New SSR xf250 prep

[BkrMike]

Hi everyone. I will be picking up a leftover 2023 250 and I wanted to know what should be done to increase the chances of it being a reliable bike for off road use. I will be using it on easy sandy trails, and my age of nearly 70, the speeds won't be that high. Is there an engine oil for break in that is recommended? After break in, what oils seem to work best in this engine? I have the opportunity to buy this in the crate so I will be building it myself. Having said that, I will have the chance to lube all the bearings, oil the air filter (if it is a foam type), check the carb settings and adjust the needle, etc... One area of concern is the rear shock. Is it prone to failure, and if so, what are the options for repair or replacement?

Any advice will be appreciated. I have done most of my own maintenance on my bikes since 1970, so I should ba capable of doing anything on this simple machine. I have read that if they are properly maintained, they can be pretty reliable. Please feel free to offer tips for upgrades too. Thanks in advance, Mike.

[buzz]

Nice please let me know how you like this bike,I'm needing a new one. Thanks

[BkrMike]

I just got it yesterday, but if you are seriously considering one like I was, the dealer has two 2023 models left. One in a crate for $1,700, and one built for $2,000. Check Marley Motorsports LLC, in Birdsboro, PA, and ask for Scott. From my research, if the bike is properly set up before operating, it, and properly maintained, it should prove to be very reliable. For the price, I just had to take the chance. Scott has a website and an advertisement on FB.

[BkrMike]

I have only put about 20 KM on my SSR 250 so far and have found that if the kickstand safety switch is removed, and the quick disconnect wires are left disconnected (open), the bike will start and run normally. Do not plug those wires together-the bike will not start with the wires connected.
Also, the red run (or kill switch) on the RH handlebar failed and the bike would not start (no spark) in either the run or stop position. I disassembled the throttle assembly which houses the switch, cut both wires to the switch, left them disconnected (open), and the bike started right up.
I am providing this information in an effort to save any other owners time related to either of those two issues.

[beerftw]

I go by the chineseum standards I have heard since the first crated 2 wheeled device I bought. For starters get rid of shipping oil and put decent non synthetic oil in it, do not put synthetic in it until it is broken in. The first oil change usually around 100 miles, will have lots of metal shavings which is normal during break in, then change again at anywhere between 300 and 1k miles or just go by the book, change sooner if you feel uneasy.

Check every bolt and every adjustment, drive chains are usually super tight because they have a large amount of initial stretch and the engineers accounted for that, but expect to re adjust the chain if tight around 80 miles. Valve lash again wears quick on initial breakin, and sometimes they are not set correct from the factory. Expect to check valve lash, then after a few hundred miles set it again, then from there by the book schedule.

On bolts do not trust bolts were tightened proper, always recheck the bolts as loose bolts can be dangerous. On wiring check crimps to make sure they are proper, use dielectric grease on anything you think might need to be undone and hot glue on anything you think might rattle loose or be constantly exposed to water. Turn signal splices and tail light splices are often where I use the hot glue gun as they are most prone to vibration and water, but do use the soft hot glue incase you need to ever undo anything.

Follow through with break in and maintenance and nearly any chinese crate bike will last you, chinese engineers are not stupid, but initial setup and break in plays a key role in their survivability.

[LightSmith88]

Here here! I have two Chinese bikes and I agree with everything said in the above post!

[BkrMike]

Thanks for the advice. I did dump the oil that was in the engine and filled with Maxima break in oil. I also checked the fasteners and they were all tight. The valves were tight and I had to loosen both up to spec. I will have to check the wiring harness connections more closely and prepare in accordance with your advice. When I do the first oil change, I plan to drop the screen. I assume that is where you found metal shavings from engine break in. Once again, thanks for the help. I think this is going to be a fun little bike, and I really like the simplicity of its design, which will make maintenance so easy.

