Minor Paladin Assembly issues

[Thumper]

As usual, there are minor assembly issues.

So the kickstand is a nice cast aluminum piece with a foot that is retained with a bolt (looks like a 10mm bolt, maybe 8mm on quick glance). This means it should be possible to cut the thing shorter after lowering the bike, drill a new hole and cut threads, and reinstall the foot. We will see.

BUT, the spring is tooo long, so the kickstand is floppy. It took no effort to pull the spring over the upper position with the kickstand up, so it bounces! EDIT: I found the rubber hanger that holds it up later. It works, though not possible to connect from the seat. modifying the lower spring mount is the answer. Will post...

I will fab a shorter metal piece (z-shaped) for the bottom spring mount position on the kickstand to tension it a little. Should be enough to tighten the spring sufficiently. I greased the kickstand mounting bolt where it contacts the kickstand, threadloc on the mounting threads and locking nut behind there. That's all good.

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There were two m6-1.0 bolt mounts -misaligned brass inserts on the right, and left side rear tail assembly mounts (see them on each side of the battery retaining bracket bolt in the photo below). I will deal with that shortly, but they give you 4 ~10mm SS M6 allen bolts to mount that back tail section that seem a little short (but nice wire handling on this bike there). Edit: The airbox and battery tray sandwich the rear frame. It can be pushed into place, but I went ahead and enlarged the mounting holes. to make it easy to bolt the rear fender on...

The battery mounting bolt was misthreaded in the brass insert, and would not turn. I inadvertently broke it loose from the plastic when I tried to remove it. I cannot get the battery bracket off, so will have to take off the inner wheel well plastic and get to it from behind there. Not sure what I will replace it with-probably just a nut/bolt and washers-threadlocked. I can cut a hole in the wheel well so I can get to a nut back there to remove the battery, then just duct tape it between battery removal(s). I might find a plug instead of tape. Time to go fishing in the parts bin. This is manageable.

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[Thumper]

There was just no way to get the battery retaining bracket loose. The threaded brass insert in the plastic was turning, seized threads (M6-1.0).
Here is the offending brass insert, after removing the right left plastic, muffler, and finally, the wheel well/fender came off.
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I had to cut the head off to remove it
32170

I could not push it out, compress it out with pliers and a socket, or anything so I drilled it out. It heated up, seized on the bit and twisted, pushed through. The battery retaining bracket is free now. The starter relay is mounted on the bracket. It is nice to have the relay out of the way here just behind the EFI module under the seat. Also, it is a nice lightweight Li-ion battery. It is a Skyrich HJTX4L-FPZ-B (just under 4.5" wide, 3-3/8" tall, 2-3/4" depth).

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For now, I will just use an allen bolt from behind the battery cradle that I can easily fish through a 3/8" port in the wheel well. I will put duct tape over it. Maybe a permanent fix.

Now I can start putting it all back together. Headsup! The headpipe was wobbly loose when I pulled the muffler off. I hope the crush gasket will seal up. I think I will pull that out and measure it while it's cold and the muffler is off.

Dealing with those misaligned rear fender mounts is the next head-scratcher. The allow rear stays are rigid, so I guess the plastic under there needs to be realigned, if it can be. Otherwise, I may have to remove it and widen the slots in the rear frame stays with a dremel.

[Mumen Rider]

I went and checked mine after reading your post, thankfully the bolt came out without any issue but now I am going to make sure to use some anti seize on it.


Going to fiddle with the kickstand now, I have had the bike on a center lift as I assemble it.

[Aussie_in_MO]

Living vicariously through everyone else is driving me nuts already!
I'm planning on picking up a Paladin early next year, assuming they're still available by the time I've got the funds together.
From the pics I've seen the build quality looks pretty good, I'm seeing passable welds, decent paint, and a lot of rivnuts.
Kickstand looks to be a better design than the Templar X, to bad about the spring sizing though!

[Mumen Rider]

As usual, there are minor assembly issues.

So the kickstand is a nice cast aluminum piece with a foot that is retained with a bolt (looks like a 10mm bolt, maybe 8mm on quick glance). This means it should be possible to cut the thing shorter after lowering the bike, drill a new hole and cut threads, and reinstall the foot. We will see.

BUT, the spring is tooo long, so the kickstand is floppy. It took no effort to pull the spring over the upper position with the kickstand up, so it bounces!

I will fab a shorter metal piece (z-shaped) for the bottom spring mount position on the kickstand to tension it a little. Should be enough to tighten the spring sufficiently. I greased the kickstand mounting bolt where it contacts the kickstand, threadloc on the mounting threads and locking nut behind there. That's all good.

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Behind your rear fender there should be a rubber strap to keep the kick stand in the up position. It still doesn't solve the spring issue, it is too long. Looking at other S8 models they seem to use a shorter spring and or location the upper spring mount on the inside of the frame instead of the outside like ours.

Looks like we have gotten the wrong spring for some reason.
https://www.powersportsmax.com/images/DirtBikes/DB-K031/41-l.jpg

[Thumper]

I noticed that loop while taking the tail apart, but it is not long enough on mine. Maybe you can get it there, but stretching it that much, the rubber will crack up soon. A much shorter metal lower spring connector, Z-shaped to clear the upper stop post (allen bolt and bushing in the parts package) might do it. Those springs seem to get hard to pull quick as you pull them out and the OEM connector is pretty long.

[zero_dgz]

Looks like it's just a plain old extension spring. It hasn't even got any proprietary loops or bends in the ends. Any competent hardware store should be able to fix you up with a slightly shorter one if that's the way you want to go.


It looks like getting the spring on and off should be significantly easier than e.g. on my Orion.

[Mumen Rider]

Changing the spark plug is a huge pain in the ass.

[tknj99]

I'm sure valve check/adjustment wont be as fun either.. looks the same like my Beta

[Mumen Rider]

You have to pull the cams to do that but it really is a simple process considering this engine(klx) is like 30 years old or more.

