Templar M keeps stalling

[NYCDiesel]

Hey guys, I posted a while ago about how my bike started cutting out after it warmed up well now it has progressed to the point that now it dies after a few minutes of riding. The only way for me to get it restarted is to mess with the choke adjustment and for some reason that will allow it to start and run for a few minutes before it dies again and I repeat the whole process. I pulled my spark plug and I think it's running rich? I also have to adjust the valves but I don't have space right now to pull the gas tank and all that off. I attached a picture of the spark plug, I'd greatly appreciate some help bc this is quite annoying.

[Thumper]

That plug does not look sooty at all. Have you rejet? What's your elevation. If it is original, bump 40 pilot jet to 42 and shim the needle. Air screw to about a turn and a half. This should be OK to 1500 or even 2000 feet.

[J4Fun]

I think the last post on his last thread was 5-14. The thread was chock full of good advice. It seems like you’re not listening. Valves were brought up, fuel restrictions so on and so forth. I’m also still thinking fuel restriction because it will start then dies and got worse with time it seems. Agree with Thumper that spark plug doesn’t look bad at all. Maybe reread your previous thread again and pay closer attention…my thoughts

[Thumper]

Too lean on the pilot could easily explain the stalling, but I agree with J4fun that it could be a vapor lock/fuel supply thing. Not sure what I missed in the post. I did NOT try to find the history back on 5-14. Yes. There was good advice there.

And yes, the electrode and porcelain insulator look good. No soot at all. No powdery haze either!

But I still go with a fuel supply issue (or lean) if the valves are adjusted. Maybe brought up means adjusted, or just discussed (valves). But if valves are not adjusted, then yes, that could contribute and cause stalling as well.

One other possibility (related to fuel supply). Open the tank periodically to equalize while you ride and see if that solves it (bad vent?).

[ProDigit]

Your spark plug looks like it has sooth on. So you're definitely running very rich. The top is clear white looking, so it could be that you're running lean as well.
Without knowing if the bike dies at idle and runs at throttle, I'd have to assume that you're running a rich pilot jet, causing your bike to die at idle.
And the lean looking top of the spark plug, could indicate that your main jet is too lean.

To better know what's going on, play with the AF screw, and see if your bike can continue to idle, and if you added fuel or air to get that result.

So, I'd say, go down 2 sizes on the idle or pilot jet, and up 2 sizes on the main jet.

[J4Fun]

Go to Dual Sport/Enduro page 4 then look for his name or Templar M Stuttering to see his previous thread.

[Thumper]

Your spark plug looks like it has sooth on. So you're definitely running very rich. The top is clear white looking, so it could be that you're running lean as well.
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You can't be "running very rich" and ..."running lean as well". That's just plain laughable dude :crazy:

There is just NO WAY that Temp M is running rich. Read the plug. White porcelain, clean electrode.

It takes some time to develop burnt lean look on the white porcelain, but the soot builds up quickly and is obvious. You have NO SOOT on that plug. But replace that OEM plug NYCdiesel. Check the Templar Resource for info.

Here is a photo for reference, but there are lots of examples out there.
https://www.tuningmatters.com/how-tos/beginners-guides/check-spark-plug-correct-carburetor-setting/

Your plug is more like the optimal than the rich, so it COULD be running lean (as I mentioned, can take a little time to develop the "burn").

1) Make sure the valves are set
2) you probably have a fuel supply issue... could be just too lean, but maybe things I mentioned before. Fuel is getting cut off or way too leaned out due to a potential variety of possible things I mentioned. Your jetting could be SPOT ON, but fuel supply is blocked at the filter, vacuum developing somewhere. I doubt it is the float, but could be that as well.

[NYCDiesel]

I'm doing it now keep u guys updated

[J4Fun]

About time but, I think your going to find out fuel problems. I noticed that you haven’t talked about jets also, which makes me think that the carb could have water in it? I’m not sure if your carb can be drained without taking the bowl off? Just thinking out loud…

[NYCDiesel]

Nope.

Thumper my main man was right, valves all along. I justt took it for a 20 min ride with shit ziptied bc I honestly thought it was going to be the carbs too but it wasn't. Ran like a fuckin top the whole time, didn't stuttter or stop once.

Thumper I'm sorry for not taking your advice earlier. My frame of reference is my RR which I put 11K miles on in the last year to 28 total now and had my valves checked a few months ago and they were fine. Regardless,

Thumper I owe you a 6 pack or some bud or something seriously dude, after reading your post I literally just went out and did it, .002 on both sides and it starts right up with a little choke then after a minute or so its GTG, pulls hard to redline.

Also sorry for being a redundant idiot, like I said you lit a fire under my ass and I appreciate it truly, I am known to be a bit hard headed so thanks for the wake up call.

[Thumper]

Great news. :tup:

Now that you have a working vehicle, you may find minor jetting issues that you can deal with confidently! Getting the basic mechanical stuff out of the way (valves!) puts you on firm ground.

There are a few people here worth listening to, but clearly not all. We can't really stop them ;)

I appreciate the vote of confidence, and all of the other members that actually know what they are talking about providing advice. I listen to them and think. They really help me too.

[Mumen Rider]

You can't be "running very rich" and ..."running lean as well". That's just plain laughable dude :crazy:



You can be lean on the pilot and rich on the main. :crazy:

[ProDigit]

Good that you found the solution. Now use a steel brush to clean up your spark plug, and hopefully it'll look golden brown rather than black.

[ProDigit]

You can't be "running very rich" and ..."running lean as well". That's just plain .....blabla bla
.

You either blind as a mole, or have an IQ of a donkey if you can't understand what I wrote..
Hope you realized by now you can run lean and rich at the same time very easily

[NYCDiesel]

Good that you found the solution. Now use a steel brush to clean up your spark plug, and hopefully it'll look golden brown rather than black.

Will definitely do this thanks for the tip.

[Thumper]

Prodigit is joking. The dark stuff on the threads of the plug might be oil, but you read a plug at the electrode and porcelain insulator, NOT the threads. And that part of the plug looks pretty good. No reason to clean it with a wire brush! There is nothing there.

Your M is low miles. Over time the porcelain will discolor to off white.

But if it gets a chaulky residue, too lean. If it gets sooty, too rich. Yours is neither.

But I think that's a cheap Torch plug. Get a good plug in there. NGK DR8EA (7162) is a good one.

[NYCDiesel]

My man, appreciate your input as always. Yeah when I was looking at all the pictures online my electrode looked like it was in ideal condition

https://www.tuningmatters.com/wp-content/uploads/2014/07/spark-plug-lean-rich-optimal-640x360.jpg

I just ordered the NGK plug, much thanks my guy.

[ProDigit]

The thread occasionally can get discoloration on it as well. It all depends on how deep these generic plugs can screw into the block, with a piece of the threaded section entering the combustion chamber.

Either way, brushing it off gets you a newly looking plug, that'll be easier to read.
I myself just listen to the exhaust tone, and smell if a bike is running rich or lean.

Last time I pulled my plug, it was golden brown, with a slightly darker brown on the bottom than on the top .