[dh]

Congrats on the new bike. You got a great deal. I was one of the first to buy one brand new in 2014 and I still own it. Mine has about 30,000 miles on it and it's been a very reliable bike. This bike is overall one of the best quality Chinese models that I've seen in person. Since you asked for advice on setup, I will share my experience. I purchased mine assembled from a dealer. Some issues I noticed early on were the poor quality chain, and wheel spokes were not tight. I ended up breaking several before I figured that out. The EGR valve failed, causing the bike to run a little bit lean. I removed that and capped it with a EGR blocking plate. There is a white Teflon chain guard mounted to the rear swing arm which came loose and fell off early on, finding a replacement for that was difficult, otherwise all parts have been easy to find through local dealers and taobao. Engine parts have been interchangeable with Suzuki TU250x parts. Carburetor parts are I believe interchangeable with early 2000s Yamaha tw200. I can't remember what the interval is for valve adjustments are in the book, but I do them about every 5,000 miles, adjustments have been very minimal if any. Search YouTube for Suzuki tu 250X service videos for help on valve adjustments and maintenance. I have always run Rotella 15-40 conventional. The only major issue I've had with the bike was a result of my own doing; while tinkering with the bike during the first valve adjustment I unknowingly reset the cam chain tensioner and threw my timing chain :doh: No major damage to the engine, but SSR replaced the engine anyways.

Haynes has produced a service manual specific to this model. There is also a jet kit produced for this model sold on amazon.

[david3921]

Congrats on the new bike. You got a great deal. I was one of the first to buy one brand new in 2014 and I still own it. Mine has about 30,000 miles on it and it's been a very reliable bike. This bike is overall one of the best quality Chinese models that I've seen in person. Since you asked for advice on setup, I will share my experience. I purchased mine assembled from a dealer. Some issues I noticed early on were the poor quality chain, and wheel spokes were not tight. I ended up breaking several before I figured that out. The EGR valve failed, causing the bike to run a little bit lean. I removed that and capped it with a EGR blocking plate. There is a white Teflon chain guard mounted to the rear swing arm which came loose and fell off early on, finding a replacement for that was difficult, otherwise all parts have been easy to find through local dealers and taobao. Engine parts have been interchangeable with Suzuki TU250x parts. Carburetor parts are I believe interchangeable with early 2000s Yamaha tw200. I can't remember what the interval is for valve adjustments are in the book, but I do them about every 5,000 miles, adjustments have been very minimal if any. Search YouTube for Suzuki tu 250X service videos for help on valve adjustments and maintenance. I have always run Rotella 15-40 conventional. The only major issue I've had with the bike was a result of my own doing; while tinkering with the bike during the first valve adjustment I unknowingly reset the cam chain tensioner and threw my timing chain :doh: No major damage to the engine, but SSR replaced the engine anyways.

Haynes has produced a service manual specific to this model. There is also a jet kit produced for this model sold on amazon.

I'm pretty sure that the current models do not have Suzuki based engines. I know older ones were but don't know when the change was made. It could be that they are using a different right side cover. I think comparing both left sides will determine if they are Suzuki based.

[david3921]

Below are the two engines these came with.

[dh]

I'm pretty sure that the current models do not have Suzuki based engines. I know older ones were but don't know when the change was made. It could be that they are using a different right side cover. I think comparing both left sides will determine if they are Suzuki based.

This model has been around a long time with few changes. The current model uses the same Suzuki GN 250 design as my 2014. The other motor you discovered is a 200cc Suzuki design that was used for a brief period in the mid 2000's when this bike was originally introduced by the now defunct Qlink brand. I owned one of those, and it was a good quality motorcycle. There was also a GN125 version that was popular, but not offered in the US. These bikes are made by Qingqi, which for years has claimed to be a Suzuki OEM manufacturer. They also produce Benelli and QJ Motors, which are also distributed by SSR in the US.

[buzz]

30,000 miles?

[dh]

30,000 miles?

Yes. For many years I commuted to Los Angeles for work and school, about 90 miles one way. I tried to ride the SSR at least once a week. I also used the SSR to do food deliveries in Los Angeles which was fun. Now it's transitioning to become the trail bike I originally bought it to be.