[zero_dgz]

So wait, is this mechanically actually a KLX clone? That means it must have shim-and-bucket valves and at the very least once you get it dialed in you won't have to touch the adjustment for quite a while... Theoretically. IIRC the spec (for the genuine article, I should say) is supposed to be every 7500 miles which is not much worse than my KLR.

[Mumen Rider]

Yes, mechanically it is a KLX clone.

https://i.ibb.co/5Kh5ggS/ecomnp.jpg (https://ibb.co/y4F8ccZ)

[zero_dgz]

Okay, that's rad as hell. I may really have to pick one of these up now.

[Mikd]

So very curious how these will compare with the Templar X model. Obviously an upgrade in power but how is the throttle response, where in the rpm range is the power etc.

[Mumen Rider]

@Thumper (https://www.chinariders.net/member.php?u=37945)

Did you change your OEM oil filter? I just changed mine out for an HF112(aftermarket KLX300) filter. The OEM oil filter's bypass diameter is larger than the spring pressing on the rear of the filter which causes the bypass to be opened all the time. The HF112 is exactly like the OEM Kawasaki Element oil filter which doesn't do that.

[Thumper]

No oil filter change. For now, I am still assembling. The LEFT wing went on great.
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But ran into a clear manufacturing defect in the right wing. Everything fits OK from the two cuffs aft, two bolts to the tank, and the bolt hanger that holds the wing to the tank. Awesome.
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Then you look at the two bolts that secure it to the right radiator once installed. Mine has a full inch GAP on the lower mount. Not catastrophic, though kind of good for a chuckle. I just need two longer bolts and two bushings. The upper is not quite as bad, but same thing. You gotta wonder how these things went un-noticed. I haven't tried to FLEX the wing to install. Not going to. This gap is way too big for that.
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Almost there.

EDIT: Mumen Rider Offered a solution... Loosen the tanks and reposition. Also, the radiator mounts can flex forward and back, which helps line these up. This worked for me.

[bigdano711]

Fab up a spacer out of PVC or similar. Can't wait to hear your ride reports!

[Mumen Rider]

If you are having trouble with the rear fender alignment for the two top bolts just get the two bolts in without the fender on and then let it sit for a day or two in the sun. Once I did that it made getting the rear fender on simple and hassle free.


https://i.ibb.co/CzZgKMt/1729980593722.jpg (https://imgbb.com/)
https://i.ibb.co/L80ngyf/1729980593646.jpg (https://ibb.co/hygDdNv)


An issue I am running into now is the threads on the rear shock seem to be catching the adjusters not letting me unscrew them in order to set the correct sag. I will probably end up removing the rear shock to get a better look and see what's going on, hard to tell with it in the frame.

EDIT: The rear shock threads are completely fine, the problem is the rear shock reservoir does not clear the adjusters. How did they not realize that at the factory is beyond me.

[Mumen Rider]

Then you look at the two bolts that secure it to the right radiator once installed. Mine has a full inch GAP on the lower mount. Not catastrophic, though kind of good for a chuckle. I just need two longer bolts and two bushings. The upper is not quite as bad, but same thing. You gotta wonder how these things went un-noticed. I haven't tried to FLEX the wing to install. Not going to. This gap is way too big for that.
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Almost there.


The radiator mount will bend to be at the correct angle to mount panel. The issue I had was that the metal inserts were bigger than the diameter of the hole in the panel to mount it so I had to drill them out.



https://i.ibb.co/fkJN7Sq/1730016390200.jpg (https://ibb.co/x1ZgQsX)
https://i.ibb.co/HqncJtV/1730016390280.jpg (https://ibb.co/pdJHmfx)

[Thumper]

I also mentioned in a previous post that the head pipe was loose at the exhaust port. I discovered this when I removed the tailpipe section.

In fact, there was obvious evidence that they ran it this way at the factory. See the black blow-by? Also, this is NOT a crush gasket. It is a solid copper washer. So it MUST be flush, straight and tensioned in place well. So the tailpipe has to fit and NOT flex the headpipe!

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Then I discovered why they couldn't seal up the header.

The distance to the midmount by the footpeg, and especially the two on the rear frame are too far forward, by a lot. In other words, the union by the midpipe mount is too long on both sides (needed to be shortened).

I cut ~1/4" from BOTH ends (the headpipe and the tail pipe section). I use Dremel EZ-lock metal cutting wheels for this, They make clean cutting easy. I filed both ends with a standard flat file to deburr and bevel the headpipe side, used a sanding wheel on the tailpipe side to deburr and smooth it out. This was barely enough. More than 1/4" would have been better, but I did not want to compromse the exhaust seal at that union.

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Even after this mod, the midpipe mount is lower than the preferred location of the headpipe when properly tensioned (exhaust nuts that hold it on the head). I STILL had to flex the pipe downwards to install the midpipe bolt. NOT good. I can expand the slot on the frame mounted midpipe bolt hole upwards to reduce the tension on the header nuts, and it should seal better, easier. Something to do next time I take it off :tup:

[tknj99]

It's surprising this amount of factory mis-alignments and issues are being shipped out. compared to the Templar series which has little to no custom fabricating required. Hopefully someone at PSM/Xpro reads these threads and relays back to to Zumaav to cure future deliveries

[Thumper]

It's surprising this amount of factory mis-alignments and issues are being shipped out. compared to the Templar series which has little to no custom fabricating required. Hopefully someone at PSM/Xpro reads these threads and relays back to to Zumaav to cure future deliveries

My header and tailpipe were misaligned on the Templar as well. I was never satisfied with the seal at the header, went through a few crush gaskets fooling with it. It had to be flexed to mount the midpipe bolt. There were plenty of other issures, like the ridiculous headlight mounts way too close to the instrument cluster, and the generic wiring harness that doesn't fit and could not be properly sealed up in the black plastic hoods.

