battery

[capone]

ok so you remember my other fourm i dont think its my batter thats bad cause i added water 2 the battery but the starter just clicks and vibrateds when i hit the electric start but when i try 2 start it on the charger it kind of trys to start whats wrong

[winwun]

Sure sounds like a bad battery . . .

How old is your present battery ?

How long had it been since you checked it when you had to add water ?

Would it be possible to easily disconnect the hot lead from the battery and try another battery by using jumpers ?

Even a car battery would do to check it out.

[BillR]

All I can add is "ditto".
My enduro did the same thing as the battery was dying.

Try another battery. I've boosted mine off with a car battery also (car is not running).

I found one that will fit a GY-5 enduro here for $56 shipped.

http://www.batteriesplus.com/

You may be able to find one at Wal-Mart, depending on what size your scoot uses.

Good luck,
Bill

[Mobus]

Wal Mart has a nice AGM (Absorbent Glass Mat) powersport battery for around $30 with exchange. I put them into both my ATV's. The stock battery that came with my new ATV started it the first few times and then wouldn't take a charge. Never had a problem with the AGM batteries, haven't even needed to trickle charge them with 2 week spans of non-use, they crank right up. I would try jump starting it off a known good battery. A charger won't cut it as far as trying to start the engine with a dead battery, the cranking amps just aren't there.

[IronFist]

You might be able to make use of a digi volt meter, $12. Fully charged then left to sit for 24 hours, your battery should sit right near 12.64 volts. If your battery can do this, you don't need to spend $$$$ on another battery.

[Mobus]

You might be able to make use of a digi volt meter, $12. Fully charged then left to sit for 24 hours, your battery should sit right near 12.64 volts. If your battery can do this, you don't need to spend $$$$ on another battery.

It's not necessarily all about the volts, it's the amps that matter in this case. I've seen batteries that show 12+V but won't crank anything. Right voltage with low amps is why you get solenoid chatter and no start. Same problem manifests itself in cars. It's an indication of a bad battery. Basically if he can jump start it from a car battery that will be his cue for a new battery, let alone that the battery hasn't taken a charge with a charger.

He's saying that without the charger connected all he gets is solenoid chatter. With the charger connected he gets slow crank, that's because the charger isn't a battery and can't supply the cranking amps on it's own, but there's just enough with the two to slow crank. Pretty much rules out the solenoid. The batteries that they ship with these things leave a bit to be desired in the quality area, mine lasted a week before it wouldn't crank even after charging.

[IronFist]

I understand mobus, but doesn't a car battery have way more amps than a bike battery? I've heard of bad things happening to bikes jumped from a car. Has he checked stator plug for corrosion? The neg wire? Di-electric greased all connections. All I know is what I have done. I bought an expensive battery only to find out that, my battery wasn't the problem. The regulator/rectifier was bad.

That's not to say his battery isn't the problem. I've never seen a battery (after 12 hours charging at 1.5amps.) still show 12.65v after 24 hours and have a cold cranking problem
I've seen a battery drop to 12.01v in 24 hours and chucked it.

Regardless a muli-meter is a good diagnostic tool to have in ones magic bag of tricks, especially for the price. JMHO.

[DDG1976]

I understand mobus, but doesn't a car battery have way more amps than a bike battery? I've heard of bad things happening to bikes jumped from a car.

As long as the car isn't running your ok.

[IronFist]

I did not know that. The only time I did it the car was running. I didn't want to muck up the new car's battery. :?

[Mobus]

It's basic ohm's law. 12 volts is 12 volts, the resistance of your device will only pull the amount of amps it needs and no more, as long as it is 12 volts you're OK. Your car battery could supply 120 amps at 12v but your powersport will only draw the 8-10 amps it needs to move the load of the starter and not any more just because it's there. It does mean however that with 120 amps of cranking power you could theortically crank the starter 10 times longer than the small 12 amp battery would (provided the starter motor wasn't on fire by then) :) .

My Dad and I used to jumpstart the lawn tractor like this. Really the only difference with the car running or not is with it running you'll get 13.8v at the battery vs. the resting voltage of around 12.8v.

[Cal25]

Iron Fist, They have a tester that is often refered to as a "Toaster". it is basicly a meter and a resitance load likw a heating element. You hook it up and see if the needle goes to the green area which is good. Then you push and hold a momentary switch for about 10 seconds. If the nedle drops quickly to the red area , the battery is bad.

You need the volts and the amps for a battery to be good. A voltage check is however a quick and simple basic check.

[katoranger]

I have one of those. Got it from a garage sale. It is called a load tester. Puts a load (resistance) on the battery to see if it good.

Allen

[IronFist]

It's on the "Igottagetme" list. :wink:

[katoranger]

Mine is similar to this one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90636

[Mobus]

Mine is similar to this one.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=90636

Hmmm, didn't realize harbor freight had those. At $14.99 I think I may pick one up.

[IronFist]

:wink: Thanks for the find.

Kato, find me a NOS K4 ruby red gas tank. If anyone can do it, it's you. Knowing you, you'd find 2, and 1 would be 50% off :lol: :lol: :lol: