Templar M keeps draining battery

[NYCDiesel]

Hey guys, my templar's battery died last week so I ordered another. I installed the new battery, bike started, ran great but than as soon as I killed the engine the battery was completely dead again, really annoying. I'm guessing its the rectifier, but when I attempt to kickstart it the dash lights up for a second which makes me think the rectifier is OK. Would really appreciate any help, thanks

[Thumper]

Got a voltmeter?
I would start with testing the charging system. Here is a post on this
https://www.chinariders.net/showthread.php?t=34080

[Mumen Rider]

Hey guys, my templar's battery died last week so I ordered another. I installed the new battery, bike started, ran great but than as soon as I killed the engine the battery was completely dead again, really annoying. I'm guessing its the rectifier, but when I attempt to kickstart it the dash lights up for a second which makes me think the rectifier is OK. Would really appreciate any help, thanks


You should check what your charging voltage is at the battery.

[J4Fun]

How long did you run the bike on the new battery? Is the battery a wet cell and is it properly filled with electrolyte and charged before starting? Once it is started the voltage check at the battery will no doubt tell you you have a charging problem or not, look for around 13.5+ v while running and check with some throttle too to make sure. My thoughts…

[Aussie_in_MO]

Definitely worth throwing a charger on any new battery and making sure it's fully charged before putting cycles on it

[NYCDiesel]

Yeah I made sure the new battery was properly charged, I do have a voltmeter and have seen that thread just hard to check it wo the bike running. The OEM battery was so depleted that it wouldn't take a charge, if i remember correctly it was somewhere around 3-4 volts. I'll try to recharge the replacement and get back to you, thanks for all the help.

[Thumper]

Your first post above stated that the bike runs. Yes, those tests need to be run on a bike that starts so you can check voltage at the battery running ~1800 rpm. Compare that to resting (not running), first disconnected and then connected to test for a short.

[NYCDiesel]

Your first post above stated that the bike runs. Yes, those tests need to be run on a bike that starts so you can check voltage at the battery running ~1800 rpm. Compare that to resting (not running), first disconnected and then connected to test for a short.

The first time this happened it blew the fuse not sure if that is pertinent or not. Thanks for the info, much appreciated.

[Thumper]

If the fuse blew, there is a ground fault. You need to check the wiring for a ground fault.

[buzz]

What Thumper said is right,problem is a short or ground problem. Good luck.

[NYCDiesel]

So i measured the new battery, it is at exactly 0V, i tried recharging with no luck...I will look for a short in the loom, thanks for the info.

[Thumper]

Don't connect any battery to that wiring harness until you find the ground!! Disconnect the battery that you got! You can charge it on the bench and see if it isn't damaged, and will hold a charge.

To find the ground fault, connect one wire from the voltmeter to the positive lead (at the battery connector), and the other lead to the engine/frame. The reading should stay infinite before you connect and after you touch ground. If there is any continuity, you have a ground fault. You may have to dissect the harness, starting with disconnecting powered items like the lighting, horn, etc. This includes the CDI unit. At some point, the positive lead at the battery will no longer show the ground fault when you disconnect something. Something that gets power is somehow getting to ground. It may be a crossed or misconnected wire rather than a component, but somewhere it's getting to ground. Good luck tracing it down.

[NYCDiesel]

Dude, Thumper, you are a damn genius. The CDI is the part you plug in to the bottom of the headlight assembly? I couldn't find that little black thing w the prongs(assuming CDI?) when I was assembling it, found it later but never installed it. Something about reading CDI just clued me in even if that isn't the right term, if it isn't that then I will go through the loom. You are the man, much thanks.

[Thumper]

The CDI is under the seat, on the right side. The only component I can think of besides the horn behind the headlight is the turn signal flasher.

The voltage regulator is on the frame behind the headset on the Templar X

[NYCDiesel]

So what is exactly is that little black box with the prongs you install under the speedometer/tachometer/headlight assembly? It's not possible for that to be the cause of the draining battery? I put the newer battery on charge, I hope it takes a charge, never seen a battery say 0V before. Thanks for the info man.

[Thumper]

So what is exactly is that little black box with the prongs you install under the speedometer/tachometer/headlight assembly? ...
...


Two wire connector? About a 1" by 1" square device? L-shaped white plastic connector?
This is probably the turn signal flasher. It might indicate "LED" on the cover, which means it is expecting low current turn signals (LED).

The flasher gets power from the battery, then goes from the flasher to the switch on the left control set which powers the left or the right turn signals. Selecting left (or right) turn signal completes the circuit and the flasher provides switched (intermittent) power to the front and rear left (or right) turn signals.

If you disconnect it, and the turn signals don't work. This will confirm that it is the turn signal flasher.

[NYCDiesel]

TBH with you I couldn't find it when I was assembling the bike but did find it after but forgot about it..... Exactly as you described but the box I had was black with two metal prongs but what you said makes sense bc my blinkers and headlight never worked properly.

I left the second replacement battery overnight on charger, it went from zero volts to exactly zero volts haha. I my charger was working tho bc with the voltmeter attached it was registering 14v. I just ordered a replacement battery.

I was really, really hoping that was the issue. Since that doesn't seem to be the case I will inspect the loom much more thoroughly. BTW would you happen to know the size of the replacement fuses that run through the positive battery wire?

When this first started happening, my gut feeling was that some system inside the bike was still drawing voltage even with the key out. After I put the replacement battery in the bike ran good, was doing great than literally like a mile out from my house it completely died again. I was luckily close to a hill and dropped the clutch and it started back up, by the time I got home and tried starting it again the battery was completely dead, wouldn't even light up the speedomter or any thing else for that matter.... I just ordered a new battery and will hope for better luck.

Here's a picture of my bikes, the green zx6r is my buddies, the turbo hayabusa I'm currently working on after I cracked the oil return line and the grey s1000rr is my baby had 40k miles on it before I blew the transmission hence why the white one is there bc I'm going to swap in the motor from that one. The red Panigale V4 is no longer with me because some jackass in NJ rearended/sideswiped on the highway going over 90mph exactly one month ago now. We're in litigation now. Thumper I appreciate all the help man, seriously if your ever around PA/NYC lunch and drinks are on me.

https://imageshack.com/i/po6ol4B4j