I am happy to report, however, that the black plastic hoods on the Paladin are excellent. All of the connectors fit way inside and there is plenty of room between the headlight and headset for those wires.

Also, the rear axel slot is far better machined and has much more easily readable position markers. Much better. This swingarm is also longer and seems better casting. I won't know until I ride it, but these minor fit/finish issues on the exhaust and cowling wings are not a big deal to me. I saved thousands on this purchase. What I am mostly concerned about are the engine and drive train. Peripherals are inexpensive by comparison!

One other thing- The front braided SS brake line is NOT long enough to port through the gap for it in the headlight housing. I haven't quite figured out how to route the thing yet. I think I need to get the clutch cable and the bundled left control wires on the "other" side of the brake line. I want it to move freely so it doesn't chafe anything over time.

[bigdano711]

It's surprising this amount of factory mis-alignments and issues are being shipped out. compared to the Templar series which has little to no custom fabricating required. Hopefully someone at PSM/Xpro reads these threads and relays back to to Zumaav to cure future deliveries
You betcher sweet pickled ass they do! They would be pretty stupid NOT to. I feel like guys who shell out the money and get these gen 1 versions first, then discover a bunch of issues like this, THEN post on a web-site with pictures and excellent details, should get PAID for it. Valuable information given for free. God bless America.

[LowBrewTow]

I also had all of the exact same defects you mentioned (screw holes for tail under seat, right panel not fitting at all). I haven’t checked the exhaust yet but will do that today. That’s the risk we took when we decided to be the first ones to buy a brand new untested product from overseas.

[Thumper]

I also had all of the exact same defects you mentioned (screw holes for tail under seat, right panel not fitting at all). I haven’t checked the exhaust yet but will do that today. That’s the risk we took when we decided to be the first ones to buy a brand new untested product from overseas.

Actually, I think that the fact that these bikes all have the same issues is a good sign of consistency in the manufacturing process. Not perfect, but I didn't pay nearly enough for perfect!

Here is the rear frame out for the grinding.

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I slightly enlarged and centered the tail section mounting holes. This worked out well. That rear frame is hard alloy material. It totally destroyed a new grinding burr from a kit I got for head porting. That surprised me. This was not much grinding!

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[Mumen Rider]

Yes, As I mentioned, the left side wing on mine went together well.

I see you have EXACTLY the same issue I had on the right side. Not only is the plastic too far forward (close to an inch on the bottom), but also offset upwards, and they do NOT line up. bigdano suggested a section of PVC pipe, but I could not find any small diameter.



Both sides of mine went together without the need for spacers. If you keep the top two screws on the tank loose, then grab the radiator firmly while manipulating the panel you can get it to line up.



https://i.ibb.co/X34Tnnb/1730066079978.jpg (https://ibb.co/LJPfTT8)


I also had all of the exact same defects you mentioned (screw holes for tail under seat, right panel not fitting at all). I haven’t checked the exhaust yet but will do that today. That’s the risk we took when we decided to be the first ones to buy a brand new untested product from overseas.


It's not a brand new model, it's been out since early 2024 in other markets with the Loncin engine. The other S8-XXX type bikes have been out since 2022. The 2024 Kayo K6-R 250 is using the same frame but has different suspension. The '22+ GPX FSE 300R is another one


Did anyone else have miles on their gauge already? Mine has two miles on it, I haven't even ridden it.

[LowBrewTow]

I’m not mechanically inclined enough to strip my bike down to its frame just yet but I did know that I wasn’t a fan of the decals the bike came with. They were immediately peeling after just a couple rides around the neighborhood. So I did this

[Mumen Rider]

A heat gun would help get those edges to stay down. You can replace the graphics with certain 2017-2019 KTM models, the side panel that mounts to the tank will need trimming.

[Thumper]

Both sides of mine went together without the need for spacers. If you keep the top two screws on the tank loose, then grab the radiator firmly while manipulating the panel you can get it to line up.

https://i.ibb.co/X34Tnnb/1730066079978.jpg (https://ibb.co/LJPfTT8)



Oh. It certainly looks better. Does the mid section of the right side panel deform when you cinch down the tank? I was able to force the thing into place but not without severe force and those two forward mounting holes in the plastic might not hold up. How did the two mounts on the top of the tank line up. Did you pin those before doing the loose tank maneuver?

[LowBrewTow]

I was under the impression that it was a KTM350 EXC-F clone (2020-2023)

[Mumen Rider]

Oh. It certainly looks better. Does the mid section of the right side panel deform when you cinch down the tank? I was able to force the thing into place but not without severe force and those two forward mounting holes in the plastic might not hold up. How did the two mounts on the top of the tank line up. Did you pin those before doing the loose tank maneuver?


No panel deformation that I can tell. The first thing I got into place was the side panel stay that has to slot in, then the top two tank mounting bolts were screwed in but not tight, finally I manipulated(with my hand, not much force) the radiator and panels until they lined up. The final bolts to be tightened where the two on top of the tank once I got the radiator panels secured.


https://i.ibb.co/FV2PzC4/1730073254607.jpg (https://ibb.co/DphqQTf)
https://i.ibb.co/JsS7s9K/1730073254692.jpg (https://ibb.co/P6Vh6dN)
https://i.ibb.co/n3rfcGT/1730073254741.jpg (https://ibb.co/TKcR8fZ)


I was under the impression that it was a KTM350 EXC-F clone (2020-2023)


I think you might be correct. The OEM panels for that model year resemble ours more so.

Kews K23 panels would also fit.

[Thumper]

It started right up. The exhaust is sealed and quiet at the header. That's a relief. 10 minute ride, gentle to modest throttle, kept it under 6000rpm. I never got it over 35mph. Just heating it up for oil change and first impressions.

0 km on the odometer when I turned it on. I will switch to mph/miles.

