think it had a bigger engine jammed into it and possible a larger back tire and rear brake delete bodge.


The seat mounts were torn out. The rear guard had been flared out and cut.


it had 2 non prep rattle can rebuilds and most of the paint flaked off with my pressure washer.


I think most people would just throw it out...



It is fairly solid and corrosion free though, So the 81 donor frame might save yet another...


Have the tools and technology and most importantly my time is free...


Believe I can kit bash both remaining parts into something functional.



It'll be a while away yet and not quite ready to commit to the new LIFAN 125cc semi-auto powerplant. there also the cheaper BT125cc on ebay but the specs suggest its down on power compared to the Lifan...


Anyway I'll drop some picks, though I just went to get an inner tube for the 84 CT110 AG

[XLsior]

More damage assesment