It is a very smooth engine and transmission. I dropped the oil as soon as I parked it. Looks like conventional yellow/green oil.

Magnetic oil drain plug. :tup:

First impressions are
-This is a larger bike than Templar. Longer wheelbase, feels bigger
-the engine is free revving and torque comes in early, even at 1/4 throttle

Notes:
The copper exhaust gasket is 48mm O.D. and the headpipe diameter is ~41-42mm O.D. (Templar headpipe is 32mm O.D.). Therefore...

Cross sectional area difference on the exhaust system is 1385 square mm (Paladin), and 804 square mm (Templar).

Also, When I had the header off, I could see the dual exhaust valve paths-lots of room for exhaust flow. The muffler has a removable baffle too (perfect straight through path for a spark arrestor install).

-first gear is definitely low enough for off road fun
-the frame is taught, definitely tighter than the Templar, esp the rear end
-the swingarm has no perceptible play, also very taught
-the rear spring is dialed up pretty tight, probably too much for me. Maybe this is why it feels stiffer. Actually, I might get used to this :tup:

The tach is showing 2000rpm, but I think it's less. Maybe 1900. It stalled once at a stop sign. Started right up again, and it settled into a smooth idle when I got back.

[bigdano711]

1900 rpm is a little high, no? I'm guessing you mentioned it before, but are you a beeffalo like some of us or a smaller, lighter guy? That's how I change my oil, too. I get the tools ready and when I hop off, dump that hot oil.

[Thumper]

I am wrong...Each block on the tach represents 500rpm. Not exactly a fine indicator! I am just looking at the tachometer. Should connect a digital rpm tool. Forum member readout mentioned ~the same (2000rpm). Could be more like 1600-1700rpm. It doesn't sound high.

I am North of 190lbs, no ballerina. But the real problem is age, knees, etc. I will never push the Palatin anywhere close to it's limits :lol:

[Mumen Rider]

I experienced a random shut off while idling it in my garage, no idea why. The bike wasn't hot and the radiator fan wasn't on, it had been running for 3-4 minutes prior.



My rear tire was inflated to 42 psi, yikes.


The muffler leaks water out of the seams that connect the two end cans, not a real problem but it is annoying.



Bleeding my front brake improved the feel, probably had some air in the line from the factory. The rear brake was good but I changed the fluid anyway. It is a KTM style rear master cylinder but the top caps are different so you can't change it out for a different color. The rear brake and support bracket are a clone of the KTM parts, you can probably swap them for the factory KTM brembo brakes.

[Thumper]

Short night ride to check the headlight strength. It seems brighter than I expected, but it is aimed low and is cut off by the front fender. I will look for a height adjustment screw tomorrow when I can see in there.

Oh, there is a superfluous zip tip anchor in front of the radiator cap in the headset housing. Doesn't seem to have a purpose but I can't get it out without cutting it off.

[Mumen Rider]

You might find the horn in the way of the adjuster to aim it up and down, I ended up relocating the horn behind the headlight with zip ties to give me easier access for aiming.


I ordered an OEM Kawasaki exhaust gasket. I think I will end up using that instead of the copper washer. I may also seal the mid-pipe slip joint with some exhaust RTV and reassemble the muffler so it doesn't leak at the seams.

[TominMO]

Wow, reading all this, it looks like they rushed this thing out of the factory. Not just a simple assembly job. I wonder how the X-Pro assemblers would have handled all this if a customer paid for pre-assembly?

[Mumen Rider]

It wasn't rushed, the platform is a couple of years old now. This is just how inexpensive Chinese dirt bikes are. It IS just a simple assembly job, the majority of people ARE NOT going to go to the length that some of us on this forum go through when assembling to get everything where we think it should be. You are paying a fraction of the price to have just as much fun as the $12k+ dirt bike at the cost of a lower fit and finish which will cause you a longer assembly time if you care about that. I could have slapped this bike together in two hours out of the crate but I like to know for sure things were done up to my standard before throwing a leg over and taking off down the road.

[Thumper]

Both sides of mine went together without the need for spacers. If you keep the top two screws on the tank loose, then grab the radiator firmly while manipulating the panel you can get it to line up.

https://i.ibb.co/X34Tnnb/1730066079978.jpg (https://ibb.co/LJPfTT8)



Thanks!
I got my cowling wings straight and assembled without my oak block and nylon post...
I should have applied the standard old rule, loosen everything, align things and then begin to tighten nuts and bolts. Yes, it works.

There is still some tension on the mounts, but this actually provides stiffness.

Also-I could have realigned the battery tray for the tail section upper mounts to line up better, but the snorkel fits SO easily on the intake throttle body, I decided to let it stay there and just grind the rear frame where the bolts go through instead. It was actually easier.

The extra length on the exhaust system was easy to fix once I figured out it was simply too long. Now it fits and I can seal up the header on the exhaust port.

If you have not found at least one cross threaded bolt on your Chinese bike, you are unusually lucky. But easy to fix anyway.

These ARE minor assembly issues for an amazing 34hp water cooled enduro compete with street legal lights and an excellent frame/swingarm with fully adjustable heady duty (but lightweight) suspension with EFI, all for under $3000, delivered. I never thought THIS would happen!

[Thumper]

I removed the lower kickstand mounting "plate" and put it in a vice so I could drill another hole close to the mounting bolt. Then I used a broad punch and hammer to bend it so the spring is held off (to avoid the "kickstand up stop" when moving). Then I cut off the excess and ground it to round. Reinstalled with loctite.

NOW it took some effort to pull the spring onto the upper position even with the kickstand up. PERFECT. Now it is NOT moving while riding stowed away. Holds it up.

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[Mumen Rider]

If you have not found at least one cross threaded bolt on your Chinese bike, you are unusually lucky. But easy to fix anyway.



The lower bolt for the gauge bracket was torqued so tight it ripped some threads out on mine. I don't think I would ever want to pay extra for an assembled xpro, workers probably over torque and or strip bolts. Watching the assembly video is bad enough.

[Thumper]

Like most assemblers, they use cordless drivers on everything. They do not bother to hand start/thread. So some get cross threaded from the start on perfectly good threads. Shame they can't see this is a problem.

My lower gauge bracket mounting bolt was mis threaded as well (without the bracket, the bolt was there as a place holder!). I managed to rescue those threads that go in the upper triple clamp by gently removing it. Replaced with a good bolt and it is OK.

[onthefly]

Have you guys had any further stalling issues at idle? Or figured out what caused that?

[XLsior]

perhaps due to it being a Ruski Gopnik market machine it's built to vodka goggle standards...

[Thumper]

Have you guys had any further stalling issues at idle? Or figured out what caused that?

No issue. It idles. It settled into a steady idle when I got back from the first ride.

Stalling can happen with EFI under no load once in a while, particularly when you drop the throttle abruptly. Mine stalled once at a stop sign in the first mile of operation. It has not stalled since.

Like most EFI bikes, it doesn't start instantly. All of my carbed bikes started instantly. This bike turns over maybe two revolutions before popping to life. I have started it ~5 times now and this is the standard behavior.

2000 rpm showing is based on the thick blocks that populate the rpm gauge. It is not a needle. Each block represents 500 rpm. 4 blocks are showing at idle, so it is between 1501 and 2000 rpm. My guess of 1900 is wrong (it is "four blocks"). The idle sounds like 1600rpm, maybe 1500, and it is remarkably constant. Here is a video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mdapcewKryI


No need to pull the brake to start! And you can see the shortened kickstand spring lower mount fixed the loose kickstand.

[Mumen Rider]

Have you guys had any further stalling issues at idle? Or figured out what caused that?


No, it has only happened once to me and it might have been the ECU learning or a hiccup going from open loop to closed loop.




Like most EFI bikes, it doesn't start instantly. All of my carbed bikes started instantly. This bike turns over maybe two revolutions before popping to life. I have started it ~5 times now and this is the standard behavior.


I have the opposite happening, the Paladin fires right up and my carbed bikes turn over for a bit until they catch.

[Thumper]

That video is typical so far on the Paladin. A few revolutions, then it starts. Same experience with my neighbor's KPX. Has to crank a couple of revolutions.

My son's Templar (and my previous carbed bikes) popped to life quicker. Nearly instantly. Gotta tease the choke with constant slight throttle, but QUICK!

[onthefly]

Right on! The bike sounds good btw!

[Thumper]

I have searched but haven't been able to find stickers with the Zuumav logo. I'd like various sizes. Zuumav lets their distributors put their logo on them, but it is a Zuumav! Zongshen and Loncin do this too.

[buzz]

Ya im waiting till they get the bugs out them,just like a car you dont want the 1st of a new model.

[onthefly]

It lives! Have to finish a few things tomorrow, but assembly was pretty straightforward. The only frustration came with some of the plastics on the back. One misaligned/ partially blocked bolt hole under the seat. Light work for dremel.


Also, I ended up getting green instead of black
https://youtube.com/shorts/hUMkqAEUmac?si=KrtrET8u2LBThMff

[Mumen Rider]

I also mentioned in a previous post that the head pipe was loose at the exhaust port. I discovered this when I removed the tailpipe section.

In fact, there was obvious evidence that they ran it this way at the factory. See the black blow-by? Also, this is NOT a crush gasket. It is a solid copper washer. So it MUST be flush, straight and tensioned in place well. So the tailpipe has to fit and NOT flex the headpipe!

32193

Then I discovered why they couldn't seal up the header.

The distance to the midmount by the footpeg, and especially the two on the rear frame are too far forward, by a lot. In other words, the union by the midpipe mount is too long on both sides (needed to be shortened).

I cut ~1/4" from BOTH ends (the headpipe and the tail pipe section). I use Dremel EZ-lock metal cutting wheels for this, They make clean cutting easy. I filed both ends with a standard flat file to deburr and bevel the headpipe side, used a sanding wheel on the tailpipe side to deburr and smooth it out. This was barely enough. More than 1/4" would have been better, but I did not want to compromse the exhaust seal at that union.

32194


Even after this mod, the midpipe mount is lower than the preferred location of the headpipe when properly tensioned (exhaust nuts that hold it on the head). I STILL had to flex the pipe downwards to install the midpipe bolt. NOT good. I can expand the slot on the frame mounted midpipe bolt hole upwards to reduce the tension on the header nuts, and it should seal better, easier. Something to do next time I take it off :tup:


I just took my exhaust off and checked, mine was leaking at the header and at the mid pipe also. I used a Kawasaki 11061-0027 exhaust gasket for the KLX300 to seal up the header. 11060-1203 is the "correct" part number but they'll both work just fine, use a dab of RTV to keep it in place while fitting the header back on. I believe the old part number is a wider gasket than the newer one.



I did not have to cut the mid-pipe to get it to fit back on properly. The first thing to go on was the header, tightened the bolts hand tight so it couldn't move and then fitted the muffler and mid-pipe. Unbolting the torx subframe bolt and pushing up on the subframe was enough to get the mid-pipe bolt to line up.



Since the fuel pump doesn't work I can't say for sure if it's leak free now but with my hand around the header and turning it over I didn't feel any air leaks. The mid-pipe got it's own clamp and RTV, the pipe is out of round slightly.



https://i.ibb.co/SBWZt3M/1731132194890.jpg (https://ibb.co/L1bsxZc)
https://i.ibb.co/VgB7KXy/1731132194813.jpg (https://ibb.co/fk0hcmR)

[Thumper]

The engine doesn't stall anymore at all. It also settles into a very smooth idle even before it's up to operating temp.

I can't hear any exhaust leak at the head either. The bike ran flawless on a ride through a local trail/single track, some double track and a few muddy washes. It tracks well through soft mud and slips predictably on muddy sections with ruts. Very stable. And it didn't feel heavy! Plenty powerful right off idle. NICE torque.

This is an excellent bike.

[Thumper]

Under 50 miles, and took the Paladin to mail a couple of letters.

It began exibiting delay of power on during the ride. Then stalling if I didn't keep the rpm up and tease throttle.

Mumen is having fuel pump issues. I think this might be related...

I thought maybe low fuel... made it to a P66 and filled with 93 octane (took 1.6 gallons).

Started fine, but same thing... weird stall fail if I did not tease/twist the throttle. And delay in response to throttle.

Made it hot home at higher rpm teasing throttle. After I got home...Starts and maintains idle but then fails. Is this a low fuel pressure thing (fuel pump)?

EDIT: looks like too much fuel at idle, sooty plug and sooty oxygen sensor

I will make a video tomorrow.

[Mumen Rider]

Made it hot home at higher rpm teasing throttle. After I got home...Starts and maintains idle but then fails.


That's what mine was doing before it died completely.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BJ9S2MQ4


This fuel relay will work as a replacement but I doubt you have a bad relay.

[onthefly]

Well crap guys. Hopefully this isn't going to be the tale of the paladin. I went out and rode 30 miles today. I noticed it would have a momentary delay of power every once in a while, when climbing in a lower gear. I wasn't too concerned about it until seeing your post Thumper. I'll keep you guys in the loop on mine.

Mumen, any word on when your replacement pump is going to arrive?

[Mumen Rider]

No update or ETA but I can see a pending order created by PSM for the fuel pump. I think the next thing I see will be a shipping notification from them. I will be sure to document the fuel pump replacement process.

[Thumper]

At least the fuel pump power connection is easy to disconnect and test. If this does turn out to be a bad batch of fuel pumps, I can think of worse EFI problems!

[Thumper]

I guess the 4 valve head pushes lots of heat and more unburnt hydrocarbons to the cat. So I hear it is a calf burner. I am concerned about the orange coolant tubing right behind that heat. :wtf:

I felt that heat on a couple of rides, so went ahead with a wrap. I cut the roll a little too short (21 feet). An extra foot would have got it to the muffler union. But this will help.

32269

[Aussie_in_MO]

Those coolant lines look to be high temp silicone so should be ok. Depends on the quality obviously. I've used similar line to patch up EGR hard lines a few times in the past without any issues and that was in direct contact with exhaust gas.

[Thumper]

There were a number of assembly issues like the lower kickstand spring needed to be shortened, rear frame mounting holes for the tail needed a little grinding to line up, and the left and right cowling need to be assembled loose on the tank and radiators flexed forward to mount the two cowlings. I did grind the mid pipe mounting hole so the head pipe aligns well and it fits perfectly at the exhaust port now-sealed up.

The injector was apparently sticking open which caused it to stall and run way too rich. I removed it and cleaned it with carb cleaner while activating the injector with 12V. Now it starts, runs, idles nicely.

All in all, this assembly went OK. I do expect alignment issues and everything was solvable. The bike runs fantastic now.

This is so much more motorcycle than previous Chinese bikes I've owned. It's really impressive! It is smooth, very powerful, revs freely, shifts effortlessly and crisp. It easily gets up to 70mph and feels stable up at highway speeds.

The performance level is exceptional.

[bigdano711]

So, fuel pump ok? No need for new one?

[buzz]

Wow there seems to be a lot of problems with this new bike,what a shame. Looks so good,but I would be so bummed out to buy a new bike and have it quit and no parts for it local. Thinking KPX will be my next new bike for me,they seem proven to be the better china bike.

[Thumper]

Wow there seems to be a lot of problems with this new bike,what a shame. Looks so good,but I would be so bummed out to buy a new bike and have it quit and no parts for it local. Thinking KPX will be my next new bike for me,they seem proven to be the better china bike.

These are mostly minor fit and finish problems. That's what we are here for!
The injector seems worked in now. I have ridden the KPX. It's OK, but the Paladin is much better. The frame and suspension is better, rear shock is much better, the engine is much better. Even the swingarm is better.

If I were given the opportunity to do this over, I would definitely still choose the Paladin. It is way more motorcycle.

The engine is amazing, and it performs great off road too. Go ahead and get a KPX. I prefer this engine and the higher level of performance. And I have ridden both bikes.

[Thumper]

Warranty update. I contacted PSM and cancelled the fuel pump warranty replacement, explained the sticky fuel injector I discovered. PSM is sending me a fuel injector just in case it fails again. I took a couple of lengthy rides and it is running great.

I'd like to check stuff like resistance and voltages now that it seems settled in. I'd like to know what the Throttle Position Sensor is sending, for instance. Also maybe tinker with a resistor on the temperature sensor to fatten up the mix a bit. I wonder about compatible throttle body replacements, TPS, O2, temperature sensors, and the EFI controller, which also controls the ignition curve! The fact is that most crate bikes have no dealer support whatsoever, certainly not after any waranty period. In fact, even those that got a good warranty usually have no one to take the bike to for service. Problems are dealt with by phone or email. Having my own troubleshooting skills is the best way to keep thes bikes running.

I am more comfortable with EFI now, but I want to learn more. I will eventually need to be able to troubleshoot problems like the fuel injector with more confidence.

It would be nice to find an after market EFI controller or maybe see if the map can be flashed. I think there is untapped potential for stronger midrange and higher rpm performance that might be useful once in a while on the trail.

But right out of the crate, this engine revs more freely and has noticably better acceleration and torque compared to the ZS172FMM. :tup:

I am sure the well ventilated four valve head and wider exhaust port/header are responsible for most of it. There is also an centrifugal advance on the exhaust cam, and the ignition curve probably advances as well.

[Thumper]

I took another ride. This time off road. Want an exceptionally powerful, really well built enduro with surprisingly better frame and suspension? My advice is do it. The Paladin delivers. Yes, you WILL have to work through minor assembly issues. For the price, you will be amazed at what you are starting with. Too much for many novice riders, I am sure. Get a dual sport if you are a new rider.

I will need to dial back the preload just a little, and maybe back off the compression and rebound dampening some more :wtf:

A more youthful rider ;) can really take advantage of the stiffness of this frame/suspension. Oh yeah...Most of the experienced geezers lookin' for deals like me won't come close to pushing this bike to it's limits. Just don't forget, you are talking about a ~$3000 investment in unadulterated FUN!

:clap:

[tknj99]

I plan to sell a couple of my other bikes to consolidate a bit.. and may revisit the Paladin in the near future.. hopefully the fueling issues are addressed from the factory by then, i can deal with fit/finish but rather not have to mess with injectors, fuel pump replacements and the time to wait on parts for that stuff. It'd be nice if these had a carb option during purchase as an alternate model... simple, easy, cheap and less to worry about when things go south

[mark hall]

Dang.. Love my KPX250, but geeze this Pallidin is over the top. If the quality is on par with Lifan, you can't beat the Pallidin. https://www.powersportsmax.com/product_info.php/cPath/33_819/products_id/26793

Kawasaki lowered their KLX300 prices this year.. they see China is coming HARD.

[mark hall]

1. How many spokes are the front and rear wheels? Wonder if my 17" SuperMoto hoops would fit a Big Block.
2. How much does a Palladin 300 weigh? If less than 350, will fit my Minivan motorcycle hitch carrier.
3. If a KPX250 is 20HP how much more you think is the 300? Mo Betta, but my 250 is all set up, modded, dropped 3" and perfect.
4. Some said the Palladin quality is better than the KPX? Agree? If so, WOW.

[TempX]

1. No clue
2. 258 lbs
3. Claimed 33.5hp and 20 lb-ft of torque
4. No clue. Don't have one yet but I want one.

[OldGuy]

Yet another excellent thread! Thanks guys, I look forward to getting mine and possibly contributing to the knowledge base. I was really thinking of trying an electric bike (the Talaria Dragon if it ever makes it here) but the ability to license this (hopefully it won't be an issue here in Alabama) really adds to the value.

[mark hall]

Just got mine.. unpacking.. 6 days to receive. two screws to diddle on each front shock! Not a fan of orange water hose. Lookin' good!! Looks to be a Worthy competitor to the legendary KPX250! anxious to get them side by side.

[mark hall]

Can't resist a few more relative to KPX
Paladin:
2 way adjustable forks
Very LONG rear Aluminum swing arm! KPX is steel/magnetic.
Aluminum Kick stand.. will need shortening for SuMo mod.
Hubs are beautiful.. very sturdy big spokes
Assembly more complicated than KPX. Packaging in the crate was wierd. More connectors to match and route at the handle bars.
Big Chain like KPX
Handlebars are lighter gauge than KPX, but so what?
Dash not as nice, switch gear is similar quality.
No Luggage rack
Orange water hoses clash w/red frame.
KPX wiring/hoses/Gas tank is better integrated, less visible.
Lever Suspension is very nice, Ball Bearings, Aluminum. KPX is Cast Steel

More to follow.. With all the aluminum in the Paladin Looking like easily 30/40 Lbs lighter than KPX?? Wow.. supermoto perfection!
Stoked so far!

[mark hall]

1. Huge Rear Sprocket compared to KPX. Must be geared different. Likely needs smaller sprocket for SMoto, we'll see.
2. Paladin Seat looks flimsy.. Probably needs help or Replacement.
3. On the Paladin box it says two things:
a. Offroad use only
b.EPA, I hope I can register this, KPX no problem.
4. Paladin Tires are a Street Disaster.. and one size narrower than the KPX. KPX came with DOT kinda street tires which passed inspection in Maryland. Hated those tires and swapped to stock size street tires. Perfection.
Palidin has Huge Knobbs, Not sure they are Legal here in MD. I'll install the original KPX tires (which passed MD Inspection) before attempting to tag.
5. I should get the Title paperwork and see what it says. Early next week should happen. No One, I've heard has registered one yet?
More to follow

[Thumper]

1. Huge Rear Sprocket compared to KPX. Must be geared different. Likely needs smaller sprocket for SMoto, we'll see.
2. Paladin Seat looks flimsy.. Probably needs help or Replacement.
3. On the Paladin box it says two things:
a. Offroad use only
b.EPA, I hope I can register this, KPX no problem.
4. Paladin Tires are a Street Disaster.. and one size narrower than the KPX. KPX came with DOT kinda street tires which passed inspection in Maryland. Hated those tires and swapped to stock size street tires. Perfection.
Palidin has Huge Knobbs, Not sure they are Legal here in MD. I'll install the original KPX tires (which passed MD Inspection) before attempting to tag.
5. I should get the Title paperwork and see what it says. Early next week should happen. No One, I've heard has registered one yet?
More to follow

Well, it's a dirt bike
1. The engine revs higher than KPX (ZS 172-FMM). But you can drop a few teeth on the rear sprocket to go 80+mph at lower rpm if you want to. You will probably need to remove a few links. My chain is almost too long as is with the original sprocket.
2. The seat has a solid plastic frame, standard front retention on two bolts and a long bolt holds it down at the rear. And it has a decent cover. Not sure how it's flimsy
3. Yes, it is sold as off road use only, but most states will allow registration and plating. If you asked for MCO that says "motorcycle" in vehicle type field instead of off-road only, you can register it for road use in most states (I have registered and plated mine). PSM will send you an amended MCO if you need one.
4. This is an enduro motorcycle. But those knobbies are DOT approved tires and the wheels too. You will need to get some roadworthy tires.
5. The bike has all necessary requirements for registration and plating, but isn't listed on the approved list. The bike has front and rear brake light switches, mirrors, a horn, a battery, turn signals, headlights, etc, so technically it can pass an inspection. I can't tell you about Maryland, but there is a thread on this here on this forum (General, Registration Issues). Check there.

I need proof of liability insurance, the MCO and bill of sale, property sales tax receipts (two years). I have registered and plated a Bashan Storm, three Templars, a KTM 250SX, and my new Paladin. That thread on registration might have some information on Maryland.

[mark hall]

Palladin front fork drop. Looks like dropping the front forks 1" is easy, more should be possible if you can smooth out (Sand flat?) the rolled up tube ridges. I think the tube was rolled to increase diameter like .01" to prevent more drop. Looks possible. KPX did a freebie 2" front fork drop, but no more possible.
Palladin Both front and rear axels attach with a clamped hollow axel tube. You can install bolt thru the center sliders! Similar to my Yamaha XSR9.. I say Pallidin higher Axel attach quality than KPX.
More to follow..

[mark hall]

Nice! Glad to get a convo going thumper. I think a lot of people want the actual differences between KPX an Pallidin.. I know I did. This Pallidin is ahead of KPX performance potential, Quality wise similar, but KPX significantly easier to assemble.

No issue with tagging the KPX. and both KPX and now Pallidin are available thru Amazon! If I paid another $300 for amazon ship, maybe I could of returned to amazon if it didn't tag?
Yes.. same deal here in Maryland regarding tax tag, and title. Good news is Maryland doesn't sniff motorcycles. Optimistic, haven't looked at paperwork yet. From KPX registration, I know they have to find the ECU Emissions cert data in their inspection book, an DOT tires, w/lights, signals, horn. And they said they rode it. ECU data is the Biggie here. I couldn't deal with even the tame KPX dual street tires.. so sloppy in a corner.. these palladin tires would be dangerous for me on the street.

[Thumper]

I can't find Paladin available through Amazon. But on the PSM website for this model, there is a disclaimer stating that you might not be able to register/plate for on road use (link below). If Amazon does sell this bike, there won't be a guarantee from Amazon either. I don't know what conditions Amazon would consider legitimate for return/refund, but that won't be one of them. The emissions approved list is usually adhered to in Mass, NJ, Kansas, and perhaps other states. These bikes even have a catalyst, probably comply with emissions standards, but they have not completed the testing/approval process.

https://www.powersportsmax.com/product_info.php/cPath/33_819/products_id/26793

[Thumper]

I think it will make a great super motard. You've got some work to do!

People make cars, custom motorcycles and register/plate them. Somehow, they must get them inspected or something. It seems like that should apply to any vehicle.

[mark hall]

Thumper: Here is Paladin on Amazon.. couldn't find it on the Amazon site.. but tada:

https://www.amazon.com/X-PRO-Paladin-6-Speed-Transmission-Electric/dp/B0DJV3T991

I like the almost disposable nature of these bikes. I'd never do any cutting/slicing on my XSR9. Dropped the KPX several times.. Might be fun to practice sliding out/dumping the bike. More power makes it simple to try. That's confidence if you can dump the bike and plan your slide route. Mirrors, Levers and Scratches are the result. Road rash is a good story to tell, maybe an ambulance ride. It's the hitting stuff that hurts.

[mark hall]

Sheesh.. Paladin Purchase link Above.. Amazon states: Currently Unavailable!!
It was available a week ago when I considered ordering it thru Amazon.
hmmm..

[Thumper]

PSM still shows available on their own website. This is unusual. Amazon and vendors sync up most of the time since Amazon is only selling for the vendor (keeps no stock). Maybe PSM is almost out of them. I would not be surprised.

[LightSmith88]

I just finally found this thread despite having owned and worked on a paladin since January. It is amazing how quickly these things get buried. There is a bunch of great info on this thread for paladin owners. It really fills in a bunch of gaps left by the resource thread and the mods thread! I'm really only posting on this one too keep it alive. I think any prospective paladin owner should check this one out as well. Great job guys! :thanks:

[Juice Morrison]

Paladin Problems
So I am in need of some advice. I received my Paladin a month ago and have yet to get it started. Assembly was going much quicker than my Templar X until I went to drain the shipping oil for some real oil. the drain plug on the side behind the shifter lever was way to close th the frame on 2 axis. There was no possible way to get a socket, open end or box end wrench. PSM was no help telling me to just put a socket on it and offering me $40. Ended up having to use a Dremel bit to shave 3mm of frame under the drain plug bolt, no biggie. Ok lets get thing fired up, right? No. Cranked and cranked and nothing. I could smell gas from the tail pipe but nothing. The engine light come on when I turned the key so I went to check the code...#1 fuel injector. zi couldn't find any info how to proceed and because I could smell gas I decided to check for spark. Removed the tank and tried to pull the plug boot. The frame is in the way again, no way to pull it out. Im thinking that during assembly the neglected to thread the spark plug and just shoved the boot on and now im fu*ked. any thoughts or recommendations?

[sburk]

Don't know if you have seek any of my issues on the resource or random thread but I also could not get the boot off I had to completely unbolt the engine. You might be able to Un bolt the lower and front mount an tip the motor forward to gain some room to pull the boot

[Mumen Rider]

Whoa guys, you don't have to do all of that to get the spark plug boot off.


https://www.chinariders.net/showpost.php?p=413277&postcount=4

[Juice Morrison]

I did end up getting the pulg out yesterday. It took an extra pair hands to get it done. 16mm plug socket two extensions to get at the plug. then I had to pull the extension till it hit the frame while then my son pulled the first extension off and I held the one atached to the socket. It took several tries. Good news is now I know I have spark. Time to mess with the fuel pump/injectors. Joy

[Juice Morrison]

Yep thanks to someones post I learned the boot must come out via the left side of the bike.